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Sifts fop Christmas. "Munificence of giving may go hand in hand with practical economy" writes one authority, but at this season to be practi cally economical is no easy matter, for as even our most critical of foreign visitors admit Californians are lavishly generous, and of course at no season is this so notice able as at the approach of Cflristmas, but alas this year the hard times will prevent many of us from sending the usual dainty or helpful gift to much-loved friends; however, Marcella has no intention of be ing depressing, quite the contrary, she wants to make a few suggestion- that may prove useful to you all whether rich, poor or just moderately well off. To begin with remember that an appropriate eift, one that shows forethought in its selection, is far more prized than one bought in a business-like way to discharge some obligation. 1 was in one of our leading ivearny-street stores purchasing some chiffon not long ago when my attention was attracted by one of tlie most delightful grandfathers ( I am certain he was one). He was looking at some rarely beautiful collars of duchesse lnce. How carefully he adjusted his glasses and tried to discover which was quite the most exquisite of ali. He did not nave to give a tiioueht to the pric,e, but how he was trying to secure realiy the most lovely to be found, probably intending to send it in a Christmas- box for a bright-eyed granddaughter, who will prize that bit of lace long after the giver has passed out of her life. I wonder it she will ever know how carefully it was se lected. You see the season is making me sentimental, for. even if I do usually discuss ruffles and frills, etc., most of the time I am not so awfully matter of fact after all. I left grandfather surrounded by the lace collars, but before I leave this subject I wish to suggest that lace will always be found to be an acceptable gilt for women. A yard or so will make a fascinating cap, and a lace edge of mouchoir never comes amiss. Even just a scrap will edge the ends of a very tine bit of cambric, thus completing one of tne pretty ties now so fashionable. For voutnful relatives not blessed with overmuch wealth are to be seen the sheerest, most lace-like of etitchings, on which you can spend as much as you please, so varied are the qualities to be had, and the dress patterns now being ehown are to be had in almost every conceivable fabric, sensible, ser viceable woolen tweeds, the softest and roost artistic of silks, etc. An acquaint ance of mine, who has a small army of nieces, has purchased several bolts of the newest and loveliest of ribbons, and these she intends to divide in suitable lengths for the girlies. Who can doubt this aunt's remembrances will be appreciated? Oh, there are thousands of suggestions that come crowding into my mind. However, all my space must not be given to cloth ing, for some people greatly object to re ceiving anything of the sort, even when their circumstances are far from flourish ing, but just a word more on this topic. Cast a glance at the lairy-like slippers that were made for such just tootsies as M — 's, and the warm, softly lined, fur-edged sat'n ones that any invalid would be pleased with; and oh, do not forget that these days every one requires an umbrella. Did you ever see such an assortment as are on exhibition? And as for gloves, does any one ever have a sufficient number of pairs? You know how I love glass and rhina, and indeed lives there a real, flesh and blood woman who does not? So when in doubt take my advice and, even if the gift is a small one, reek a first-clitss store, and tuere you will see standing, al most side by side, the very exquisite little pieces of cut glass, and the great bowis, pitchers, plates and dishes that sparkle and gleam like huge diamonds, offering sore temptation to all who can understand their fascinating beauty; but the small olive dish, for not more than $3 or $4, is just as perfect in its way as the more am bitious ' articles. Numerous also are the choice bits of china — for exam pie, a dear J it tie cafe noir cup will cost no more than some of the cards you sent a year or so ago, and there are plaques and plates in be wildering numbers, all worthy to bear our greetings to even the most fastidious, but when purchasing for those who are commonly alluded to as hav ing everything you want a real novelty. One of the most beautiful which has appeared for many years is the Vollenden wear. Each piece bears the name of some well-known artist, and whether it is a gorgeous lamp, a superb vase, an in cense-burner, or a wide-mouthed rose bowl, each and every piece is a gem well worthy a place In my lady's cabinet among her most prized belonging? col lected from foreign pans, for Jet it be known far and wide that tbe Vollenden wear is an American production. It will never flood the country, so few are the pieces of each kind that are ever made, so in selecting such a present we can feel certain of never seeing a duplicate; in deed you will feel as though you wanted every piece you see, so varied are the de signs, so wonderful the coloring, so grace ful the shapes. Also be sure to look at the great collection of beer mugs; you can purchase one very reasonably, or by a lit tle heavier outlay, secure a very hand some one, such a sensible trine for a INydN^ & bachelor, who would also find a corner in his den for a royal Worcester tobacco jar or a corpulent-looking whisky jug. Jlbout Delft Wape. You can find almost every conceivable article in Delft this season, from a hair brush with a Delft back to a branching candelabrum. There are complete din ner sets of it, vases, bowls, in truth every thing you desire, including quaint plaques, on which are depicted scenes of New York taken 200 year? ago. Now, if you can tear yourselves away from these studies in blue and white give a glance at tbe pretty work that comes straight from "the land of the midnight sun" and you are quite sure to invest. Articles in silver were never *iore inter esting. Even the inexpensive bits arc rarely excelled in workmanship, and the quaint Danish, German and old bits ol English silver that reach us here arc worth}' of the enthusiastic admiration of the most critical. An ingenious contriv ance that would be appreciated by many a paterfamilias is a mutton- bone hoider, which will prevent such a roast from wickedly waltzing all over the dish. Al-o there is the carnation cup. Buy one and have the florist send it filled with say carnations or great California violets am! maidenhair ferns and the receiver will be certainly please-.!. I wish I could go on talking about the varied and beautiful articles, but time flies, and, children, I have not forgotten you, bless your dear little hearts. Chri>t mas belongs to you more than to any one else, but you want such a lot of toys and goodies that your mothers and aunties re quire no suggestions of any sort from me. You have told them exactly what you want, and they are certain to be busily employed purchasing everything, from a monkey running up a string to an elab orate dollhou-e, pair of ponies, etc. But before I tell about the irocks and other va rieties dear to the feminine world let me wish you all a merry Christmas and a happy New Year. Wopn on tlie Stage. Quite an event recently in Paiis was the representation of "Don Juan" at the Op era Comique, and very handsome were some of the toilets. "The beautiful mourning dress worn by Mile. Marcy in the part ol Donna Anna merits descrip tion. It was black velvet in tbe renais sance style, with large pattern; the skirt had a demi-train: at the sides puffs of black satin held in with diamonds, in front a black satin tablier covered with jet and diamonds; the low bodice was long waisted, and had a collar of white guipure worked with jet; the black velvet sleeves were slashed with satin, and the slashes bordered with jet. She wore a kind of Marie Stuart or renaissance head dress of black velvet and jet. At the cemetery scene a long black veil over this. Mile. Delna, as Zerlina, had a pretty Span ish peasant costume, a sky-blue short skirt, with flounces of mousseiinede soie, and as a bodice a charming little bolero or jacket of violet velvet embroidered with roses." "The Haven of Content," at the Garrick Theater, London, has been very popular, and Miss Granville, as leading lady, has taken much trouble to have her costumes beautiful, artistic and appropriate. Suc cess crowned her exertions, for the lead ers of fanhion are all commenting most favorably on her lovely toilets. One con sists of a bodice of rich white guipure over white satin; *be lovely crinkled sleeves were of smoky gray crepe de chine. The bodice of guipure was cut zouave fashion, permitting a single fold of the white satin to show above the soft gray belt. Round the neckband was twisted a ribbon of a pinkish mauvre color, and at the back of the neck over it fell three little frills of lace. Accompanying this creation was a hat of gray felt, the brim being bound with black velvet. The puffed crown was of violet velvet, great clusters of Russian violets nestled at one side and a smaller bunch nestled under the brim so as to rest becomingly in the hair. A London correspondent gives such a good descrip tion ot another. interesting frock that for your benefit I quote: "Quite of the style of to-morrow was a gown of fine wool poplin in black. The skirt was simple; it was the bodice that calied for observation. The latter, de vised upon horizontal lines, consisted, al ternately, of rows of narrow pipings and of black satin ribbon, which was attached on the upper side only of the material. The effect of thsse iines of ribbon falling away from the figure was to give slender ness to the waist, which a belt of black satin, adjusted with sparkling buttons, encircled. Four steel buttonn also ap peared to fasten the bodice at one side, and a double frill of black lace over white maue a pretty trimming to the overlap ping edge, as well as to the wristlets. The sleeves were noteworthy for the new means of giving width to the shoulders. This result was attained by a serried row oi tucks which turned upward and almost, met at the points of a collar, composed of cordings and black satin ribbon in the same style as the rest of the bodice. A black straw bat which > accompanied this smart gown had a crown of black velvet, and again the favorite trimming of vio THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 20, 1896. let. Miss Granville repeated the trans verse style of trimming when she donned a blouse of black tucked chiffon, which she wore with a black skirt and a satin belt buttoned with diamonds. "We gained the assurance that in tbe evening the arms may fitly be veiled from a sight of the long, diaphanous chiffon sleeves which Miss Granville wore in combination with a low-necked black satin gown. A hanging bertha of cut jet formed the handsome trimming to this dress; a diamond comb was introduced above the hair-knot. "Miss Haidee Wright, as a simple Eng lish heroine, wore a most becoming even ing gown of moonlight blue satin with a bodice and full elbow sleeves of pleated white silk gauze. A scarf of frilled white chiffon accompanied this pretty costume s an occasional shoulder-wrap." Ideas Fpom Papis. As I expected braiding of all kinds has been so overdone that in Paris the smartly dressed women have wisely re turned to their far more becoming trim mings cf velvet and fur, so again I say do not tolerate machine braiding and avoid braiding altogether if you would keep well in advance of the fashion. However, we should remember that braiding held its own all last winter, so of course it could not huve been expected to have been stylish a second winter. That would have sent Dame Fashion off into a tantrum. Last week I saw a white-haired old lady wearing the loveliest ruche of black chiffon, which looked as though quail feathers had oeen used to edge it. How I wonder where it came from. 1 have not seen -uch another anywhere. But you want news about some beautiful blouses. Across the pond corduroy velveteen is en joying a considerable popularity, and very i effective wjre two blouses sent out by a good bouse very recently. One was of a tomato red and the other of a gorgeous green; both of these were worn with turn down collars and cuffs. A green plaid glace waist and one of geranium-colored bengaline were both cut like shirt, waists. From the same source, much admired, was a black grenadine with a chine flower upon it. Bands of green miroir velvet extend from the shoulder to below the waist, turn way back with jewel em embroidered revers; small frills of black chiffon outline the decolletage. An evening blouse I like is composed of alternate frills of chiffon and fine-pointed embroidery. Round the armholes is a double bow of apricot watered ribbon, and the ruched sleeves of chiffon reach the elbows. Equally attractive is one of an infinitesimaily striped green and black velvet. This is cut in loose bolero form, edged with mink, and shows an nnder bodice of a lighter grpen chine silk, with a draped band of the velvet around the waist. A fichu edged with ruffles bordered with very narrow black velvet assists ir. adorning. Yet another, which has an under bodice and sleeves formed of bouil lonnes of white striped with black velvet ribbons; pale mauvre glace forms the epaulettes and fichu. Quite lovely is a bodice of ivory tinted Irish lace mounted on chiffon, belted and buttoned with tur quoises. Marcella. Fashions fop Men. When the Prince of Wales appeared in a double-breasted blue reefer (or three seamer) recently at an afternoon function the tailors were filled with consternation, for it is "a compromise between the frock and the lounge. Home declare that ere long this garment will be worn with a top hat, as it has a more dressy effect than the regulation aack coat." In New York some of the best tailors are making square -cornered, double-breasted "jack ets" of either a black or bine cheviot, or an unfinished worsted. There are two pockets, and the jacket fits loosely and extends over the hips. It is worn but toned. Broadcloth and vacuna are entirely out of date for evening dress suits, as is also a species of diagonal much used some three years ago. The cloth now employed is known as dresscloth, or a diagonal neither too fine nor too coarse. When a cloth waist coat is worn it is single - breasted, with three buttons; if it has a U-snaped collar it must be of the same fabric as the rest of the suit; however, the most fashionable waistcoat is of white duck or linen, is double-breasted, has three buttons and a narrow collar. A Tuxedo is never worn with a white waistcoat, neither is a white lawn tie. A black satin tie is correct if not in mourning, but nnder such circum stances black corded silk is substituted. A reader asks a 'New York authority whether it would be correct for nim to wear either an opera or silk hat with a dinner coat. He is correctly informed that "the dinner coat is semi-formal evening dress and as such requires the headgear used on ordinary .or semi-formal occasions. A short coat and a tall hat are elements which do not agree. The gist of these remarks is that neither a tall nor an opera hat should be worn with dinner coat The proper hat is a derby or a Homburg; black for winter and a straw in summer." A youth of 18 may wear an evening coat or a Tuxedo, provided he observes strictly as to the waistcoats and ties provided for each garment The round-shaped buttoned patent ieather boot is stylish for walking; with lounge suits are worn round-toed black leather boots. Low quarters or patent leather pumps, are worn with evening dress. Buttons are very popular at present. Russet boots are now only worn on rainy days for golf ing or tramping around the country. Spats are never worn with russet boots. The Gost of a Duke. Fifteen millions is tbe price of a real first-class Duke. At least, that is what tbe New York World says W. K. Vanderbilt paiu for the honor of allying iiis family name with that of the ancient house of Marlborough. This statement, says the World, is made on the unquestionable au thority of an English gentleman visiting in Washington, who has been in a posi tion to know all the facts. His account is circumstantial and undoubtedly correct. The terms of the settlement were $10, 000,000 — or, to speak with absolute accu racy, the income of $10,000,000— 0n Mr. Vanderbilt's daughter during her lifetime, and $5,000,000 on the Duke. If children are born they will inherit the mother's portion at her death. If the marriage shall be without issue this $10,000,000 will revert on the death of the Duchess. But the Duke's $5,000,000 is to be bis in any event. The settlement was not made in cash but in investments for the benefit of the Duke and Duchess. These invest ments are principally in the stocks and bonds of the Lake Shore and other Van derbilt railroads. The Empress of Japan and her ladies have taken to the bicycle and use a maze of walks made on purpose for them in the Bacluded part of the imperial gardens. FROM GREATER NEW YORK /\ Budget of Interesting J^leWs and Qossip About the California Colony in the Eastern Metropolis. NEW YORK, N. V., Dec 14.— Tbe people need a rest! A rest from the hustle and bustle and worry of these modern days. A rest from dissembling, a rest from sensationalism. Our true expression is being forever lost under the grinding mask we feel com pelled to constantly wear. We have be come so artificial ourselves that we look on everything, everybody, and even life itself, with eyes of distrust, with hearts steeled against the outward showing, be it grief or joy, misery or prosperity. We live on artificial foods, artificial heat, artificial air. Oar mode of dressing, wear ing jewelry, greeting strangers and gov erning our children is becoming more artificial with each succeeding generation. So it is, so it will be until matter? reach such an extreme that the limp and emaci ated public will cry a halt, and then the great rest cure will begin. Santa Claus is almost at our gates. Dear old rosy-cheeked, jolly-eyed, frosty-haired Santa Claus! He can only hoodwink youngsters under six years of age these days. The other afternoon a pretty, dark haired young kit of only six autumns, said in a very earnest little way, and a hint of disappointment in her »oice, "You see, I know there is no Aal Santa Claus. I wish there was one, 'cause it 's such good fun to be 'sprlsed on Christmas morning." Then with a confidential whisper, "I'm not going to tell EJdie or Alfred 'bout it, 'cause they think Santa Claus comes down the chimney; they're younger 'an me. and don't know that he doesn't." Poor iittle tot, already she has learned the first lesson in deception. Where are the Californians? The last week has been unusually dull in tbe Cali fornia colony. There have been few ar rivals, and those who have been in the city for weeks are busy shopping for the holidays or attending to business matters of importance. • Among the early arrivals of the week were Mrs. Cameron C. Thorne and Miss Thorne of Los Angeles. They engaged rooms at the Holland, and will hear the Christmas chimes in New York. A. tfowden of San Francisco arrived from a trip abroad last Sunday. He anti cipates being at home for the holidays. J. W. Brozel!, formerly of the San Francisco Stock Exchange, has been a guest at the Metropolitan during the past week. He will start homeward on Tues day. Mr. Brozeil is enthusiastic over the future of the new mining fields in South ern California and he has interested a number of Eastern magnates in a bg minine scheme which wili be heard of ere long. California is returning to the good old boom days, evidently, for surely there are many great things being predicted and scores of Easterners with money are planning Western trips and Western in vestments. Mingling with the crowd at the Profes sional Woman's League Bazaar last even ing, I met John T. Malone, the lawyer actor and writer of San Jose. Mr. Malone has grown quite gray daring the past few years, but it is becoming to his strong, handsome face. He is really a thorough New Yorker now, though he speaks with the same clannish spirit of every true Cali fornian. M.\ Malonn has virtually left the stage and has returned to the old love of his youth, the practice of the law. He was admitted to the New York bar last Jane. In connection with bis practice he nas been busily encaged in writing and preparing matter for Charles Dudley War ner's new books, "The World's Best Lit erature." Misa Geraldine Malone, his lovely young daughter, is here with him. R. P. Carter of Santa Monica has re turnea from a long and delightful visit with relatives in England. Charles F. and Ross B. Hoffmann are guests at the Holland. There is a heap of injustice and miser able rubbish in some people's lives, and it keeps them and their few friends squaring accounts and clearing away the debris of misfortune which always threatens to crush out their existence. Poor little Lee Bascom has had a thorny little path to follow, and though she has stanch friends to encourage her at times, her gifted soul suffers untold agony through the injustice and ignorance with which she is fated to come into contact After writing a number of very worthy little volumes and having had her play, "The Bowery Girl," accepted and pro duced, she finds that, in the very flush of success, her contract with the mana?ers who have just put her play on is so flimsy and unstable that her income from it is virtually cut off and reduced to nothing ness. Miss Bascom is in very ill health, and this new blow to her ambitions has well nigh prostrated her. She could re sort to the courts, but, like all talented ones, she shrinks from the unsavory pub licity of such a move. Her friends in the West will watch with intense interest the outcome of it all. W. C. Hunter has just returned from Spain and foreign lands in excellent health and spirit He will not remain long in Gotham, but will hasten down to the Argentine Republic, where he will make a thorough investigation of mining properties there. He expects to be in Cal ifornia before many months. The news of the sad and tragic death of Mrs. Sarah B. Cooper and her demented daughter was a great shock to the colony here. Expressions of grief and sincere regret have been many. J. C. Ainsley of San Jose is at the Broad way Central for a few days. Mile. Yvette Guilbert sailed into town this weeK with a half-dozen trunks filled with decollete gowns, long ploves and other pretty things. Besides Yvette has a lot of naughty, naughty, naughty carol-, which she will shrilly pour into our listen ing ears. Yvette will not take us in, as she did last year; we know a thing or three now, and— well, Yvette can't teaci us French this time, we have heard a few others since her last warblings here. "Inspiration depend? on atmosphere, nothins more," said John P.iilip Sousa the other evenine when speaking of his compositions." He declares that inspira tion cannot always be born with tbe thought, especially when composing music. The click of a telegraph-machine will perhaps introduce a melody into the brain which can be at once transmitted to paper. The idea is new in many re snects. Mr. and Mrs Sousa went over to Europe last August to remain four or five months, but the sudden death of David Blakeiy. Mr. Sousa's manager, recalled him to this country at once, and cut short jtkw to- d at: HOLIDAY GIFTS FOR EVERYBODY, BOTH YOUNG and OLD. Don't Fail to Visit Our Toy Department. IMMENSE ASSORTMENT OF TOYS, DOLLS, GAMES, WAGONS, AND VELOCiPEDES. Note— Goods delivered free to Alameda. Antioch, Berkeley, Blithedale, K<-iv»<jere, hen ca, Km t- vau\ (>o'rtf ii (i..:e. Haywards, L.orln. Melrose, Mill i Valley, Napa, Oakland, I *v uma. Sausalito. San ' Rafael, -a Atuw m.', San Lorenzo, San Leandro, i Stockton, Tiburon, Temescai and Vallejo. 813-83) MARKET ST GENUINE ROXBURY BRUSSELS CARPET, 75G A YARD, SEWED AND LAID. SHIREK &TSHIREK, 747 Market Street, Tel. 5391. Opp. Grant Aye. I KILL TWO BIRDS WITH ONE STONE! ruur^PD ng your CHRISTMAS PRESENT buy som.thlng your WIFE, DAUGHTER or REALLY NEEDS and which you will eventually r\f. ye V? ouy. Kindly pay us a visit ant* we will assist you in finding some- thing: that will ba JUST THE THING. We Ca t p'e at aVQ * fSW ' eft ° f those LADIES' RAINCOATS with JO 35 LADIES' CORDUROY WAISTS, dressmaker made and lined <£ A 7C throughout, regularly $6, now at.:.................................... *p*r. I O LADIES'; KERSEY JACKETS, silk lined, velvet on collar, and QUO ntZ , never sold less than $15, now at .................................... 4>IU.ZO 3/4M*Mf£TSK a European visit which had been full of delightful experiences. He expects to reach California some time in February. Lucky California! Among the late arrivals this week were: W. R. Moore, San Francisco; H. G. Otis r Los Ange.es; G. W. Percy. San Fran- cuco; A. H. Hoadley, San Francisto; F. » H. Ames, San Francisco: A. Mos?. San ' Francisco; Mr?. J. Gray, San Francisco; , R. P. Carter, San Franciycj; M. Grant Jr., San Diego; F. Counell. San Francisco; F. M. Migs, San Francisco; H. McKee, Los Angeles; Mrs. William Lmyne. San Fran cisco. Trella Foltz Toland. 34 Paric row. • -NEW ■ TO-DAY. _.;.' Sensible Xmas Gifts. A Set of Dishes— that's a sensible thing to invest in at Christmas time— •jives pleasure to every member of the family. ; Splendid ' Sets at 51 0.50, $13.50 and $19.00. . >-. . An Artistic Lamp and ?/-^&* 2£>! Globe — fine designs TK<^V > $6.50. An Onyx Table, a pretty piece of Rich Cut Glass or Dainty China, a Handsome Vase or Figure, or— well, come and look around. ofsst jEi'xrjESJsrT.NGrta. THAT BIG CHINA STORE \ A Quarter of a Block Below Shrem'ui i WANQENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. a 528 and 530 Market St., * 27 and 29 Sutter St., JiKLOW MONTUOMBRT, USEFUL HOLIDAY GIFTS FOR LADIES AND MISSES. One of Our Celebrated Corsets anil Waists The Keignins Fashionable LOUIS XV PARISIAN CORSET and THE OL6A CORSET. ♦ CAUTION— no agencies or branch store*, oar Corsets can be purchased only at our estab- lishment. - Mail Orders receive prompt attention. Illustrated Catalogue mailed free. 43" Parcels delivered free to Oakland, Alameda and .Berkeley. Our Store Open Evenings- until' Jan. 1. HAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. 3?"n.S3XT3D cfe SOW, 742-744 Market st. and 10-12 Grant aye. ~~~ —i i AD. KOCOUR, FASHIONABLE FURRIER. Formerly cutter with Kevilion Freres, Parts, London and New York. SV2 Kearuy Street, Upstairs— Opposite Chronicle. K^fcisflr^iPsS The moBt effic»cions of Skim rl^Wi Foods »ad Tissue Bnlldtt* is tee- K^Sn I*l -f-i^BwM omm " by phr«lclins for in KHpi •*& '^ fSSw P uril 7 «nd efficacy. It remoicf vis.i s " JW'tß freckles and tan, prpventj wrinkles !>Bb«. *^* M&i&k * ndrenderttll * skin "*"• smooth, K3§Hhwe' > 'TliS!*! «'«»•'■ »nd white. It cares chapped Ss^F'-iFf 'SeH hands, chapped lips, and many »k!n "S""\ v -: NZE di«ea-e». Price 50 cents. Sold by ** "■ all Druggist*. And at PACIFIC COAST AGENCY. Room 29, Donohoe Building; 1170 Market St., S. F. 4l mm ML SYSTEM. [I ' /V^Tf- / 1* The only one by which Vp**—^ y\ you can make a garment YY*f TT! D^ without trying on. 2rn2le§i free TESTS. lE™ 1231 MARKET ST.