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The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1913-1920, June 15, 1914, 4 P.M. City Edition, Image 9

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058396/1914-06-15/ed-1/seq-9/

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4 - THE OGDEN STANDARD, OGDEN. UTAH,"
sjj jfedan2 Sirucox 'Rvie35 JLf
I
UNE ls th? breath
I " sr,ot between
: j "45k the seasons. The
j TNy general dlspcr-
ji W 8in of the fash-
! '"lS ionable H orld has
1 rc iTf c onQmenccd;
w if some of the large
i Tv o- V houses are closed
j and their owners
( H settled in tbeir
H cottages In the
S I summer colonies
f jl or lodged at ho-
f tels like trarel-
1 cts in a foreign
I f ( land, fifth are
I I J nue is no longer
I i UVBsSfer one crush of au-
jM'MSB tnini'iir-s car-
i ji rlages and pedes-
I j f trlnns, aud one ls
at last able to
I cross at the busy renters without risk-
j ;i ing one s life But even though the
' .J general exodus is depleting the social
ranks, and although fashions are set
fled for the moment and dress is not
5 the all absorbing topic for the fem-
t inine element, the streets are still
thronged t 1th well gowned women
who are making plans for a vacation,
1 choosing suitable apparel for week-
end visits and prettj frocks to wear at
I the summer club dances.
Party frocks for the club dances are
of the most diaphanous description.
1 They are of lace, tulle, moussellne de
I sole or figured gauze, with a trimming
1 of delicately tinted flowers posed on
1 taffeta. Blue In every shade ls the
I prevalent tint, also various tones of
w $ yellow, orchid shades of mauve and
I pink, bright rose and geranium, beau
j 1 tiful changeant tissues In opal or moon-
i light tints. Swinging chains and
I B strings of beads are still lavishly used,
i 1 1 in; but not in conjunction with flower gar-
II lands. The two do not harmonize.
A rici blue trouser skirt Is very
I charming with flounces of silver lace
1 and a corsage of self tone tulle caught
sf 1 at the waist with a cluster of malmai-
re I sons and green leaves. One of the pret-
it ipl tiest color combinations is j 'raise de bois
') (Wild Strawberry i and blue. Lovely
I effects are obtained by combining va
le rlouB tones of reds with blue An ex-
I quisite gown for a young girl to wear
imperl ( for dancing on the week-end visit is in
pjif I strawberry colored silk voile with a
Ml wide girdle of Corot blue faille and a
AA little sleeveless corsage of flesh pink
IjjljJ I and cream colored tulle. Petunia red
B is ravishing with a sash of tapestry
AU I blue charmeuse. All the shades of cur-
l I rant red, magenta, Japonica, harmonize
LW I exquisitely with Wedgewood blue. Chl-
ne6e blue, Wynn blue and the various
I 0 I 6moke gray tones. Red and blue blend
I fQj I ed on frocks composed of chiffon and
S tulle in neutral tones is unique, and
M the result of this color combination Is
agP highly artistic. An exquisite little
id
f I
evening gown of white charmeuse has
flounces of black diamante and jet net.
The gems gleam out like tiny scattered
dewdrops. A beautiful ornament of jet
and diamante ls used on the waist and
a most original sash of two tissues of
tulle, tango and blue, posed, one over
the other, and tied high at the back.
There is quite a revival of jet orna
mentations such as our grandmothers
wore when they were belles. The jet
dog-collar has been worn for quite
some time, but the odd jet bracelets
are novel and very picturesque. A de
lightful result is obtained by chains of
Jet beads as a trimming for a white
gown. Jet is wonderfully becoming,
lending the much desired whiteness to
the neck or arms, as the case may be,
and supplying the touch of black which
now seems essential on a pure white
guv, n.
Very modish is the evening bodice,
which boasts long ruched sleeves of
transparent stuff. These are also
charming on an afternoon gown of taf
feta or charmeuse. If the gown Ls in
black and the sleeves white the effect
is very smart. It Is more than a de
cade ago that Sarah Bernhardt the
divine Sarah made this style of sleeve
fashionable. Somehow we always as
sociate the long draped sleeve, with
its ruffle falling well over the hand,
and the extremely high shaped collar
with this noted actress. When the
sleeve ls ruched it has more than one
admirable quality. It makes a thin
arm look plump, and, with the pleated
frill falling well on to the knuckles, an
I unsightly hand can be made to look
quite attractive. When the very warm
weather ls upon us most of our frocks
and blouses will hare elbow sleeves,
hut at the present all gowns of a dis
tinctly day character and, as I have al
ready mentioned, certain evening mod
els have the full length sleeve The
modified leg-o'-mutton sleeve is cut
long enough to wrinkle slightly on the
forearm, but fits very snugly at the
wrist. Sometimes the sleeve is opened
so that the hand may pass through,
and snap buttons close the opening.
Sometimes the sleeve opening is large
enough to admit the hand and is then
pleated under and fastened back with
a snap button after the sleeve ls on.
This style may eventually lead to the
old bell sleeve of our grandmothers.
The latter threatens to make its re-
aiii'aiiiui.e in mu itjuiius ui ujuueni
dress. A marked suggestion of it Is
shown in many of the smartest gowns.
A curious new sleeve on a semi-tailored
costume Is a combination of satin,
serge and net. This novel sleeve In
reality is three sleeves, which do the
duty of one. Black satin forms the
upper part, which ls the sleeve to a
little bolero, worn with a garbadlne of
a crow's wing color that In. the deep,
deep blue The blue garbadine ls used
I for an underslreve to the coatee. This
is the same length as the satin sleeve.
Then beneath the bolero sleeve falls a
long bishop sleeve In dark moussellne
de sole. This belongs to the blouse
worn with the costume and comes well
down to the wrist and ls caught into a
tight band.
V A Return of the Trim Figure.
v At the present moment the female
form divine seems only a peg upon
which to hang quaint odd garments,
loose and floppy, and, let us not mince
matters if the gown is not artisti
cally draped with a skillful band de
cidedlv untidy and ugly. This phase
of dress is gradually passing, and I
predict ere long that the feminine fig
ure will be as Important and, be it
said, as pretty a factor In fashion as it
ever was. Eccentricity in dress has
had its day, and we creators of Fash
ion are setting ourselves to reinstate
the grace and line and curve of the
female figure on the most important
pedestal of the Mode. Before very
long, dresses will be made to show the
figure, not to make it grotesque, as is
so often the case.
Fig. 1 will give you a good idea of
the smart, tight fitting bodice which
the ultra fashionable woman has al
ready accepted with favor. Just about
a year ago Callot Soeurs made an at
tempt to Introduce the tight bodice,
euch as is 6hown in the sketch, but the
time was not then ripe for such a
N 1
drastic movement And even here the
severity of our grnndames' tight bod
ices is softened by the rolling, open
collar and the seamless sleeves. For
the material a lambent mauve and
yellow shot silk is used, which makes
an engagingly colorful background for
the superimposed rufiles of Bohemian
lace on the rear of the skirt The en
tire length of the front seam from
open throat to drawn-up hem is out
lined with closely place! ball buttons
of gilt, and the oriental influence on
girdles is still manifested in the deft
drapery of the sash around the hips
The newest style of the exaggerated
up tilted hat, born of the craze for the
high coiffure, makes an admirable
chapeau to wear with this goTvn. It
is of leghorn straw, deep yellow in
tone and is trimmed with a diagonally
slanting land of mauve velvet and
Marechal Nlel rosebuds.
Some of the latest ideas in hats and
between season wraps are enchanting.
Take, for instance, the hat shown in
Fig. '2. A futurest effect in figured
broche In two tones of Brazilian blue,
with kimono sleeves, is loosely arrang
ed over a waistcoat of tan faille, whose
flower petal collar is lined with chif
fon of the same shade. A graduated
ruffle of the faille, put on with a deep
heading, finishes the bottom of the
wrap, and the buckles which hold the
front of the garment in place are, odd
ly enough, of straw.
Another most effective model I am
showing is of brown moire taffeta with
a delicately reddish tinge to it. Shirred
on to the deep yoke with a high up
standing mffle of both brown net and
the material proper is a bouffant dra
pery which spreads out, balloon fash
ion, over the shoulders only, to be
gathered in very tightly at the knees,
where it is swooped suddenly up and
confined with two bits of gay em
broidery. The wrap ls lined with deep
yellow chiffon cloth, and a Japanese
bow of yellow charmeuse veiled In
i eddish brown mallnes adds a telling
touch to the back of the neck. Thl
same veiled charmeuse ls also used to
form the long ends which hang pen
dant from the front
Still another wrap I have designed
has met with more than ordinary fa
vor. It ls of lightweight black satin,
cut like a high walsted coat, with a
circular skirt attached, ending in an
Irregular hem above the knees. The
puffed sleeves and short little back are
of n dim, blurred plaid in yellow, pink
and gray-green tones. The rolling Jap
collar makes the coat seem cut low In
the back, after the prevailing mode of
the moment, and a single jet butterfly
buckle serves to hold It together In the
front.
Singularly enough there are but few
women who realize, that when one ls
cbqpslng a hat it is not only necessary
to see that it is becoming to the head,
but one roust consider the figure as
well. For example, there are many
women who have large features and
abundant hair, but who at the pame
time are short of stature, and a
chapeau which would seem on them,
when seated, the height of desirability,
would appear awkward and topbeavy
when the woman is standing. So let
me caution you never to decide upon
a hat until you bare first gotten a
full length rlew of yourself, to see that
you have properly carried out the law
of values and proportion.
Two hats which I would recommend
for wear at this season of the year are
shown in Figs. 3 and 4. The first,
a stiff, wide brimmed sailor, with a
cup-like crown, would be charming on
a tall woman of slender proportions.
A Had the women who are interested in suffrage taken
value of dress, militancy would not have A
. II p:
It Is of Manila straw, champagne in s
coloring, and is slightly raised from fi
the head by a bandeau of old blue U
French velvet Stiffly arranged on the c;
bandeau is a bunch of bluish roses
with blush pink hearts, posed between
two opposing stalks of wheat, deep tan
in color, and Identical with the trim
ming which encircles the crown proper.
The liaison between crown and brim is
effected by means of a box-pleated
ruche of blue velvet ribbon, and
stretched flat over the upper part of
the brim Is a circular piece of blue
chiffon, printed with tan flowers In
conventional design.
The other hat, Figure 4, ls well
adapted to the Rhorter woman of more
ample proportions. It is of the tre
mendously popular black Hrrc straw,
bent into a piquant shape and pouched
in the rear by means of a narrow ap
plication of eelonese ribbon. On the
Inverted crown are massed in prim pro
fusion a quantity of wide open, rose
pink, old-fashioned garden roses. Such
a hat. being from the nature of Its con
struction. Impervious to weather condi
tion, should find a ready place In any
wardrobe.
The hat on Fig. 5 ls of more per
ishable materials. It Is of chartreuse
colored crin. with a flatly turned back
brim, peeked in the front and boasting
two contrary-minded black plumes,
which face in opposite directions. A
swirling black osprey stands erect be
f tween them.
The little frock featured in Fig. 5
is one of the remarkably woven new
French cottons, a erepy body of white
gavlv crossed with Roman stripes.
White book muslin that delicate fab
ric dear to the belles of the eighties
forms the under waist, and the ker
chieflike collar is caught together at
the back of the neck by an old fash
ioned cameo pin. A circular ruffle of
chartreuse pussy willow silk gives an
additional breadth to the ensemble di
rectly below the thighs and is also used
for a narrow little pointed ruffle at the
feet The entire effect of the frock is
cool, chic and graceful. Folded ker
chiefs, like the one on this little frock,
are a dainty feature of the summer
modes. Never has there been such a
variety of neckwear from which to
make n choice. Roll over collars of
lawn cambric or pique or of white or
cream silk are worn attached to the
blouse or waistcoat and adjusted to lie
over the coat collar. They, of course,
should be quite plain, finished merely
with a stitched edge There are some
striking combinations of white mallne
neckbands, with slides of ornamental
motifs of cut Jet Similar decorations
)f jet have also been used on neck
bands of mallne in various pale shades
:o match certain gowns. These, of
:ourse, could only be worn with the
nore elaborate day frock. The smart
Inlsh for a morning frock still con
tinues to be the Gladstone collar, with
its flaring pointed ends. William
Gladstone, one of England's greatest
statesmen, wore this style until the
tin? of his death, although other dan
dies of the Victorian era had long be
fore cast it aside for the stiff linen
affair of today which the masculine
element have adopted.
A fragrant novelty from Paris are
the diminutive rosebuds, violets and
other flowers used to form the head of
the pin. These are separate from the
pin stem and contain a hollow little
socket, which ls filled with the per
fume of the flower they represent be
fore they are screwed on. The extract
can be replenished at will and permits
j1 iHSll&K9
a faint aroma, whose source ls indiatin- iBfe-tmKSSa
guisbable, to float from the hat Pl
A Word About Shoe. fel
Dress shoes are becoming more anfl orijfc!1
more unique, and while we in this
country are too conservative to copy ihA
to their fullest extent some of the ul- iK&ijBM
tra Parisian novelties such as even- 'B jiji
ing slippers of bright flower-pot color- W&M-K' ffi':v.
ing with growing vines hand painted ;K&?MBj
on the accompanying hosiery yet Ki3-j -V
there are many pretty fancies we may MKi'i--' 'zffi
readily adopt. One of the newest Ideas fA H
to meet with favOr ls the use of goose fcr-
feathers, which are very fine and soft Kv;?"' -'
in quality, for the tongues of low cut W';& ' '
patent leathers. These feathers are f-'-Mv
dyed to harmonize with the color of fr !?3 ' . ; '
the gown and stocking and one charm- T.-J -'i'j " t
Ing effect was obtained by using alter- W
natlng green and blue feathers to f" I I I
mutch an lrrldevent silk taffeta In r - " V"-V
dark green-blue tones. H ' I I
In a tango slipper a most happy con I' I H ,
trast Is made by having the hosiery
of a markedly different color from the
interlacing ribbons which cross and
recross the instep and ankle fastening
a little below the calf with a rhine
stoue buckle, similar in design to the
rhinestone slides attached to the side
Of the slipper and which holds the rib
bons in place. Contrary to former In
clination which ran to exaggeratedly
high French heels, the dancing slip-
pers this summer are built with flat
broad heels which milady a year ago
would have regarded with scorn.
Now that the sap is up through
the ground and golf and other out
door sports to the fore. I think a
word or two on practical walking shoes
would not come amiss. Such shoes
should be built on scientific principles,
and the clever custom bootmaker stud
ies his subject nowadays as thorough
ly as any anatomist, for when one
walks around a golf course eight or ten
miles in a day one's feet must not be
thrown out of line, but should be In a
natural position to best resist the im
pact with the hard earth. Soft ooze
leather of a dark brown color which i
never hardens no matter how wet the
shoes become, is the best thing to se
lect for your sport shoes, and the new
models show that beauty and utility
are not so alien to each other as we
have sometimes thought, especially
when the alliance is manipulated by
the hand of an expert. (
All shoes for formal occasions and
scml formal occasions as well, are but
toned and one of the nicest models
to wear with a frock is the patent
leather toe topped with a heavy twilled
silk In self toned woven design. Fan
cy vestings of thick silk are used by
the boot-makers to fashion these dain
ty buttoned tops. It should be remem-''
bered that a dead looking leather, in
tended for a bright leather, shows t
once it comes from old stock, and no
matter what price you have paid for
it. it will crack and break in a few
wearings. Enameled colt skin does not j
crack so easily as enameled calf.
Among the accessories which smart
women buy are silk stockings made
with anklets of embroidery or beads
of rhlnestones. They seem fanciful,
but are really no more so than the now
accepted rhinestone studded heels
which were laughed at when they
made their first appearance last winter.
i into consideration the efficacy and
ten necessary. UU

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