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The San Francisco call. (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, June 01, 1902, Image 10

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of such eyes a pretty story Is told. A
man who was devoted to astronomy, and,
from a timid nature, seemed doomed to
bachelorhood was asked one day by a
"Have you' over observed Miss 's
eyes? They have the property of double
refraction." "Dear nw, that is very odd,"
he exclaimed.' "I should like to see that
Do you think I might venture to call?"
And call he did and begged permission ta
examine the young woman's eyes.
The novelty of the situation fascinated
him. He begged the privilege of a sec
ond look at the eyes In a clear light. Tha
problem grew so Interesting that he at
length came to the conclusion to make It
a life study. The boldness born of scien
tific curicsity cnaolcd him ultf»-o»»ly to
propose.* He was accepted, and the
strange courtship ended in a'happy mar
riage. ¦ , " *
Hygiene of the Eyes.
There are very few. women 'nowadays
who resort to the injurious . practice of
dropping' belladonna into ' the' eyes to
brighten them. It is absolutely • ruinous
to the sight, and gives the eyes an arti
ficial look, as unbecoming as that pro
duced by a hard, dark line under the
lower lashes.
The paint used . to darken the under
eyelids Is -often made up of injurious sub
stances, which In time make' the flesh
around the* eyes old and wrinkled.
Good digestion Is the best aid to beau
tiful eyes, for a disordered stomach shows
«?-*!# in the vellowish vhitesof.the ey«s.
Bathe the eyes the last thing before re
tiring and the first thing in the morning.
Use warm water. If the eyes are? tired.
bathing "them in mild, cold tea or weak
Ealt ; water or. warm . milk rests them.
Simply bathe the outer skin," with eyes
closed. A soft 'linen "cloth; which" Is used
for no other purpose, is. the best for bath
ing the eyesv '
There is a prevalent belief that a dally
cold water bath of the eyes— opening and
shutting the eyes under water— Is benefi
cial and tends to strengthen the eyes. It
may render the eye somewhat more re
slstant to external Influences, such as
cold, but it can in no way affect the sight
itself. v
Close the eyes, once in every two or
three hours, for five or ten minutes at a
time. Always close the eyes when you
have nothing. to do. So long as they are
open they are to a certain extent at work.
If the eyes are not rested now and then
sharp. It is a great mistake to shape
the nail into the very long sharp point,
for It breaks easily and is dangerous.
There, is a point called the Langtry nail.
The nail grows high at each. side of the
finger so as to keep it In shapes then
come to the point, which ns almost a
blunt one. A very high polish finishes the
The Pink Rim.
The question of cleansing the nail Is
probably the first one that occurs to a
woman who has to do . her own mani
curing. If the nail be scraped under
neath, either with the cleaner or with the
orange wood stick, it soon grows white
and a great unsightly rim disfigures the
tip. '..-.-¦
Now, a pretty nail should be pink almost
to the finger end; and there should be
scarcely any whitish rim.
To obtain this pinkish appearance dean
the nail as little as possible. ' When wash-
Eyes having the property of double re
fraction are not .common; about a pair
Only second to the eyes in importance
are the eyebrows. A follower of Buddha
dares heaven to show him anything finer
in its way than the dusky crescents over
his lady's eyes, curved and soft as a but
terfly's pinicr.s. He more often writes
sonnets to his inistress' eyebrows than to
her eyes. Finely arched eyebrows in a
v/orr.an indicate a character fond of mu
sic, artistic pursuits, dress, pleasure and
appreciative of loveliness wherever it ap
pears. •
The blue eye wins by kindness: the
black by power; the gray by intellect, and
the brown by love. ,
: Dtep-eol^red eyes, with well arched
lids, ¦ lint h upper and lower, show a truth
ful an'd affectionate r.ature. There is one
thing, hov/ever, to be remembered about
b?aek eyes— don't arouse them. They are
capable of taking vengeance, seldom for
get an injury and will bide their time.
Both black and brown eyes indicate
frankness, warm affection and a great de
gree of character. Blue eyes, full of tac
tics, keep their secrets well; but thsy
make warm friends, being- amiable, truth
fu! and affectionate. .The Greeks, who
admired blue eyes, fondly called Minerva
"the blue-eyed maid," and Neptune "the
god of the azure eyes." Venus, too, had
blue eves.
In the Orient no .woman can be beauti
ful who has not laige, dreamy eyes. In
Italy and Spain a pair of bijr eyes, even
if expressionless, are enough to entitle a
woman to be called a beauty, but in
America a woman with very large eyes
and no other charms is never rated as a
Wauty. Usually more' indicative 'of power
than of beauty are large eyes. Too full,
they denote a timid and -stupid, even
tre£;cherous;nature. Juno had "large, ma
jestic eyes'': Homer describes her as "ox
eyed." Fairly large and bright eyes, show
qrick perception and an intense nature.
Small eyes are indicative, of . an alert
mir.d,. of wit, cleverness, spontaneity.
Long eyes, belong to a poetic tempera
ment;- .they . proclaim . a dreamy . nature,
contented and n«t aspiring. Hound eyes
are. ambitious. Deep-set eyes show
'thong htfulness and logic. Proiru<T.ng eyes
show love of action and are indicative of
fine conversational powers.
Heavy lids, which in a manner unroll
over the eyes, have always been thought
beautiful, perhaps because they imply
large. eyes. A Persian stakes his all on a
woman with heavy lided eyes and mas
sive eyebrows curving heavily down on the.
temples. Such eyebrows denote a jealous
nature, and jealousy is flattering to the
masculine mind in Persia.
ery one will declare is charming—fascinat
ing. Soft and melting eyes, flashing eyes,
brilliant eyes, soulful eyes are not. in it
with the eyes of the direct gaze, particu
larly if they are shaded by lids which are
rather large and heavy.
To point the nail cut it with the straight
scissors but do not have the point too
The-- nails when, too long will break, so
It Is necessary to observe some caution In
the care of them, and it Is really a task
to keep them just the right length, of the
right shape arid of the right color.
There are three or four ways of cutting
the nails. The rounded nail of the busi
ness woman is the most practical; and
the scuare nail of the working woman
is necessary in certain cases; but neither
aye as pretty) as the pointed nail of the
society .woman. But. she who weaVs the
pointed nail must taka tho time to keep
it exact.
The nails should be worn as long as pos-
Blble. They really cannot be too long.
They sh.ould>j>roject beyond the finger
tips, just so as to give them a tapering
appearance, -and the .cuticle should be
pulled low at the base to give them a
"moon." - ,
There was once a time when the woman
who went to be manicured was accused
of extravagance, and when the man who
patronized the manicure's chair was voted
a fop. But that time has gone by. Now
the woman who never manicures is hope
less, and the man who does not Indulge
In occasional visits to a manicuring es
tablishment runs the risk of being badly
The beauty of the hand depends largely
upon the prettiness of the nails. Two
features Influence the nails. First, their
length; second, their shape. Coloring en
ters into it a little, but not much.
Pretty Nails.
Among the men the possession of good
hands is unusual, yet when found it is
delightful. King Leopold of the Belgians
has long, handsome hands and his con
quests have been attributed to them.
King Edward VII has fat. stubby fingers,
which are, however, always highly mani
cured; and Prime Minister Salisbury
boasts the finest hands in England.' But
such cases are rare among the masculine
sex, and it is to the women that the high
care of the hands is left.
Blavatski was noted for her conquests.
She had an impossible face and a heavy
figure, yet her hands were lovely to be
hold. The Frincess Chimay has remark
ably fine hands and Qleo de Merode num
bers her fingers as her charms.
And in some ways the hand takes prece
dence of the face.' An ugly hand has often
driven tack admiration; and a hand that
was not well kept has stifled the word of
praise and the sight of appreciation.
What more effective weapon has a
woman than her hand? If shapely, soft,
well turned and well cared for, It Is un
doubtedly the most powerful of all aids
to beauty, aside from the face itself. , #
With *a wave of her hand Josephine
Beauharnals brought Napoleon to her
side. She had lost her pet pug and he
rescued i{for her. He afterward said
It was the extreme fairness of that mem
ber, that supple little hand, that first
subjugated him and made him captive to
Josephine's charms. •
they will look colorless, listless and ex
pressionless. One ought never to let the
eyes get tired; when they do bathe them
with warm water and go to bed.
ing the hands rub the nails very lightly
over the cake of soap and. In washing,
wash out the soap from underneath. Thi3
is worth an hour of scraping and doe*
not Injure the Inner surface.
With a little care exercised In the mat
ter of cleaning the nail, the whole will
soon begin to grow pinkish toward the
tip; and that white edge will disappear.
As for the "moon" at the base of the
nail It can only be brought out by coax
ing. Usually the first attempt to force
the moon forth will result in great un
sightly white spots along the base of tha
nail, which must grow out before they
can be removed.
White spots are sears and are always
produced by an Injury to the base of the
. nail. Very often the injury is done with
the orange wood stick, again it is the
work of the cuticle knife. The nail at its
base Is very soft and, if pressed upon,
will be Injured and a white spot will re
sult. This is the secret of so many dis
figured finger nails, such as are often
found upon the fingers of the most fasti
dious women.
How to Manicure.
Manicuring Is a simple operation and
one that can be performed at home, if
preferred, or if economy Is any motive.
It should not be done oftener than
twice a week at most, as nothing Injures
the nail as much as frequent clipping and
cutting. The work of the manicure dur
ing the week Is very simple and consists
merely In loosening the flesh at the base
of the nail and in polishing the nail into
When manicuring begin by soaking the
fingers in lukewarm water. It Is surpris
ing- how large a part this plays in tho
process yet how often it 13 neglected. A
certain woman who is noted for her pretty
pink tips cultivated the habit of soaking
one hand in water fifteen minutes, read-
Ing the while. She then lays aside her
book and finishes the manicuring of the
The other hand Is then treated In th«
same way with the preliminary fifteen
minutes' soaking and the result Is some
thing that is worth while.
Few people realize that, in dealing withN
the nail, they are really dealing with aj
substance that Is pliable; tho nail can beJ
softened by soaking and It can then be
almost molded into the right shape, while
the color is easily changed when the Bur
face is thus softened.
After the finger tips have been soaked
fifteen minutes it Is time to clip away
the ragged bits of cuticle. Do not cut off
the cuticle in strips, as is the custom with
so many. Let It remain on. It will hard
en when the hands get dry and will really
protect the pretty mcon.
The Cuticle Knife.
Keep pushing back the skin and dip off
only such portions as appear to be ragged.
Sometimes the cuticle scissors are not
necessary and. if so. It is an Indication
that the hands are in very excellent con
dition indeed.'
Then comes the shaping of the nail. Use
your judgment as to the shape, but do
not make the mistake of clipping it close
ly at the sides. Leave the sides as high
as you can, for this high nail supports the
finger ends and keeps them from getting
thick. Yon will find: that, where the cor
ners of the nails are cut away, the finger
invariably sags, lacking the necessary
support. The taper finger tip is the ona
whose nail is not cut away at the cor
It Is a good thing if the nail can be a
third longer than it Is wide. There are
those who admire a nail twice as long as
it is wide. If the cuticle can be trained to
grow dawn and expose the moon this pro
portion is a good one. The moon should
be plainly visible, and should be of that
soft delicate color always found In a
healthy nail..
Now when the nails are shaped, comes
the time for coloring them. If you like
pink nails you can use a little nail rouge.
This Is a red salve which is rubbed in-
Very little should be used. Touch tha
A tin"er to the salve and "dub" each nail
slightly with It. touching it in the middle.
Do not let it get under the skin, for it la
The powder comes last. And about this
there is some difference of opinion. Just
now the brilliant nail is not so fashion
able yet it is so pretty that one cannot'
condemn it. Women of society are wear-
Ing It and very many stage women.
The High Polish.
Those who do not want a polish can
be content with washing off the rouge and
with rubbing the nails in the palm of tha
hand Take each hand separately and rub
the nails briskly In the palm of the other
The nails now have a clean, perfectly
eroomed .appearance and their dullness is
on" of their beauties.
But those who want the polish can have
i* put a little powder upon the polisher
and go to work, rubbing the nails briskly
with the implement. It Is a mistaken
idea to put on much powder, for it only
<*et3 In under the nails and under the
cuticle while It does not polish them with
any more brilliancy. Use as little as pos
sible, and, li necessary, add a little when
the polisher seems dry.
Powder is said to make the nail3 brittle
and to heat them by friction until they
are liable to snap under the rubbing. But
with care one can Impart quite a high
polish without running these risk3.
It Is necessary, finally, to wash the
hands with soap to get off the powder.
And then comes a* chance for a very
little cold cream which should be rubbed
into the hands to keep them from chap
ping and into the skin at the base of tha
nail to keep it from growing fast and
making hang-nails. -^
The hang-nail, as It Is commonly called,
is the cause of a great deal of trouble to
many persons, but it can be cured by
soaking the finger tips well and by uslnf
a little vaseline at the base of the nail
after each manicuring.
Once learn the trick of a steady gaze,
and no matter how plain a girl may be
there is a sfmetbir*: about Ler which ov-
Gain this power of not moving or speak
ing and at the same time looking Inter
ested, and you will be voted a charming
girl, even by the man whose talk Is so
stupid that you never think of such a
thing as really listening to it.
If you keep your eyes up to their share
of talking you will' be spared a thousand
verbal insincerities when Mr. Bore dashes
up saying he is so glad to sea you, and
that he hopes you are glad to see him.
He will feel satisfied If you look pleased
end sympathetic, and your conscience will
be clearer than If you bad gotten off some
polite fib.
It is the advice of one who has had
much experience in such matters that if
you get into the habit of always letting
your eyes attend quietly io a
thing . fcrsst, you will avoid lots
of embarrassing situations. Suppose
you have been discussing Miss
Brown's hair, and have committed the in
discretion of calling it r"ed, when a voice
sounds close at your side, which to your
horror you think you recognize as Miss
Brown's. Why give a convulsive start,
a compromising gurgle or half-formed ex
planation or deprecation? You will be
wiser and safer, and more graceful, too,
if you just turn your eyes to see if it is
Miss Brown. If it is, your complete re
pose and control of your eyes may make
her think she didn't hear aright, in case
ehe did hear, and will not arouse her sus
picions in case she didn't hear.
You can convey thus just what you
want to say, and in a charming fashion
winch is bound to captivate him.
r "l have been hunting through the en
lire ballroom for you." Then he adds,
"And now you are not glad to see me."
It is enough .just to lift your head and
give him a look through level eyelids.
There. may be a time, however, to lower
the eyelids and droop the head; it is
when Jack says:
This is a big secret, or a trick if you
vill — never try to do too much. The girl
who makes a sort of plunge at a man.
saying, "Oh! Oh! Mr. Knickerbocker,
how glad I am to see you! Do sit down!
Oh. how are you?" with acempanying
laughs and fluttering of her eyes, does
nut make half the impression accom
plished by the girl whose eyes light uptill
ber ;ips catch the smite of welcome, and
whose hand goes out before she says just
•'Mr. Knickerbocker" in a voice that
means something, accompanied by a clear,
f.tiaightforward gaze which may "mean
something more.
Let your eyes follow the story your es
cort is telling— it may be awfully stupid—
iind it will be easier to 1st your eyes and
Jtace reflect his various expressions of in
terest than to pretend further, and follow
bit, with exclamations which are bound
to seem insincere or overdone.
"Well, of course, it requires some prac
tice: the directions, however, 'are quite
simple— -let^hine eyes look right on, and
thine eyelids look straight before thee;'
you can easily understand that a clear,
sieady gaze has a power to charm which
a shining, circling glance never can
"And by practicing this new way of
making one's self irresistible, I suppose one
Ioarsis to say the ten thousand things
wblcfc Adcison tells us it only occurs to
a man to say after he is in love?"
"Of course, provided you give your head
just the right poise— this, too. is impor
tant. There is nothing more graceful than
the bend of a woman's head on a well
poised neck. Try that bend— this is an
other secret— no need to move the rest .of
It is an important lesson that the two
have- learned, that if one would success
fully tread the path of beauty, she must
remember that eyes are not given merely
to see with, but to speak with, to charm
v.-ith. that they may be trained, ard that
nothing is more fetching than the
straightforward gaze, which indicates thai
a person is in complete possession of her
eelf, confident of her own powers and
strength, and does not feei the need of
looking hither and thither for a way of
"It is this. I am told that 1 must regu
late my eyelids, or rather train them;
that if I succeed in doing so. and gaze
out upon the world through level eyelids,
that then at last I am in possession of
the very secret of secrets for making a
dazzling beauty of myself."
"How charming this all sounds." ex r
claimed the sympathetic listener, who
was now really interested. "Do tell me
ebout this new art of fascinating, that I
may get my visual organs in training at
(Copyright. 1902. by the S. S. McClure Co.)
IT is quite enough to wear any one out
to follow half the directions written
now for making one fascinating
and beautiful." Angelique confided to
her companion. "I've tried them all, "
the continued. "I've used vaseline, gly
• erinr. lanoline, almond oil. cocoanut oil,
rose water and lemon juice. I have bathed
in boiling water and in ice water, in
tepid water and in milk and water. 1
have washed my face with the cloth of
the roughest crash and fairly skinned it, m
my struggles to follow out directions, and
I "have gingerly washed it with softest,
finest linen, as I would a bit of Dresden
Here Angelique paused for breath, and
pillowing her flushed cheek upon her
dimpled hand, gazed reflectively and in
quiringly at her friend, who simply look
ed sympathetic and said nothing.
"Now what do you think is the latest
bit of beauty advice with which I am con
fronted?" she asked, after a little. "
Another Evangel of Coquet
jy — The latest bit of beauty
ad vies is to look out upon the
world through level eyelids,
with a direct gaze — This is the
secret of secrets for making
one's self fascinating — There
is a time, however, to lower
the eyes — The poise of the head
must also be considered — How
to have pretty pink nails and
how to keep back the white
spots and prevent hangnails
The secret of the crescent
moon and of the brilliant so
ciety polish.

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