Taffieujo f. ' loIroaViry
9 ' Color mCaee,Bell(PockelJ f ; M&nJT Wm tt
and UeYT ScaP- Collar felf:; H BL
J S - Unless Her Spring Suit Is
; Sternly Utilitarian It Is
; 1 j jj Very Gay and Dashing-
!i j Short Coats, SlimSkirts,
j PocketsBanished,allfor
I , j Conservation of Wool-
I I 1 Variety In Skirts.
j'l j I SHBT MAY SAY what thoy like,
J over In Paris, about the alto-
1 1 j gather desirable qualities of the
, r fc top coat; but no American worn-
' 1 ', cn feels she is rightly outfitted to fit
( 1 the spring picture unless she may sally
, . ' forth in a fresh, crisp, trim little
. i spring suit. The material thereof does
' j not much matter tho spring style's
J tho thing!
I And French couturiers aro very will-
I Ing to please tho American wearers o
their clothes. If America domands
tailored suits, a-plenty will be sent
,' over; In fact, they, have already been
J ' sent over. This minute they aro on
J f display in the shop windows and in
(1. : I the costume departments of tho big
, v stores, suits to stir tho feminlno heart
j with their daintiness and their sprlng-
l likeness after a long winter of cold
1 and storm.
' ; 1 War-Timo Fashions Based On No
. ; Style-Era.
j For tho first tlmo in years tho new
, j modes owo no inspiration to any par
I'u. 1 "
I' I TTWWAY BACK ln tho ages of
'I ILM Decomber, when pounds of
WlW sugar woro given as valuable
, Jr H bridge prizes, and housewives
. going homo from market tucked the
Precious package of sugar Into tho bag
j of Potatoes, so that an observant
I neighbor with whom one passed tho
I t,me of day might not bo tempted to
.1 11 drP in later on borrowing Intent, a
1. i rumor began to goxround that salt
j' J would be tho next household supply
' ' ' ln which there would bo a shortage.
I? I But fortunately perhaps because
nobody felt panicky about such a
'! ji humdrum thing as salt, scarcely to be
fj , SI compared with the luxury of sugar as
! ; , 31 a seasoning! people did not rush to
IK 1 stock up with salt and hoajd it away
'f jj ln ton pound bags against tho threat-
I 1 cned shortage. And so the shortage
jji I nover took place at all. As a matter
J J T of fact", however, a salt famlno would
ili I I o a serious matter, far moro serious
ih I f tuan a sugar famine. Salt la one of
jf j j tho things nobody thinks anything
fr ' j t about until ho misses it. Salt is like
rV : tho very air wo breathe, part of our
i;h; J dally existence. One can live, not very
jjMj I happily perhaps, but still with mod-
A S erato comfort, without sugar ln ono's
I tea; but beefsteak and potatoes wlth-
Ijj f J 4 out salt well, Just try It for a week
I'll I I and sco1
At J j Chloride of sodium, or Just plain
i J 1 salt as you and 1 know it, i3 essential I
tlcular period of history. Tho main
thought in designing them was to. use
as little material as possible, and tho
new fashions aro specially designed
fashions, evolved from an ideal of
stern necessity. Simplicity and con
servation arc tho koynotcs of tho now
modes and though tho spring suits arc
strictly original creations, they aro
creations that fit in with tho require
ments of tho hour.
Tho simplicity and ono docs not
liko to call it sklmpincss but that is
tho word! of the spring suits do not
mike them any less attractive. Somo
of them aro actually made of tho pre
scribed four yards of fabric that the
French Government insists upon; but
a Paris couturier would nover be
balked by four yards of fabric Ho
would simply cut his garment accord
ing to his cloth and tho result would
bo enchanting. For one thing, tho
to tho life of all higher "animals. Salt
exists ln all parts of tho body; It is
I moro abundant in tho blood than any
: other ingredient except water. It Is
taken into tho body as a natural food
and also a3 a condiment to Increase
rolish for food. As a food, its purpose
is to replenish certain tissues and to
aid in the transference and absorp
tion of combustlblo nutrients. Sugar
provides heat and force but one can
Hvo without It, gaining heat and force
from other foods fats, for example,
and starch; but without salt ono would
be badly off Indeed.
For one thing, salt supplies the acid
of the gastric Juices that help digest
food. We should very soon becomo
actually ill if salt were taken from
our diet. Tho Dutch, ages ago, used
to condemn criminals to a saltlcss diet
and tho unfortunates suffered terriblo
physical pains, which mercifully, soon
ended in death.
An adult person, requires from a
fourth of an ounce to half an ounce
of salt in twonty-four hours. Somo
people take less than this; others con
siderably more. And not seldom tho
tasto for salt grows so execssivo that
a good deal more of the mineral than
is' beneficial is taken dally into tho
system. Indeed, there aro said to bo
"salt drunkards" Just as thero aro al
I cohol drunkards. Unless salt and
I moro salt is added to every cdiblo
new suits make women look slimmer;
for another thing they make her look
younger. It is not likely that anyono
will bo found to object to these qual
ities! Ono way of saving material is
to do away with pockets; another way
is to add a waistcoat of contrasting
stuff so that less cloth is needed for
.tho coat fronts. A most clover meth
od is tho one-sided fastening with a
slnglo slanting rever instead of tho
conventional two-rever Idea that nat
urally domands more matorlal.
Short, Jaunty Jackets.
Of course, when Fashion found
fabric must bo conserved, sho attacked
Immediately the superfluous ength of
tho jacket. Long Jackets aro an ab
surd waste of material ln spring and
summer tlmo, and the shorter the
jacket, the more material for instance
for smart collar and cuffs. For
when you cut a whole suit out of
111 Ioj jTojr&el 6o JteZ
consumed meals becomo flat, stale and
unprofitable, and dlnlng-out becomes
a misery because nothing is salted to
taste to tho perverted "salt tasto"
that Is. At every boarding houso tablo
there is always ono individual who is
continually asking for and corralling
the salt shaker, and such a one
dinlng-out at a homo table will ask
for salt whether or not It is on tho
tablo, and whether or not the hostess,
who very likely considers tho request
an insult to her properly cooked
viands, Is offended or not.
Tho over-user of salt is usually an
individual who has becomo enamored
of highly seasoned foods and condi
ments .of all sorts. People who liko
very simple food rarely care much for
salt, beyond a necessary dash of sea
soning, and children whoso tastes aro
still extremely simple ln food, seldom
know whether edibles aro salted or
not. Not so tho epicure, who will
instantly detect any suggestion of flat
noss in soup, vegetable, salad or oven
breadstufts, and passionately demand
tho salt-shaker.
Tho difference between a good cook
and an Indifferent ono is that the good
cook nover forgets to season properly,
while the Indifferent cook over-seasons
or under-seasons In hit-or-miss fash
Ion. And it Is rather a nice knack to
got Just exactly the right amount of
salt and no more, into every article
DisLiTLcUy 1918 "is
be Jackjst of Plain
Color5 OveT a
of IToulaDd
four yards you have to do somo con
sidering. Tho shortest jacket possiblo
for a tallor-mado is tho oton Jacket,
and the new suits with theso graceful
little coats prove what a pity it was
that tho eton was ever dropped from
favor. Eton suits aro of serge, of
gabardine, of silk poplin, of Shantung,
of khakl-kool and of mohair. Ono
does not see tho etons in suits of
homo spun or other rough-and-ready
stuffs. Pictured Is an adorable little
suit of white serge with a straight,
loose oton jacket buttoned down (.he
front and opening from a turned down,
eton collar. This collar, tho exag
gerated cuffs and long swinging panels
or "ties" on the coat are of whito silk
embroidered ln shades of tan. The
whito silk hat Is trimmed with dull
gold lace and tan silk stockings aro
accompanied by white pumps a vory
pretty color scheme. And the tan silk
parasol must not bo passed over!
Gris Mode The New Gray Shade.
It may turn out a "gray spring"
after all; but ono refers to costumes
and not atmosphere. Gray is strlk-
i
What Oil Is To Smooth-Running Ma
chinery, Salt Is To The Flat
Iron's Polishing Base.
of food proparcd and served. Only a
born cook never makes a mistake' in
this respect.
There are so many things that a
pinch of salt makes ever so much
moro delicious not enough salt to be
tray its presonco by the tasto, but Just
I lngly smart and th,o best shndo Is grls
mode, tho new French gray that has
a roso tinge; it Is much more becom
ing than- blue or slate gray and looks
well on both blondo and brunette
types. Of grls modo wool jersey Is
one of the suits illustrated, and a deep
roso colored parasol and pink straw
hat with rose chenille balls Intensify
the pinkish cast of the costume. With
tho gray wool jorscy white satin is
used with striking smartness ln pip
ings and' facings. The scarf collar
with fringed ends that toss over the
shoulder Is particularly new and mod
ish. The pink straw hat Is trimmed
with white satin and rose chenille and
whito footwear accompanies the gray
and white tallleur.
Coats Of Contrasting Fabric.
A great many of tho now suits have
coats that seem not intended for them
at all until you notice that tho skirt
material is Incorporated in tho coat
to put an end to any doubt about
tho matter. Callot has a particularly
smart suit of this type: It is of pale
gray silk" poplin and black and whito
plaid silk. Tho poplin skirt has a
center section horizontal of tho
black and' white plaid, sot ln with tiny
pipings of palo yellow. And all the
seams of the Jacket arc piped ln yellow
also! This jacket comes only to the
waistline at the front, but It has hip
length sides and back In poplum effect,
a narrow belt passing all around at
tho waistline except at the center front
where the bolt goes under tho Jacket
The front fastens obliquely and the
coat has a tall, turnover Incroyable
collar of black and whito plaid silk
edged with palo yellow silk. The cuffs
which como almost to the elbow aro
In tho same effect Tho costume pic
tured, which shows a plain jacket and
plaid skirt, Is in the now onion brown
shade combined with cream white.
Tho jacket Is of onion brown satin,
the skirt, collar, cuffs and waistcoat of
onion brown and cream foulard. The
waistcoat which comes below the belt
overlaps an inner waistcoat of cream
satin which extends up to the collar.
This maid wears a hat of brown and
whito foulard trimmed with festoons
of little brown ribbon bows; her stock-
enough to givo zest to Its environment.
For Instance, 'a dash of salt gives a
wonderful flavor to a pot of coffee.
You do not guess tho salt, but you are
likely to remark on tho excellcuco of
the coffee. Salt Just a dusting on
grapefruit Is much more delicious
than sugar and brings out bottor the
flavor of tho fruit, but you must cul
tivate tho taste, as you teach yourself
to prefer vlnegar-and-salt instead of
vlnegar-and-sugar, on lettuce.
A pinch of salt will mako tho whites
of eggs beat up more quickly and
lightly salt sprinkled on hot toast
will supply a flavor that will keep
the toast-consumer from piling on but
ter. Salt should never bo forgotten
when you cook oatmeal or other
cereals. The flat tastclessness result
ing from its -omission may not bo
remedied by sprinkling on salt at tho
table; tho condiment must go ln
during the cooking process. It is
Important too. to rcmcmbor to salt
vegetables while cooking. Have a
bowl of salt and a small spoon al
ways on tho kitchen tablo and add salt
to potatoes, beans, peas, corn and oth
er vegetables when thoy are put into
boiling water. Do not, I beg of you,
forgot salt when mixing tho pio crust
just a tiny bit is needed here, not a
quarter of a saltspoonful, but the lack
of It will leave your pie crust dull and
uninteresting from a gastronomic
standpoint. Muffins, biscuit and all
hot breads should havo their pinch of
salt; so should puddings even boiled
custard should havo a dash of salt
whon sugar and eggs aro beaten to
gother. Salt should not be added to
GiPayYbol Jersey i&M l
yrith.'WIiite iIK. . Jk WL u
racing- Kat anad Amm iP I SS
Toot-wear mtrat yf0lSSKg " T'.j - ffij
lngs aro brdwn silk, her pumps, brown
and cream kid.
Scarf Collars Give Sport Suits Much
. Grace.
Very wide, crush belts, and long,
scarf collars which may be tossed over
the shoulder, make tho now sport suits
very graceful: an Instance, the white
khakl-kool suit In the picture with
trimmings of Jade green khakl-kool.
Thero aro pockets on this jacket as
you see, but they have been econom
ically made out of scraps of the ma
terial and aro sot on in sagging effect,
tholr limpness harmonizing with the
soft crush belt and crushed scarf col
lar. The belt crosses In front and
fastens at cither side with big pearl
buttons. Thero arc buttons also on the
pockets, but none on the coat Itself.
Tho sport hat which matches this
pretty costume Is of tan straw and
white silk with a jade green band on
which arc tiny bunches of green leaves
and pink rosebuds. The summer girl
this year will have two sport suits;
one of whito or tinted khakl-kool or
silk jersey; something like tho model
just described, and another, sturdier
suit -of mixed homespun for rough-and-ready
wear. These utility suits
of home spun are extremely smart and
they aro exceedingly simple in style,
their good lines and knowing cut giv
ing them distinction. Favorite models
for Southern wear have had loose box
coats falling Just below the hip with
mannish collar and lapels and narrow
turned back cuffs buttoned at tho
outer side. Usually a coat lining of
old gold or onion colored silk adds Its
note of modishness.
For sport wear also, and for general
summer wear, arc tho velvet jackets
which look well with all skirts, wheth
er of dark or light material. One of
these coats. Is Illustrated, a model ln
soups during tho cooking but Just be
fore the soup goes to tho table; and
it should bo added with utmost dis
crimination, for nothing Is so fre
quently over-salted as soup.
Salt is a prlmo helper in the house
hold also. It keeps tho flat irons
smooth and slippery: it brightens car
pets when sprinkled on before tho
sweeping; it takes out wine and berry
stains from table linen if poured im
mediately, over the spot. It "sets" tho
color in bluo glnghfms and llnons,
and (with vinegar) In pink or green
fabrics.
A QUAINT SUPPORT FOR THE
BIRD CAGE.
CHE NEWEST SORT of hook or
wall-brackot for a hanging bird
cago or flower pot is ln tho
shape of a flying crano, and Is
about eight inches long and made of
white motal. Tho graceful crano seems
to bo flying, with whito wings out
spread and his bent head and nock
form the hook. His long legs project
ing backward fasten him securely to a
nail in wall or window casing, but so
beautiful is tho poise of tho bird that
ho seoms to be floating on his wings,
ready to fly away with whatever. Is
hung about his neck.
A PHONO GRAPH FOR THE
NURSERY.
ESPECIAL PHONOGRAPH for
the children's play room has
been put on tho market. It
will take cither a ten-Inch rcc-
ord or any of the smaller records, and
besides having a really excellent tono
, o
: MAN
golden brown velvet with the almcfi fpjre
Inevitable, scarf collar tipped with fcsll : jM 3
tassels and some white pearl butti ,
to'glve definition to the slant of til forma
wldo bclL jrin!
Many Novel SUirts.
Not all suit skirts are straight 1 ;
plain. The new short coats give
portunlty for elaboration of the .
and designers have taken advantaged ;
this opportunity. . There aro the far 1 V"-
top skirts, pleated Into the belt, ri'-i , L
tho pleats stitched closely near Hi - ggv
hem so that tho skirt Is narrovr at IS
foot but bulges above. With thefton
and cutaway Jackets v.-rapped dn?- ' .
erics look woll In the skirt and iose- YOUN
times a skirt has swinging panels lif ' Handy
with silk like the coat-llnlng. .
whatever tho style of the skirt, l: U -----
always narrow at the hem. STEXC
fTtltn,
"CLOWN" GRAB-BAGS DELIGHT CROC
j THE YOUNGSTnitS. (
CHE JOLL1EST KIND of I. fiXT
bag for the children's party U jfa
a big whito cotton cloth tc?
shaped to look like a clown, t-t UPEF
voluminous garment of "Panta.oM , rman
being gathered into two suppose.- wrxa
ankles from which project niasciw-'
shoes, stuffed artistically so that Uej j
havo a life-like look. The full sJeercs
of "Pantaloon's" costume arc a.
gathered at the wrist over stuffed w
gloves. The head Is merely tho t t
of the bag drawn In by a draffs 1
below a stuffing of cotton and ,
clown's distorted, grlnnlns to "'1 ,
may bo daubed on by even an low
pert hand. Tho bag Is filled ;
tissue-wrapped gifts for tho little fow
and when the draw-string at the ; KUG aD
Is loosened the presents will co? j
tumbling out of tho oponln? fc ;
"Pantaloon's" garment Is buttoned , pw
hooked up tho back. 1 j
It Is a most ornamental object.
outside being painted In bright & ur
cheerful hues with decorations w -appeal
to tho heart of childhood. (
costs well under fifteen dollars aw ( mjo rot
will be fancied for summer campf J Jell
bungalows as well as for nurs.vr'-4 MUtel,
- v- -
IP- jpi; v 5
m m$kh' 4l-
MffillPt "Si f t$
r mmhm m
1 III
Sprinkled Delicately Sjgf ( S?2
fruit Acquires Its ilost EpJ fifra.
Flavor.
1