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I ! -"LA T E.S iTiJ : PA R 1 5l; F !a-"S: HI 6 NT I
H yy '- .. p.ai mn .him HI BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. fevwtis. H n " HE winter outfit has Rcarccly H 9 been completed in fact, is often H I not completed when every dc- H part men t store, every establish- H nie.nt where are sold gowns, hats H and all the minor details of dress, H ) -blossoms forth with i.ummcr fashions, H materials and models intended for thc H Southern holiday, now a most important H . part of fashionable life H J Fashions for tho Riviera furnish models, H for Palrn Bench and all the American H t Southern resorts, and with Enow falling H i and the thermometer away below freezing H j point, women arc busy .selecting the thin- H nest of fabrics and the filmiest of laces, not H to pcak of silk, tulle, lingerie and straw Hp-1 hats. I H ' In olden days tho ; rudent housewife) H had her spring and summer dressmaking H attended to in the winter, so thnt there H i should be no unseemly haste and consc- H ) quent waste in making up the summer H ' wardrobe at the last moment, when the) H j' services of the best dressmakers, morei5 H 1 often the -visiting seamstress, were at n H premium. This forchandedness was not H In conscqucnco of a winter holiday trip, H I however, and consequently there were not ' H the same facilities offered to secure de H I ' hlgns and fabrics such ns-arc now within, T reach of every one. i The fashionable woman who to-day is sc- Hjf ' lectins or has selected her wardrobe for H' the South has been able to chooso from a 1 great variety of gowns and materials, but Hl ), the woman who plans far in' advance HP knows by experience that sb also can now Hi j e ecu re and have made her spring and sum- H meT gowns to far belter advantage than H ' when it was not obligatorily fashionable HL to seek a warmer clinic during the cold B weather. H Craze for Taffeta Silk. H , And what aro the advance styles? Will Bl i there be any distinct innovations? As H j yet there is nothing especially distinctive. Hh , There is a craze for taffeta silk and lace, H but theso points have already been noted. H The newest evening gowns for the winter Hj I resorts nrc of Pompadour design n silk, H and the Poinpndour model of gown is nnt H j rurally to be looked for. The waistline, in H i consequence, is lower and the waist mens- H urc smaller. H , Pleated and gathered skirts and all the H different picturesque effects otjtbc Pompa- H dour gowns arc marked. Also, tlie changc- H able taffetas nrc in great demand, with H the fascinating sheen thnt is n marked H characteristic in the odd shaded greens and HJ grays and aehes of roses. For evening H gowns the figured designs are the newest, H bnt as yet the afternoon and street gowns H are smartest in the plain silks. t H The foulard and Jndl.i lk gowns are H positively essential to comfort wherever' H "' '"' Olotb and YclTct Gown. H and' whenever tho weather is warm, and H Uj well dressed woman attempts life with- H ont at least one or two of them. Figured H foulards this year aro to be had in quite H novel designs, with many of the old stand- H bys, Guch as. the different size polka dots HJ and the shepherd plaid effect also In dif- H ferent sized checks, H A most curiously involved model has np- H parently met with approval for the now H foulards, but as it will not bo generally H becoming it is safe to assert that it will be H considerably modified before the summer H (according to the almanac) is here. This H model has quite a lot of material in the H , skirt, but the material is gathered into H ! flounces or ruffles around the foot to give H ' the effect of it being quite scant. The H waist is in surplice folds draped across H back and front, and there is a high belt H of the same material. Worn by a slight, H '( young girl this gown may be, smart and H becoming; it is not to be carelessly selected H ; for an older woman Inclined to be large. H Voile dc hoIc and nil transparent -ma- H ; -utcrlals will ngain be fashionable, but for B ' ' uhe moment the silks of all kinds arc the H i ijumrteat. Combining the thiu matrjultj Embroidered Blue Liberty I Satin Gown. J satisfactory thnt their popularity cannot be questioned. Flowprcd silks and flowered muslins are fashionable. In many instances the de igns seem even belter suited to wall paper (ban to drccs materials, but when smartly made up the results are most satisfactory and there is a charming old fashioned picturesquencss that is Irresistibly attract ive. The kirts are trimmed with raffles edged with lace, and the fichus are also finished with lace edged rulllcs. Flow ered chiffons and nets arc also mndo up on tho same lines, and all the materials for the summer arc of the 6arac designs and pattern. White gowns of all sorts and descrip tions arc now to be seen. The white serge jjnntl white linen coat and skfrt costumes j are first and foremost in the now outfit. J While the conventional tnilor made cos tume, or coaland skirt, in serge, home ,pun, Scotch tweed, heavy and light weight ( linen, is most useful, there are this year many coat and skirt costumes of a more fanciful description. Jiotli short and long coats are in style, plain .vid trimmed with heavy lace and embroidery. Those can bo .o simple and severe that they are only suitable for the morning, or so elaborate (that thoy are suitable for wear for lunch teon or afternoon reception. J Spring and Summer Hats. Most charmingly incongruous docs a straw tint appear at this time of yar, but every woman who intends going South realizes that a becoming straw hat Is most essential to her. peace of jnind and inciden tally to her comfort. I The incwst models are quite novel. There are wide brim3, but o flexible that they can be bent Into the most becoming lines, caught up at one side, bent down at the other, bent back from the face or bent for wardwhichever is tho most becoming. There ard snuill hats in toque and turban .shape, but tho larger shapes are the most popular. The crowns are smaller, con sequpnlly more becoming, and the head sue is fartnore carefully selected. I SWHHBwteflHP SL 'ii$S pSl1'-' ...Vd;ri 3S5X.Wf " $rX '.k , ' t ' rr &?' "Villi - xr - ,Y7J White Tulle Gown, with Gold Embroidery, of figured design, preferably the Pompa dour, with taffeta silk is one of the new fashions. This gives good results and is delightfully novel. For general utility wear the plain voile de mignons, both in dark and light shades and made up over India or foulard silk, have been proved so desirable that they will continue to be fashionable. For travelling gowns and for the occasional cool days they arc so ubroiUctc4 ilwlla Goto. ( Trimmings of flowers, fcathora, and, smartest of all at the moment, bows of taf feta ribbon decorate the different shrapes. Foulard' and Sstln down. Italian straw and the black finq straws.ajc I the smartest, but there are also colored straw braids that arehdorublu in shade i 'and hapo and, worn 'with tho flowered ' muslin's and silks, they will -bu most at- ' I tractive. ' j I The inllucncc of tlio successful pbysj' - II . ' '","" ' "":'. 112. t n-pllloscr- L'xclUilvo c-vuxiikbt. 1012. N?v York nr.U Cuiasttr. f fej Black and White Mousse line dc Soic Gown. Pink and Wmte Pompadour Silk Gown. r S ipon dress is toc noted more than ever in ihe newest fashions in millinery, -and very effort is being made to bring into fa- Jjj 0 V;.:.":: Embroidered Chiffon Gown. vor the silk and lace bonnets and cap's. This is a fashion thatcau be most fascinat ing or most hideous, everything depciilJlng upon how it is. worked out. "" Taffeta silk ;hnts nro fashionable and arc in nJl eoloiy." The fashion is not que that is destined'to have a long life, but for the moment itTs popular. The shapes are small and very". !smart and ate worii in place of the velvet or satin hat. All colors aro to be'secn , Blue and a new shade of re'd and black are the "smartest, and the best results ate obtained when hcre Is-a trimming of vel vet ribbdnfe -Satin also is used for trim ming, butJs.Yiotjuo effective as the velvet; while somu 'milliners obtain th.e best c'C; fccLs nsingonjy Hie taffeta. "v .; Smart' Shoes and Stockings. The greatest attention is paid to ibe shoes and, stockings to be wornvith the gowns 'ofjie Southern resort outfit. Stocking's arid slippor3 or low shjes must match in'-jColor and be the same as the color, of .the EOWt or of the trim minss of the gown. Suedo shoes or slippers nrc smart, and while too largS aiiti conspicuous a buckle is not smnrt, there was never a time when shoe buckles were in such demand. Bui they must be of fine workmanship and nol exaggeratedly large. Brown shoes and stockings and black shoes and stockings are always smart if well cut, and this sea son tho cut Is most becoming to the foot, for the heel, while high, is not exaggerated ly so and is well placed, but not so fnr for ward aa to throw the shoo and wearer both out of balance. The finest of silk stockings, plain rather than the more conspicucusly embroidered, arc the smartest, and the more expensive the shoe or slipper the plainer it is-slinply following out the rule that it is more fash ionable -now to hnvb everything of the - a- t M : - TatfcU and Sitln-Coitome. simplest-and most expensive rather, than congpiCUOl3 andlcss costly. v'i. ; THE "FASHIONABLE FAN TIIAT favorite implement of coquetryl I the fap is now restored to its former! placo of importance as a necessary and picturesque adjunct of the evening cos lume. In the opera box or at'the'fashion ablc dnncO'thc fair Is most in 'order, and women who know the. value" of all such accessories. aro nowspcnding much thought in addition to the necessary finan-. . cial expenditure on securing precisely the" . right sort of fan to set off each costume. I More picturesque perhups than any of -Jpr ' - l'alo Qreca Sitln Gaiva, '- the other fans which aro now In favor la the large ostrich fan, In black or white, which is so striking an addition to the evening costume. A tall brunctle wearing a long, slimpsy white gown of 'satin and spangles nndcarrying a huge black ostrich! fan is as effective a figure as. one might desire to see, and, be it noted, tho fan, likc everything else which tho fashion able woman selects for her personal n?e, is chosen with a very disUnct'ldca'of what is becoming to her as wcll;r'as -what Is I' suited to her costume. 4 .-. The black ostrich fans1 h.rro ''.sticks of ebony and tortoise shell, anil the white ' ones are mounted on sticks of- ivory, mothor of pearl and amber, v Some of the sticks are set with jewels or embellished with gold and colored ennmel, hut many of the fans considered most dcsirable',havfc the plain sticks, with the moqogram of 'the owner wronght in diamonds running. down ; one of the frames. More expensive than the ostrich fans, n)th"bugh not so 'effective, arc those of 05-1, , qulsite and most valuable lace mounted n on gold and ivory, sticks, the. latter beirijj-si embellished with, gold and Jewels." These!?' fans may be as valuable as one likes, 'fori-111 the gold sticks carved by hand Qay-'rep- c . resent tho work of superior artists both J te : in design and execution. j iran Jewels of value may be used in the set- 'Jn tiug. and tho lace itself ""may be of the && mo-st precious quality, for not even in a '1! cabinet may a rare cxamplo of the Lice- . . maker's art bo shown to better advantage L?2rj than in one of these fans. ' ipS The French painted fans arc also ex- u trcmqly fashionable, and here also the ' S$ person of extravagant tasto who has also ajo.ve for the beautiful may expend what- Ml ever sum she cares to upon these acces30- gj ,ries,of the toilette, which often arc at tie iia same time works of art of a high order. ' "$; The'dcsigns of these French fans, whether ; painted on heavy dull silk or vellum, arc 3fe much like those used by the great French ? painter who first elevated tho decoration $? of the fan to a position among the fine ' ,nrls. Gold and 6pongIes aro worked into JS1-' ;the design, or rather arc used to frame ? Sj the various motifs of the design, nnd the Sj", sticks of tho fan, of gold or Ivory, are S cafcve'd. or embellished with enamel or en- Sjfa .crusted with jewels. ' ' lj '. .There arc aho black g3uze fans trimmed afc withhold spangles or embroidery or with ? rather heavy trimming of braid, and theso W' arc most effectivo with certain costumes. ' fjti ' Itair Spangled Dinclns Fri. i "? ' " ''it !;A feather fan which has also met with ' ! :mucli favor is made of eagles' feathers, t supposedly, although it is barely possible IgJH hat the plumage of less regal birds enters 3a into its composition. This fan is mounted !Br pn amber or lortoisc shell and is extremely iw$l effective M'?-J 1 '