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The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, November 06, 1909, Part Two, Image 11

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T l 1 O J l J fl Sl Ol T E G B
i 0 0 C IA LLJ I E 0 o a E a iec 0 mz
HIS is to be without question
THIS of the greatest fur seasons
of recent years Our Paris
1 1 correspondent writes that the
pay capital is simply going mad on furs
and that everyone who is anyone wears
them constantly One can readily un
derstand the fascination
of these gar
m ments for in addition to their warmth
there is the subtle something which one
can explain only in the mere fact that
nestling about ones neck is the pelt of
a dangerous beast for which lives have
been risked To us women with our
primitive halfconscious instinct the
tamest fur muff has all the value of a
I am showing herewith some of the
te ° recent French models They arc enough
ti to delight the soul of the most fas
tidious of women
ErmIno Evening Cape Xaco Trimmed
There is something majestic about
p ermine fur being the fur of royally
ti as it is The opera cape and muff shown
here are of unusual beauty The cape
1t is made of the first quality ermine and
trimmed in a beautiful pattern of silk
lace outlined with embroidery The
j evening gown with which it is worn is
1 one of the latest Parisian creations and
4 is a wonderful achievement in sartorial
Beautiful Jacket and Muff of Eusslan Sable
An afternoon reception wrap is this
handsomc Russian sable coat One of
its attractions is its roominess both in
body and sleeves It will therefore not
crush the gowns with which it is worn
A quilling of chiffon bordered with
three rows of baby ribbon falls from
the sleeves The muff also has the
hiffon trimming and is one of ideal
I Stunning Wink Coat Muff and Hat
F This beautiful threequarters coat of
mink is the smartest Parisian style in
furs for the coming winter season The
lines arc graceful and the garment Is
roomy enough not to weigh and wrinkle
he gown with which it is worn There
is a design of embroidery that shows at
the throat This turban of mink is
trimmed with two short full feathers
The muff is very handsome and trimmed
r with twelve tails
Black Lynx Muff and Neokpleco
An everread and beautiful fur is
r Black Lynx and because it can be worn
with any color costume or wrap it is
i decidedly practical as well as smart and
r good style The neckpiece is wide and
very long the comfy muff is of flat
pillow style The turban is of lynx and
trimmed in black aigrettes
t White For Muff Hat and Jfookploco
This hat is a medium crown and brim
1 and trimmed in an immense white rose
4 and green foliage
I For matinee or an afternoon recep
tion nothing could be more appropriate
and charming in effect than this set of
while fox The neckpiece a long scarf
is decorated with numerous fox
brushes The muff is made of two fine
skins with heads and tails thrown over
a foundation of white satin
How to Repair or Remodel Furs
The furriers is a trade quite dis
tinct from the tailors and requires a
thorough knowledge of all its tricks and
processes to produce good work No
one without experience is likely to
venture the making of an entire gar
ment directly from the skins but a
knowledge of how to repair and do
simple remodeling may often save time
t and money It is inadvisable to ex
periment with valuable furs it will be
truer economy to send them to a re
sponsible furrier
The fortunate possessor of a fur coat
t naturally expects it to last a number
1 of winters If a simple model is
selected there is unlikely to be suffi
t cient change in style to make it notice
ably unfashionable with the single ex
ception of the sleeves Such a coat
bought two years ago is not oldfash
l ioned this winter except that the sleeves
seem very large in this season of small
The furriers charge for remodeling
the sleeves will add considerably to the
sum invested in the coat Anyone who
knows enough of dressmaking to make a
success under similar circumstances
with cloth sleeves may safely undertake
the same task in fur by carefully fol
lowing the fur methods which I shall
describe A neckpiece muff either
through long service or lack of proper
precaution in packing away for the sum
mer may seem practically hopeless yet
enough good spots may remain to make
a small cravat if they arc properly joined
Gutting and Sowing Fur
The process of cutting and sewing fur
is entirely different from that for cloth
and must be well understood It can
never be cut with scissors as the pelt
only must be severed A sharp knife is
used and even then care must be ob
served not to cut through the fur which
will overlap and later conceal the scam
It is of utmost importance that the fur
shall all run one way
In shorthaired fursseal ermine and
the likethis should be upward corre
sponding to the nap of velvet Long
haired furs must be cut to run down
ward Fur work has this advantage
over cloth patches and pieces may be
inset or added anywhere the smallest
Methods for Preserving and Beautifying These Ad
I juncts to Good Looks
BEAUTIFUL set of teeth will
1 A redeem a face that would oth
L erwise be positively plain But
r D it is not only for good looks
that a fine set of teeth is desirable but
for the health since perfect mastica
tion of the food is essential for health
If the food is not sufficiently reduced
to a pulp when it is swallowed and given
to the slomachj that organ is not able
to accomplish its work so indigestion
and fermentation take place and the sys
tem is poisoned The result is soon
shown in the skin especially the skin of
the face and pimples are often the re
sult The advocates of perfect mastication
Fletcherism as it is called from Dr
Fletcher its great exponent claim that
almost all the ills of life are occasioned
by bolting the food and that one should
chew a morsel at least thirty times be
4 fore swallowing it stating further that
if this practice is followed the fat will
become symmetrically thin and the thin
will acquire the right amount of flesh
In order to attain these desirable re
f i sults a good set of teeth is of the great
est aid and as is often the case with
most of our blessings they arc not ap
preciated until they take their flight It
is true artificial teeth are a great help
improving the looks and an assistance
in eating but for service they arc to
natural teeth what a rushlight is to
electricity One cannot be too careful
or painstaking in preserving the teeth
m Besln Ccro In Childhood
Mothers should feel that they owe it
to their children to look after their i
teeth If they are not coining in straight
they should have a dentists care while
t the child is young The jaws can then
be formed so that the teeth will corne
as they should It has been found that
if the jaws arc not shaped right that
the development of the bones of the
rest of the skull will not take place as
they should and the result is that the
brain development is interfered with
and the features of the face will not
be regular
A whole chapter could be written
upon the way the teeth should be looked
after at the time of their coming and
while children are young but I wish to
direct your attention particularly at this
time to the necessity of keeping the teeth I
clean both for the sake of good looks
and for their preservation
Consult Your Dontltt
The teeth of individuals vary greatly
and consequently demand different
measures to keep them clean The ad
vice of the dentist should be sought in
regard to the matter Those who have
perfectly regular teeth the gums of
which arc closed nicely about them will
not find it such a difficult matter to
cleanse the teeth as those whose teeth
are irregular especially if they have I
pockets in the gums made by the in
flammation about the teeth
As a general thing the toothbrush
should be hard and stiff in order to
cleanse the teeth well A good tooth
powder paste or liquid should be chosen
by the advice of the dentist who cares
for the teeth or one should be used that
you have found beneficial Those which
have plenty of soap are bestin fact
if it were not for the taste ordinary
toilet soap would answer very well
After brushing the teeth the soap
should be rinsed thoroughly away One
should have a good mout wash stand
ing oil the toilet table handy in a cov
ered glass so that after eating any
thing the mouth can be washed clean
A saturated solution of boric acid makes
a good and inexpensive wash
Core Sentltlvo Teeth
If the teeth are sensitive a wash of
bicarmonate of soda is excellent a tea
spoonful to a glassful of water It is
scraps providing they can be made to
match may be utilized Fine fur is like
goldno scrap is small enough to be
thrown away
The pelt side of the finest fur gar
ments shows many of these finelysewed
scams and the less expensive pieces pre
sent a perfect network of scams show
ing the joinings of the scraps cut from
the large skins
Preparing a Pattern
Whatever is to be made whether I
jacket neckpiece or muffshould first
be cut from canvas duck or crinoline I
and fitted that no alterations in the fur
may be necessary A coat should be cut
in the fitting material from a good coat
pattern The scams must be carefully I
rectified after fitting rebasted and tried
on again
When all is absolutely correct cut the I
pieces apart exactly in the sewing lines
best to rinse the mouth thoroughly be
fore brushing the teeth for that will
remove the larger particles of food
which have accumulated Tooth brushes
should be cleansed thoroughly after use
and after they have been washed they
should be dipped in very hot water and
dried in the sun Most people use a
tooth brush too long After awhile the
points of the bristles become sharp and
jagged and irritate and bruise the gums
Then too in spile of care they become
One should have a fresh tooth brush
for these reasons as often as once a
month A London doctor thinks that
Americans depend too much on cleans
ing the teeth with brushes I do not
think so but I think too many are care
less in the use of the brushes and do
not use them in the right way and do
not renew the brushes often enough
Care of tho Gums
Around the gums and between the
teeth just where the food accumulates
the most arc the places which arc the
most difficult to clean and often when a
brush is used most conscientiously these
parts arc left untouched and decay
takes place rapidly A very nice way to
keep these places clean is to make a I
swab by winding a bit of absorbent cot I I
ton around the end of a toothpick and
then dip it into the toothwash and go
carefully about the gums where they
join the teeth
It will be a surprise and delight to
find how much the gums will improve
with this process and how much cleaner
one can keep the teeth and prevent the
tartar from forming To cleanse be
tween the teeth use a toothpick or
run dental floss between them The acid
of fruits will cleanse the teeth The
same London dentist thinks there is
nothing like apples for cleansing the I
teeth lie says they arc much better
than tooth brushes He was led to this I
discovery by finding a woman of ninety I
with a wonderful number of wellpre
served teeth who had eaten apples all
her life
Bomovn1 of Tartar
In spite of the greatest attention tar
tar will collect on some teeth and then
and use as a pattern for cutting the fur
Each piece must be cut to shape by the
pattern but only a scant eighth of an
inch need be allowed for scams They
arc all overcast or ovcrhandcd scams
and only enough margin at each edge to
secure a good unlcarablc hold for the
needle is > required
the dentists care is needed The tartar
will form with incredible rapidity in
some mouths but if one would preserve
the teeth and escape that bane Rigs
disease by whichis meant inflammation
of the sockets of the teeth which causes
loosening of the teeth and their final
loss while still undccaycd one must be
vigilant and call ill the frequent aid of
the dentist
Ace Affect Teeth
In speaking of the discoloration of
the teeth and its correction 1 am an
swering a number of letters which I
will not take the space to print Teeth
arc apt to change color and become
darker as one grows older A tooth
that is dark and discolored from im
proper filling or decay can be bleached
and improved greatly by a dentist who
understands the process and most good
dentists do The deposit of green which
is frequently seen at the junction of the
front teeth with the gums and gives a
very unsightly anpearancc to the teeth
is due to the deposit of coloring mat
ter in the enamel of the teeth
The superficial surface of the enamel
is very irregular and the coloring matter
from the food is deposited in these
places Sonic think that this causes
rapid decay of the teeth but dentists say
that such is not the case However the
sooner it is gotten rid of the better A
dentist can remove it and then polish
the irregular surface of the enamel so
that it will not come again If it is not
too deep one can remove it for ones
Take powdered pumicestone add to
it a few drops of glycerine and apply it
with an orangewood stick rubbing and
polishing the tooth until the stain is re
moved When the teeth arc yellow or
darkened they can be cleansed and pol
ished in the same manner by the use of
the pumice and the orangewood stick
Do Not Let Your Shop Become a
Loafing Place
DoNot Argue with Angry Cus
tomers Soothe Them
Keep Your Personal Affairs in
the Background
The fur from which each section is to
be cut must be tacked furside down to
a board stretching it smoothly the pat
tern is then laid on and marked around
with chalknot forgetting the sewing
allowance The balkline forms the
cuttingline As a I Slav for joining the
construction scams not the piecing
T each cover place a delicate
AT cqgctip filled with hepaticas
I violets or other wild flowers
if obtainable
As a ccntcrpieconothingcould be pret
tier thai a flat dish of wild violets mixed
with eddy wVxxl ferns These look
more natural f taken up roots and all
I and after doing duty as a table decora
I tion they can be transplanted to a shady
nook in the garden If so fortunate as
I to possess a brass leaf wind harp from
the Chinese quarter suspend it from the
diningroom center light and the sing
ing leaves will tinkle sweet music at
every breath of air
Two menus arc here given neither of
them very difficult to prepare and both
very appetizing
Potato Soup with Egg Balls
Deviled Crabs Omelet in Batter
Egg amyl Potato Salad
Egg Crackers Hot Runs
Custard Tarts or Lemon Custard
Lady Pingcis I
IceCieam in Egg holds
Creamed Soap with Egg Noodles
Oyster Fritters
Rusk Breadsticks Egg Crackers
Sirred Ecgs
Pond Lily Salad
Eg N cst Pudding in Eggshell tfolds
Whipped Cream and While of Egg
Sauce with Crated Maple Sugar
Lemonade Shake
Tho Egg Balls
Arc made by mashing the yolks of
boiled for
four eggs which have been
thirty minutes with the yolk of one raw
egg and one teaspoon f til of flour pepper
salt and cjioppcd parsley Make into
balls and boil in the soup for two min
Egg Noodle tor Cream Soup
Rub Tnto < two tvell beaten eggs as
scams narrow black tape must be
basted flat on the pelt one edge of the
tape even with the scamedge of the
section and the needle in making the
overcasting stitch goes through both
pelt and tape For squirrel or other fur
having a similarly thin tender skin both
edges of each piece may be taped in
this manner but for stronger pelts the
tape at one edge of each joining seam
will be sufficient
Sowing Fur
By reason of the furs coining through
to the underside between the two pelt
edges and interfering in the sewing an
amateur is apt to hold the two portions
flat and draw them together with the
thread this is incorrect and a bad
practice as it is very likely to tear the
edges The two portions must be
brought together with the fur surfaces
facing and the scam held and over
handed just as would be two selvages of
cotton cloth in plain sewing
The resulting scam forms a small
ridge Furriers use a special sewing
machine into which the fur is fed in
this position and in sewing by hand the
same method is applied While the
stitches must be tight enough to keep
smooth they must not be too tightly
drawn else they will tear the skin
Use cotton never silk Thread about
No 50 taken double will give strength
to the scam and permit the use of a line
Unique and Delightful Function Possible with
Small Outlay I
much sifted flour and as little salt as
they will absorb roll out thin as a
wafer dust over a little flour then roll
over and over like a jelly roll Cut off
very thin slices from end of the roll
shake out into long strips and put into
the boiling soup Cook about two min
Deviled Crabs
Two tablespoonfuls fine breadcrumbs
yolks of Iwo hardbqiled eggs juice of
one lemon half a teaspoonful of mus
tard salt pepper a lash of paprika
one cupful of drawn butter and one
cupful of crab meat chopped fine Mix
one spoonful of the crumbs with the
other ingredients FiI1l large clam scal
lop or crab shells that have been boiled
and cleansed Sprinkle crumbs ovcrthe
top with tiny bits of butter Brown
slightly in a quick oven and serve in
the shells
Omelet in Batter
Make a bailer of two eggs and a
pint of milk with enough sifted flour
to thicken Fry an omelet Immedi
ately when taken from the stove cut
in squares Dip eachsquare in the bat
ter and fry a delicate brown in deep
salted fat
Egg and Potato Salad
Shell t 1 trees g a that have been hard
boiled for thirty minutes Placing them
in cold water after boiling makes them
shell easier Chop fine with a table
knife Dice three or four hot boiled
potatoes adjl to cut eggs and mix in
saladbowl with French dressing When
cold serve on watercress with more
dressing oh individual salad plates
lemon Custard
Puff paste tartshells may be filled
with this or it can be served very cold I
When a worn spot is to be cut out
its outline may be marked from the right
side by a fine needle threaded with
white colton Pass the needle in from
the fur side at each corner go around
the space twicethe second time pass
ing the thread over the spaces missed in
the first Tack the piece fur down to
a board and cut carefully along the
thread lines A bare or badly worn spot
is usually circular but it is better to
make angles in the cutting taking out
a square or triangular piece as a cir
cular shape is more difficult to inset ac
When the spot has been cut out a I
pattern must he cut for the new piece
that is to be inset Lay the pelt side
down on a piece of stiff paper and mark
with a pencil around the edge of the j
cutout Before taking the fur off
make a mark in the middle of this paper
that will indicate the fur side otherwise
in cutting the piece may be reversed
and not fit into the place cut for it I
Try the open space over the piece of
fur you mean to fit into it to be certain
it runs right then run a fine needle or I
a small pin in to mark each corner of
the cutout Turn the mending picce of I
fur over pelt side upward and place the II
paper pattern on it each corner touch
ing one of the inserted pins Mark with
chalk around the paper pattern allowing 11
a little over an eighth of an inch but
not so much as a quarter Cut with a
sharp knife in the chalkmarks b
Sowing the Inset
The scams in insetting are held and
overhandcd together in the same man
ner as described for joining sections of
a garment except that the tape is not
used The fur is tacked to a board
stretching it well then the pelt which
is uppermost is wet thoroughly and
allowed to remain on the board until it
is dry Artists thumbtacks or pins may
be used for the tacking If many pieces
arc to be inset that part of the work is
done first and the one process of wet
ting and tacking will provide for all
When a piece is so far gone that only
small portions of it arc fit to use these
pieces should be gathered together and
when the possible size of the smaller m
piece is decided upon it should be cut
m stiff paper for material if it is a piece
that requires fitting and the pieces
scmblcd on it fur side up to make sur
of their matching
A Pretty Neckpleco
One of the good fortunes of this
winter is that a neckpiece suggested by
the popular ruffs or Tobyfrills of the
autumn consists of a narrow band of
fur only long enough to meet around the
throat tying with a bow of ribbon and
with a boxplaited frill of the ribbon at
each edge All neckpieces have an inter
lining of one layer of sheet wadding or
the soft felf sometimes used by tailors
The edges of the furpiece are turned
over threeeighths of an inch for a finish
to which the lining is to be hemmed
Before turning over tape is ovcrhandcd
to the cut edge
The interlining is then tacked to the
pelt with tailors tacks though the
stitches arc taken very far apart The
edges of both arc then turned over and
the tape is hemmed or run to the inter
lining The lining is cut to the shape
of the completed piece a scam turned
under all around and hemmed to the fur
In making a throw scarf or larger neck
piece the fur must be divided at the
centreback and both ends made to run
in the same direction
Repairing a Muff
The ends of a muff are taped in the
same manner and a bed of cotton or
wool wadding is fitted inside the fur
Inside the cotton a second bed of down
enclosed in a propcrlyshapcd bag cor
responding with the design of the muff
may be placed before the lining is at
tached This adds to the cost of the
muff however and is not essential to
its making The object is to make the
inside soft and comfortable to the hands
in sherbet glasses Put the grated rind
of two lemons and juice of three into
a pint of boiling water Sweeten to
taste Beat whites and yolks of eight
eggs separately then together and pour
gradually into the other ingredients
beating vigorously all the time Stir
in double boiler until it thickens
Oyster Fritters
Beat twocggs until light add half a
pint of milk a pint of sifted flour a
teaspoonful of bakingpowder half a
teasnoonful of salt and dash of pepper
beating all till smooihs Chop twenty
oysters which have been drained and add
to the batter Drop spoonfuls into
deep boiling lard making them a rich
brown on both sides
Pond Illy Salad
Makes a tempting dshvv Arrange the
dark outside lettuce leaves on individual
plates Slice a piece from the large ends
of as many hardboiled eggs as re
quired so that they will stand on the
lettuce From the top downward with
a sharp knife cut the white of each egg
in points as you would tin orange skin
letting them fall apart like the petals
of a lilv Remove and grate the hard
yolks Season with salt pepper a little
mustard and with salad spoon and fork
mix in some French dressing Fill the
center of each lily with the grated yolks
and from the center of each with a
pointed spoon make several rays of
mayonnaise dressing to simulate pollen
Tho Egg Pudding
Is made by filling empty eggshells
which have been saved for the purpose
with a small opening on one endwith
a solid cornstarch bustard This has
been divided when boiled into three
parts and colored pink with a few drops
of cochineal brown with chocolate
and green with vegetable coloring
When very cold the hells arc carefully
broken away and the daintily colored
Easter eggs are served on a round dish
in a border or nest made by whipping
the white of one egg with a half pint
of double cream and grating maple
sugar over all parts of the nest
t n

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