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IN TJ4E FASTNESS OF MATURE
OF J\ <NEW LJIcND
Qame Limitless ar\d
JJ STRJI.NGE QUADRUPED
What a San Francisco jflar\ Dis
covered m the Jteart of the
J. E. Becker of 47 Russ street this City
has returned from, a long exploring ex
pedition through Northwestern 'Washing
ton. He was away from settlements al
most two years. He pronounces the coun
try a true terra incognita. He says all
descriptions of the country that he has
seen are faulty and misleading. A recent
account of un expedition which entered
the country in the fall, and returned in
the soring with stories ot hardship and
wonderful discoveries, he characterizes as
wholly inadequate and uncertain.
Mr. Becker was accompanied by J. C.
Burke, Frank Jones, William Pool, Henry
Wechter and B. C. Williams. The party
was seeking for gold, and Becker claims
that they found it in paying quantities.
Just where he does not choose to say to
the public. At any rate they have formed
the Hurricane Hi'l Mining Company.
One of their number remains in the
mountains and the others have scattered.
Williams, the engineer and surveyor of
the expedition, has returned to San Jose,
where his father is president or superin
tendent of the city water works.
"It is something of a wonder," said Mr.
Becker yesterday, "that in this country
of pioneers and adventurous spirits a ter
ritory so large, so beautiful and so bounti
ful shonld have remained to this day
within our borders practically unknown.
But so it is.
"Between Puget Sound on the east and
the Straits of Juan de Fuca on the north,
the Pacific Ocean on the west and a line
drawn westward from Tacoma to the
ocean on the south there is a country as
large as the State of Massachusetts, where
there is magnificent timber, coal and iron
and preat reaches of grazing country, and
iish and game without limit. When 1 tell
people of what I saw up there they do not
believe me. So what is the use?
"We started into the country from Port
Angeies and followed the county road
south to the Government trail. The Gov
ernment trail is a path blazed by Govern
ment engineers many years ago from Port
Angeles on the Straits of Fuca to Grays
Harbor. The trail begins at the Elwah
River, twelve miles south of Port Angeles.
We followed the trail over the first range
of mountains and then struck off, blazing
our own trail southward to Hurricane Hill.
"We parsed through forests of fir, yellow
pine, hemlock, red cedar and Alaska
cedar — a very hard wood. We crossed over
two ranges of mountains, the south slope
of each of which was covered with lux
uriant blue bunch grass of an excellent
nutritious quality. The north slope of the
mountains was more barren and toward
the top was covered with snow. The
Un ocr extended within a quarter of a miie
of the top. In the valleys the grass grew
knpe-deep, while the tops of the moun
tains are wide plateaus covered with a
sort of iir bru&h. And all this vast area
remains yet uninvaded by the cattleman
or sheepherder. It is wonderful to me
that it is so, considering how men stam
peie into far less fertile regions when
taken from the Indians of the plains and
sheepherders are quarreling over each I
other's claims just east of the Cascades.
"The ascent from Elwah River to the j
mountain top is so gradual as to be scarcely
noticeable. After traveling for a long
time with very little labor we looked ba^k
to discover to our surprise that we were
far above the river. The timber there is
wonderfully open and free from under
growth. We could see long distances in j
all directions through the woods. The j
trees are immense. We cut down a cedar \
that measured 300 feet.
"Game of every sort was most plentiful. ;
There were black bears, cougars and a large
gray wolf almost the size of a Newfound
land dog. This seems to be the last resort
of the elk, and from the manner with j
which it is slaughtered it will not remain j
long there. We found an animal whicn I !
had never before seen. I have looked it j
up in the books, but have been unable to
find any exact description of it. There is
an animal called the mermit which an- !
swers something of its description. We j
found it only above the timber line in the j
mountains. It is about the size of a pug- !
dog. It lives in holes, dug stiaight down- j
ward, and is almost never seen except as j
it sit* on the edge of the hole. It whistles j
like a mau and deceived ns contiuuaily.
As we passed along the trail we could hear
this whistle, as of some man hailing us.
Turning, we would, if the conditions were
right, discover the little whistling mer
mit, as we have agreed to call it, sitting j
perfectly motionless above its nest. If we i
moved on he would hail us again with hh
sharp, shrill cry. If we shot at him the
bullet must kill instantly we would lose
him, for if he had one kick of life remain
ine it would drop him into his hole. We
caught quite a number, however, and
found them very fine eating. The animal
! has a long fur, which is very fine. It is
| very fat and yields an excellent oil. There j
were great quantities of game birds, grouse j
and pheasants in particular, and the j
i streams were filled with fish.
"On the north slope of the second range
of mountains we found two glaciers,
which were ten miles across and contain
ing crevasses into which you could drop a
"We found several mineral springs con
taining iron and sulphur water, which
even the horses seemed to like.
"Our first definite stop out from Port
Angeles was at a place called Death Val
ley. It is on the Government trail, and is
a desolate and depressing place. The next
was at Starvation Flat, 4500 feet up the
i mountain. It was markfd and so named
by the Government engineers. From there
! we moved on to Government Pass over
| the mountains, to where we finally located
and remained. We found in our prospect
, ing a veritable mountain of iron. After
: ward we located what we consider a very
1 valuable lead of gold and silver ore, which
we are making arrangements to work."
The Forestry Station at Santa Monica, in j
Southern California, occupies a most in- .
teresting and picturesqus site. The town, \
Santa Monica, is perhaps as well known as ;
any part of the California seacoast. because ;
it is particularly accessible from Los An-;
geles by railroad, and has become the
leading watering-place between Coronado
and Monterey. A long sweep of seashore,
bold, hizh cliffs, and an almost level plain
above them, ris:ng north and northeast to ,
the bluest of mountain ranges, and tray- |
ersed by deep barrancas, or straight-sided ;
canyons — such is the general aspect of the
great Santa Monica Rancho. Fifty years
ago, 100,000 acres here, the estate of an old
; Spanish pioneer, supported vast herds of
horses and cattle. Then came the railroad
and the American town-builders.
The greatest and deepest barranca in
; this entire Santa Monica plain is that
known as the Santa Monica Canyon. It
! is not really a canyon in the strict inter
pretation of the Spanisa word, which re
fers to mountain ravines, but more nearly
'■ conforms to the Spanish idea of a bar
: ranca — a wide cleft across the plains from
i the mountains to the sea. In reality,
! there are two large barrancas there, run
i niug in a direction somewhat parallel for
! fo*tr or five miles, although they are some
! times close together and at other times
i wide apart. The narrow tongue of and
between them extends to within an eighth
of a mile of the ocean. The two streams
j that flow through these deep and well
wooded depressions unite at the foot of
this gradually sloping tongue of land that
overlooks the sea beaches. Here, on the
sides and summit of this narrow, central
plateau, between two deep gorges, the
Santa Monica Forestry Station is situated.
It is almost completely bidder from the
town and the watering-place. It is greatly
sheltered from storms, and yet the view
from its heights is wonderfully extensive.
The twenty acres belonging to the For
estry Station, a lit Ile arboretum tr«ct, with
hardly any waste upon it, extends from
the bottom of the northern Santa Monica
Canyon, tip slopes and across levels to the
very top of the'TOesa, on the same plane as
the town itself, and looks down from
there to the bottom of .the south canyon.
A View From Hurricane Hill in the Heart of the Olympian
Mountai ns in Northwestern Washington— A Terra Incognita.
THE SAX FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 12, 1896.
f JIB .NEW dIMS
JLND OLD JMKiS
ir\ tke Forest
O.N T.HE RUSSIA RIVER
Jhe First EVent » Was . Qivten to
JJonor - Jtarnj Ed Wards — Jhe
Old Sires arvd Their
The origin of the midsummer high jinks
in the majestic redwoods is not veiled in
mystery. Since the first outing of the Bo
iiemian Club, which took place in July,
187S, the magazines and newspapers of
two continents Wave published and illus
trated stories of the Biinimer festival of
Bohemia. Fred M. Somers and Frank M.
Pixley described the outing scenes for the
Argonaut. Harper's Monthly reproduced
Tavernier's celebrated cartoon of the sec
ond Guerneville jinks, sired by James F.
Bowman, one of the founders of the
club. To Harper's Weekly Henry J.
Brady and Marcus P. Wiggin con
tributed articles descriptive of the
doings in the redwoods. The fame of the
jinks has spread abroad until every scrap of
intelligence regarding its origin and action
is eagerly sought for. Gertrude Atherton
in one of her novels depicts the scene as
she saw it as a summer guest at Cazadero.
The Bohemian Club was a very lively
institution after it moved from the
original quarters on Sacramento street, at
the corner of Webb, to the "spacious
apartments" over the California market
on Pine street. New members came in and
as the rooms were all on tho
same floor companionships were readily
formed. The recruits were as eager as the
veterans to promote high-jinks revels, and
so when the suggestion came to give an
all-night picnic or an outdoor jinks as a
send-off to Harry Edwards, who was then
breaking away irom old-time associations
at the California Theater to try his for
tunes in the Atlantic cities the club
thought something novel should be done
to testify its regard for Harry.
Surely no one had done more for
the club from its infancy until that
time than Harry Edwards. Tnomas
Newcomb, one of the early city editors of
The Cat.l. and the first president of the
club, had perhaps done quite as much for
the institution as the eenial actor, but the
latter, while not jealous or unwilling to
acknowledge the worth of others, still
clung to the cherished faith that he was
nearer and dearer to the hearts of Bo-
I hernia by reason of devoted service to her
cause than any other man.
Recurring to the all-night picnic Frank
Pixley wanted it to take place on the La
gunitas, I. Gutte had a plan for a Sausalito
■ outing aboard the yachts. Joseph Tilden,
! Fred Somers and Hugh Burke were in
favor of a far-away, secluded place in the
The subject was discussed all around,
but as Mr. Tilden was chief of subsistence
he determined to establish his camp near
a base of supplies known as Taylor's sum
| mer hotel, on Paper mill Creek.
The outinc was a success, but some
I schoolteachers and other demure campers
who had pitched their tents in that region
i for summer solace hardly knew what to
: think of the night proeramrne. There was
■ a high jinks, it is true, but there was no
i platform or music, other than vocal chorus.
j A cam pfire wa9 lighted and around itgath
j ered the club members. Harry Edwards
j was the central figure. His talk was pa
j thetic and full of the poetry inspired by
! the sublimity of the forest. luore than
! that, he was impressed by the dissolution
I of the old California Theater Company
| and his separation from John McCullough,
i Barton Hill, Stephen Leach. Thomas
| Keene, William Mestayer, Walter Leman
I and others of the famous organization.
He was going East to recast his lot in
life among strangers. Harry Edwards,
with all of his excellent qualities, could
cush, and when once started in this direc
| tion no one could outgush him. Tlsecamp
i fire scene took a sympathetic bent, but joy
reigned in the precincts of the bar not
far distant. Charles Warren Stoddard,
the poet, was there, and he was quite as
sad as Harry Edwards, and quite as poet
j ical in his sadness. Dr. Swan prescribed
i a special punch for the jinke, as the mcl
', nncholy seemed to be deepening, and
; Joseph D. Strong was delegated to mix the
i ingredients of the beverage. The memory
jof that punch was not obliterated. It still
lives in Strong's cartoon of the first mid
summer high jinks.
The first outing on Paper-mili Creek
was successful. The second high jitiks, a
year later, amonn the great redwood forest
trees was not only a success, but it was a
revelation. Preparations were made in
due time for trantportation by special
train and (or subsistence and shelter.
Hugh M. Burke was appointed sire, and
Joseph Tilden superintended the commis
sary department. John W. Taylor, the
I Superintendent of Schools, Theodore P.
\ Payne, Walter G. Holmes and Dr. Benja
! mm Swan constituted a committee, along
with the sire and Mr. Tilden, to select a
An amphitheater or space, covered with
towering trees of the largest size and
high walled by a densely wooded canyon,
was found on the south side of the Rus
sian River, a mile or more from Duncan's
> Mills. A short distance from the camp a
i stream of water tumbling down ledges of
the rock made a beautiful cascade in the
i forest, and when Jules Tavernier had the
• cascade illuminated with lanterns the ef
fect was encnanting.
Several days in advance Joseph Tilden
procured the necessary supplies, and, tak-
I ing with him a corn of helpers, promised
| a good dinner, served by the club, on the
arrival of the train with the jinks crowd.
Every club has its kickers, and the kickers
, said the journey to the Russian River,
| twice the distance of the previous year's
journey, was too great; that no food could
be obtained, and that the whole thing
would prove a dismal failure. The train,
with a hundred members or more, arrived
The march through the woods a half
mile to camp disclosed forest scenes new
and wonderful to many of the party.
When the selected amphitheater was
reached the members of the advance com
mittee were bailed as heroes. The magni
tude of the giant trees of the forest,
their stately symmetry and solemn maj
esty caused a feeling of reverence to min
gle with the sentiment of admiration.
Joe Tilden was the hero of the night.
The dinner that ho berved was delicious.
The onion *oup of the breakfast became
historic. The night scene was of surpass
ing beauty. The artists Jules Tavernier,
Toby Rosenthal and Julian Rix were in
ecstacy. The cartoon to commemorate
the event, to picture the trees, th« cascade
and the general scene was to be a joy for
ever. Sketches were made of the cascade
and the striking incidents of the jinks;
but so many artists were doing the work
that the cartoon was never finished, and
on the walls of the Bohemian Club no rec
ord can be found of this early but famous
midsummer high jinks.
John W. Taylor has some of the original
sketch*! made by Toby Rosenthal, and
there is in some place the original sketch
of the illuminated cascade by Tavernier
The sire'f subject was "As You Like It,"
and one of the chief contributors was John
The members were reluctant to leave
the famous strove. Many were so enthusi
astic that a meeting was called and quite
a sum of money subscribed to purchase
the property for the club.
It was then and there resolved to hold
all the midsummer jinks in the cascade
forest, but when the committee went to
look at the place a year later all the trees
had been cut away. Only a forest of
stumps and the cascade remained.
A grove equal in beauty, with the ad
vantage of a softer climate, was found for
the third jinks in 1880. The crowning suc
cess of the preceding jinks in the Russian
River had silenced all the kickers.
No resistance has since been offered to
the annual outing, and it is significant
that all the outings since have been held
in the Russian River belt, with the eicf.p
lion of one departure, Fred Somers' Buddha
jinks in Mill Valley. The first jinks at
the Guerneville forest was sired by General
W. H. L. Barnes and the second there by
James F. Bowman.
It was in the Guernevilie forest that
IN THE HEART OF BOHEMIA.
Fred M. Somers introduced the idea of the
cremation of Care, which Tavernier's fa
mous painting so accurately illustrates.
This was the fourth jinks of the midsum
mer series in the woods.
To the regular order from the beginning
the series was sired: Harry Edwards,
1878; Hugh M. Burke, 1879; W. H. L.
I Barnes, 1880; James F. Bowman, 1881;
George T. Bromley, A. G. Hawes. 1882;
j Paul Neumann. 1883; Stuart M. Taylor,
1884; Andrew McF. Davis, 188o; George
Chismore, 1886; Peter Robertson, 1887;
James D. Phelan, 1888; Daniel O'Connel!.
18b9; E. B. Pomroy. 1S90; J. Dennis
Arnold, 1891; F. M. Somers, 1892; Joseph
D. Redding, 1893; Peter Robertson, 1894;
Vanderlynn Stow, 1895.
Among the artists whose cartoons com
memorate jinks in the woods may be men
tioned J. D. Strong, Jules Tavernier,
1 | Barfchaus, John Stanton, A. Jouillin,
• Latimer, Thomas Hill and Julian Rix.
F. Marion Wells, sculptor, constructed
of gunny-bags and plaster the statue oi
1 the patron saint of Bohemia which stood
I three years in Meekar's Grove. He made
also the Buddha figure for the jinks in
1 Mill Valley, where a grove was, in fact,
' | purchased.
' From its inception the midsummer
! high jinks has been a growing institution.
• In its development the artists in music
' have been active and efficient. Stephen
> L<-ach and Ben Clark in the early days
1 gained special recognition. Joseph D.
' Redding and H. J. Stewart coming later
' made music a leading feature. The club
• quartet and chorus of the early outinps
' were succeeded in time by the complete
orchestra and the full band.
Nowadays special trains and boats are
1 engaged for the Bohemians. Instead of
• tents for a night the camp is established
• for a month. In the forest for weeks pre
" ceding the annual event "the nights are
" filled with music" and no cares infest the
In the Bohemia of the early period,
" which now seems a summertime in sunny
long ago, the leading high jinks spirits
. were: Frank Pixley, Clay Greene, Frank
. Unger, Ed Townsend, Raphael Weill,
AT SANTA MONICA— "WOODMAN, SPARE THAT TREE. 7 '
Engene Dewey, Casper Schenck, Charles j
Dungan, James A. Thompson, A. G. j
Hawes, Henry Marshall, Leon Weill, j
John Hewston Jr., Stewart Men- ;
zies, George W. Granniss, Joseph '
R. Grismer, A. D. Bradley, Vir
gil Williams, John Hodge, Jerome
Hart, Kd Ruehling, Ted Locke, Harry Gil
lig, Charles Foster, Charles Stone, James
A. Robinson, Captain McDonald, Dan
O'Connell, Peter Robertson, Theodore
Payne, Walter Holmes, Robert C. Rogers, j
Paul Neumann, Henry Eickoff, George
Hickox, Ned Peters, E. L. G. Bteele, Ben
Clark, J. H. Simpson, Charles Leonard,
A. McF. Davis, Selim Woodworth,
Fred Woodworth, Harry Brady, Harry
Dam, Fred Crocker, George Crocker,
Raoul Martinez, Dr. Powers, A. C. Niles,
Charles G. Yale, Ed H. Hamilton, John L.
Lathrop, Dr. Younger, BarbourT. Lathrop,
J. H. N. Irwin, Alexander Hamilton,
Henry Hey man, C. A. Low, N. J. Brittan, |
Theodore Wore 9, Teddy Holden, George
W. Nagle, George Bayley, Sidney M.
Smith, John H. Boalt, Charles Elliott, Joe !
I Strong, Jules Tavernier, and Paul, the real j
Oi the eighteen sires thirteen survive, i
and ten live in San Francisco. Paul Nea- I
j manu dwells in Hawaii, J. D. Redding in \
| New York and Andrew McFarland Davis i
[in Boston. The live on whom the cares of
I life no longer rest are: Harry Edwards.
i Stuart Taylor, James F. Bowman. E. B.
j Pomroy and Fred M. Somers. Of the
I living pires Hugh M. Burke is !
the senior and Vanderlynn Stow the
junior. Joseph Tilden, Jules Taver
nier and John Hodge, who were
active spirits in the early jinks, have gone j
over the river. General John Hewston Jr. j
is still very much alive and ready to re- j
same his annual duty of building the eof- i
fin for the cremation of Care. Uncle
George Bromley holds the office of high
priest of Bohemia, ana when other duties
call him away he directs the eloquent Gen
eral Barnes to take his place.
The next midsummer high jinks will be
sired by Albert Gerberding. The predic
tion goes that be will prove equal to the
A ; QLjIJ^IPSE
JIT T.HE HEJ\KT
Jhe Immortal HusK of
SGEM OF T.HE REVELS
yV Picturesque Bit of Jteture That
Is Worth Grossing the
To the lover of the wild and picturesque
in nature, a trip down the Russian River
o "Bohemia"— the grove of redwoods just
out from the old mill town of Guerne
ville—is well worth crossing a continent
to see. This noble congregation of coni
fers—Sequoia seinpervireno— is altogether
the most magnificent forest accessible by
railroad from San Francisco, the trip there
and back being made in one day, with
three vast noon hours to wander at will in
"God's first temples." The entire way
from Santa Rosa, a distance of twenty-five
miles, is one of unimazined beauty
broken hillcliains set to orchard and vine
yard or left to nature's unpruned forestry,
and canyon and vale between, green with
hop gardens or scented haycocks bulging
to the sun.
A little beyond the town and tbe track
skirts a dizzy wall which overlooks a
sweeping curve of river. The rails qg.
ahead make steely ribbons through the
tutted grass and blowing wild oats. vVe
have left behind the dwellings of men,
but the house of an eagle is made out
high up on the topmost spire of a splint
ered pine — an "airy cartload of fagots" —
near which, on a bare limb, we discover
one of the nestlings preening its feathers
in the sun. The "chopped-out" district is
now wholly passed, and we experience
the indescribable exhilaration that comes
with the sight of primeval woods. And
such woods, pine and fir, and, kingliest of
all, the redwood, towering in unscathed
majesty. A mountain covered with these
giant conifers is inconceivably sublime,
and no words can depict tae solemn im
pressivenejs of a deep gorge fiiled with the
black, upright shafts. Never do I behold
these matchless trees without an instinc
tive stretching out of my arms in greeting.
The end of the track is the gateway to
Bohemia proper, the central group of red
woods belonging to a reserved tract of
ten acres. It is the chosen grounds for the
! annual jinks of the Bohemian Club, and
from this fact derives its name. A grander
i grove cannot be pictured. The columnar
! trees are maishaled on a level depression
of glen, with a margin of precipitous
mountain sides. Glimpses of these cir
cling walls, seen through the somber
shade, are like the stained windows in
some splendid cathedral — bo rich and
varied is the coloring. One arched hill
space shows the twisted red of madrono
outlined on a ground of varnished laurel.
Another is a rock face painted with
metallic oxides and veined with white
quartz; then a bank superbly noduled
with moss and lichens, a briery patch
snnbnrnisbed, a stucco of wild flowers, and
everywhere an exquisite tracery of poison
oak — Rbus toxicodendron — on a dark sur
face of bark.
The redwoods of Bohemia are not so
large as those of the Montgomery woad in
Mendocino, but they are colossal enough
to inspire reverent awe in the beholder.
The largest measures fifty feet in circum
ference, and, like all its fellows, the short,
bristling limbs do not begin for nearly a
hundred feet up tbe bole. While our feet
pressed soundlessly on the russet leaf mats
we drank in the balsamic air like a cor
dial, and for the time being shared the
vigor and perennialaess of these living
Who shall put into words tbe penetrat
ing hush and immortal tenderness of the
redwoods, where nature seems ever at
prayer or too profoundly happy to break
the stillness save by the faint tinkle of
water dropping over the smoothed round
ness of stones or the soft stir of an occa
sional songless bird? The usual feathered
or furry creature snuns the perpetual twi
light of the redwoods, and if found there
has no voice for greeting. Only enormous
slugs make iridescent trails over the moist
There were ferns of various species in
the grove, but no flowers except a faded
pink oxalis, which invariably grows under
the sequoia. Where a streamlet loses it
self in a reedy dip a tiny lake is formed,
its bosom floating a variety of semi
aquatic vegetation. Ninetta Kamf.s.