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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, July 26, 1896, Image 29

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1896-07-26/ed-1/seq-29/

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A Felix
QoWr\ Designed
for pVincess
Beautiful JWeltics
From Fashionable
Genters of
The last of the three gowns shown in the
illustrations is from Felix and is composed
of silk muslin striped with sets of gold tin
sel or silk lines ; f rotn below the upper part
of the sleeves to tho elbow the decreasing
fullness is arranged into spaced tucks.
White satin bolero elaborately embroid
ered with gold and edged with lace re
lieved with gold threads, and finished off
with smart revers in mordore velvet, each
forming double points divided by a taper
ing fluting, and resting on delicate accor
dion pleatings of pink and green silk
muslin. Long vest fronts in cream lace,
describing closacoquilles round the neck
and down the^sides. Velvet belt grace
fully knotted into loops and ear-like ends.
Toque in fluffy lisse or white silk muslin ,
composed of masses of fine faille pleatings
outlined with baby ribbon in black velvet,
, which are veiled round the brim with
black tulle. Wide loop to match. White
and black oiseaux de paradis plumes. A
tuft of roses and choux of muslin raise the
brim at the back.
The pretty evening frock is a model of
simplicity, being made of a pale rose
glace taffeta. The bodice is gracefully
draped with white monsseline de soie,
two long scarfs of which extend down
the right side edged with lace at the ends,
which is beautified with tiny opals sewn
thickly over it. Tbe same lace forms the
very stylish sleeves. An edging of opals is
seen on the mousseline, wnich is artisti
cally carried from the right arm to the left
side at the waist line.
The tea gown is one just completed for the
troosseau of the Princess Maud. The de
sign, for a slender woman, is very grace
ful. It is carried out in turquoite blue
. figured silk striped with black. The yoke
is made of straps of white guipure over
black satin, alternating with bouillonnes
of tbe blue silk. The puffs of the sleeves
are trimmed to match. The Watteau back
is drawn in at the waist by a girdle of
black ribbon. The gown is lined with a
lighter shade of blue silk.
I see that the Duchess of Marlborough
was present at the marriage of Lady
Sophie Cadogan, which was the smartest
wedding of the season in London. The
Duchess wore a pink and pray shot glace
silk, with a collar-band and sash of pink
glace. Her large black hat had ostrich
plumes to mutch and a bow of gray chine
ribbon. Tbe very pretty bride wore an
unusually charming gown. It was of the
richest ivory satin obtainable. Round
the hem of tne skirt and the long train
was embroidered a beautiful floral design
in silver and small pearl?. This was fin
ished at the edge with three tiny ruches of
chiffon. The bodice was made with a
chiffon yoke narrowly tucked and bor
dered with exquisite Brussels lace, over
which softly draped chiffon, inserted with
pearl and silver embroidery, was drawn
into a high satin sash. The transparent
sleeves, of drawn chiffon, were completed
at the top with bow epaulets of embroid
ered satin. Lady Bophie's "going-away"
dress, of ivory crepe de chine, had a sim
ple but lovely bodice draped with Aiencon
lace, caught at one side with the palest
Malmaison carnations.
At the neck a soft touch of this becom
ing silk was introduced. A quaint little
cravat of lace was very becoming. The
Jong, tight-fitting sleeves of ruched
mousseline de soie had epaulets of crepe
de chine, and the full, softly hanging
skirt was edged with a ruching of mousse
line and lace insertions. Her large white
hat was covered with feathers. The seven
bridesmaids were attired alike in gauzy
and ethereal gowns of ivory mousseline de
Boie, the full bodices veiled with flounces of
deep cream lace, lightly embroidered with
diamonds. The long sleeves of lace were
transparent from the elbow, and the soft
skirts, tbe foundation's of which were
of accordion-pleated glace, were veiled
with two skirts of mousseline de soie, the
top one being finished with a narrow tulle
ruche. The long sashes were of white
glace ribbon, with a design of earlsnds of
pale tinted flowers, tied with small true-
Jovrrs' knots, and were fastened on one
side with diamond buttons, the long
ends falling to the edge of the
skirt?. Their hats were of white fancy
straw, caught up on one side and softly
draped around the crowns with folds of
white tulle. They were trimmed with
glace ribbon to match the cashes, black
tulle and a plume of feathen on one side
tied with a dow of ribbon. The Princess
of Wales was in a lovely dress of ivory
silk, brocaded in a design of mauve con
volvulus, with a folded belt and collar of
■ mauve satin, and the skirt edged with lace
insertion. The Princess wore a white
bonnet wreathed with, mauve tulle,
sprinkled with gold sequins with small
tips of the same hue on the left side. The
Princesses Victoria and Maud of Wales
were dressed alike in grass lawn embroi
dered in pale blue and made up over blue
silk; the fronts of the bodices were prettily
draped with blue chiffon, tbe sashes and
collars matching, and the Bisirts were
edged with a narrow blue frill. They Wore
toques composed of dcep-hued roses and
foliage, with blue osprey at the side.
If any of my readers secured at the re
cent silk sales a goodly number of yards
of crepe de chine they can at once have a
gown in the very latest style, as there is
an absolute rage for this fabric in Paris
and London. One creation of tbe palest
shade of gray has tbe hem of the skirt
trimmed with three very narrow frills of
Valenciennes lace. The bodice overhangs a
corselet, and brace-like paulettes are
made of creamy lace studded with silver
sequins. Ronnd the vraist is twisted a
belt of cherry-colored silk, which again
appears at tbe neck. Quite as lovely is
one of pale lavender tone. The simp c
skirt hangs perfectly, and tbe well-cot
bodice has niched sleeves of white mousse
line de Boie. Of this the pretty vest is
made, with tbe addition of innumerable
little frills of Valenciennes. About the
waist is twisted a ribbon of a deeper shade
of the lavender.
QoWr\s Tkat Hav>e Just Appeared in tke Fashionable Worlds of Lor\dor\ ar\d NeW York
. . ■ ••• . ■ . - . ■ -
Sashes a Fad in.
NeW York
RevWal of a pretty
Old-Jime Docor
atiorv With
Among the very latest frivolities of rib
bon-loving womanhood is noted the re
vival of the sash. A hint from Paris pave
the idea, a few American modistes quickiy
appropriated it, and of a sudden sashes
are taking the lead in the procession of
fads, says the New York World.
The revival of this pretty old time dec
oration is evident not only on the cos
tumes of young women and children, but
of women of all ages. The elderly matron
no. longer allows the generous curves of
her figure to shape themselves uninter
ruptedly. Sash ribbons adorn her simplest
gown and flaunt themselves gayly from
the frocks that wouid otherwise be staid
and sober.
The opposite extremes of a fashion are
wont to flourish contemporaneously and
it is perhaps not unnatural that the modes
of a single season should demand both
the very narrow belt and the very wide
sash. The inch-wide belt that requires
mathematical precision for its adjustment
as well as an extraordinary trimness of
figure can alternate only with the broadest
and widest of sashes. The latter are con
sidered appropriate on any gown and
many are of so rich texture and beautiful
color that they are sufficient for the entire
decoration of a costume.
Roman sashes are in tbe highest favor,
a fact which the owners of certain precious
heirlooms will De greatly gratified to
hear. The wider the silk and the gayer
the stripes and the heavier the material
the more fashionable such an heirloom is.
A sash combining delicate shades of
mauve, pink and blue and set off by plain
stripes of black and white will harmonize
with almost any of. the light summer
organdies and batistes, while tbe plain
ness of a white or ecru jrown is invariably
relieved by such ai addition. On the
other hand there are sashes of deeper and
richer tones with striking, combinations of
black, blue, green and gold that form
charming accessories to the darker silks
and muslins that are inducted in the sum
mer wardrobe.
An illustration of the power of a Roman
sash to give the distinctive touch to a cos
tume was noted the other evening at a
brilliant seashore function. The gown,
which was worn by a slender young
woman, was of black gauze. It was sim
ply fashioned and cut with a square neck
and drooping sleeves. About the waist
was tied a sash, wherein black, gold
flame-color and a touch of scarlet were
most exquisitely mingled.
Another novelty of the present season
takes the form of gauze sashes, a very
hapt>7 innovation.
The saga itself is of black gauze, bright
colored flowers being embroidered upon it
at frequent intervals in an approximately
regular pattern. Or the gauze may be
white, if the sash is designed for wear with
a lighter gown. The sash is bordered with
Ribbons that are plaided, striped or
flowered are used for sashes, and the num
berless styles of ribbon make, of course, a
wide variety possible. When ribbon eight,
ten or twelve inches in width is used for
making a sash, there is usually a bow on
tbe shoulder of the gown of tbe same ma
terial. This is a new fancy and a very
pretty one, the shoulder-knot of the stiff
taftata giving a very stylish touch even to
a simple gown.
For the happy owner of a sash the first
question is, of course, in regard to tying it. I
All ignorant ones should mow, then, that
the bow, when the sash is of soft «ilk,
should be tied directly in the back. The
loop-ends of tbe bow-knot should be but
three or four inches in length, leaving the
ends to extend nearly to the bottom of the
gown. For a sash tied in this fashion
three yards is a good length, though nome
of the newest sashes are only two and a
half in length. However, as the old-fash
ioned sashes are lour or five yards lonp,
and the Jength must be disposed of in
some fashion, the oldtime bowknot, with
loops and ends nearly equal in length,
is "till frequently seen. If the beauty of
tbe sash justifies this departure from ac
cepted styles the wearer is not likely to be
When moderately narrow ribbon is used
j it is a pretty fashion to tie the bow at one
side of tbe front in a wide milliner's knot
with several loops and two ends. This Is
becoming, however, ouly to slim figure?.
At present the sash is the most conspic
uous feature of fashionable dress. It is
well that it is being made the most of
while it ia here, for it is too charming and
comfortable a fashion to endure long.
Shoulder capes and -mantles are all now
being marked down, and some of them are
certainly to be had at figures which would
not cover the cost of the fabrics employed.
Those of grass lawn over silk, much beau
tified with appliques of lace and sequins,
are snre temptations, but those of black
chiffon over black satin, white satin or
j glace are well nigh irresistible. An even
ing cape of white cloth, lined with palest
preen taffeta, has a long scarf of the Mime
which ties in a great bow in front. It is
bordered with an odd Paisley pattern and
may be safely purchased and laid aside,
for it will do good service all next winter.
Young girls who dress smartly are quite
fascinating in the latest hats made of
chiffon, alternating with small frills of
ince. They are to be had in shades of
pale pink and a delicate green principally,
these being the most becoming colors.
A spray of roses, or a mauvre iris is the
only trimming. This latter is a flower
now enjoying great iavor, but the reign of
flowers is drawing to a close, for already
the leading milliners are discussing birds
and wings. The every newest quills are
of soft texture and curled. Thus far this
novelty has not left Paris, so such quills
are extremely expensive. Ordinary cha
peaux having black quills tipped with
white are in great demand. When used on
hat composed of a straw* of a ficelle
hue, tied with scarfs of grass-lawn ribbon,
having a narrow silk edge, they look very
well, but the latest fad in the most exclu
sive millinery establishments in Europe is
a combination of white birds and cherries
or currants on tbe most cbie of hats. Tbere
is a steady demand for a Holland tone of
straw. Very picturesque and becoming
are the imported hats in Manilla or Ital
ian straw, trimmed with white feathers,
birds of paradise and mixtures of roses
and ribbons beneat h the brim at the side.
They appear to have been especially de
signed to wear with the beautiful toilettes
of embroidered lawn , organdy and muslin
which have so delighted our artistic souls,
and it is true that at Ascot and the Grand
Prix the best of the frocks were certainly
those of embroidered linen and those show
ing lace or lawn bodices allied to shot silk
> skirts.
Things for Mer\
to Wear
Sack and Regulation
Lounge Suits or
Unless a man intends to play lawn
bowls, golf or tennis, or wishes to ride,
drive or sail, he mast, if at any fashion
able resort, if in his office, indeed, if visi
ble at all, appear in a lounge suit, but he
has one choice; be may wear either the
sack or the regulation lounge, or the morn
ing suit. The most fashionable lounge
coat has three buttons, the waistcoat and
trousers being of the same fabric, or, as I
have previously remarked, a waistcoat of
brown Holland or linen' with horn but
tons is correct and popular. Such coats
are rounded gradually away in front. In
England the flaps of the pockets even are
rounded and the coat must hang as nearly
straight as possible. I have seen several
excellent lounge suits here this summer,
bat many have a serious defect; the
shoulders slope entirely too much, when,
in reality, they should have a decidedly
square effect.
I saw a New Yorker last Monday who
certainly was curiously attired. He had
on an excellent covert coat, a good lounge
suit, an incorrect bat, very pointed shoes,
such as have entirely gone out, and the
latest style gray suede self-stitched gloves.
Truly an odd combination. Fancy tan
shoes and euede glows. Well, to be sure,
this particular man is not known, when at
home, as ever being smartly dressed. I
only mention these facts to call attention
to the fact that care should be bestowed on
every detail that relates to a man's cloth
For wear, when yachting, nothing has
been found to equal blue serge made with
a reefer or pea jacket for stormy weather.
Colored shirts are worn with such suits.
"For a dinner or an evening reception, if
not in naval uniform, if simply a civilian
on board a yacht, unless the occasion be
extraordinary, the same rules prevail as
at any other afternoon or evening func
tion. The visitors, of course, are dressed
as they would be on land, the members
of the yachting party in their yachting
clothes or in uniform, or in informal even
ing dress. Generally here tha Oowes or
dress jacket takes the place of the evening
coat by those who are living on board tbe
yacht." ' C C.
J\ Very Ghic Womarx
A very ebic woman looks her best in a
white foulard silk covered with queer little
blac* scrolls. In this case the nest is com
posed of black mousseline de aoie over
wnite satin. On the mousseline are appli
qued lace roses. The sleeves have a very
small puff and are ruched. This gown is
so skillfully arranged that it oan also be
worn with a fichu of black mousseline de
soie, round which is seen a knife-pleating
of mousseline, which, in turn, is edged
with a little Valenciennes lace. Foulards
are exceedingly fashionable and one hav
ing a white ground with a blue pattern
upon it has lately been completed by a
good woman. The bodice is seamed in the
center of the back and drawn in narrow
folds to the front, where it is fastened with
rosettes, ornamented with diamond but
tons. A loose rever falls on either side of
tbe bust to reveal a fichu and collar made
of esprit net, outlined with grass lawn
embroidery frilled with lace.
A skirt of a good quality of black and
white silk may be considered both an
economical and desirable purchase, for
it looks extremely well with a bodice of
black chiffon, .over white silk, trimmed
with white lace, or with one of white
chiffon with here and there a touch of
black. One such skirt worn with an ac
cordion pleated white chiffon bodice,
having a transparent yoke of fine black
thread all tracra with diamonds, was pro
nounced a decided success.
I do not presume it will do a particle of
good to urge women not to wear their old
blacK skirts of silk, satin or brocade with
light bodices, for they — "most of them —
dearly love the combination. It is far
from effective usnally, and in summer de
c.dedly inappropriate. Those who pur
chase two or three brocade or chine
bodices for this purpose'inafce a great mis
take, for if the skirt must be utilized let
the evening bodices be studies in black
and white. or white and black. A. broad
corselet belt of jet traced with steel is said
to add mnch to such toilettes. Chiffon
when arrayed picture fashion and crossed
is very becoming to most figures, but
remember, skirts of black canvas, made
over black taffeta silk, are most desirable
to wear with fancy bodices. They are
made perfectly plain, but they must be
very well cut and hung, otherwise they
lose their .cachet. Bodices made
of silk showing tulle-fillea basques of
satin ribbon, either black or colored, are
said to be coming into fashion, as are also
the tabbed basques made with edgings of
kilted ribbons. A bodice lately noted and
much admired was made of cream colored
satin, covered with a creamy net of a
deeper tone, the basque and collar befog
edged with a quilling of satin.
JMaltese Lace ii\ Vogue
Maltese lace is again in vogue, and with
chiffon of a yellowish hue, it is quits de
lightful. Entire bodicea with tilled
basques are being made yet with rare suc
cess. A plain but beautifully fine, white
muslin frock having motifs of maltese
lace in wreath designs sewn round the
hem is positively charming.
Boleros are being made of all sorts and
kinds of stuffs; ior instance, one rather
extravagant but very successful dress
maker utilized, the other day, for this pur-
Dose, a deep lace flounce with an applique
of bright tinted velvet guipure round the
top ana down the sides. Su6 is now at
work on two more. One of these will
show a mossy green combination and
another a lovely violet on<\ American
and French women take very kindly to
these smart little affairs and they cer
tainly give a certain air and a finish to
any gown ; one of lace over a white alpaca,
with a touch of color, completely trans
formed it. A dress of white hopsacking
has gone to Lake Tahoe. It has a bolero
braided in green and fichu outlined with
a quilling of black satin ribbon.
When going on a short trip nothing is
more comfortable than one of the very
popular foulard dresses, and although
they have dark grounds when used for
such, purposes, they are relieved by white
vests and chokers. Some also wear white
gloves and veils with them, but tan gloves
end blade veils are in better taste. A good
model for such a gown has a round bodice,
A triple boxpleal in the back is put on as
drapery, tbure being no seams, excepting
those under the arms. A leathern belt,
with a quaint arid handsome buckle, looks
well as a finish. However, many prefer
a girdle of ribbon to match the frock,
which term mates in a smart bow.
A beautiful woman should do every
thing possible to increase he* charms, and
an ugly woman should do everything pos
sible to hide her defects; in fact, an ugly
woman, dressed with care, has many times
proved a serious rival to a beautiful woman
carelessly gowned.
From Newport comes the information
that "many young matrons are weariug
dazzling silks. For example, Mrs. F. M.
P— is a perfect picture in a violet and
white Pekine skirt, jape unie, the stripes
running straight up and down in front.
Corsage of white mousseline de soie over
white silk, entirely plisse. The sleeves
were particularly, pretty, the tops in three
double ruffles plisse, and the lower arm
close-fitting and well draped over the silk.
A Wkite
Wkat a Pretty Qirl
Jook to Sar\ta
The Fetching Gar Was
Dress Worn by a
San JRafael
A pretty young girl last week took to
Santa Cruz a white grenadine. Tho bodice
i« tucked from a yoke of silk embroidery,
which is outlined with a frill of the grena
dine, edced with violet ribbon, bordered
again' with a narrow quilling of black
■satin ribbon. No lovelier gown can be
conceived for an informal dance; indeed,
it is suitable for even a large and formal
affair. The lining is of white taffeta
glace. I like a frock she has of white
pique, for it is not only very well made,
but exceedingly useful as 'well.. It has a
bodice made with some exceptionally fine
Irish lace, and a short jacket as well, with
which she wears dainty vests of chiffon
and mousseline de soie as well, as short
waists of many colors, all well made and
most becoming, accompany this maiden,
who is always smartly clad, on a very
small allowance.
A stylish matron wore in San Rafael re
cently a dark-blue canvas made over a
crimson-Bilk foundation. The bodice had
a yoke effect in front made of a very open
Persian embroidery. The sleeves wire
tight-fitting with cuffs of the embroidery
lined with crimson silk, which extended
well over the bands. Full epauletteß of
the same were very becoming. A simple
black-straw hat with a roll of black chif
fon and some unusually fine crimson roses
completed a stylish costume. Another,
noted the same day, consisted of a light
weight cloth skirt of hunter's green and a
chic jacket of a light-tan shade
which • fitted most perfectly. I cannot
understand why women will accept from
tailors and dressmakers gowns that simply
; disfigure them. At present I am thinking
| of a friend who has an unusually beautiful
figure, whom I lately met attired in a per
j fectly new tailor gown, and this garment,
; altiiough made to order, could not have
i been a worse tit if bought ready made, for
■ the collar and revers wrinkled and set
; simply horribly. Unless a tailor-made
{ costume hts 10 perfection about the neck
i it is a boich, and even if you have fur
j rushed the materials it is wiser to leave it
with tne tailor, as you will never have a
moment's satisfaction, if you have a proper
i pride in your appearance. Marcella.
Special Saving Sale
Those . quaint old German Blue-deco-
A „-. r.v.r '...j,-, rated, Metal-cover*
•• ► - ■-■'"' •* ■ -J& -'— -StoneßeerMuga
fZEt^td ""'j&^.''fkTß'/tAI the rage
\_/P^*»«ft?»^_ GT ■ now • for dining-
J^*7*^^SS«^rv •room - ornaments.
I°> Good %o drink beer
ffj?* J ■■^S-. ir. from, too.. The kind
Sr= ■"' ~^fe. like the Diciure,
CTPaagf^apfc^s regularly $1.00; on
y9| IjjjkjjigfSi |\^sale until \Vednes-
- aSMMCjffi ray Sal/,a l/,j da y' night at 65
jsH^SWo^ll >^ cents. Several
pifnffiiflKßapr'lS^ other styles also go
s^O^^^^g^ on sale at 70c r sl.lo
<fi" T 7i^ i^ i'~ifß and $1.35.
j^Srrg^^,- To make room
I tor Fall Importa-
"^ ■.; i*-^ . . tions, bur : entire
assortment of Fish Sets, Soup Sets, Meat
Sets, etc.,- at . one-third . less than : regular
prices; some at just one-half. „ ..-.
A Quarter of a Block Below Shireva's.
528 and 530 Market : St.,
27 and 29 Sutter St.,
■ 22 Geary St., Near Ream/. : 1
Black .Costumes more popu_ ||
- far and " the San Franolsco |l
depot for procuring the latest ||
styles and best makes. : Fi
Depot for Priestiy'si I
English Serges, 52 inch, 75c yard 1
English Diagonal; 52 inch. 75c yard I
Pncstly's Fancies, $1 to $2.50 yard; |
40 Suits Etamine Xouveante, regu- i
lar price $25 '•• $13.75 Suit H
, Samples forwarded. Goods tent 0. 0. D. H
Telephone Grant 518. ' M
Bk^'^R iSVrrTVMfIMHKHK) iftiH
JX tricity at $1 a sitting; first sitting free: no
scars left; moles; warts, etc., also removed.

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