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m THE OGDEN STANDARD. OGUEN, UTAH.
j yjariouA &orm& of IB jj BUMMER dnyr. am here unci summer modes. And as you study the in teresting preten - titions of the in- F rC dividual cou iTS! tuners it seems &5 as though the (S spring; maid had v T y peeped in her ruir- g attire n trifle too )y i buoyantly youth- s. Kir ul- "ne su,umer v, ,. aa I girl has smoothed away her hip puff, straightened out her frills and drawn them downward inlo prim looking tunics and skirts. To be sure, some of the pulls refuse to "'stay put" and flare still s;iuclly out ward, but the direction of the modes is toward the elongated silhouette. Mi lady has also pulled down her belt, and the bodice of her gown is devel oped into a long narrow basque that 2 ' possesses a decided suggestion of the I Victorian era of dress. The neck of her frock is cut with a deep curve at the throat, which invites the use of a flaring Norman or Glad ; stone collar, while the sleeves droop modestly over the shoulders. I ' The maid of the spring opening has certain! "reefed her sails." although I am glad she let the little breezes puff them gayly for the first spring months. Who was not happier for the bouynney and fresh colors of these early styles? I However, youthful modes that Incline t to frivolity have passed with the sea I son, and the later models are really f umre practical in that they suit all I figures. Summer garb nffe ts a straight I er contour, which tends to give more slenderness to the wearer a feature tuat will doubtless bring joy to the ' tvoman whose embonpoint was accen tuated in the spring modes. In these new creations the breezes have gone ut of the puffs and the summer sun ! bas allowed the frills to droop. The tunic which has brought about this wonderful change of outline mas querades in several different forms and. not content with monopolizing the skirt, invades many another de partment of dress. There Is the styalght tuniv that Is freoucn'.ly the distinctive note in the sraarJy tailored suit. This may be slightly gathered at the waist so that it fits rather snugly around the figure and extends well be low the knee. Various individual touches are noted on such modes, and, as I think a concrete example always better than a lot of generalities, I will describe one or two that merely hint of the divers ways in which these may be modeled. On a mastic colored suit very attractive motifs were embroid ered in silk floss at the center front, on the sides and in the rear. The de sign, inspired by the Iris, was decided ly decorative and allowed the intro duction of most beautiful lavender and green silks whose lovely color was en hanced by the tiny specks of rich brick red that were cleverly combined in the another model worn by a young woman who dearly loves the out of doors and insists on wearing navy blue irrespective of the demands of fashion bias bands of striped silk bound the blue gabardine. As if to indicate a panel in front two folds of the silk ra diated toward the waistline and in the center back one long strap of silk flanked with folds of shorter length gave an attractive finish to the crea tion. When something less simple, but still rather tailored, is desired, especially when wool fabrics are used, the tunic is ofttimes developed in large pleats that are stitched part way so that there is no great bunchlness around the hips. A very different arrange ment is sometimes given when the tu nic seems to be evolved from a close fitting yoke, A pleasing tailleur which I designed for the young woman to whom I have already referred was fashioned with a small smocked panel .iust below the girdle in the front, so that the fullness was greatest over the instep. A Gown of Rare Charm. The possibilities for novel treatment of the tunic are even greater in silk and in cotton materials, as they are so much lighter in weight and more plia ble. A charming rendition of this adornment is pictured in the illustra tion marked No. 2. Here the tunic lacks any semblance of formality and to the careless eye soetns to suggest I the shawl-like draperies that dark skin ned women of other lands adopt. How ever, this tunic is very cleverly ar ranged. In the front of the figure it is fastened just below the waistline, and as it is drawn towards the back it reveals a small triangular section of the lace flouncing that distinguishes this creation. A cluster of roses skil fully conceals its point of contact, and from this it hangs Loosely apart, so that one may look with satisfaction at the magnlttcent la e underskirt The corsage, which is remarkably decollete, possesses an Inverted pleat ed flounce of handsome lace that bal ances the spreading ends of the silk tunic, while the coiffure boasts of a richly 'jeweled Spanish comb. However, the tunic appears not only on the elaborate evening gown or smart tailleur. The afternoon dress Is en riched by it in one of Its manifold forms. A creation that typifies many of the most ddectatflfl features of the present modes is depicted in the sketch marked No, 1. This -own is most picturesque, for the coat-like waist is originated from a magnificent white Chinese silk exquisitely embroidered with the wonderful colors of the ori- ent. Conforming to the preseut vogue for some mannish detail on the most feminine of costumes, it Is elaborated with n stralghtly cut waistcoat of chrysanthemum yellow, Small silk cov ered buttons reflect the modes of our ancestors, while a flaring Norman col lar of sheerest batiste crests this ador able creation. But our interest for the moment Is in the skirt whose tight fitting founda tion of yellow sntln contrasts striking ly with the tunic of black nlnon. Closely pleated, its many folds advance and ntrcat as milady turns herself about when she meanders through the beautiful gardens or dilates on the latest sociologies questions as she steps within the salou of some learned friend. A charming dash of color which one must not overlook Is found in the roses that mark the limits of the bin. k silk girdle, for these are e.lved from rich shades of violet. But so great is the enthusiasm for the tunic at this time that, even the tailored coat is distinguished by tunic like appendages that doubtless foretell the return of the redingote. The Tunic Masquerades on the Coat. , The illustration No. 4 Is a particu larly good example of the unusual man ifestations of this characteristic fea ture. The coat is very quaintly model ed in the styles that were adored by the women of the Victorian era. Dis tinction Is attained by the pleated tunic that extends around the sides and jack of this much buttoned garment. The skirt shows tho tunic In uncom mon guise. Almost concealing the tight-fitting underskirt, it originates just below the knee and attains a cer tain fullness by the many pleats which compose it Although this creation is rather severe in its style, dainty touches are obtained by the adorable cuffs and collar of fine white organdy. Even the cape seems to hae come under the spell of the tunic. The love ly wrap designated as No. 3 on this .page shows tier after tier of beautiful ly pleated chiffon, whose spiral drapery proves a charming sheathilke covering for the closely-draped inner shell of liberty satin. Black is favored for this production, which depends for its artistic success on the rare richness of the fabrics. However, this style would also be moat pleasing if evolved from some of the colors that nature uses. You know the lovely warm browns with which she oovorR her buds? Well, jusflet us suppose that the inner wrap is made from a silk of that tone, while the acey wings are fashioned from del icate cream lace. In this scheme we have reversed the order of nature, but the result is charming. Monkey Fur Is the New Decoration. A very unusual decoration of monkey fur forms the collar of this wrap. This fur, which is quite a fashionable "trap ping" at this time, is sometimes so closely set around the throat that it gives the appearance of whiskers and is really only chosen by women who delight in eccentric adornment;. Sometimes I feel that, after all. good taste in dress Is a gift from the gods purely artistic and inspirational. Nev ertheless, even if you possess this sense, you must give careful thought to the artistry of clothes, for much dis tinction and charm are achieved by intelllgenobservation and adaptation. Lack of imagination is frequently the cause of failure in successful dressing. There came to my atelier this spring one of the season's most attractive debutantes, whose portrait has smiled to you more than once from the socie ty columns (but, like priests and physi cians, we designers must tell no -names). As she crossed the threshold i it was delightful to see her enthusiasm over some of my creations She would fain have selected one costume after another, but my artistic sense, triumph ed over any commercial desire. All the gowns were exquisite in them selves "joys," my young client named them. However, I told her I wished to chat a bit about clothes before we talk ed gowns. Needing living texts for my subject we laid aside conventions to the extent of stepping into Sherry's for luncheon. Your Personality Is Emphasized In Your Dress. Between the unfolding of our servi ettes and the drinking of our coffee, with gay folk all around us for Inspira tion, I expatiated on my pet theme. The young girl listened most Intelli gently, as I found when we again re turned to my salons. After discussing the psychology of modes and colors lu relation to the personality of the wear er and emphasizing it, even dipping a bit into the occult and touching upon the so-called astral colors, I com menced my salad with the following homily: "Youth is an egoist. That is part of its charm, for outh is infinitc- ly sure of its place in the universe. So in clothes one must never lose sight of one's own personality and faithfully clothe it If only we might stand on one of Whistler's black velvet floors and have the whole studio to ourselves dress would be a simple matter. But as it is, the problem of harmony extends not only to the wearer, but to the surroundings in which the gown appears. Taney that cerise faille you w anted in Mrs. S rose salon. Myr iad other gowns will be there, and you must be able In your dress not only to challenge them, but bear their possible detraction. This is wrhy my artistic self always prefers a gown that expresses a sin gle, well thought-out color note. It is sure to achieve distinction among a legion of costumes, beautiful In them selves, but through the employment of various ill-chosen contrasts, failing in the scheme of the complete picture. Present modes demand variety in color and line, and at this point we art ists assert our skill to concoct a gown beautiful as a design, and yet a dis tinct unit of color and line in the crowded ball room or thronging avenue. Dressing is a careful art and enthn Hjg! slasm will help, but not altogether Kpj achieve, I concluded, as we turned Weft again to the selection of gowns for this mgtt beautiful young woman. wtiua Correct Accessories Must Complete the IP$k Costume. Variety and charming bit of color tm are often effected by the correct acces- JBafcj sories. Have you not seen a picture iu Kiffl which the artist led you deftly to a Kcin dash of brilliant color perhaps merely hcrB by a dash of vermilion or emerald 118 green which made the picture? Of toS? like Importance are accessories. A gay Wz$ parasol will frivol a whole costume or a emartjjag enliven it This is a aea- . t son when a great variety of Ingenious- 1 ly shaped and covered parasols are be- J ing carried. There are Minaret Japa- H nese and dome shapes. In other styles the ribs are bent in eccentric outward e or downward curves, and as for cov- t en chiffon, lace, silk and chiffon af- f ford a delectable choice. Indeed from P filmiest lace creations to colored gol- jF fines there is such assortment that mi- I lady's choice is practically unlimited. f Broad black stripes upon white are exceedingly well liked. Some of these it 1 show a plain border of tomato red, I green, purple or rose. Roman stripes I or Scotch plaids, too, are effective, al- jr though the dainty summer maid is glad jfl that this is a season of the "Beign of Lace," for this fabric bespeaks the in- . nate refinement that is incomparably associated with good birth and breed- f u Handles are both plain and elabo- E rate. Long enamel sticks are frequent- g ly seen. There are also carved ivory w handles, W-hile some are studded with semi-precious stones and iridescent beads l ine Dresden china was chosen ' for the handle of an exquisite pompa- dour silk. Novelties In Neckwear. i Iu neckwear the collar that Is now ; the delight of the fashionable woman 1 shows greater width and is more $ wired, so that the frills are fast becom- t ing more Elizabethan in proportions. r. A tight-fitting little taffeta suit showed I a round, upstanding ne k frill, compel- I ling milady's chin to look up persisteut- V ly, not down. Organdy combined with f ostrich banding is another smart style, jfl w hile some of the newest jackets have I side pleated frills of sheerest linen I plainly hemstitched or edged with lace. Cobwebby materials are employed, f and the capes at the back of the collar vary from a pleated sailor-shaped mod el to a long stole reaching to the hips. Occasionally a sheer frock has a wide sash wirh this sfole-like cape in black H or other pronounced color. U The gauntlet cuff is favored, and It P in turn has often a small inverted P gauntlet at the wrist Velvet is advancing In favor and this t- is noticed in several of the details of p. the smartly gowned woman. Many of t the loveliest evening gowns have snug- i: fitting underdresses of black. Indeed. E deep hems of velvet are often used on n the afternoon or lingerie frock, while . nome of the most adorable white taf- w feta silks are girdled with folds of vol- I vet In glowing olors. Occasionally r these present :i slightly tailored aspect kfl and are finished with large smoked : pearl buttons Of course the velvet hat is again in evidence, made entirely . of the material or combined with lace V or fine braid, i So Subtle is the Psychology of Clothes That a Woman May Add to Herself the Charm of a New Personality by jfi Merely Changing Her Dress, al.-. I '