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The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1913-1920, July 14, 1914, 4 P.M. City Edition, Image 5

Image and text provided by University of Utah, Marriott Library

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058396/1914-07-14/ed-1/seq-5/

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j yjariouA &orm& of IB jj
BUMMER dnyr. am
here unci summer
modes. And as
you study the in
teresting preten
- titions of the in-
F rC dividual cou
iTS! tuners it seems
&5 as though the
(S spring; maid had
v T y peeped in her ruir-
g attire n trifle too
)y i buoyantly youth-
s. Kir ul- "ne su,umer
v, ,. aa I girl has smoothed
away her hip puff, straightened out
her frills and drawn them downward
inlo prim looking tunics and skirts.
To be sure, some of the pulls refuse
to "'stay put" and flare still s;iuclly out
ward, but the direction of the modes
is toward the elongated silhouette. Mi
lady has also pulled down her belt,
and the bodice of her gown is devel
oped into a long narrow basque that
2 ' possesses a decided suggestion of the
I Victorian era of dress.
The neck of her frock is cut with a
deep curve at the throat, which invites
the use of a flaring Norman or Glad
; stone collar, while the sleeves droop
modestly over the shoulders.
I ' The maid of the spring opening has
certain! "reefed her sails." although I
am glad she let the little breezes puff
them gayly for the first spring months.
Who was not happier for the bouynney
and fresh colors of these early styles?
I However, youthful modes that Incline
t to frivolity have passed with the sea
I son, and the later models are really
f umre practical in that they suit all
I figures. Summer garb nffe ts a straight
I er contour, which tends to give more
slenderness to the wearer a feature
tuat will doubtless bring joy to the
' tvoman whose embonpoint was accen
tuated in the spring modes. In these
new creations the breezes have gone
ut of the puffs and the summer sun
! bas allowed the frills to droop.
The tunic which has brought about
this wonderful change of outline mas
querades in several different forms
and. not content with monopolizing
the skirt, invades many another de
partment of dress. There Is the
styalght tuniv that Is freoucn'.ly the
distinctive note in the sraarJy tailored
suit. This may be slightly gathered at
the waist so that it fits rather snugly
around the figure and extends well be
low the knee. Various individual
touches are noted on such modes, and,
as I think a concrete example always
better than a lot of generalities, I will
describe one or two that merely hint
of the divers ways in which these may
be modeled. On a mastic colored suit
very attractive motifs were embroid
ered in silk floss at the center front,
on the sides and in the rear. The de
sign, inspired by the Iris, was decided
ly decorative and allowed the intro
duction of most beautiful lavender and
green silks whose lovely color was en
hanced by the tiny specks of rich brick
red that were cleverly combined in the
another model worn by a young
woman who dearly loves the out of
doors and insists on wearing navy blue
irrespective of the demands of fashion
bias bands of striped silk bound the
blue gabardine. As if to indicate a
panel in front two folds of the silk ra
diated toward the waistline and in the
center back one long strap of silk
flanked with folds of shorter length
gave an attractive finish to the crea
tion. When something less simple, but still
rather tailored, is desired, especially
when wool fabrics are used, the tunic
is ofttimes developed in large pleats
that are stitched part way so that
there is no great bunchlness around
the hips. A very different arrange
ment is sometimes given when the tu
nic seems to be evolved from a close
fitting yoke, A pleasing tailleur which
I designed for the young woman to
whom I have already referred was
fashioned with a small smocked panel
.iust below the girdle in the front, so
that the fullness was greatest over the
A Gown of Rare Charm.
The possibilities for novel treatment
of the tunic are even greater in silk
and in cotton materials, as they are so
much lighter in weight and more plia
ble. A charming rendition of this
adornment is pictured in the illustra
tion marked No. 2. Here the tunic
lacks any semblance of formality and
to the careless eye soetns to suggest I
the shawl-like draperies that dark skin
ned women of other lands adopt. How
ever, this tunic is very cleverly ar
ranged. In the front of the figure it
is fastened just below the waistline,
and as it is drawn towards the back
it reveals a small triangular section of
the lace flouncing that distinguishes
this creation. A cluster of roses skil
fully conceals its point of contact, and
from this it hangs Loosely apart, so
that one may look with satisfaction at
the magnlttcent la e underskirt
The corsage, which is remarkably
decollete, possesses an Inverted pleat
ed flounce of handsome lace that bal
ances the spreading ends of the silk
tunic, while the coiffure boasts of a
richly 'jeweled Spanish comb.
However, the tunic appears not only
on the elaborate evening gown or smart
tailleur. The afternoon dress Is en
riched by it in one of Its manifold
forms. A creation that typifies many
of the most ddectatflfl features of the
present modes is depicted in the sketch
marked No, 1. This -own is most
picturesque, for the coat-like waist is
originated from a magnificent white
Chinese silk exquisitely embroidered
with the wonderful colors of the ori-
ent. Conforming to the preseut vogue
for some mannish detail on the most
feminine of costumes, it Is elaborated
with n stralghtly cut waistcoat of
chrysanthemum yellow, Small silk cov
ered buttons reflect the modes of our
ancestors, while a flaring Norman col
lar of sheerest batiste crests this ador
able creation.
But our interest for the moment Is
in the skirt whose tight fitting founda
tion of yellow sntln contrasts striking
ly with the tunic of black nlnon.
Closely pleated, its many folds advance
and ntrcat as milady turns herself
about when she meanders through the
beautiful gardens or dilates on the
latest sociologies questions as she
steps within the salou of some learned
friend. A charming dash of color
which one must not overlook Is found
in the roses that mark the limits of
the bin. k silk girdle, for these are
e.lved from rich shades of violet.
But so great is the enthusiasm for
the tunic at this time that, even the
tailored coat is distinguished by tunic
like appendages that doubtless foretell
the return of the redingote.
The Tunic Masquerades on the Coat.
, The illustration No. 4 Is a particu
larly good example of the unusual man
ifestations of this characteristic fea
ture. The coat is very quaintly model
ed in the styles that were adored by
the women of the Victorian era. Dis
tinction Is attained by the pleated
tunic that extends around the sides and
jack of this much buttoned garment.
The skirt shows tho tunic In uncom
mon guise. Almost concealing the
tight-fitting underskirt, it originates
just below the knee and attains a cer
tain fullness by the many pleats which
compose it Although this creation is
rather severe in its style, dainty
touches are obtained by the adorable
cuffs and collar of fine white organdy.
Even the cape seems to hae come
under the spell of the tunic. The love
ly wrap designated as No. 3 on this
.page shows tier after tier of beautiful
ly pleated chiffon, whose spiral drapery
proves a charming sheathilke covering
for the closely-draped inner shell of
liberty satin. Black is favored for this
production, which depends for its
artistic success on the rare richness of
the fabrics. However, this style would
also be moat pleasing if evolved from
some of the colors that nature uses.
You know the lovely warm browns
with which she oovorR her buds? Well,
jusflet us suppose that the inner wrap
is made from a silk of that tone, while
the acey wings are fashioned from del
icate cream lace. In this scheme we
have reversed the order of nature, but
the result is charming.
Monkey Fur Is the New Decoration.
A very unusual decoration of monkey
fur forms the collar of this wrap. This
fur, which is quite a fashionable "trap
ping" at this time, is sometimes so
closely set around the throat that it
gives the appearance of whiskers and
is really only chosen by women who
delight in eccentric adornment;.
Sometimes I feel that, after all. good
taste in dress Is a gift from the gods
purely artistic and inspirational. Nev
ertheless, even if you possess this
sense, you must give careful thought to
the artistry of clothes, for much dis
tinction and charm are achieved by
intelllgenobservation and adaptation.
Lack of imagination is frequently the
cause of failure in successful dressing.
There came to my atelier this spring
one of the season's most attractive
debutantes, whose portrait has smiled
to you more than once from the socie
ty columns (but, like priests and physi
cians, we designers must tell no
-names). As she crossed the threshold i
it was delightful to see her enthusiasm
over some of my creations She would
fain have selected one costume after
another, but my artistic sense, triumph
ed over any commercial desire.
All the gowns were exquisite in them
selves "joys," my young client named
them. However, I told her I wished to
chat a bit about clothes before we talk
ed gowns. Needing living texts for my
subject we laid aside conventions to
the extent of stepping into Sherry's for
Your Personality Is Emphasized In
Your Dress.
Between the unfolding of our servi
ettes and the drinking of our coffee,
with gay folk all around us for Inspira
tion, I expatiated on my pet theme.
The young girl listened most Intelli
gently, as I found when we again re
turned to my salons. After discussing
the psychology of modes and colors lu
relation to the personality of the wear
er and emphasizing it, even dipping a
bit into the occult and touching upon
the so-called astral colors, I com
menced my salad with the following
homily: "Youth is an egoist. That is
part of its charm, for outh is infinitc-
ly sure of its place in the universe. So
in clothes one must never lose sight of
one's own personality and faithfully
clothe it If only we might stand on
one of Whistler's black velvet floors
and have the whole studio to ourselves
dress would be a simple matter.
But as it is, the problem of harmony
extends not only to the wearer, but to
the surroundings in which the gown
appears. Taney that cerise faille you
w anted in Mrs. S rose salon. Myr
iad other gowns will be there, and you
must be able In your dress not only to
challenge them, but bear their possible
This is wrhy my artistic self always
prefers a gown that expresses a sin
gle, well thought-out color note. It is
sure to achieve distinction among a
legion of costumes, beautiful In them
selves, but through the employment of
various ill-chosen contrasts, failing in
the scheme of the complete picture.
Present modes demand variety in
color and line, and at this point we art
ists assert our skill to concoct a gown
beautiful as a design, and yet a dis
tinct unit of color and line in the
crowded ball room or thronging avenue.
Dressing is a careful art and enthn Hjg!
slasm will help, but not altogether Kpj
achieve, I concluded, as we turned Weft
again to the selection of gowns for this mgtt
beautiful young woman. wtiua
Correct Accessories Must Complete the IP$k
Variety and charming bit of color tm
are often effected by the correct acces- JBafcj
sories. Have you not seen a picture iu Kiffl
which the artist led you deftly to a Kcin
dash of brilliant color perhaps merely hcrB
by a dash of vermilion or emerald 118
green which made the picture? Of toS?
like Importance are accessories. A gay Wz$
parasol will frivol a whole costume or
a emartjjag enliven it This is a aea- . t
son when a great variety of Ingenious- 1
ly shaped and covered parasols are be- J
ing carried. There are Minaret Japa- H
nese and dome shapes. In other styles
the ribs are bent in eccentric outward e
or downward curves, and as for cov- t
en chiffon, lace, silk and chiffon af- f
ford a delectable choice. Indeed from P
filmiest lace creations to colored gol- jF
fines there is such assortment that mi- I
lady's choice is practically unlimited. f
Broad black stripes upon white are
exceedingly well liked. Some of these it
1 show a plain border of tomato red, I
green, purple or rose. Roman stripes I
or Scotch plaids, too, are effective, al- jr
though the dainty summer maid is glad jfl
that this is a season of the "Beign of
Lace," for this fabric bespeaks the in- .
nate refinement that is incomparably
associated with good birth and breed- f
Handles are both plain and elabo- E
rate. Long enamel sticks are frequent- g
ly seen. There are also carved ivory w
handles, W-hile some are studded with
semi-precious stones and iridescent
beads l ine Dresden china was chosen '
for the handle of an exquisite pompa-
dour silk.
Novelties In Neckwear. i
Iu neckwear the collar that Is now ;
the delight of the fashionable woman 1
shows greater width and is more $
wired, so that the frills are fast becom- t
ing more Elizabethan in proportions. r.
A tight-fitting little taffeta suit showed I
a round, upstanding ne k frill, compel- I
ling milady's chin to look up persisteut- V
ly, not down. Organdy combined with f
ostrich banding is another smart style, jfl
w hile some of the newest jackets have I
side pleated frills of sheerest linen I
plainly hemstitched or edged with lace.
Cobwebby materials are employed, f
and the capes at the back of the collar
vary from a pleated sailor-shaped mod
el to a long stole reaching to the hips.
Occasionally a sheer frock has a wide
sash wirh this sfole-like cape in black H
or other pronounced color. U
The gauntlet cuff is favored, and It P
in turn has often a small inverted P
gauntlet at the wrist
Velvet is advancing In favor and this t-
is noticed in several of the details of p.
the smartly gowned woman. Many of t
the loveliest evening gowns have snug- i:
fitting underdresses of black. Indeed. E
deep hems of velvet are often used on n
the afternoon or lingerie frock, while .
nome of the most adorable white taf- w
feta silks are girdled with folds of vol- I
vet In glowing olors. Occasionally r
these present :i slightly tailored aspect kfl
and are finished with large smoked :
pearl buttons Of course the velvet
hat is again in evidence, made entirely .
of the material or combined with lace V
or fine braid,
i So Subtle is the Psychology of Clothes That a Woman May Add to Herself the Charm of a New Personality by
jfi Merely Changing Her Dress, al.-. I

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