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The Ogden standard. (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, October 09, 1909, Part Two, Image 10

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058398/1909-10-09/ed-1/seq-10/

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y Very Drees Y
aids Dream Thed er I a
I O One Piece Wool = rdcZ s the r Fad Three Costumes in One New Sleeves
< < Jf in Sections One Plumed Hat at Least for the Bride Empire
fG 1 Lines Most Graceful for Wedding Gowns
q I FTEA nil tho hunters moon makes
IN the bonniest honeymoon Fall
a HPTER is Ideal for cither travel
U w I ing or sightseeing and no wedding
Is more charming thnn tho outof
i I t lnvn affair on crisp September or October
i i ly The autumn bride moreover ban a
tt I i unity of clothes far more BObstnntlal
I jmd lasting thnn the pretty summer out
fit of the June bride whoso dainty
frocks flimsy though numerous must be
I put aside In n few months to mnko way
for winter raiment
I The autumn brides wool nnd silk cos
tumes her pretty dinner ball and bridge
frocks and her handsome wraps have a
character and imbalance and are built
of a quality of material which will make
them serve not only through the six
months or so uutll spring but also
under slightly different guisethrough a
second and even a third season
A Smart Tailored Continue the
First Connldcrntlou
4 Tailored wear this winter will be of
two Forts the coat nnd skirt suit built of
cloth serge or other wool material and
the ultra smart topcoat which will be
worn over onepiece frocks of wool silk
or mohair A good plan for the autumn
bride will be the choice of u rather
dressy coat and skirt suit made of flue
serge or satin cloth this suit to serve for
afternoon calls nnd theater wear nud one
of the long easily fitting top coats for
wear mornings or when driving or mot
These new top coats whllo partaking
of ulster characteristics nre by no means
as bulky as the oldstyle ulster They
are built of homespun tweed or rather
henry serge and they fall quite to the
ankles The well cut top coot gives flue
bug lines defining the figure without
unduly accenting any particular part
Eccentricities of cut lapped seams fancy
cuffs and big buttons give style nnd
dash Sometimes the severity of the
long line Is broken by flat pleats set In
below the hips
When the fad for lagging these big
coats about has passed they will servY
admirably for motoring wenr Just nt
present they are particularly smart In
Paris where they are worn lu tho after
noon even over gay little silk frockH and
tearoom costumes The long topcoutd
are being Been already In New York
though the warm toll weather scarcely
warrants so much protection Removed
In the tearooms these coats revenl
charming little toilettes of cashmere
crepe cloth or the pretty soft pormofln
Isliccl mohairs which ilrnpo and nil so
Wool Irocl Pretty An Snmmor
The fall bride will base nt least three
of these little onepiece wool frocks for
they ore much the thing now their
vogue having been tin direct cause of
the fad for long nil enveloping top
coats They nrc made on princess Hues
and usually here the long bodice effect
with n pleated skirt below Sometimes
there la a tunic or Russian smock of
CCE 30 IEct
HITE Is for the bride who steps
from girlhood Into matrouhood
W She and she only may wear It
The widow cannot be married
I a second time In white Her
choice may Ho betweeu pale gray rose
pink blue or any other colors but white
she muet leave to the girl to whom this
t symbolic garb belongs by divine right
j So much sentiment and sacredness are
I attached to the white wedding robes which
I may be worn but once that It atoms
i strange that any girl will forego this priv
I ilege and be married In a traveling coy
I tamo or even a colored frock of any sort
I Of course the white wedding gnrb If
properly supplied costs n deal of money
I but the girl of sentiment will sacrifice all
along the line lu her trousseau In order
I to hare this one supreme occasion digni
fied by a traditional wedding gown and
Given the white satin wedding gown
there la no reason why tho rest of the
white belongings should make a devastat
ing bole In the trousseau exchequer If
there 1a not a lace heirloom veil kept
sacred to weddings In the family there Is
usually dome happy little matron friend
who II only too anxious to lend her wed
ding veil and the luck It brought to the
l rJde tol A wedding veil of whlto tullo
costs from flO to 15depending on lbn
brides height for the veil must fall quite
to the end of the long train After the
lengths of tulle have been draped on the
bUd and spread out over the skirt the
lower edgo Is shaped by clipping It away
with a pair of scissors eo that It fall
gracefully Just covering tho train White
pearl heeded pins t J Ould bo used for fast
ening the veil to the bride hair Tho
veil falling over tho face Is easier to ar
range tor It baa only to M thrown over
the bead a coronet of orange buds bold
lug It In place on top
From red to slipper seams n sudden
jump but thn brides footwear represents
a very Important feature of her costume
If the wedding Is to h < i In a chancel the
dippers will be In erldencc ns the brldo
comes down the steps In view of a thou
sand eyes Every girls heart has throbbed
with sympathy for the poor little bride
who It Is related wore her mothers red
worsted bedroom slippers to the church
to keep her pretty white footwear from
being soiled by the carriage rugsand
then forgot to remove the red worsted
affairs before Hhe went up tho aisle The
wedding slippers may If one chooses
cost n mint of money or tbey may be
purchased for n few dollnrs If satin
bllppcrs are chosen they should bo slim
clently large for these Uppers ore often
affaire of torture and though the journey
up the church aisle Is short tho bourn
during which the bride stands up nt the
reception arc long
Of course no stockings except those of
fluent silk Khould bear the little bride to
happiness Better an absolutely plain
pair of silk hose than the most elaborate
ly garulehcil cotton ones Sill stockings
nro nn Item of extravagance dear to tho
heart of woman and no silk mocking
can be too dainty for n bride Ravishing
pairs embroidered nnd Inset with real
Incc come as high ns F 2o but the average
bride will be content with n pretty pair
nt tL or under
Glovcn arc not ns much of n considera
I tion nR they were for the sleeves of
wedding gowns are now made long ROil
hort gloves nro all that Is required Tho
shopkeeper will obligingly rip open the
third linger of tho left glove to accom
modate the wedding ring which Li placed
on the hnnd during tho ceremony after
ward stitching up the glove so that It
may bo worn with tbu frock With sum
mcr wedding dresses of lingerie anti net
fabrics the long white embroidered silk
gloves are very daInty but for tho au
tumn wedding In tin conventional satin
wedding gown white kid glove are ID
better taste
Tho brldo wean no Jewelry except tho
traditional gift of the groom this be
lug UHijnlly n pearl or diamond brooch
or pendant or a string of pearls Her
orange blossoms and her crown of lovely
girlhood nrc thu only ornaments the
little bride needs nail If she Is n prop
crly Joyous bride nil the illnmonds she
might wear would be outdonp by the light
of happiness In her eyes
A praycrboolc Is sometime carried with
the wedding gown Instead of tho conven I
tional bouquet nod there U a demure
dignity about the bride carrying a
praycrlxjok which she with the mam
moth bunch of posies never quite
achieves A pretty notion Is IlluutnitcO
the white vellum prnyorltook being deco
rated with exaggerated boukmurks made
of white ribbons to which iuc tied sprays
of Illles of the valley
There IK one Item of the brides nttlre
which Is never white and every girl
knows what that Is the Bomethliiff
blue which tradition has come to menu
the brides garter This bluo garter will
of course be extravagantly say with
ehlrrcd ribbon and n chou cud nkowcr
feet the smock falling loosely over tho
skirt A smart llttlo tearoom frock In
this smock style was of cashmere In a
delicate vertgrla sMile the smock of
embroidered green net bclni confined
loosely at the waist by a belt of dull
silver links fastened with a scarab clasp
of green enamel The smock In rcgulii
tloti Russian style had a shallow ruuud
neck nod little bobbed off sleeves that
reached half wny to tile elbow there being
no shoulder seams A tucked chiffon
gulrnpe nod tho sleeves in deep cream
color nnd two heavy strings of green
bends completed an exceedingly chic
frock which the bride might have built
in the green or some other dainty shade
for a luncheon or bridge frock
With this green costume was worn n
dashing green heaver hail caught up nt
the left side with another of the scarab
buckles A band of green velvet en
circled the but a big bow being set
at the right side Whea ten was over
the pretty girl In this green frock nml
bat donned n stunning topcoat of mixed
bow of nnrrower ribbon nnd will bo
when It
worn only on Ibs one occasion
Is supposed to bring luck and happiness
to tie wearer
There Is an old saying to the effect
The maid wbo weary a yellow garter
on a bridal morn
Will be herself a bride before another
year baH dawn
And It Is a pretty notion for the bride
lobo to make for each of her maids a
dainty yellow garter exactly like the blue
one which she will wear nt the wedding
These yellow garter must of course be
made by the brides own handa In order
to poMcsH any magical Influence over the
bridesmaid future happiness
Let tho birds bung ILS long an they can
possibly be kept without becoming offen
sive pick them carefully draw and singe
them wipe tho Insldcs thoroughly with a
wltb the head
clean cloth trusa them
turned under the wing and the legs
drawn close together not crossed Flour
them and baste them plentifully with
butter Serve them with bread sauce nod
good brown gravy In a turccu nnd dish
them up on fried breadcrumbs Time 30
to 10 minutes
gride BeveIc
in ELaborate lYe glirjee
I homespun showing flecks of white on n
neutral sage green ground The big
coat covered tho dainty frock from
throat to ankle
When Economy Mnut Be Studied
I The bride who cannot afford both a
handsome cloth Bull and n topcoat and
frock combination besides will find n way
out of her dlllloulty tblK year In fact
t styles seem happily designed to meet the
needs of the woman who has not a long
pllOne good but perfectly simple two
piece suit Hbould be purchased nnd If
the services or n competent tailor are not
at onofl command a smart and satisfac
tory suit may be bought ready made
care being taken to put the money Into
flue lines and good material and uot Into
any elaboration of trimming
With this sultth coat of which will
be ns long ns possible one may achieve
three costume effects The coat and
skirt with pretty blouses make the first
costume The long coat may also bo
worn over separate onepiece frocks of
the enme color but built of a much light
er material like voile cashmere de sole
or silk crepe Such n little frock while
matching the coat exactly In color will
be qulto dressy In style to bo worn nt
luncheons and teas It will have a bodice
built over n gtilmpc of Inco or tucked
chiffon and 1C one wishes to be very
smart there may be three bodices one
over the other the outer bodice of the
frock material being set over one of chif
fon and this In turn revealing yoke and
sleeves of lace Either the chiffon or the
wool bodice however ohnnld have nu
oversleeve falling over the sleeve of lace
These sectional sleeves are a feature of
frocks for dressy occasions Drecoll first
brought them In null tho sectional DrecoU
sleeve has marked many n gown this
summer The close shoulder lute Is
maintained with thc new sleeves but
there Is un attempt to break up the se
vere line of the long tight sleeve of the
Dlrcclolre mode
Sleeves should be carefully studied by
lho woman who la planningn trousseau
or other new outfit for by their cbarac
The Little
Flower Girls
wear Lacy FrocK
ter IH the wearer Judged Women in
stinctively dislike to change ncccptcd
sleeve styles nnd while this detail Is very
Important In the art of the great coutur
iers the smaller dressmaker Is opt to
cling obstinately to n style which she has
Tlic Coat Over n Separate Wool
nclurnlng to tho economy combination
of the tailored unit with other garments j
a third variation may bo effected with n
trig walking skirt of checked or Invisi
bly striped material over which tho long
coat will look very smart of a morning
This outfit with a supply of pretty
blourCB some of tucked satin or fancy
Ellk some of white linen or madras and
nt least two of chiffon and nctwlll give
the little bride a very satisfactory sup
ply of garments for various occasions
And of course to match these street
costumes there will bo several hats one
of tho new highcrowned turbans with a
rt stilt brush at the Aide for morning
wear end perhaps n soft furry beaver
affair trimmed wit h velvet for alternate
wear The afternoon costume demands
n dressy hat perhaps n foathertrirani rt
model anj let tho canny bride puther
pennies Into handsome ostrich plumes
as she can buy for often economics must
grow Instead of diminishing In the first
few years of married life anti Ono feath
ers will often solve the problem of a
winter hat Besides those street hats
there should be one dainty model for
evening wear A charming evening hat
Is illustrated lace and velvet being com
bined In hnppy effect delicacy being sug
gested with no hint of fllmalness Tho
lace crown anti trim are airy In charac
ter but the velvet edge makes the hat
emphatically n winter model At the
side Is ono of the new mercury wing or
naments of metal In this case the
wings sprout from n cnbuchon shades of
yellow orange and deep brown blending
with the brown velvet brim of the hat
The Bride Will Need Pretty Even
ing Costumes
Several frocks on the semldrcssy order
should he provided In every trousseau
for no matter how small the community
In which the young pair make their I
home there will surely be many enter
tainments given in their honor dinners
receptions and card parties will demand
various dainty frocks and by the brides
trousseau Inevitably will she he Judged
A delightful little frock which may be
used for Informal affairs Is illustrated
This frock Is made of pole yellow fab
ric a silky worsted nnd mohair weave
much liked for It s draping qualities und
its soft beautiful coloring Yellow Is
the fashionable evening shade this sea
son and tho bride who cnn wear this
sometimes trying color should make the
most of her opportunity while yellow Is
the mode A black touch of Borne sort
Is however usually Introduced to give
I Notes and otionso
1IE very newest notion at tho French
races has been the parasol wltb Its
ferule end bent around Into a crook
whlrh hangs over the nrm The other
endor handle of the 11 rnsolls the
usual very long stick which one sees
everywhere this summer One advantage
fif having the hook on the ferule end
of tho nnebpdo IR hilt when It Is car
ried over the arm the polntH of the ribs
do not catch In tha draperies of tho
frock ns has often been the race with
parasols carried lu the usual manner
P one Is to keep supplied with clean
I ribbons nil the time It either means
the outlay of considerable money or n
great amount of care In preserving and
renovating them when they are soiled
Here Is a process by which mauy of the
ribbons ci > n lie washed They should bu
placed In a salt water bath und while
they are lu this water the other prepara
tion should be made This calls for soap
Jelly made from dissolved shredded
while soap In boiling water Sutllclcut
Jelly should be added to warm water to
mole a nice suds nnd to this can be
ndded n pinch of boras Tho ribbon
should bu squeezed through the hand
rubbing the soiled places and tho soap
should not he used directly on the rib
boas as It will fade delicate color When
the ribbons are clean remove to warm
and clear rinsing water and then to cold
To dry the ribbons In the open air would
fade them so tho best manner to do this
IB to lay them fiat and smooth on a clean
towel lull then roll tightly They should
stay rolled for nbout two hours when
they will be In Just about tho proper con
dition for ironing
17 Imagines that the folk who dc
slgr the patterns for the pretty cm
brotderotl hosiery must often bo nt
their wits end for something now for
women must have novelty and HO few de
signs are really practical on the silk
weave The latest notion is n little
buckle embroidered on the Rtoellns Just
in tho ceuter of the liiHtcp above where
the shoe comes the buckle being em
broidered with golden yellow threads to
initiate gold and Jewels being net In with
colored threads On n pair of sheer black
IIOKO oval gilt buckles set with turquoises
were very prettily tiultiitcd In the em
T has been said that It Is tho sleeves
that proclaim the age of n garment
but the slcevci uro much sonnllcr this
year and their alteration or repairing Is
n much easier Job Scams may bo hid
den under u tuck or n baud of trimming
In case of n smoothly fitting alcove Dud
the mousquelalro models are even more
eiially repaired Once the shirring Is In
the result In pretty resarillc of tho fact
that the si cove may be a veritable bit of
I or
I clc
t Go
1 aP
= = = ni
the yellow costume cachet and tone t nine
the black note In this case being added chi
by a bodice trimming of black lace In I st
ncrtlon and two Cat black velvet bows I ill
wnlch finish the flcbu drapery over the l it
shoulders The cuirass bodlco Is fitted t lure
snugly to the figure and braided with t rekc
soutache the skirt pleating being at kcm
tached to this cuirass In a novel manner m
Each pleat Is pointed and stitched over sc
the cuirass making n scalloped effect nt
the hip The overlapping sleeve layers ta
of yellow chiffon are also Interesting th
A Dream of n Ten Cont
In the brides natural
Charming negligee in
prerogative nnd no trousseau IB perfect tr
ly provided for without a boat of be
wildering lovely room garments In the
way of coquettish dressing sacques
lath and lounging robes and fetching
breakfast gowns A more formal type
of negligee Is the tea costume in which
the young matron receives her girl
friends okmay don after a tiring day
when dinner Is strictly d deux and cu
Tbo exquisite tea coat shown Is of
pure whltonet trimmed elaborately with
ynr + ls And yard of white Normnndlo Val
lace and cuiroldercl with silk dole In
puleotplnk The coat bangs over a
trailing skirt to match and both coat and
skirt are worn over a loose slip of very
soft pink silk Pink ribbon In knots and
cuds adds a pretty finish to the coat
The Wedding Dronn of Satin
Xow the wedding gown left until the
last tbough without doubt It has been In
the front of the brides thought all the
time The Juno bride may often be quite
unconventional In her choice otn wed
ding drctis nod near net loco or even a
lingerie frock but tho nutumn wedding
lu town demands the full panoply of
satin gown bridal veil and orange bio
soma The now satins are much softer
and lighter In weight than the oldfash
Toned port which could stand alone and a
creaked menacingly as tho little bride ti
went up the aisle p
A wedding gown Just Bent over from
Paris for a pretty brldo of the fall sea a
eon in Illustrated and It will be seen t
that too French couturier notwithstand
ing the popularity of the longwaisted
bodlcoe abides by tbo grace of the em
pire effect for his bridal gown The bug 1
sweep of skirt in this model is superb E
and the little bodice with n aurpllqed t
front tucked Into the girdle and the short b
smock sleeves falling over undcrsleeves
of net Is Indicative of tho best winter P
Ideas for wedding costumes At tho e
front of the skirt a straight panel
weighted by fringe falls to the feet nUll n
helps In the effect of height given by f
thlH wedding gown c
The veil Is draped In n new fashion
from the top of the coiffure fillets of
white ribbon crossing the front of the
clusters over
head with orange blossom
the temples I
II t
J i i
I t oQ

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