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IN TJ4E FASTNESS OF MATURE THE WONDERS OF J\ <NEW LJIcND Qame Limitless ar\d Mature Prodigal JJ STRJI.NGE QUADRUPED What a San Francisco jflar\ Dis covered m the Jteart of the Olympian Mount ains ; J. E. Becker of 47 Russ street this City has returned from, a long exploring ex pedition through Northwestern 'Washing ton. He was away from settlements al most two years. He pronounces the coun try a true terra incognita. He says all descriptions of the country that he has seen are faulty and misleading. A recent account of un expedition which entered the country in the fall, and returned in the soring with stories ot hardship and wonderful discoveries, he characterizes as wholly inadequate and uncertain. Mr. Becker was accompanied by J. C. Burke, Frank Jones, William Pool, Henry Wechter and B. C. Williams. The party was seeking for gold, and Becker claims that they found it in paying quantities. Just where he does not choose to say to the public. At any rate they have formed the Hurricane Hi'l Mining Company. One of their number remains in the mountains and the others have scattered. Williams, the engineer and surveyor of the expedition, has returned to San Jose, where his father is president or superin tendent of the city water works. "It is something of a wonder," said Mr. Becker yesterday, "that in this country of pioneers and adventurous spirits a ter ritory so large, so beautiful and so bounti ful shonld have remained to this day within our borders practically unknown. But so it is. "Between Puget Sound on the east and the Straits of Juan de Fuca on the north, the Pacific Ocean on the west and a line drawn westward from Tacoma to the ocean on the south there is a country as large as the State of Massachusetts, where there is magnificent timber, coal and iron and preat reaches of grazing country, and iish and game without limit. When 1 tell people of what I saw up there they do not believe me. So what is the use? "We started into the country from Port Angeies and followed the county road south to the Government trail. The Gov ernment trail is a path blazed by Govern ment engineers many years ago from Port Angeles on the Straits of Fuca to Grays Harbor. The trail begins at the Elwah River, twelve miles south of Port Angeles. We followed the trail over the first range of mountains and then struck off, blazing our own trail southward to Hurricane Hill. "We parsed through forests of fir, yellow pine, hemlock, red cedar and Alaska cedar — a very hard wood. We crossed over two ranges of mountains, the south slope of each of which was covered with lux uriant blue bunch grass of an excellent nutritious quality. The north slope of the mountains was more barren and toward the top was covered with snow. The Un ocr extended within a quarter of a miie of the top. In the valleys the grass grew knpe-deep, while the tops of the moun tains are wide plateaus covered with a sort of iir bru&h. And all this vast area remains yet uninvaded by the cattleman or sheepherder. It is wonderful to me that it is so, considering how men stam peie into far less fertile regions when taken from the Indians of the plains and sheepherders are quarreling over each I other's claims just east of the Cascades. "The ascent from Elwah River to the j mountain top is so gradual as to be scarcely noticeable. After traveling for a long time with very little labor we looked ba^k to discover to our surprise that we were far above the river. The timber there is wonderfully open and free from under growth. We could see long distances in j all directions through the woods. The j trees are immense. We cut down a cedar \ that measured 300 feet. "Game of every sort was most plentiful. ; There were black bears, cougars and a large gray wolf almost the size of a Newfound land dog. This seems to be the last resort of the elk, and from the manner with j which it is slaughtered it will not remain j long there. We found an animal whicn I ! had never before seen. I have looked it j up in the books, but have been unable to find any exact description of it. There is an animal called the mermit which an- ! swers something of its description. We j found it only above the timber line in the j mountains. It is about the size of a pug- ! dog. It lives in holes, dug stiaight down- j ward, and is almost never seen except as j it sit* on the edge of the hole. It whistles j like a mau and deceived ns contiuuaily. As we passed along the trail we could hear this whistle, as of some man hailing us. Turning, we would, if the conditions were right, discover the little whistling mer mit, as we have agreed to call it, sitting j perfectly motionless above its nest. If we i moved on he would hail us again with hh sharp, shrill cry. If we shot at him the bullet must kill instantly we would lose him, for if he had one kick of life remain ine it would drop him into his hole. We caught quite a number, however, and found them very fine eating. The animal ! has a long fur, which is very fine. It is | very fat and yields an excellent oil. There j were great quantities of game birds, grouse j and pheasants in particular, and the j i streams were filled with fish. "On the north slope of the second range of mountains we found two glaciers, which were ten miles across and contain ing crevasses into which you could drop a house. "We found several mineral springs con taining iron and sulphur water, which even the horses seemed to like. "Our first definite stop out from Port Angeles was at a place called Death Val ley. It is on the Government trail, and is a desolate and depressing place. The next was at Starvation Flat, 4500 feet up the i mountain. It was markfd and so named by the Government engineers. From there ! we moved on to Government Pass over | the mountains, to where we finally located and remained. We found in our prospect , ing a veritable mountain of iron. After : ward we located what we consider a very 1 valuable lead of gold and silver ore, which we are making arrangements to work." S/\Njy\ MONICA'S FO^Esypy sxajion The Forestry Station at Santa Monica, in j Southern California, occupies a most in- . teresting and picturesqus site. The town, \ Santa Monica, is perhaps as well known as ; any part of the California seacoast. because ; it is particularly accessible from Los An-; geles by railroad, and has become the leading watering-place between Coronado and Monterey. A long sweep of seashore, bold, hizh cliffs, and an almost level plain above them, ris:ng north and northeast to , the bluest of mountain ranges, and tray- | ersed by deep barrancas, or straight-sided ; canyons — such is the general aspect of the great Santa Monica Rancho. Fifty years ago, 100,000 acres here, the estate of an old ; Spanish pioneer, supported vast herds of horses and cattle. Then came the railroad and the American town-builders. The greatest and deepest barranca in ; this entire Santa Monica plain is that known as the Santa Monica Canyon. It ! is not really a canyon in the strict inter pretation of the Spanisa word, which re fers to mountain ravines, but more nearly '■ conforms to the Spanish idea of a bar : ranca — a wide cleft across the plains from i the mountains to the sea. In reality, ! there are two large barrancas there, run i niug in a direction somewhat parallel for ! fo*tr or five miles, although they are some ! times close together and at other times i wide apart. The narrow tongue of and between them extends to within an eighth of a mile of the ocean. The two streams j that flow through these deep and well wooded depressions unite at the foot of this gradually sloping tongue of land that overlooks the sea beaches. Here, on the sides and summit of this narrow, central plateau, between two deep gorges, the Santa Monica Forestry Station is situated. It is almost completely bidder from the town and the watering-place. It is greatly sheltered from storms, and yet the view from its heights is wonderfully extensive. The twenty acres belonging to the For estry Station, a lit Ile arboretum tr«ct, with hardly any waste upon it, extends from the bottom of the northern Santa Monica Canyon, tip slopes and across levels to the very top of the'TOesa, on the same plane as the town itself, and looks down from there to the bottom of .the south canyon. A View From Hurricane Hill in the Heart of the Olympian Mountai ns in Northwestern Washington— A Terra Incognita. THE SAX FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 12, 1896. f JIB .NEW dIMS JLND OLD JMKiS JMidrxight programmes ir\ tke Forest O.N T.HE RUSSIA RIVER Jhe First EVent » Was . Qivten to JJonor - Jtarnj Ed Wards — Jhe Old Sires arvd Their Quests The origin of the midsummer high jinks in the majestic redwoods is not veiled in mystery. Since the first outing of the Bo iiemian Club, which took place in July, 187S, the magazines and newspapers of two continents Wave published and illus trated stories of the Biinimer festival of Bohemia. Fred M. Somers and Frank M. Pixley described the outing scenes for the Argonaut. Harper's Monthly reproduced Tavernier's celebrated cartoon of the sec ond Guerneville jinks, sired by James F. Bowman, one of the founders of the club. To Harper's Weekly Henry J. Brady and Marcus P. Wiggin con tributed articles descriptive of the doings in the redwoods. The fame of the jinks has spread abroad until every scrap of intelligence regarding its origin and action is eagerly sought for. Gertrude Atherton in one of her novels depicts the scene as she saw it as a summer guest at Cazadero. The Bohemian Club was a very lively institution after it moved from the original quarters on Sacramento street, at the corner of Webb, to the "spacious apartments" over the California market on Pine street. New members came in and as the rooms were all on tho same floor companionships were readily formed. The recruits were as eager as the veterans to promote high-jinks revels, and so when the suggestion came to give an all-night picnic or an outdoor jinks as a send-off to Harry Edwards, who was then breaking away irom old-time associations at the California Theater to try his for tunes in the Atlantic cities the club thought something novel should be done to testify its regard for Harry. Surely no one had done more for the club from its infancy until that time than Harry Edwards. Tnomas Newcomb, one of the early city editors of The Cat.l. and the first president of the club, had perhaps done quite as much for the institution as the eenial actor, but the latter, while not jealous or unwilling to acknowledge the worth of others, still clung to the cherished faith that he was nearer and dearer to the hearts of Bo- I hernia by reason of devoted service to her cause than any other man. Recurring to the all-night picnic Frank Pixley wanted it to take place on the La gunitas, I. Gutte had a plan for a Sausalito ■ outing aboard the yachts. Joseph Tilden, ! Fred Somers and Hugh Burke were in favor of a far-away, secluded place in the ! forest. The subject was discussed all around, but as Mr. Tilden was chief of subsistence he determined to establish his camp near a base of supplies known as Taylor's sum | mer hotel, on Paper mill Creek. The outinc was a success, but some I schoolteachers and other demure campers who had pitched their tents in that region i for summer solace hardly knew what to : think of the night proeramrne. There was ■ a high jinks, it is true, but there was no i platform or music, other than vocal chorus. j A cam pfire wa9 lighted and around itgath j ered the club members. Harry Edwards j was the central figure. His talk was pa j thetic and full of the poetry inspired by ! the sublimity of the forest. luore than ! that, he was impressed by the dissolution I of the old California Theater Company | and his separation from John McCullough, i Barton Hill, Stephen Leach. Thomas | Keene, William Mestayer, Walter Leman I and others of the famous organization. He was going East to recast his lot in life among strangers. Harry Edwards, with all of his excellent qualities, could cush, and when once started in this direc | tion no one could outgush him. Tlsecamp i fire scene took a sympathetic bent, but joy reigned in the precincts of the bar not far distant. Charles Warren Stoddard, the poet, was there, and he was quite as sad as Harry Edwards, and quite as poet j ical in his sadness. Dr. Swan prescribed i a special punch for the jinke, as the mcl ', nncholy seemed to be deepening, and ; Joseph D. Strong was delegated to mix the i ingredients of the beverage. The memory jof that punch was not obliterated. It still lives in Strong's cartoon of the first mid summer high jinks. The first outing on Paper-mili Creek was successful. The second high jitiks, a year later, amonn the great redwood forest trees was not only a success, but it was a revelation. Preparations were made in due time for trantportation by special train and (or subsistence and shelter. Hugh M. Burke was appointed sire, and Joseph Tilden superintended the commis sary department. John W. Taylor, the I Superintendent of Schools, Theodore P. \ Payne, Walter G. Holmes and Dr. Benja ! mm Swan constituted a committee, along with the sire and Mr. Tilden, to select a site. An amphitheater or space, covered with towering trees of the largest size and high walled by a densely wooded canyon, was found on the south side of the Rus sian River, a mile or more from Duncan's > Mills. A short distance from the camp a i stream of water tumbling down ledges of the rock made a beautiful cascade in the i forest, and when Jules Tavernier had the • cascade illuminated with lanterns the ef fect was encnanting. Several days in advance Joseph Tilden procured the necessary supplies, and, tak- I ing with him a corn of helpers, promised | a good dinner, served by the club, on the arrival of the train with the jinks crowd. Every club has its kickers, and the kickers , said the journey to the Russian River, | twice the distance of the previous year's journey, was too great; that no food could be obtained, and that the whole thing would prove a dismal failure. The train, with a hundred members or more, arrived 0.1 time. The march through the woods a half mile to camp disclosed forest scenes new and wonderful to many of the party. When the selected amphitheater was reached the members of the advance com mittee were bailed as heroes. The magni tude of the giant trees of the forest, their stately symmetry and solemn maj esty caused a feeling of reverence to min gle with the sentiment of admiration. Joe Tilden was the hero of the night. The dinner that ho berved was delicious. The onion *oup of the breakfast became historic. The night scene was of surpass ing beauty. The artists Jules Tavernier, Toby Rosenthal and Julian Rix were in ecstacy. The cartoon to commemorate the event, to picture the trees, th« cascade and the general scene was to be a joy for ever. Sketches were made of the cascade and the striking incidents of the jinks; but so many artists were doing the work that the cartoon was never finished, and on the walls of the Bohemian Club no rec ord can be found of this early but famous midsummer high jinks. John W. Taylor has some of the original sketch*! made by Toby Rosenthal, and there is in some place the original sketch of the illuminated cascade by Tavernier The sire'f subject was "As You Like It," and one of the chief contributors was John F. Swift. The members were reluctant to leave the famous strove. Many were so enthusi astic that a meeting was called and quite a sum of money subscribed to purchase the property for the club. It was then and there resolved to hold all the midsummer jinks in the cascade forest, but when the committee went to look at the place a year later all the trees had been cut away. Only a forest of stumps and the cascade remained. A grove equal in beauty, with the ad vantage of a softer climate, was found for the third jinks in 1880. The crowning suc cess of the preceding jinks in the Russian River had silenced all the kickers. No resistance has since been offered to the annual outing, and it is significant that all the outings since have been held in the Russian River belt, with the eicf.p lion of one departure, Fred Somers' Buddha jinks in Mill Valley. The first jinks at the Guerneville forest was sired by General W. H. L. Barnes and the second there by James F. Bowman. It was in the Guernevilie forest that IN THE HEART OF BOHEMIA. Fred M. Somers introduced the idea of the cremation of Care, which Tavernier's fa mous painting so accurately illustrates. This was the fourth jinks of the midsum mer series in the woods. To the regular order from the beginning the series was sired: Harry Edwards, 1878; Hugh M. Burke, 1879; W. H. L. I Barnes, 1880; James F. Bowman, 1881; George T. Bromley, A. G. Hawes. 1882; j Paul Neumann. 1883; Stuart M. Taylor, 1884; Andrew McF. Davis, 188o; George Chismore, 1886; Peter Robertson, 1887; James D. Phelan, 1888; Daniel O'Connel!. 18b9; E. B. Pomroy. 1S90; J. Dennis Arnold, 1891; F. M. Somers, 1892; Joseph D. Redding, 1893; Peter Robertson, 1894; Vanderlynn Stow, 1895. Among the artists whose cartoons com memorate jinks in the woods may be men tioned J. D. Strong, Jules Tavernier, 1 | Barfchaus, John Stanton, A. Jouillin, • Latimer, Thomas Hill and Julian Rix. F. Marion Wells, sculptor, constructed of gunny-bags and plaster the statue oi 1 the patron saint of Bohemia which stood I three years in Meekar's Grove. He made also the Buddha figure for the jinks in 1 Mill Valley, where a grove was, in fact, ' | purchased. ' From its inception the midsummer ! high jinks has been a growing institution. • In its development the artists in music ' have been active and efficient. Stephen > L<-ach and Ben Clark in the early days 1 gained special recognition. Joseph D. ' Redding and H. J. Stewart coming later ' made music a leading feature. The club • quartet and chorus of the early outinps ' were succeeded in time by the complete orchestra and the full band. Nowadays special trains and boats are 1 engaged for the Bohemians. Instead of • tents for a night the camp is established • for a month. In the forest for weeks pre " ceding the annual event "the nights are " filled with music" and no cares infest the • day. In the Bohemia of the early period, " which now seems a summertime in sunny long ago, the leading high jinks spirits . were: Frank Pixley, Clay Greene, Frank . Unger, Ed Townsend, Raphael Weill, AT SANTA MONICA— "WOODMAN, SPARE THAT TREE. 7 ' Engene Dewey, Casper Schenck, Charles j Dungan, James A. Thompson, A. G. j Hawes, Henry Marshall, Leon Weill, j John Hewston Jr., Stewart Men- ; zies, George W. Granniss, Joseph ' R. Grismer, A. D. Bradley, Vir gil Williams, John Hodge, Jerome Hart, Kd Ruehling, Ted Locke, Harry Gil lig, Charles Foster, Charles Stone, James A. Robinson, Captain McDonald, Dan O'Connell, Peter Robertson, Theodore Payne, Walter Holmes, Robert C. Rogers, j Paul Neumann, Henry Eickoff, George Hickox, Ned Peters, E. L. G. Bteele, Ben Clark, J. H. Simpson, Charles Leonard, A. McF. Davis, Selim Woodworth, Fred Woodworth, Harry Brady, Harry Dam, Fred Crocker, George Crocker, Raoul Martinez, Dr. Powers, A. C. Niles, Charles G. Yale, Ed H. Hamilton, John L. Lathrop, Dr. Younger, BarbourT. Lathrop, J. H. N. Irwin, Alexander Hamilton, Henry Hey man, C. A. Low, N. J. Brittan, | Theodore Wore 9, Teddy Holden, George W. Nagle, George Bayley, Sidney M. Smith, John H. Boalt, Charles Elliott, Joe ! I Strong, Jules Tavernier, and Paul, the real j 1 American. Oi the eighteen sires thirteen survive, i and ten live in San Francisco. Paul Nea- I j manu dwells in Hawaii, J. D. Redding in \ | New York and Andrew McFarland Davis i [in Boston. The live on whom the cares of I life no longer rest are: Harry Edwards. i Stuart Taylor, James F. Bowman. E. B. j Pomroy and Fred M. Somers. Of the I living pires Hugh M. Burke is ! the senior and Vanderlynn Stow the junior. Joseph Tilden, Jules Taver nier and John Hodge, who were active spirits in the early jinks, have gone j over the river. General John Hewston Jr. j is still very much alive and ready to re- j same his annual duty of building the eof- i fin for the cremation of Care. Uncle George Bromley holds the office of high priest of Bohemia, ana when other duties call him away he directs the eloquent Gen eral Barnes to take his place. The next midsummer high jinks will be sired by Albert Gerberding. The predic tion goes that be will prove equal to the occasion. A ; QLjIJ^IPSE JIT T.HE HEJ\KT OF BO<HE«MIJI Jhe Immortal HusK of the RedWoods SGEM OF T.HE REVELS yV Picturesque Bit of Jteture That Is Worth Grossing the Gontinent to VieW To the lover of the wild and picturesque in nature, a trip down the Russian River o "Bohemia"— the grove of redwoods just out from the old mill town of Guerne ville—is well worth crossing a continent to see. This noble congregation of coni fers—Sequoia seinpervireno— is altogether the most magnificent forest accessible by railroad from San Francisco, the trip there and back being made in one day, with three vast noon hours to wander at will in "God's first temples." The entire way from Santa Rosa, a distance of twenty-five miles, is one of unimazined beauty broken hillcliains set to orchard and vine yard or left to nature's unpruned forestry, and canyon and vale between, green with hop gardens or scented haycocks bulging to the sun. A little beyond the town and tbe track skirts a dizzy wall which overlooks a sweeping curve of river. The rails qg. ahead make steely ribbons through the tutted grass and blowing wild oats. vVe have left behind the dwellings of men, but the house of an eagle is made out high up on the topmost spire of a splint ered pine — an "airy cartload of fagots" — near which, on a bare limb, we discover one of the nestlings preening its feathers in the sun. The "chopped-out" district is now wholly passed, and we experience the indescribable exhilaration that comes with the sight of primeval woods. And such woods, pine and fir, and, kingliest of all, the redwood, towering in unscathed majesty. A mountain covered with these giant conifers is inconceivably sublime, and no words can depict tae solemn im pressivenejs of a deep gorge fiiled with the black, upright shafts. Never do I behold these matchless trees without an instinc tive stretching out of my arms in greeting. The end of the track is the gateway to Bohemia proper, the central group of red woods belonging to a reserved tract of ten acres. It is the chosen grounds for the ! annual jinks of the Bohemian Club, and from this fact derives its name. A grander i grove cannot be pictured. The columnar ! trees are maishaled on a level depression of glen, with a margin of precipitous mountain sides. Glimpses of these cir cling walls, seen through the somber shade, are like the stained windows in some splendid cathedral — bo rich and varied is the coloring. One arched hill space shows the twisted red of madrono outlined on a ground of varnished laurel. Another is a rock face painted with metallic oxides and veined with white quartz; then a bank superbly noduled with moss and lichens, a briery patch snnbnrnisbed, a stucco of wild flowers, and everywhere an exquisite tracery of poison oak — Rbus toxicodendron — on a dark sur face of bark. The redwoods of Bohemia are not so large as those of the Montgomery woad in Mendocino, but they are colossal enough to inspire reverent awe in the beholder. The largest measures fifty feet in circum ference, and, like all its fellows, the short, bristling limbs do not begin for nearly a hundred feet up tbe bole. While our feet pressed soundlessly on the russet leaf mats we drank in the balsamic air like a cor dial, and for the time being shared the vigor and perennialaess of these living towers. Who shall put into words tbe penetrat ing hush and immortal tenderness of the redwoods, where nature seems ever at prayer or too profoundly happy to break the stillness save by the faint tinkle of water dropping over the smoothed round ness of stones or the soft stir of an occa sional songless bird? The usual feathered or furry creature snuns the perpetual twi light of the redwoods, and if found there has no voice for greeting. Only enormous slugs make iridescent trails over the moist leaves underfoot. There were ferns of various species in the grove, but no flowers except a faded pink oxalis, which invariably grows under the sequoia. Where a streamlet loses it self in a reedy dip a tiny lake is formed, its bosom floating a variety of semi aquatic vegetation. Ninetta Kamf.s.