The San Francisco call. [volume], May 05, 1895, Image 19

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
A Page For Women
Laferrlere was very recently interviewed
concerning what wiii be worn during the
next few rnontiis. and announced that light
colors and shades will be in vogue, soft
tints and well blended, of pale yellows,
iiiac mauve, tea-rose cerise, pinkish beige,
etc., with trimmings of black velvet, black
ribbon cr black chiffon. These are arranged
as bretelies, chous and straps. The bod
ices are all of the bouffant chemisette
style. Sleeves will continue to be very
large, the upper part being an enormous
esz in shape, pleated at the shoulder and
gathered at the elbow, and then very close
- iery.
■
I
•re recorn
. B an-
■ it for
evening goi
- ■ -
to be the
. come
mean
A Gray Crepon Gcxm, vcitft panel* of vrkite cloth vrith stamped-cut pattern over white
tctin. Elack satin epaulettes, cuns and rosettes. Hat in transparent black lace, trimmed
vrit plumes of feather* and pint rotes.
No. •. 7>a G<ncn in pink siik, with trimming of guipure and spotted net. forming long
ttole ends ar^d tied vrith pink moire ribbon.
ability to paint such blossoms as re seen I
on some lately imported Paris costumes.
Crepons continue to be immensely popu- i
lar and Trill remain in favor for many
moons if dressmakers have any say in the !
matter, as they are very perishable In a I
foggy climate, and lei me predict that ]
alpaca is soon to be a serious rival to j
crepon as a fashionable fabric, for "re of ;
the best models this season from Paris, for !
ordinary every -.. occasions, are made of
this material, and the gowns in •■•.bite, |
gray or black are the most stylisn. In all
cases the lawn collar edged wi'tii lace is an
enormous imjyovemenrto an alpaca coat,
and perhaps n i* unnecessary for me to re- '
mark that alpaca does not make up into!
capes successfully, as it will not set well !
w£en so used. But do not look for the old
Etyle alpacas. They have ccme back to us
in delightful weaves, all coffered, in wavy
lines and in innumerable pretty effects.
Mohair woven with alpaca and all poile
de chevre stuffs are coming back again in
beautiful mixture* cf colors'. Black crepons
intermixed with light colors in such fabrics
as blue satin and brocade will rival in pop- !
ularity the barege of onr grandmothers.
Silk has never been so deftly treated by the
weaver before. Never has glace siik "been i
of such good quality as now, for it can be
had as thick as brocade.
Black and blue shot glace? are one of the I
new modes and make effective waists for j
checked crepon skirts.
Black satin is still much used for skirts. |
Black grenadines with bold chine flowers j
make excellent summer dresses, as do j
also the gauzes, the coloring being ex- ]
qaisite grass green, brilliant fuchsia, j
apricot and peach. There are many
c necked grenadines and crepes on the ■
counters. Gauzes, chiffon and crepons '
hare all been shown embroidered in the j
open hole work.
Velvet gauzes are coming race on shot f
grotmds, the patterns are bold and floral [
and gauze soutache with well covering pat- j
terns in upstandins cord is used greatly for t
capes. Some beautiful garnitures to be
used on chines are a mixture of mcther-of-
Pf-I a™ embroidery, the natural color of !
tbe Cowers, and these are generally painted.
I here are many kinds of designs outlined
.witn g-oM and pearlsJ which are intended :
«^ lp I for the and the galons |
and . detacaed motifs in which jewels of ail !
kinds and colors are endle«
*5n ZChe - the cfd violet ~ color, is back!
.a a.a nzno.ns the novelties and such a vari- i
Keyron P:a mc:udi2 S Eengale and Paul j
manvth
is.
new la%* StX? t0 leara concern me the.
oth-r f i LI I* 5^ orx and in them, as in :
Arf-lai^ ; c aches, the Broderie
bSES&Tk^ hole work, is apparent.
tea colored;
kSher toST"° a T^ What is caUed -the ,
ieaeher tone. i: -- as yet I have not
©wJvS? 5 f^SS 05 * miimi— l they '
p
•omet^aea ihe pattern is much raised, [
while other designs appear to have been
worked in lace braids. -" The leather-tinted
laces are generally of a heavy make, and
cord often outlines the designs. In these
the patterns are usually ii visible so that
they can be applique distinctly, and the
lace, which resemble? strawwork, is new.
Many striking patterns are to be found in
the guipures. Some of the newest black
laces are worked in chenille, in the open
holes, on a n*t ground. They come in
many widths. Many patterns are of the na
ture of braiding; in others a curious effect
is produced by a sort of shadow pattern in
the upper part, having the aspect of van
dykes and «pots. Another lace, showing
lisht scroll designs, is called Ramage.
There is a wonderful variety in ribbons,
and they are much wider than formerly,
and here again silk is to the fore. Striped
glace, kilt-pleated at the side. Ea a novelty,
for when a do w is mi and allowed to open
it discovers in these pleats a contrastina
shade and often a floral stripe in chine.
Among new trimmings should be men
tioned accordion-pleated lisse. interwoven
with satin ribbon, carried horizontally,
while each pleat is outlined with jet per
pendicularly, the jet being frequent I v re
placed by the metallic colorinz. such as
beetles' wings. These beautiful ribbons
and trimming help to make the hats and
bonnets more charming than usual this
season. Pretty colored gloves, stitched in
the same shade or in black, will be worn
reaching to the elbow.
Hats are no longer alluded to as "peram
bulating dower 'garden*/' but as "jar
dinieres."
The pointed carriage sunshade is very
much more attractively made than for
merly. I wonder they "are not more gen
erally used, as our zephyrs make a parasol
diiiicult to handle during certain seasons.
Handles of parasols are either ovoid or
round and jewelers are using lapls-lazuli,
enameling*, crystal, amethyst, topaz,
Dresden china and gold and "silver perce
work.
Umbrella handles are also being orna
mented lavishly, but gold and silver
mountings are in the best tasie.
Mousseline de soie is being used more
extensively than ever for ball dresses,
especially " by young women but is ex
ceedingly expensive when one considers
the fact that such a sown cannot be worn
to more than two or three balls without br
ing ruined, unless the wearer happens to be
a wall-flower.
A gown recently worn in New York at
an Easter dinner party was much admired.
It was composed 6f pale pink brocade, en
train. The bodice was entirely of mirori
velvet, trimmed with accordion-pleated
chiffon of the same shade, with the most
exquisitely beautiful cobweb lace, which
fell over the velvet in airy-looking frills.
A cluster of beautiful pink roses adorned
the left shoulder and united with a similar
cluster below the waist on the right side
by a tiny chain of buds.
Pannier-like trimmings are coming in.
A brown striped skirt" displayed these
. . k rib
bon velvet at the I - by a
buckle, the bow- inches
. The bodice, which ha<l a m
me pretty brocade with a cream
around, bad been trimmed, as so many
are. with a lace scarf, the ends fonaine the
:n the shoulder. A nay;
. wa~ arranged with checked ribbon
b wide, and thert wa= a novel
•i-ith velvet
xers and c> •;
skirt, each breadth being so cut that it
formed a side flap from the waist, bordered
with a ribbon. This is said to be a becom-
Lcp style for a large figure.
A very effective blouse is called the
"sailor blouse," of soft figured satin or
batiste, ornamented with a sailor collar
edged with narroy Valenciennes lace.
Either black or whne can be had East, but
the black has not yet arrived here. The
frill down the center is finished in a similar
manner, and there is a full collar of the
material, in addition to the sailor one,
which if detachable. Some shirts of hand
some French checked silks, in charmingly
combined colors, hare the fashionable
Norfolk pleat of black velvet, studded with
very pretty buttons. The crwii velvet
THE SAX FRAXCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 5, 1893.
collar is adorned with rosettes of siik on
either side.
French batiste so fine as to resemble
in in teiture is printed in a number
of designs and is very pooular.
All women are interested in having the
dam: ritiest household iinen. =o
I will describe some very beautiful
One. in cream linen, ha^ a design of
dahlias and grasses interspersed "" with
ribbon and a large monogram in the
center worked in "pale rose flax and is
edged with a full frill of rose lawn. An-
O.VF OF THE LATEST DEBJGSS FROM PARK.
other, all white with a hemstitched
border, is powdered with sprays of lilies
and fern, while a third has an "all-over"
design of irises and carnations embroid
ered" in various shades of golden amber,
dull blue?, pinks and greens on amber
brown linen.
The piiiow-ca^s and sheets are ex
•'.v nee. m'lch Mexican open work
_ •:em. For . meets may
■Til inches of this work at inter
od a tiny raffle. The pillow-cases
match, and when the op-en work cxi
■ r trie cases the pillows should be
covered either with silk in a
rn?rfectly harmonizing with the
• ft :a the bedroom. One sheet, which
- ribed as being unnsualiy pretty, had
. c of the open work an embroidered
Frock for Little Girl.— Faint ribbed fancy
cloth, trimmed uiih rnnrs of narrow green
braiding upon the yoke, deep collar and hem
of the skirt.
design of pond lilies with ribbon?, another
showed some white orchids, and the sheet
was scalloped along the edge.
I consider the alf-white embroidery the
-;<{.. ropriat* 1 and effective.
In 17.» the following canons of beauty
were laid down :
1. Everything which alters or disfigures
nature proceeds from false taste.
2. Everything which forces nature be
yond its due bounds proceeds from bad
taste.
3. Everything which eclipses the be i
and exposes the defects of nature proceeds
from want of taste.
4. Everything which constrains nature
and hinders freedom of action proceeds
from depraved taste.
5. Everything that loads nature with
superfluous ornament proceeds from affec
tation rf taste.
6. Everything wh ;^h is out of character
is entirely out of Maecella.
AMUSEMENTS POE SUMMEB.
Every woman who is blessed with the
natural sweet instinct* of hospitality and
a country house boasting one or two -pare
rooms probably has under consideration
jus: now a list of friends and relatives she
wishes to entertain during certain weeks of
the summer.
She is speculating a iitUe anxiously on
devices for the occupation and amusement
of her guests. It is not sufficient to offer
them merely good beds and food and the
daily rounds of her own home life, says a
writer in che Boston Globe.
Where the visitors are middle-azed and
quiet in their tastes, this is no great task.
An afternoon drive, a shady piazza, a pretty
luncheon or two, some one nice from the
neighborhood in even- night to dinner,
and the til or sitting-room table well
suppi:<-' : ' h newspapers and the current
magaz ■ - >r weekpet wfl] rill every de
mand oi ;-<-- sober-sided mind.
Where tnere are young people the case
assumes more serious pfiases, bnt if the
country house b - f anythin?
like generous dimensic :ns and the weather
proves kind and clear, a great deal can be
done in the way of entertainment with out
- -poris.
Garden golf, for example, a new game to
. 'a this year and no: very Ion?";
in England. It was invented particularly
for persons who had no srounds for
the regulation links or no liking for the
h*avy work at driving over a long, rough
Girls in the freshest of afternoon gowns,
leghorn hats and French boots can make
tg pictures and sport at gar
den golf. The coarse is laid out on the
lawns and anione the flower beds; the
balls are light and the clnbs scarcely more
than prett. i canes, but the in-
terest none the less for this miniature
practice of a game that has so effectually
put tennis out of iavor.
But the head of thchouse with yoane
people under her roof does wisely to
leave a great deal in the selection of amuse
ment to their own taste and copy the ex
ample of a rich woman who owns a most
popular country house outside Philadel
phia. Every morning, on a big black
board, that huns from a post on the wide
veranda, she wrote out her plans for the
day's amusement. The hour? for meals
were given, then a scheme for morning
diversion, the afternoon's entertainment,
and what she had on hand for the eveninj.
On a shelf by the board lay a chalk
crayon and eraser. As the guests came
down to breakfast the bulletin was ex
amined, the proposed occupations for the
day discussea over the meal, and whatever
feature of some preceding day's programme
they wished repeated they substituted, or
added as amendments to the hostess' sug
gestion.*.
On this bulletin, also, those who wished
to drive, or wheel, go boating on the
river, walk, run into the city, spend the
morning in their rooms, go calling, or felt
at leisure to join anybody in any scheme
for fun. stated the fact in big chalked let
ters on the black face.
The bulletin board t-ecame the center of
amusement and attraction, ar.d a carefully
kept record proved that the popula
forenoon dances never waned. With
breakfast between 8:30 and 10 o'clock,
dancing began at 11. lasted until 12. and
with luncheon at 1. left the young«ter«
happily weary ar.d willing for afternoon
•iri'vesand boating and strawberry teas.
Lawn theatricals were improvised for
special afternoons by this versatile hostess.
and proved so successful that they will be
A seasonable gown of the latest fashion is a
good example of exactly- the kind of dress tee
are ant in.? no*c. The skirt is cut in the extra
full style, which is th' mode that trill without
doubt be adopted. It is composed of gne faced
doth of the mastic shade. TJ e bodice i* of the
new chine tilt, the ground maute, tcith a
multi-colored cashmerian design. The neck
band, cuj?t and straps dovrn tit back are of
violet telvet, edged trith- a gold cord, and a
galon with a festoon of gold and jet. On the
front, vhich is full, there it a bib of lace, the
design in gold on a white foundation, beneath
which is a large bow on the bust. The skirt
has a vide box-pleat in front, and there is an
accompanying cape of the cloth lined tciih
triolet, shoving through the almond-shaped
holes cut in the cloth, and finished with an
applique of the same trimming. It is admira
ble in color and design.
played often ibis summer in the gardens j
everywhere about country hou- -
Aaotinet feature of her list of summer:
entertainments was a charming statue I
german. By secret arrangements, all the j
feminine guests were asked to come in the :
draperies and rilleted headdresses
of Greek and Roman women. The men j
were not let into the secret or into the ,
drawing-room until the women slipped in j
by a long back window and ranged ttiem- j
selves about the four sides of the room in
the poses of the heroines and goddesses !
they pretended to represent.
The tableau was charming, the favors ■
were imitation antique bracelets, girdles, J
tillet ribbons and gilt coin=. and at inter
vals during the dance the women grouped ;
themselves in graceful postures to the ap
plause of the men and the chaperones.
The hostess who this summer will rent
or borrow a couple of women's safety cycles
and let her guest experiment with them a
few mornings will confer a blessing on the
girls of the house party.
CARELESS.
Couldst thou bet keep each noble though:
Tcou fljngst in '-v orris astray.
With gui« then thy nirh: were fraaght,
With glory crowned thy day.
But thou too idly and too Ion?
From bower to Dower bast ranged;
And nature trifled with, not loved.
Will be at laat avenged.
With pleasure oft, bat ne'er with awe,
Thou gazest at tte skies:
And Irons thy lips all zephyrs draw
Their amplest harmonies.
Beware : the hoar is coming fas;
When every warbled tone
That brims our hearts with joy shall yield
>"o sweetness to thine own.
ACBB2T DB VEEii.
Taking an Interest.
Woman pays a higher price than man
for publicity in any form. 'Men can
afford to be more indifferent to the world's
tongue, " says Middleton. in The Queen,
•'and. besides, no one dreams of torment
ing them with the impertinent questioning
to which a woman in similar circum
stances is subjected. M One of the most
formidable foes a public woman has to
combat, and one against which her shield
of natural reserve is often an ineffectual
weapon, is the ill-bred, though possibly
well-meant, curiosity of the world at large
into her private life- People call it -tak
ing an interest.'' To tike an interest Ln
public women and their characteristics is
natural enough, but to wish to Dry into
the inner recesses of their private lives, to
dig into their past, to mthl*s~[y draw
aside the curtain they would wish kept
closed, is surely a cruel act, and is far too
common in a world which teems with
kind:.-
Directly a new feminine name comes to
the fore in any public branch — say in Hter
ature-ythe questions at once arise:
Who is ~he? What is she? Can you tell
me anything about her? The one who
can teli anything about her is iistened to
eagerly — «o eagerly that the temptation
COSTUME FOR GROWING GIRL.
Electric-blue doth, with handsomely embroidered lace yoke and trimming. Satin ribbon
sash tied at the tide. The folds round the throat are also of satin.
Xo. 2. Striped Bitcuit Crep'yn. icith yoke, of green silk arranged in pipings, with bands of
\ lace insertion and lace frill. Similar trimming on the cuff's and stirt.
Ito draw on the imagination and lend a
little local color is irresistible. ■'Whisper
ing tongues can poison truth,' and in this
manner good names and reputations are
gossiped away every day. Why should a
woman, because she has, by her own in
dustry and talent, made a name ior her
self, be worried with useless and idle ques
tions by people who only meet her for a
few hours in society, and will probably
never meet her a?am? People do not
mean to b« unkind, but they iet their
curiosity get the better of them. If they
cannot glean the information they want
in byways they go to the fountain
head" itself, and probe in a roundabout
fashion until the public woman is
plagued to death by their questions. She
may not choose to tell much, and prob
ably makes up her mind beforehand to tell
nothing at all; but to refuse to reply to
certain questions gives rise to suspicion,
and leaves the impression that there is
something in the background. Therefore,
the hapless victim (especiailv if there is
something in the background) writhes be
neath the torture, and, if she is a nervous,
sensitive woman, suffers untold agonies.
A literary woman gives the world,
in her books, as much of herself as !
she cares to give. She throws down
no challenge, invites no comment but
literary criti:i«m, and why she should!
be vivisected to satisfy the curiosity
of the world at large is an open question.
Why should the peculiarities of public :
women, their love affairs, their places of '
abode, their dres*. their domestic arrange- ■
merits, in short, every detail of their pri- ■
vate affairs, oe trumpeted forth to the
world? Kingsley say-: -The past's our
own; no tiend can take that from us.''
Our present and our future are ours,
too, and ours alone. One woman, hold
ing a public position, lately thought
riirht to change her religion! This act
which one would have thought a purely
personal affair, evoked so much criticism,
and involved her in so many disagreeable
interviews, that, altnough not actually led
I to the stake, she has practically suffered a
martyrdom.
It "has been often said that all women
love notoriety. This is not so. Too often
it is thrust upon them by the necessity to
earn, and when such is the case sureiy it is
not an unreasonable request when the pub
lic woman asks to be allowed to cherish
her one ewe-iamb— the sacredness of Her
private life.
The Last Xew Tea Ball.
The very last design for a tea ball takes ''.
the shape of a pair of shears, with a per- j
forated ball or round box where the blades \
are usually found. By manipulating the j
handle the ball can be opened and closed I
and the tea removed as often as one iikes. j
The device is assuredly peculiar and ia un
deniably new, but whether it is an im
provement on the familiar bail with chain
GirFs Frock in gray crejx>n, with tucked
yoke of gray surah. Blouse bodice, with
straps and bores of velvet ribbon to match.
Hat in gray fancy coarse straw. >rith insertion
of cream guipure. Large upright bovn and
paste ornament.
Attachment is open to discussion, says the
Philadelphia Times.
According to eastern ideas — and the
East must be taken as an authority on
tea — no particle of aroma should be al
lowed to escape. Every care should b«
taken to keep the pot closed during the
first rive minutes' drawing, which is the
limit the true tea-maker allows. The3e
peculiar ba - I . :..:■ do not contribute
- tat end. It may be possible, even
fascinating, to dip the shears in a cup of
hot water, but so doing will never produce
ideal tea. The chain allows the bail to
hang within the pot, and the chain en
ables it to be fastened to the spout. So
that when the lid is closed no infinitesimal
portion of the tea's best quality can escape.
The shears and all other numerous devices
showi: . _• . - fail of this end.
The reproach of the Hindoo gentleman
who said "You make soup, you Ameri
can ladies, not no tea. " is hardly deserved
to-day. American ladies have learned to
use the infuser, and use it well, but if they
allow absurdities of all sort* to gain ground
they will s':r-:-ly lose wha: they have
gained. Their tea may not be soup", but it
will assuredly lack the delicacy that is
true tea's essential characteristic.
Pretty
Women
Desire above all things to remain pretty.
You remember the pleasant comment made
at your wedding. "How vounz she looks.'*
But how time has turned" the" tables. The
peachy softness has left your cheers, but,
worst of all, that soft, brown hair, of which
you were so proud in your younger days, is
now fast becoming streaked with gray. It
once seemed fine "and silky, but now ap-
pears coarse. It no longer has a gloss, It
persists in falling out. It cracks and
breaks in a most provoking way. Bat
Yale's
Hair Tonic,
A scientific preparation, will restore to you
the golden, brown or shining black tresses
of your youth. It is perfectly harmless.
It has stood the test of time and will ac-
complish just what Is claimed for it. There
is scarcely a city or hamlet in the civilized
world which cannot supply undisputed evi-
dences of what Yale's Hair Tonic has done
for ladies and gentlemen in restoring their
, gray or faded hair to its natural color,
health and glossiness.
All druggists. Price $1. Also Yale's Skin
Food. $1 50: Yale's Complexion Cream. #1:
Yale's Face Powder. 50c; Yale's Beaaty Soap,
25e. MILE. YALE. Health and Complexion
Specialist, Temple of Beauty. 146 State street,
| .■-.: Chicago. Guide to Beauty mailed tree. i
SEW TO-DAY.
irai
Cages! Jitt!
A Great Variety of SUMMER OIAAA
CAPES, worth £30, at .. gIU.UU
A La'se Assortment of RICH
EMBROIDERED CAPES,
in Black and Colored, worth Oi O w A
$25, at gli.Ol;
UnSWJ AUNTY SHORT JACK-
- ETS. the Latest Cut and w|lA A A
Style, from £>!"•""
Upward
EXTRA SPECIAL!
WASH VESTS in Pique. worth $2 ■TA.
each, to close at O\J{j
WAISTS.
An Endless Variety or WASH Xn
WAISTS, from.... 00
Upward
Si Waists, Jjiabl dilii HjiUIdIL
Prices Ranging from t5)-r.UU
Upward
SKIRTS.
A Beaatifnl Line of SUMMER
SKIRTS. wash goods, in all coi- ~"\/»
ors. from I •Jl>
Upward
G 7EEDIER & CO.,
! Sb E. Cot Geary SL and Grant lie., S. P.
mm
BRANCH HOUSE,
1 223 SOUTH BROADWAY,
LOS ANGELES.
CLEARANCE SALE
...0F....
FRAMED PICTURES
&' r * -^'^ '"•••■'•^- > - '"'•".#
AT LESS THIS 1-2 OF COST.
Over 100 Subjects in Artotypes and
Colors. Size, 20x34. Framed in
3-Inch Frames.
IVORY and GOLD,
OXIDIZED SILVER,
ANTIQUE OAK and
SILVER FLORAL,
Worth $5. Reduced to $1 50.
■
FOR ONE WEEK ONLY.
Electrical Construction and Repairing
of All Kinds. Estimates Given.
Special attention giTen to Sporting
Goods and Barber Snpplies. Razors,
Shears and Knives ground and repaired.
818-820 Market Street
Flielan Building.
Factory— 3o First Street.
WHALEBONE.
PACIFIC STEAII WHALIXG COMPANY'S
I Genuine Shell lTlialebdfle "On* Brand."
Specially Prepared and Selected for tbe
DRESS- mm -AM) CORSET TRADE.
All Sizes. Every Packaze Guaranteed.
©ne f ial «0 convince you of its merits and
superiority over all other brands in the market.
t » TYTT7C -*- that your dressnuLtsers do
LAUI not use inferior grades or an bad.
i ntes.
SOP EQUAL TO OUH "OR* A BRISD. 9 *
I Never treats, most elasuc, lasts locgest, cheap-
est and best.
For sale i>j ill tfee Isadlag dry-goods bosses
Office and Factory, 30 California Street,
SAX FB AX CISCO.