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The Evening standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, January 13, 1912, Image 9

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058397/1912-01-13/ed-1/seq-9/

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III ft "-
(III f V 7 M"V1Tk v.
'I V tOV ;
J ! villi S f
j Ir V"n' ,,cst skalrs begin
r J p 0 ft early," said an instructor in
j j I tills fashionable winter sport
'Ir S lhe othcr "J"' "- ifivl of
, jt seven is not too young to put
I on the steel blades and be
- IjIK taught how to guide herself over the ice.
I III lie W"J dcvcloP nto a belter skater than
' I 01IC vvJ' UC'DS t0 learn when she Is
1 1 111: j prown up."
Il Jt is quJtc truC tliat lhc youuS school-
! fit pirJ hns a srcat advantage over her older
j K sister m learning to skate we'll and toj
1 skate gracefully. The strokes come to
'Wlw t,ie J0Ilns er nlorc easily, she is less
' Ik sensitive to bumps and more eager to try
IK new and fancy figures. And usually her
p enthusiasm reaches a higher mark than
Jl docs that of the girl who has other pas-
Ijlij tinics and interests to fill her mind.
It " 11CW 'mliet"s has been given to ice
1 l skating since the New York Public
;l Schpols Committee on Athletics has de-
J ' ' c t0 mtroducc it in public school trairi-
Hill inp anc' lo arran6c for tie children to use
111 ,', l'ark !l'ccs, wuon they are frozen over
r ton safe thickness and St. Nicholas Kink
T "'ICU outdoor skating must be abau-
' ft doucd The movement promises to bc-
lt conic general throughout the country
, where cither natural or artificial ice of
fcrs a chance for the practice and enjoy-
p ment of this healthful sport.
t Physicians say there is no more invigor.
Ill rting exercise than skating. Every muscle
I in the body is used, the lungs are expanded
l" with each stroke of the skater nnd thc
llj blood is sent tingling through tb'e Veins
1 until she fairly glows with excitement
II L and warmth.
J r ECAUSE it is so invigorating and .
1 Pj exhilarating the skater should dress ;j
'M with the greatest care. The amateur I
nsuallj puts on too many wraps for fear',
I i of feeling cold in the crisp air, while the
I, practised skater is apt to dress somewhat
thiul.v Jn order to avoid becoming over- j
,( .heated. j
S f A medium wpight costume is the best to'
F choose to protect the wearer agajust the
6 cold and yet not feel too heavy when the
MX. ilarer 3s-cxcrciatiip. 'Such a dress as one
I ' rron' choose for a 'long, steady tramp
Kf ,vou' bo of the correct weight for skat-
f iug, but this would probably be cut on
, H-f difforent lines for the ice sport. I
" Even in this day of extremely nnrrow
K skirts skating costumes arc made suffi-
, B4 cicntly wide to allow of the greatest ease'
r Hf of movement. Skirts that nre short look'
ccn s',orlr when orn by the skater, so
that It is unucccssary to wear one cut
I ' - ''
yy r 3feS-S
a ' ml
Ready for a Turn
-Around the Rink
shorter than the fashionable walking
length for comfort Stiff collars, tight
belts npd even stays are abandoned by
many young skateis now. Waists and
blouses arc cut away nt the throat to
facilitate breathing, and if corseis arc
worn t all these are of the most flexible
material made.
The graceful skater must not be ham
pered by anything tight at the waist, as
many of the postures make bending neces
sary nud a rhythmic swaying essential to
the execution of the figure.
I Expert skaters lay great stress on the
'bupts and skates which arc attached. The
bopt .which laces down the front almost
to th toolis preferred to any other this
seas'on. It is made 'of the" best leather,
reinforced nt the ankles so that straps are'
not. required to give, the proper support
and the shoes cairbe'fiuickly adjusted A I
tfew girls at the rink, are wearing racing!
skates whb?h project beyond the soles 6fi
tbe shoes, but younger girls begin lessons1
'on the ordinary well sharpened steel
I Strokes "can be learned only on the ico.
A beginner may read pages and pages of
and their covering with velvet the most
dilUcult part of the work, a few of them
having to do it over nnd over again before
it could be declared satisfactory. Of
course, the girls that were in the habit of
sewing got on faster than the others, al
though it is likelj that before the class
ends, foinc time in the late spring, each
girl will be able to acquit herself well,
even in the branches of the art (hat she
has learned with greatest difficulty.
The lessons in trimming came last of
all and have not yet been completed.
They include special instructions in the
making of rosettes, the handling of fur
nnd the arrangement of feathers, besides
the uses of ornaments. The proper lining
nud finish of a hat will also be taken up
in turn.
. Tho girls of this class expect to wear
(ho ha Is that they make during their les
sons. Iu fact, special hats that they
wished to wear on various occasions were
planned in the beginning. Some of the
gjils arc already wearing their so-called
"clas hat?," and more stylish looking
ones would be hard to find, ceu in the
wjndowi of extravagant shops. One is
of brown velvet, designed to wear with
a brown fur coat. Its brim is rather
large, followiug somewhat the graceful
Dues of the hat worn in the generally
known picture of the Countess of Spcn
cer, A small hat with a fur coat, this
class; has learned, is usually a mistake
The girl who made this hat wore it re
cently while taking lea with some inti
mate friends.
"Your hat i" charming," she was told.
"I made it," she replied.
Now, aw this girl is known to have
abundant means the reasons for her mak
ing her own hat were questioned. She
answered by relating the whole story of
the elastj in hat making.
"The class is teaching me," she said,
"not only to make hats but to know some
thing of their value. I shudder to think
of the hots with really glaring faults that
I have bought. Some milliner told me
(hat they were becoming, I paid a high
price and put them on and wore them. I
know now that the foundations of many
of them must have been made by ap
prentices', and poor ones at that. Even
though it is not obligatory for me to make
my own hats, a knowledge of how they
should be built will liplp mo to select
(hose that I buy in the future. After I
Iiave hnd the full number of lcssonu I
cap phow other girls who have small In-j
comes how to save a good bit of money
on their hendwear. Oh," she coulinucd,
"this hnt is nothing to what I shall do
before the class is over. Already I have
started one to wear ut concerts and when,
I Bit In boxes nt the theatres. It is, of
turnuojsu blue lullo nml velql, with a
wonderful ornament that I .shall also
make. Ob, a dream!"
As she spoke another cirl came in for
" ' ' ' - - - - - - ' ' """ "',"'.. "',""7;"""""'" , I
ft e l.
a j . ' ,
- v . j rink or the lake accompanied and sup-
fe-v") jfr3 "or'tcd by an instructor the difficulties
v J& 6C?m to 'l''!al)Pcar-
-TZ T J$ T""0 graceful skater stands erect, knees
Wf& " VvVV . apart and not rigid. Tdic rigid kneed
RyyV 7'f cJ-rtg'Hsii '-qii. fekutcr can jiccr hone Iji achieve grace.
?y $r .'A l&i ?! r?M jSi; : J;f Beginners usually feel that they must
f3 Wil'll-' keep their knees and their feet close to-
r"- fwill: '-" Kether, us they learn to place them when
'A PWm&t- talking. This is something they must
l f iiL unlearn, and the sooner they master the
'J.U J l first principles of the sport the belter.
ifj . 5' iS Balanced thus, with the shoulders held
' cn;:
r .- , . "fiB
-V- Mill t&ssb ,fy mj
tf ftp- "I1 : ' '' iBL '111
w wa'ii8B
Finishing Figure on the Toes . --
material describing tliQ different poses and
postures, but they will mean practically
nothing until she has tried them herself
on the ice'. 'After "that tho descriptions
begin to have sonfe definite meaning and
printed instructions on figures may be
4 4
BALANCE is the important thing
when learning to skate. At first the
art of standing on two thin steel
blades seems almost impossible to ac
quire, but after a few turns around the
J Class of Fashionable Girls Learn Hat Making
S I m T HAT young and fashionable gills1
'''' It a have formed classes lo learn how
SjT If- I to mnke their own hats is one of
' W 1C stronS?st protests yet made
4 f against the high prices now prc-
,. l vailing for headgear. "The prices
W 1 asked for a bit of fur nud a wisp of
" feather aro unmerciful; they make too
1 ? H
'4 it '''P "iroads on our allowances," say tie
) j W .voun? girls. Hence the class- in hat
6" 1J niakiug
'.' ml The largest and most conspicuous of the
, mi hat making classes this season has been
', K organized by a daughter of a many times
n K uiillionnairc, at whose home the meetings
..JIj arc held one morning each week. Twelve
'imvi Slrls belong to this class, which is pre
5' WLl si'lcd over by an expert hat makT, a
tm'l French woman, knowing the trade from
i t beginning to end.
i ' m At the first meeting of the class a gen-
ml rral talk On hat making was given by the
J Kf instructress, to which the girls listened
- Mi cnKerl.v At tlie second meeting the work
' mP was begun ; that is, the really serious part
" K of hnt tnakiug. In fact, if any one of the
"'tiff pirls had entered the class tbipking to
J Iftt turn out a fascinating creation at each
!u meeting she soon found herself grievously
7 mistaken. The teacher insisted that each
r. 1 , Blep in the art of hat making should be
: j Liken slowly and thoroughly.
The first thing the girls of this class
' it' 'earned to do was to make the wire frame
Sri ats' anc ma'ce tbem of a size and
Ha shape suited to their own heads. The
A Ik twthcr provided the requisite amount of
B hwy aud vco fine wire, also tweezers,
Ifi l" 0D'J' necessary implements. At lirst
$ tue girls thought this uninteresting, dull
f v work, sajing that they could buy these
j. w're frames already 'made for fifty ceutij
r 5 npitce. As they progressed with the work
V jf they became more reconciled, and wheu
X each one had finished lier frame she found,
; s'ie had something sq much nmre Indit
r j idunl and becoming than anytilng that
r V she could buy that she was delighted
y c Indeed, it is in tint, very fact of mailing
Q ' the foundation frame to suit the head of
, l a" individual, instead of using 'pne that
'Jw h as uceQ manufactured by the wholesale,
, r that the French milliners locate their suc-
I The proper covering of the frame, ita
vx,l facing and binding were lessons then
)m ' taken up in succession. Whpn goods
tttl . should be cut on tho bias and when ou
ipm ' fi1 straight were aho biibjecl.s discussed,
rJI - (as ell as how seams bhoiild be joined
8 and the manner of their pressing.
? '-The girls found the facing of the frames
a cup of tea. "This is a class hat," she
said, "isu t it a beauty V"
This hat was composed of bands of fur,
showing as an entre deux the lining of
silver cloth. It appeared very stuuuing,
worn as it was with a suit of dark blue
"It's the prettiest hat I ever had," haid
Its maker enthusiastically. "It is so
light and it fits my Jiead bo well I al
most forget 1 have it on. It stas ou my
head so snugly that I don't even look
mussed up afler boiug out in a wind. I
hope I'll be able to make several more
before the class cuds."
One of the things that the girls like
about their class is that its instructress
has an established ideal of hats. This
ideal is the one held by the French gentle
women. It insistB that a hat should be
a thing of beauty, with perchance a co
quettish note; that it should be light in
weight, fit the head well and carry out
the lines demanded by the face. It
should never be wijd in style, conspicuous
in color or loud in decoration. A hat pro
claims the woman moie than any other
article of dress. It can make n naturally
refined girl appear vulgar, nnd it can give
a suggestion of elegance to one that is
inordinately commonplace,
Above all else a class in hat making
should not economize on the price of its
well up and the knees apart, the sknter
is ready for the first 'stroke. "This is
made by the entire body. ' Tho shoulders
move in tune witlifflicufeebaiid legs7first
one shoulder and then tho other, and
even the wnist responds to the movement
of the body. It is noticeable at any
gathering of girl and women skaters that
those whose waists are unhampered ninko
the most graceful movements and seem
to glide rhythmically, while the others
who are stiflly corseted seem to move
only Tit the knees, and therefore look un
gainly and unattractive.
Til 10 term "girdle" used to suggest
rather bulky swathings of folded silk
or satin, sometimes brought to a point
high up in the middle of the back. We
can ccn remember "girdle forms," four
or five inches Tide, pointed at top and
bottom, front and back, which were once
looked on as the cream of style. But the
newest civet girdle of to-day has but
little in common with those half forgot
ten outlines, and can be made with much
less trouble, as well as with a much less
elaborate foundation.
It is, in fact, only a flat, narrow band
nround the waist with perhaps a single
little fold to soften th severity of the
effect. From one 6idc of it) hang flat ends,
two of them, perhaps a couple of inches
wide, finished with a heavy deep silken
fringe of the same color as the velvet. If
the dress with which it is to h worn h
of some light and delicate fnbric, while
the velvet is black, id is a wise precaution
to line these girdle ends either with white
silk or with the fnbric of the gown, as in
swinging with the nntural movements of
the wearer's hotly they must rub against
These girdle ends can hang any length
that one pleases, to suit the lines of one's ;
gown, but the prettiest ones arc those '
which fall no more than fifteen Inches for '
the longer end, the shorter one's fringe
coming exactly to the top of that on the,'
longer one. '
r, OR instance, it is most important
(o swing the arm when skating. The
arms should not be hold above the
waist line, but should be allowed to drop
at the sides away-from the bodv. In
?i I vj j I ftfSEtmimMm
1111 W'
Mil W '
l&ilrlfSiv WjLv
fm ''iff
wM -- im
ESs8Ss -7
cJWUB?MK Sir;.; 3ryyzijr,
Ibis position they swing easily with each
forward or backward motion of the
skater, while in straightaway skating
they sway gentlj-, as if .wafted by a
Unless tho waist, shoulders, legs nnd
arms move iu harmony there can he no
such thing as grace, and the young girl
skater desires this distinction in her win
ter sport quite as much as anything else.
The beginner is tempted to look at tho
ice in front of her unless she is con
stantly watched and warned against this
error. The correct way is to look far
ahead, to teach the cyo to judge distance
quickly and accurately and thus avoid
accidents nnd to let the body follow
the direction of the eye almost uncon
sciously. At first this Is .difficult to do,
IWSmmSmmmmmmmmWSS I
rfiiN i mummm
1 rhmnmm I
Learning to Waltz
but practice soon makes it easy.
The girl skater should not be content
to learn straightaway skating. This is
an excellent accomplishment and is the
foundation for fancy figures, which arc,
after all, the Teal pleasure and goal of the
Ice enthusiast. It has been said by an
English woman visiting here that Amer
icans lack ambition when it comes to
skating; that they are too easily satisfied
with having mastered a few strokes and
do not yearn to know more about- the
difficult art. In some of the larger rinks
figure skating 5s taught to many o the
younger girls, some of whom have ac
complished the most intricate ones used
by professional exhibitors.
The "roll" is one of the easiest of these,
and is used in many of the fancy 'figures.
A long fitroko h taken on the skating fool
and fho balanco foot is brought over its
mate as the skating stroke is finished.
This foot takes the ice and makes a long,
swinging stroke, at tho finish of wbjc.h,.tne
othor foot, which has become, the, balance
foot, is brought ovor the skating foot and
takes its position for a stroke.
THIS Is a popular figure for fancy
pkating in pairs, and It is also won
derfully graceful and effective when
' M A
: done by a skater alone.' As tho feet ar ' i H J
swung first one over tho other and then M 1
tho movement reversed it is easy to see? 1 S3 1
how important it is to haTO the whole l
body sway in inieon. With. a. stiff and I ;
unbending waist Hne and knees that do ' 1
not yield to every slightest movement of 1
the body, a skater would resembje an in- i II '
animate mass of material Eliding over the I'll
ice on steel runners. ' I
One renson for recommendinj; the fancy M '
figures is on account of their value in ' M
strengthening the ankles and improving 1
the balance. In all the fanciful motions, m
which must be quick if they are to be ef- it
fective, the balance is shifted almost in- I ' I ' j
stantaneously from one foot to the other. ill!
Ecn while the body is in an unusual pose- I V 11
the balance is often changed, and this Ifi'
series of -movements requires the greatest " it 1 u
skill, as -well as familiarity -with the sim- . II 1
plcet wa7 to gUde from one posture into (l
another. " j Ij
oung giris learn the waltzing step al- ( ' f II
most as easily as they do tho "rolL" In 'I'll
the dancmg figure 'each skater must turn f II
at (intervals and" skate backward. Tne J El
quick recovery from thet forward to tho ' II1
backward position 'is excellent practice . 1
and helps with the execution of the more II
jntricate figures. , " Sr
Skating clubs are always a delightful v ;SI
feature of this winter sport. Girls who ' m
lie in town can have their clubs meet at ' fjf
tho rinks if the weather is not propitious , III
for trying the exercise outdoors. Tho jl
of tcner you skate tho more you Improve, ' III
and usually the more enthusiastic you i
grow. Some clubs meet once a week, , ! !tj
while- others meet two or three times, be- p
cause Ihe skating season Is comparatively ' (jf
short and the girls feel that they must ." ' I
make the most of each lesson. , ? '
l V-
VELVET and velveteen dresses arer'be- i
log worn by girls who have special
costumes for skating. One of the
: prettiest of these seen the othor day liad' ' ' K
a plain skirt edged with fur, and at each l
side a panel of pleating inset to increase
' the width whenthe wearer was in motion J
nnd yet give the skirt a fashionably nar- , J
row look at other timps. 1 1
The waist was mado with n soft, loose, j 1, i
semi-fitted blouse trimmed with a deep '
collar of velvet edged with fur, and a '"jll
1 small velveteon hat with a furrband com' $1,
' pletcdtlie simple and-effccrivc-cosUrme, ! '
A dress made all in one piece recom- B
mends itself to the girl skater on account R '
of its simplicity and tho ease with which if
it can be adjusted. The skirt o such a:
'dress' ceen, the other 6ay had a tmalclika I"
section, sloping trpward ia front; 'where it Vj
bnttoned from belt to hem. Tho blouse Jh
ala.o buttoned down (the front and had
trimmings of velvet. H
White is a- favorite colorf or vej'-yorrflg H
girls. Somo of the-tiniestof these-ekartcTS H
dress In all Tvhlto, with -whita or black
sknting ehoes, white or black hat and H
white gloves. The hat should bo small H
nnd light and have a flexible brim that H
. will bend in any shape nnd keep -any po
Practical Suggestions for the Girl Who Sews,
A BRIGHT young girl whose pet fad
is harmony in the matter of the little
details of dress, devising always
some original touch which will tell those
who see that her costume was designed
as aJwhole, not being merely a chance
collection of dress and accessories,
evolved, a charming and graceful fichu
nnd quff set to whjch any color touch dc
siredjcnnjbc added, according to the dress
with which it is to be worn.
The fichu itself is of the usual draped
surplice shape, curved to fit over the
shoulders, and trimmed with dainty lace
frills. The iuncr edge is also of lace.
Along the middle of the fichu, following
its longest line is a strip of velvet ribbon
or folded satin of a tint to match the
gown, that is held in place by little cross
straps of lace about three inches apart,
out from which it can be drawn when
the fichu is laundered, or wheu It is to be
replaced by some other color.
The cuffs to match this were deep ones,
turned back, with double rows of lace
frills an inch deep at the upper edge.
Around the body of each cuff went the
strip of satin or velvet to match that
used on the fichu, and this, again, was
upparcutly secured by the tiny straps of
lace which crossed it, but which was also,
as in the case of the fichu, caught here
and there by an invisible stitch to prevent
THERE is one point of etiquette
ou which there is always a de
bate and uncertainly in a girl's
mind the etiquette of visiting
cards. "When a girl comes out
her mother is only loo glad to
shift this part of the social duty ou her
daughter's shoulders, and she must know
just how many cards to leave in vary
ing circumstances.
There are so mauy details connected
with the leaving of caidsnnd so many
occasions on which to leave them that nt
first it seems bewildering- It does not
take long, however, to adapt one's self,
to the custom, and every onc who pre
tends to know anything about Society
with a capital "S" must know all about
how, when and where to leave cards.
The card itself varies hi size according
to the fashion. Just nt present caids are;
as small as they conveniently can bo
both for married and untnniried women,
though a man'H card never varies, being
alwujs tho regulation SI7.0, about three
and n half inches long aud two inches
deen. The name is, of course, iu thej
ccutre, and the address iu the lower
right hand corner. The "at homo" day,
if Hie girl's mother 'has one, is printed
in the lower left hand' comer, and should
read "Thursdays iu January" or "Thurs
day, January 4 th andllth."
The most common use for cards is, of
course, for culling, nd calls must be
made with care aud regularity if a girl
expects to keep her position In the world
of fashion. It is not etiquette to cnll ex
cept .upon "at homo" -day, unless, of
course, the parly has- no daj then it is
permissible to call any time. If (be girl is
calling on a marricdi-wonmn she loaves
I one of her own cards and one of hor
mother's, with two of her father's, a tho
man must always' call on the man of lie
house. If the Indy has- daughters in so
ciety a card should be left for each daugh
terfrom all three, tho girl's mother and
father and the girl and If there arc other
mon In the family t he girl shdifld leac
one of her father's cards for each oue of
them. A woman naturally never leaves a
curd on n man. ,
This seomfi like a great un&tp 0f canj.
jboaid, but as it is etiquette ii musl be
accepted. "When a girl is paying a party
call for a luncheon ou people that she
knows slightly she must, of course, leave
a card for the girl's mother, even if she
has never mot her. When a girl goes to
any kind of reception she must leave
cards. There is usually a tray left in the
hall for this purpose. If a girl and her
mother are prevented from attending a
recoption they must send cards, aud just
the same quantity as if they badcalled
personally. Never send cards to "duys"
until the last day.
A girl should nlwajs leave cards on peo
ple Su mournlnpf aud as soon after their
bcroau'hipnt as possible. Never ask to
seo any one; just leave the card. It is also
polito to. Jcavo cards wheu one knows of
illness in a house. In this case it is polite
to inquire for the nuflerer. If a fnc d
moves into the neighborhood a girl should
leave cards on her within the week, or it
the girl's, family move and the neighbors
call on 'them the girl should sec that the
courtesy is promptly returned. All these
little thinp meaij o "ch ,,,,I .rc,lUIrc
the most iuiiuice enro if " girl lS going out
at all " '
any accident or slipping from place. The
narrow girdle was also of the same ma
terial as the colored "inset."
ONE of tho dearest little collar and
jabot accessories imaginable was
fashioned bv a girl, of fine white
silk net and black silk velvet ribbon. The
collnr, curving slightly upward at the
back, was covered with the silk net, in
dollcate folds and banded with two rows
of the black velvet ribbon, which met ih
a pair of tiny bows in front, from under
the lower of which fell the softly plaited
jabot, also of the net. .
The sides of the jabot were decidedly
longer than tho middle, and the edges
were finished with an almost invisible
little hem, run with a fino thread of
while sewing silk. But the character of ,
Iho whole dainty bit lay in the two nar
row tic-ends of the black velvet, which
hung from the collar edgo, under the ,
semi-transparcut jabot, and showing
through its folds. These were about three
inches longer than was the jabot, and
their ends were finished with rosettes and t
linj tassels of black silk and jot beads. 1
To wear with it, on certain occasions, 1
she also made a pair of deep plaited cuffs I
of the same white silk net, headed with
beading, through which the black velvet f
ribbon was run, and from which depended
little "dangles" of it, to match those fall- c
iug beneath the jabot, and with the same
rosette aud tassel pendant effect. A tiny c
lace edging could bo used with both jabot a
aud cuffs if the plain hemmed finish of t
the silk net bo more severe than is de- v
sired. c
. r
THERE are two most excellent rea
sons why a pair of tiny eyelets
worked in the front edges of a turn
down collar will prove noticeably worth
while the bit of time needed for working
them. No matter how plain and severe
the collar, if it is to be worn with a
"pinned ou" tie, bow or jabot, the pass
ing through the fabric of the pin, never
twice iu exactly tho same part of the
edge, will assuredly wear a hole tnrougn
the linen loug before the rest of It has
begun to give out.
With the two little eyelets,, through
which the pin can be passed, there is n'o
wear whatever, and the pretty hand em
broidered collar will give far better and
lougcr service for the precaution. la the
case of a perfectly plain collar, the lack
of other embroidery has no bearing on
tho question, -is the ends of -the pin are
quite certain to cover the eyelets. It will
pay to have these tailored collars washed
out soft, and to work tho holes In them I
before I hoy are again luuudered.; I
The second reason for worked -eyelets i
is niot 'simple. They, insure, as nothing
else can, that the pin aud tic will bo i
adjusted evenly. Not one' person in '
Lwenly cau run a iiu through the two i
front edges of her collar and nna tna re- H
suit exactly straight across. And a H
every time the pin is taken out and put jH
in afresh adds to the wear on the fabric, H
not only one's neat appearance, but an- H
other avoidanco of wear and tear .will H
owe much to this trivial precaution. H
rw EPIxACrNG-worn wristbands or cuff H
LJ on a white wash waist is a fairly, jH
simpjo matter. It is usually but one H
of several, and a substitute can take its H
place while it is being repaired. The same H
A.y . f .xlirrl wacn JH
emergency in iua .-nae ui viw ,,,
waist is less readily mec where tho pre- H
caution of having a pieco of the material jl
washed with the waist, in order to keep H
the color strength tho same in both, has , jl
not been taken. A word to the wiba jl
ought to bo sufficient, but tho onnco of pre- H
vention is apt to be forgotten. H
The most troublesome "wearing," how- H
ever, is that of the dark wool or ralk waist IH
which is so often part of one's every day, jl
costnmo in cold weather. Bcforo any. IH
other part of tho garment begins to show H
signs of wear the wrist edges aro hope- H
lesaly frayed, and a couple of hours must jH
be spent in ripping and. remakinr. But H
there is a remedy. IH
The wise girl or woman will Sther -make lH
for herself or have made of the -odd- pieces IH
of tho waist material several seta of turn- H
over cuffs, with edgo of -braid, bias silk or ' H
with tiny frills. A pair of theso tacked H
onto the sleeves trill not only add to the IH
appearanco of tho waist but will protect IH
tho lower edges of tho skevee from-sott and jH
wear, and wall often give aervica for 'a H
couple- of months bcforo needing to be H
ripped out and. replaced. This same-plan H
could also bo used in-the-case -of the above H
mentioned colored, wash waists, especially, H
where hand work has heen put on tho H
pretty garment, making it -closer to.one's H
affections than would ha he-aeQ. tfTJth H
an ordinary ehirt sraisi. j.,, : H
CHARMING Bttlo calenaarw-aro itorbo H
made with the aid of bevelled edsed. H
white cards of about twcbyxlverfnchee, JH
; a silk or tinsel cord, a cluster of tinsel or jH
silk flowers or a bow of ribbon and a. year IH
calendar scarcely more than one-anda half H
i inches square. Having punched two-holes jH
close to the top of the cardboard panel, H
gold or silver paint tho ragged edges and H
then run through the apertures the cord- H
ago hanger, which should be joined be-- H
ueath a pair of tiny tassels of matching c jH
A third of the distanco from the lower - IH
edge of the panel is the proper place for jH
the calendar, which can be pasted on with H
glue and allowed to dry while you are . IH
making the cluster of silk flowers or B
cluster bow of nnrrow ribbon to be Placed jl
midway between the top of the calendar; 1
nnd the hangers, also secured by mains of j H

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