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The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, July 23, 1910, Part Two, Image 13

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058398/1910-07-23/ed-1/seq-13/

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OILE foulard pongee rnjith and the chest is in fuvor decided modification
tussore these in their muny dlfmnsl bo practised Often the ingcuuity of j
v fcrcnt grades and varieties make the designer is taxed to the utmost to keep
lip the list from which nre to beja young girls frock strictly within the
selected the materials for n young limits of the newest there is in the world
girls afternoon frocks of fashion and yet have it becoming to her
Tn the different qualities of voile and ultraslender youthful lines When the
of pongee he less cosily plain colored I skirt is quite short for example any dra
grounds are about as smart as the pery must be rather suggested than ac
newer and hence more expensive check tually carried out and for the drooping
I and figured pal terns In foulard he least shoulder line caused by sleeve and bodice
conspicuous dolled patterns are the most boing lath cut from the same piece of ma
youthful terial it is well to build up that same
Fashions for young people are nalumlly shoulder piece by placing n small silk or
built upon the prevailing modes for grown 1 chiffon ruffle in the lining at the lop of
ups and the same general lines arc always the sleeve
carried out in school girl frocks as govern The two wanted skirt as the new mode
he models of older people only when aof skirt tied in closely about the knees with
certain style of skirt which demands IIR ribbon sash has been dubbed by some I
long train to be graceful or a shoulder line I wouldbe clever man is extremely pretty
which tends to narrow the breadth across with n long train evening gown but for a I
i I
I New Scarfs for Evening Wear I
1LNING scurfs were never so charm
EVENING and design never no
varied in pattern ns is the case at
the present moment The wearing of
dOcollete gowns by the grownups so
I much more enenilly limn of yore andj
lie colliiiless evening frocks for young
girls has made it obligatory for every
parly givwn to have its scurf to corre
spond nor will any simple length of j
f hemslithed silk or crepe do for this
cirl It must on the contrary cither I
correspond the trimming on the gown I
itself or lit any nile show by Us color
that it is designed as a complement to
Iliv eoMuine
The Marf of the moment are trimmed I
with every kind of ornament from 1
bands of gold or silver to borders of
tiny ostrich lip In sire they range from
to Immense
narrow shoulder scarfs I
widths of miitorlul which niiulo of satin j
are hirge enough to sirvo the purpose of I
nn evening wrap in inidaummer Bill for I
young girls the most attractive scarfs of I
till are this made of plain or lowered
chiffon bordered with marabou withers
or vviinsluwn
Fortunately there is nothing quite so
oa y to nuke as u pretty evening ncirf
while the straight length of material nf
fords every opportunity for display of
ft liuu handiwork and ingenuity of design
From a discarded clique or marabou boa
and two yards of cliff 011 a most fabci
noting scarf can be evolved The coipio
formed of
or marabou boa is usually
from three to live strips of the feathers
which rail easily be separated and 1llllc d
in single line as a border about tile strip
of chiffon or soft silk as the case may be
0 If there is HuUlcient of tho feather piece
n pretty effect is obtained by gathering
In the material blight through the con
tre and laying the furry piece over tho
hlrring Even the brown feather boas
tan bo steamed out und made to look ex
odingly well on u Hcarf of delicate yel
lov blueor pink chiffon
1 Swansdown by the yard is far less ox
and Will
Ptnsive than u feather border
five much tho same effect If there Is m
eld boa that can be utilized for the pur
loio Two or three rows of plaited lace
ribbon also
iJsiug or of n pretty Dresden
lire infective to border u thin scurf Sil
icy and gold lace can also be used as q
border and either is singularly Pretty
The two toned bcarfs are alxo to bi
been among the most attractive of UK
new designs rink chiffon over u founds
lion of thinnest munvo liberty satin Is ox
liiisltely pnjtty while any harmonious
vlor combination carried out In two text
urea or nil in chiffon Is sure to bu charm
i r
ing A pretty lowered chiffon over u
foundation of cream colored chiffon or net
makes a most serviceable scarf that can
he worn with almost any shade of gown
This season nil the sheer lowered ma
iterinls are exceptionally pretty
For a gown trimmed with gold or sil
ver embroidery there are many most effec
tive gilt and silver net iUsfrlilJlIs which
lined with gray or yellow ilk net or
cliiffon and trimmed with gold or silver
lace edging make excellent tcarfs I
For a really simple evening scarf a two
yard length of net about a yard wide or
half the natural width of the net or Illu I
sion which is used bordered all round
with a ruehing cither of lace or of tin1
not itself is exceedingly pretty and de
jcldedly easy to make up This scarf is
lined by simply doubling over the mate
rial itself I
The gilt and silver thread nets are of
course inappropriate for n young girl to
wear herself but they are easy to make
up and as presents for the older mem
bers of her family nothing could be I
more acceptable
The College Brothers Pillows
PHAClICAL pillow cover for the
A college brothers den may be made
I of dull hued felt appliquCd or em
I broidered with insignia in the chosen
colors of the alma mater Khaki colored
1 linen pillow covers painted to represent
Indians pushing the pipe of peace or u
I solitary bachelor smoking tho pipe of con
teutmcnt are bound with leather or fin
i lidicd all around with hand knotted linen
LrosMlitch work is extensively used
mi pillow tops of cross barred while can
ViiK marked with red or blue lines into
big hquiircs or diamonds or with a con
i volitional pattern Huff canvas tops are
worked in a design which includes golden
rod and wild carrot done in thoir natur
ally vivid tones and most artistic covers
of gray IJluo canvas are embroidered in
shades of dull green old blue French
rose and taupe outlined with black
The college brother will appreciate one
lof the novel pillows covered with ere
tonne showing 1 design in red wall
flowers and bright green and yellow par
rots of cross stitched canvas done In
Gobelin work of red Morocco with thong
laced ends I of alternating moire und satin
ribbon stripes joined with a narrow band
of lursiaii warp print of black velvet
appllqued with tupestiy and finished with
gold galloon cord and fringe of line white
linen hand embroidered and garnished
with point dc Vonlw medallions and of
plain dark satin monogram embroidered
with gold thrpnd
young girls frock the material must hf i
scarcely held in at all by this band about I
the knees In one gown of softest pastel
blue chiffon however this skirt model was
suggested by on overskirt effect In the
chiffon the hem of which was just caught
by n loose hand of softest shell pink main
ribbon below which fell a Second skirt or I
flounce of the chiffon vLlittle to one
side of the centre in front the ribbon was
looped in a soft rosette the ends falling I
not quite to the edge of the dress I
IT textures employed this spring are
A of the softest and most pliable and be
cause of the quality of all the silks
and silk fabrics It is found possible to
give an effect of real gathers and shirring
without adding perceptibly to the most
exaggerated sllmnebs The first secret of
this Is the absolutely perfect fit of th
undcrdress or lining with which part of
the gown it has been found essential to
take the utmost care und iierhaps I
especially on n young girls frock whose
stays arc not filled to ordor Since tin II
outer texture is so very soft and often of
transparent weave il is the lines of th
lindenlip therefore which show the real
lines of the dress
In chiffon voile all the gauzes and in
the sheer wash fabrics it is possible by
this means lo curry out a style of dress
that has been unthought of for quite
some seasons past that is the high girdle I
bodio1 wilb hkirlshirred gathered over I
jthe hips For the Iwo waisled skirt I
it is necessary to have this soft gathered
eflfcol ut the waist line
The newest girdle shows at last a
prelly round waist line placed just in its
natural positiou not exaggeratedly long
nor so near the arms as to change all
natural proportions The waist with the
new belt line shows n quite wide draped
girdle anything from three to six or
more imhos being fashionable and for a
school girl no other style of waist is bo be
coming Below this bolt UICI material of
= ICg neck Is
looking quite as
f < 7V
truly an evidence of refinement as
are well kept hands remarked
the April Grandiuolhur during the inter
mission period at a fashionable morning
concert From hour parterre box she could
politely observe nt close range a row of
assorted necks some decked with Dutch
collars and others trimmed to the ear
lobes with light stocks
Because the average young girl Is ex
ceedingly slender she resigns herself to
the possession of a dark gaunt neck
complacently expecting that it will ac
quire beauty with hur additional years
and flesh She might meanwhile have n
charming neck but to possess It she must
help nature to a certain extonl
In the first place o comparatively few
necks are properly cleansed yes 1 know
yours is washed at least three time
daily interpolated the April Grand
mother in response to an indignant ex
Irej ion In the eyes of her debutante
granddaughter bnl a n < ckt especially if
it belongs to a growing girl should be
positively scrubbed not only to remove
due grime duiwsUud by boas and non
iRiinderablo collars but for the purpose of
exercising the muscltn
With a coarse flcah brnfjh scrub the
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the dress is gathered in enough fulncas not
lo be unbecoming1
i ANY of the newest gowns are now
IN 1 made with waist and skirt separate
but generally speaking it is best to
atlaeh the two darts together whether
or not the offectjof a one piece dress is
shown ill the model In the socalled
wash fabrics and in many of the thin
silk textures lel1l princess gowns with long
panels front andibuck arc still worn Xo
matter what thainodels considerably more
material must unprovided for the dross
of today than hat in vogue a year ago
and in the skirls the exaggerated straight
lip and down effect has quite disappeared
Uuderivelllcoatstoo must once more be
I taken into consideration
neck until n deep red glow proves that
circulation has brew thoroughly aroused
I Then sponge it with hot soapy water and
I with the finger tips gently rub into the
cuticle a little cold cream After tea min
I sites you will biisurprised perhaps dis
mayed to see how much grime will come
I off with the cold cream from an ap
parently clean neck
The cold water liberally dashed upon
the llesJi after the removal of the cream
will help to harden the muscles as well as
to whiten the cuticle and close up its
pores Hot water is best for cleansing
I purposes but unless followed with a cold
I douche its effect is yellowing to the skin
I Bui other evils iu addition to invisible
I grime are disfiguring to feminine necks
I Satisfied that Ih J cuticle in clean many
girls fail to notice that till bock of the
neck still retains till tan of the summers
sun or has been roughened by the winters
wind Yet to remove the ugly brown
dug It ih onlyinoccssmry after thoroughly
scrubbing the cuticle to rub in almond oil
i and let it rcmuicuon all night
I If the discoloration is very btubborn
I the oil should be discarded in favor of
lemon juice which is tho only bleaching
acid not liable lo attack thu hair roots
A rough neck should bo rubbed with witch
hazel sweet oil or white corn meal all of
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I Sleeves arc In a distinctly interesting
stage at present So varied in size and
designare the sleeves of the moment that
I for almost the liixt time on record the
date of the making of a gown cannot
now possibly be determined from the
sleeves The newest sleeves are perhaps
the huffoon model but how long these are
110 reulain the smartest it is ililllciill to
isay This double puff above n cult vary
I ing in length according 10 preference is
not nlwajs becoming by any means
i Then there is the sleeve with a cap of
silk lira to six inches in length below
j which is a full soft sleeve of chiffon
caught in again at the wrist with a tight
face brfnd It can only positively be
I111atthc long absolutely plain tight
sleeve is not to be worn this spring hut
just what degree of fulness and just what
model length Dame Fashion will finally
decide upon cannot now be foretold
Oil n smart gown for afternoons the
r voiles are exceptionally attractive in
I coloring this year and the texture is
especially good for the seasons models
A two toned shepherds plaid made up on
a foundation of some contrasting color is
most attractive and indeed this season the
voiles depend largely upon their linings
for effect Color combinations are much
in evidence just now and when not carried
out in the trimming of the dress another
rolor is almosf invariably to be noticed in
he lining The fine voiles of plain color
made up over changeable silk or a bright
j plaid having ainon its different tones one
Hint is the same as the dress itself arc
I exceedingly pretty
I Then again the gowns made up In a
combination of different materials ore very
I I smart Voile and foulard silk arc an un
usual union yet the frocks fashioned In
I and differ
this way are delightfully new
ent from the regular run of timeworn fou
I lards or voile models When different text
I which arc soothing amid healing then
made smooth with u rose water and
1 glycerine mixture If It agrcos with thu
texture of he skin und finally fed lib
1 emU with cold cream
The girl who attempts to plump her
neck by self adntiuistered inasfige makes
a scnoiis miftake warned the April
Grandmother Soda treatment should I
be entrusted only to a person who is thor
oughly familiar with the location of ach i
muscle and Vein The amateur may
however replace the angles of her neck I l
I with curves by stretching the chin out
wardand upward turning the head rap I
1 idly from sale to side nnd energetically1 I
throwing it backward and forward She I
will mow when to terminate the exorcise
by the condition of the throat muscles
which will feel sore and tied from tin
wonted exertion
j Tliat u womans neck invariably bt
I I trays her ago Is a fallacy concluded the
I April Grandmother just as lime orchestra I
i resumed its notion In this concert
I room at least a dozen thin yellow and
furrowed columns support the bends of
las many young girls while to n score of j
i silver haired matrons Ixjloug plump
smooth while necks whioh proclaim the
i value lit exercising intelligent and uu < l
i n 11I1 carts I
i ores are used together in this way the
one color is generally kept to the dot
stripe or figure in the foulard making suf
ficient contrast with the solid ground of
the voile A dark blue voile laid over a
foundation of dotted foulard of the sane
shade and trimmed with a deep baud of
the silk about the lower part of the skirt
II the foulard also forming part of the waist
and sleeps with n draped girdle also ut
the silk make an exceedingly smart and
also extremely useful little dress The
same idea curried out in a plain colored
Liberty silk or a plaid silk combined with
the voile In any shade whatever is ex
tremely smart I
fl l N strict economy must be con
I Xf sidered the objection of a silk lining
of course comes up in contemplating
I u voile gown for any texture so trans
parent necessitates a foundation of silk
Xeither pongee rajah tus or or foulard
calLs for costly lining 1 many of these ma
terials being made up unboned and un
lined There are many striped and fig
ured pongees and tussore that are ex
tremely pretty and make roost uHofnl
spring and early summer gowns Natural
color pongeo with a stripe of bright blue
Simple Jewelry for Young Girls H
AID pins for tnriinn style of hair
B dressing are developed in a variety
of attractive design notably of
square and circular top shape in amber
or shell plain carved or studded with
rhinestones Others are of real or imitation
lion horn scroll sawn and sot with
I brilliant of gun metal inlaid with gold
or studded with paste diamonds of gilt
set with a single amelhyst or topaz of
platinum and gold of old Hutch silver in
loco effect produced by stamping and en
amelling and of pierced rose gold
One novel braid pin of Egyptian design
is of singular shape in antique gold set I
with moonstones a second is in brides j
cent colors and cloisonne effect a third of
II florally pninied metal coated with fuss
and a fourth of rhiiieslonefi set in plati
hunt but most of all uniiino aro the hair 1
pin tops of cloisonne in Japanese and
Unssiun deMgus I
Pin holders having a jointed attach
ment w5 h can be adjusted to clasp over I
the central knot of any style of neck I
wear atx Inane up In all the precious and I I
semiprecious metals and iu n variety oil
curious combinations especially those of
Oriental design in dull finished cojifer
wilh a matrix of feldspar surrounded
wilh amethyst pearls or topazes
Convenient sets for dressing which in
I clude from three to six pins of various
sites arc of bar shape in platinum gold
or gun melal set with rhiuestonoH or
garuQts of Kunllow form in green blue
or red bard enamel of dull oxidizod atcr
ling silver set with amethysts of old
Dulchfinishcd metal In scroll mind leaf
pattern inlaid with JcweltiJor in Into
effect holding while stones and In Hc
itaiRsance braid style embedded with
amethysts of irregular shape nud size
Fablj pin sets which in many Instances
are accompanied by cuff links consist of
mull squares of uiotlierofpcarl overlaid
wirh tiDY gold or silver figures repre
senting come familiar fablu The sanli1
quaint idea is carried out in some of till j
belt buckles of pearl or Ivory which are I
in the Hhapc of mated squares diamonds
vats and dbkn The fame moulds aro i
used for the buckles of Empire green
drake blue or ruby In plain enamel while I
the latest fnd In fancy belt damps con
green or pink is been again among tin
MmmeM of this material
But for a young girl more depends upor
I the color of the dress than even upon tin
I texture or the model itself It is a pity
loo not to keep 10 the bright spnngliki
I colorings in a schoolgirls outfit then
will be jo many ycirs later on when sh
will have to always wear the iombre
practical shades if only because tho viI
I pinks and bines will be no longer bccom 1
i ing The color of the moment is o I
course the superb chanfecler red and foi
nil young people this shade is intensely I
I becoming for it brings out to best ad
vantage every possible good point In
beauty of coloring and feature Pink il
unquestionably the hue most in vogue
this season and fascinating indeed are
all its new soft and brilliant tones In
deed about the only shade of pink thai i
lIs not especially fashionable is the ordi
nary shade with which all are familiar 1
i Pale greens are always charming at Ihij
I season and the soft taus arc also popular
Dark blue will be worn a great deal for
II practical use but for afternoon and even
ing pink and red so long as their lone
is not of the ordinary sort firmly hold
I the reins of popularity
sists of an oblong of metal enamelled in
imitation of crochet with a rim composed
of chain links
Fortunately very long hat pins have 1
I gone out of fashion and no longer do
their points protrude several inches beyond
I 1
yond the hat crown Their heads 01
I nioderntc size are of various shapes in
cluding tho umbrella which is daintiest
when done in silver of lace design set with
Jrhiuestsones or English paste the circu
lar of pearls on while metal the crescent
of shell sit with brilliants the sword hilt
of enamel and gold and the roses having
while composition petals and juwi1
Oblong round and oval coin holders
with compartments for quarters nickcis
I anti dimes are of sterling silver gre ii
I gold fir gun metal finished in hammered
Dolished ribbed or plain effects lined
with velvet satin or kid and Huspendcd
by metal chains from the belt buckle
Fan Bags of Satin and Silk
= AN bags are useful and very attrac
I tive gifts from n girl to her friends
and there aro some charming designs
for these bags among I hn recent French
Importation They arc long and narrow
iu shape and of course if they are meant
Ito be uml for one lit the huge feathei
fans now In fashion hey iiiu > t be very
large indeed The ordinary sied fan
however does loot require a large bug
Hid nn dais olin fan is always more or
hs in hiihion it is for It thai tho bug N 1
usually made
Silk satin and brocade are the favor 1
ite materials for the fan bag Some of
the new ones are made of pule colored
satins with linings of deeper colors and
trimming of ribbon flowers and fringe
A faint blue bntiu fan bag was lined wilh
roe satin and trimmed whit tiny tntiii
low urs in pale blue rose and jilok
Around the edge of the bug here was
a twist of satin and this was edged with
a tiny gold fringe The top of the bag
nud finished
was drawn up with u gold cord
shed with gold fringe mind n little wreath
of the lInl1I lowers A flowered silk hag
Was covered with gold puuze a wreath
of ribbon lowers being used over thcae
Thin bag land fringe of the several colors
of which the design of the material was
composed I
uinpoe For young girls n charming design for
n fan hag Is of soft satin finished silk 1
trimmed with ruches of narrow Vnlen
cienues lace and drawn up with a gold I
cord Tho lining may be of white slUr
or of a color contrasting with the Ilkj
covering of the bat

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