The Ogden standard. [volume], October 13, 1917, 4 P.M. CITY EDITION, MAGAZINE SECTION, Image 23

About The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1913-1920

Image provided by: University of Utah, Marriott Library

                
jlS Huge Crush Crowns Which May Be' Adjusted
Wjm A s One Pleases - Three Buttons Form a Cor-
Swf rect Hat Trimming Brown Hats and
l Veils Have Special Favor Just Now -
Wm Turbans of Metal Brocade.
I jOSTI'S GOOD-BYE floating
Bj fi! through open windows from
ho- apartment house phonographs.
'. and new fall hats on feminine
,jJJ heads, mark the passing of summer
Jffl and the opening of tho autumn sca-
son whatever the weather chooses
to be. The last straw hat has gone
So and even the out-of-town woman Is
Q"j5 winter hatted. Usually tho very last
Ic ohapcaus of the season arc seen on
women whose country houses are kept
5. open until late In September. They
t&j do not feel the town urge to buy new
frr fall raiment because everybody else
: Is doing so and because winter things'
are displayed in all tho shop windows
but come in to shop and hurry back
: to country delights with a fine Indlf-
ference for town traditions. The
matter of new fall hats can bo taken
up presently when they get back to
town; meanwhile out on the golf
r links and at the country club one
, clings to the beloved summer sport
r toggery as long as possible.
But September Is one thing; and
, October Is quite another from a
fashionable nolnt nf vinw t-tip-ii iinln
1 finery! The woman who can only
jSmM buy one hat looks about a long time
tl and thinks a good deal before dccld-
atel M lnfC tho important question, but she
toll Who cairstP 'n at her favorite mll-
UlK liner's and pick out half a dozen
nil 8 fetching hats In a morning and dls-
m card them If they prove unbecoming
H after two week3 for another batch of
m 1 millinery refuses to givo any ccn-
I slderation to tho subject until the mo-
ato I ment of decision arrives. It is these
not 2 profitable patrons that Madame of the
,jf smart little millinery shop Is on the
m MA lookout for. The occasional customer
tjjg wjr will be suited with a becoming hat
any K lf possible but when tho regular and
ffi m anticipated patron alights from her
m f car at the door, then indeed are
Madame and her helpers on the qui
vive. then are brought out the Incom
parable Paris models held in reserve
for this moment.
Few French Hats This Year.
There Is a dearth of Paris millin
ery this year.. Not only have many
American concerns refrained from
sending buyers abroad but shipments
from Paris arc so delayed that there
Is danger of hats being held up until
their stylo value has completely
passed. So a great many of the New
York milliners are making their own j
hats, relying on cables from Paris I
rather than on actual French mil- '
llnery models, for inspiration. But
nobody will bo disappointed in the
American hats, for their stylo and
their chic are most satisfying. A
good many of them are mado by
French milliners whose art has not
been lessened by a sojourn In America.
Madame of the smart little shop Just
off Fifth Avenue knows exactly what
her valued customers like and keeps
their preferences and their types in
mind when new models are being prc-
parea in ncr work room. A really
clever milliner will never sell any
woman an unbecoming hat, A cus
tomer pleased means a patron secured
and patrons that may be counted on.
season after season, arc a valuable
asset to successful business.
Crush Crowns Are Picturesque.
Three types of October millinery
aro pictured; the big picture hat. the
close little turban for street wear,
and the narrow-brim sailor type
which Is ravlshlngly becoming to some
womeni A hat that Is not very large
or very small must possess especial
chic or it will be mediocre and insig
nificant. The vast army of middle
aged, conservatively Inclined women
who dare not select extreme styles of
tho very largo or very small type.
lveVBourd-iwitTFloeY of Tinted Velvet
wear medium sized, unobtrusive hats:
so tho medium hat, to bo chic, must
have a dash and a pretllness that
render it conspicuous or it will be
lost In the rut of the conventional.
Of the very large hats, those with big
crush crowns aro most picturesque.
These crowns are a study all in them
selves. They may bo draped this way
or that and by their slant and their
silhouette they give "temperament"
to tho hat. Sometimes tho crown is
a high, soft cylinder of velvet, dented
In at the top; sometimes It Is high
and round in the accordeon style, with
many cords run horizontally around
tho crown which may bo crushed
down at one side or the other, or at
front or back according to tho slant
of the whole hat on the head. Tho
ml- 'TTgysTOXISHING AS HAS been tho
ff 3 fure cap in a generation of
r evanescent fashions, it Is not
hard to understand tho persistent
flg ' hold this trifling bit of costume has
i maintained on feminine fancy. The
'jg boudoir cap camo as a fad and rc-
aD malned as an indispensable. It was
hea far too useful an item of tho ward-
;lDg robo to be abandoned, once woman
5 had learned to depend upon it. Llko
ifM ' tho shirtwaist which everybody
mm thought was a passing whim of style
lUjl that would last a season or so, tho
jedj i coiffure cap camo to charm for a
jj l season and stayed to servo forever
n,L, who knows? at any rate there Is no
VzmK evldenco of any wane in Its popular-
If "y. .
jTjJ And as tho seasons roll on, coiffure
caps become smarter and smarter.
SM More and more tlmo and art are spent
Bfl J . on them, and higher and higher prices
jfjjj ro asked for some of them. One
ffifl ' may buy a "boodwar" cap at that
: Incomparable bourne of tho masses,
WjLA Y "The 5 and 10;" or one may go a-
jafj gleaning along the expensive llttlo
fl ; streets that spray out from Fifth
W ' Avenue, and pick up a breakfast cap
JjJJ ; from Paris .for five or ten dollars.
atffj Between tho two extremes there are
JjJ : thousands of caps, most of them well
f!B under five dollars and probably a third
Almm 1 of them under a dollar.
Away back in before-the-Clvil War
times they wore coiffure caps, and i
caps were kept on all day long not
merely donned for breakfast and
lounging hours. When President Van
Buren called to pay his respects to
the wlfo of one of his most respected
fellow statesmen, she received him In
a gown of home-woven sl'uff, wide
skirted and trim waisted and with her
hair sleekly banded down from part
ing to check and half covered by a
coquettish white cap with frilled tabs
over tho ears. In 1835 evory woman
over forty donned a cap; and truth
to tell there was a bit of vanity in
tho practice for the cap covered up
graj' hair, and a smoothly banded and
parted false piece, showing In the
front was carefully matched to the
shade Its wearer's tresses used to be.
In splto of Its Irrepressible coquetry,
tho modern coiffure cap is a most
practical Item of tho wardrobe. Be
sides making Its wearer look admir
ably charming in tho trying early
morning hours, it encourages prompt
ness at the breakfast table. The most
tedious part of a morning toiletto is
"fixing the hair." No woman can
undertake that important business
hurriedly, and hair tossed up any
old way will havo to bo taken down
again and more carefully arranged in
mid-morning; but how easy to fluff
up ' the waves in front, coll. up tho
back with two hairpins and covor all
delinquencies with a sightly coiffure
cap that is a real addition to one's
breakfast costume! No wonder a
pretty coiffure cap hangs on the bed
post in every feminine sleeping cham
ber, ready-to-hand the moment a
knock at the door threatens one's
early morning curl-paper privacy.
And some of theso caps hanging on
bed posts are so cntranclngly dainty
and so well matched to boudoir hang
ings that one suspects they aro well
calculated ornaments to tho color
scheme of the room, tho actual, prac
tical breakfast cap being hidden In
somo less conspicuous and effective
spot.
As a Christmas or birthday or week
end gift the coiffure cap holds high
rank of popularity; and many caps
aro won as bridge party prizes. Somo
of theso are dainty models picked up
In tho shops that Import from Paris,
and somo are fashioned at home, for
many women have a knack of making
fetching caps with their own hands
and the hand-made caps aro usually
tho prettiest and most distinctive.
Scraps of lace, of colored balisto, of
machine embroidery, of silk or ribbon
are all treasures to tho woman who
knows how to fashion coiffure caps
and when she has to bestow a llttlo
glft, flvo minutes search among her
treasures and twenty-five minutes
work with needle and thread will
evolve the most delectable sort of
present for a feminine friend. Thcro
wido brims aro supple also, mado of
velvet over flexible stiffening material,
or of gold or sliver net shirred on
flexible wires. Such a hat is pictured
in tho restaurant model of sliver net
and velvot. The brim of silver not
is edged with a facing of velvet like
the crown and this velvet Is a lovely
marine blue shade, the velvet flowers
one might call thorn asters
wreathed around tho baso of the
crown being In soft, dull tones of
wedgowood and hyacinth blue. "This
Is tho now crater crown, made with
four box pleats of velvet, with tho top
punched in, quite like tho opening of
a volcanic mountain.
Backward Slant Of Turbans.
The delightful little theatre hat of
metal ombroidered velvet comes from
Is a good deal of art, to bo sure, in
.the building ot coiffure caps. It Is
not as easy as ono might suppose to
put together tho llttlo scraps of laco
and fabric and achlovo a headdress
that has lines and chic. Every sea
son tho silhouette of tho colffuro cap
changes and ono must keep up with
fashion If one's caps aro to have valuo
as gifts.
Tho best way is to build a pattorn
cap out of worthless scraps and ma
terials and when tho pattern has been
snipped away and taken in and lot
out until its proportions aro satisfac
tory, It may bo ripped apart and used
as a guide in cutting up moro valu
ablo fabrics. Just now the smart colf
furo cap outlines the shape of tho
head from forehead back to crown.
This lino must bo preserved If tho
cup Is to havo chic, as all Paris made
caps havo whatever their whimsies of
shape or trimming. Tho mob cap,
with full crown gathered Into a rib
bon band and frill around tho edge
Is not at all fashlonablo though ono
will And plenty of this stylo at tho
aforementioned "6 and 10." Tho mod
ern cap must have individuality, even
if its Individuality Is a trifle bizarre.
Of course, the hand mado caps of
real lace and beautiful hand needle
work on a sheer fabric aro the most
expensive and tho most desirable. Ten
or twelve dollars Is not an excesslvo
price to pay for a hand mado cap
from Paris; so thoSvoman who can
build pretty caps by hand has It In
her power to bestow really, beautiful
and valuable gifts or to furnish her
guests with bridge prizes really worth
tho wlnnlucr. Tho thrco coiffure caps
Loontlno and is the most captivating i
model on the page, do you not agree
with me? Altogether chic It Is. with
its rakish slant backward, lt3 visor
brim that curls up behind the cars,
and Its cunning llttlo bow and band
Of white fur. Black velvot, embroid
ered with dull gold thread and with
bronzo and gold beads, Is tho fabric
of this charming turban which settles
very low on the head, the visor brim
qulto hiding the eyebrows. Under a
hat of this sort the hair must be
worn very close to tho head so that
the head-size of tho hat may bo as
small as possiblo and tho whole hat
correspondingly dainty In outline.. A
bulging turban over a bulging, built
out colffuro would make the head
look too largo and clumsy to please
pictured aro hand made models, two
hailing frcm Paris and tho third Toe
ing a copy of a French cap mado
recently for an autumn bride by ono
of her bridesmaids. This last cap is
tho ono with a ribbon bow a la Alsace
across tho front and pretty as It lsH
the model should bo easy to fashion
by any clover needlewoman. First
A bit of mnclilnc embroidery, strips of
Vnl lnco and n handful of crystal
beads. Rut It is the draped
back effect Ukc a Hod
Cross headdress that
is Interesting-.
: ' V illi
repeated Crown, of
is "Dainty KstmeeKat
if (3 Tay- (j-ee-nBpocade,
Brnro o C G pay PYush
:ed with BlackVelvet
fashion these days when small, aristo
cratic craniums aro considered tho
ideal.
Many of the now turbans havo this
semlmilitary suggestion, with soft
crown and visor brim, though for
feminine wear tho visor is somewhat
exaggerated and the head-sizo mado
rather large so that tho hat settles
low and shades tho face. A smart
lieutenant in his new uniform would
present a curious silhouette 1 his
cap settled clear over his ears and
eyebrows; and the feminine wearer
of a military cap would look equally
absurd wcro her headgear mounted H
on a small head-band so that it
perched high on her head as a man's jH
hat docs. Somo of the military hats H
have thrco buttons for trimming; ono H
very stunning affair of brown velvet H
with big crown and narrow visor H
brim, has a gold cord tied In a knot H
at tho front. It Is the shape and tho
dash of tho hat that counts tho trim- IJ
mlng matters not at all so long as IH
thcro is llttlo enough of It IH
Trlcorncs Ilavo High Crowns. IH
Of course, the trlcorne was bound
to be popular In a season of ml'Itary IH
headgear, and no type of hat is moro IH
dashing and moro becoming than the IH
trlcorne. A new trlcorno model in
black velvet with a tassel of chcnillo
at one side is pictured. There Is Just
variation enough In the line of the jH
brim to give the modern suggestion. IH
and ono notes that the crown is high IH
and blocked. Trlcorncs aro becom- jH
Ing to young women and middle aged
women, to thin faces and to plump IH
faces tho stout woman always looks
well In a trlcorne, If she selects a IH
model with a wide enough brim It Is
always well If one is large of figure,
to try on a new hat before a full
length mirror, then the proportions mmM
of hat and figure can be carefully 'BMLl
siucucu. in me new itocks aim umui-
mades built In tho artful svcltllnc way WM
that drapes long-lined folds and pleats jH
over foundations carefully propor-
tloncd to over-largo contours, tho mmM
onco clumsy and stout woman looks
graceful and almost lithe; but too '9UUM
often she goes wrong In tho selection
of a hat, selecting one that makes her BumM
face look charming enough but that tLM
Is absurdly out of proportion to her 'BMMM
silhouette. JLW
Dashing: Little Hats For Matinee Day. IH
Two medium slzo hats of dashing IH
enough stylo to escape mediocrity aro IH
of roll brim sailor type. One Is a
piquant little affair of whlto velvet mm
with a sweeping plumo of uncurlod 9WM
.black ostrich drooping llko a curtain JMM
to hide one sldo of the face. Tho
other Is a very exclusive, model from JLM
Lewis, a dainty hat of gray-green VM
brocaded falllo with black plush brim LM
facing and two velvet oranges with jH
gray-green leaves for trimming. Tho
crown Is elongated and seamed
through tho center with a cording
and tho brim rolls a la English walk
ing hat style. Tho plush turban with
peacock feather curling over tho
crown is an Instance of the popular- .
ity of this gay green-blue peacock
plumago.
PARIS CABLES OCTOBER FASHION NEWS
TSk XU SORT OF cable that tho
J Censor d'ocs not bother about is
ti lj the fashion cable, and many
y messages flash over tho wires
between Paris and this country dur
ing the opening weeks of a now sea
son. Hero Is the fashion cable for
October, somewhat condensed, but
otherwise just as Paris sends it:
Princess frocks, launched by Jenny,
and nlready a great success. Jenny
shows also full length laco waistcoats
with formal afternoon costumes.
Doeulllct, Beer and Bulloz (all au
thorities on tallormado styles), advo
cate loose, straight lino Jackets belted
across the front, but unconflncd by
a belt at the back.
Pleating wherover they can bo
used.
Choker collars or low squaro or V
was built a large skull cap with a
circular plcco of hand embroidered
linen for tho top and a wido strip of
laco for tho sides of tho cap. This
skull cap Is tipped back on tho head
by a strip of hand embroidered linen
I
Normandy lace and machine embroid
ery aro combined in this Frcnchy
cap with n turned back frill
for brim and Nattier rib
bon nt tho back.
which pusses over tho brow from car
to ear. A small visor of lace below
this strip lengthens tho flat lino from
brow to back of head. Finally a frill
of laco finishes tho cap, tho laco frill
necks on fall frocks as the wearer
finds most becoming. jH
Bold checks In coats for autumn 3MM
sport and motor wear. LM
Heavy cord trimmings and braid- tLM
ings on fall tailored suits. Velvet J9MM
for very formal wear, broadcloth next
In formality, and serges or mannish 'BMM
worsteds for trotabout tallleurs. Mo- 'BMM
hair frocks with pleated skirts for
day wear, and mohair and worsted LL
combined with satin for afternoon
frocks of formal type.
Buttoned shoes" of moderate height
and with moderate heels for general LW
walking and street wear; buttoned LM
shoes with French heels, or nuttoned mWM
gaiters over dainty high heeled pumps 'BBM
for wear with formal afternoon jH
frocks. wL
I
I
An exqulsito French cap of real Vai LM
lace and hand embroidered linen mWM
with thb new flat lino from LM
forehead to crown that
tills year's cap must
tapering from tho back to the visor
In front Tho bow of plcot ribbon
and a garland of tiny silk flowers add
dainty trimming.
Ono of tho French caps is a straight
strip of laco and embroidery, caught
back like tho headdress of a Red
Cross nurse. Tho other cap is eml- LM
nently Parisian with its frills, stream- MMM
crs and silk roses. WU