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16 k California Artist in Holland and Belgium and a XVI Century Aubrey Beardsley F ANTWERP it has been said that the desire and love of wealth is the luling passion. An old monk once wrote that Brussels could boast of noble men, Antwerp of money, Bruges could show the prettiest girls. Louvain was justly proud of her learned men, and the poor town of Ghent could only produce the halters which marked the humiliations to which her turbulent citizens were so frequently subjected, the lordship of Malines was chiefly remark able for the fools which inhabited it. 1 beliere the reputation for unusual simplicity dated from the story that the citizens of Malines once at tempted to extinguish the moon shining through their cathedral tower, mistaking the radiance for a fire. Every town in Holland or Belgium is within a few hours of every other town; therefore the resolve to visit Antwerp or Bruges needs no more deliberation than a sudden irresistible impulse to visit East Oakland or Petaluma, only there is this difference. In California the mighty Portrait-of a Flemish Woman of the XVI Century. resolve to travel need not be communicated to all the neighbors, nor does it awaken in their minds any overwhelming anguish of interest. To leave a town in Holland in order to cross the border into Belgium is a grave matter; to leave a little village for the same purpose is to become a public character. A little ramshackle carriage, with flapping tarpaulin blinds, stops before the door. It is called the "rideout." The postman, Jan de Ziouw, knocks on the door and opens it, shouting in Dutch that it is time to leave. This is the signal for the gathering of the cians, and the de parture is accomplished only after innumerable handshakes and nods of the head and repeated good wishes for a safe journey. The children fol low t:.e rideout as long as possible, clattering over the stones with their wood.en shoes and giving vent to their excitement in earsplitting yells. Oh! the tender charms of childhood ! The road to Dordrecht i 3 beautiful. It is autumnal September, but the landscape has the soft freshness of early spring in California. An A Phantom Dog and a Majors Son Translated from the Russian. i During the war of the Caucasus I was j serving in one of the regiments sent i azainst the mountaineers. At that time a | young officer from the Imperial (iuard j Nedewitchef was transferred to our regi- I ment. He was remarkably handsome, witn the figure of a Hercules, and would I have become a general favorite were it not for his shyness and extraordinary misan thropy. Sulky and unsocial in disposi tion, his only affection seemed centered on an enormous black dog with a white i star upon its forehead, called Caro. Once our regiment had to move aaainst a Circassian village that was in revolt. The Circassians defended their position with desperate bravery, but through supe rior numbers we disposed of them easily. The soldiers, driven to frenzy by the stub born resistance of the enemy, killed every one they met. Nedewitchef commanded a j company ano was in front of every- j body. Near a mud hut I met him face to i face, and I was thunderstruck. His j magnificent face was all distorted by an expression of brutal cruelty; his eyes were bloodshot and wandering like those of a maniac in a fit of fury. He was liter ally chopping an old man to pieces with his sword. I was shocked at such a dis play of useless ferocity and hurried for ward to stop him. But before I had j reached him the door of the hut flew'open i and a woman, with a cry which made my blood run cold, rushed out of it and flung herself upon the corpse of the old man. At this sight Nedewitchef sprang back ward as if he had been shot himself and trembled violently. I looked at the woman and couid hardly suppress a cry of sur prise. Heavens, what a gorgeous beauty I was the/el With her iovely face, pale as ! death itself, uplifted toward U3, her mag nificent blacK eyes full of nameless terror and mortal hatred were phosphorescent, flaming like two burning coals as she fixed them upon us. Nedewitchef stared at her like one fascinated and it was with •n effort that coming out of his stupor he gave the orders to beat the rappel in order to put a stop to useless bloodshed. I did not see Nedewitchef a;;ain for sev eral days, and only learned accidentally from his orderly that the same young woman, two days later, had come to his tent, thrown herself at his feet, and pour- Ing her whole soul into her tale had con fessed 8n ardent iove for him. She de clared that, according to the Circassian custom, his courage bad made her his slave and that she wanted to be his wife. Remembering well her look of hatred 1 did not at first believe, but had to yield at last to the evidence. After the submission of the village we encamped there a considerable length of time. One afternoon, calling my dog, I took a gun and went out for a stroll in the wild vineyards. I had no intention to hunt, but simply to take a walk and watch the spienuid sunset from the top of All- Dag. Having gone two or three miles by a narrow path which wou,nd up to the mountain top I entered a small thicket, drowned with sunlight and burning like a jewel set with gold, rabies and diamonds. Under a group of tali trees, lying lazily on a patch of green moss, I saw Nedewit chef; the black-eyed beauty was sitting near him playing with his hair, and asleep at the foot of his master was the faithful dog. Unwilling to break their tete-a-tete, I passed unperceived by them and began climbing higher up. While crossing a thick vineyard I suddenly came upon three Circassians who, perceiving me, rapidly disappeared, though not quickly enough to prevent my seeing that they were armed to the teeth. Supposing them to be runaways from the conquered village 1 passed on without paying them much attention. Charmed by the pleasant evening I wandered about till night and returned home very late and tired out. Passing through the camp toward my tent I at once perceived that something unusual had happened. Armed horsemen rapidly brushed by me. The division ad jutant was galloping furiously in my direction. Curious to knew what had happened I went straight to the crowd. I had hardly approached it when 1 saw it was Nede witc'ief'stent, and a horrid presentiment, which soon became a fearful reality, got hold of me at once. The first object I saw wasama^sof hacked and bleeding flesh lying on the iron bedstead. It was Nedewitchef. He had been literally chopped to pieces witn yatagans and dag gers. At the foot or the bed Caro, also bleeding, was stretched, locking at nis master's remains with such a human ex pression of pity, despair and aflsction mingled that it brought a gush of hot tears to roy eyes. Then it was that' I learned the follow ing: Soon after sunset Caro, furiously barking, ran into the camp. It was im mediately noticed that his muzzle was bleeding. The intelligent dog, getting hold of the soldiers' coats, seemed to in vite them to follow him, which was imme diately understood, and a party was sent with him up the mountain. Caro ran be fore the men, showing them the way, till at last he brought them to a group of trees where they found Nedewitchef's mangled body. A pool of blood was found at quite a distance from the murdered man, for which no one could acconnt, till pieces of coarse clothing disclosed the fact that Caro had had his battle also with one of the murderers and had coma out best in the fight; the latter accounting also for his bleeding muzzle. The black beauty had disappeared— she was revenged. Several of the officers tried to keep Caro, but he would live with none. He had got very much attached to the soldiers, who all doted on him. Several months later the poor animal was killed in bis turn by a mounted Circassian, who blew bia brains out and disappeared. The soldiers buried the dog, and many there were among them who shed tears, but no one laughed at their emotion. Eighteen years rolled away; war was declared with Turkey, and I, as an old Caucasian officer, well acquainted with the seat of war, was ordered off to Armenia. The Turks were in a minority, ano, evi dently feeling afraid, they remained idle. We also had to be inactive, and quietly awaiting developments encamped at Kizil- Tapa, in front of the Aladgin Heights, on which the Turks had entrenched them selves. Camp discipline was not very rig orous at first, but after the unfortunate battle of Kizil-Tapa, which we loet, the most trifling breach in regulations was often punished with death. After awhile I heard people talking of the mysterious apparition of a dog named Caro, who was adored by the old soldiers. Once when I went to see our colonel on business I heard an officer mentioning Caro, wh^en Major T., addressing an artil leryman, remarked: "It must be some trick of the soldiers.'' "What does all this mean ?" I asked the major, extremely interested. "is it possible that you should not have heard the foolish story told about a dog Caro?" he asked me, full of surprise. And upon receiving my assurance that I had not, he explained as follows: "Before our disastrous loss of Kizil- Tapa the soldiers had been allowed many unpardonable liberties. Very often the officers on duty had seen the sentries and patrols asleep. But notwithstanding all their endeavors it had been impossible to < THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 11, 1896. avenue of giant elms, remarkable even for this land of stat?ly trees, points the way. Napoleon laid it out and it is quite as suggestive of his taste for magnificence and pomp as the great tomb under the golden dome of the invalides in Paris. It is a road for a king to drive through in a royal chariot. The little rideout, however, bumps along behind an ancient horse with admirable cheerfulness. In the center of the avenue the thick tree trunks rise like the pillars of a Gothic cathedral and the overarching branches meet high above the head; the sunlight is subdued like the light through siained-glass windows, and at either end of the van ishing aisle a faint blue mist rises like incense. Between the trees, as within a frame, you see constantly changing pictures of Dutch peasant life, ia the fresh, keen, early morning air. The women are already bending over their work in the fields or washing at the edge of their garden in the little silver streams. The lields roll away to the distance, an emerald sea, and away in the horizon is the inevitable veil of mist. A number of sentimental last impres- I sions are rudely broken in upon I I by the appearance of a woman, I I who empties into her own par- I I ticular "little silver stream" a I I choice collection of potato par- I I ings, flax and salad leaves, an I I "olla podrida" that brings to I I the mind of the unwilling ob- I I server an instantaneous calcula- I I tion: Huw many shining silver I I streams — typhoid fever? How I I much delicate veiling of blue I I mist, aaded to constant exposure I I and weariness, may amount to I I chronic malaria? « To reach Dordrecht it is neces- I I ?ary to cross the River Maas. A I I ferry-boat of the size of a steam I I launch is provided for foot-pas- I I seugers and a clean mmlscow I I lor the transportation of ye- I I hides. The ferry puffs across, I I or waggles across, more prop- I I erly speaking, with the direct- I I ness of aim and purpose so often I I to be remarked in the little tin I I boats and fishes you may have I I propelled in a basin in early I I youth. At the end it makes a I I dash for the landing much as a I I drunken man collects himself I I for a finai effort at his own front I I door. Dordrecht, or Dort, as it I I is called, looks like a pnantom I I city it is in the early morning, I I wrapped in mists that the pale I I sunlight tries vainly to dispel. I I The windmills stand motion- I I less line great spider-webs and I I the towers of the Town Hall I I and the Groote Kerk (the £ig I I Church) look like the masts of I I ships way out at sea. It is a curious little town. I Under the walls the sea- I going vessels come sliding in and huge rafts I with timber from O'erman forests come I floating down to the feet of the windmill?. The streets run up and down and around the corner and back again, witn a piquant irregularity, and are crowded with women in quaint caps and little dogcarts piled high with vegetables and children. Upon leaving the town the train crosses an immense arm of the sea, which was formed centuries ago by an inundation, 10 which the Johns town disaster was nothing. The arduously conquered soil was divided into a hundred islands. Towns and villages were swept away and the los 3 of life was horrible. It is called the "reed forest." From Dordrecht to Antwerp is a distance to be traversed in less than two hours, but the difference in the character of the two countries is hardly less than may be found between the extreme East and the extreme West of the United States. Immediately on the Belgian frontier the trees strike for freedom. catch any of them; hardly did an officer on duty appear going the rounds than an enormous black dog with a white star on its forehead mysteriously appeared, no one knew whence, ran toward any care less sentry and pulled him by his coat and legs to awaken him. Of course, as soon as the man was fairly warned he, would begin pacine up and down his beat with an air of perfect innocence. The soldiers began circulating the most stupid stories about that dog. They affirm that it is no living dog, but the phantom of Caro. a New foundland that had belonged to an officsr of their regiment, who was treacherously killed by some Circassians many years ago, during the last Circassian war with Shamyl." The last words of the major brought back to ray memory the pictures of the long-forgotten past, and at the same time j an uneasy feeling that I could not well de-"j fine. I could not pronounce a word, ana j remained silent. "You heard, I suppose," said the j j colonel, addressing the major, "that the ! commanderin-chief has just issued an order to shoot the first sentry foand asleep on his post." "Yes, but I confess to a great desire I to first try my hand at shooting the phantom dog, or whoever represents it. 1 am determined to expose the trick," ex claimed the major, who was a skeptic. "Wen, there is a good opportunity for you," put in the adjutant. "I am just go '_'OH, HORROR! IT WAS THE CARO OF NEDEWITCHEF I" No more avenues, forced to march with the precision of regiments of soldiers, sometimes allowed to grow only on two sides, the great branches clipped at tho trunk where they threatened to rebel. Instead of the eternal straight lines an insolent little pine forest of young trees straggles away from the train. They stand in ragged groups, their heads together, like whispering children, or they run after each other in twos and threes or stand alone, su'king end silent. The houses in the little villages are painted white, aad are gay with vegetable gardens. The sky is a candid blue, and a few astonished clouds that have most apparently lost their way are traveling back as fast as they may to Holland. The train flies through the pleasant country, that is like pleasant countries all the world over, a little like France, even a little like Cal ifornia. And suddenly here is Antwerp in the distance, and in another moment I the station is reached and you are driv- I ing through the streets. Any town of I which you have read much, whichnlavs I at once a romantic and neroio I I part in the history of the past, I I which forms a background for I I tragedies and operas, must be I I for an instant a disillusionment. I I Everything modern is more or I I less out of place; even in the I I Great square, the Place Yerte, I I you look in vain for the dark, I I rich, old Flemish houses, for I I that background of terrible I I splendor against winch the I I Spanisn faces of the tyrants, the I I horrors of the Inquisition, the I I struggles for freedom have been I I so appropriately and pictu- 1 I resquely depicted. The sunny square is alive I I with idlers. The carriages that I I line it have each a driver, who I I cracks his whip and his joke I I with equal facility. American I I girls, wnii pretty faces, and a I I Eaedeker, most visible, go chat- I I tering into the postoffice or cross I I the square to the street called I I "The Shoe Matket" to invest in I I expensive little Antwerp toys, I I miniature milk cans and wooden B I shoes. The statue of Rubens, B I in the center of che square, is I I covered with leaves, but is not I I wanting in the dignity which B I made the most remarkable B I painter of his time an equally B I distinguished statesman and B I diplomatist. In one corner of I I the square rises the big, black B I weather-stained front of the I I Cathedral of Notre Dame. In the museum, which is I I full of interesting things, I I we find the sketches ior I these and other pictures. Rubens is king, I but hardly less remarkable are the exam- I pies of the work of other men — Van Dyck, | in his early period, like Rubens in sober moments; Franz Hals, in wo n derful portraits, with such overwhelming force and power tnat the pictures near them seem made of paper and painted with water. Only one portrait stands the comparis on. It is that of Simon de Vos, painted by himself. The figure of the painter stands against a dull green background, in velvet of brownish black, one long, fine hand holding a roll of paper, the while of the frill around the necK and wrists of a rich subdued tone, and the face, that under a shower of black hair, looks straight out of the canvas, wears an expression of such smiling mockery that is almost like a personal affront. The eyes follow the observer with intolerable superciliousness, an insolent gayety, at once patronizing and contemptuous. And the maddening ease with which it is painted does not lessen the astonishment of the simplicity of the sur. roundings, even the lettering of the inscription which informs us that be The Daughter of Herodias/' by Quentin Massys, the XVI Century Aubrey Beardsley. insj to make my rounds and examine the posts. Would you like to come with me? Perhaps we will aiscover something." All readily assented. Not wishing to part from good company, and being besides devoured with curiosity, I said I would go. We passed through a lonely gorge and began mounting a steep incline. We'now I distinctly saw the chain of sentries on the ! picket line. We kept to the bush in the | shadow to escape observation, and. in fact, we approached unobserved. Pres ently it became plainly evident that a ' sentinel seated upon a knoll was asleep. We had come within a hundred paces of I him, when suddenly, from behind a bush, darted a huge black dog with a white star on its forehead. Ob, horror! It was the Caro of Nedewitchef. I positively recognized it. The dog rushed up 10 the sleeping sentry and tugged at his leg. I was following the scene with intense concentration of attention and a shudder ing heart when at my very ear there canie the crack of a pistol shot. I started at the unexpected explosion. Major T. had tired attheaog. At the same instant the cul prit soldier dropped to the ground. We all sprang toward him. The major was the first to alight from his horse; but he had hardly begun to lift the body when a heartrending shriei burst from his lips and he fell senseless upon the corpse. The truth became instantly known — a father had killed his own son. The boy had just jained the regiment as a volun teer and had been sent out on picket duty. Owing to a terrible mischance he had met his death by the hand of his own father. After this tragedy Caro was seen no more. A. J. J. Encounters With Forest Monsters A striking looking man, wearing a heavy dark beard and with dark eyes, arrived here a week or two ago on the steamer China and took up his quarters at the Oc cidental. He was attired in a dark blue suit, while on his head was a white soft hat. These, combined with his neglige shirt, careless tie and other features of garb, betokened possible experiences in the wilds. It was soon revealed that this was true. Packed away in his rooms were several puns, seme skins of wild animals, several hunting suits and other parapher nalia used in forays in the mountains and jungles. The man was Lieutenant Joseph Polo of Pans, a noted mm rod and traveler, who has, like his famous namesake, Marco Polo, been exploring remote portions of the world. While abroad he has partici pated in many hunting expeditions. He has gone in quest of the biggest game to be found in the Orient. He visited many different sections, his trip extending through different countries for over a year. He had much good fortune on his hunting trip, and is congratulating himself on the enjoyment he has had. While abroad he has visited India, Bur mah, Java, Cocbin-China, Cambodia and Tonquin. In some of these countries he spent considerable time, but was longer in Cochin-China and Cambodia and Ton quin than any other countries. He as cended the famous Red River in Tonquin has lived in poverty, but introduces himself to every one with a blessing \ upon them, down to the last day— a blessing which this particular ob server accepts with some resentment. A Quintin Massy* leads us to the time-worn conclusion that there is nothing new under the Bun. He is a sixteenth century Aubrey Beardsley. The daughter of Herodias is a part of an altar-piece. She is in a dress of heavy brocade, with a rich pattern; her pale little head, with red hair and redder flower?, under a transparent veil, is finely and firmly drawn against a flat, dark background, in which a whole scene takes place, as in a tapestry. The curious position, the strange expression of the face, that is almost alive with an animation that is far more wonder than horror, con vinces us that the sixteenth century draughtsman is still the superior of his modern imitator, who might with advantage imitate not only lha quaintness and the archaic simplicity of his ancestor out a little of the beauty and a great deal of the reserve of these old pictures. One of the oldest buildings in Antwerp and by far the most interesting is the Museum Piantin-Moretns, established in the house of Christopher Plantin, the painter, who set up bis printing office in 1555. After th« A Quaint Old House in Picturesque Mechlin. middle of the seventeenth century they printed only mass and prayer books. Something of the charm and interest which is attached to Nuremberg, to Bruges, to Verona and to all old cities is re-enlivened before we leave Antwerp, in spite of its well-swept modern streets and boulevard with trees and residences of conventional stateliness. There are old streets and old buildings; the prison of the riotous, gay and devil-may-care tavern painter Jan Steen; the funny little old church at the port: the port itself. If the vessels of every nation do not fill the wide bay formed by the Scheldt, as in the days when Antwerp rivaled Venice for its wealth and prosperity, at least the scene is one of great animation. After Antwerp Mechlin, or Malines, seems dreary and dead. Empty streets, empty squares, around the churches crowds of ragged children, who strike out rudely if you refuse them alms. The children are every where, they swing on iron chains in the great empty marketplace, where a meager fair, a sale of decrepit furniture and ragged clothes and broken pottery attracts a few curious spectators. Van Dyck Beown. and had some interesting experiences amon? the natives. In Cochin - China he spent several months. His time there was devoted to hunting for the peculiar deer indigenous to that country. He also visited the for ests and hunted for the extraordinarily beautiful leopards that abound there. In Cambodia he also hunted for this game and for many other varieties. Cambodia, be says, is a magnificent game country. It abounds in big game of nearly all Kinds, and is, according to Lieutenant Polo, the paradise of sportsmen. In Tonqum, where he met many friends from France, he also hunted for leopards, as well as tigers. It was with the tigers he had his most exciting experiences. The lieuten ant told about these yesterday. "I suppose it falls to tUe lot of few hunters," he said, "to have the rare sea son of enjoyment which I have for over a year past experienced. In nearly ail the countries I have visited— at least where I remained any length of time— l went on hunting forays. But it was in Cochin- China, Cambodia and Tonquin that I enjoyed myself the. mo3t. There the wild game abounds in profusion. "Cambodia, which is a very beautiful country, with flowing rivers and pic turesque scenery, is a great country for tigers; they are very big and powerful, though I cannot say their sKins are al ways the best. But when it comes to size, strength and agility they beat any tigers that I have ever seen. "In company with several friends of miue we went after these tigers. We were :ii-med mainly with fine express rifles. There were some other guns used that were supposed not to possess any particu lar merit. They were all, however, useful in these experiences; for they were thrilling, and required not only great vigilance at times, but a promptness of action only necessary in a wilderness where vicious animals abound. "To get these wild animals in Cambodia we organized a large party, being made up of a number of the most experienced tiger-hunters, and we had with us » re tinue of natives who beat gongs and rang bells and made all kinds of queer noises la order to drive the tigers from their lair. We invaded the forests, we did not seek for the tigers in the open, for in Cambodia they are most numerous in the thick woods. "When we had selected what we consid ered a rendezvous of the wild beasts, we surrounded it with the native gong-beaters and ball-ringers. We had previously taken the precaution to erect a high scaffold, or platform, and on this we, who proposed to shoot the tigers, took up our position. If it were at night, we had blazing fires to light the forests. "We were very successful in our endeav ors and before we had got through we suc ceeded in killing no less than seven tigers. Besides these we killed a large number of leopards. When the natives on the out skirts raised their cries and sounded their bells and gongs, the animals whatever they were fled toward us, and then all we bad to do was to exert our utmost skill in bringing them down, Borne of the ani mals, especially the tigers, were very fierce, and had we thrown ourselves need lessly before them we would have had some personal encounters that might have resulted in death. "As it was, nothing of this kind hap pened, but I may say that it is certainly a very vivid experience that one has, espe cially if it be at night, when among the soughing of the branches and per haps amid the occasional falling of rain you hear at first the weird sounds of the bells and gongs, the far-away shouts of the natives, and then presently see the dark forms and glistenihe eyes of the for est monsters bounding toward you. It is a time of feverish excitement and a time for being cool as well, for without being cool it is not to be expected that you cajjjf make a center shot. When you have sh6t you are pretty apt to know whether the wound you have made has been so savage as to cause fatality. The shrieks of these animals, combined with their rage, add a weird and fearful grandeur to the darkness of the forest. •"This kind of experience I had over and over again. It is something to be re membered, and somehow a man thinks more of himself from having gone through these experiences, but what I have told you is only a part of the experience of the tiger-hunter and leopard-killer in a coun try like Cambodia. When daylight ap pears, if you have been firing by aid of the sidelights of acampfire, you are en abled to pursue your game that has been wounded and fled for some distance away. This is done of course by following the trails of blood, and when you follow these trails, especially if you are proceeding through a thicket, you must be very alert. "Your gun must be in a position to be immediately used, for there is no animal that is more apt to be revengeful at such a time than these powerful animals of the cat kind that probably for hours have suffered from ugly gunshot wounds. If they are not seriously weakened they will fight, and they will fight with an alacrity and vigor that are simply astonishing to a man who has not had experiences with them. It is like a battle with a grizzly to come in contact with them. The wounded animals seem to make a more desperate fight than those who have not been wounded at all. They are endowed with phenomenal strength, and their remarka ble quickness make them frightful com batants at short ranee. "The only way to do, at the instant you catch sight of your wounded animal and. can see that he has any life remaining in him, is to pour lorth a volley of lead. If you don't do so. or if by chance you are so nervous as to miss your animal, he will fly to the fore and make it so interesting for you that you may never again participate in a tiger hunt. "LucKily for us we succeeded in killing all the wounded tigers as well as the leopards that we came upon. Their skins we took and preserved, and they will ever remain so long as they last with us as me mentos of our experiences in the Cambo dian woods. "But 1 have omitted to speak of some other kinds of pa me in whose quest we enjoyed ourselves also very much; the spice of danger, it is true, was gone in some instances, but skill was required nevertheless. 1 refer for one thing to the peculiar little brown d*er indigenous to the hills of fair Cambodia. All deer you know differ a little in different countries, and a man who will pick up a textbook on zoology will soon ascertain that in North America there are a great many different species of deer. The noble buck which Daniel Boone killed in the Kentucky for est is different from the deer that is to be found in the Sierra Nevadas. Lik ewise again, these are different from the deer in Southern Mexico and Central America. The Cambodia deer, with their Daautiful brown color, sometimes shading to a dap ple, and with their magnificent antlers, are a sight to see." Birds are able to work at a higher -flte than any other animal— that is, they can develop more energy in proportion to weight by working at a highor tempera ture, and this necessitates a warm coating of feathers as protection from the cold at mosphere.