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M THh OGDEN STANDARD, OGDEN, UTAH.
1 i. ,. 1 , I COPYRIGHT . CLARA-5IMC0X ' r II 505 5 NVt NW YORK. '-4 ffime Siracoxlkficfg - v A eui of gi.onclonfcfiions mm Y Mlmt Sirncox is Am'eric Gr ea-test j J Desiixe-r a.ncl Creator of FesKvort I i tf OXnnx. - Fashion is a. an active abstrac- JPl Bu I 1;"n wn'cn jenal-- ' H 1 J bio ieople detest 9.. . J-M and sensibly ob- ! iliimOm siife. Humanity H 9"Pt ls divisible into w M those who observe PsV it unci those who ) I do nt. There are some women. Hng- lish nml Ameii- J can, and of every other nationality for the mutter of that, who. Imagining that they nre de ficient in personal clinrm (I admit tlmt there nre such, although the 'hcster fleldinn school of philosophers would ridicule the idem, endeavor to make ibeir clothes the spell of their attrac tion. With this end In view, they la bor by lavish expenditure to supply in expensive apparel what they lack in beauty of form and feature. This- is very well to a certain extent, but ele gant dressing does not depend entirely upon expense. V women may wear the costliest silks that France could produce, adorn herself with exquisite lares, which years of patient toil are required to fabricate; she might carry the jewels of an eastern princess around ber neck and on her finders, yet still 1n appearance be essentially vulgar. Then, on the other hand, we find the opposite type, especially in England) those women who neglect their dress through a strange affecta tion of singularity and who really take P a pride an being thought utterly Indif ferent to their persona appearance. 1 beard a well known British writer remark the other day, "Without dress a handsome woman is a gem. but a gem that is not. set." It is true that when correct taste is observed the charm of woman is intensified. There is very little difference in Lon don and American fashions, but there is a great difference in the way In which the women of the two nations wear their clothes, and It is most in teresting to draw comparisons in this respect The English woman does not wear Freix h fashions as though she really enjoyed them. She will don the most eccentric i'arisiau styles, have her coiffure arranged in the latest mode, but somehow, when thus garb ed, she koksa little gauche; but the same mode worn by a dashing Amer ican damsel would in all probability look very chic and smart, for the daughters of the Fuited States have a certain little impertinent courage which helps them to earrj oft no mat ter what eccentricity Hut the Eng lish girls with their fair Anglo-Saxon skins and their blue eyes have a par ticular charm of their own, and they are at their very best in the trig Eng lish tailored suits or the simple garden party frock. But. on the other hand, It must be admitted that at the after theatre suppers In the large hotels, particularly at the Savoy, the Ritz and the Cecil, oue sees the acme of perfec- 1 tion in evening dress. No smart Eng lish woman appears In a hlcrh neck after x o'clock, nod the enwns seen In the dress circle of the fashionable Strand theatres and at the tanro din ners nre very elegant "Tango dinners," by the bve, are quite the rage lu Ixmilon. A hostess jrivine a private dinner will send her invitations out with tbe word Tango' printed in the right hand corner. This means that between each course iho guests can get up from their scats and "tango;" after a feyv whirl! they re-I turn to the next course. Frocks for the tango dinners and teas are of the most elaborate description Chantilly lace is used In profusion. Tulle is the favorite diaphanous fabric. An exqui site Hesh colored tulle dancing frock has tiny brilliants sewn all over it, which gives the effect of sparkling dewdrops. soft bodice composed of Borne fabric which affords a complete contrast with the skirt are seen on many of the prettiest powtis. although in many Instances the 'rf material is either brought up on to the corsage in point back and front' or carried over : the shoulders even Ihi some instances. Flower girdles seem morp liked than the girdle of soft safSn or silk The J simple garden flowers in mixed colors) are often ehosen for the girdles for j young girls, the btoSSOlhs being of n miniature si.e naturally, as otherwise the effect would bea little clumsy. A. pretty dance frock of snow white cbif- ; fon has a flowcT gtrdle carried out in hedge roses, some white and some pink, Intermingled yvith sweet briar foliage. Another exjquisite dance frock is in pale blue silk net the skirt made yvlth three decks and the hem of each 1 flounce bordered yvfth forget menots, in the center of each flower a tlnv brilliant. Miss Shirley Kellog, the dainty American actress who has for some time achieved such great personal tri umph in London, and who is now play Intr in "Hullo. Tango" is not only celebrated for her talents in the dra matic field, but she h?.'S the reputation of being one of the smartest dressed' women In London, ftne of her gowns is a marvellous creation and has set all London talking. It is a shimmering diaphanous silk trimmed with a vo lant of tulle. The wonderful thins about the frock is the deep full flounce of ostrich feathers about a foot in width which edges the tulle flounce This falls over the daintiest of silk pantalettes. This talented actress has a decided penchant for all kinds of feathers not only for the adornment of her chapeaux and frocks, but for the decoration of her home. Incidentally speaking of feather trimming, this gar niture yvas seen as a decorative medi um on many of the smart gowns and yvraps worn at the Ascot races. A long taffeta cape on the Brigand order which was worn over a black and white Chantilly lace gown, was trim med with a narrow waving trimming 'of ostrich plumes. A cape wrap en tirely of black Chantilly lace, made In the shape of a littlp three-quarter length French mantelet, had a collar edged with feathers. These Chantilly laco capes have a remarkably dainty effect when worn over a white or light, colored net or silk frock. It is an ULuil wrap for restaurant or theater wear or hot summer evenings, when a thick er manteau could not be tolerated. The English woman seems to favor the combination of black satin and blue gabardine or serge quite as much as the American. This style of cos tume made on smart Hues Is very much liked for coaching. At the re cent Marathon coaching race this mode was well to the foro One costume a coat and skirt, had a tunic of serge depending apparently from the coat with a band two Inch hroad Of black satin and cuffs of the same. Another had stitched bands of tuffeta on a gored tunic, and a third gown had tunic pleats opening over panels of black satin. Another model which com bined all the little characteristic touch es of the moment in ttie smartest man nerthe skirt tight at the ankles, yvlth full tunic, loug loose fitting yvaist and open throat. The bodice and tunic were of fine blue serge, the bodice cut almost In apron form, yvith rat net loose armboles from which tight long sleeves of black satin appeared The tunic -was gored In six pieces, and a loose belt "was along round rather b low the yvaist and held in place by tiny straps of serge. The belt was in black silk braid with two long fringed ends. I am Illustrating my text this week with soQJu extremely smart afternoou gowns. Fig. 1 shows a dress of black taffeta with an underskirt of plaid material. As will be noted, the tuniCi which has a considerable flare at the hem, is arranged on a hip emplace ment by means of a thick silk cord. The waistcoat Is made of the same plaid material as the underskirt and is edged round the neck with a nar row passementerie which has a sug gestion of blue, gold and bla-k in it. The vest is fastened with handsome enamel buttons in which the same col oring appears. Attached to the vvnlst coat is a little roll over collar of white taffeta. A distinctive, note is shown in the loot of the sume silk y hich trim the coat in front and the length of the sleeyes. which are much shorter than the average sleeve. The long suede glove covers the arm to above the elbow. The second dress is in blue crepe de Chine, with a blouse of white voile embroidered wltb motifs in turquoise M blue and preen. The Normandy collar is especially becoming for slim throats as it stands ayvay from the nock iu a particularly graceful curve. A fish- flH wife drapery, still suggestive of the Normandy influence, gives the fash- flH lonaWe bunched up effects to the hips and tops a double tiered skirt, which IB is hand embroidered in conventional design. The toqne ts in hLick satin, trimmed with black plumes. A Kmart tailored suit in black taffeta ts shown in Fig. 3. This Lns a collar B in white ottoman. The jaifcet in halT IH length has a decided godet flare, a very new style of skirt is Jiown in this mudeL The hip cmrpieceuiamt. you will Hl observe, is shaped very low snff is B very flat, but the g:odet flounce, which B comes below. gjy ample fullncs to the skirt This uit would be very jHH smart made la tussor or in a summer duvetyne. The roll over collar and smart little cuffs ,eou Id be lu a pretty 'iH striped silk The hat worn with this 1 costume is turned up at a sweeping 11 angle. The hat is in burnt Tagal '1 straw, with the nnderbrim faced with 1 black silk and two enormoa loops of ll silk ribbon trimming the right side. fll Fig. 4 depicts a very new long basqued costume. As I mentioned in M my article last rwk this style of dress 1 is ultra fashionable and exceedingly 1 smart on a slim woman. The tunic U 1 very fully pleated on to a hip empiece- fll ment and falls over the regulation Hl tight underskirt. The corsage, which BaHM is fitted yvith a feyv darts under the H9 arms, fastens straight down the front f with china buttons. A very quaint and MSB novel way is shoyvn in The inset of USB the sleeve. These are put in high on HKn to the shoulders with a few gathers. IfflBl This gives a very different affect from IHn the long kimono shoulder cut. The iH&H roll over collar is curved to stand well BH away from the neck. The small bat 'Hjflfl is in black satin, and the gown in R9 this instance is in white silk pebble 59 crepe. Whh a gown of this descrip- WKm tion the only decorative touch that is MBB necessary is n necklace of some vivid raiS hue. On this model there is a long J necklace that reaches to the tnees. BIB I This Is in van-colored stones blue and fiB red predominating. All shapes and WKEi I shades of beads arp used In these iBR J quaint barbaric nec klaces. They are jBKi i more convenient to wear when knot- man! ted. but they are usually left to hanp RS . loose, and they give a very pretty KK I touch of color to a Ahite costume. Iraj! I A well dressed woman dves up to her clothes, she knows that she gives pleasure wherever she goes, that she is a delight to the eye, a joy to herself and all who meet her. 4. I ill i