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MDE-YOURNC HAT AND SOME OTHERS j Now come tho fall and winter seasons, and with them worry for I milady for she must determine Just I'j - what 'her supply of headgear shall 'l Nosos must be hidden by the hats. This Is the late edict from Tarls. according to Mile. Louise la Tron tlne. millinery expert for the South ! west Empire Magazine. Mile. I Tronllne. through her connection f ' with the most fashionable of Pa risian modistes and milliners, la in a position to know the styles even I before they are exhibited along the Parisian boulevards and at the race tracks. With the hiding of the nose comes a rakish tilt to the hat. With the tilt the piquant expression of the belles of the winter of 1912-18 will be greatly enhanced. BUck Is the color for the season. A white trimming may he worn, but the woman who wants to bo dressed In the f iyliiMi '.Mr- mode w ill nviko the foundation of her head cover ing of Mack. Simplicity Is another note which will be emphasized this year. In place of gardens of fruit and flowers, gaudy feathers and huge masses of ribbons there will he a few chaste bows. For evening wear, of course, aigrettes will bo do rigour, even more than In former years Of course, with the terrible extermina tion of the white heron In the Flor ida marshes by hunters for milli nery houses, real aigrettes are worth far more than their weight In gold, but tho factories have at last suc ceeded in turning out substitutes that can not be told from the real heron plume except by the expert. Tho aigrettes are being worn very high, and must be corked Jauntily over one ear to obtain tho desired effect of fashion. At the opening of the opera season In Paris tho entire floor of the house was a sea of nod ding white plumes Another innovation Is the intro duction of the mantilla for church wear. It will be remembered that about three years ago a movement Was made to introduce this style, but failed for some unknown reason. However, throughout fashionable Europe church-going women insist on the mantilla for Sunday wear, and the fashion i? rapidly gaining a foothold In the East. The reasons for this are many. In tho llrst place the mantilla gives a Be touch of simple dignity which can- 5 not be found in tho ordinary hat. It 19 really is beautiful, and If worn right - w& ly can be given a wonderfully strlk- w ing effect. Also It ta very light on 8S the head, and relieves the wearer of HBi much fatigue hitherto tho lncvlta- B9 bio penally of sitting through a long H church service wearing a heavy hat, H Black, the Thin? 9 iu Mantillas. HH Black is the fashionable color for IK mantilla Vint mnv voun m wrm wear white. The colors arc never mixed, but a shade to mutch the hair may be worn if the (town cor responds. Borne of tho laco man tillas on exhibition in the exclusive millinery shops in tho East instinct ively make one think of Spain and Its senorltaa. Tho custom of wcarlncr mantillas to chuch has long been common ia the countries of Southern and East ern Europe, where most of tho pres ent styles aro originating, and tho women there hao the B iencc of wearing them reduced to a fino art. It's origin was In tho day of St. Paul, when he commanded that women should never apepar In church with their heads uncovered. In those days tho nearest thin;; to a head covering was the mantilla, used when the weather was Inclement, and naturally the women turned to this. In clear weather tho women always wore a fillet around their t mples, and allowed their hair to hang free about their shoulders. Tho use of a scarf in this country for evening wear, when a woman de sires to keep her coiffure in the con dition her hairdresser fixed it, had its Inception In the rmntllla. All hat are belnir made In mu h lighter weights than formerly, how ever, and tho rival milliners are vlelng with one another to see who can eliminate the most ounces. It reminds the observer of a competi tion helil among English cavalry officers a few years ago for the pur pose of cutting down the weight of equipment for horse and man Some remarkably good results were obtained, both in point of comfort and service, and Tommy Atkin-i breathed heartfelt sighs of relief when he cast aside the ponderous catalry outfit which had been a tra dition of the army slnco tho Cri mean War and donned the new one, lighter by many pounds. In the contest for lightness ma llne has been tho pet material of the milliners, but for the winter and fall lightweight felt and velvet, on light canvas frames, are much ap proved. With a little skill any wom an may make theso ha Is at home, for the old system of wiring the frames to make them stiff 1 dlnK out. Limber, pliable hats which can be made to fit almost anyone are the syle. One famous actress recently lad a hat made for her which weighed but an ounce and a half, virtually a record. It was not long after ward when other milliners., copying tho design, put similar hats on the market, and at much reduced prices. The first hat, of tho elm pleat material imaginable, coat tho actress J200. The models aro sell ing as low as $10. Tilted Pore White Hat Is Striking. A striking hat Is one of pure white flf nul'A1 Hnvn mm h WSSli , mm: mm and no?e and tilting sharply upword behind. At the right side is a curved mount of black plumes, Which curl downward to the throat. The hats for this season arc not new In their fundamental princi ples. It seems aw though the mllll . ners have exhausted 11 their ideas, and are devoting their ener gies now to merely changing the trimming. Tho majority of the hats will have low crowns, and a roll in the brim like that of a man's darby. Which nhows their hair. Now for white hats fell la the fa vorcd material, and for black, vel vet. The black hat of last spring anil summer, which sprang up llko a mushroom despite th" desperato attempts of the milliners to rid themselves of their surplus stoi k of hats with tho weird, variegated Balkan colors, bids fair o continue right through fall and winter with no decrease In popularity. The laut that the velvet Is little use for wear does not seem to both er, fashion's devotees In the slight est, its tendency toward spotting, and Its well-known propensities for cati lung the cfust have no effect up on the sale. The women lnsi.it that it shall be worn and it is. Plush, the shaggiest sort of plush, has largely replaced felt, particu larly In the colors. The clumsy out lines into whb-h plush falls of Its own accord, unless cut to the satin finish, and which always looks more or less bulky, gives tho hats a de cidedly home-made appearance, of which their wearers seem to be really proud. There la a decided reaction In the hats of this season from the mln llnery of the early spring, while the Balkan colors were yet raging be fore tho simple editors drove thorn from the heads of tho women.' Every design shown this season la modest, and In fact, too modest to harmonize with the extreme In Brapery and the slit skirts that go tearing through the streets to the wild delight of all men In sight. Hats will have no dellnltc out line. The lumpier and clumsier they appear the better. Crowns must be soft. The "Tango Tain" is one of tho latest styles, which had Its Inception In the moving picture productions of medieval scenes. It Is virtually the same as the bonnet worn by tho men in tho days of Francesca da Kimlnl. a velvet headcovcrlng with xoft crown and small, still brim, with a feather hanging from one side. The "Tango Tarn"' For Floppy Hair. The 'TattKy. Tarn" Is designed for tho y ;ith floppy hair. . Tho . riarem Turban Will Create S Furore in Winter Headgear j Fashions, Milliners Predict Fur in Favor for Certain Tvoes of Beauty. j brim is Straigh't rind the trimmln? I a band of flat feather across the rront and a pair of small, pointed wlngn on often Bide over the ears. The hat must lit the h-ad closely and the crown rise to a medium height. The ostrich plume has come back! It is widely worn everywhere. Black Is the usual color, but taupe and some of the deep, mild greens are great favorites. A complete outfit of automobile headgear Is absolutely necessary for the woman of today As everyone knows, It Is Impossible to wear tho ordinary hat while motoring. A silk cap or bonnet mado of a straight strip of goods about a yard long is among the newest Inventions. One end is gathered In close, under a big button the wire of a half dollar. Tho other is slit up about half the length, the edges tluiM made are hemmed. While the two ends are hemmed, gathered Into an inch and a half of length and stayed, then fitted with a narrow strap of tho good?, to make a loop. When the cap is worn the big button Is directly over tho forehead, the two ends are crossed In the back and then hrought for ward to meet over tho big button. This -ives the effect of an Oriental turban. Getting back to ordinary wear once more, the bla'.k velvet panne in a new French shape has the odd Spike aigrette in a Vivid apricot hue. The tilted hat Is a craze In Paris just now. If the shapes are not tilted up abruptly at tho' side they must be lifted at the back The present st; le of hair dressing is so attractive that It seems a shame to change It, and the tilted hats will demand h thousand and one differ ent Btyles of rats, puffs, curls, etc., to till up at ant places. While the Mat hate, which are unl- allj now ainoii.ii.c, dccid- , ' eal bi oml -. Uv tilted i. ,is win ill ortlj certain personalities and facei. Another becoming winter hat made In soft felt and velvet, ol such , oioi ; .i- loline, t 'him blir . ic,-'t pure w liit.- ,i nd I 'l.i ' Is of -It i - l dl'd ei abruptly on the ' Ighl -I'le and iimb-i- I In brim I hi r. i : a linn ..r In. v. . black ' el el hi li holds the mount in place. I i lie xpenee of hat i ... ornlng j greater and greater year, with the Increasing demand for three orl (our h i'- - ex er v .-..in, even j anions women ol tj moderate men o i Someone Will stop High Hat Prii es. It is nut lone befe-p a r. vulMon j must come, It not on Hie part of the women who are bein worried into nervousn ' ' ukkIc to kcM ui with the 8t; lee, then on the parti of the unfortunate men who must' pay for them Tho hanges In fash-1 ion are being i irrlcd too far, and! the milliners are charging fancy prices for the r-amo old materials under new names. Many of the direct importations J from Paris are hats framed In thai ' i 1 1 If K- v ' 1 - - big millinery fa tories of the coun tr. modelled alter hats brought dH bj the bu "i still oiiu i - arc sineii bj the milliners themseiB and labi lied n ,i I'ai i-i.m. Anythlnl with V- in h or l-.n-h-li trade niuk appeals to many womCM when if thev examine, their pu losel thi prob.i bly v-ouldl dl COVd lllisidi the label of ."omsl vvheri tin ha t w as made bj a girl who .-a r l - I a V. eek. " Ribbon which . osts about 9 m 1 cent! a yard i I lie depart mentB Store liter i '1-1- pie of dolm i ,.h from lh milliner, who jiids Freni h name. fl UTILIZING THE STONE WALLS Not bine; n rural New England Is more adorable than the outburst of wild roses whtCh begins about tho middle of June ;irx in some places Lists until the end of Sep tember. The wild rose bushes ;ir frequently found clustering along tho old stone walks which were for merly In preat abundance and now arc moie and more rarely round di viding the hillside or seashore farms Into pasture lots or corn fields or orchards. If there was any one product which New Eng land generously and even lavishly offered Its musters when they llrst began to clear its wilderness. It was the materials for stone walls. They were Impartially distributed under and over the soil. The stones were of every size and shape; there were huge ones for the lower courses and graduated minor ones to pile on top. In many places they could be mado double thickness, with hollows to fill In with superfluities. That often failed to exhaust the supply. It la odd that they were not used more for building houses, evon as they found their place hi lining deep wells where hung specimens of the old oaken bucket. Of late years, especially along tho seashore, ar chitects having tajt thcu eyca on them and seen in them .-.rtistii- poj Blbilltii 9, tin farmei - savc beeM glad to i -atlier I.U-li. eertaiohj a : ' I ,. prlei . Ill stoM walls thai I hell u-- ' m thsl original owners of the land hfl r-iiteil t sin h - ol I.' :ii'- I'acKJ and sweaty foreheads. The diSH pcai ance in ba -a used M t on -bb- r. Me ,. in the piSfl tlire-qneii. ,,f in i I V b" alltleSS ,,l (,, in I, ,1m d the rlm rogi bUShe: and t lv ib !i' ate p3 pink blossoms looking like c.otl butterlln : yave a lembr. .o li'- slM ne, to t be I , hi o i red grsji o p .fi'-nthl pili d and kept piled f'r . niani . a i . lid r m no not statlj pb king v. ry we.:. tb y I k'k,l drop their petals or fade awal when put Into vases; but If notjH terfcrod a lib, iio k. ep up a -MV,,1 Ic i bb. oi.in. and oftCM one may s. y 'I humniinfl blr 1 poising over th ai l" r f motion!) apparently i: mi "J wings aie I in,- like a dynamOJ then , , ,. l or ti'jl June la partij ularly the season oh diought b .s yellowed n. Id . Ho 1om.Hi d sight that com bo see,, at th- seashore Is a cl" "1 tor of the dainty Mnglc-petaiec j . :, against a ba, kgro md cj lush srasa bounded by the vioifl , blue of the suuuy ocean.