The San Francisco call. [volume], August 10, 1902, Image 15

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
WmTwhich eyer marks her mature luflsr
ment.
The Advantage' t f Bed.
At the lawn party— fo. it Is now, the
season : of. the lawn party — you notice
many of the shades of red mingling and
combining most harmoniously; in fact,,
this Is the only color which goes well
with itself. becomes jealous of its
Eister shade, and to get two greens that
harmonize Is very difficult, but with red
It is different, and all reds seem able to
dwell in one- family. , . ¦
Mrs. Arthur Page t wore at a lawn par
ty—an afternoon affair— a gown of peach
red lawn. It had a silk finish, and its
lining was peach red silk. The" lining, if
bo handsome a thing can be called by bo
homely a name, had a band of lace set
in across the bust.. ¦'
The Ne-w Blue.
The lace was the nlet lace which has bo
captured the feminine fancy, and it was
put in insertion fashion, from under-arm
Beam to under-arm seam, right across
tne front. The silk lawn was absolutely
plain over this. handsome. lining, and look
ed more like a veiling. - - •
The semi-skirt was managed In tho
same harmonious fashion, but In a differ
ent way. .Here the fllet lace began at the'
belt, and extended downward in panels.
There were six panels in the skirt, tho
longest being In tho m]£dle of tha front,
and : tha' shorter ones at tho sides and
back; then came ono of those great frills
around the, foot, side-pleated and trained.
The sweep skirt la so deservedly popu
lar that there is little chance that It will
.disappear this falL Women will go In
carriages and those who da not travel In
this fashion will hold up tha skirt with
both hands. . For the street, pale cloth
costumes will be worn and bluo will lead.
The Sartoris girls, who aro such beau
ties, and who claim so much, attention
from the fact that suitors are' ever af
ter them, dress charmingly this summer
in the pastel colors." They wear very pale
blues, those that are called light duok's
cgff, pale turquoise, faded ultramarine
and visionary^ blue. And, by the way, vis
ionary blue is the latest thing. It is some
thing like cloud bluo and a very little
like oyster gray. It Is a- clear-cloudy
color. .
Truth to tell; it takes an. expert to dls
tingush these shade*, and you look at a
blue and a gray and wonder which ta
which— which tho bluo and which tha
gray.
As tho season comes to a close, for sea
sons end a month before their time. Dams
Fashion gets more and more out of doors.
Tha lawn party which seemed too early
and too cool, too unripe as It wera, in
June, -now rages, and "at Newport and
Saratoga, at .Tuxedo and everywhere they
are giving lawn parties daily, f To have a
lawn party., you nead have a lawn no
bigger- than a pocket handkerchief. Your
guests , arrive and, are welcomed on tha
porch or In the drawing-room, then out
side they go to drink tea on. tho bit of
green and to tell each other how charming
the day and how delightful tho occasion.
Changing, the Sleeve.
Dame Fashion invariably selects tha
hue of the season as her own. She looks
about her, picks out the colors of natura
and then hies off to get fabrics that cor
respond, and this explains her vogua for
the fruit colors. "
At Newport they are doing a clever
thing; they are remodeling all tho early
gowns of the season to fit this last month
of summer, when fashions change. They
change not so much in the skirt and waist
as In the. neck and sleeves. At this mo
ment all the j sleeves are big between tho
elbow and the wrist and they aro big In
a new way.' The balloon Is fashionable
and 60 Is the mandolin, which is slashed
at tha back with the end pulled out in
some fashion. Another sleeve that Is
smart is the Robespierre, which has a cuff
turnsd straight back above the elbow and
setting out: in very brusque fashion, as
though It were a pleco of armor.
But .latest sleeve, the sleeve which
they call 'the Newport sleeve, is- ona
which is shaped exactly Ilka a water
melon.; • In certain , poses It looks Ilka an
eerg, .for it is pointed at ono end. This
>leeve begins tit the elbow and end* at
the wrist. . ..
The small part is at the elbow and tha
big paj-t is at the wrist. . It is made out
of a melon-shaped piece of silk, which Is
gathered' at the, elbow , and fastened oa
to ah .elbow ' sleeve. At; tho wrist it is
laid | iiT: little side pleats and ¦ fastened to
a "deep cuff of lace.
The New London Sleeve. ¦
The new. London sleeve is a little dlf-
hard in outline, jto^ there is^ nothing to
frame your featmes.'. \ .A.f
,'-'¦. ..'..¦¦ Tho ; Fluffy Sides. r .
Try the effect of. arranging 'your hair
full at tho sides. Wear it over tho. Pless
pompadour, which'- la a temple "rat," ar
ranged at each temple with" the -hair
'drawn over it. After "you .. have puffed
your hair wave It, and let.it set out
around your face like an aureole. Na-.
ture really designed your . halr^- in this
fashion, and It ; is only your own .folly
which draws It .back from tha ¦ temples,
where it is meant to curl or lie. • '
Put on your hat and let tha flowers
which are. put under tho alda, upon tho
bandeau, show from tho front, . ana'fin
ish .your 'work with a Delft I bow, at tho
back;- ,.' . ' "¦.¦¦..»'¦...-' ' x »£-'c] :
¦ You will look ¦ a different person, and
.Dame Fashion,'; seeing yq" •' will nod", her
approval. v'.' . >.' ¦ ;• ,-¦: ¦ ¦ ¦ ' \ ¦
.. : Fruit red is worn in the newest gowns;
Its color pervades the lawns and £hallies,
the : foulards, the batistes and ' even \ tho
'durable ; cheviots. . •. You'. 'can " ',-. trace . it
- thi ough tho "very thin fabrics which j aro
. to .be worn over linings,' and ypu^cah' see
It in the parasol. which mlladi •flings over ;
X her. shoulder" and which "frames'- her 'face
bo • becomingly.'. v I^s,ileep, partly; subdued \
V red casts a glow over, the complexion and'
';gives you".the..flush .which Tybu'waht^ to
have. . It 'Is not' K the poppy { red ."which
•'¦•'*-' looks '>¦ bo ' "blowsjr ' cnta" hotvday/ nor"; Is .' it .
the:; brilliant 'rose : ; which* is" "so ; suspicious
a tlngei.but r it is 'the colorjof health and,
| -in selecting it' for her Bummer shade,' the
woman of fashion has shown her discre-
ferent. Like the Newport, it begins at
the elbow, but it is a side-pleated affair
throughout, and it is not gathered Into a
cuff at the wrist. .
To make It In an amateurish way, tak»
two ' yards of chiffon side pleated and
gather or lay this chiffon upon a band ot
silk ribbon one inch wide; let tho ribbon
be just long enough to go around your
arm at the elbow. Sew this to your el
bow sleeve and let tho chiffon hang. It
will make a sort of angel sleeve, which
will 'bo very becoming to your whole ana
and will, set off your hand beautifully.
At lawn parties the study just now It
tho sleeve. Really, you see so many varie
ties that you wonder if thera ara any
more Inventions possible. Thera ara as
many sleeves as there aro gowns and
each woman " seems to havo Invented • a
sleeve to fit her new dress.
No modiste with any fashionable pre
tcnt:ons would make two pair* of sleeves
alike, and you will find tho dressmakers
running riot In lancy as they design tha
lewer hali <»t jcur sleevoa.
But the uppers of sleeves, too, ara re
ceiving attention. A sleeve upper worn by
Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont a short time ago
showed a wide piece of rose point lace.
It looked more like an Imitation laco than
the real, and the fact that tho roses wera
cut out bodily and appllqued upon not
adds strength to this suggestion.
The upper half of the steev« was laca
and the under half was leaf brown taf
eta, tucked. The sleeve was tho elbow
sleeve and ths lower half was not laca
with a cuff of rose point.
• A Trimming of Petals.
Rose petals ara much used in making or
rather in trimming summer gowns. You
do not buy a new summer dress now, but
you remodel your old ono so that It will
carry you through the remainder of tha
season. That this is an important thing
can be at once understood, for tha season
is by no means at an end, and gowns must
be made presentable for tha next few.
weeks.
Very often tha most important part of •
season comes Just at tha dose, for now
all have entered into tho spirit of tha
summer , and where thera wera a few en
tertainments early, a great many can now
be numbered and these ara much mora
elegantly gowned than thoaa of tho early,
season.
To remodel an old gown taka roM
petals. You may buy them in tha shops.
li you are away from hoxna you can taka
an old artificial flower and cut it carofuV
ly apart; take tho petals and lay them
upon your old lawn dress and sew then
in place. Do it carefully, for a cheap
trimming is worse than none. This is on a
way to cover up spots and an excellent
way to rejuvenate an old gown.
If bo please you, group tha petal* la
small, careless designs, and this is really
tho prettiest way to arrange them. "A
handsome gown, inissa shell pink batlsta,
was scattered with the petals of an old
silk rose; groups of half a dozen were ap
pliqued upon the skirt and upon tha waist
and upon the upper parts of tha sleeves.
It made a charming trimming and each
group was finished with a little ahlrrinj
of Lilliputian ribbon In pale pink gath
ered upon each edge and put In a circla
around the groups of petals. - ' .- •
It Is appalling to think of the '-work
upon the new gowns and absolutely tar
rifying to look forward to fall. Then tha
cloth gowns will be worn and tha ¦ work
must bo very carefully dona. ; ;..'
English Styles.
London whispers that the naw doth
gowns will . have lace Inlaid under tho
yoke and in the shirts. This means very
careful handling:,, for the cloth is heavy
and the light treatment which is posslbla
with the delicate mulls and sheer fab
rics of summer would never pass muster
on the broadcloths, ladies* cloths and
cashmere and the satin serges of fall.
But why borrow trouble, for each sea
son brings Its compensations- and, when
styles become complicated,, the manufac
turers very kindly adapt their ¦weave* to
the modes and you are able to buy fagot
stitching or hemstitching, cat stitching
and cross stitching,' all beautifully dona
by machine ready to be made into the up
to-date gowns of fall and winter.
There is a possibility that accordion
plaited skirts will return and a certainty
that tucks will stay In style. On the- new
cloth gowns Jhere Is a trimming running
up, and down between the tucks and very
often this trimming, 13 handsome- mnd
elaborate, though very narrow. ,
'It Is applied to the surface of the goods
and is one of the prettiest and most no*
tlceable features of the dress.
By Augusta Prescott.
If I you are a woman - of 6 feet — and
several society, women, including' Mrs.
They are tryingi to ruffle skirts and
women who dress In the extreme mode
have a , few of these ruffled skirts and
wear them now and then, but they do
not put them on as a rule, for the Im
pression of shortness la always conveyed
by the skirt, which Is trimmed round and
round, and you cannot get away from it.
Her skirt must be very tight around her
hips and tighter still around her knees;
end, below the knees, It must fall In lines
that sweep the feet and sweep the floor
and sweep i the ground far behind her.
That is briefly the idea which the appear
erce of the woman must give — the long,
sweeping length. . ..
And, by the way, no one can notice the
cummer fijjure without noticing its height.
All women must be tall and those who
are absolutely short are indulging in ev
ery imaginable device of dress to make
themselves taller. Eut "long" is a better
word, for a woman must look sinewy, al
most snake like. In her outline.
In Newport there is a pretty fad, start
ed by Mrs. Peter Martin, for wearing
fruit at the neck. Mrs. Martin wears a
few plums pendant from their green
Etems at her throat, where they" are
caught by a diamond bar. At her belt
the bunch is repeated. The plums are of
the red variety and fhey nestle in the
heart of very deep panne velvet ribbon.
From the panne bow there hang very
long ends that give the straight, tall
look to the figure.
Choux 'of Fruit.
Fruits are also arranged in the middle
of bunches of ribbon, ribbon choux as
they are called, and put on as bust and
belt bows.
Upon hats you see it, not In the tone
alone, but in the actuality. Cherries,
strawberries, raspberries on the j stem,
plums, very small peaches, little apples of
the variety known as"** 'love apples," all
are grouped and worn, or worn separate
ly, to trim the backs of hats or the sides.
Fruit red Is a shade borrowed from, the
ripe fruit. It matches the ripe straw
berry, the luscious raspberry, the center
of the watermelon,; the outside of the
pomegranate and the Ved of the ripest side
of the peach; It is a color which looks
as though It were awaks, a color which,
while not brilliant, is good enough to eat.
That Is fruit red as it actually looks.
It Is clear fruit red.
The new red is not a geranium red, nor
is it a tomato* red, nor can it be called
cardinal, vermilion, crimson or any of
those familiar shades. It is very far from
being the dark automobile, which held the
center ot the stage early In the? sprint,
and It is nothing like the crushe-1 straw
berry, which has long been known as the
red of summer.
FROM green to red Dame Fashion
has turned with startling sudaen
less. No sooner have all women
Invested their spare cash, and, ln
:Jdentally, their last penny of pin
money, in getting green for hat and gown
and hose, than the filckle dame who arbi
trates the modes declares that green shall
be laid aside arid red put on instead.
Astor's grandaughters, are nearly 6 feet
tall — then you can "wear these . skirts that
are ruffled or trimmed, round and round;
but if your height is 5 feet 2 or" 3 inches,
and if 'you- are trying to look tall, you'
must forego Dame Fashion when you
-nav& your sklrty made -and look after, only
the long lengths.
The semi- skirt is rather shortening in
its t-ffect unless it be .worn in the Langtry
manner. The Langtry semi-skirt is a fad
of .the. London season and Queen Alexan;
dra has said that she likes it.
Mrs. Langtry's Skirt.
First there is an' underskirt which is
very long and very much tiimmedand very
fluffy around the feet; then there comes
the semi-skirt or overskirt, which Is just
as long as the underskirt. After it is put
on It is looped or draped and the lower
half of it is laid in foldsaround the knees
and caught at the back with a handsome
pin. This is an absolutely new fashion
and one which may "catch on," to use a
popular phrase, or not, just as feminine
eyes see it. •
If* you want to make such a semi-skirt,
put en your best petticoat— one that is
beautifully frilled and which looks exact
ly like a dress skirt. Over this put on
your dress.' Now locp your skirt by lift
ing it up and pinning it in the back. Ar
range it in such a manner that the front
lies in place across the knees and tho
back hangs in loops. If you experiment
with it in front of a cheval glass you wiU
get the idea. .. >
The semi-skirt and. Indeed, all summer
skirts, call for a sash.
Three things which are necessary this
season with every gown are a bow for
the back of the hair, a stock and sash.
The bow for the back of the hair may
be called the connecting link between the
chateau and the stock. Very few women,
when they buy a hat, consider the way
In which v they are going to wear their
hair. Ther^ are certain hats which are
built specially for the high cpiffure, and
there are other hats that are built for
the low. . "...
The hat which goes with the low coif
fure has ends hanging in t{ie back, and
these may be little sash ends of ribbon,
or veil ends of lace, or they may be mil
linery flowers. The effect, of the flowers
Is as if they had been pushed off the hat
so as to hang a little on the hair.
Study Your Hat.
If you are in doubt as to the way to
wear your hat, with the low coiffure, or
with the high, then make for yourself a
bow, which you must wear at the back
of your neck. Let it be of black satin
lined with velvet, or vice versa.
Hake up the bow so that it has four
loops; a wind mill bow is very good; let
the loops point in four directions; run a
hairpin through the back, and stick the
pin into your low coiffure. . •
The Holland bow is excellent, and, as
the name suggests, it bears a Hollandeso
type. It is made of Delft blue satin.
There are four loops, two pointing to the
right and two to the left. Two of the
loops are longer than the other two, and
from the front the two long loops are
visible. They set out at each side of the
head and rather frame the face. ,
The face frame Is one of the most con
spicuous things of 1 this summer's fashions.
The hair Is dressed wide at the side and
the hat trimmings are arranged jto give
breadth to the head. This calls also for
a coiffure that is low, bo as to ? form a
setting for the back of the head, the neck
end the ears. The wide hair bow accen
tuates this effect, for the loops show at
the side. ".:,' '. . - - '.
If your doubt the becomlngness" of the
face frame, stand In front of your mirror
and try both methods. Arrange • your
hair once very smoothly, drag It back
from your face and put on your hat
plainly, without any attempt at the lit
tle ornamentations which are bo notice
able In the season's fashions.
Now look at' yourself and see how try-
Ing the style Is. If you 1 have defects,
they are brought out, and your face look*
THE" .SUNDAY;' CALL.
All Paris Has Gone Wild Over
It and Gotham and ITewport
Are E^pidly Getting the
Craze — Mrs. Martin Wears
Fruit at Her 2J"eck— The
I*angtry Semi-Skirt — The
Pless Pompadour — Nellie
Grant's Daughter in Blue.
15
FRUIT RED
IS THE COLOR
FOR SUMMER