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The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, October 23, 1909, Part Two, Image 9

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Pages 9aCa1 t THE GDEN STANDARD Eii a Two
Outfitting tor the Dash I
i from the John R0 Bradley
f Bartering with Eskimos
istory of an Arctic Expedition That Vas Born With
out Bombast or Clamor No Government Help
j or Private Contributions Asked or Sought
Then Comes the Ice Piled on the Shores of Cape York and
the Expedition Is Compelled to Turn and Set a
Course for the Next Village at North Star Bay
Two Tons of Blubber from Walrus Herd Are Turned Over
to the Eskimo Allies While Roast Eider Duck Is a
Delicate Dish for the Explorer and His Party I
Copyright 1909 by the New York Herald Company
Registered in Canada in accordance with the opyright Act
Copyright in Mexico under the laws ol the Republic of Mexico
All rights reserved
When Dr Frederick A Cook cabled to the Herald from Lerwick
in the Shetland Islands on Wednesday September 1 the pulse stir
ring announcement that after a prolonged fight against famine and
frost he had succeeded in reaching the North Pole the public read
with avidity every detail oft his wonderful narrative of suffering
endured that mankind might learn from it and literature be enriched
by the annals of his successful fjght to the top of the world
I Herald readers were proud that the explorer had found a jiew
land They marvelled when told of sunburns and frostbites in the
same day shivered as they read how dog ate dog that the fittest
might survive and accompanied him in fancy to the region beyond
where life is where he felt the maddening influence of the desert of
ice until after incredible efforts he reached the goal and placed the
American flag in a tin tube on the shifting ice of the ninetieth
parallel to use his own words Amid an endless field of purple
snows where there was neither life nor land where he and his two
Eskimos were the only living creatures
It is worthy of note that Commander Pearys impressions of the
pole were like those of Dr Cook disappointing There was noth
ing striking to be seen nothing to stimulate enthusiasm but hey
had pierced the boreal cenire When his story was made public
through the Herald the world thrilled by the narration hailed him
as a discoverer
A Test of Truth
But a few newspapers and partisans of another Arctic enter
prise denied its truth although they accept without question the
equally marvellous story furnished later by Commander Robert KI
Peary These critics said no man could make fifteen miles a day
beyond the eightieth parallel But Commander Peary has done more
than that
They scoffed at dancing horizons and mirages that turned things
topsy turvy But Commander Peary makes corroborating allusion
to the same curious atmospheric effects created in higher latitudes
by the diffused light which seemed to come from all directions jit1
once j
Indeed although the Herald is not partisan its mission being t
to got the news and print it first it cannot overlook the fact that 1
Commander Peary notwithstanding his protests and charges
against Dr Cook confirms in many vital details the ruth of the
Brooklyn explorers narrative I
Other critics have declared that Dr Cook was unprepared
whereas facts furnished by his barker and friend Mr John It Brad
ley in July 1908 show that the expedition was carefully planned l
and thoroughly equipped with dogs sleds pemmican and other
necessities of polar exploration
With this brief summary the Herald presents today the be
ginning of Dr Cooks remarkable story of his conquest of the North
written while a prisoner the snow and ice and will continue its
publication in chapters on alternate days thus placing him before
the world which in his case is the jury that will declare upon his
claim that he preceded Commander Pearv to the boreal centre and l
Is therefore the discoverer of the North Pole
Copyright 1909 by tbe Now York Jlenild Company
registered in Canada In accordance with the Copyrfpht Act
Copyright In Mexico tinder the laws of the Republic If 1ra
All Right Reserved i
j The Conquest of the Pole
i Bv Dr Frederick A Cook I
The expedition w UJI equipped at
Gloucester Mass All was ready on the
evening of July 3 1007 Ashore bojt
wore testing their fireworksfor the mor
row of celebration but aboard aHour I
vessel the John It Bradley withdrew
from the pier nil was quietThcre were
DO visiting crowd curiosity seeker
Dot tooting of whistles signalled our de
An Arctic expedition hnd been born
without the iiKiial public bombnrt There
van indeed no excuse for clhmor Neither
tin help of the government nor lie con
tributions of a private individual hud
Wn sought The projeet was quietly
liven life and its expeiiKts wore paid by
fohn R Bradley Jts destiny was ehnpod
> y ho writer I
Mr Bradley was inioovtcil in game
inimuls of the North 1 was interested
In the game of the polar quest For the
time b ing he biHliiut concerned us only
If the yenlure proved biifctoful their i
would he lime enough to raise lm banner I
of victory If it failed none bad thi
merited abuse which ute IIJJ W < IK o the 1
returning polar tiateller
As wo headed for the boreal wild and
ploughed with witisfying force the chilled
northern waters here ring time fo ic
e the equipment and review
prospective contingencies of the campaign
In a brief month all had boon prepared
for the peculiar mission We had pur
chased u strong Gloucester Sahiig
schooucr fitted with n motor oovcr d for
ice and loaded down with siiilahl sup
plies for a prolonged period J
One morning the bold dims of Cape
lorl > were dimly outlined in i5i r j
mist which pcrfrueil the III µ d A 4 form
v hid carried HO m aclt 1te acniiut the
Lciast that a near approach was impOBft
hit rind rootinijed winds kept np a Fee J
i which made it equally a difficulty to laiij
I on the ice j
t tt XorMi ShrJ1ttl 1
I QMm b ann i to meet tlIQ natSrej 1l
tPnnr > lori t e < forced a turn erftj
14Pt It J r < fn rr 7nl v V
Star Eay At noon the Srt iojJ < p
= =
I c
t tJpIAIHr Or Nr Nltl JD Gt AJ A µ n lLlllh h
I row breaks we saw the sleep slopes ands
I warm color of crimson cliffs resting in
the rising water
I Darting through the air were countless
II giiillemoK gulls little auks and cider
I ducks Vc were in the Icy free north
waters where creatures of the sea find
a marine oasis in midftt of a polar desert
The const was about two thousand feed
high pJdently the remains of tin old I
tableland which extends u considerable
I distance northward
Here mid there were short glaciers I
I which had cut down the cliffs in their
eQort to push to the sea level
Beyond the long straight line of red
cliffs a conical rock the navigators sign
post rose from the deep Soon the long
if wall of IJetp wik J ja ier rose and lte
youd to thtT ei1sN nnl Wllere k dtlll
waving white of the overland sea of Ice I
which submerges the interior of all
j This kiiiJ of const extends poleward lo
I the lands end It is the abundant sea
life which makes human hnbitntion just
I possible here though land animals area
j also impuilant
I The people of the farthest north are I
J crowded into a natural reservation by the
Arctic ice wall of Melville Bay in the
south and the stupendous line of cliffs
of Humboldt Glacier in the north
This const ozlond Ocr but three de
I grees of latitude but with its many bajs i 1
and the great fjords of olstlliholmc
Sound u lid Injrlefield Gulf the sea Use ib
I drawn out lo about four thousand mires
Home of tin Iklntnv
l Videly catlerpd in small Tillages the
northernmost KhUinio finds here n good
living A nanow band of rocky land be
tween the land ice and the sea offers
grasses upon which feed pttirmigan hare
and euribou I
Numerous cliffy and islands afford at
resting place in summer for myiiiids of I
iniuine birds that seek the small lift of the
icy waters Blue and white fo wander
everywhere Seal walrus miiwahl and
whilJ whale sport In the summer sun
while the bear king of the polar wilds
roams over ihe sea nt all times I
Seeking abundant Rune tlii little tribe
of most primitive mini tloob not feel his
hopeless isolation I
The yacht dodged Ihe icebergs and dan
serous rocks in the fog about Cape Athol
tlien turned eastward to cross VoUicn
holme Sound
As WI neared Table Mountain which
guards North Star Bay mnuy natives
cue out in kayaks to meet its Smile were
ncogni7ed as old frjuds There was
M > ah he of ninny wives and Oobloiah
who had executed Angodsihsuh styled the
illlnin by Gibstm at liidrliffe House and
Iincoota hrsbnnd of tle Masco in wltoc
fnniily ire ir > be fmilid the only hybrid
children of the tribe
Ljidi ICnurl Kadmimseti a Danish
writer living ax n native among the peo
plo caiiit nboaid With him IP sot bet
ter acQiinmled during the winter
Our entfiiicn n ere disabled by a loos
WiT < lIinl joint so wo lowered a launch
and two doiicj to low the jneht In n
safe anchonse At high tide the vessel
wna grounded n propeller which hail
Iiecn bent was atrnixhtiiied and the uni
rental joint put to rights
Tit tIll inenntime the launch was kept
mailing to and fro with Mr Bradley
nd the writer n s > asfien frs On shore
fife harnonu gisii wall tried and around the
bay waters We hugged a number of eider
IsMnu loin VlNltcil I
r ato al nislij n visit wan made lo the
town of Ooiuinooi
lUll There were seven
angular sonlnkin tents cotnenlontly I
placed on picturesque rocks Gathered
about tiiese in large numbers were men
women mid children slmcrlng in the mid
night chill
They wore odd looking specimens of
height the men averaged
but live feet Iwo JJwhlK
0 JIll the women
four fret ten Jneing All had broad fir
face hcjirr trun and well rounded
limbs TluMr kin
J1 was IJ btly bronzed I
Ifh and wonuAp
coal thick hair and
brown eye 1 The noise vns short all i
t > litfnds nd frtt frrre phorr bur thick
A grrml truin was fOllrl at oerv I
tent o eriiUg ready to reeive the visitors
liyliin form 11r r ta red rind had a short I
chat wiu ih fw El +
tire xrsfa not mi h n u < lo stela t I
44t < r we hld fir
iM if mar
i i 1 ha 0
5H rrjc I Lc ti
r r
P3 a p rid nf nionogniy M rn
h i p fjj
I 5Coox ANA CGJwJt ti1 f NOYC11CD ARAnVt JJ I
PAlAcc or rrzvs rzfi or ZA Ai7t
LOO fA Owr r A p C aA IIr N7J frJpr6p
one other man in the tribe with two
Women were rather scarce Several
mairiiizeable men were forced to forego
i the nihaiilage of married life because
there tcn not enough wives for all Bj
milt ual agreement wroral men bud ex
Chinced wires in otlier cases women had
choc cii other partners and the elianges
were made seentiugly to the ndnntage of
all for no regrets there presetl
With no In v no literature Mill no fixed
custom to fasten the matt iwoniul bond
these simple but intelligent people coot tol
their destinies with remarkable success
There was nil ixerige of three fat
clever children for each family the young
eNl as n rule resting in a pocket Oil the
mothers hack
Dvrelllnus of the nikiiriOM
rite lent had a raised platform npnn
which all slept nic edge of this made
buinedvvith moss as a wick Over this I
was a tnyiiig rack and there was > other
Tli djess of furs gave the Eskimos
a look of savage fieiceness which their
kindly faces and easy tempentmcnt did
iot warrant
Cfn hoard the yacht there had been busy
days of barter Furs and ivory had h < en
gathered in heaps in exchange for guns
kuies and needles Every sea inin front
cabin hey to captain had stddenlr got
rich in the gamble of trade for prized blue
fox skins and narwald tusk
The llhkmios were equall elated with
their end of the bargain Koi it beautiful
fox skin of less use lo the native limn
a dog pelt IIP hid secured a Pocket knife
hat would eive him half a lifetime
A woman had exchanged her fur pants
worth hundred dollars for a red pocket
handkerchief with which she would dec
11L1rtYiCA yalTr ic Arl x m 31 + cL T j ttt2YlLa Ca1iJ
Z c L i 4 1 r J F 7j4 J o etit nC 117 r AGGN rArr
i Jj
On to the North the Word
as Cape Parry Is Passed
in a Search for Guides
e J
Eskimo Men Much in Demand Mr Bradley Does Some
Visiting with Old Friends and the Yacht Is Kept
Busy Calling at One Village or Another
a seat nnd on each side were placed
stone lamps in which blubber was
orate her head and igloo for years to
Another had given her bearskin mitts
for needles and conveyed the idea that
she hud the long end of the trade A fat
youth with only a smile displaced with
glee two bright tin cups one for himself
and one for his prospective bride All of
this glitter had been received in exchange
for an ordinary ivory born worth about
uillcty dollars
The Ynrlit coin wont
The midnight tide lifted the yacht on an
even keel from her makeshift dry dock on
the beach and she was pulled out into the
bay and anchored for a few hours Ooma
noi was but one of six villages in which
the tribe had divided its two hundred and
fifty people for the current season
To study the people to further oncour
age the game of barter nod lo enjoy the
n rt sport of yachting and hunting in
mans northernmost haunts we prepared
to iislt as many villages as possible
In the morning the anchor was raised
and the yacht < = ot jail in a light wind head
ed for more northern villages It was a
gray day with a quiet sea The speed of 1
the yacht was not fast enough to be excit
ing so Mr Bradley suggested lowering
the launch for a crack at ducks or a chase
of walrus or a drive at anything that hap
pened to cut the Waters
The harpoon gun was taken as it was
hoped that a whale might come our way
but the gun proved unsatisfactory nail
did not contribute much to our sport We
were able to run all around the yacht as
she slowly sailed over Wolstcnholme
Dnek were secured in Abundance Seals
were given chase but they were able to
escape our craft Nearing Saunders
Island a herd of walrus was seen on n
pan of drift ice far ahead of the yacht
The magneto was pushed the carburetor
opened lull out we rushed after the
shouting beasts I
Two with splendid tusks were obtained
and two tOilS of meat blubber wore turned
l ovii to our Eskimo allies I
The days of hunting proved quite
I strenuous and in the evening we were
glad to seek the comfort of our cospy1
cabins when roast eider duck had filled
a large gap i
An Unktmo AVtdoivVi tory
Among the Eskimo passengers pacing
the deck was n widow who in tears told
us the story of her life a story which
offered a peep into the comedy and
tragedy of Eskimo existence She had
arranged a den under n shelter of seal
skins among the anchor chains We had
offered her a large bed with straw in it
and n place between decks as a better
nest for her brood of youngsters but she
refused saying she preferred the open
air on deck
To my question as to how the world
had used her she burled her face in her
hands and began to mutter to her two
boys the youngest just in pint 1 knew
her early history so could understand bur
I story without hearing all her words be t
L teen sobs
She had come from American shores
and as a foreign belle her bund was
sought early At thirteen Ikwa intro
duced her to xa wedded life not strewn
with blubber lie was cruel and not
always truthful a sin for which his
uioilier the augikok or doctor was with
out his consent put out of harms way
t Iwu girls graced their home One was I
now married When the youngest Was
out of her hood Ikwa took the children I
mil incited her to leave saying that he
ad taken to wife Ahtnli u plump maid
ud a good seamstress I
Maiiee had neither advantage but she
ew something of human nature and
on found another husband u good deal
br but better than the first Their t
ewas u hard one for Xordiiigwnh wag
i n good hunter but their home was
cable quiet and hnppy Two children
livened it Both were at her side on
r yacht n boy of eight the only deaf
id dumb Eskimo in nil the land and u
in laic weakling of three
A Tragedy of the Vrctlc
Both had been condemned by tho Es
mo huv of the survival of the fittest the
it because of insufficient senses and
econd because it was under three and
on its mothers back when the father
I d away They were not to partic
in the strife of life But on un
I mother loved them
few days before the previous winter
ild father anxious to provide warm
kin for the prolonged night had
tired ulone far up into the mount
His Jon went off accidentally
he never returned
no executor of the brother of Mnnees
nor husband was kind to her for the
night and kept famine from her
f In the summer day she had been
to keep herself bnt who could pro
for her for the night to come Her
resource was to seek tho chilled
rt of her former husband and we
e performing the unpleasant mission
nklng her to him as wife No 2
Then Tve later saw Ikwn he did not
ink us for the trouble vc had taken
nt we hoc expected no reward
The speed of the yacht increased an
be night advanced A snow squall
frosted the decks and to escape the icy I
i we sought our warm berths early
At four oclock iu 11u mqrnjne the SrtI
In n few moments the
changed to summer glories
At this time we passed tbe ice battered
and storm swept cliff of Cape Parry
Beyond was Whale Sound On a sea of
gold strewn with ice Islands of ultra
marine nnd alabaster whales spouted
and walrus shouted
grampus was
out early for a light Largo flocks of
little auks rushed over on hurried mis
Knlerlnpr Inclcflrlil Gulf I
The wind was light but the engines
pulled UP along at a pace just fast enough
to allow us to enjoy the superb surround
ings In the afternoon we were well into
Jnglcficld Gulf and there
near Ittiblu there teas
a strong bend wind and enough ice iliout
I to engage the eye of the lookout
We aimed here to secure Eskimo guides
and with them seek caribou in OlricR
Bay While the yacht wns tacking for
favorable berth in the drift off Kancii tin
munch was lowered and we sough to n
tcmew the Eskimos of Ittiblu The ruli
was n wet one and Mr Bradley had tlf h
first important use for his raincoat as a
hort choppy sea poured icy spray OCt
use and tumbled us about with vigorous
There were only one woman a few
children nnd about a score of dogs at the
place The woman bilked quickly and ex
plained at some length that her husband
and others were away on n caribou hunt
and she told us without a leading ques
tion the news of the tribe for a year
I After gasping for breath like a smoth
ered seal she began with news of pre
vious years and a history of the forgotten
agerWe started back for the launcl
and she invited hcnelE to the leaaurc ol
our company to the beach
An Eftldmo Trad
We had gone only a few steps before
it occurred to her that she was in nee
of something Would we not give her i
I few boxes of matches in exchange for t
iiarwnhl tusk We would be delighted
said Mr Bradley and a handful of
sweets that went with the bargain HCJ
Igor brought down two ivory tusks eaci
height feet in length The two were worth
one hundred nsd fifty dollars
Had we a knife to spare 7 Yea Rod i
tin spoou was also given Just to ehoq
that We were liberal
The yacht was headed northward
across Ingleficld Gulf This made foil
wind nnd we cut tumbling seas of ebon
with a racing dnah Though the wiun
was strong the air wns remarkably clear
The great chiselled cliffs of Cape Ack
land rose in terraced grandeur under tlue
midnight sun The distance over was
twelve miles but we bad hardly finished
last evening the series of submerged
rocks and shallow water
It is necessary for deep lea craft te
give Karnab a wide berth There wen
bergs enough about to hold the water
down though an occasional sea rose with
a sickening thump
The launch towed the dory of which
I Mance nail her children were the onlj
occupants Wo preferred to sivo her th
luxury oath privacy of a separate convey
ance for several reasons the most impor
I tant being the necessity of affording roour
I for her dogs and her household furniture
jcousisting of three bundles of skins an
I sticks
Karnah was to be her future homo and
ns we neared the shore we tried to locate
Ikwa but there was not a man in town
Five women fifteen children and forty
five dogs came out to meet us The men
were on n hunting campaign and their lo o
cation was not exactly known
Attahtimgwah Manecs rival a fat un
sociable creature stood on a useful ston
where we chose to land and did not ao
commodate us with footing on the sam
platform She had not seen Mince fot
seven years but she scented the game an <
gave us the cold shoulder for the part we
had innocently played in It Ikwa war
not there so no open breach of etiquette
could be possible
A Thrifty E klmo Camp
There were five nealskin tents pitched
among the bowlders of a glacial stream
An immense quantity narwohl men
was placed on tho row and stones U
dry Skins were stretched on the eras
and a general air of thrift was oLout
about the place
Bundles of sealskin package of pelt
and much ivory were brought out to trade
and establish friendly Intercourse We
gave them sugar tobacco and ammunition
iu quantities to suit their own estimate of
The fat woman entered her tent and wf
saw no more of her during our stay tot
i she did not venture to trade 8 s did the
others Mnnee was kindly treated by the
other village folk and a pot steaming with
oily meat was soon erred In her honor
We were cordially invited to partake of
the feast but had a convenient excuse
jutt having finished a meaL
Would we not place ouiselrcs at rase
and stay for a day or two as their bus
hands would soon return We were
forced to decline their hospitality for
without the harbor there was too much
wind to keep the yacht waiting
Eskimos hive no nrtitem of Habitation
except a erecting smile or a parting look
of regret We got both nt the same time
as we stepped into the launch and shout
ed cood by
Aboard the captain was told to proceed
to Capo Robertson The wind eased a
fog came over from the inland ice and
blotted nut he landscape down to about
n Ihousind feet but under this the air
was clear

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