The San Francisco call. [volume], June 30, 1895, Page 15, Image 15

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

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SOME INTERESTING
FASHION CHAT
Thus far I have never written at any
length about mourning gowns, concerning
which 51 " ie - Grundy has laid down some
very positive rules governing the period
during which such somber garments
shouM be worn. For instance, a widow
BhouM wear mourning for eighteen
montiis, linage is worn during the first six
moiiilis with crepe, during the next six
months silk and lace, and during the last
six balf mourning materials. At the be
ginning of mourning a long dress shquld
be worn in the house. The English widow's
cap is now in favor in America. At the
fieeves and neck trimmings of batiste are
used,, being more agreeable than crepe
trimmings, which so frequently discolor
the skin. Youn^j widows frequently wear
indoors a veil of crepe luxe in black or
white. Such a veil falls just over the
shoulders.
Should a widow marry before the time
her mourning expires she can wear either
averj' plain white dress without ornamen
tation of any kind, with a long black lace
veil covering the face and falling over the
train, or a gown of pearl gray silk and a
bonnet of the same shade trimmed with
lilac or mauve.
Mourning l<»r a parent, father or mother
in-law shou d be worn one year; six
months wool and crepe, three months silk
and three months half mourning. Mourn
ing for grandparents, brothers or sisters
lasts six months, and no English crepe is
used. Light mourning may be donned for
three months for an aunt or uncle. Again,
parents are wearing black for even their
very young children.
tfp to six years of age children wear as
their mourning dead white; older ones
■wear either black or gray trimmed with
white. Ido not think I shall ever forget
when a little child seeing twin babies ab
solutely covered with crepe because they
had lost their father. Even the big baby
carriage was upholstered in black. They
were very jolly mit«s, and I used to wander
how under such circumstances they could
ever shake a rattle or crow like other
babies, but I do not consider this dressing
of the twins so bad as to dress in deep
niourning nervous and impressionable
children who may be made miserable by
such a constant reminder of a loss.
Dead white has been worn by the Prin
cess of Wales as mourning when at home;
indeed, it is considered in the best of taste
for those who can afford it. A black dress
is always presumably worn to funerals
whether the wearer is in any way or not
connected with the mourners.
Mourning is exceedingly expensive, as
only the best materials can be used if
thecostume is t . look like anything, and
even then it will soon become shabby if
worn in a dusty place where constant
bnishings are necessary.
A severely simple dress of good cash
mere trimmed with English crepe will
covt, even in Paris, about $60, and that is
without silk linines.
Huge veils reaching to the bottom of the
dr»->-s and enveloping the figure are much
worn in Europe, and are of the lightest,
most transparent texture. A* new crepe
has just been placed upon the English
market, and it has a great advantage over
any manufactured heretofore, in that
dampness does not affect it in the least;
indeed, it may be positively rained on
without being spoiled.
Cheap outfits are, of course, to be had,
but they are the poorest investments pos
eible.
For yonng women and girls are shown
swell nuting dresses for demi-m3arning
whfch are most necoming. One of wiiiie
pique v,;\b tinished -vith a ruche of black
hiffon, while just below the elbow was
tied a how of black satin ribbon. "With
this were worn blacic cloves and a dainty
, hat "f accordion-pleated black chiffon,
with just a touch of whire. For girls the
hat is of the same fabric, but in this case
white with the scrap of black appearing
amidst the sunny whiteness.
r>i;t to change the subject, the French
modists have all been rushed preparing for
Blouse of striped white glace silt:, studded
with pink flowers. Guipure revers and cuffs;
green satin rosette bows. — The Queen.
the Grand Prix, and every one of them has
been racking her versatile brain for abso
lutely new conceptions, so we may shortly
expect not a few delightful novelties, and
many model gowns will be shipped in our
direction.
This much I can tell you in advance that
many of the bodices for the Grand Prix
sre to be fashioned of satin covered with
Russian net and motives of guipure in con
ventional designs; the sleeves will princi
pally be a la balloon and reach the elbow
only, but odd varieties of sleeves are now
the rage, showing at a glance the style and
chic possessed by the contriver. Long
white cloves will be almost universally
seen.
Painted linens will be the favorite ma
terials, and delicately shaded poppies in
the palest of mauves and rose pinks are
the flowers most generally used for their
decoration. One charming toilet is com
posed of linen and applications of Bruges
lace, over mauve taffetas ; the sunshade,
cape, dress are entirely covered with this
beautiful lace.
White chine silks with bouquets of
golden marguerites, muslins of every pale
shade, with alternate lace, pearl and silver
insertions; light shot silk skirts and capes
t6 match, trimmed with only a pinked
ruching around the hood— with which all
the capes are made— are among the prin
cipal novelties of which I have read and
heard about.
Some tailor gowns are also to be seen in
pearl pay and white in the most beautiful
satin-faced alpacas and piques, giving them
a particular cachet only found in Paris
made suits. The jackets are short and
smart in cut and the f u n s ' <irts tit t i got i y
around the hips; the graceful sleeves are
works of art, having the fullness distrib
uted in exactly the right places. All these
points being duly considered, make the
tailor gown \a thing of beauty, but they
will not be a jot forever, as in a month or
bo a new model will command our admir
ation.
Fashion has decreed that the fichu shall
hold its own for some time to come and it
is made in muslin or lace or silk and lace
with equally good effect, but for my own
part I prefer the muslin. Those made of
eilkare usually passed beneath a belt at
the back, the muslin ones do not reach the
waist, and are rounded in the back falling
in front with long ends to the knees. For
indoor wear gowns are cut to show the
throat, if it is a pretty one, otherwise do
cover it up, and the style is an agreeable
one. especially for short-necked women.
It is predicted that at Ascot plaids will
be much worn and they will measure
about an inch and a half and three colors
are usually combined. Plum, green and
black is one favorite combination, and
white, blue and purple is very much liked.
All these plaids arc direct from Paris and
some very beautiful ones have found their
way here and are to be found in a few of
our own leading stores. These plaids not
Coat and Skirt in gray alpaca. The former it made with revert. Th* waistcoat and
band are of white satin. — The Queen.
; only are used for blouses, but for skirts
; also. Tiic-se entire costumes of plaid I
I hope will not be indulged in except by
i tall and stylish women, who can carry
them off properly. One costume, described
j as unusually pretty, had a green, white
; and black plaid skirt and a bodice of green
I shot silk, covered with a grass lawn, finely
j embroidered, with great sleeves of the
! plaid eilk. Blouses of plaid silk are im
! proved by having yokes of a plain color,
; covered with heavy Irish point, and if the
I waist is not small and is sharply outlined,
Black and white Chine silk blouse, with
lace cape.— The Queen.
have a belt of black, either silk or satin
ribbon.
Muslins, grass lawns, chambries, organ
dies, chiffons and batistes, in fact every
light, cool, pretty, fresh and dainty fabric,
are being skillfully handled by our best
modistes, not, one of them scorning to use
the most inexpensive of them as all of
them can be made up into gowns for —
what shall I say? — the prettiest woman in
the world, a highbrod American gentle
woman. One of our own modistes, that is
she 18 a Frenchwoman, but has been here
for years, has some gowns direct from
Two charming costumes for young teomen, designed to be worn at a f 'oral fete.— Revue
de la Mode.
THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JUNE 30, 1895.
Paris which are worth traveling miles to
see. I must describe a few of them. The
first is a dainty thing of sheerest muslin,
dead white and embroidered, but the waist
has the most exquisite yoke of dark yellow
Valenciennes lace insertion with here and
there a line of white embroidery; the lace
is of the finest, and the sleeves
especially novel. This gown is made over
the same sheer white muslin, but not em
broidered, and only cost to import about
$100; and then, lying close beside it, I saw
a gown of creamy batiste, all embroidered,
and not made over silk, but over the most
exquisitely fine orange colored muslin,
under which came a third skirt of plain
batiste. The neck of this lovely creation
had a dainty ruche of yellow field flowers.
Yet another frock wa'sof batiste, but this
one had its embroidery all done in a pale
shade of grass green, most chic and sum
mery, the ribbons of Batin exactly match
ing.
These models should be seen to be ap
preciated, and that they are appreciated
has manifested the good taste of our
women.
These gowns show a norelty in that they
! appear to bare no seams, being united with
I 'lines of hemstitching. Now organdies are
I extremely pretty, as are many of the surn
j mer goods, but they are sadly perishable,
| while the muslin gown and thft batistes I
I have described are most serviceable, stand'
I ing any number of washings, but if one is
clever with the needle and scissors and
wants inexpensive little gowns let me de
scribe one which will do as a model for
many. It is of yellowish dotted muslin
made up with black satin ribbons, and the
frills are all edged with a pretty little black
lace. Suoh muslin can he found very
good at 20 cents per yard and fifteen yards
is sufficient. Now I must leave this sub
ject of light and flimsy things and tell you
about tennis and golf gowns, as they are
now thought to leolc better when the skirt
and corselet are cut in one piece, as this is
said to insure the perfection of graceful
lines to the figure and prevent all annoy
ances which may arise from having to wear
a belt.
AH sporting gowns have their cape or
mantel matching or contrasting with the
cloth, and silks only are tolerated for lin
ings and are harmonious in tone. Yacht
ing and boating costumes are, as I have
before mentioned, adorned not only with
cuffs and collars of white or ecru lawn, but
with frills as well, which are all made so as
to be easily removed, giving the gown a
pretty air of freshness. Piqu«, canvas and
white duck also figure extensively for col
lars, cuffs and reveres, and are likewise
made up so as to be easily laundried. The
cloth always is made up so as to lie over
these cotton duplicates, giving a perfect
finish to them. Vogue remarks: "Truly
the coming season will have but few
charms for w»men whose purses are scant
ily filled, for what with dresses devouring
thirty yards of material in the making,
Louis Seize hats, adorned by one
or two dozen fin* marabout feathers,
besides flowers, lace, ospreys, jewels, etc.,
and sunshades made entirely oi orchids or
other expensive blossoms' feminine ac
couterments will be simply ruinous if one
wants to follow Madame Le Mode'a dictates
ever so humbly." Well, lam thankful to
say that the average California girl, «yen
with restricted means, manages to find a
charm in most seasons and usually looks
as pretty and fetching under her simple
white India parasol with its chiffon puffs
as though costly blossoms were nodding
over her— she certainly has as happy a
time, even if her gown only cost $5, as
any maiden to be found anywhere, but
then you see we have so much sunshine
here that it is not surprising if a good deal
of it gets into our hearts, and if we can
keep it there a good time is assured under
most circumstances. To conclude let me
tell you that hats adorned with nastur
tium's and white wings are fashionable and
colored tulles matching the flowers used
are very much used on summer hats for
country wear. Mabcella.
THE WOMAN`S BIBLE
Tntervlew With Mrs. Eliza
beth Cady Stan
ton.
She Has Met With Chilling Indif
ference From the Sex She Is
Striving to Help.
From the numerous paragraphs afloat
one is led to suppose that there is to be
a new edition of the Bible arranged to
suit the fancy of the nineteenth-century
woman.
That is all a mistake. There never was
the slightest intention on the part
of the feminine revising committee
of revising the entire Bible or even any
part of it for the purpose of giv
ing the public a new edition of the great
volume.
The women who conceived this idea of
"The Woman's Bible," as they have
named the book that is destined to be a
subject of indignation, agitation, interest
and probable profit, have only in view an
interesting compilation of comments
touching upon those portions of the Holy
Writ that especially relate to women.
Such a book would have inestimable
value as a reflection of the mental attitude
of the woman of to-day toward the Bible,
provided it were possible to have com
ments from intclli iont women who still
believe the Bible to be inspired from cover
to cover, as well as irorn those wno look
upon it as merely a history of the Jewish
people and the evenui incident to the com
ing of Christ and perhaps as fallible as
other histories.
But it appears this is not altogether
feasible. Mrs. Elizabeth Cady Stanton, the
head and front of tl I possible offending,
in a recent interview with the writer says
of this— but, without ionbt the whole in
terview would be of irlterest, being at any
rate, an authentic statement of what the
women hope to do with "The Woman's
Bible."
"Mrs. Stanton, will you tell me, for pub
lication, what is 'The Woman's Bible?'"
" 'The Woman's Bible' is to consist of
comments on those parts of the Bible that
refer to women, which can all be found in
about one-eleventh part of the Old and New
Testaments."
"How long will it be before the book
will be ready to be given to the public?"
"We hope to get it out within a year, but
may not.
"What was your idea as to your coadju
tors In the work?"
"My idea was to have all sects and shade
of thought represented, to get the opinion
of the women of the nineteenth century as
to what they thought of the Bible. But I
fear I shall not succeed in that. Evangeli
cal women believe that it is the word of
God, and it would be irreverent to pass
any criticism on it. Liberal women reject
it altogether as authority and thinK it a
waste of time to read it, much less write
about it."
"What is your own opinion?"
"I do not agree with either aide. The
book has a strong hold on multitudes of
women, and is the chief block in the way
of their emancipation. The general ten
dency of the teaching is to degrade woman,
to assign her an interior position, subject
to man. It makes her the origin of evil,
marriage a condition of slavery, maternity
a curse. The Pentateuch makes all fe
males unclean, a female lamb too unclean
for a burnt offering F«ad the riv« books
through and decide for yourself."
"What i=? proposed as the mission of the
woman's Bible?"
"I want to snow women that the book is
written by men for men, and that it is a
blasphemy for the authors to claim that
God thus degraded the mothers of the race.
No man has ever seen or talked with God,
and when those old Hebrews tell us God
said so, we know it was a figment of their
imagination."
"What is to be your own share in the
work?"
"I am commenting on the Pentateuch,
and hope to get that out as part first dur
ing the summer."
Tbe women who have worked long and
faithfully for the emancipation of their sex
have long ago come to realize the powerful
weapon their enemies hold in these three
words. "The Bible says."
While the great mass of women believe
the Bible to be the actual word of God, its
authority closes their ears to all allusions
to the taking of any position on any subject
whatever not in accordance with the teach*
ings of the testaments. Therefore it will
be seen that the breaking down of the au
thority of the Bible as the inspired word of
God will give an added impetus to the
women's movement which has always
found its strongest opponents in the pulpit
and its general teachings of the inferiority
of women based always upon the word of
God as revealed in the Bible.
No one will gainsay, no matter what
position he or she may take on the woman
question, that the leaders who plan the
campaigns of the Suffrage party have made
Napoleonic efforts for the cause, and that
this hist movement of blunting the edge of
the keenest sword that is wielded acainst
them is a stratagem worthy of their already
well-earned laurels as leaders of what has
been bo long looked upon as a forlorn hope.
K. N.
A QUICK BICYCLE COURTSHIP
Some of the Advantages of I.ovemukliiß
on a Wheel.
"Talk about sentiment and cycling,"
said Charlie Van Anden. "There is noth
ing knocks the romance out of things so
altogether as taking a girl out for a spin on
her wheel, or joining a party off for a
bicycling tour.
"It's about the most prosaic proceeding
I know, to trundle a young woman's ma
chine up hill for her; or to strike a rough
bit of road and have to go single file along
the side path, she yards ahead, you me
andering on behind. Or even on the level
it is deuced slow. You couldn't possibly
ask & girl to go unless you were very fond
of her, and then it would only be an ag
gravation, for you can't get close enough
to squeeze her hand or tell her how nice
the is."
"Now. see bfre, old fellow," I remarked,
"it is very evident that your experience
with girls and wheels is limited. I hap
pened to have been best man last Tuesday
upon a happy occasion, the climax of a
quick courtship, where I was of it, but not
not in it.
"It was just a year ago this month when
the Ramsdells arranged a tour through
the Hoosatonic Valley. Now, Mrs. Stewart
Ramsdell is not in the least fitted for a
chaperone, though she seems to take pleas
ure in the role. This was the way it all
happened.
"Well, it amused me more than a little
to see the maneuvers of that week's trip.
Jim ranged himself next to Miss Mazy,
who looked wonderful smart in her linen
frock and shirt waist, and a nondescript,
natty headgear with a peak back and
front.
"Jim's divinity insisted upon pushing
her own machine up all the hills, and Jim
would take the inside track, keeping his
wheel abreast of hers, but on his leit bo
that he could manage to get close to her.
He was always doing something for her,
or helping her with ncr wheel ; and the
way their hands did get tangled up was a
caution. I kept my weather eye on them
just to see the fun and help along in case
of an emergency.
"One day it began to rain toward even
ing and we stopped to rig up. It was
touching to see the way Jim buttoned his
lady love into her mackintosh and put on
her rubbers. The operation took so long
that we started on, much to Sister Raras
dell s disgust, as Jim was the rich bachelor
uncle in the family, and too precious to let
slip. B he had to hurry, for Stewart had
her toggery in his carrier, and he had gone
ahead to make arrangements at the Bear
and Fox Inn, where we were to atop over
night.
"We arrived about 7 o'clock, bnt that
blessed pair of spoons never put in an ap
pearance until after 9, with Sister Rams
dell nearly in a fit meanwhile. They
turned it off by solemnly declaring they
took the wrong road and got lost. I went
out with a lantern to help them unload,
and my eye lit, first thing, on a long hair
pin sticking to one of Jim's buttons on the
front of his coat. I kept mum, but picked
up the giveaway and restored it to its right
ful owner. It was jolly to hear her cun
ning little laugh and see the color come up
into her cheeks. Jim looked pleased to
death. *
"The last day, on the home run, it was
evident things were coming to a climax.
Jim never left his charmer's side, and
how he did make eyes at her! It was
equally evident that Mrs. Ramsdell was
bent on nipping the climax in the bud.
She planted nerself on Miss Mazy's other
side, and there she stayed. No amount of
diversion on my part or persuasion on
Jim's could budge hen But that little
brown-eyed girl was equal to her. The
day was a scorcher, and she knew her
future connection-in-laws too, too solid
flesh would melt under pressure ; so what
did she do but nod to Jim and insist upon
our all racing for home. Mrs. Ramsdell's
vociferous protestations were of no avail:
we all saw the game and joined in the fun.
Off we started, but in ten minutes' time
Mrs. R. was completely winded, Jim "and
Miss Mcßride out of sight, and the rest of
us had dropped out of the race.
"How they managed it I did not insist
upon knowing, but Jim did confide in me,
when the engagement was announced, so
far as to say that they settled it on that
home run, probably when they stopped to
rest from their exertions and cool off under
some shady tree.
"And last Tuesday evening I had the
honor of lending my assistance when Miss
Mazy, demurest possible little bride, was
translormed into Mrs. Jim. On that occa
sion Sister Ramsdell's joy seemed a bit
forced.
"So, my man," I concluded, knocking
my pipe against the railing, "never again,
because of your narrow personal experi
ence, declare that sentiment and cycling
are incompatible. When you are so
tempted recall to mind that rapid court
ship to which I was a witnes."
Harold Halsted.
FIRST PRINCIPLE OF A GRACE
FUL CARRIAGE
To put the feet down prettily is to walk
gracefully, to seem to have a pretty foot
whether it is really pretty or not, to secure
a stylish carriage, to make the skirt hang
well and the waist seem long, to — well, to
put the foot down well is to secure many
of the blessings of life. Don't believe it
when you are told to put the toe down
first. The foot should be so lightly poised
on the ankle that when the lift from the
hip is made in taking a step, the foot nat
urally swings, toe down, so that the for
ward part of the foot touches the ground
first. That is very different in effect from
stiffly pointing the toe down and trying to
walk that way. Put the feet down "so that
the heels would keep uretty closely on an
imaginary chalk line, the toes always fall
ing a little outside of the line. The full
weight of the body should be on the foot
that is on the ground, and one ought to be
able to balance prettily at any moment on
the single foot that is' supposed to be car
rying the walker's weight. If this can be
done it is proof that the body is well poised
and well carried.
It is, of course, nice to have a "springy"
step, the giris in the book usually have 'em,
and the nice young hero always has that
sort; but no matter how springy the step
is, if the foot is put down properly the
head will be carried along a perfectly level
line, and not go bobbing up and down like
a ship in a high sea. If the heels follow
a line and the toes fall inside the line a
little then the body will advance without
any side-swinging of the shoulders. This
turning of the body first to the right and
then to the left is a general fault of Ameri
can women, and if the foot is put down
properly this awkwardness will be avoided.
The woman who wears a house gown of
correct length that gracefully hangs about
the feet and touches the floor all around
should hardly lift her sole from the floor
when she walks. The heel rises a little,
but the toe pushes prettily forward, shov
ing the hem of the dress out of the way as
the step is taken. To put the foot down
well is to walk well, to stand well, to be
well, and, besides, it has a moral side, for
the girl who has the strength of mind to
say "No" in the right place is the girl
who can "put her foot down," isn't she?
If a woman could only be guaranteed that
footing her bills would be included she
would be converted to the proper way of
walking at once, but that cannot be done,
and graceful walkers are very scarce.
HOW TO PACK SUMMER FINERY
To get the pufferies of summer gowns
into the summer trunks without ruining
them is a severe task. Sleeves must be
stuffed out with crisp brown tissue paper,
and each sleeve incased in a similar cover
ing. All loops of bows must be stuffed
out, rosettes must be covered and sup
ported by paper, especially the soft little
chiffon ones, and fronts of pleated chiffon
must be cased in it. Then devote a deep
tray to all bodices that have big sleeves.
Lay the bodices with their wrong sides
Hat on the bottom of the tray, the
sleeves resting on their armholes ana
standing stiffly up, supported by their tissue*
Btuffing. You will be surprised how many
bodices can be ntted in this way into a
tray. Often the bodice itself will take a
sort of pleat so that the two sleeves rest
close together, but not crushing each
other. A tray properly packed will show
a bewildering assortment of prrpat soft
puffs, and in between these, softly so as
not to crush or be crushed, all sorts of
little dainties may go, such as lace ruffs,
fancy collars, knots and bows of ribbons.
Finally, tissue paper rolled in soft balls
and twisted into loose ropes secures any
place that seems inclined to wobble.
Bodices will unpack from such a tray and
show not a trace of travel.
The stiffened organ-pipe skirt should
have a trunk long enough to obviate the
necessity of folding the skirt, for to fold
without great care is to crease, and if the
folds be the rounded organ-pipe kind each
one must be built out with paper, though
if you are pushed for room, underwear
may be folded and laid in the pleats. Soft
paper should be laid over each garment
and between all portions of the garment
that rub against each other.
Sash ends and long streamers of ribbon
may be rolled over with long strips of
paper a little wider than the ribbon, the
paper being pinned to keep the roll in
place. The airy nothings known as theater
and reception hats may bo packed eight
and ten deep, only each must be re-en
forced with tissue paper that while the
combined conglomeration of gewgaws is
so closely wedged that nothing can move
a half inch, yet no tiny Hare of feather or
bit of lace is crushed.
The fashionable rouad cape that falls in
godets must be covered first with tissue
paper, then with stiff brown paper. The
cape, paper and all, is rolled into a tight
cornucopia, like a magnified Christmas
tree ornament. The entirely plain cape
packs perfectly this way. Tne fancy one
must have more care, all jets and headings
being literally packed in tissue, all frills
and puffs haying tissue re-enforcement,
and ruches being built up with paper till,
no matter how sift the material, crushing
is impossible.
The picture bat may be rendered secure
not only with paper, but by packing about
it all the little airy nothings of the toilet
that are too dainty to go elsewhere. Hats
too delicate even for such packing are sus
pended in boxes by tape, cross tapes pre
venting swinging, and the boxes are
packed snugly so they will not be crushed.
HOME EMERGENCY TREATMENT
FOR THE FOURTH OF JULY
AH the ounces of prevention that wise
men can weigh out will not stave off pain
ful accidents in this season of the glorious
Fourth, so the far-sighted mother looks
over her stock of home cures, knowing
that they are the most effective agents of
the season, even if they are deoreciated
currency in the adage. These should in
clude old linen or sheet lint, sweet ois,
vaseline, bicarbonate of soda, witch hazel
for bruises, lead and opium wash for
sprains, and a 5 per cent solution of car
bolic acid to be diluted with two
thirds water and used to cleanse wounds
and cuts. All supplies are best kept in a
clean basket lined with unbleached muslin
or oiled muslin with a cover of unbleached
muslin to keep the contents free from dust.
A small roll of absorbent cotton should be
added to the contents of the basket and a
few muslin bandages. Then there should
be a pair of scissors with dull points, well
sharpened, needles, thread, common and
safety pins, courtplaster and a small bottle
of flexible collodion for small cuts and
burns.
Collodion forms a coating that excludeß
the air, and should be applied with a
camels-hair-brush after the cut is cleansed
from sand and dirt by using either car
bolic or boracic acid solution or a solution
made with borax and water.
Use a bit of absorbent cotton for wash
ing cuts and bruises, putting several
pieces into the basin and throwing them
into the fire after using. Sponges should
not be used for open wounds unless first
put through an elaborate cleansing process
which requires time and labor. Cotton is
quite as good except for a serious surgical
operation, and then the surgeon supplies
the sponges.
Witch hazel is excellent for bruises, and
is more efficacious if made hot and applied
a few inches from the discoloration, the
heat relaxing the congested blood vessels,
while cold applications cause them to
contract still more. Arnica is unsafe to
use for bruises if the skin is broken, as it is
a powerful poison, and the absorption
through the skin is sufficient to poison
any one using it.
The Fourth's greatest dancer to women
lies in the possibility of clothing catching
fire. If every woman would try to impress
it strongly upon her own mind what she
must do at such a time, not a few lives
might be saved thereby. The process is
simple, the difficult point being to remem
ber and act on it at the right moment.
Don't run about, but try to smother the
flame by lying down and rolling in a rug,
a shawl or blanket, or if that be not at
hand it is better to roll upon the ground.
Children should be made acquainted with
this point as far as possible.
Pat a burned person quickly in bed and
cover up with plenty of blankets. There
is always more or less depression, known
as "shock," which is sometimes very
dangerous and which may occur with
slight burns. The symptoms of shock are
cold skin, feeble pulse and respiration,
partial or complete unconsciousness
and sometimes nausea, pallor and a
pinched look about the face. Hot water
in rubber bags and bottles should be
placed at the feet, under the armpits and
between the legs, and whisky and brandy
be given. One teaspoonful of whisky in
one tablespoonful of hot water is the dose,
and it should be given slowly and carefully
to a semi-conscious patient. Repeat every
fifteen minutes. Hot milk, tea or coffee
may be substituted, and the physician
should be sent for while these things are
being done. Do not attempt to dress the
burns without a doctor. For severe burns
where the skin is blistered or destroyed,
oil, vaseline or balsam of Peru are fre
quently used spread on sheet lint. The
clothing should be cut off with scissors,
and the physician will direct the after
treatment. A person suffering from burns
should be kept in bed, a& the exhaustion is
great and there is danger of pneumonia,
acute bronchial irritation and also even in
slight burns frequent irritation of the
small intestines. All of these should be
prepared for by keeping the patient in a
recumbent position and using fluid or light
diet liberally supplied.
When the small boy comes in with
powder blown into his face use a thickly
sprinkled layer of bicarbonate of soda,
unless the 6kin is destroyed, when oil or
sheet lint or old linen cut into a mask is
the best. If the soda is used make a mask
of linen, moisten it and upply over the
soda.
Boracic acid is a mild disinfectant, which
can be dissolved at home. Use half an
ounce of the powder to a pint of boiled or
sterilized water. This is a safe wash for
the eyes, using a glass eve-cup which fits
the socket of the eye. Use the cud half
full of the solution, and, holding the face
over it till the cup is in position, throw
back the head and open and shut the eye
several times, thus permitting the water
to cleanse the eyeball and remove any for
eign substance.
If bleeding occurs notice if the blood
comes in spurts and is bright red or flows
freely and is dark red. The bright red is
from the arteries, and a pressure must be
made between the cut and the heart. If
dark red there is a hemorrhage from the
veins, and pressure must be made below
the cut and farthest from the heart, as
the blood in the veins is returning to the
heart while the blood in the aiteries is direct
from the heart. The arterial hemorrhage
is more dangerous because the flow is more
rapid in the arteries and the loss of blood
greater in the same space of time. Make
a compress of a towel and tie over the
muscle in the arm or leg from which the
hemorrhaee occurs, makinar it tight with a
bandage or silk handkerchief.
For bleeding from the nose make a tight
wad of paper or white lint and force it be
tween the outside of the gums and the up
per lip, holding it with the fingers. Ice
held to the bridge of the nose and to the
nape of the neck assists the forming of
clots. A clot should not be removed for
several hours after the bleeding ceases.
Try to forget your own fear and think only
of the necessary and important work to be
done. Then you will not faint and the
doctor will praise you for your nerve.
THE CUP THAT CHEERS
It is not the Dresden china, solid
silver and riddle-marees that make tasting
tea delightful, and a cup of that amber
fluid may be part of the welcome of
a most modest hostess. If necessary she
can dispense entirely with the table, and
the one maid with a clean apron and fresh
cap can bring in on a napkined tray the
little blue Japanese teapot full of fresh tea,
the two or three tiny blue cups and sau
cers, the little blue 5-cent plate with the
home wafers, the glass saucer with sliced
lemon and the little open bowl of cube
sugar. If you have little solid silver
spoons that is nice, but if you haven't
their place can be rilled by plated ones so
dainty that no one will criticize. The tea
has been made in the kitchen by pouring
boiling water into the teapot through a
strainer containing the proper quantity of
tea. Most Japanese pots have a porcelain
strainer at the top under the cover. This
strainer should oe removed before the
cover is returned, that the tea may not
grow strong from drippings.
Such a tray may be deposited on any
table, at the hostesses' elbow, and without
any effort or fuss the hostess may pour
and serve; or a little bamboo table, per
haps one with the legs shortened by saw
ing off, may make part of the furnishing of
the room, and the cups, saucers and sugar
may be in place on a spread bine and white
paper napkin. Then the tea and lemon
are to 6a brought in by the maid, if a 5
o'clock teakettle is part of the outfit, thea
everything may bw in place. The simplest
little nickel kettle, with a long handle and
mounted en a oast-iron stand - over its
nickel lamp, serves as well as solid silver,
elaborated copper or brass,- and keepi
clean much more easily. The Japanese
pot may be nsed, or an aluminum teaball,
which is as efficient, nearly as pretty and
much less expensive than silver. A pretty
hospitality, a fine grade oi tea and unaf
fected grace of manner will complete the
welcome. Nobody will miss embroidered
tea cloths and all the ether expensive no
tions.
GOOD SKIN POSSIBLE WITHOUT
COSMETICS.
So much advice is given to women about
the use of cosmetics that one might think
a fine complexion something in the nature
of a luxury, attainable only by people with
plenty of money and time, but it isn't so.
Witness the peasant girls that come ovef
to do housework, with complexions like
satin and rose leaves. Cosmetics are for
skins that need concealment, and any
woman who will take natural care of her
skin can make her richest neighbor green
with envy, no matter how much time and
how many bottles of wonderful stuff the
latter has for her skin. Lots of outdoor life,
plain, homely food and plenty of exercise
are necessities. Bathing? Well, of course,
it is good to be clean, but the lovely bloom*
ing skins of those women who come out of
hovels and never saw a bathtub are proofs
that bathing or even decent cleanliness
isn't essential to a lovely skin. You see,
when people take no exercise, eat all sorts
of horrid stuffs and are in the house all
day, bathing is the only hygienic resort left,
but if a woman lives out of doors as much
as she can manage, and subsists chiefly on
brown bread, fruit, milk and oatmeal, her
skin will at least begin to surprise her
for its smoothness and freshness.
Since one cannot hope in a month or two
to attain the texture of the peasant satin
complexion, here are a few of the aids to
use. If the skin be exposed to the dust,
smoke or grime of the city, then it must
have careful attention to keep it clean.
Wash at night with hot soapsuds, rinse
with hot water and again with cold, using
the cold water till the skin is chilled.
Dry carefully, not rubbing too hard, and
dust the face with a little cotton bag
stuffed with oatmeal. The powder that
comes out insures absolute dryness, and
there is an oil in it that is beneficial with
out being greasy. This should do for the
ordinary skin, "but if the complexion is
dreadfully dry use cold cream, vaseline or
olive oil for a few nights, rubbing a little
in thoroughly. In the morning just dash
cold water on the face as a freshener
and dust with the oatmeal bag
after drying. Don't use water on the
face during the day. A soft cloth
wrung out of milk, or made slightly
oily may be rubbed over the face if it
seems to be soiled, and you may splash a
little water after drying and using the
meal. But in the country where the
meadows permit no grime the face ought
not to get dirty. Freckles and sunburn?
Nonsense! let them alone. Of course, you
must not by sudden and violent exposure
to the sun bake and blister yourself, but
the tan that comes slowly can only be a
becoming addition to the smoothness and
color that goes with a healthy skin. Cos
metics are not needed. Be sure your soap
is harmless, avoid all fancy kinds, and use
olive oil or a home-made co!d cream and a
bag of oatmeal. Nothing else is necessary,
except outdoor life and plain food, with
exercise and good temper to aid digestion.
Telling Age by the Colffnre.
The common objection among woman
kind to letting their age be known is not
shared by the ladies of Japan, who actually
display their cycle of years In the arrange
ment of their hair. Girls from 9 to 13
wear their hair interlaced with red crape
in a semicircle around the head, the fore
head being free, with a curl at each side.
From the ages of 15 to 30 the hair is dressed
very high on the forehead and gathered up
at the back in the shape of a butterfly or
fan, with twistings of silver cord and per
haps a decoration of colored balls. Beyond
the milestone of 30 a woman twists her
hair around a shell pin placed horizontally
at the back of the head. Quite differently
again a widow arranges her coiffure, and
the initiated are able to tell at a glance
whether she desires to marry again or not.
E. S.
Nurse — Come, Neddie, why don't you go
into the water?
Neddie — I don't think mamma wants mo
to get my new bathing suit wet.— Harper's
Young People.
Yale's r
Skin
i. j B\JB 1
Food
! ■''■'.'.— . '.:..■»■*"■..'
Removes wrinkles and all traces
of age; It feeds through the pores
and builds up the fatty mem-
branes and wasted tissues, nour-
ishes the shriveled and shrunken
skin, tones and invigorates the
. nerves and muscles, enriches the
impoverished blood vessels, and
supplies youth and elasticity to
the action of the skin. It's perfect.
Yale's Skin Food, $1.50 and S 3. at all drug-
stores. MM K. M. V ALE, Health and Beauty
Specialist, 146 State street, Chicago. Beauty
Guide mailed free.
TBTHEV-ERY BEST ONE TO EXAMINE
1 eyes and fit them to Spectacles or Eyeclassei : '
with Instruments of ,- his ; ewn invention, who** •
ruperlorlty has cot been equaled. My succou lvi
been doe to the merits Of my wotls. . -
Offlc* H.oui»-i^ to 4 r. m. :
15