The San Francisco call. [volume], June 13, 1897, Page 28, Image 28

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
28
FASHIONS FADS
AND FANCIES.
How dainty and lovely are many of the
toilets now bein^ worn by fashion's
leaders at our principal summer resorts,
and very great is the admiration ex
pressed for the skill exhibited by the
dressmakers in America, who nowadays
originate numerous fetching models, well
worthy of some of the best-known Parisian
houses.
One young bride wore at a recent
luncheon a solt gray woolen grenadine,
round the bottom of which were three
narrow frills of yellow surah. It was
made over a separate skirt of surah on
which were two inside lace-edged ruffles.
The slightly pouched bodice folded back
ward with revers. and these formed part
of the collar, which was cut in a modified
empire style. The sleeves had puffs and
ruffles.
Gray, by the by, daily increases in
popularity, and is seen frequently in com
bination with white or canary color, but
just exactly the right shade must be used
with the yellow or the results will be
mcst disastrous. These colors were used
together several seasons ago with such ex
cellent results that we may this year anti
cipate some truly ravishing effects.
Fop a Middle-Jlged Gentle
woman.
You can realize the charms of a dress
Having a bodice of a soft black silk, which
feels like thin chatnoise leather. Tnis is
beaded (by band) all over with tine jet.
To obtain the necessary straight lines in
place,? part cf tbe jet is attached to cords,
to that the design can be made becoming
to stout and slender figures alike.
The basque is cut into two shaped tabs
at the sides, rich jet ornaments and
fringe being attached to them. The soft
silk is used for epaulettes, being nan I
somely embroidered on the edge. lilack
ribbon velvet is arranged so as to narrow
to a long deep point in front of the bodice
to the bottom of the vest, and is then car
ried through embroidered slashes in the
epaulettes, and tied in bows and ends
which fall over tne sleeves. A similar
bow appears at the back of the basque.
The sleeves may be of rucheJ silk or
chiffon. The vest may be varied, tut one
of white or ecru is in all cases most be
coming. One well liked ia of ecru chiffon
over white satin, a fringe of jet failing
over it gracefully. The skirt is of the
black chanioife silk.
It mnv be made perfectly plain or with
five ruffles, narrow ones, of cour.se, tnat ex
tend higher up in the back than in front.
They may be of the silk, or if ch:ffon is
usel for the sleeves it would look well on
the s~irt. At all events the tirst ruffle
should have a heading of black ye.yet rib
bon. Violet silk makes a good lining that
Trill not readi y soil, and a bunch of v:olets
is usually bccorain».
A mcst distinguished-looking matron
lately received many glances of approval
when arra7eU in a princess gown of black
chiffon. It is maae over white silk, the
belt of which is of white lace run with sil
ver threads. The skirt is accordion pleated
and run around the bottom with about fif
teen narrow threads of silver. From the
narrow belt of while lace extend, b ith up
ward and downward, points of the same
lace. The sleeves are likewise adorned
with it.
A young pirl who would have made her
debut last winter had she not gone into
mourning lias an exquisite grenadine
sprayed with violets, which she wears
qver a pale vioiet slip. Her neck and
waistband are of violet velvet which is
softly wrinkled. It is a youthful frock on
which are innumerabla tiny lace-edgeJ
n;rfies, which weil su.t her very slender
figure.
Poplin
Is again being employed by several of the
beat houses. The quality costing $3 per
yard is good and wears excellently well.
A chic young belle lately appeared in a
navy blue poplin. The lower part of the
skirt was handsomely braiaed. Quite
novel was the introduction of two large
imitation pocKets on the hips. Like the
skirt, they were braided with black silk
braid. The bolero bodice was braided
with black and gold and opened over a
beige moire waisicoat, which had light
blue velvet revers. Long sleeves edged
with Vaienciennes lace extended over the
hands, and the Deige gloves were stitched
with black.
Plaid Silks.
Tho*e having an infinitesimal check are
quite the thing for skins that are trimmed
with black ribbon velvet ; these usually take
a deep point toward the knee in front, be
ing raised considerably hieher round the
back portion of the skirt. With one such
EkTt was a bodice of bJack glace silk, it
overhung a belt with a shoit barque,
the revers turned back, thus revcaiing
a vest composed of innumerable tiny
frills of creamy Valenciennes lacp. Some
of the bodices made in this style, with
revers and basques, have modified Medici
collars, but a bow of tulle or lace is al
ways worn at the throat. All such ar
rangements of tulle are extremely becom
ing, but exceedingly warm — lose
their freshness after being worn twice,
so that, all things considered, the
tulle bow tied round the neck insido the
high collarat the back is more serviceable ;
however, this fad can only be indulged in
by women with long and slender throats.
Jl Casfomepe Costume
Lately noted, also in Paris, was truly
admirable, being of Panne-colored cash
mere, and, says a correspondent, "the
skirt was cleverly arranged to be quite
piain and flat around the hip*, and yet to
fall in graceful pleats and folds to the
feet. Two or three rows of silk the
same color, with bars of the same cross
ing at intervals, relieved the plahmesa of
the skirt; the blouse bodice was made
with a small, full basque, attactied to a
band that could bo removed at will. It
etrucK me as a very good idea. The front
was embellished with chiffon, edged with
Valenciennes of a yellowish tint. The
• leeves were slightly bouffant at the top,
and bad galon on the lower part. The
underskirt was silk."
Likewise eice lent was an absolutely sim
ple c!oth costume made with a weli-hung
plain skirt line 1 with a soft, rich siik of a
goiden bue. The jacket witn short batque
had a high open collar at the back, a la
Medici, which gradually decreased in size
and s oped into tbe open front, which did
cot close, being open about three inches,
with small straps across, fastening on
either side with very small square gold
buttons; its front and the high collar was
lined with chine s.lk. Just at the top
the sleeves were rather wide, the rest of
them litted closely. A thread-like cord of
gold outlined the revers, the collar and
cuffs.
Chit-chat
Cas'eroles are generally popular, espe
cially the pretty fireproof ones which have
silver wire mountings. Much liked like
wise are the bowls and ju.'s of coalpert
china obtainable in either pure wnite or a
delicate shade of apple-green mounted in
gold or silver; the jugs are finished with
lids swung on pivots let into the glass or
china, which cannot come unshipped. For
a man who smokes, the expanding cigar
box which will hold any : zed box of any
well-known brand is acceptable.
Housekeepers will be glad to hear of a
n«sw leather-reviver, which will improve
chair seats, bags. etc. O' course, it will
not restore leather if the turface haa been
rubbed, but in ordinary cases it renews
the gloss and freshness in an extraordi
nary manner.
Selvyt is being used instead of chamois
leather very extensively, as it polishes
glass, silver and furniture; besides, it is
being used as "gripping" for the handles
of golf clubs, bats, racquets and in many
other ways,
Before silver is cleaned it should always
be thoroughly washed with good soat>
used with boiling water. Then it shouM
be thoroughly dried, after which the
paste or rouge can be applied. After it
THE NEW "TRANSFORMED" COIFFURE.
This new movable strip fringe is a boon to wheelwomen and dwellers by the
sea. It is an English idea not yet seen her?. It is fixed to a single strand easily
concealed amon^ the front locks and does not heat tne head.
Jias dried ail the powder must be removed
with a good firm silver brush an i lastly
each article thoroughly pol.shed with a
chamois leather or selvyt cloth. Even
when the silver is daily washed with care
thi3 process should be gone through with
every two weeks if the plate is to be kept
in any sort oi condition.
Gloves.
Gloves are always an interesting topic
to write about, and for years Queen Vic
toria has been wearing eight-button
leneth black suede mou quetaire and the
same in kid. The Princttt of Wales is In
the habt of ordering fo" evening wear
twelve-butt(») mousquctaire in loth suede
or kid. These are eiMier pale gray or
white, ana are usually stitched with nar
row black. During the daytime she pre
fers pale tan or a delicate shade ol mouse
gray. The latest Kids for evening wear
have glove-fitting lace sleeve that fasten
just above the elbow with a ribbon.
Very fashionable are tans, ana
blacK, made of beautifully fine and elastic
kid, stitched with mixed back and white.
Some of the finest kid known to ths most
exclusive trade comes in shades of deli
cate drab and the stitching is seif-colorei.
For cycling are some white goves with
lambsKin backs and canvas palms and
fingers; also in tan doeskin with tan
colored silk canvas. This canvas is cool,
but has a fine fancy mesh.
A useful and pretty tailor gown worn by
a stylish woman is built of dove-gray
cloth. With it is worn a chic bolero com
roied of black velvet edged with white
cloth handsomely braided by hand with a
gray silk cord. A iar^e collar, square of
cut, is of white doth embroidered with the
gray cord. I; has the appearanc* of being
made over a wider collar o! black velvet.
Xhe cuffs and pocknts carry out ih* same
idea. The draped belt is of black velvet.
A lace cravat has its endß carried under
the flaps of the collar. This toilet can
only be worn successfully by an extremely
tall and very slender woman.
The very latest capes are being made of
gathered chine glace silk in a many- tinted
tartan. One such was edged with fawn
cloth, which turr.e 1 up quaintly as a hood,
with long ends in front that were lined
with the silk. A ruche of silk and lace
finishes the neck.
A fetching litt'e coat is composed of
green glace closely covered with stripes of
very narrow black ribbon velvet. Tne
collar of this can be worn turn np or
down, according to the wearer's fancy.
The toque is flourishing exceedingly
and may ba had in a variety of straws in
green, in mauve, in red, otc, but tbe
straw is always crumpled. For special
occasions have the black straw toques
been created. These are beaded and
spangled in a heavy design, and trimmed
with either a whi'.e feather, standing
boldly upright in the form of an aigrette,
or with a batch of green wats ttptwd with
black, tied with a knot of colored velvet.
For the Auteuil races the milliners
are making toques of frosted tulle with
great sprays of black and white osprey.
The feathers are called "Jet d'eae."
If ARCELLA.
New York Notes.
The people who think there is nothing
new uuuer the sunshou.'d look at the very
THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JUNE 13, 1807.
latest skirr. It ii a wonder and a glory at
the same time, especially for the tall, slen
der women, for it is flounced from top to
bottom — nothing but flounces. It is made
in blnck glace silk — tbe whole thing.
The dressmaker whom I talced to
| about it said, however, that if the greatest
; care was not takon when cutting the»e
' flounces the skirt would be utterly ruined.
: One little »lio of the shears and say good
by to the skirt. From the foot to tbe belt
of the skin each flounce is shaped with
out any fullness and is cut on the cross.
j The flounces are piped with white and
I edged with lace. Really, though, the new
; skirt is pretty enough. In fact, it may be
j called elegant without exaggeration.
I am told that the early Victorian period
is responsible for this newest creation and
that the graiule dames of that period used
! to wear very nearly the same sort of skirt.
The more I investigate the que«tion, how
ever, ttie more I learn that this is not
I true. There may have been an occasional
i skirt of this sort, but it was never general.
We may be imitative, but in this one in
! stance what we have imitated is some
thing that was always exceedingly fash
ionable although very rare.
The woman who numbers among her
possessions some rare old lace is fortunate
indeed. To be sure that is one of the few
things from whose value time does not
detract and which is always desirable.
I', it this particular summer lace is used so
universal!/ that it is more valuable than
ever. Besides the usual frilling and flounces
and edgings and inserting^ we are wear
ing boleros of lac, even on cotton
gowns, wnile a summer silk can hardly be
said to be complete without one. And
now the very latest thing is to have en
tire bodices mede of this dainty fabric.
They are usually ecru in color, and are
made In the favorite pouch fashion, fas
tening at the side. Tiiey have simply a
high band and ruilled sleeves. These are
made to wear over detached bodices of
any desired color, and are thus as econom
ical as they are pretty, which is saying a
great deal.
The demand for printed silk muslin of
a filmy texture is hardly equal to the sup
ply. It comes in so many beautiful col
ors and falls in such soft and becoming
folds thnt it is extremely popular for
dressy costumes. Nothing coula be more
suitable for the warm, balmy days, the
soft green tones being especially attractive
and cool-looking.
Green and white are greatly in favor,
and I saw one such combination that was
really delightful The gown itself was of
while canv.iH, trimmed with the lightest
green, inch-wide gauze ribbon, with a
satin edge. This was applied in the lorm
of braiding to the skirt in a very intricate
pattern and also on the sleeves and the
iront of the bodice. The epaulettes form
long cape-like trimmings above the arms
and the sleeves fall over the hand. The
effect of tne whole was very •atisfactory.
Here is an appropriate costume for
those of us who sometimes go to the races.
The material is the ever-popular foulard
in a soft, pearl gray. The skirt in of the
fashionable sun - ray pleated variety,
edged with a ruche of black s>ilk muslin
inp.de very full, and striped down tue
sides with treble rows of heavy black lace
insertion, connected together (or several
inches at the top, so as to well mold the
hips. The blouse and sleeves are both
tucked, and trimmed with insertions of
tne black lace to correspond witn that on
the skirt. Tne square flit epaulettes are
of silver guipure scalloped with tiny
pleatings of black lace, the bolt and
straight col ar being also of the guipure.
The hat to wear with tnis gown i% ol line
gray straw with beret crumpled crown, set
oTf with bows and draperies in penrl gray
chiffon. It has an aigrette of black os
trich tips at the side. The parasol is of
Pekia silk, edged with a silk muslin
flounce.
Accordion pleating is very much in
favor, and appears in almost endless
variety in the matter of the arrangement
!of the pleats. Perhaps the most fashion
! able at present Is the sun-ray kilt-pleated
[ skirt, otherwise known as plisse soleil,
| bet this is only one of many. One of the
j newest styles is the crosa-way kilting,
! especially suitable for sleeves and house
J gowns. T:.en there are strioes formed of
some dozen close-set, killings, with an
inch of plain material above, while others
form box p eais broken at intervals by
strips of the same material. Another
style falls in waved lines which closely re
semble cordincs and minute undine war
injrs in corded stripes, closely set together
either in lines or Vandykes.
Some of the ordinary kiltmgs are
broken by festooned scallops of the ma
terial and give ihs aspscr of a single or
doubls row of flouncing. Fashionable
capes are much trimmed with kilt pleated
lisse, and some, for evening and carriage
wear, are covered with lace, kilted, and in
Jts turn overlaid with lace flouncing*.
Very many of the latest blouses are either
tucked or kilted, some suggestion of this
style appearing on the sleeves if not else
where. Even the parasols, which this
year are so much trimmed as to be actu
ally fussy, are covere I with accordion
pleating and have frillings at the edge of
lace and silk. The latest thing in handles
lor these additions to the toilet is the
semblance of a horse-chestnut bursting
from its prickly sheath.
We are going to wear barege again, and
it is really a very desirable material in
many ways, although the sort we used to
have was noted for its unpleasant ten
dency to split horizontally on the very
slightest provocation, or none at all. Tne
modern variety, however, is better
woven and many of the newest dresses
are being made of it. The most fashion
able color in which the new barege is
seen is that very lightest shade of pearl
gruy of which our grandmothers were so
fond and which has not been in favor for
a very long time.
A particularly fetching costume is made
of green and white foulard, with a plain
skirt, displaying a gathered flounce piped
and set into Vandykes. The bodice
which is, perhaps, its most charming
feature, has a bolero of plain green satin,
cut into points across the bust and traced
with ecru embroidery threadel with gold.
The loose fronts of the foulard are tied
with careless ends to show a vest of white
chiffon frilled down one side with lace.
The sleeves are quaintly suggestive of the
Tudor period, with very snort puffs at the
top and elbow made of the foulard, plain
satin being rucked between these. The
hat that is to be the finishing touch to
this dainty gown is of green straw, its
brim trimmed with Iceland poppies in
shaded pink. There is • white osprey at
(he back with a lace bow outstretched be
low it.
A rather striking peculiarity of thtfsea
son is the very general use of«vivid red,
both for day and eveninz wear. It !•*
especially noticed in bats of the "picture"
variety, which are %een everywhere, even
on ycuns girla. barely out of school. These
hats are mostly of poppy-red straw,
trimmed with the same shade sometimes,
though rarely, relieved by a touch of
black. They are rather daring, but quite
effective with fresh young faces.
Canvas is to be as popular with the
fashionable woman this year as it is with
the masters of sailing vessels. The dress
goods dealers and the dressmakers say it
will be worn as widely as duck. The ma
terials are as varied as the prisms in a
kaleidoscope. There is the wide mesh,
the narrow mesh, cobweb grounds, tiny
holes arranged to form a square pattern,
with others like openwork stockings.
These all show the lining through, for
nearly all canvases are lined with bright
silk, shot or plain, and look remarkably
well made up. White is used as a lining
for buck canvas, which in the fancy for
black and white costumes that now pre
vail would prove a very useful gown for
spring wear.
Corded crenadine is also worth mention,
the thick black cords of which are divided
by narrow cords in brilliant colors, cense,
violet, green, orange or blue, and also
with while cords only. Grenadines are
generally in favor, the more expensive
kinds being very artistic in design and
unusually attractive. One of the new
fancy grenadines has a black ground
with a large arabesque ali-over pattern in
white threads which is most effective and
also in harmony with the blaofc and white
idea so much in vogue.
Tbe color combinations of the moment
are new and startling, the brightest of
reds with mauve, violet and \ urple, a
vivid green being constantly added. Ce
rise, a very bright shade, is aimost as much
in favor as Parma violet, *n 1 the two are
frequently blended. Blue and green,
though by no means a new color arrange
ment, is still much worn. Plaids are very
iashionable, blue-i and greens uredomi
nating. Tney make, in silk, admirable
blouses, as do tii- black-and-white plaids.
These worn with black canvas, summer
i-erge or grenadine skirts are> in excellent
ta«te.
If it be true that nothing under tl c sun
is new, at leastsomeof the new hats would
seem to refute Hint statement, for it seems
that no shape could be too high, or too
wide, or too eccentric to be worn this year.
There is a wide, coarse straw greatly
affected which is bent into all sorts ol cu
rions twists and pleats and trimmed in
the most wonderful, not to say extrava
gant, manner. Straws of the moat brill
liant colors will be most popular — pink,
blue, red, green, yellow, mauve, and of. en
a combination of two or more of these in
one ha:, the crown and brim being of quite
different straws.
The "picture" hats are still popular,
and will be much worn this season.
Drawn black lace and chiffon bats are in
favor, as are alto the accordion-kilted
grenadine or crinoline brims, which can
be made becoming to almost any style of
face. This will certainly be a season of
flowers, and among the novelties may be
found many varieties of wild flowers. If
you wish to be Parisian and quite up to
date choose a roadside or a hedgerow fa
vorite for the adornment of your hat.
The convolvuh and the little blossom of
the dead y nightshade are especially new
ami quite original.
Belts of the Swiss form accompany
many of the boleros, and are made of lace
braid united by silk stitching. But there
arc- n good many other kinds, and none
are more remarkable than these made m
pJa ds, somi thirty different kinds being
employed for the purpose. These are
made of a sort of strong Petersham and
are fastened either with a round silver
buckle having a cairngorm in tho center,
or with a silver wire buckle which hooks
on to three distinct balls, down the center
of the front. We :ire to wear colored belts
of kid as well as white ones, which indeed
are the most in favor, and also a number
of belts prepared of Petersham. with bands
of kid stitched down the center.
Good A inurican Manner*.
It was in the elevator of the Holel Con
tinental in Pjhs — one of those slow-going
machines in which this noted hotel de
light*. Four or rive persons were in the
car besides the operator, who had waxed
fat in hit laborious occupation ot pulling
on a rope. One of the company wai fresh
Irom the Ecole dcs Beaux An, where, in
deed, his whole time was employed when
not in i he necessary jslhx tti>n
at Versailles, in the Boi«, at the cafe or in
other restfnl places of the world's capital.
His companion was not ol this descrip
tion. Among the others were a lady and
gentleman, to the former ol whom the
two Americans had removed their hats.
But tbe nentleman with her made no mo
tion to remove his, but retarded the com
pany with a studied indifference.
"Oh," said one of the Americans, *'it
does not appear to be nec^saary to re
move one's ikat here," and thereupon
clapped his on his head. Tue lady and
gentleman getting out at the next floor,
the guard politely informed the re
mainder r.f the company that they were
the Grand Duke md Grand Duchess of
Mecklenburg-Scuwerin, the latter being
own sister to the then imperial autocrat of
all the Russias, as I believe it was stated.—
Architecture and Building.
MINES
& MINERS
During the week P. K. Thornton, vice-presi
dent of the California Miners' -Association,
returned from a two months' tour of the min
ing counties oi the mothcr-!ode rt g^on, where
he was sent by the executive committee to
organize or stimulate local associations, which
woula add needed members and strength to
the State association.
During his extended trip Mr. Thornton oh.
served the new life ihat pervades every min
ing community, and r.is work will result In
very large additions to many county associa
tions. There is every promise that by tall the
California Miners' Association will represent
a membership of at least HOOO, an 1 with the
solidified mining interest behind it, it will be
In a strong position to take up the important
new work which is planned for the future.
Next yenr the association will be ready to en
gage in b big enmpaign at Washington to
secure from Congress additional appropria
tions for restraining dams in the rivers, and
there is every jro^pect that the valley people
who want the navigable portions of the Sacra
mento and Sun Joaquin improved will join the
miners In ibis matter, each supporting the
other for the common good.
"1 visited the counties of Tuolumme, Placer,
Calaverns, Amador, Nevada, El Dorado, Sierra,
Butte, Yub* and Plumas," said Mr. Thornton
yesterday in recounting his work. "I found
everywhere a very hearty interest in the State
association and a read. ness to support county
ones. I distributed blank membership lists
everywhere among mine superintendents,
merchants and bankers, and during all this
summer these blanks will receive signatures
of those who agree to b come members of their
county association and pay $1 dues. Mer
chants and citizens generally who are only in
directly interested in mining are joining
everywhere. The membership in each county
is to be reported September 1.
"In Tuolumme a new association that will
number 500 or GOO by Jail in being Started.
Senator Shine ot Sonora is one of the active
leaders. I found a fairly prosperous organiza
tion in Caloveiai, and it is growing. Amador
had dropped out, and it is now being reor
ganize. In E; Dorndo there was a fair asso
ciation of about 100 members, but a very
active sentiment lollowed my visit, news
papers and leading miners taking hold. Over
100 lists are out, and the membership will
reach 500 or more. Placvr County, which I
left to President Neff's care, has an active as
sociation ol I*2oo member*.
"In Nevada County, which has the strongest
county association, the membership of 1300
will reach 2000 b.~ September. Sierra County
will double its membership. Itutte hi.d
droppeJ out, but I got the promise of 250 to
yOO members among merchants aii'l mining
men. In Yubi there are two organization",
one at Campionville and the other at Brown's
Valley, ai d both are waking up. The organi
zation in I'lumas County lia 1 been dropped,
but ire held a public meeting in the town
hall at Quincy and it was reorganized with a
fine membership and much enthusiasm. I
did not go to Trinity, Siskiyou or irhasta
counties. The first two of thete counties are
organized.
"The business men of the region I visited
realize that congressional aid is needed if
mining Is to reach its bent prospt>rity there.
If the detritus in trie upper parts o. the stream
can be kepi back and the lower parts kept
clear the entire problem between the people
of the mountains and the valleys will bs
solved, and toe California Miners' Association
is the strongest influence that can t.r.ngihls
about. There is no d mbt if hydraulic, drift
and sluice mining can be permitted as freely
ail quartz mining the 30IU production will
soon reach £30,000,000 or #10,000,000 in
stead of $17,000,000.
••I found everywhere more development in
the lines 61 quartz and drill mining at.iJ more
motier being spc:.t in prospecting than i■r
twenty-five years. The eravel deposits have
scarcely been touihed at all, out there is now
great nctiviiy in opening drill mines. 1
judged that at least half tbe money te!ng
M>e:it is California capital. Old mines are
everywhere being reopt-ned at great expenso
and prospects and slightly developed mines
are increasing in numbers, be,ing bonded by
people with money wboagna to do a certain
amount of development work and to buy
within one, two or three year.-, if at all. They
put in their money on the chauce of finding a
good mine.
••The benefit of this great new activity in
the mountains to the valley interests was very
| noticeable. It gives markets to the farmers
I and markets to the bus: ness men of Sacra
| men to, Stockton and other towns a* veil rs
! San Francisco. While on my trip through
i Vubn and Butte counties aud portions of
j Sierra I met at least fifteen lour-horse ivagon
! loads of farm and garden produce that farmers
were peddling through the mmlug region,
finding a ready rnirket for their stuff nud get
ting the coin for it. Stockton does a bis busi
ness witn Mariposa. luolumne and Calavcras
counties, and Sacrnmento has a big and grow
ing trade with the rest of the mining coun
| tics. One firm in Stockton recently sold
! iiOO.OOO feet of umber to one mine. I under
stand tnat one Sacramento firm does a bicger
business in water-pipe than any one San Frun
ci?co house. The bulk of the food supplies
and general merchandise is supplied by
• Sacramento, and to close the mines would
j close half the business houses of that city
This illustrates how tho prosperity of the
mining regions is ol great importance in mauy
! ways to tho entire State." ,
The decision of Circuit Judge Ross the other
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day In the last North Bloomfield case has not
beea fully understood by many peoDle. It
directly affects and temporarily stops but one
hydraulic mine in the State, but it is a highly
important decision nevertheless. It chiefly
aflirms two things: First, that the Caininetti
act is constitutional. Congress having full
power to prevent absolutely the obstruction ot
navigable waters by debris or other things,
and second, that, tne control of hydraulic
mining operations o:i tho watersheds of the
Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers by the
Federal engineers composing the California
Debris Commission is absolute.
This is tho first time that the constitution
ality of the Caminetti law has been passed
upon. This has never been seriously ques
tioned, but there has always been some doubt
as to the extent ol the jurisdiction of the
Debris Commissioners. The suit was really a
friendly one brought to determine this. The
North Blooiutie d Company, which once con
ducted the biggest hydraulic operations in
the State, led tiie van in that ancient struggle
with the anti-debris forces which resulted in
the Sawyer common law decision which closed
the hydraulic mines.
Some years ngo and before the passage of
the Caininetti act the North Bloomfield Com
pany voluntarily constructed restraining
dams ot its own by creating settling reser
voirs out of vast pits vug during its earlier
operaiions. It resumed operations by wash
ing its gravel into these artificial lakes, the
overflow from which was comparatively clear.
Another it junction suit was brought, but on
the showing that the company did not wash
debris into ihe watercourses Circuit Judge
Gilbert allowed the company to proceed.
Then came the Caminetli net, creating a
board of supervlsoiy engineers and requiring
restraining dams and a license from them for
hydraulic mining in these watersheds. The
North Bloomfield Company, having already
built retraining dams, ignored the Federal
engineers and has proceeded without apply
ing for a permit, as have all other hydraulic
miners now operating. The question of the
jurisdiction of the Commissioners in such a
case arose.
There are places, especially in Plumas
County, where streams drain through lakes
and long marshes, which wouid act as natural
reservoirs for debris, if hydraulic mining were
begun above, and in many ways the exact
powers of the Debris Commissioners were Im
portant. The engineers themselves wanted
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the act construed, and as a result of considera
ble correspondence the North Bloomfield Com-
pany shouldered the small expense involved
and a friendly action was brought in lS'Jo',
after a conference in Washington between o'.
W. Cross, attorney for the North Bloomtield
Company, and the War Department aim \i.
torney -General Olney.
The decision declarod that the juristic.
tion of the D ;bris Commission and the
requirement of a permit are wholly
irrespective of the question of whether
debris is properly restrained or not. The
North Bloomfield Company must now apply
lor a permit, and If the Debris Commission--,
find the impounding works sufficient, rs tl.
pKbably will, tho company can go light
ahead.
The other day some able London barristerp
knocked in the head the sale of a Tnr tj
County hydraulic mining property to a Lon
don company. The attorneys prese!iu»i . ; ,
elaborate report on the legal and other (lift.
cul ties of hydraulic mining in California as a
result of the Sawyer decision, the Camlnetl
act and so on aud advised ngainst risking i| .
investment. The attorneys aid not know thai
all these laws and decisions have nothing ,
do with hvdrau.ic mining in Trinity County,
where tfiey can wash down hills with absolute
freedom.
Two important investments of English capi
tal in Mother Lode properties were made Uu:
ing the week. Henry Bratnober, an associate
of Hamilton Smith and a representative of the
Kxpioration Company of Londou, bonded t-.vo
ndjolnlng mines in Mariposa County just
south of the Mariposa grant. The properties
were owned by Mrs. McCreilish and Alfred
Waurtonweiler respectively of this City. One
was bonded for $100,000 and the other for
¥125,000. This investment will, of course, be
foltowtd by extensive development opera tioa.s.
Hamilton Smith and his associates n<
ago bought Alvinza Hayward's one-sixth in
terest in the Mariposa grant on a basis ol
$1,000,000 for the entire property and they
are known to be after a. larger Interest, which
they will probably get one of these days.
These purchases show the laith in Mariposa
County lodes which some ot the biggest ex»
perls and investors in the world possess, an I
they mean large future operations in Marij.»o-a
County.
After making the deal Mr. Bratnober at
once followed Thomas Mem to Alaska. Mem
is now In Silver Bow basin seeing to the big
development work which is to be done on the
fixteen properties sold not long ago by c. f>.
Lane and others. Hamilton Smith is expected
to arrive at Butte, Montana, within a monte
and he will later visit Alaska, too. It is
thought likely that large further investments
of English capital in Alaska will follow the
visits of these associated experts, and many
Californians will bo interested in knowing
whether Hamilton Smith, who can get a mil
lion dollars of English capital by telegraph by
asking for it, will visit California during his
western trip.
The number o* dark-haired girls who
get married greatly exceeds that of the
fair ones, a statistician tells us, and in or
der to prove this is owing to man's
cuoice, not the redundancy of brunettes,
he proceeds to show that an overwhelm
ing majority of those women who "live
and die unmarried" have fair hair and
blue eyes.