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The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, October 09, 1909, Part Two, Image 16

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058398/1909-10-09/ed-1/seq-16/

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Bann ier
know rra y
VY18 rI0Ti5
Dressy Frocks in Trot
tetir Length no A Touch
of Red is DashingThe
Two Hundred Dollar
Restaurant Hat Din
ner Gowns Continue to
Show Greek Effects
ONG before the big dressmaker an
nounce their exhibits of Paris
gowns nnd wraps for fnll author
tntlve hints or what Is to be are
apparent nt the fashionable dining
places and tearooms where smart font
congregate on their return to town
Country life 19 enjoyed Inter nnd Inter
r each season for the golden yellow days
of the year are oo ideal when spent out
of doors and w cncrvntlng when the for
M mantles and conventions of urban life
rA must be maintained that those who own
I country Houses cr nrc lucky enough
to have Invitations to country houses
put off as long as possible the definite re
J turn to an Indoor life There are many
y luncheon nnd tea parties however when
tho country house folk drop Into town
i for consultation with tailors and mod
Iste and often If the city house Is closed
I up n stay of RCVCTIII days Is inmlo at
y I one of the fashionable hotels to take In
n few plays and do n bit of shopping
Thus the alert observer who keeps an
1 eye out for new Ideas picks up many
j a hint from Paris frocks only Just out
I of their boxes and aired for the first
tlmo n tho little restaurant dinner or
Tho Tendency Toward Shorter
Tncso restaurant aid by tbo same
tokentheater frocks arc what tho
y + French woman calls dcmltollettes which
r J neons something more dressy than the
ulrnplc princess dress worn In the street
t yet less formal than tho Impressive
grande toilette which will he donned fpr
k tho opera or Important social functions
later In the season A majority of the
a women at Antenll on Drag Dog wore
1 skirt In trotteur length even when tbo
general style of costume wan quite elabo
y rate and while American women have
N been painstakingly holding up bothcreomo
trailing petticoats all summer the happy
Pixrislcnno In most cases has tripped
1 blithely about in skirts that allowed her
Bilkdad nuUles
This Parisian fancy for short skirts la
havlosftn inevitable effect on fall faah
q HIIS toe tur muff matched by
n hnnJfomc scarf trimmed with I
brushes and paws will nlwaya
be fnwhlonnble because of tho
comfort and richness of such a
Mt over a cloth suit there Is a tell this
season for fur combined with other mn
rerlnls even airy chiffons being used In
combination with the henry pelts
These fur and fabric combinations will
otter many suggftstiooB to women who nre
plnnnlus use hiilfworn furs on trim
ming on other gnrjconts this wjuter
Fur borders will he very fashionable on
long snits of wool njntrrlilA and Paris
is bringing out sonic stunning inodcfa of
OCK Mr Theate
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Ions In America and thoozh the long
skirt wll remain in favor for very for
mal gowns there arc many charming
frocks that escipo the carpet by nn Inch
or more all around
flowered HIblion Trim n Wool
An October bridetobe dining nt
Sherrys with her mother and flanco tho
other evening had on n delightful little
frock of violet r < epe meteor made In the
new adopted Iouls fashion with a
pannlercd overdrnpery falling over n
kilted skirt and n little round bodice
separated from the skirt portion by a
crushed girdle at the natural waistline
a decided Innovation after the heights
of Dlrcctolre and the depths of Moyen
age walatllues The bodice was cut out
In n shallow circle to show n yoke of
old cream lace and n loose upper sleeve
cut In one with tho bodice which fell
over cloiCtlttlng undoralcevcs also of
cream lace The striking feature of this
pretty frock was the border trimming
of warp printed ribbon In violet plum
ond palo pink and yellow shades which
edged the overskirt drapery nnd crossed
the bodice just nt the bust line rho
h3ttor of course u hat to match ac
companlco every rcitnurant frock design
ed by a Parisian couturier was ft wide
brimmed Charlotte model of violet beaver
felt with a folded band of velvet around
the crow and the back of the brim
turned up sharply nud caught with a
cockade of pleated molro silk also In tho
violet color This violet frock by the
n was short enoiiph to how n pair
of little suede pumps and silk stockings
A Touch of nee II 1arlMlon
Possibly as a relief from the eternal
block and whltn combinations red prom
ises to be a prime favorite not an elusive
berry or fruit red either but an un
equivocal frauk scarlet which llamcs
forth In n vivid note of color on HOIII
bar frocks This dashing tiuIi of scar
let has been Introduced by the couturiers
In embroideries pipings and even In
yokes and gulmpcs of lucked chiffon and
net A stuunlng frock worn by a young
woman who dropped In nt the Plaza
for tea tl other afternoon showed this I
scarlet touch 111 u very pleasing manner
The frock was of thin black stuff the
thinner wool materials like cashmere f
bcnrletta and even albatross being llrd
for little trottour drosses to be worn Inter I
under long coats of fur or rough serge
Time blark frock referred to was most
simply cut with graceful scmlcllnglni I
lines and had a pleated flounce set on
below the iilps
Over the frock was a
veritable little apron of bled satin tho
apron bib extending to the bust line ana
around ilnder the arms to the back of I
the bolt In soft folds Below the waist
the apron fell to the kuees and the
broadcloth and cheviot witn border trim
mlngfi of lou holred fur A green chev
iot topcoat designed by Bernhard for n
French actress Is absolutely slmplo In
line defining ChI figure slightly nt tho
west nnd flaring n trifle toward the foot
The only trimming besides the broad
baud of skunk fur which borders the
garment nil around is in the huge but
tons of shaded green enamel set In black
wood rims
Skunk has been lifted to first place In
winter popularity nnd the akin of the
despised little animal U really very soft
long and beautiful Even sealskin cents
arc trimmed with skunk borders Skunk
Is used also with Persian lamb For
muff and collar sets ono very handsome
sot of Persian iamb showing a sort of
cape with deep points hanging nt bock
and front and n huge muff with three
points along the lower edge These points
are edged nil around with skunk fur und
the effect Is very rich Dud luxurious
A new muff nnd shoulder piece mnde
of broadtull combined with black satin
ribbon are Illnstrned today The shoul
dor nIece In thin Fl Is In the new flchu
shape brought In with the Louis modes
which nre ranking headway In Paris
now These Cur fichus arc gay affair
wIth rosettes and dangling ribbons and
tassels nnd the muffs nro very largo
and it will be noted much ronnder and
fuller than the very mint effects of last
season It should not be a dliDcalt task
to contrive u pretty flchu and muff IILn
thosa Illustrated from broadtail or cnra
cul fur cut from thn brat parts of o dlv
carded garment for the fur Is simply
rowed In straight strips to the broad
soft ribbon A fairly heavy quality of
ribbon should be selected lor it will not
pay to sow tbo far to o cheap nnd sleazy
quality Fur strips should be cut with
a sharp knife from the wrong side of tho
pelt tho point of the knife slitting the
skin but not touching the fur Itself
which separates readily when the skin
Is cut Scissors however carefully used
ore apt to Injure the fur and Icnvu n
JnrgRil scraggly line along the edge of
tin strip
As wilt be seen In the photograph the I
ends of line flchu are caught together un I
dcr n full bow with long ends weighted
by tastsols A simper bow trims one cor
ner of tho muff These dangling effects
are much In vogue this fall cad tassels
both of silk anti made offur brushes
will be greatly used
I Beautiful evening wrnps of chiffon show j
border trimmings of fur skunk belug
I hero again the favorite of tho moment
These chiffon wraps with fur hands nrc
called the marabout style the light >
fluffy fur being applied to the chiffon In i
the manner of the morabout strips which
were mod on evening scarfs IniU wluter I
A superb hlnck chiffon scarf measuring j
two yards across nnd fulling to the knee
Is slurred Into n nixInch breadth In tile
center of the bnckcand Is trimmed all the
nay around the odgo with tint bands of
skunk fur a tiny pleating of imtlu rib
bon petting Just under the edge of the
fur nil nronud This ribbon pleating odds
a sumrt finish and makes the sewing
of the fur to the nllmpsy chiffon much
easier for the pleating may drat be nt
inched to tbo fur strip and tbo chiffon
then stitched on from tho reverse side
A pellSMO and muff for evening wear
over light theater frocks nro made of
gray chiffon with n mnrabout trimming
of Binoked fox fur The chiffon Is tuckqd
In deep twoInch tucka and Is laid over
soft silk of the same color The long I
pelisse fits across the shoulders at the
back reaching only to the waIstline but
lu front II hangs to the knees the ends
being gathered together under huge gray
chiffon cnnux This peJlue ax well as
the enormous softpleated chiffon muff
Is edged with hands of tho feathery
Binoicpd fox fur This set nttrncted much
attention In the eaulblllon of Paris cos
tnmes where it was displayed and there
In no reason why tbo model nhoubl not
be duplicated at home with brown chif
fon nnd mink or polo pink chiffon and
white fox fur
Fisher n fur Ignored for tqvcral seasons
son Is to be the fashionable pelt this
Greek effects
R ain Tt hez Po rr1a rf
lower corners iextmicl v back and were
tfed In n loose knot nt the back of tile
knees Tho feature of the little frocu
was the daring touch of vivid led em
broidery which outllllell the shallow open
ing at the nevi unr11I the opening was
ret a tuckedrcpSauze yoke laid over
gold not
With this cblcnftcrnoon ten frost vas
worn one of the new Russian hnzyar lints I
which the milliner dare to call tur I
bans raid which while they tower aloft
In high shako crowns of velvet nt the I
same time nre Jammed no far down over
the head that nothing above the eye I
brows and time nape of tile neck Is to In1
seen The KtiMlan turban matching the I
black nod red frock was of black velvet I
with n hrlw of black Jiwivcr and at the
right side rising from a big Jet calmchon
were two stiff bnisii aigrettes cue black
the other scarlet
The Hut n Feature of Rcstnnrnnt
The most important part of the rentnn
rant drees as an Irishman might put
ItIs the bat An authoritative Fifth
avenue milliner insists that tin hat Is
the expression and Inlerpretntlon of tint
gown nnd cwt make or tear It Some 01 I
the plunielndon chapeaux wblrh one sets
nt the height of the scaaouln the fashlon I
winter and very rich scarfs and muffs
are being shown at early openings Even
the graceful pointed foxes sot in fash
Ions highest place of favor last winter
will not be as smart this season ns fisher
which Is a dark brown fur of very silky
rich texture
MtiffR ate to bo much rounder the Ont
rug muff having reached Its climax of
HniartncSi last season Rug muffs will be
seen for of course women who 11O S CCT
costly furs do not throw them adde for
every passing whim of fashion but the
muff of the moment Is the bis cub
bear made of Missy young bear pelt
and perfectly round lu shape
nlilc dlulng places nre gorgeous affairs
miiny of them running Into hundreds uf
dollars Thlo triiy take tho breath away
from the unextrava not woman who Is
accustomed to pay up to and not over
n modest So for her very beat winter
boanet hut it Is n fact thnt many New
York milliners fire now h klnr wllbout
u qualm of scliropronch 5100 and even
foOO for thclr creations Indeed a SiO
hnt U quite II simple affair very prob
ably n modest turlmii shape decorates
with nn nlsrottc and a buckle and In
tended so ely for obopplni abc of u morn
iugOno mllllnur claiming to nppcil to pop
ular rather than very exclusive patron
age showed n list of ZI hats ordered In
one iiuirilng by a wcllIIIUII satiety
woman the total nt the foot of the lint
amounting to over 2OCO One shudders
to think of what the ollIriar pater tar
mlllns vnrulup nu ordinary salary might
say If confronted with that bill
Pan nlern and Ovorrflilrt limo v
TJem C2vert
Uound roils the funny old wheel of
fashion mid back WP come to overskirts
once more Not a hit of doubt thnt they
are here Nor only the InrKmii costumes
drxlgned for or nt hnst oonsccratcd to
pnrtliulnr occasions but the liuuiiiie scp
prate skirts for rainy day iinc with n
A 1aq U In ProcX >
of Lne Louis f > ePIod
rain coat show tunics and ovcrdrapcrics
of some sort or other
One welcomes the return of the over
skirt which Is always most graceful In
effect Tho prettiest style so for seems
to be that of n shaped tunic falling lint
ly over the blpto mind you the
dressmakers bare not fought to a tinlsi
for lilplcsanoss to rcllnriufsb It now and
showing a kilted skirt below Some
tlrnes wool skirts have these tunics put
In long points which are Cnlsbed WIt
hems of dark silk the tunic fnfltenliu at
one sldo of the front under n row of large
fancy buttons
Several graceful overskirt draperies arc
Illustrated nnd It will he noted that
some of them chow the new panniers or
hip draperies Panniers of course arc
n distinct feature of thc Louis XV und
XVI styles now being revived by the
couturiers und panniers Vnttcnu pleats
and pointed Iodlces nil promise to be
Important style developments of the
coming season The pnnnler at any rate
has coriifo to town but It Is a new and
muchsubdued pnnnler which Its anciy
tress of the eighteenth century woula
never recognize for while ladlspuMbly
a hip drapery it pnlts out not a whit In
the place where pannUr Is supposed to
be puffy but falls limply In Greeklike
folds leaving the outllnp of foe slender
slopln hip quite iusiwllcd
I One of the pnnnierud gowns shown is
of shell phi crojfc thu hip drapery opsn
lug over n pcttl < ont of pink chiffon
I Down the center front Is an embroid
I ered panel In faint pink shades and this
I rinliroldury is repeated ou the BlccTca
Jn the dccolletasi is n modesty tucker
as our grindmus called It of rich em
brolrtcry Knowing rose and coral tints
Tho hat accouipanylng this frock mr
signed for rtSlaurnnt and theater wcnr I
I Is a big shape covered with shell plus
moire silk and litriip < < J with pale pluk
I plllUICS
A funnier Driipvrj of Steel Stud
iletl Net
There Is a fnd for tunics of sheer ma
terial over ijoivns of wool or Eatln nnd
some of these sheer tunics are eabornte
ly btiuKd or studded with steel nailhcads
One of thean strel tlidded tunics la almwn
the tunic being llft Ml Into n modined
pnnnler drapery iielnw the hips The gilt
tprhg stcolwprlnkl gauze tunic fits the
rignre rallior closely over 1 own of black
8iitin and the hat repeats the steel nod
I black effect being of dark gray felt with
a darker gray velvet bund ciinsht by n
stool caluiPlion and a mass of plumed In
cold Mae shades
Another style of drapery which la at
tracting considerable attention by reason
Fashion Notes and Novelties l
HOS1 who enjoy 1tllIp In the surf
CIIOSi been carefully thought of l > y the
enterprising manufacturers Not only
nre there dlcctable suits wltU parasols
hat shoes amid reticule to mntcb but ono
way oho possess n convenient bathing suit
onsu sninct and trim to look at because
of Its leather cover brass locks nail well
I made hnndlij and lot dc fitted with vnrl
I ous poietyfor the diiposrt of small be
i longlngf Lining and pockets are of
course of rubber nnd there Is slice for
the suit and Its oecessorlesnnd n separate
1 rubber compartment to keep brushes cos
metics Iud otter toilet belongings dry and
j In good condition
Plmrl G
If VUnVBOnY knows how herd It is
tto buy pretty shoes In Paris All
1t tho shoes gold on the Continent have
qiipor Jong toes with oldfashioned
straight soles minus the awing nt the
side which makes American shoes
smart and shapely Forelm gingers com
I ing from France and Italy wear these
long pointed shoes but teen discard
them for this more attractive American
ort Now the queer longtoed French
shoes nro coming Into style again nod
sons of the new modolx have vamps
twice as long as the pumpa which have
I been worn this summer
ACI butterflies which may be pur
I II chased In motif form make charm
ILl ing trimmings for chemises night
gowns and other lingerie garments After
the lititturtiy Is applied to the nainsook
or sheer batiste the material Is cut away
underneath n fold being turned back
along the edge of the pattern and run
with hand stitches to stay the work
A simple batiste corset cover edged nt
the Cop with taco and bending Is wilde
very elaborate In effect by three pretty
lace motifs one across the bock and out
set at cither side of the front
WA OT everybody that goes ramping can
f p eujoy the luxury of ntent all to
hiJj himself but the owner of the now
canopied col may pitch his tent In any
vast wilderness and feel that ho had his
sleeping quarters nil to himself Over an
ordinary spring cot Is erected n cosy tent
top of stout khaki colored canvas No
room for snakes to crawl In between the
teat flap nnd the mattress and four handy
teut windows arranged nt north CIIt
couth and west f o that one may pop a
gum In any direction from which a coy
ote bowls The tent bed folds up conve
nlcutly Into smull compass
Do not wear gulmpos net yokes or chIt
Con frills
r Character in the Hair I
t UCH has been heard of the eyes
1I n the hands and the features as dc
llneatoiA of character but very lit
tle of the hnlr in this connection Though
It Is scarcely more than n surmise it Is
sold that 3 Jcaloux disposition und pox I
lily i nrcllablllty nro denoted by dull black
hnlr A person with light hair Is sensi
tive to criticism amid plights Good judg
ment and cowmen sense rest upon the
head of me owner of brown hair of n
deep color and firm texture Though i
women with red hair have long been
considered Imiulslvo and tactless they
also posses honesty and sincerity and
arc usually of bright sunny disposition
Straight hair is raid to be indicative of
an obstinate nryJeldlng nature It Is
not worth while to worry over these
things about hair since one cannot
change them but to grow facetious lOI
n minute it might be well to remember
these points In ace you ever Lnvu to
I purchase a strand or two
I of Its odd name la the washerwoman or
fishmonger skirt The eccentricity of the i
style Is however mainly In the name +
for the skirt itself la really very grace
ful and not nt nil snggestlvo of either
fishmonger or washerwoman An over
skirt cooing to the knees Is turned back
to show a petticoat which Just escapes
the floor null there nre iwjvcrnl ways of
expressing the new skirt Sometimes the
drapery is of a material contrasting with
the skirt sometimes drapery and skirt
are alike while thn turnedfback portion
11 faced with silk or satin One clever
lavcuao costume has the turnidup portion
cutout In tnbs which nre caught to the
drapery by Jet buttons n soft satin snsb +
running beneath the tabs being knotted
ncroso the buci breadth at the height of
the knee
V Quaint Gown Froru tho Louis
Another dinner dress which may be i
worn for home as well nj restaurant ban 3
quets Is a Pnquln model expressing the
revived Louis XVI male In this gown
the shirred petticoat attached ton pointed
IxKJlce the slecvo opening over nn under
sleeve of contrasting material the very i
low dceollctngo eked out with a act
tic f er are nil significant style features i
which have a inclining for the saitorlilly
elect This costume has aroused much
Inlerest buth In Pnrig and America as
the style Is so directly opposed to every
Jjlug that huH prevailed In fashion of
11 te
A Graceful Creole Dinner Contnnie
Though Dlrectoire effects died a hard
death they have itally passed at last mini
n blessed oblivion nnd only n few memo
ries remain to tell of their reign a
awakened appreciation for tho beauty of
pure Greek effects hI one of the happy
results of the Dlrcctolro revival and r
many of the Dew Paris evening frocks
for fall show mcdiacatlon of tho Grw
types A meek drapery of cblffoc over
embroidered satin makes n gown of superb
beauty illustrated today This satla
gown was Jlrst Kent to Japan rvlierv tho
marvelous fiat embroidery was done the
rewlcl vns then built In Paris and gotvn
urd hat were sent to America to a dark
haired young matron wlo will wear It
nt the op rn this winter The cnstume Is
In pale yellow a color that will hecx
trcmely fashionable this fioason and the
Greek WnllofTroy embroidery on the
drapery Is In shadow work which makes
the pattern stand out in strong relief
against tile gold threads which form Use
Best u The bat Is loaded down with
tnwrr wllow ninnies
yrv ATE fad Is the metal monogram
r attached In buckle effect to the
zaz front of pump or lancing Hllpper
Somo of these monograms are quite large
tint the daintiest styles cover no moro
spate than a silver quarter would do and
the letters are Intertwined or so arranged F
that a round or oral shape Is given tho
monogram Gilt = dull silver gun metal
and bronze monograms nro all used uad
usually the ornament applied on a dat
pump bow of ribbon
1 <
c J

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