Newspaper Page Text
Knot Coiled Low Is the Popular Mode
Crowns of Bands of Jewels. Favored by Some Smart Conceit in MarabGUt Feathers Something About Butterflies and Flowers Rosettes of Gauze Ribbons for Young Girls Smart Fashion in Double Ornaments *j?1 SMART hair ornament worn with I I an air of individuality is as much I I a part of an evening toilet as the I loriB white gloves my lady draws on before entering her carriage, or :he dainty satin slippers with their pretty leweled buckles peeping from beneath her long clinging skirt. Some heads there are that look best when crowned with bands of jewels, glit tering tiaras or sparkling aigrettes, and there are others which are rendered posi :lvely enchanting when picturesquely idorned with a simple knot or ribbon or i pale tinted rose. In the latter case the srnament is only a detail of the picture md depends for its effect not so much on what it is as on how it is worn. Though the knot colled low in the neck * the popular mode of •wearing the hair at present there are still many fashionable women who prefer high dressing of the tair for evening, consequently the shops are showing ornaments suitable for both styles of coiffure. Among the smartest conceits Just now are marabout feathers, usually spangled »rith rhinestones or pointed gold paillettes, rhese coft, downy ornaments In white are exceedingly pretty, sometimes a single tuft btlrg- worn and, again, three email jnes are clustered together, forming one srn&ment. Then there are roses and choux and deli cately tinted flowers, with full aigrette itandlng up, which gives one desired height. Two large roses with soft white relvet petals placed back to back had one of these feathery adjuncts fastened be rwecn the two flowers. This, ornament is tspeclally pretty with the hair worn on »p of the head. Butterflies, bows and Tobacco-Smoker Who Gets Most Oat of a Good Pipe. THERE are many pipe smokers who do not know how to get the best there is out of their indulgence. The great point in pipe smoking Is to inroke slowly. Nervous smokers smoke too rapidly and burn their tongues with tot emcke, besides falling entirely to get the fullest and best flavor out of the to bacco. It Is all a matter of habit, but ilow smoking is a habit which it is hard Tor some smokers to acquire. In some rases p.pe smokers have tried for years :o check their smoking epeed without success. They begin too late, and the habit of rapid smoking is shaken off with Sifficulty when It Is once acquired. Rapid smoking is as bad as rapid eat- Jng, or worse. It is also "bad form," whether it Is cigar, pipe or cigarette. The smoking- should be deliberate in or der to get the fullest enjoyment. It Is sspeciaUy so ivith a pipe. Many persons have smoked all their lives and yet do not know how to smoke. It Is as painful Jo watch some people smoke as it is to «!t at the table with a man who "gob- Dies" and "gorges" his food on the "flf teen-minutes-for-refreshments" plan. The deliberate pipe smoker gets out of his pipe an enjoyment of which the rapid smoker has no inkling. A cigar which !ias once gone out has its flavor ruined forever, for nothing Is more obnoxious to !hc se::se of smell than a newly extin guished "butt." The beastly persons who lake their beastly "butts," half lighted sr newly extinguished. Into the elevated ind surface cars should have some pun ishment <*«vised for them— "something hu morous with boiling oil." But it makes no difference to the flavor sf a pipe how many times it goes out. Fastidious pipe smokers always have at least two pipes at hand and. never refill Due until it is entirely cooled off. This :s a help toward good smoking and a reasonable life in a pipe. A good way to ifli if you are smoking too fast is to told the bowl of the pipe in your hand. If it Is too hot to be held with comfort, ihen you know that your smoking speed A STUDY IN HAIR ORNAMENTS. birds of old rose or Brussels point Jace, invisibly wired to rest against or hover over the coiffure, are liked by a few. "When these lace novelties are black they are adorned with jet paillettes or dull sil ver ones. The popularity of wreaths doesn't seem to have diminished, though instead of the glittering ones of bright red, green and silver paillettes, so much worn last sea son, there seems to be a preference for those in natural looking grecrs or of soft velvet, generally in white. There is noth ing to brighten them, and, as a conse quence, they are rather trying to any ex cept persons with soft, wavy hair of light coloring. Roses of velvet— In fact, all flowers molded in this soft material— are very smart, but the colors must not be too bright hued. A single pink flower in the "crush" va riety, with its large, flat petals glittering with rhlnes tones, looks effective nestling against soft hair of a gold brown shade, ■while another in rich American beauty tints, with these sparkling crystal drops trembling on its velvety petals, gives to a brunette an adorably coquettish air when It Is tucked Just behind the left ear. Although different in style is a spreading bow of inch-wide velvet ribbon, wired to lay in long, gracefully twisted loops, and to be -worn flat on the top of the head. Rhinestone -spangles sewn on the ribbor. In diagonal rows give the ornament 8 chic air. The woman with classic features. who wears her hair slightly parted and drawn back loosely from her face, will find this Alsatian bow vastly becoming. Sometimes two ornaments are worn, only, however, with the low coiffure; one is too great. Good tobacco, a good pipe and deliberateness are the prime essen tials in pipe emoklng. Eat slowly, smoke slowly, drink seldom: so shall you live long in the land and enjoy the fullness thereof.— Chicago Tribune. Continued Prom Page Two. first mate, and A. A. Platt, second mate and cook. "Now, I tell you It's no fun to stand at the wheel, with the ship going broadside In the trough of the waves, and try to keep your reckonings when you have to depend on a sextant, for we had no chro nometer. When the sun shines you don't feel so much that there is only a plank between you and eternity, but when there is a leaden sky and the night with its fogs is settling down and the wind whistles as if It knew that it owned the vessel and everybody on it, then you wish it was the width of a gang plank to land instead of 450 miles. "Well, we got along pretty well for greenhorns, Moseley being the only sailor in the crowd, . and twice we got as far ncrth as Mendocino. and then twice we found ourselves off Point Reyes. Then we decided to make one more try of it, for the place we were bound for. And then happened the saddest, most uncanny dis aster of the whole trip. We three men hau to take turns at the wheel, and I have not had mr clothes off once during the time we were away. The Cordelia man aged to keep us all on the alert most of the time, I can tell you. On the night of October 8 we were once more off the Ore gon coast and Moseley was at the helm. Second Mate Platt and I were bunking in the cabin trying to get a wink of sleep. is usually of upstanding loops of ribbon or a close bunch of small blossoms, placed on top of the head a,little to the left side. This is to give the desired height some women think is demanded with the long lines of the trailing evening 1 gown. - The second ornament matches the larger one. It Js quite small and is gracefully worn Just behind the ear, nestling In the soft curls coiled low in the neck. Gauze ribbons gathered into rosettes are extremely pretty for adorning the heads of young girls. Oftentimes small roses are fastened among the full loops of the "W VOy^SS OP THS COSD5UA HSAUD Suddenly the Cordelia gave an awful lurch to leeward, there was a rumbling, rackety sound, and something shot down the hatchway. "It was Moseley, and he never moved from the floor where he struck. He was conscious, poor J lad, but he sailed no farther with the crew of the Cordelia. Platt was as tender as a woman with him, but he only lived a few minutes. I rushed up to the de,ck 'to man the wheel' and I found that the main boom had swung around and struck the poor boy and knocked him down the stairway. The awful blow fractured his skull. He died doing his duty as a soldier should, for he had served In the United States army in the Philippines and had a good record. That was a solemn thing when we gave the poor boy's body to 'the sea and all that therein is.' "Platt sewed him up in a spare sail and brought him aft to the wheel, where I was on duty. It; was a stormy time and it was a strange scene on the deck of the .little craft, tossing on a foggy sea. I said a prayer and then we both turned our heads away as Platt let the canvas shrouded body slip Into the green curling waves. "That left -two of us and many fearful days and nights did we see together. We THE SUNDAY CALk. ribbon, especially if the ornament is In delicate pink, when- Picayune roses or flowering almond blossoms are combined with the gauze of the same delicate pink. It'Is a smart fashion to have these two ornaments fastened together with a dou ble band of the gauze ribbon, for with this style many effective and unusual ar ranjemants may be obtained. For In stance, by placing the larger rosette against the: hair at the left of the upper part of the semi-low coiffure, the connect ing band of ribbon may be twisted among the coils of the hair; the smaller rosette had to chance watches with^each other and one of us often had to work sixteen hours a day. Sometimes In the open sea I was so fatigued that I would come near dropping at the wheel. Sometimes we would just lash the wheel and let the Cordelia go before' the wind and take care of herself while we slept.' And when w« did sleep we slept without Inquiring what became of the Cordelia, or how many beUa had just struck. /And ; we always came out right, though we had some pretty close shaves. After the death of Moseley we decided to go on any try to reach our destination and see whether landsmen could run a boat or not. After a long time, in which we saw neither land nor lights, we arrived off the mouth of the Klamath River on October 19. And that was the hardest pill of all our long and eventful trip. "We had neither steam nor a propeller and we had to have three conditions fa vorable or we would bump on the outside bar. We had to have a smooth sea, with tide and wind up the river. These three things we could not get. After making several attempts to enter the river there seemed to be nothing left to do but to tack, ship and float for San Francisco, which we accordingly did. By this time we were getting to.be pretty well filled may then be brought lower on the same side as the other one, or crossed to the right side of the coiffure and pinned just behind the ear. Small rosettes with two upstanding loops of double-faced satin ribbon, show ing one. side white and'the other delicate pink or pale blue, make pretty and simple little ornaments to be worn v/lth gowns not too elaborate.' . • ; A corsage knot of ribbon to match gives a smart touch' to a demi- toilet. • However, the smartest little hair orna ment" made of ribbon is the small round with sea_ salt and knew when to say •Aye, aye! sir,' in the right place. , "1 grew to' know a good deal about the relations, of a sextant to the sun, and the funny thing about it Is that though I had no chronometer I managed to keep my bearings on the whole ' tour. We came down the coast in less time than it took lis to get in the Golden Gate after we got here, and when we were off "Point Reyes .wo saw a school of whales. One of them, about forty feet long, I should say, began to spout about thirty feet from the Cor delia. .That was near. enough to suit my taste, for, you know, I built, my craft with' a flat bottom. But he came nearer and nearer, and Platt and I were almost paralyzed when the huge " fish plunged downward in a dive right under the cabin of our vessel. We held our breath, and in a moment he came out on the other side, and we ccuid see that his whaleshtp was covered with barnacles. Once he came up within tph feet of the 'side and turned over, like a big sea kitten. I think he must have thought )ie • could have a chance to get those uarnacles off, but if he had ever, humped up his back under the Cordelia there would have been two more farmers in Davy Jones' locker. The sailors have told us since that if we had gone down in the cabin -and made even a ch©u of two-toned ribbon, say the favorite pink and white, with a pink crush rose placed in the center of the rosette. Th« effect is charming, and is a pleasing varl- What the President's Private Secretary Has to Do. position of secretary to the 1 President of the United States is an arduous one. In the rendering of its multitudinous services »t calls for the business qualifications of a methodical and systematic slight noise by pounding on the sides of the ship his lordship would have de camped immediately. But we didn't know that, and we sat there frightened to death while he repeated the" diving process, coming up on the other side of the boat, I think about twenty times. "The next thing that worried us was the running low of our food supply. The supply, of oil for.the lanterns was nearly exhausted, and things began to look se rious. Then stormy weather began and lasted until November 6. "We had two tight spots to get out of on the voyage back. Once we came near going ashore at' Fort Ross. The waves were high, and the wind blew to west and then to north. We could see the land only a mile or two away, 'and the Cordelia's nose heading straight for it. In some way I managed to tack' ship, and my luck did not desert me. We had fourteen tons of coal as bal last when we started, but that . didn't amount to much. The fact of the matter is the Cordelia can't steer, and I think I shall use steam on .her next voyage. We arrived off the Golden Gate on November 10, and then came what was not the least trying part of the long sail. We had to do as much watching and steering as if we were starting for a. foreign port in stead of waiting to pass into a home port. Thick. weather and rolling seas kept the rule, and it was not until December 6 that wind and tide were fair, and taking my old stand at the wheel I guided the Cor delia through the Golden Gate. And here in port we'll stay for the. present." Atlan to the s.:mp> unadorned rot*, though, to be sure, there is never any thing prettier than this beautiful flower ■frhen becomingly worn. By the way, tight little rosettes very much like those one sees on the head band ef a horse's bridle are used on many of the smartest gowns. These hard little bunches of ribbon have quite superseded the recently popular soft chiffon chou. Black velvet seems to be reserved for house wear, and with many of the soft, graceful tea gowns or house gowns -velvet knots and tiny rosettes are seen. Some times there are small steel or rhlnestone boutona to brighten them up a bit. "Whatever you choose to ornament your hair, have, it becoming. Study your face and head carefully and select something that suits Its lines and your style of coif fure. Don't place an ornament In your hair without regard to the effect you wish to produce. Have as much Individuality about it as you like, but never attempt anything outre. clerk, in the performance of the daily routine of official work and the finesse o? a practiced diplomat In meeting and sat isfactorily adjusting situations which nat urally come before him as an intermedi ary between the President and an assort ed public, each individual of which b»- lievea himself entitled to a portion of th* time and interest of the chief executive The task of handling and answering: th« White House mail is in itself no small one, the President receiving from 200 to 1200 letters a day. Important or not, each of these communications receives due at tention, the secretary carefully sorting and classifying them; presenting some to the- personal attention of the President. referring others to the department or per son to which each properly belongs, wttll* all receive courteous acknowledgment from the President's representative. The secretary Is also required to meet and dispose of the numerous visitors who call on the President at times net set aside for his public receptions, and whoa* business ranges all the way from that relative to the appointment of a Supreme Court Judge or the Governor of a turbu lent territory to the obtaining et th« presidential autograph for a school girl's album. To deal with this heterogeneous mass la such a way as to best serve the ends of both business and courtesy, while econo mizing his own time and easing the strain on the President's personal attention by selecting the really important from ths trivial quest— sorting the grain from ths chaff— giving offense to none, and sending all away with pleasant worda and smiling faces, requires endless resources of tact and good judgment. The secretary is also expected to keep at his fingers' ends the details of all the official business of the executive office, and the President ia likely to send for him frequently eacn day to consult him re garding official engagements which hav* been made by him, to seek information and advise with him upon soxn« matter under consideration, or, at a moment's notice, to bring papers and data in nan case daraanding immediate attention*— November Success.