The San Francisco call. [volume], December 29, 1901, Page 3, Image 3

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
Knot Coiled Low Is the Popular Mode
Crowns of Bands of Jewels. Favored by Some
Smart Conceit in MarabGUt Feathers
Something About Butterflies and Flowers
Rosettes of Gauze Ribbons for Young Girls
Smart Fashion in Double Ornaments
*j?1 SMART hair ornament worn with
I I an air of individuality is as much
I I a part of an evening toilet as the
I loriB white gloves my lady draws
on before entering her carriage, or
:he dainty satin slippers with their pretty
leweled buckles peeping from beneath her
long clinging skirt.
Some heads there are that look best
when crowned with bands of jewels, glit
tering tiaras or sparkling aigrettes, and
there are others which are rendered posi
:lvely enchanting when picturesquely
idorned with a simple knot or ribbon or
i pale tinted rose. In the latter case the
srnament is only a detail of the picture
md depends for its effect not so much on
what it is as on how it is worn.
Though the knot colled low in the neck
* the popular mode of •wearing the hair at
present there are still many fashionable
women who prefer high dressing of the
tair for evening, consequently the shops
are showing ornaments suitable for both
styles of coiffure.
Among the smartest conceits Just now
are marabout feathers, usually spangled
»rith rhinestones or pointed gold paillettes,
rhese coft, downy ornaments In white are
exceedingly pretty, sometimes a single
tuft btlrg- worn and, again, three email
jnes are clustered together, forming one
srn&ment.
Then there are roses and choux and deli
cately tinted flowers, with full aigrette
itandlng up, which gives one desired
height. Two large roses with soft white
relvet petals placed back to back had one
of these feathery adjuncts fastened be
rwecn the two flowers. This, ornament is
tspeclally pretty with the hair worn on
»p of the head. Butterflies, bows and
Tobacco-Smoker Who Gets Most Oat of a Good Pipe.
THERE are many pipe smokers who
do not know how to get the best
there is out of their indulgence. The
great point in pipe smoking Is to
inroke slowly. Nervous smokers smoke
too rapidly and burn their tongues with
tot emcke, besides falling entirely to get
the fullest and best flavor out of the to
bacco. It Is all a matter of habit, but
ilow smoking is a habit which it is hard
Tor some smokers to acquire. In some
rases p.pe smokers have tried for years
:o check their smoking epeed without
success. They begin too late, and the
habit of rapid smoking is shaken off with
Sifficulty when It Is once acquired.
Rapid smoking is as bad as rapid eat-
Jng, or worse. It is also "bad form,"
whether it Is cigar, pipe or cigarette.
The smoking- should be deliberate in or
der to get the fullest enjoyment. It Is
sspeciaUy so ivith a pipe. Many persons
have smoked all their lives and yet do
not know how to smoke. It Is as painful
Jo watch some people smoke as it is to
«!t at the table with a man who "gob-
Dies" and "gorges" his food on the "flf
teen-minutes-for-refreshments" plan.
The deliberate pipe smoker gets out of
his pipe an enjoyment of which the rapid
smoker has no inkling. A cigar which
!ias once gone out has its flavor ruined
forever, for nothing Is more obnoxious to
!hc se::se of smell than a newly extin
guished "butt." The beastly persons who
lake their beastly "butts," half lighted
sr newly extinguished. Into the elevated
ind surface cars should have some pun
ishment <*«vised for them— "something hu
morous with boiling oil."
But it makes no difference to the flavor
sf a pipe how many times it goes out.
Fastidious pipe smokers always have at
least two pipes at hand and. never refill
Due until it is entirely cooled off. This
:s a help toward good smoking and a
reasonable life in a pipe. A good way to
ifli if you are smoking too fast is to
told the bowl of the pipe in your hand.
If it Is too hot to be held with comfort,
ihen you know that your smoking speed
A STUDY IN HAIR ORNAMENTS.
birds of old rose or Brussels point Jace,
invisibly wired to rest against or hover
over the coiffure, are liked by a few.
"When these lace novelties are black they
are adorned with jet paillettes or dull sil
ver ones.
The popularity of wreaths doesn't seem
to have diminished, though instead of the
glittering ones of bright red, green and
silver paillettes, so much worn last sea
son, there seems to be a preference for
those in natural looking grecrs or of soft
velvet, generally in white. There is noth
ing to brighten them, and, as a conse
quence, they are rather trying to any ex
cept persons with soft, wavy hair of light
coloring.
Roses of velvet— In fact, all flowers
molded in this soft material— are very
smart, but the colors must not be too
bright hued.
A single pink flower in the "crush" va
riety, with its large, flat petals glittering
with rhlnes tones, looks effective nestling
against soft hair of a gold brown shade,
■while another in rich American beauty
tints, with these sparkling crystal drops
trembling on its velvety petals, gives to
a brunette an adorably coquettish air
when It Is tucked Just behind the left ear.
Although different in style is a spreading
bow of inch-wide velvet ribbon, wired to
lay in long, gracefully twisted loops, and
to be -worn flat on the top of the head.
Rhinestone -spangles sewn on the ribbor.
In diagonal rows give the ornament 8
chic air. The woman with classic features.
who wears her hair slightly parted and
drawn back loosely from her face, will
find this Alsatian bow vastly becoming.
Sometimes two ornaments are worn,
only, however, with the low coiffure; one
is too great. Good tobacco, a good pipe
and deliberateness are the prime essen
tials in pipe emoklng. Eat slowly, smoke
slowly, drink seldom: so shall you live
long in the land and enjoy the fullness
thereof.— Chicago Tribune.
Continued Prom Page Two.
first mate, and A. A. Platt, second mate
and cook.
"Now, I tell you It's no fun to stand at
the wheel, with the ship going broadside
In the trough of the waves, and try to
keep your reckonings when you have to
depend on a sextant, for we had no chro
nometer. When the sun shines you don't
feel so much that there is only a plank
between you and eternity, but when there
is a leaden sky and the night with its fogs
is settling down and the wind whistles as
if It knew that it owned the vessel and
everybody on it, then you wish it was the
width of a gang plank to land instead of
450 miles.
"Well, we got along pretty well for
greenhorns, Moseley being the only sailor
in the crowd, . and twice we got as far
ncrth as Mendocino. and then twice we
found ourselves off Point Reyes. Then we
decided to make one more try of it, for
the place we were bound for. And then
happened the saddest, most uncanny dis
aster of the whole trip. We three men
hau to take turns at the wheel, and I have
not had mr clothes off once during the
time we were away. The Cordelia man
aged to keep us all on the alert most of
the time, I can tell you. On the night of
October 8 we were once more off the Ore
gon coast and Moseley was at the helm.
Second Mate Platt and I were bunking in
the cabin trying to get a wink of sleep.
is usually of upstanding loops of ribbon or
a close bunch of small blossoms, placed
on top of the head a,little to the left side.
This is to give the desired height some
women think is demanded with the long
lines of the trailing evening 1 gown. - The
second ornament matches the larger one.
It Js quite small and is gracefully worn
Just behind the ear, nestling In the soft
curls coiled low in the neck.
Gauze ribbons gathered into rosettes are
extremely pretty for adorning the heads
of young girls. Oftentimes small roses
are fastened among the full loops of the
"W VOy^SS OP THS COSD5UA HSAUD
Suddenly the Cordelia gave an awful lurch
to leeward, there was a rumbling, rackety
sound, and something shot down the
hatchway.
"It was Moseley, and he never moved
from the floor where he struck. He was
conscious, poor J lad, but he sailed no
farther with the crew of the Cordelia.
Platt was as tender as a woman with
him, but he only lived a few minutes. I
rushed up to the de,ck 'to man the wheel'
and I found that the main boom had
swung around and struck the poor boy
and knocked him down the stairway. The
awful blow fractured his skull. He died
doing his duty as a soldier should, for he
had served In the United States army in
the Philippines and had a good record.
That was a solemn thing when we gave
the poor boy's body to 'the sea and all
that therein is.'
"Platt sewed him up in a spare sail and
brought him aft to the wheel, where I
was on duty. It; was a stormy time and
it was a strange scene on the deck of the
.little craft, tossing on a foggy sea. I
said a prayer and then we both turned
our heads away as Platt let the canvas
shrouded body slip Into the green curling
waves.
"That left -two of us and many fearful
days and nights did we see together. We
THE SUNDAY CALk.
ribbon, especially if the ornament is In
delicate pink, when- Picayune roses or
flowering almond blossoms are combined
with the gauze of the same delicate pink.
It'Is a smart fashion to have these two
ornaments fastened together with a dou
ble band of the gauze ribbon, for with
this style many effective and unusual ar
ranjemants may be obtained. For In
stance, by placing the larger rosette
against the: hair at the left of the upper
part of the semi-low coiffure, the connect
ing band of ribbon may be twisted among
the coils of the hair; the smaller rosette
had to chance watches with^each other
and one of us often had to work sixteen
hours a day. Sometimes In the open sea
I was so fatigued that I would come near
dropping at the wheel. Sometimes we
would just lash the wheel and let the
Cordelia go before' the wind and take care
of herself while we slept.' And when w«
did sleep we slept without Inquiring what
became of the Cordelia, or how many beUa
had just struck. /And ; we always came
out right, though we had some pretty
close shaves. After the death of Moseley
we decided to go on any try to reach our
destination and see whether landsmen
could run a boat or not. After a long
time, in which we saw neither land nor
lights, we arrived off the mouth of the
Klamath River on October 19. And that
was the hardest pill of all our long and
eventful trip.
"We had neither steam nor a propeller
and we had to have three conditions fa
vorable or we would bump on the outside
bar. We had to have a smooth sea, with
tide and wind up the river. These three
things we could not get. After making
several attempts to enter the river there
seemed to be nothing left to do but to
tack, ship and float for San Francisco,
which we accordingly did. By this time
we were getting to.be pretty well filled
may then be brought lower on the same
side as the other one, or crossed to the
right side of the coiffure and pinned just
behind the ear.
Small rosettes with two upstanding
loops of double-faced satin ribbon, show
ing one. side white and'the other delicate
pink or pale blue, make pretty and simple
little ornaments to be worn v/lth gowns
not too elaborate.' . •
; A corsage knot of ribbon to match gives
a smart touch' to a demi- toilet. •
However, the smartest little hair orna
ment" made of ribbon is the small round
with sea_ salt and knew when to say
•Aye, aye! sir,' in the right place.
, "1 grew to' know a good deal about the
relations, of a sextant to the sun, and the
funny thing about it Is that though I had
no chronometer I managed to keep my
bearings on the whole ' tour. We came
down the coast in less time than it took
lis to get in the Golden Gate after we got
here, and when we were off "Point Reyes
.wo saw a school of whales. One of them,
about forty feet long, I should say, began
to spout about thirty feet from the Cor
delia. .That was near. enough to suit my
taste, for, you know, I built, my craft
with' a flat bottom. But he came nearer
and nearer, and Platt and I were almost
paralyzed when the huge " fish plunged
downward in a dive right under the cabin
of our vessel. We held our breath, and in
a moment he came out on the other side,
and we ccuid see that his whaleshtp was
covered with barnacles. Once he came up
within tph feet of the 'side and turned
over, like a big sea kitten. I think he
must have thought )ie • could have a
chance to get those uarnacles off, but if
he had ever, humped up his back under
the Cordelia there would have been two
more farmers in Davy Jones' locker. The
sailors have told us since that if we had
gone down in the cabin -and made even a
ch©u of two-toned ribbon, say the favorite
pink and white, with a pink crush rose
placed in the center of the rosette. Th«
effect is charming, and is a pleasing varl-
What the President's Private Secretary Has to Do.
position of secretary to the
1 President of the United States is
an arduous one. In the rendering
of its multitudinous services »t
calls for the business qualifications
of a methodical and systematic
slight noise by pounding on the sides of
the ship his lordship would have de
camped immediately. But we didn't know
that, and we sat there frightened to death
while he repeated the" diving process,
coming up on the other side of the boat,
I think about twenty times.
"The next thing that worried us was
the running low of our food supply. The
supply, of oil for.the lanterns was nearly
exhausted, and things began to look se
rious. Then stormy weather began and
lasted until November 6. "We had two
tight spots to get out of on the voyage
back. Once we came near going ashore
at' Fort Ross. The waves were high, and
the wind blew to west and then to north.
We could see the land only a mile or two
away, 'and the Cordelia's nose heading
straight for it. In some way I managed
to tack' ship, and my luck did not desert
me. We had fourteen tons of coal as bal
last when we started, but that . didn't
amount to much. The fact of the matter
is the Cordelia can't steer, and I think I
shall use steam on .her next voyage. We
arrived off the Golden Gate on November
10, and then came what was not the least
trying part of the long sail. We had to
do as much watching and steering as if
we were starting for a. foreign port in
stead of waiting to pass into a home port.
Thick. weather and rolling seas kept the
rule, and it was not until December 6 that
wind and tide were fair, and taking my
old stand at the wheel I guided the Cor
delia through the Golden Gate. And here
in port we'll stay for the. present."
Atlan to the s.:mp> unadorned rot*,
though, to be sure, there is never any
thing prettier than this beautiful flower
■frhen becomingly worn.
By the way, tight little rosettes very
much like those one sees on the head band
ef a horse's bridle are used on many of
the smartest gowns. These hard little
bunches of ribbon have quite superseded
the recently popular soft chiffon chou.
Black velvet seems to be reserved for
house wear, and with many of the soft,
graceful tea gowns or house gowns -velvet
knots and tiny rosettes are seen. Some
times there are small steel or rhlnestone
boutona to brighten them up a bit.
"Whatever you choose to ornament your
hair, have, it becoming. Study your face
and head carefully and select something
that suits Its lines and your style of coif
fure. Don't place an ornament In your
hair without regard to the effect you wish
to produce. Have as much Individuality
about it as you like, but never attempt
anything outre.
clerk, in the performance of the daily
routine of official work and the finesse o?
a practiced diplomat In meeting and sat
isfactorily adjusting situations which nat
urally come before him as an intermedi
ary between the President and an assort
ed public, each individual of which b»-
lievea himself entitled to a portion of th*
time and interest of the chief executive
The task of handling and answering: th«
White House mail is in itself no small
one, the President receiving from 200 to
1200 letters a day. Important or not, each
of these communications receives due at
tention, the secretary carefully sorting
and classifying them; presenting some to
the- personal attention of the President.
referring others to the department or per
son to which each properly belongs, wttll*
all receive courteous acknowledgment
from the President's representative.
The secretary Is also required to meet
and dispose of the numerous visitors who
call on the President at times net set
aside for his public receptions, and whoa*
business ranges all the way from that
relative to the appointment of a Supreme
Court Judge or the Governor of a turbu
lent territory to the obtaining et th«
presidential autograph for a school girl's
album.
To deal with this heterogeneous mass la
such a way as to best serve the ends of
both business and courtesy, while econo
mizing his own time and easing the strain
on the President's personal attention by
selecting the really important from ths
trivial quest— sorting the grain from ths
chaff— giving offense to none, and sending
all away with pleasant worda and smiling
faces, requires endless resources of tact
and good judgment.
The secretary is also expected to keep
at his fingers' ends the details of all the
official business of the executive office,
and the President ia likely to send for him
frequently eacn day to consult him re
garding official engagements which hav*
been made by him, to seek information
and advise with him upon soxn« matter
under consideration, or, at a moment's
notice, to bring papers and data in nan
case daraanding immediate attention*—
November Success.