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4 - THE OGDEN STANDARD, OGDEN. UTAH,"
sjj jfedan2 Sirucox 'Rvie35 JLf I UNE ls th? breath I " sr,ot between : j "45k the seasons. The j TNy general dlspcr- ji W 8in of the fash- ! '"lS ionable H orld has 1 rc iTf c onQmenccd; w if some of the large i Tv o- V houses are closed j and their owners ( H settled in tbeir H cottages In the S I summer colonies f jl or lodged at ho- f tels like trarel- 1 cts in a foreign I f ( land, fifth are I I J nue is no longer I i UVBsSfer one crush of au- jM'MSB tnini'iir-s car- i ji rlages and pedes- I j f trlnns, aud one ls at last able to I cross at the busy renters without risk- j ;i ing one s life But even though the ' .J general exodus is depleting the social ranks, and although fashions are set fled for the moment and dress is not 5 the all absorbing topic for the fem- t inine element, the streets are still thronged t 1th well gowned women who are making plans for a vacation, 1 choosing suitable apparel for week- end visits and prettj frocks to wear at I the summer club dances. Party frocks for the club dances are of the most diaphanous description. 1 They are of lace, tulle, moussellne de I sole or figured gauze, with a trimming 1 of delicately tinted flowers posed on 1 taffeta. Blue In every shade ls the I prevalent tint, also various tones of w $ yellow, orchid shades of mauve and I pink, bright rose and geranium, beau j 1 tiful changeant tissues In opal or moon- i light tints. Swinging chains and I B strings of beads are still lavishly used, i 1 1 in; but not in conjunction with flower gar- II lands. The two do not harmonize. A rici blue trouser skirt Is very I charming with flounces of silver lace 1 and a corsage of self tone tulle caught sf 1 at the waist with a cluster of malmai- re I sons and green leaves. One of the pret- it ipl tiest color combinations is j 'raise de bois ') (Wild Strawberry i and blue. Lovely I effects are obtained by combining va le rlouB tones of reds with blue An ex- I quisite gown for a young girl to wear imperl ( for dancing on the week-end visit is in pjif I strawberry colored silk voile with a Ml wide girdle of Corot blue faille and a AA little sleeveless corsage of flesh pink IjjljJ I and cream colored tulle. Petunia red B is ravishing with a sash of tapestry AU I blue charmeuse. All the shades of cur- l I rant red, magenta, Japonica, harmonize LW I exquisitely with Wedgewood blue. Chl- ne6e blue, Wynn blue and the various I 0 I 6moke gray tones. Red and blue blend I fQj I ed on frocks composed of chiffon and S tulle in neutral tones is unique, and M the result of this color combination Is agP highly artistic. An exquisite little id f I evening gown of white charmeuse has flounces of black diamante and jet net. The gems gleam out like tiny scattered dewdrops. A beautiful ornament of jet and diamante ls used on the waist and a most original sash of two tissues of tulle, tango and blue, posed, one over the other, and tied high at the back. There is quite a revival of jet orna mentations such as our grandmothers wore when they were belles. The jet dog-collar has been worn for quite some time, but the odd jet bracelets are novel and very picturesque. A de lightful result is obtained by chains of Jet beads as a trimming for a white gown. Jet is wonderfully becoming, lending the much desired whiteness to the neck or arms, as the case may be, and supplying the touch of black which now seems essential on a pure white guv, n. Very modish is the evening bodice, which boasts long ruched sleeves of transparent stuff. These are also charming on an afternoon gown of taf feta or charmeuse. If the gown Ls in black and the sleeves white the effect is very smart. It Is more than a de cade ago that Sarah Bernhardt the divine Sarah made this style of sleeve fashionable. Somehow we always as sociate the long draped sleeve, with its ruffle falling well over the hand, and the extremely high shaped collar with this noted actress. When the sleeve ls ruched it has more than one admirable quality. It makes a thin arm look plump, and, with the pleated frill falling well on to the knuckles, an I unsightly hand can be made to look quite attractive. When the very warm weather ls upon us most of our frocks and blouses will hare elbow sleeves, hut at the present all gowns of a dis tinctly day character and, as I have al ready mentioned, certain evening mod els have the full length sleeve The modified leg-o'-mutton sleeve is cut long enough to wrinkle slightly on the forearm, but fits very snugly at the wrist. Sometimes the sleeve is opened so that the hand may pass through, and snap buttons close the opening. Sometimes the sleeve opening is large enough to admit the hand and is then pleated under and fastened back with a snap button after the sleeve ls on. This style may eventually lead to the old bell sleeve of our grandmothers. The latter threatens to make its re- aiii'aiiiui.e in mu itjuiius ui ujuueni dress. A marked suggestion of it Is shown in many of the smartest gowns. A curious new sleeve on a semi-tailored costume Is a combination of satin, serge and net. This novel sleeve In reality is three sleeves, which do the duty of one. Black satin forms the upper part, which ls the sleeve to a little bolero, worn with a garbadlne of a crow's wing color that In. the deep, deep blue The blue garbadine ls used I for an underslreve to the coatee. This is the same length as the satin sleeve. Then beneath the bolero sleeve falls a long bishop sleeve In dark moussellne de sole. This belongs to the blouse worn with the costume and comes well down to the wrist and ls caught into a tight band. V A Return of the Trim Figure. v At the present moment the female form divine seems only a peg upon which to hang quaint odd garments, loose and floppy, and, let us not mince matters if the gown is not artisti cally draped with a skillful band de cidedlv untidy and ugly. This phase of dress is gradually passing, and I predict ere long that the feminine fig ure will be as Important and, be it said, as pretty a factor In fashion as it ever was. Eccentricity in dress has had its day, and we creators of Fash ion are setting ourselves to reinstate the grace and line and curve of the female figure on the most important pedestal of the Mode. Before very long, dresses will be made to show the figure, not to make it grotesque, as is so often the case. Fig. 1 will give you a good idea of the smart, tight fitting bodice which the ultra fashionable woman has al ready accepted with favor. Just about a year ago Callot Soeurs made an at tempt to Introduce the tight bodice, euch as is 6hown in the sketch, but the time was not then ripe for such a N 1 drastic movement And even here the severity of our grnndames' tight bod ices is softened by the rolling, open collar and the seamless sleeves. For the material a lambent mauve and yellow shot silk is used, which makes an engagingly colorful background for the superimposed rufiles of Bohemian lace on the rear of the skirt The en tire length of the front seam from open throat to drawn-up hem is out lined with closely place! ball buttons of gilt, and the oriental influence on girdles is still manifested in the deft drapery of the sash around the hips The newest style of the exaggerated up tilted hat, born of the craze for the high coiffure, makes an admirable chapeau to wear with this goTvn. It is of leghorn straw, deep yellow in tone and is trimmed with a diagonally slanting land of mauve velvet and Marechal Nlel rosebuds. Some of the latest ideas in hats and between season wraps are enchanting. Take, for instance, the hat shown in Fig. '2. A futurest effect in figured broche In two tones of Brazilian blue, with kimono sleeves, is loosely arrang ed over a waistcoat of tan faille, whose flower petal collar is lined with chif fon of the same shade. A graduated ruffle of the faille, put on with a deep heading, finishes the bottom of the wrap, and the buckles which hold the front of the garment in place are, odd ly enough, of straw. Another most effective model I am showing is of brown moire taffeta with a delicately reddish tinge to it. Shirred on to the deep yoke with a high up standing mffle of both brown net and the material proper is a bouffant dra pery which spreads out, balloon fash ion, over the shoulders only, to be gathered in very tightly at the knees, where it is swooped suddenly up and confined with two bits of gay em broidery. The wrap ls lined with deep yellow chiffon cloth, and a Japanese bow of yellow charmeuse veiled In i eddish brown mallnes adds a telling touch to the back of the neck. Thl same veiled charmeuse ls also used to form the long ends which hang pen dant from the front Still another wrap I have designed has met with more than ordinary fa vor. It ls of lightweight black satin, cut like a high walsted coat, with a circular skirt attached, ending in an Irregular hem above the knees. The puffed sleeves and short little back are of n dim, blurred plaid in yellow, pink and gray-green tones. The rolling Jap collar makes the coat seem cut low In the back, after the prevailing mode of the moment, and a single jet butterfly buckle serves to hold It together In the front. Singularly enough there are but few women who realize, that when one ls cbqpslng a hat it is not only necessary to see that it is becoming to the head, but one roust consider the figure as well. For example, there are many women who have large features and abundant hair, but who at the pame time are short of stature, and a chapeau which would seem on them, when seated, the height of desirability, would appear awkward and topbeavy when the woman is standing. So let me caution you never to decide upon a hat until you bare first gotten a full length rlew of yourself, to see that you have properly carried out the law of values and proportion. Two hats which I would recommend for wear at this season of the year are shown in Figs. 3 and 4. The first, a stiff, wide brimmed sailor, with a cup-like crown, would be charming on a tall woman of slender proportions. A Had the women who are interested in suffrage taken value of dress, militancy would not have A . II p: It Is of Manila straw, champagne in s coloring, and is slightly raised from fi the head by a bandeau of old blue U French velvet Stiffly arranged on the c; bandeau is a bunch of bluish roses with blush pink hearts, posed between two opposing stalks of wheat, deep tan in color, and Identical with the trim ming which encircles the crown proper. The liaison between crown and brim is effected by means of a box-pleated ruche of blue velvet ribbon, and stretched flat over the upper part of the brim Is a circular piece of blue chiffon, printed with tan flowers In conventional design. The other hat, Figure 4, ls well adapted to the Rhorter woman of more ample proportions. It is of the tre mendously popular black Hrrc straw, bent into a piquant shape and pouched in the rear by means of a narrow ap plication of eelonese ribbon. On the Inverted crown are massed in prim pro fusion a quantity of wide open, rose pink, old-fashioned garden roses. Such a hat. being from the nature of Its con struction. Impervious to weather condi tion, should find a ready place In any wardrobe. The hat on Fig. 5 ls of more per ishable materials. It Is of chartreuse colored crin. with a flatly turned back brim, peeked in the front and boasting two contrary-minded black plumes, which face in opposite directions. A swirling black osprey stands erect be f tween them. The little frock featured in Fig. 5 is one of the remarkably woven new French cottons, a erepy body of white gavlv crossed with Roman stripes. White book muslin that delicate fab ric dear to the belles of the eighties forms the under waist, and the ker chieflike collar is caught together at the back of the neck by an old fash ioned cameo pin. A circular ruffle of chartreuse pussy willow silk gives an additional breadth to the ensemble di rectly below the thighs and is also used for a narrow little pointed ruffle at the feet The entire effect of the frock is cool, chic and graceful. Folded ker chiefs, like the one on this little frock, are a dainty feature of the summer modes. Never has there been such a variety of neckwear from which to make n choice. Roll over collars of lawn cambric or pique or of white or cream silk are worn attached to the blouse or waistcoat and adjusted to lie over the coat collar. They, of course, should be quite plain, finished merely with a stitched edge There are some striking combinations of white mallne neckbands, with slides of ornamental motifs of cut Jet Similar decorations )f jet have also been used on neck bands of mallne in various pale shades :o match certain gowns. These, of :ourse, could only be worn with the nore elaborate day frock. The smart Inlsh for a morning frock still con tinues to be the Gladstone collar, with its flaring pointed ends. William Gladstone, one of England's greatest statesmen, wore this style until the tin? of his death, although other dan dies of the Victorian era had long be fore cast it aside for the stiff linen affair of today which the masculine element have adopted. A fragrant novelty from Paris are the diminutive rosebuds, violets and other flowers used to form the head of the pin. These are separate from the pin stem and contain a hollow little socket, which ls filled with the per fume of the flower they represent be fore they are screwed on. The extract can be replenished at will and permits j1 iHSll&K9 a faint aroma, whose source ls indiatin- iBfe-tmKSSa guisbable, to float from the hat Pl A Word About Shoe. fel Dress shoes are becoming more anfl orijfc!1 more unique, and while we in this country are too conservative to copy ihA to their fullest extent some of the ul- iK&ijBM tra Parisian novelties such as even- 'B jiji ing slippers of bright flower-pot color- W&M-K' ffi':v. ing with growing vines hand painted ;K&?MBj on the accompanying hosiery yet Ki3-j -V there are many pretty fancies we may MKi'i--' 'zffi readily adopt. One of the newest Ideas fA H to meet with favOr ls the use of goose fcr- feathers, which are very fine and soft Kv;?"' -' in quality, for the tongues of low cut W';& ' ' patent leathers. These feathers are f-'-Mv dyed to harmonize with the color of fr !?3 ' . ; ' the gown and stocking and one charm- T.-J -'i'j " t Ing effect was obtained by using alter- W natlng green and blue feathers to f" I I I mutch an lrrldevent silk taffeta In r - " V"-V dark green-blue tones. H ' I I In a tango slipper a most happy con I' I H , trast Is made by having the hosiery of a markedly different color from the interlacing ribbons which cross and recross the instep and ankle fastening a little below the calf with a rhine stoue buckle, similar in design to the rhinestone slides attached to the side Of the slipper and which holds the rib bons in place. Contrary to former In clination which ran to exaggeratedly high French heels, the dancing slip- pers this summer are built with flat broad heels which milady a year ago would have regarded with scorn. Now that the sap is up through the ground and golf and other out door sports to the fore. I think a word or two on practical walking shoes would not come amiss. Such shoes should be built on scientific principles, and the clever custom bootmaker stud ies his subject nowadays as thorough ly as any anatomist, for when one walks around a golf course eight or ten miles in a day one's feet must not be thrown out of line, but should be In a natural position to best resist the im pact with the hard earth. Soft ooze leather of a dark brown color which i never hardens no matter how wet the shoes become, is the best thing to se lect for your sport shoes, and the new models show that beauty and utility are not so alien to each other as we have sometimes thought, especially when the alliance is manipulated by the hand of an expert. ( All shoes for formal occasions and scml formal occasions as well, are but toned and one of the nicest models to wear with a frock is the patent leather toe topped with a heavy twilled silk In self toned woven design. Fan cy vestings of thick silk are used by the boot-makers to fashion these dain ty buttoned tops. It should be remem-'' bered that a dead looking leather, in tended for a bright leather, shows t once it comes from old stock, and no matter what price you have paid for it. it will crack and break in a few wearings. Enameled colt skin does not j crack so easily as enameled calf. Among the accessories which smart women buy are silk stockings made with anklets of embroidery or beads of rhlnestones. They seem fanciful, but are really no more so than the now accepted rhinestone studded heels which were laughed at when they made their first appearance last winter. i into consideration the efficacy and ten necessary. UU