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The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, May 28, 1910, Part Two, Image 16

Image and text provided by University of Utah, Marriott Library

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058398/1910-05-28/ed-1/seq-16/

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11 illl LL VJ Ai 0 JJ A j lLJ AJl llJI a
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r A EST Styles in Crepe de Chine and C
I Taffeta Silk Gown > i i4
aia Gray Taffeta Gown with Lace Flounces and
1 c r t Black Velvet Ribbon
I 1 iIJ
I J < 0 MaiMjn Dwell
r Photo Coitvrhht 1010 hy Rtmlinscr
I Exclusive Coiiyrtehi lUlU 4cw York
1 i
1 AKPBTA silk is in fashion once
Fl ngain ns might Imvp been ex
I I T pected with the revival of the
u old tune style of gbwn with
r llounccs and riichiugs and there
I I is more than n hint of the days
I of the civil war in the taffeta silk gowns
t now exhibited as the very Intestmodcls
H There are so many different grades iu
taffeta silk tliat tho selection is not an
easy task This season the softer quali
ties und those with a dull lustre curious
anomaly arc the smartest Chnn c
able effects even when nil one color
are considered to be the best and yijt
I among the plain there are colorings no
exquisitely soft and becomingthat surely
nothing else could he selected and tbe
wldo raugc of colors that is provided to i
choose from permits In fact demands
that what is becoming must decide the
quest ion
A gray taffeta silk gown with black
lace flounces and black velvet rilhonat
once is brought to the remembrance
portraits of fifty years ago the gentle
woman in her flounced taffeta with the
tlounees of rare thread lace or taffeta
nnd the hands of black velvet ribbon
heading each jlounco nnd outlining the
berth or liehii Todays rendering of
the Mine style is much the same aha
skirt is narrower the llouuccs not so full
but that the same model served us in
spiration cannot be questioned
Old Fashioned Colors Revived
< Jrny peich color torn color nsbfls of
roK vnll old fashioned colors are in style
and the
Chantilly laces that were used fnr
trimming in tin days goon by aro once
npain in high favor Bur
the drosmnk
trig of today is a far more subtle art and
more attention is paid to tho individual
to that ira too fullshirt is hopelessly un
becoming the width is most cleverly manip
ulated and different
lines are secured by
some marvellous manipulation of the ma
terial 1C the band of velvet heading cuch
tlouncc make too broad
an effect then
bows or rosettes of I
velvet arc added to
I break tho line Tho lace of the tlouqres
i most carefully adjusted made nritHor
too scant nor too full
1 such a trqns
formation as can bo nnd is wrought by
those touches of a skilled hand it is ul
most Impossible to realize
A simple dinner gown also possible
for theatre and restaurant is a quaint
model made up in dark pink tnlfeta Mows
of puffs or wide shirred bands trim tho
lower part of tin skirt while the upper
part and the body of the waist is of fold
after fold of the silk drawn tight around
the figure Around the square cut neck
is the softening of a Hat baud of guipure
law while there can he if desired bands
of the same lace in place of the shirred
bands or just above the puffs but there is
no other trimming on the gown Quaint ° I
II ISHING the skirt with a band or
1 F fold of silk or watln Is very fashion
ithlo this summer and the style hits
I mach brat is practical about iL Often
a pattern robe and there Ire good bar
White Voile dc Sole mid Liberty S tin Gown
1liuto by Lcjlx A
Exclusive Cbpyrijlit 11UU New Voile
picturesque old fashioned arc some I
of the adjectives applied to this model i
which certainly radically different from
liny of last seasons designs Taffeta silk
veiling goers arc evidently to be popular i
this summer for another model that has I
met with favor is a pale blue one with Hat
bands of guipure lace edged with narrow
Valenciennes niching Tim skirt is full
and wide gathered Into the helUjhe waist
is pointed buck and front fits light to the
figure and the trimming counts of ii
fichu of the silk trimmed with the melting
of Valenciennes to mulch the skirt A l
I white faffeta on the same mode with I
1fl is Nattier Blue Crcpou Gown o p
d Pliolo Copyrichu 1010 by nIJIIIDjrr l I G
r 1 lixclutive Copyright 101U New Ytr k 1 J
t d Himill C
W lr
Coral Pink Silk Gown with Guipure Lace
r U Drvcoll
Photo Copyriclit loll by ReulUDger
Exclusive Cujiyiislil 11UU New York
Lauds of shirred chilfon and clustors of I Crone de Chine and erOpoii are two mu
tiny pink rose is also becoming and cf Uriate that for a nliort time have been ji
dive relegated to the background Crepou iu
Practicall Details for Home Dressmaking
gains in the pattern robes of cloth linen
lace or chiffon is too short in front and at
the sides to give what is demanded this
> > 1
seasons skirt that thoy shnll not only
touch the ground all the way but lie on 1
fie grouud Jt is a muni extravagant I
styk hut none the less is it followed no
hut the fold or blind at the edge of ql
I lace on u thin fabric is of great service
ns it prevents the gown wearing out too
i quickly
I All white is not at the moment so
i fashionable as the contrast of colors and
the thin white gowns are finished will
In fold or hand of pink blue or yellow
twain unless one of the tijured brochodo
sign in preferred and these brOchC or cash
mere colorings are so attractive mstoJx
I immensely popular The belt and any
trimming on the waist mutcbps the finish
of the skirt witless for practical reasons
it is decided to finish the skirt with a
baud of white then the belt cnn be of
any color or design and so mnny differ
ent effects cnn be gained by wearing the
different belts that one gown does duty
for two or three
Separate waists arc fast Incoming as
necessary to comfort ns the lingerie shirt
waists that fashion has at lastsucceoled
in relegating j to the background They
must match Uhc costume in color and t
chiffon cloth marquijcttc lace and all
kinds of net are now far smarter than
silk satin Tor crOpo do Chine Those
waists some quite on the jumper order
arc made over n lining of white not o n
lace nod are dainty and becoming When
economy has to bo observed one good fit
r Gray Crepe de Chine Gown
t rCfS a j Tlioio Copyrlsbl J910 br I mllnrrr
a J y Exclusive Copyridit 1010 ton York
l J lloornlcl
< o I
deed has not been fnshlouublc n loin
time and as yet cannot be counted as
among popular fabrics but it is to be
noticed in many of the very latest model
gowns Crepe de Chine never entirely
retires from the field of popular approval
for it hag mure to recommend it than II I
mo t any fabric thai is known For sum
mer the lighter weights are delightfully
comfortable even in the hottest weather
It cleans and even launders sntlsfnetorlly
and while delightfully soft uud supple
I it still has enough firmness to enable 1t
to be made into skirt and coat costumes
us well ns the Empire gown There tureiti
crepe dc Chine many different weaves and I
texture every color of the rainbow and
many not associated with it and there I
is a dull and n bright finish so surely
any woman can find what she likes The
satin finish erOpe de Chine is difficult to
distinguish nt first Inure from the Lib
erty Hnllnthnt is in some of tho quali
ties but it is the fashion to combine the
two and then the
points of contrast are I
easily discernible Most practical for
summer is the nattier blue crtpc de Chin I
or silk crepou made simply nnd trimmed i
either with lace the sam color or with j
satin lie same shade The popular model
for this style of gown is extremely simple
I but so smart ns to make it noticeable in a
group of more elaborate nnd complicated
costumes The skirt fs quite unlike any1
loClhe models yet exhibited narrow but
not aggressively scant with only a bio
fold at the hemthe waistis loose on the 1
blouse order and yet does not conceal any
ood lines of the figure but iris very
plain and very simple It eflnhc mado
in any color and will look well while it
can be elaborated upon if so desired by
ting plain waist of net or lace can J
Ins foundation for two or moro of the dark
chiffon jumpers which cut in olio piece
I with the kimono sleeve do not require to
be fastened in at the scams of the Inside
waist I
theuddltion of embroidered or lace bandi i
i It is extremely difllcult ns the seatoi
advances to dictate authoritatively as Ie
I whnt shan or shall not he worn Not
only customers but dressmakers and tier
signers arc
nc apparcutly groping in the
dnrc trying to find some one fashion that
Jenn he pronounced the ono and only The
loading drossmakerfl and tailors speak
jhrnily about he return of the full skirt
and lake orders galore for the narrowest
skirt that cnn he made The whist line
must be
normal nnd again gownj galore
I are turned out with the wnist line inches
higher than was ever known in normal
anatomy Heavily trimmed skirts arc
obligatory nnd broken lines al feature of
ho very latest designs
so wil MV an
authority on dreg who in the same breath
counsels the purchase of a most costly
evening gown whose great beauty lies
iu the unbroken Hus
s that define to per
fecton every line of the figure Most
crnlly unbecoming are a majority of the
present day styles so perhaps it is the
Instinct of the true artist d
designer warring
with her KUM of allegiance to Dame
Fashion that makes it all so complicated
n problem I t
Length of New Gowns I
A rHfngrceable feature of thc ncwcst
gowns is the length an nil round skirt ns
it Is called must more than touch tho
ground all around and he a trifle longer
nt the hack High heeled
slippers arc
positively essential with these skirts and
still more essential is the rehearsing of
how to walk in them The satin or silk
lining of the skirt is 10 close hut it has
to he pulled down after the gown Is po t
Oil to prevent any wrinkles or folds for 1
they would show through the double or I
triple thickneis of any of tin transparent
piaterinls or even under a foulard or satin
The lining los not reach to the ground
but is finished Acith scant nifflci of mousse
line dc soic or heavy chiffon It is not
lasbioijablc to have a drop skirt for a
serge or cloth costume and oven the sepa
rate silk skirt is considered unnecessary j
but n Compromise has been insisted upon
and ohiainvd by a lining of satin or soft
fipisli slk made in with the material This
gives n softness and finish that Is far
more satisfactory than if the rough fabric
Is unlined and at the some time takes
l1ilcoJ room than even the most of scant
separate skirls
Another of the noticeable freaks of
fashion this season is tin skirl with the
nPPCr part tightly drawn back around
tho kips nnd the lower part of the skirt
apparently much wider than with tho
narrow straight skirt
This is nn old limo model revived to
the despair of those women who still
young enough to enjoy smart clothes have
n distinct and painful remembrance of the
II ii q C their girlhood rh nthH jwimo i
tlens fashionable In those days the
skjrlf were much wider around the lower
i > rli ij Perhaps in the eyes of the world
drtdtsmakerx who mqkca science of dress
do know better howto attack th j prob
lein and will know how to d ape mate
liilsjji such wise that the figure will not
1J0 entirely disfigured

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