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The San Francisco call. (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, March 18, 1900, Image 5

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1900-03-18/ed-1/seq-5/

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Latest Millinery Creation -- The Spring Walking Hat.
THE STJJTDAY CALE.
5
T'lERIv ar« few vexncc who can wear
S rtaliy truly "walking ha*." and
]i look their b'st in It. There arc hats
nrv! hats that ari calk-d "'ivalking
hati" end iho milliner will hold they are
she only ones prr.ilesrcd to that name.
but a« they arc xr.a.«f»r-s of chiton, flowers
nnd ribbon it sofs without saying that
mfidan?^ :Ihs.
Thc'rea! hat is the most trying
tliir.s; s nmiß can put on her head. It
if f-x'.Tt. Bcantfliy tilmm«*U. if trimmed at
all. and has ifce BabaLppyUcnack of brins-
Sbs oat one's bad points— in other words
a thlnx 10 be avoided Ctnlesa one bears a
cMfc- resemblance to th« Gibson gM. for
vhotc the walkiiiß hat v.as built.
Other hats can be twisted and turned
v.vsi rt'.aJe to be becoming, but not so this
hat. its brim is as unhendable as a New
England c-onscienoe, and it "^tays
rut." with :; tenacity which would
do credit to a leech. So the wo-
man is insde for th» hat und .-'"V
not tiip 3»at for the wo-
man. She whose lac* ..*'»-"¦»-* *
stand tiiis . *•'* • \
severenees ot .*¦¦ > V
outline Is - ¦
severe :U: U .JP
type cr *v
3 art Uie C> ""^Wrt
opposite, 'o, .¦ • v*.*3SLwl
with fly-away C$ v . "^ v>£^ r
hair and tiny • '—^*\?IV
featur.s; for the *V/ "'*£«* i«
happy medium it 0$ '' H^kV
rioes not do at all '/, N*s*
and they must content "¦%*
themselves by spitefully
saying. Those hats are the q.
mest hideous I ever saw." m.
And that comes mighty nfar be- *J&
ir.g true. but. like some ugly peo- *~JL
pie, they have a fascination that is •
irresistible, and when on the right ht>ad
they are called pretty— no, not pretty, but
""dead swell."
Wnen a woman calls another "dead
fwell" she often means that that woman
:s ugly and n~.anagcs in some clever way
to lock well in her clothes. The sarm;
with the hat. swell when on the woman
who can wear it. but ugly— oh. so ugly,
when not.
The walking ha in the rough straw
are by far the most stylish. They vary in
shape and trimmin n . some of them being
suitable only for young girls. Soft crepe,
odd ribbon in brigh: and dark shades,
with now and then a wing or breast, are
the only trimmings used, but they are
put on in every c -eivable fashion and
have the stamp of man's work. Some are
made of cloth, with rows and rows of
stitching, and trimmed with soft silk
crepe and white wings.
The straw hats are trimmed with the
ribbon. Some of them that are like sol
dier hats have a crushed hand of the
ribbon around the crown and a laree
dn»ih»*> bow tacked securely to the crown
a little to the left.
One hat in this* soldier s-hape has the
bow on the left side with a quill thru=t
through the knot, but this style is not
strictly new. It being very much like the
felt hats worn during the winter.
Another broad-brimmed straw hat ha?
a round crown and no doubt will be pop
ular. It has for trimming broad ribbon.
the double bow tied at tin? front.
A very natty hat is on the Alpine order
with roiling brim and sets«-^-ell over the
face. The straw is rou?h and the ribbon
trimming ties in a loose knot on the left.
A hat made of gray cloth has rows of
stitching around the brim and for trim
ming a roll of white silk and white tail
feathers: with a light gray gown it would
be very stylish. Another hat of cloth has
the stitching, but the crown Is made of
foils of the cloth and on the left side is a
brown wing, which shades into Uglier
brown and tan.
A toreador hat of fine straw has for
primming crepe de chine and a wing or
pomrons of chiffon and two long quills.
A hat that many can -wear Is a round
toque of coarse straw. The brim is cov
ered with winss. two birds forming the
trimming.
You who insisted upon wearing turbans
during the winter, beware of the straw
ones. If p.tsFible they are more unbecom
ing. Of course there are exceptions— faces
that c<in stand them, but :hey are far
and few between p.nd t>e sure that you are
one of them before you buy a turban.
A man s-aid— a man who evidently knows
something: "Before the summer Is over
every woman who can will have one of
these hats and wear it— becoming or not
becoming — wear it. with any sort of a
pown. and think herself strictly up-to
date, because ' 'tis new. is her bonnet' —
r.nd therefore must be becoming."
Just then a woman went by. Perched
jauntily on her head and touching the top
of the high collar of her sealskin jacket
was a new straw walking hat;
If a prophecy ccme true after uttered,
mid-season will find straw walking hats
and foulard gowns, silk gowns and fancy
waists In a hopeless tangle. Do remember
that walking hats are to be worn only
with cotton shirt waists and tailor gowns,
ar.d are totally out of place with
anything c'.se.
Spring fashions are
coming in so rap- **<?^i&s&.
Sonic of them sre made of very expensive
!aces. but others are of the imitation, and
:»re remarkably cheap and exceedingly
pretty. They arc all in one piece, wituoui
rutrtcs. and clean well.
There tire deep cape collars that are y
shape at the throat and arc something
between a bertha and a fichu in eftect.
These are remaikably cheap and make a
po'iii trimming for the summer materials,
as we!! as for dinner gowns.
Uecid«»s ready-made, fichus there ar?
some In chiffon of different shades, with
tiie ruffles of the same in accordeon
pt c at?. These look very pretty on
white gown p - In the new mate
rials for , summer wear chal
lies, -"' sA gauzes and muslins
S" i threaten to be the
\ most popular. The
s?' \ challies are to d-s
x*. ' very much worn
"* \i&&^L. %t% t an< * are to e * ia(^
r 111 1 . ?* of colorings and
ti 'Sm ' ' \ ccme in light col
\) . ¦ \ nrs and in dark —
\ \ well tn any
V- \"\ \ and tucked
£ skirts.
O. '¦ \ The newest
: V. and most ex
q!ll^ • .te stuff is the
° v * lt '* c cht China silk,
bines all th*
oelicato colors of the opal and is so soft
and flexible in texture that when
made up into a pown it falls in Derfrcl
folds. Another is the cameo silk.' vhlch
has U« principal tints of the cameo—dfU
cate shades of fawn and cream of differ
ent tones. The arrival of these two r.ev/
soft silks shows thnt the stiff taffetas and
all rustling, noisy silk materials are gu
inar out.
The India silks are Persian in design
even mere Persian than the designs of last
year, that had the plain and the alternate
Persian stripe together.
There are new shades of blue, red an«i
green that are attractive in these sliks.
while in the grays there is a wide •^Lgi
of choice. The taffetas are the most beau
tiful in color and design, sometimes coru
l ining ashes of roses and heliotrone
or rome other two shades, espe
cially In the IVrsian pat- .4%
terns, while there are <rf|^^
t sheen and a fin-
» ° n c s f^tjtlu^kyi^v^ * r ;
the wash V ' ~ ; '¦* . , '-^'L-'V"'
mat c rials \tv/ *• " ' " m
UJr«> and are % £&&iJK^'/fs3tt
made with TOWw^fl Hfl *A*CF'
sizefl plaids a:ic \*^*-5J F '^'
checks that are pretty. ¦ \j3^*^
A preat many different * rt ,
shades of purple and ¦ Cj\\
pink are to he used in
the wash materials, both . •
of which are exceedingly
desirable. There are a number of odd
shades in blue with polka dots of
different sizes that are good, and a bright
blue with a fine little dot that is effective
and looks like an India silk, while for
children there is a bright red with a
white dot that is most attractive. ..
Easter season is here and with it comes
conflrma . JL' on
that S: re- 'O.
<<> nn.j cat th* O/-,.
m-^csi things— the tr OlV, With F
little ;h<rg* »»* a
uril dressed numsn must
know about to kc?p well dressed. Ficnu
ff all kind* aie to be sreatly worn.
They are even seen on the. houst
cowrs aiu! on «llnner gownc. though ook: k
of use for ball powns. A llchu is a >rott>-
CaKbtoa and generally a becoming one. ami
hns ill* Krt-at ad%an:aj,'c that It .often
tddea many defects- Iv should never ba
arr.Ti««l around the shoulder? so that it
erase* too tar Aom on the back of the
tvalft. and the folds must be . brought
» round in front and lied In n bow Oi me
dium «ize with fctoort »-nds. The n>ffl"S 0"
on must b» ncant. They can be of net.
pleated chiffon or of iace. but they raust
never be full.
There are some. very chcxrntnp shipea
iare rtchus thst are now to be seen in the
rhop* which %rill be vcrv laehlonable (<>r
trimininE on all eorts of summer, cowns.
'"'¦*¦''. r>O*^ graduation.
?. . __ fl nO yjm There is hardly a
| bDOn « * household . that will
not be represented at" one
or the oth'T event, and airy white dress
fabrics arc being eagerly searched for.
Point d'esprit in ivory-white or cream
Is a very popular fabric for either con
firmation or Rraduation costumes, partic
ularly the latter. A novel introduction
this spring: is the using of the point
d'esprit or organdie instead of silk; or
similar fabrics for the slip skirt which
is to bo -worn with such -dresses. Th«
thin underskirt sives a light transparent
look to the sown which is particularly
pretty- on younp girls. . . -
Tuckinc:, | which -is wonderfullj* popular.
plasß an important part In many of the
Eov.-ns. Some of the skirts are tuckf:-i
from waist to hem. one might say from
reck to feet, as the waists are mad»? en
tirely of narrow tucks. Simplicity in ihtsi
gowns is required.
By&z^ Gossip About f^w Fashions
and' PHTTs OF FetTif lenity.
The
Most;
pspUTai*
yHcd^s
¦ {Sow "
Vogus.
into the fabric. This 5s to be had in every
variety of coloring that was ever known,
and looks equally well, no matter what
shade is chosen, excepting perhaps that
the light colors are better than the dark.
It blends Itself well to the trimming of
lace or passementerie «r cut-work, or can
be and is made up without any trimming
whatever excepting itself. Then there are
the chalJis. that later on will be seen in
great nthnbers, for challi is a very good
material for summer wear, and many new
designs are to be seen in it. The old
fashions that have been revived in what
were known as the Dolly Varden patterns
are good in coloring and will be much
¦worn during the summer. Just at present
the plain ar.d the striped enects are more
fashionable. There are also the Liberty
silks and satins in many different designs
and colorings, all the thin. materials, some
charming silks and even velvets that
make up-well -into these, little gowns.—
Harper's Bazar.. •
The new spring gowns, made all of one
material and not with sepa^y ;.-;.-••;
rate waists as hereto-. "
fore, will be mucll^. ¦ "
worn. . '
The separata '^^
will be of J^SSBSS^O^MtHt^
light- \JHaHnBF ;;'/%<' J^^^tZS
What
Those
Who
W*TT
WtTT
W|ar|
The few separate waists which are be
ing made for spring wear arc of light ?ilks
and muslins or other thin materials, and it
will not be considered the swell thing v>
wear them in the street. They will bj
used only for evening and house, wear,
and will be elaborately trimmed with a'l
sorts of mines and puffings and laces ariJ
ribbons.
The smartest shirt waist will be made
tucKed back and front from . the neck
down, and the tucks will be rather wide
than otherwise. The yoked shirt waist 3 .
have gone out of fashion, and the great
tendency is to make the waist line as lon»j
as possible in front. Some of the moat
"swapper" summer and spring suits -
will be made of white pique and duck
with hair-lined stripes of blue,,
pink, black, yellow, p;c. Tucked jQ/k
China silk shirt waists of all
the new color? will be much
worn. They will bo made
with the collars, bows .4iMhHh
and bolts of tho same jfUUMnVI
material and color. .ttlll|lllll
The habit and flat ilUUVnill
back skirts have jen- llUsUlllll
fullness comes from the
ered. There are throe new llfillllf
with wide tucks stitched nat to 1
belc^" the knf and flared from H«m«Bb
there; othors are made in 'lMSaal
groups of smnllor tuck?, threo \SIIII
or four toB p thor. which oxtrnci rfKHJ
nearly to the bottom of the . -
¦ - * skirt. leavinc a flare of
W <Jnly about half a yard,
v<"i''i\ wi.lch gives the ap-."^..
rffJj^V*^ pearance almost of a
MVv4K%3k%¥\ flounce. A third and
I§PS*^'A a very "smart way
•"^V- %*?i* > iVV\ \ °fhav 1 n g . a tailor
»IY^'. "' :'- ',\ ' skirt made is to have
!^^^^@^^^ 'it tucked in compar
[ @\%^VRs!l9w&',:*- a " around, and
\l , V . , •• hung from a deep
rUZgkV . - ' . \ yokf. Tliorp is an
1w^1...' ', *.~"\ «•-." immense amount
Ma» '* -'"¦'¦' '¦'?} ¦•¦¦¦•¦¦/•, .'.- '"' \ of raised 1 , stltch
¦¦7jMssQsiis&. ¦ in X on the new
V " v- ''• -X^*i"* 7r »\ tailor -made
'!& ~\&s&&x£\ gowns.. Siime
' & rows,
\\6P v P and
\O^' ¦ do wn, " ¦ f r o m
\^ -<<\^ the waisl !| ne to
© -T<^ below , the k^ee; and
others again havo the front
breadth closely stitched, broaden
cning at the bottom, and the back
breadths in the same way.
Sleeves are still worn tight .and are
much trimmed, some with bands of em
broidery or lace, and others are covered
with net or embroidery at the elbow.
They are very long, and the smartest onei
are made ending in a point which covers
the top of the hand to the knuckles.
White taffeta petticoats are to he worr.
a good, deal with light dresses. Ir. th's
day of chemical cleaning tho white o
light silk petticoat is only a moderate
¦extravagance. The -black and white
- striped silk petticoats are highly
li approved by Dame Fashion and
||f the white taffetas with flounces
>S trimmed with-lines of black lace
I i insertion are to be worn upon
t dressy occasions.
It is noticeable that all the
few • ' ew modes aro fliiffily fp i- m
£ 4, nine. Even the shirt waist has .
fi ¦ stooped from its. tailor-made
|j position to take on a bit of
Ift softness. For morning wear
" there are still stiff and straight
ft f muslin waists, but since the shirt
\\i ;¦ waist has been accepted for dress
\J ier wear- as well as practical, it
has taken on a dressy air.
Between the winter, and the -
spring season many dainty little A
fashions make their appearance 0
that are either improved upon or M
injured by their adaptation into JggSj
the summer styles; but every '^^S
woman who can afford to do so SSp 1
spends considerable time and ,£&&?£
money over these same demi- /^^s
season gowns, us they are J&sS^
called, for they give her an '¦'?¦&&&
opportunity of • exercising .^JStfS?
her individual taste. They t2 i! $&£Bp£.
aro generally gowns to he '"J^^^S
arc both for day and ¦**'^^^^^^»
evening wear;, and are /nS^ffffSSgS
m;ulo of light materials l*^S^^S^^
—light In texture ns £&&£**&&£&£%
well as coloring— and *^^^^^^^*
can never bo classed S^^^^^^Sk
the tailor gowns, fc««a£-««»isS<*ia2-.
altho u*g h very
often cloth Is used..
In their . manufac
ture. The cloth!"
this year are so, soft and pliable that they
can be worn for many different occasions,
and are being more and more used for
elaborate gowns as time-goes on. ¦ •
There are, besides the light, cloths.' a
great number of novelty goods this year
that are especially suitable for 1 thess
gowns. Among, them are '; the- different
kinds. of crepes and crepons, and-aimoat
fascinating. material called crepe 4e Pans
that looks like a very fine crepe de Chine,
with a polka dot of the same color woven
silks and muslins or other thin materials.
Almost all the new spring stuffs are of a
soft, clinging quality, which makes them
adaptable to the present style of gown.
There are to be somt lovely silk muslins
lth bunches of Howe-is and sprays cf
vines and ouds, worn.
* The STTiartest^bh t v walst will*be . rhaclo
tucke<l back and front v from the nee.':
down, and thotuoks will be rather wide
than otherwise. The great tendei.cy io to
make the waist lincas long as possible in
front.
The tailor and walking Fklrts will barely
sweep the ground, and the long trains
have entirely passed away with the habit
ar.6 close-fittinK backs.
The return 'of the bustle is heralded. It
x ¦ (¦¦'
V Poses by Miss Laura Crews a
() of the flicazar. \
A .Q
\ Photos by AlisKy. d
A Shirt Waists froro City of X
Q rjats frcrr) Colerrjan.
is not a large affair, but small and well
shaped.
Sleeves arc still worn tight, end art!
much trimmed. They are quite long. a«d
the smartest "IK'S are mai'c ending in X
point which covers. the tip of the hand to
the knuckles. .¦ ,
\ Collars are to lie worn high, but not as
stiff as they have been."
The' new hats are made of pome fancy
straw braids, tulle or'silk nets of the most
fantastic' shapes. Beasts, birds, wings and
feathers are much less- worn, 'and you
can't have enough flowers.— Edith Law
rence In the March Ladles' Home Jour
nal. .•"¦¦' \ ' .
• This i? a very good time of year to buy
remnants ; In. \. , trimminp«.. There aro
bolero jack ;:. ' , et.<» of lace and pas
isementerle; . a- ther« are fronts of
embroider S^ ed and.; jetted
tulle and esSjftk net. and there
are all- SSSS^ lace waists
an d AB^QL jackets.
besides . gS^^i-C^j^^ tllo capes
to good advantage on the cummer gowns,
or. Indeed, to "make over ; winter gowns
that have lost their* first freshness and
stylish ¦ appearance. . Another,': month ¦ and
these same things. will be.much more ex
pensive, although there will be a greater
variety to choose from, for^what. is going
on" now , (taking ¦ stock, as . it , is 'called)
means. simply, that what remains on hand
is disposed of rather than carriedovcr for
another season. _ v
The lace boleros are remarkable^-those
cry of blac't or white and white in. con
junction. ¦•;••'•. ¦' '. ..'.•
•As examples may be > cited ¦ a .; white ba
tiste with groups of black geometrical fig
ures-rather widely: separated, a pink ba
tiste, with 'groups : of , similar, figures :in
bright, deep-blue batiste embroidered
with white Louis Quinze bowknots. ; Any
of . these would make a charming -gown.
-.Fewer. flowers are worn In the hair.wlth
evening, costumes, while ornaments. enjoy
increased . favor. Among the f- newest . of
¦ Some of the nov
elties in ; spring
and summer.
\ wash goods are
g exceed 1 n g 1 >' •
kV<>: p leasing.
%^r\ Among them
-•-." V are sheer
\S ;.?' .law na or
•t« batistes with
set designs
In ¦ emhrnlri-
It is Interesting -to be ififWw
told a few facts about 4?§fi*2&
colors, ns supported by /9&Wa9(s{
the chief designers ot /reAa§pT-& j
sruulps and frc<;ics. /ffSdKF Q2
Fair people sh-jiiK > *J Kfl» # js*^. **
always, ;. v/tth few . : tKf.SW^ ! 4f !^*^'\
exceptions, avok* ' fiv&?An'?f €f t r*'>i'*£'*
blue an.) pink. and^ : '/.-'M£f£vcft«£f££&>>
wear pale yeU MBfp§a&'~~i~
shade known as AfifijUmS.
flambolse. Ex- *|f|?/l|^L^ *W
tremo'.y dark - *??* OT
people look n!c- -_ .V'.-j
eat in almost cv- ' N _
m«f> pink orange,
deep and rich pur--^ -^ : '^^
jilts and blood red. -. ¦/».' ' '^9^^
but -not. scarlet. **/,. . ¦ *
Brown haired folks v^
can perhaps wear more
colors . than any others • c^"q v
without committlhK mistakes. ¦- v «V, ]
but they should avoid grays and -
ereens Dlack Is by no means univer
sally 'becoming, although if properly ma
nipulated jv black gown is .il^-fys in P"°f
style and Rood taste., All white -is beau
tiful but delightfully extravagant, though
perhaps not more so than pale shades.
Remember that there are exceptions to
every rule, and of course a great: deal de
pends upon the color of the eyes and com
plexion, as well as upon the shade .of the
=kln Takinsr it all round, one' will find
that these suggestions do net exactly tally
with the opinion held by most women who
rTuy all their :hir.ga at the. sales. Tne r 3
are a few happily blessed individuals who
always knc^;ex-c-ly what suits "thern.^
There are no colors more deceiving than
blues and pinks. Turquoise blue is ir dif
ficult! color to choose. To begin with.
• here are many shades 'n.the tones then.:
selves. The hardgreen tone is dreadfully
unbecoming.^ especially t to fair people,
who usually affect |it with all zeal. ..
Real lace, or good imitation, is certain
to take hirh Place among decorations for
summer garments. A, soft, fine design n
?L™S B«ince-lace.^«8 «ince-lace.^« extensively; used in
making many of | the new | boleros and
the long transparent sleeves, but satin
. linings are introduced with advant
age if the diaphanous sleeves prove
k too "dressy: for- a ¦' particular, occa
k. slon. It is a good plan to.hiva
m \ " a number .of silk or satin un
lV*\ dersleeves. adjustable. so
¦^v-'X that "they can be put In or
Sv^il-V removed by the Alteration
" ?'"X of a few stitches. These
sleeves In dlftere.nt. tints—
'¦'"'''^j-'K pale blue; cherry red.
$%Ss&&3& ' : mauve, primrose yel
4 V^^^F^v ' low - otc -~ can ' be • va "
Qi^Sa/IS&SiA riously "•' used with
matching " removable
¦S-'^^^^^fA ¦ yoke- linings and nb
'^*&i&B&£m * bon 9 noux -
in renaissance lace, In Irish point, and
in;gulpure, some of which have a trim
ming of ' narrow "black" velvet ribbon run
through th'-i. Others, again, are fas
tened in front with^a large bow of chiffon.
It is surprising how a silk waist that
"-has lost its first freshness is abso.
lutely transformed by one 'of these
fcy^j. la^e boleros, or with the chiffon
bow, or with a laco bow and
long ends. It would never ba
IS?^Blm advisable to recommend any
" fashion that would be an
;:¦-.-- VI untidy one. such as co\*er-
ln X U l' marks of wear or soil
Mk.'sy.lK by trimming.- but often h
waiFt has lost it? freshness
v ?••>.!¦ without being soiled, and- in
\. *:¦;' Ti that case it Is a good plan
\. ' '{ to retrim it; but It never
¦ , -fj | pays to remake anything
C./'J'vE'A that is soiled: The black
£V -:£§- waists are marvcloosly im--
P • V>. A proved by the boleros made
¦I °' vo ' vet flowers outlined
Il9p*fli wJth et nn<l held together
-.%"¦/, 'JMllj with strinKs of jet beads.
'¦¦'-'¦' ffill They are to be found at all
IIS*I tne shops, in different
; fJf|pJ|! colors, and make a gown
';j : ;#||"|»^ look quite new.
*l*lfliHi s *i .The braids t.:at ar« to be
iPgSlgpl used this year on the spring
s«Hp*f-' gowns arc ratlu-r hard to
jgSHvffjf' find, and ars quite pretty
' 'V-l^!' when found.' There is a
iiiiifii*' braid ° fbiapk w|th a uuie
ii§|||||i silver through It that is very
lillllPl charmlns to trim black
-I§ilSlfu cloth gowns, and looks par
klsal^ fe tlcurarly well with a cloth
¦ 111! Iffl gown that has a waistcoat
F?.f§|l lli' or a rrotn t ot white satin.
*PPf§! ' II bra^ '•' not use d in any
*ls* 'il treat quantit.', but outline^
SBbbl Ihl ' ° r two rows on the skirt.
Ilial lit l he.. straight rows being
IniMll Ul broken by loops and buttons
" '¦¦¦¦' trade of the braid, while the
¦ Jacket is fastened with but
tons of the braid fas-
. . the same. — Har-
ixsrs Bazar. &?A
these 2s a sort of flower composed jt tulle,
¦white or colored, very finely jeweled- with
crystals. In the middle an algret of fine
white hairs simulates stamens. .
. • . - ¦ .
¦
Petticoats will remain very flat In the
hip. but around the extreme edge they
will be profusely trimmed and very full.
The showing of lawn dresses confirm*
this prediction, as they are all.slmply
plalted or shirred at the back, smoothly
fitting: over the hips and beginning to
flare just below the knee.
¦It is natural to suppose that petticoat.*
will take the same line. The princess
petticoat is really the model which 13
best adapted to the present
style of dress.
This garment has a fine j*w^_
- m&* F. lt
ribbon man- u/i/.u /i/. t»' C »
ufattur ers have
marie theln sprinpr ribbons
very soft in texture, so that* the bows
may be of either one or several shades
crushed together like a choux or cabbapo
rosette to decorate the left side of th«
corsajre or the front of the soft belt. Taf
feta Is the weave, and in the fancy line?
the . hemstitched and corded
effects are rampant
_^____ in one color and
s«j*S^'£l! if & /f^t>t^. • with whi tft
-\V^ , led, ll^ht baby
\* and pastel blues,
. o <\ cream, 'nek and
'.. i_ Q\)D'^ ./delicate greens show
'^ n .up to the exclusfon of
- other tints. Beautiful sashes
and ' neckties have at eac. end a flower
design in velvet effect, and below this a
deep silk frinpe. The sashes 'are to, be
worn on the loft at the . front, and thi?
ties form a collar aridbow wlthlonp 3nd-r.
Ten-Inch shot taffeta ribbon. In white anj
colors, will be worn in the same manr.i-r.
—March .Ladies' Home Journal.
The first duty of the woman who -values
not to : ¦ tr aw, With Wing a
allow herself.
to .'Rrow either, too stout or too thin.
The great enemy, of. beauty, most
often ..'encountered by . the womep
of the. leisure classes, is embon
point. ' ? .
'AUtthe, conditions' cf their life tend ta
foster It— Retting up late, eating generous
ly of all kinds of rich foods, walking little,
having .no. more serious, occupation than
.visiting, their, friends or their dressmak
ers. "AU'thls luxuryand ease of life tend
to engender obesity.
Women who are inclined to be too stout
should avoid all enervating luxuries and
habits. They should get up early, dress
themselves without the aid of a maid and
take lots of active, jolly exercise- In th«
open air.
• A great many women thinl- dancing dur
ing the party season takes the place of
outdoor exercise.
This Is a great mistake. It does nothing
of the sort.
On the contrary, dancing in heated ball
rooms, .in overscented and germ-fllled at
mospheres. Is quite as likely to prove in
jurious as beneficial.
The woman who is inclined to obesity
must eschew ail kinds of fattening foods,
such as wheat, corn and graham breads,
breakfast cereals of all kinds, pork In all
forms and all meats containing a su
perabundance of fat: fish preserved
in oil. such as salmon, sardines, an
¦/J chovies, vegetables containing
km; starch or sugar, such as peas,
jwj beans, carrots, oyster plant, egg
111 plant and potatoes; macaroni.
Hi ' noodles, spaghetti, vermicelli and
Mwi sweets, puddings and pastry of
IH all descriptions.
Wl However, it !* much better for
Wl the woman who wants to reduce
: Vjfl her weight to incren-;e the ex-
Mn pendlture rather than to limit
. MHk the receipts of her system.
f mUwi It Is a good old rule that t*lN
mHtm. us wo should always nrls*
Mmimim from thp table ff-elinsr aa
f/flln though we could pat more.
JMHIA But above all other things
Iffflllß cultivate your mind, de-
WgfHttn ' velop your intellect. It i*
VUMmmMltl undeniable that there ex-
|sts a .strong bond between
">' .^^HBHa Intelligence and beauty.
v • Intelligence Is said to ht>
3j, tnp beauty of uscllnes*.
>' *•' WW&k ' but lt i!t aiso tne mo!lt
"•''* -^'jMiwi vital and lasting charm
;; : ,'- ** i Jw«fJl of the beautiful wo
- ~" "Sjjr -Mum- ilk man. A man may and
¦ t/liil does grow weary of
* gmmmmk the soft contour of
-JUsUli a merely pretty face.
*W xSLfiih llllt h ° '"¦ and win
v#» /i be always, passion-
atcly attracted tr>
tho bright sparkle
Pf f^ >y#J?ijiV of th* face lit up by
*%&'•-*£§**s¥/ « br»»ant mind and
31* •¦- htOZ/ cultivated 1 n t ellisance
X* '-*!'/ that sparkle in the eyes
»•-' ';£''¦'/ and melt around the
"*,'f *.'?:-' ' mouth as their clever owner
>/ n-%'» v talks or listens. Intellectual
\£'Z / exercise is just as beneficial In
W%y reducing corpulency as is physi
¥¥ cal exercise. Men who use their
y brains constantly and actively
rarely grow too stout. Women of
leisure Inclined to embonpoint should
interest themselves in art. literature.
study, anything, everything that tends
to improve and cultivate thc!r m!nd9
and give brightness and alertness to both
character and expression.
Of course the woman whe Js Inclined to
be too thin must adopt a regimen the
very opposite of the one followed by her
stout sister.
As a rule thin people are inclined to b-»
irritable, nervous, easily worried and an
noyed. They take trifles to heart and aro
.frightened at pc.thing. If they want to
"gain weight snd good looks they must
strenuously combai this unhappy disposi
tion; they must, not think so much about
themselves. ],et them instead tako up
some interesting pursuit, which will leave
them no time to woiry and fret over
trifles.
It is a wfs.^ adage that tells u^ t<-»
"laugh and s?row fat." There Is a great
deal of truth in these terse little words.
Thin people ou?ht to sleep all they possi
bly can. take an abundance of good. rich,
nourishing foods, such as milk, butter,
cheese eggs, nourishing meats and
starchy vegetables. But they should b3
careful not to overtax the digestion, as
that uses up fl»-fch quite as much as does
violent exc»cl*c.
They should avoid all* exciting stimu
lants, such as tea and coffee. On the con
trary, they may drink malt liquors, such
as beer and porter.
The thin. woman would better avoid
such meats as veal, lamb and all the oth
ers known as "young meats," for they
contain numerous half-formed tl3si'e*.
which are assimilated with difficulty.
Th»» woman who wants to have a hand
some, .erect carriage and to walk well
must. by. Judicious and varied excrci3e.
let no set of muscles fall into disuse.
¦ Who-huf.a Frenchman would have con
ceived the Idea of utilizing fish scales for
purposes of ornament? Thesa scales hith
erto have been of little use. except to col
lectors of marine curies. Of course, the
demand in this direction is limited, only
certain exceptionally fine or rare scales
being sought after.- Now. owing to the
discovery of a P'rench chemist in Lyons,
there' is likely to be a growing market
for fish scales. The Frenchman has dis
covered how the scales may be used in
the manufacture of artltlcial pearls and
other ornaments. In fact, the demand
has been so great for them In Lyons that
the supply is absolutely Inadequate. Mr.
Covert. United States Consul at Lyons,
has interested himself in the matter and
finds out that there ls-an actual demand
for large quantities of scales in his con
sulate, where good prices are paid for
them. He has even deemed the Innova
tion of sufficient Importance to form the
subject of a report to his Government, In
which he gives directions as to how tha
scales should be transported. He says:
"The scales should be sprin
kled with salt as soon
jj§^BSjjjgsE^aSi packed in cans. Any
aSSBSiES'SSiiS'N ¦ specimens sent to
s§s3£ssSgKfc ¦¦ ¦ this consulate - will
S»«^K»s!!t**^r->' : receive careful exann-
SBSilMr^. atrT inatlon am', the re-
SS^TT j£S£iH:4 ' suits, with any sug-
W*/*£s9sS5 v gestlons that may
rJ/jC****3SSS!<z' '-¦¦ be made aml P artic *
sy> JKSSSHfev = . ulars of prices of
/Afigz'&X ' k fercd « wiU be duly
iVHkSbSS^SV-; : reported. It is be-
, lieved In Lyons
Hfc^2j§sH*, ¦ that . the sale of
¦ these scales may
-.result in estab-
BK«Sa&* ' Hshlng an Impor-
: '".- tant business in
an article that
Br* ' now has no com-
HL mercial value."
Owing to the
¦'J fact that the
. American stur
geon ha? the
Kg most beautiful
B^j and largest
B»n scales of almost
|N any fish in the
B-,' world this item
V^-f may have con
*3o&&M WkZig slderable inter
jPgglJx&tSßßlM p st to fishermen
i^r 'Tjatp^fißPßlH on l^ e Paciflc
'"%^pp^*L^« Ccast, where
¦sCsaPr ; >?*• *-^3B • large quantities
¦58BSk"' :^l^^ of lhi< * hu se flail
Q^^w^BH are now cap
~ ¦-'^¦EB tured.
-
On July 19 last
.j o.ii *+ an - eru P tf °n of
ia -O||J^ CrzpZ. , stones, ashes and
s t earn occurred
from the great crater of Mount Etna,
and , the astronomical observatory
situated -near the ¦ base of the
crowning cone of ¦ the volcano had a
remarkable escape. Stones were shot to
a height of more than a mile, and thirty
holes were made by theso projectiles * In
the Iron dome of the observatory, which
rovers a large and • valuable telescope.
Fortunately -the Instrument was not
touched. Fifty, holes. In the ground near
the observatory show how close and fierce
was the strange bombardment. Where
the falling stones pierced the wooden floor
holes were burned . .

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