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The Morning standard. (Ogden, Utah) 1910-191?, December 25, 1910, Part Two, Image 16

Image and text provided by University of Utah, Marriott Library

Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058406/1910-12-25/ed-1/seq-16/

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W flELVET Satin and Cloth
Costumes in Varied Coloring
lIE number of street gowns that I
arc required for the winter sea
T who takes my
son by the woman I
prominent position in the social
world is this season more than I
over discouraging to the woman I
herself who unless she bo posscssed of
a positive mania for clothes hates to spend I
so much lime at her dressmakers But
Fashion demands a variety of dress and i
her demands must be complied with and
at this time of year when it might have
been thought the clothes question was
virtually settled as many orders arc being i
given for thu additional street gowns as
though the senson wero not yet begun
The velvet costume so marked a feat
ure of this winters styles continues to
t Black Vect andCloth Costume
r Photo TDopyrigfir ion by Ifentllnifir I
EulnalO CopjrlghfeJOIO No r STorUacrald
I nine ana Black Goira with relvct trlmCllnP
the yoko or upper part oC waist and
sleeves a short jacket or long coat either
B fashionable and always handsome
luralheBc compose the costume which
to spite of its simplicity can be expensive
J 1Il
enough to suit even the most extravagant
In black such a costume is considered
smartest but having one black costume
does not in any way obviate tho necessity
for other costumes of the name descrip
tion only perhaps more elaborate Blue
in nil shades brown tan gray red yel
low each and nil in velvet are effective
and smart Tho colored velvets are as
a rule made up much moro elaborately
trimmed with embroidery and braiding
and with fur but they are no smarter
be it well understood
The satin costume was so exceedingly
popular last summer that long before
tho winter there were many rumors
heard that satin would not bo fashion
able at all this winter and anyway that
be worn for all occasions the skirt short
I the waist simple in design but with a I
Clint of gold or silver showing through
it was a material not suitable for street
ear In cold weather The heavy wool
back satin Is however a material quite
impossible excepting in cold weather and i
any number of black satin costumes mire
nt this moment being made while they
are also to bo seen worn by tho smartest
people Fur ao a trimming is by far the
best but just aa in the summer styles
Green Silk Cloth Costume Photo Copyright 1011 b1RcuUiDlCr
v Muisou BechoffDaviJ Cxchuhc Copyright 1011 Now York Herald
the plain untrimmed coat anil skirt a style i
finds many admirers who contend thai
ho separate furs arc nil that is neces
sary to the costume and that worn with
out them later it is complete These
touches of economy alwnjs seem a rifle
inconsistent with such expensive gowns
but apart from tile economical stand
point the gown is really quite as attrac
Cloth Is always a satisfactory material
Black Velvet down with Venetian lace collar
for many reasons and the different colors
and textures this season are extremely
beautiful Tho satin finish uud newer
still the socalled silk fiiilsh arc mar
vellously soft and effective and tho ma
terial can be so depended upon to make
up well to be draped or fitted to per
fection It Is this winter combined with
velvet and with satin or heavily trimmed
with fur and under nil circumstances is
smart Black is time one exception for
while there are many charming black
gowns and costumes the light colors have I
the preference A good combination iJ
poile de sole cloth and fur and this per
nuts of the most fascinating coloring
with a lining that can be either plain or
figured tho upper part of the skirt being
of the transparent fabric shows the lining
most offecthely
Just a touch of white or bright color
as facing or edge works wonders in a
gown that Is too sombre in hue Black
especially needs this to relieve It and
make It becoming A clever way of nc
complishing this result is the trimming
with baud or folds of velvet of a dark
color or black with just an edge of the
color or white then an edge again show
ing on the rovers or collar oC the coat
The objection sometimes made to this
style is that it looks rather patchy
and is ineffective and there is a certain
amount of reason In the criticism If so
desired the edge can be omitted from any
bands or folds on the skirt but on the
waist and coat they are invariably ef
Widely Varying Models
II is interesting season to note how
utterly different aro many of the fuah
ions quite contradictory it would seem
There aro most charming gowns without
a particle of trimming One favorite
model for an evening gown is of satin
without even laco In tho sleeves and an
other equally popular is of satin entirely
covered with a tunic or overdress of white
tissue with tho tissue Imost hidden under
its embroidery of crystal beads inter
spersed with lace medallions the pattern
in each medallion outlined in rhinestones
Nothing more dissimilar than these two
gowns both designed for the same
woman could beimagined and yet in the
lines they arc alike In afternoon and
street gowns these sumo curious contra
dictions exist and after all it is a relief
not to have everything on tho same order
To Illustrate the truism that the ex
ception proves tho rule a woman who
IB considered one of tho best gowned
matrons in New York society ordered
this winter seven street gowns all of the
sarno style and eight evening gowns nil
the same but in different colors and yet
thero arc many women who spend time
strength and money without stint in the
effort to secure variety in their dress
Cloth and velvet gowns worn with fur
jackets arc smart this season This does
r1 ir Jt78r
= j
Brcitschwantz jacket and Velvet Gown
Motion Drccoll
Photo Copyrisbt 1011 by Hentlinecr
Exclusive Copyrlsht IOU New Yorl Herald
not mean the elaborate gown worn under
the long loose coat but the sown Int
looks well with the short fur jacket The
broadtail or baby lamb jacket is very
smart fanciful in design and trimmed
quite elaborately with biaid and buttons
There need not be any fur on the slirt
at the same time a band oC it looks well
but the gown is supposed to be complete
in itself and the fur jacket is merely the
outer garment or wrap worn with it So
soft and beautiful are tho markings of
the fur that it looks like a piece of moire
Over velvet it is charming and rather
richer in appearance than with the cloth
but n smart black cloth gown is always
I a desirable addition to the wardrobe
Striped Velvet Gowns
The striped velvets that are fashion
able this winter have not as yet become
too popular as It was feared they might
and there are a number of very smart
costumes made of the materml Black
or nn extremely dark blue or brown with
the hair line of white is chosen and there
are somo patterns where the line Is not
white but the same color as the rest of
the material but is in satin which makes
a contrast and a churmfugly oftuctivu
one I
I This winter the yokes In ail gowns arc
Satin and Laco Gown
much smaller than last year that is the
white yoke and collar the waist is cut
out In much the same fashion ns last
year but is not filled iu with white black
chiffon or net over white or color cloth of
gold or silver lace coloring it almost to
the line of the collar itself This is more
practical when dark furo are worn but is
not nearly so becoming and the white
stock collar and some white In the yoke
almost Invariably have to be added The
Dutch necks are also too trying fOr the
great majority to attempt and the sheer
est of net collars and narrow round yokes
are far smarter
There is so much remodelling of dress
necessary this season that the tendency
113 to spend far more money than would I
be believed in the doing over of last win
ters gowns At first glance tho problem
of making over the wide skirts into the
absurdly narrow ones now fashionable
seems comparatively simple but the task
demands skill and patience and it is
really far better to recut the skirt entire
ly in many instances rather than to at
tempt to take it in at the various seams
An extremely practical woman who has
t i < c <
Blue Satin Tailor Gown DlaLon Dcccoll
k Photo CopyrlcM 1011 by ncutlloRer j 111 i
Exclusive Co > iright 1011 New York herald I r
f I AI Ii t I
7 V cr
t h tJ Blue Velvet Costume
MalaoD Drccoll I II
I Photo Copyright 1011 by HcutJInjcr
Exclusive Copyright iOu New York IJcralJ
the clothes question well worked out con
tends that this is not n season when it
pays to make over old clothes With so
DIoo Chiffon Gown
little material as is required in + thc fash
ionable gown itris better to buy nil new
and a remnant of some superb fabric bold
at n bargain will make a far smarter gar
ment while the time taken to make tho
new ono will be less than half what the
cutting and making ocr of the old would
Old trimmings can be far batter util
ized for trimmings arc terribly espen
i P C
sire Bands of fur also serve to mal
a gown smart and effective With the 1
old lining and trimming and the minimum J
of materIal that is necessary for a smart
evening gown and the services of a clever
dressmaker in the house for two or nl
the most three days u charming gown
may be evolved far smarter than n last r
years creation remodelled
The cloth of gold tissue with colors in i
Voile ana Salln Gown for tie Sooth w
torwoven and a baud of plain chiffon or Ii
sutfn nmko up most effectively and J v
Carch through rumnnnta will dh > dos
arc treasures
ItfttlL c r

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