The San Francisco call. [volume], August 18, 1895, Page 15, Image 15

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

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BRINGHT IDEAS
FOR
UP TO DATE WOMEN AND MEN.
To the uninitiated it may not seem a
difficult undertaking to write about
fashions between seasons, but at present it
is not easy to make the simple little sum
mer gowns interesting. Fortunately, how
ever, I have had more than a peep at a few
truly charming toilets, which will be
seen during the latter part of this month
at Del Monte, and some good dresses were
. donned for the hop there last week. The
. tall, fair millionairess whose home is in
the Western Addition looked unusually
handsome, but then she is always radiant
in the evening, having trunks fall of lovely
toilets, for unadorned beauty does not
•appeal to me nor to any one else I fancy
excepting in the case of very young chil
dren—all being improved by a compre
hension of what is most suitable and most
becoming.
; One Del Monte dinner gown I greatly
fancy has a skirt of striped black ana
v.hite silK cut on the bias, godeted. with
stiffening only around the bottom extend
•... ing up about eicht inches. The iining is
Of white place and the low square-cut
:. boa ice. is or" white silk, veiled with closely
'•■ .pleated: black chiffon, the neck being fin
: :is4ied: : with rare old lace- with a beading of
•'•.■ jet ctit"td : "represent pansies. The
' •••waist is encircled with: a girdle-like effect
•■oiiet.^t the left side of the corsage is
: gracefully arranged a large bunch of Cali
"forniu violets, and they also appear to hold
. yin ■pikte the chiffon which covers the large
res of white silk. This gown
Sv?.*,iu siri.t-J and made by one of our best
modistes.,. Another, of pale ereen satin, has
.''afuii and: sin u'ie : skirt, with a bow of pale
. VellQ\v ■satin in front of the hem.
.The bodice is of the satin beautifullyem
. liroiaereti ':■ with sequins, which change
/.from palest green to a light yellow, a puff
'pi yellow chiffon edges the neck and the
sleeves are of the same fabric but of the
•newest sty lev called '■' tne double puff;" the
larger at the top. I presume that later we
will see. many such sleeves. Very beauti
. ful . ibuttercups were artistically trained
from .'-'the': frtint of the waist to the left
shoulder, where they terminated in a small
.bunch. t)n the right shoulder were up
standing loops of pale-green satin. Halt a
'.': cozen of the flowers with their leaves are
to be worn among the owner's lustrous
..coils of hair.
How curiously we are awaiting fashion's
.edicts for the fall. They will reach us next
rucnth. and I cannot readily believe that we
will have to say farewell to our dear, huge,
frilly, puffy sleeves. Still, if the rage for
.Marie Antoinette fashions continues we
certainly can make a waist and sleeves out
of a pair of our present ones. I hope for
the best, which I consider means a slight
modification of present styles; and oh, I
do hope the long shoulder seam will not
be imperative, as only tall, slender women
look well with their bodices so cut.
A few days ago I heard some young girls
commenting on white alpaca and mohair
skirts and deploring the fact that they
soiled so rapidly around the bottom. Now
let me enlighten you girls. Your skirts
.should' be very wide, silk lined, much
, £.od"eted.and, only have a sliirhtlj' stiff in ter
. lining. \Xow your skirts may meet all
these requirements and yet they will be
destitute of style and so will all skirts of
white ••wool unless they just escape the
ground all . around and are of perfectly
.: even length.
One very lovely young maiden who lives
way out oh Jackson street is taking a
truhkful of the sweetest confections in
muisJin and- lace ever, put together, and
even those much opposed to such sim
plicity, would, if allowed to inspect these
gowns, become converts to their unusual
charms.
A word of advice to yon girls. When
you see at the summer sales short lengths
of organdies, secure them if in becoming
shades. They will make just the sort of
gowns you want for the evening at home
ana a flowered skirt is very lovely with a
waist matching the ground of the skirt.
Secure sufficient for skirt and sleeves when
possible.
The white silk crepons I mentioned in
my last paper are preferred when loosely
woven by strong silk threads rather than
whtn crinkled in the usual crepon fashion,
and one advantage about them is that
they oan be made over cotton taffeta with
almost as nice effect as over silk. Young
.girls are especially fond of these gowns
and wear them cut out, rounded slightly
low; at the top ih.what rs called the Dutch
neck-,/ and . finished there with gathered
tucks. This waist is completed with white
ribbon drawn squarely across the bust and
back and passes over the shoulders with
high knots .of loops standing there.
Recently when many young people were
at Santa Cruz a slender brunette of about
16 was i conspicuous i for her dainty simple
gowns, two of which i will describe. One
was of the cotton stuff,, known as "Vichy
cioth," in a pale shade of lavender barred
with black linen. The skirt was full and
plain with a deep hem, the bodice slightly
bloused in front- and held in place by a
black ribbon belt arid silver buckle. The
stock was -of white lawn and lawn was
also inserted as two sharp V's back and
front, giving just the requisite "touch."
Worn with this was a large white rice
straw hat with bows of lavender ribbon
and two small choux of black satin.
> The second gown of. a creamy white can
vas was absolutely plain, but eviaently the
work of one of our best tailors, so
exquisitely delicate did the little
vest and jaunty jacket fit. The jacket
had a roll collar which is remark
ably difficult to cut. properly. Three
lines of stitching ran around the well-hung
skirt. A correct sailor hat and chamoise
gloves completed this toilet, noticeable
principally for its excellent cut.
From Newport comes the news that Miss
Fair is now playing golf wiih much enthu
siasm, and is considered one of the best
players there. ' She usually wears a white
duck costume, with leggiris of the same
material, and a large straw hat with a nar
row band of white satin ribbon. A white
satin belt and large gold buckle completes
her costume, and in it .Miss Birdie is said
to look exceedingly Well. Miss Sands
is usually seen, when golfing, in a suit of
yellow duck, with heavy golf stockings
and a black belt and silver buckle and a
larse sailor hat. Others are to be seen
only in tweed or cloth of gold suits, much
diversity in taste prevailing.
Some one in speaking of "Hen" dinners
at Newport says they are a novelty. Not
at all. More than two years ago when in
Washington I was present at a most de
lightful one. But what especially amused
me was the way in which several of the
young women would now and then remark
that they thought it such an improvement
not having any men present, when all the
time it was so evident what they really
did think. We have our lunch parties,
and then all subjects dear to the feminine
heart can be discussed, so I do not believe
that "Hen" dinners will ever be much the
rage. .
I Rhinestone buttons and those of beauti
fully painted Dresden china have been so j
much worn that it is safe to predict that
buttons will figure conspicuously next
season.
One of our belles wears, with excellent
effect, at her throat a large curved silver
buckle. Such, whether of steel, gold or
silver, are very swell for long-throated
women; but tiiose with short necks look
absolutely absurd with any such arrange
ment.
Why do people with the sallowest of
complexions insist on tying or draping
around their throats ribbons which em
phasize every yellow tinge? If you do not
know what colors suit you it would pay to
give a first-class dressmaker $25 for "her
opinion as to what colors you should in
dulge in, color being an all-important
factor.
It is consoling for most of ns the in
formation that the simplest of ornaments
are the most becoming when a low-cut
waist is worn.
A novelty in dress goods is a lovely green
crepon, which has a large design in black
silk woven in. A gown composed of it is
the property of a fashionable woman.
The full godeted skirt, the sleeves and
basqued bodice are of the crepon, and the
vest is of green silk, with shaded trim
ming.
Yachts and yachting are still favorite
topics, and a fetching blue serge gown
worn by a sunny slender blond is charm
ing. The usual skirt is of the serge and
the round bloused bodice is beautified with
a white vest of cloth, a small hijih collar
and large flaring sailor one of the cloth.
Pretty pointed cuffs finish the sleeves and
a white yachting cap and chamois gloves
complete the costume.
A useful dress is of fine black and white
cloth, made up on the bias. It has a neat
little collar of black satin and what is
called a girdle of the same, but in reality
it is something unusual, being exactly like
a corset in cut, excepting that it is short.
However, it gives the unpretentious gown
a certain air of chic. This idea carried
out in a blue and white check would be
good.
Braid is beginning to appear on the bot
tom of traveling frocks, and three little
frills of lace, silK or ribbon adorn many
evening ones, but the deep lace flounce,
caught up here and there with knots of
ribbon or half a dozen flowers, is still
popular.
A white satin yoke embroidered in jet
gives a dressy appearance to the simplest
waists of gauze or chiffon. The yoke is cut
in deep points, extending far out over the
shoulder. The stock is of the satin.
Panels of accordion pleated silk,
spangled or flowered gauze are very much
in vogue for evening dresses, and a narrow
skirt can thus be utilized effectively. The
green satin skirt lately worn on the Bald
win stage was a charming example of this
new mode.
Parisian women have been indulging in
rowing very generally of late, as their
leading physicians have commended it,
saying it would beautify their figures, so
there is a ladies' boat club at a convenient
spot on the Seine where many novel cos
tumes are indulged in. Of two I shall quote
the descriptions. They were worn by a
girl of 18 and a woman of 25: "The first
was full zouave knickerbockers of fine
crimson serge, accordion pleated and fath
ered in below the knees, with a shirt of
the same shade of silk, a Bolero jacket of
white serge trimmed with narrow crimson
silk braid, a Tarn o' Shanter hat of white
wool with a crimson knob and pompons
of the same, white silk hose and brown
leather shoes. The second consisted of a
short full box pleated skirt of white drill, a
jacket of the same with dark green mos
quetaire cuffs opening over a vest of fine
green serge; the drawers, showing slightly
below the dress, were of green serge made
of medium fullness; moss green stockings,
a white sailor hat with dark green band
and brown morocco shoes."
At all our seaside resorts this season
women have shown a keen interest in
boats and boating, not a few having
learned to handle their sculls in a
masterly manner, and a limited number
can sail a boat scientifically and run a
launch. Some of the best rowers are to be
found in Belvedere, two young sisters
being especially experts.
Little girls living in warm places during
the summer are made comfortable in yoke
slips of gray or brown holland linen, made
a la Mother Hubbard, with a shallow
square yoke, to which all the material is
gathered and hangs loose from the figure.
A little turned-down collar of the linen
can be either hemmed or stitched, but em
broidery is frequently used instead as a
ruffle around the neck. The sleeves are
mutton-leg shape, and have either cuff or
ruffles around the wrist. Dainty frocks in
this same style are made of China blue or
mignonette green linen. Narrow inser
tion usually trims them.
Girls from 8 to 12 wear dresses of the
same fabrics, but the waists are usually
box pleated, with a small turned-down col
lar, but a broad collarette of the linen,
deeply hemmed, with a narrow white bead
ing above the linen, is a pretty change.
Others sgain have a jacket and shirt, with
which are worn colored shirtwaists.
Even very small girls are arrayed in
large flowered organdies. The trimming
is a cream-white lawn collarette of great
size, pointed out on the sleeves, and lower
still down the front and back and edged
with two narrow frills of butter lace. When
completed such frocks are fit for veritable
fairies.
An eftort ie being made to introduce
dresses with short sieeves and low necks,
for children's wear in the evening.
Pink is the favorite color for the little
people's best gowns, whether of dimity,
lawn, pique or organdie, and with them
are worn hats of Neapolitan or fancy
braids, and the old familiar Leghorn hats
are seen trimmed with large, many-looped
bows ot satin or taffeta ribbon and pink
roses, arbutus, or any pretty pink blossom.
Lace is more used for the children's
frocks than ever before. Many embroid
eries are seen also.
India silks in pale shades are in favor
for the children, and a new fabric is grena
dine in large Persian designs in very rich j
colorings on a white ground.
Even the babies are having their hair
parted in the middle, and as soon as a
child is old enough it is arranged in thick
THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 18, 1895.
curls, not just curled at the ends, but all
their length, as in the ringlets of years ago.
Black, white and tan shoes are worn,
and the stockings, to be in the best taste,
are absolutely plain and match the shoes
in color.
The best way to keep straight hair in
curl is to wet the hair first thoroughly
with alcohol or cologne and curl while
wet, leaving the curls uncombed until the
hair dries thoroughly. A touch of powder
on curls and forehead will remove any
slight moisture, and we are assured that
even the straicbtest hair when so treated
will stay curled for hours. The touch of
powder must be so slight as not to show.
As I have announced, the pompadour
style of dressing the hair is the latest in
Paris, but the wise matron or maiden
modifies all styles to suit her own particu
lar type, and so is always fascinatingly
stylish, and this should be our chief aim.
Nevertheless, two prominent women here
who are noticeable for their ugly, unsuit
able gowns frequently inform their
modistes that they do not care in the
least whether a fabric or style is becoming
or not, as they intend to have it anyway
if it is said to be fashionable, and yet one
would imagine that these women would
have better judgment.
Not long ago I heard of an excellent
way of making a model on which the
home dressmaker can design her own
waists. She must take one of her best
fitting old bodices and, after buttoning or
hooking it up the front, sew it together
securely, then cut off any buttons and
round the bottom sew a stout piece of
canvas. Then let her sew the sleeves at
the wrists and stuff the whole with saw
dust or bran. After putting in as much as
possible she must shake dummy several
times daily for about a week, constantly
adding more stuffing, as it will settle by
degrees. When it is not possible to put in
any more, s^w a piece of pasteboard
around for the neck, and then stitch across
that another piece of stout material, and
if you are clever and understand cutting
and fitting a little you can make your own
gowns with excellent effect provided your
figure is moderately good.
I read that others besides my little
Frenchwoman use well-fitting corset cov
ers as foundations on which to drape deli-
cate fabrics for evening wear, as recently a
young woman using a corset-cover as a
foundation made one of the fancy waists
now so much in vogue, of ivory-white
satin, covered entirely with cream-white
or black lace of light texture. These cor
sages are trimmed with various colored
ribbons and have sleeves with a balloon
puff, shirred in at the elbow and finished
with a frill of black lace and knots of
bright ribbon, which are arranged in bands
over the shoulders, where the sleeves are
put in, and end in knots or rosettes at the
bust line. The belt and collar match in
velvet the ribbons. Such waists are most
effective when worn with a black satin or
moire skirt, and it looks well to define the
seams of a moire skirt with narrow jet pas
sementerie.
Many expert needlewomen have been
amusing themselves lately embroidering
their sash ends with artistic designs in
colored beads and spangles. Large bows
are beautified in the same way. The work
is said to be easy and quite fascinating.
A simple but charming morning costume
worn at one of our fashionable summer re
sorts is thus described : "it consists of an
entire skirt of white English needlework
in a small wheel pattern, made over an
underskirt of soldier-blue silk. A narrow
accordion-pleated frill of the silk peeps be
low and preserves the edge of the white
skirt. The corsage is a Louis Quinze
jacket ot soldier-blue broadcloth, with full
skirt. Thia jacket opens over a vest of
soldier-blue silk, closely embroidered in
scarlet and gold.
The prettiest thing about the jacket is
the shoulder cape of white needlework
over a soldier-blue silk, with Medici collar
of the same. The needlework is every
where turned in or under and is finished
by no edge whatever. The coat is lined with
scarlet silk, which rarely shows, however,
and there are two pockets, one on each
side, and large buttons of blue cloth, em
broidered in red and gold."
Concerning the costumes worn by the
ladies of Vienna when spending the sum
mer in their mountains, among which they
climb to the loftiest summits and whence
they descend the most dangerous ice
slopes with the swiftness of practiced
mountaineers, following the chamois on
narrow ledges of rock which give ordinary
mortals the shivers to even contemplate,
Vogue's correspondent writes: "No
bloomers for them ! No costumes or atti
tudes which make one hesitate as to the
sex of the being before one's astonished
eyes. A pair of perfectly fitting knicker
bockers worn under a short tweed skirt, a
waistcoat of chamois-leather, half con
cealed by a 'Joppe' or gray cloth, many
pocketed, green-passpoiled jacket and a
Tyrolese hat adorned with a chamois
beard ; tall gaiters of untanned leather and
stout boots, and they are ready for the
mountain. Equally compact are their
riding-habits for summer or winter wear,
without any frills, ribbons or lace collars,
and gauntlets such as I have seen occa
sionally fluttering about amateur sports
women who knew no better, poor things,
but still who ought to have inquired from
competent people in order to avoid these
mistakes wnich stamped them at once for
ignoramuses of the deepest dye."
With the Louis XVI modes, now so
generally seen, the huge ties, cravats and
chokers of the same period have made
their appearance, and are by no means
ugly, and this winter will prove a grace
ful substitute for the now alf-too common
place boa. They consist of plentifully
trimmed folds of muslin or gauze, but for
really hot weather the deliciously cool
Marie Antoinette fichu holds its own.
From the fact that the Lamballe hats
have found great favor and are adorned
not only with tulle ribbon and flowers,
but also with a white lisse scarf coming
from the turned up back and twisted ar
tistically around the neck and fastened in
a great bow at the left side, it is predicted
that street veils in scarf drapery will soon
be seen.
Louis XVI jackets will be much worn
this winter, and they are to be made with
great elegance. One thing in their favor is
that several jackets can be worn with one
skirt. White satin Eton jackets are now
seen, brocaded with gay flowers and beauti
fully lined. With these come broad Em
pire girdles, double faced, clasping the
waist and bunched out with many small
loops.
A bonny English girl about to visit our
country brings in one of her trunks next
month a novelty worth noting. It is one
of the new plaid and striped silks, which
are to be had in such mixtures as red,
blue and green, with velvet that exactly
matches them, for coats.
A social leader here has ordered from
the East for this winter an elegant calling
gown. The skirt is to be of the richest
black duchess satin, and the little coat is
of black velvet, over which are apparently
strewn beautiful pink roses.
A nouveaute for the table, both graceful
and fragrant, is the idea of rolling up each
dinner napkin in the fashion of days gone
by and encircling them with a ring of
blossoms mounted on a broad satin ribbon
of gay color, which ties in an artistic wind
mill bow.
The art of writing graceful notes is fast
becoming a lost art and the telephone is
the reason of this, at least our literary
writers say so.
About our theaters; how impatient we
all are to see Drew, and how critical we
will be over the gowns. The Lyceum
Company has quite spoiled us, so beautiful
were the garments worn. This week the
trusting little wife at the Baldwin has been
sweetly pretty in lace and muslin, and at
the Columbia 1 liked the Countess' gown
of black velvet and jetted net, and the
little maid was fetching in her red frock
and white black-trimmed apron.
Makcella.
FOR MEN.
A clever writer recently said that "clothes
are human," and I understand the force of
the remark, for, as some one else writes,
"To wear good clothes, to be correct in
one's appearance, in one's bearings and in
one's deportment are laudable ambitions
and not the whims of a silly fool who has
nothing else to think about. It is only the
great unwashed, the untidy in body and
soul who scorn to respect themselves
enough to put on decent raiment."
As every one has a greater or less inter
est nowadays in Napoleon some facts
taken from a correspondent to Harper's
Bazar concerntng him show that he held
very similar views about apparel as the
two authorities quoted above, and by
glancing at the inventory attached to the
catalogue of his personal effects for the
campaign of 180G we find that he carried
with him eighteen culottes and eighteen
vests of white cashmere, three culottes of
white velvet, five pairs of trousers for
traveling, two purple, two dark blue, one
sky blue, two coats belonging to the cos
tume of a chasseur, two habits de grena
dier, two gray redingotea and six robes de
chambre.
His gray redingote was never put on
from indifference to dress, but for comfort.
The man who considers the subject of
his apparel beneath his consideration and
leaves all to his tailor usually looks like
a perfect guy, no matter what outlay he
makes.
A swell Fifth-avenue tailor cuts and fits
the golf suits worn at present in brown
holland and brown linen. This style is
perfection.
In England blue serge is tremendously
popular and the white is used for tennis
and even yachting suits.
Steel-gray with a narrow stripe is the
prevailing color in trousers.
There is a rumor that another attempt
will be made this winter to revive colored
cloths for frock coats, which "are to be
made with three buttons, silk facing to
match and edges singly stitched." In Eng
land these are being at present worn at gar
den and afternoon parties. The cloths used
are green mixture and browns, russet and
chocolrfte. With our present trousers the
effect must be simply hideous.
Black morning coats made in New York
have not such sharp tails as the English
ones and they are usually too much
rounded in front. For a while Albert Ed
ward, during this last winter, made a point
of wearing his trousers without the usual
crease and the fad was widely taken up,
but the crease has returned and is more
decided than ever before.
Fancy linen waistcoats are much worn
and the white ones are in high favor, but
should never have black buttons, they
making the garment "bad form." White
duck trousers should have worn with them
a blue or black serge coat.
Shooting-breeches are full, not baggy,
fitting quite snugly at the knee, with but
tons well to the front. A broad band of
devon is sewn to the bottom, and this is
also made to fit round the leg below the
knee quite as closely, and over this the
upper part falls in fullness; thus the free
dom of the legs is not interfered with. The
shootiner-coats have, if possible, more
pockets than ever. Men who cannot leave
the city during the remainder of the sea
son should wear a lounge suit, brown, blue
or gray in pattern, until dinner-time. A
colored shirt, tan shoes and a straw hat
go with such a suit.
Yachtsmen wear either tan or white can
vas boots.
The most correct overcoat for wear at
present is the covert, fawn, tan or gray, cut
reasonably long.
When the Baldwin curtain rises on Mon
day evening we will have the pleasure of
seeing John Drew, whom critics declare to
be the best-dressed actor on the American
stage. C. C.
SCIENCE
AND INDUSTRY
Afeifc *r?1''^>> ':>i- ***** '
&fi**YH.« T "_ L »™ of ="-
Vi« *• jl MAN Endurance, op
X' j J " High Air Pressures.—
The dangers attendant on working under
high pressure of compressed air have long
been recognized )bv engineers and physi
cians. The pressure itself is most trying
to the workman, who may suffer even
more seriously from the chanpe from high
to normal pressure on leaving the air-lock
through which he passes in transition.
Only young men ;ot sound constitution
should be, employed; the hours ;of labor
under pressure should be short; the pres
sure should be reduced very gradually in
the air-lock; the men should ;rest after
coming out, and a hospital air-lock should
be provided, in which men may be placed
ana treated with heated compressed air if
chilled, afflicted by the "bends" or "cais
son disease," or otherwise injured by a too
sudden reduction of pressure. These. are
the latest and most approved maxims of
engineering authorities. A series of inter
esting * experiments as to human endur
ance of; higher pressures than are usually
employed in compressed-air work has re
cently been made in the new harbor works
at Bordeaux,? France, i where 1 the ? quay
foundations are being constructed by the
compressed-air system." It is well known
that sponge-divers descend from 150 to 200
feet I without - injury, and the i! engineer in
charge -of the harbor works therefore ar
gued that ;. workmen should be able to en
dure \ corresponding : pressure : under the
more favorable conditions of an air cham
per. .. He formed a commission •; of doctors
to:-, work with P him >in ascertaining >if
men could . safely sustain a pressure of
seventy pounds per square inch. The test
chamber was fitted with windows, a tele
phone, eiectric light and a steam coil, by
whicti any desired temperature could be
maintained. Three men volunteered for
the tests, one being a regular compressed
air workman, the second an occasional
workman and the third a man who had
entered the working-chamber only a few
times. These men were subjected to pres
sures for a specified length of time, usually
about one hour. The tests were com
menced with a pressure of about 28.4
pounds per square inch, and increased
gradually by about 4.27 pounds per day to
76.8 pounds per square inch, while the
time for the pressure reduction was in
creased about ten minutes for each 1.42
pounds increase in pressure. Forty-six
pounds pressure was maintained without
difficulty; but at 58.3 pounds one of the
men was sligntly inconvenienced, and at
65.4 pounds nis companion, who was not
accustomed to compressed-air work, had
to be withdrawn, as he suffered from pains
in the side. The man who alone under
went the pressure of 76.8 pounds suffered
no inconvenience excepting a tingling sen
sation, which soon passed away. It is now
considered that if proper precautions are
taken men in good health can stand a
pressure of 76.8 pounds per square inch ;
but means should be provided for heating
the chamber at will, and there should be
constant and perfect ventilation. Elevators
■hould be provided to bring the workmen
to the surface, as it is found imperative
that they should rest after leaving the air
lock. These experiments show that men
can work under compressed air at greater
depths than have yet been attempted or
considered safe.
State Cabe of School Children's
Teeth. — The degeneration of the teeth of
the children of to-day has become alarm
ing, and Canada is about to introduce
regular dental inspection of the teeth of
the children in her public* schools with a
view of remedying the results of neglect
on the part of parents. A movement is on
foot to make similar inspection compulsory
in the public schools of this country. Dr.
Richard C. Newton has appealed to the
dental profession for suggestions as to how
the poor can be induced to preserve their
teeth. He has found that the teeth of the
very poor are almost universally bad, and
in most cases practically the only atten
tion the teeth ever get is when they are
pulled out. Bad and insufficient diet
lowers the vital forces, dental caries sets
in, and with it a tendency to eschew proper
foods and seek for softer and more highly
seasoned nutriment. This makes the mat
ter worse, for working people should eat
food that requires considerable mastica
tion — so-called strong food, like the black
bread and beans upon which German peas
ants thrive so well. Dr. Newton has found
that poor people will not go to a dentist,
even wlien urged to do so by their medical
adviser, because of the expense. He be
lieves that in a few years such facilities
will be provided that the poor will be able
to have their teeth looked to gratuitously,
and he proposes that the New Jersey State
Dental Society, of which he is a member,
should inaugurate the movement by set
ting about the establishment of free dental
clinics for the poor.
The Result of Short Working Hours. —
An English manufacturer has communi
cated to a daily paper an interesting re
port of the result of five years' experience
of the eight-hour rule in his works. He
says that at first the wage-cost per ton
went up, then dropped, and is now as low
as it was in 1889, when the twelve-hour
law was in force. In other words the men
get as much work done in eight hours as
they used to get done in twelve. This is
not attributed to a coincidental improve
ment in machinery or the methods of
manufacture. The "managers of the work
who have considered the point are con
vinced that although the men work less
hours the aggregate efficiency of their
work is not diminished. This view is sup
ported by the showing of the factory
books, which record greater regularity of
attendance, increased application and im
proved health of the workmen. Many of
them used to be irregular and drunkeu,
but such cases are now rare. In the long
double shift at the end of each week the
men often used to be found asleep. Under
the new conditions this did not happen.
The men look fresher and healthier, and
the change in them is markedly shown in
the comparatively nimble and lively gait
with which they leave the works at the
end of the shift.
The Voice. — Many vocal authorities
maintain that the voice is greatly affected
by diet, and Dr. Pegg, who was once an as
sociate of Liszt, expresses a strong con
firmation of this view. Where fish ia the
chief article of food, fine vocalists are
scarce, and the voice in ordinary speech
lacks delicacy of timbre and dignity. Dr.
Pegg maintains that the most desirable food
for singers is of a graminivorous kind,
with occasional indulgence in a moderate
quantity of meat. He discountenances the
idea that malt liquors give strength to the
voice, although they may stimulate it for
a short time. Singers who would keep
their tones fresh, rich and long should be
chary of alcohol in any form. "Smoking is
not looked upon as injurious to the voice,
though if the habit is not kent well in sub
jection it may affect the strength of the
vocal organs.
MME. M- YALE'S
Beauty Secrets.
Mme. Yale's Hair Tonic
Stops hair falling in from 24 hours to one
week. It is the only discovery known to
the medical fraternity to bring back the
natural color to gray or faded hair — it makes
the hair grow more rapidly than anything
else possibly can. Price $1.00 per bottle, 6
for $5.00.
Mme. Yale's Face Powder,
Three tints, 50c.
Mme. Yale's Beauty Soap, 25c.
Mme. M. Yale's Complexion Bleach
Removes all blemishes from the skin, leaving
it clear pink and white; price $2.00 per bottle.
Mme. M. Yale's Skin Food
Removes wrinkles and the traces of age— makes
the face full and plump; price $1.50.
Mme. Yale's Complexion Cream
Softens the skin and makes it fine grained; it
will keep a good skin good and improve a bad
one. A delicious toilet article. Price $1.00 a
jar.
Mme. Yale's La Freckla
Is the only sure cure for Freckles. Price $1.00.
Mme. Yale may be consulted by mail free of charge.
Mme. Yale's Bust Food
For developing the bust and making the neck
plump. $1.50.
Mme. Yale's Guide to Beauty.
A valuable book of instructions on "Culti-
vating Beauty," written by Mme. Yale, con-
tains seven pictures of the famous beauty.
Will be mailed FREE TO ALL who will write
for it.
Mme. Yale's Remedies can be had of Drug-
gists or sent for by mail to Mme. Yale.
TEMPLE OF BEAUTY, CHICAGO.
NEW TO-DAY. •
FRATINGER'S
Cloaks,
Sis,
UUltljt
■ri ■ • ■ •
Firs.
The elegant stock of. the late
Mr. A. M. Fratinger, 105 Kearny
street, will be closed out, regard-
less of cost, commencing
Wednesday, August 14th, at 9
A. M., and continuing daily
until disposed of.
■
(From U.S. Journal of Medicine.)' .
ProtW. H.?ceke,who makes a specialty of Epilepsy^
has without doubt treated and cared more cases than
any living Physician ; his success is astonishing. Wo
have heard of cases of 20 years' standing cured by him.
He publishes a valuable work on this disease which ho
sends with a large bottle of his absolute cure, free to
any sufferer who may send their P.O. and Express ad-
dress. We advise anyone wishing a cure to address,
Prof. W. H. PEEKE, F. D., 4 Cedar St, New York.
OBDONTUNDER DENTAL PARLORS
81591 Geary, bet. Lark in and Hyde.
B L. WALSH, D. D. S.,
v«QSiS Prop' r, directly opp. Sar-
—^ atoga Hall. Price list:
Mls&&rCl^ J^ Extraction (painles9)2sc
jßsSwiaßS>*!~3J^^~^ Bone ing 50c: Amal-
|i^^S_ '■■•^^ "=3 gam filling 50c; gold fill- '
\>C-f_Jf . - r lngsl: Bridgeworlc $5:
TLA /»*"♦"s■" y^T Crowns f5: Plates $5 and
L. v»»-^^ $7; Cleaning $1. , Every
operation guaranteed.
tfS" On entering our parlors be sure you sea OR,
WALSH, personally.
NOTARY PUBLIC.
/"IHARLES H. 1 PHILLIPS, ATTORNEY-AT
\J law and Notary Public, 63b Market St., qppo-
site P alace Hotel, Residence 1620 Pell st. , Tele-
phone 570. •■ . • . -
summer' RESDRT5 1
HIGHLAND SPRINGS,
ON THE BORDER OF CLEAR LAKE,
Xjfilx-o Coxinty, Cal.
DO YOU ENJOY A SUPERB CLIMATE,
dancing, lawn tennis, croquet, billiards? Do
you like fine bathing, boating, hunting and fishing?
Do you need recuperation and rest afforded by over
thirty kinds of mineral springs? Shortest stage
route into Lake County.
All this and more can be had at Highland
Springs.
New hotel. Finest dining-room north of San
Francisco.
From San Francisco it costs only $8 for the
round trip, and the hotel rates are $1 50 to $2 50
per day or $10 to $16 per week. Take the 8. F.
and N. P. Railway via Pieta, thence by a short,
delightful stage ride.
J. CRAIG, Manager.
San Francisco office, 316 Montgomery st. .
FISHERMEN!
rpHE HEADQUARTERS FOR ANGLERS AND
JL their families is at the
BOCA HOTEL,
BOCA, CAL.
The best part of the Truckee River close at hand.
An excellent table and newly fitted rooms. A daily
stage leaves the hotel for
LAKE INDEPENDENCE,
The queen of mountain lakes. Now is the time to
fly-fish this grand lake. Average catch, 200
trout per day.
ior Information and rates address
JAS. McDONALD, Boca, Cal.
DUNCAN'S SPRINGS
Hopland, Mendocino County.
"VTEW HOTEL AND COTTAGES, PICTUR-
i-V esquely situated In the mountains, 2 miles
from Hopland; 3000 feet above sea level, and 250
feet above the valley : effervescent mineral baths,
hot or cold; magnesia, seltzer, soda, iron, borax
and sulphur springs; sure cure for kidney and
liver troubles and liquor or morphine habit;
piano, billiards, tennis, croquet, baseball ; free bus
from Hopland Station, S. F. <fc N. P. R. R. ; $10 to
fl2 per week: take 7 :40 a. m. train.
All severe cases of sickness attended by the resi-
dent physician, Dr. J. Herbert Reeve.
O. HOWELI, Proprietor.
MADRON E
MINERAL SPRINGS,
Santa Clara County.
QTAGE CONNECTS MONDAY. WEDNESDAY
O and Saturday. Send for descriptive pamphlet.
H. T. DYER, Manager.
BALDWIN'S TALLAC HOUSE,
THE SUMMER RESORT OF CALIFORNIA;
20 hours from San Francisco; more than 6000
feet above sea level; accommodations first class
and attractions unsurpassed.
M. LAWRENCE A CO.,
Lessees and Managers, Tallac, Cal.
LAURfcL DELL HOTKL,
ON LAUREL DELL LAKE (FORMERLY
Lower Blue Lake). A new hotel— the most
artistic tn the county. The rush la over. Rooms
can now be had and yon will be treated well. Boat-
Ing, bathing, fishing, etc., are among the many
amusements. Rates, $8 to $12 per week. Address
H. WAMBOLD, Bertha P. U., Lake County.
NEW TO-DAY. ,
SPECIAL SALE
; — of— :
MEN'S AND BOYS' HATS
30 Per Cent Discount
OFF REGULAR PRICE. :
Boys' Yacht Caps, were Use, now 16c *
Boys' Yacht Caps, trimmed, were 50c, now 35c
Boys' Sailor Hats, were 50e, now., 35c
Boys' Leather Caps, were 50c, now ..\.35c
Boys' Leather Caps or Sailor's, were $1, now.. .70c •
Boys' Fine Cloth . Sailor's. { with fancy orna- :
ment, were -$1 50, now 105 ->
Men's Stiff Hats, were $1, n0w..;...;. .'...;...':.. 75c
Men's Soft Hats, were $1, now ."...'..... 75c t
Men's Derby Hats, were $1 50, now 1.8110
Men's Fedora Hats, were $2, n0w;......' $1 40
Men's Soft or 3tiff Hats, were $2 50, now $V 75
ALL hats AND caps sold WITH
THE SAME DISCOUNT. \ • •
AH Goods Marked With Plain Figures. :
Electrical Construction and Repairing
of All Kinds. Estimates Given.
NOTE.— Special attention • given to -.
Grinding Kazors, Shears and Edged
Tools by skilled mechanics. Prices '
moderate. __ §?jJS^^S^M
818-820 Market Street
P»li©la.n Building.
Factory— 3o First Street.
PChlehcster's EnglUh Diamond Brand.
ENNYROYAL PILLS
_*K~«v Original and Only Genuine. A .
SArc, »lw»ji reliable, ladies aak «^
&■ S\ tt.*^ Drurzidt for Chichtster » EnglU\ -D'a-JMIXA
LwA&J&hsmond Brand hi lied and Gold mf talllc\VW
' sailed with bine ribbon. T»ko \y
iW S^ K^Jno other. Refute dangerous v
\-l "=•"" /if Ham and imitations. At Druggists, or send 4<%
I C- 'Jf in stamp* for particulars, testimonial* and „
I m O " Relief for Ladle*," in Utter, by return
<«A ' IT Mall. 10,000 Testimonials. Same Paper.
1 7^— — rCfclehe»tej-ChenUcalCo.,Madl«onSqu»r4j > 5
Sold hr ail Local Druggist*. - I'hlUda., I'a.
GILROY HOT SPRINGS
A Place Where the : Invalid Can Surely
Regain Health— Where the Tourist
May Regale Himself Upon
Magnificent and Picturesque Scenery,
Where the Summer Pilgrim May Find
Kest, Refreshment and Relaxation.
A Mecca for the Animal Seeker After
Repose and Recuperation. *
A Rural < Retreat, Where the Adjacent
Hills are Clothed in Garments
of Matchless Glory.
Where the Ogre Malaria Never Lifts Hla 6
Ghastly Head and Where the Waters
of ll leal ing Pour Freely From
Nature's Own Fountain.
fTIAKE 2:20 P. M. TRAIN FROM FOURTH
-L and Townsend streets", , arriving .at Springs at
6:80 p.m. Fare $7 15 for round trip.
J63T Stage connects with train from Third and
Townsend streets. jLI ' W >Hjn
ROOP & SON, Proprietors. *
'SBlV'd QBonaaa
Board $8 to $10 Per Week. ',
$B— ROUND TRIP TICKET— S3
ANDERSON SPRINGS.
J. ANDERSON, PROPRIETOR,
. ■ ■ ' Lake County. »
MARK WEST SPRINGS, •
■\TKAR SANTA ROSA— THE MOST BEAUTI-
i-i ful spot in Sonoma county: tine fishing and -
hunting: round trip, $3 75; table -first class. Ad-
dress FRESE & JUROENSEN. : .: ' .
HOWARD SPRINGS, LIKE COUNTY, CAL.
HOT AND COLD MINERAL SPRINGS OF"
great healing power. Will cure constipation,
aid digestion and purify the blood. Terms $8 per
week. Water doctor on the premises. 1 Write for
circular and further information. -
IVY LODGE,
117 Soquel Avenue, Santa Cruz, Cal.,
SELECT PRIVATE BOARDING.
Large grounds, fruits and Bowers; central; first*
./■■,.-■■ • class accommodations. •*• ■
LAKESIDE HOUSE, LAKE TABOE.
A PLEASANT FAMILY RESORT, WITH
A home comforts; good boating and fishing,
pleasant walks and drives. For terms address
E. B. SMITH, Bljon, CaL
THP PIYI P V Centrally-Located and
1 * 1C riAL C I , only Fire-proof Brick \
MRS. E. B. PIXLEY, Prop.
Hotaling Building, SANTA CRDZ, CAL
HOTEL DEL MAR. V *
ON THE SEASHORE, TWENTY MINUTES'
ride from Santa Cruz; climate perfect: ' tabla
unexcelled : surf bathing, . sailing, ■ rowing, fishing;
buses meet all trains: children, 93 50 to « 5 pel
week; adults, $9 per week: special rates to socle-
ties and families. Address MANAGER HOTEI,
DEL MAR, Santa- Cruz, *>»,„• or room > 29, Maza
building, U. F. /~O .. .-■
SUMMIT HOTEL— ■ MOST i BEAUTIFUL
■pot in the Santa Cruz Mountains, opens for Its
fourth season nnder i its present management Juna
1 the table is well known as first-class; fruit and '
cream from onr own ranch. Tennis, croquet. MRS,
A. N. NICHOLDS, Prop., P. 0., WrigUta, Cal.
15