I ! -"LA T E.S iTiJ : PA R 1 5l; F !a-"S: HI 6 NT I
H yy '- .. p.ai mn .him
HI BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. fevwtis.
H n " HE winter outfit has Rcarccly
H 9 been completed in fact, is often
H I not completed when every dc-
H part men t store, every establish-
H nie.nt where are sold gowns, hats
H and all the minor details of dress,
H ) -blossoms forth with i.ummcr fashions,
H materials and models intended for thc
H Southern holiday, now a most important
H . part of fashionable life
H J Fashions for tho Riviera furnish models,
H for Palrn Bench and all the American
H t Southern resorts, and with Enow falling
H i and the thermometer away below freezing
H j point, women arc busy .selecting the thin-
H nest of fabrics and the filmiest of laces, not
H to pcak of silk, tulle, lingerie and straw
Hp-1 hats. I
H ' In olden days tho ; rudent housewife)
H had her spring and summer dressmaking
H attended to in the winter, so thnt there
H i should be no unseemly haste and consc-
H ) quent waste in making up the summer
H ' wardrobe at the last moment, when the)
H j' services of the best dressmakers, morei5
H 1 often the -visiting seamstress, were at n
H premium. This forchandedness was not
H In conscqucnco of a winter holiday trip,
H I however, and consequently there were not '
H the same facilities offered to secure de
H I ' hlgns and fabrics such ns-arc now within,
T reach of every one.
i The fashionable woman who to-day is sc-
Hjf ' lectins or has selected her wardrobe for
H' the South has been able to chooso from a
1 great variety of gowns and materials, but
Hl ), the woman who plans far in' advance
HP knows by experience that sb also can now
Hi j e ecu re and have made her spring and sum-
H meT gowns to far belter advantage than
H ' when it was not obligatorily fashionable
HL to seek a warmer clinic during the cold
H Craze for Taffeta Silk.
H , And what aro the advance styles? Will
Bl i there be any distinct innovations? As
H j yet there is nothing especially distinctive.
Hh , There is a craze for taffeta silk and lace,
H but theso points have already been noted.
H The newest evening gowns for the winter
Hj I resorts nrc of Pompadour design n silk,
H and the Poinpndour model of gown is nnt
H j rurally to be looked for. The waistline, in
H i consequence, is lower and the waist mens-
H urc smaller.
H , Pleated and gathered skirts and all the
H different picturesque effects otjtbc Pompa-
H dour gowns arc marked. Also, tlie changc-
H able taffetas nrc in great demand, with
H the fascinating sheen thnt is n marked
H characteristic in the odd shaded greens and
HJ grays and aehes of roses. For evening
H gowns the figured designs are the newest,
H bnt as yet the afternoon and street gowns
H are smartest in the plain silks. t
H The foulard and Jndl.i lk gowns are
H positively essential to comfort wherever'
H "' '"' Olotb and YclTct Gown.
H and' whenever tho weather is warm, and
H Uj well dressed woman attempts life with-
H ont at least one or two of them. Figured
H foulards this year aro to be had in quite
H novel designs, with many of the old stand-
H bys, Guch as. the different size polka dots
HJ and the shepherd plaid effect also In dif-
H ferent sized checks,
H A most curiously involved model has np-
H parently met with approval for the now
H foulards, but as it will not bo generally
H becoming it is safe to assert that it will be
H considerably modified before the summer
H (according to the almanac) is here. This
H model has quite a lot of material in the
H , skirt, but the material is gathered into
H ! flounces or ruffles around the foot to give
H ' the effect of it being quite scant. The
H waist is in surplice folds draped across
H back and front, and there is a high belt
H of the same material. Worn by a slight,
H '( young girl this gown may be, smart and
H becoming; it is not to be carelessly selected
H ; for an older woman Inclined to be large.
H Voile dc hoIc and nil transparent -ma-
H ; -utcrlals will ngain be fashionable, but for
B ' ' uhe moment the silks of all kinds arc the
H i ijumrteat. Combining the thiu matrjultj
Embroidered Blue Liberty I
Satin Gown. J
satisfactory thnt their popularity cannot
Flowprcd silks and flowered muslins are
fashionable. In many instances the de
igns seem even belter suited to wall paper
(ban to drccs materials, but when smartly
made up the results are most satisfactory
and there is a charming old fashioned
picturesquencss that is Irresistibly attract
ive. The kirts are trimmed with raffles
edged with lace, and the fichus are also
finished with lace edged rulllcs. Flow
ered chiffons and nets arc also mndo up
on tho same lines, and all the materials
for the summer arc of the 6arac designs
White gowns of all sorts and descrip
tions arc now to be seen. The white serge
jjnntl white linen coat and skfrt costumes
j are first and foremost in the now outfit.
J While the conventional tnilor made cos
tume, or coaland skirt, in serge, home
,pun, Scotch tweed, heavy and light weight
( linen, is most useful, there are this year
many coat and skirt costumes of a more
fanciful description. Jiotli short and long
coats are in style, plain .vid trimmed with
heavy lace and embroidery. Those can bo
.o simple and severe that they are only
suitable for the morning, or so elaborate
(that thoy are suitable for wear for lunch
teon or afternoon reception.
J Spring and Summer Hats.
Most charmingly incongruous docs a
straw tint appear at this time of yar, but
every woman who intends going South
realizes that a becoming straw hat Is most
essential to her. peace of jnind and inciden
tally to her comfort.
I The incwst models are quite novel. There
are wide brim3, but o flexible that they
can be bent Into the most becoming lines,
caught up at one side, bent down at the
other, bent back from the face or bent for
wardwhichever is tho most becoming.
There ard snuill hats in toque and turban
.shape, but tho larger shapes are the most
popular. The crowns are smaller, con
sequpnlly more becoming, and the head
sue is fartnore carefully selected.
SL 'ii$S pSl1'-' ...Vd;ri
3S5X.Wf " $rX '.k , ' t ' rr &?' "Villi
- xr - ,Y7J
White Tulle Gown, with Gold Embroidery,
of figured design, preferably the Pompa
dour, with taffeta silk is one of the new
fashions. This gives good results and is
delightfully novel. For general utility
wear the plain voile de mignons, both in
dark and light shades and made up over
India or foulard silk, have been proved so
desirable that they will continue to be
fashionable. For travelling gowns and
for the occasional cool days they arc so
ubroiUctc4 ilwlla Goto. (
Trimmings of flowers, fcathora, and,
smartest of all at the moment, bows of taf
feta ribbon decorate the different shrapes.
Foulard' and Sstln down.
Italian straw and the black finq straws.ajc I
the smartest, but there are also colored
straw braids that arehdorublu in shade i
'and hapo and, worn 'with tho flowered '
muslin's and silks, they will -bu most at- '
I tractive. ' j
I The inllucncc of tlio successful pbysj'
. ' '","" ' "":'. 112. t n-pllloscr- L'xclUilvo c-vuxiikbt. 1012. N?v York nr.U Cuiasttr. f fej
Black and White Mousse line dc Soic Gown. Pink and Wmte Pompadour Silk Gown. r S
ipon dress is toc noted more than ever in
ihe newest fashions in millinery, -and
very effort is being made to bring into fa-
Embroidered Chiffon Gown.
vor the silk and lace bonnets and cap's.
This is a fashion thatcau be most fascinat
ing or most hideous, everything depciilJlng
upon how it is. worked out. ""
Taffeta silk ;hnts nro fashionable and
arc in nJl eoloiy." The fashion is not que
that is destined'to have a long life, but for
the moment itTs popular. The shapes are
small and very". !smart and ate worii in
place of the velvet or satin hat. All colors
aro to be'secn ,
Blue and a new shade of re'd and black
are the "smartest, and the best results ate
obtained when hcre Is-a trimming of vel
vet ribbdnfe -Satin also is used for trim
ming, butJs.Yiotjuo effective as the velvet;
while somu 'milliners obtain th.e best c'C;
fccLs nsingonjy Hie taffeta. "v .;
Smart' Shoes and Stockings.
The greatest attention is paid to ibe
shoes and, stockings to be wornvith the
gowns 'ofjie Southern resort outfit.
Stocking's arid slippor3 or low shjes must
match in'-jColor and be the same as
the color, of .the EOWt or of the trim
minss of the gown.
Suedo shoes or slippers nrc smart, and
while too largS aiiti conspicuous a buckle is
not smnrt, there was never a time when
shoe buckles were in such demand. Bui
they must be of fine workmanship and nol
exaggeratedly large. Brown shoes and
stockings and black shoes and stockings
are always smart if well cut, and this sea
son tho cut Is most becoming to the foot,
for the heel, while high, is not exaggerated
ly so and is well placed, but not so fnr for
ward aa to throw the shoo and wearer
both out of balance.
The finest of silk stockings, plain rather
than the more conspicucusly embroidered,
arc the smartest, and the more expensive
the shoe or slipper the plainer it is-slinply
following out the rule that it is more fash
ionable -now to hnvb everything of the
- a- t M : -
TatfcU and Sitln-Coitome.
simplest-and most expensive rather, than
congpiCUOl3 andlcss costly.
; THE "FASHIONABLE FAN
TIIAT favorite implement of coquetryl
I the fap is now restored to its former!
placo of importance as a necessary
and picturesque adjunct of the evening cos
lume. In the opera box or at'the'fashion
ablc dnncO'thc fair Is most in 'order, and
women who know the. value" of all such
accessories. aro nowspcnding much
thought in addition to the necessary finan-.
. cial expenditure on securing precisely the"
. right sort of fan to set off each costume.
I More picturesque perhups than any of
-Jpr ' -
l'alo Qreca Sitln Gaiva, '-
the other fans which aro now In favor la
the large ostrich fan, In black or white,
which is so striking an addition to the
evening costume. A tall brunctle wearing a
long, slimpsy white gown of 'satin and
spangles nndcarrying a huge black ostrich!
fan is as effective a figure as. one might
desire to see, and, be it noted, tho fan,
likc everything else which tho fashion
able woman selects for her personal n?e,
is chosen with a very disUnct'ldca'of what
is becoming to her as wcll;r'as -what Is
I' suited to her costume. 4 .-.
The black ostrich fans1 h.rro ''.sticks of
ebony and tortoise shell, anil the white '
ones are mounted on sticks of- ivory,
mothor of pearl and amber, v Some of the
sticks are set with jewels or embellished
with gold and colored ennmel, hut many
of the fans considered most dcsirable',havfc
the plain sticks, with the moqogram of 'the
owner wronght in diamonds running. down ;
one of the frames.
More expensive than the ostrich fans,
n)th"bugh not so 'effective, arc those of 05-1, ,
qulsite and most valuable lace mounted n
on gold and ivory, sticks, the. latter beirijj-si
embellished with, gold and Jewels." These!?'
fans may be as valuable as one likes, 'fori-111
the gold sticks carved by hand Qay-'rep-
. resent tho work of superior artists both J te
: in design and execution. j iran
Jewels of value may be used in the set- 'Jn
tiug. and tho lace itself ""may be of the &&
mo-st precious quality, for not even in a '1!
cabinet may a rare cxamplo of the Lice- . .
maker's art bo shown to better advantage L?2rj
than in one of these fans. ' ipS
The French painted fans arc also ex- u
trcmqly fashionable, and here also the ' S$
person of extravagant tasto who has also
ajo.ve for the beautiful may expend what- Ml
ever sum she cares to upon these acces30- gj
,ries,of the toilette, which often arc at tie iia
same time works of art of a high order. ' "$;
The'dcsigns of these French fans, whether ;
painted on heavy dull silk or vellum, arc 3fe
much like those used by the great French ?
painter who first elevated tho decoration $?
of the fan to a position among the fine '
,nrls. Gold and 6pongIes aro worked into JS1-'
;the design, or rather arc used to frame ? Sj
the various motifs of the design, nnd the Sj",
sticks of tho fan, of gold or Ivory, are S
cafcve'd. or embellished with enamel or en- Sjfa
.crusted with jewels. ' ' lj
'. .There arc aho black g3uze fans trimmed afc
withhold spangles or embroidery or with ?
rather heavy trimming of braid, and theso W'
arc most effectivo with certain costumes. ' fjti
Spangled Dinclns Fri. i "?
' " ''it
!;A feather fan which has also met with ' !
:mucli favor is made of eagles' feathers, t
supposedly, although it is barely possible IgJH
hat the plumage of less regal birds enters 3a
into its composition. This fan is mounted !Br
pn amber or lortoisc shell and is extremely iw$l
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