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The San Francisco call. (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, September 21, 1902, Image 7

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Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1902-09-21/ed-1/seq-7/

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The English Keck.
DO you Intend to dine this season?
Then be up and doing, or when
the Bummons comes that dinner is
served you will find yourself
dressed not like the guest of the
year, but like an antediluvian.
Dinner cowm have changed greatly In a
elx-month. Bo much have they departed
from the estate which they formerly
wore, and the fashions they bore, that
the gown of last March can hardly' bo
worn this September. And, what is more,
it will require a deal of ingenuity to
rrake It euitahie.
Yet. like everything else In dress, It
ca n be done by the woman of taste.
Take for example that turquoise blue
eatin shirt waist, which was your pride
last spring. It is faded now, ptrhaps, and
it looks worn around the ntck. But never
mind. Unfold it from the bureau drawer,
where it lies in its t.ssue wrappings, and
proceed witb scissors to give it the Eng
hsh neck.
The English neck, you must kr.ow, is
rcund and just low enough to fall to the
shoulders, but not over them. It dips a
nitle in the front and a little in the back,
but it does not fail at the shoulder line.
Take this old satin waist and trim it
with flowers cut from lace or with lace
figures. You can cut them from renais
sance, perhaps, if you are clever With,
lace, or you can shear them from an old
but much prized bit of duchesse. If you
have some Italian lace in the house you
can gret good figures out of it, and evei
Irish lace can be fo cut and finished
along the ed^es that it will do for an ap
Apply the figures to Che siik in such
•way that the surface is pretty well cov
ered, sleeves and all. Allow the sleeves
to remain half-lor.g, but cut them off be
tween the elbow and the wrist. Lace
tou m m U u P 4 h id b d a^ SS U tie C T dS e ' H S?'
*l»™ f ™™ Ck ""^ bel ° W hiCh Wl " faU
bH u i^, !ow n^ eet m a ruffle ' of
00^,- 36^ 618 -, . ,. ». ,
•»„* , • c ? m P lete , 5'our English neck
, . 5 yji waist w "l now be a dinner
waist, rhe long sleeve is also an English
etyie, one that is much beloved by the
uucness of Marlborough.
Jake the matter of the neck flounce,
which is to be such an important one
this season This flounce absolutely
cfcanges any bodice. It comes in a nun
cred diricrent forms and is made of
countless materials. To own half a dozen
r.tindsonae neck flounces is not an expen
elve matter and for the woman who goes
out,to dinner their possession la 'a thin* •
the value of which" she. -cannot overes-
Um . ate - "¦' : '-, i . •
.£^t&lTn* 1^*??! n^nJ n t^ r ° &t A
S J* il V n aS d^'lS? Ma£
P lea f ant substitute for any neck, be it
, Modes of the Day. ...
Nature may be ever, so admirable, but
there are few who do not find the modes
of the season even more becoming . than
Nature herself, and the very, low neck,
however entrancing it may be and how
ever alluringly Jeweled, is rivaled by the
new lace collar, with its wired stock and
Its becoming little gems. ,
In the dinner eccentricities there mayy
be noted the one that calls for Jewels/
that match the eyes. The "spots," be
they blue, gray, green, brown or black,
are matched by turquoise, moss agate. ,
emerald, Jade arid Jacinth, onyx, Wedg-
.wood and the 'fire opal, which, somehow
seems to accord with so many styles of
'beauty. The carrying out of this idea is
s «™^ning . that is particularly .noticed...
.h^'V'wX? 5g go^oi T e^ S£
be flowered I with prim Mttle bouqueT", and
will be a niching of the same, and at
the head of the flounce there will be an
other ruchins. .. : .
The Dolly Varden ' flounce is one that
is more familiar to the country dress
maker-than-to the city maker of gowns,
for It is the same deep ruffle which has
.always decorated the thin gown, with
its pUm little heading and its llttls . ruf
fle upon the lower edge. ' -,
The Dolly Varden waist ia very plain
and.is quite a. surplice In front. The de
murely folded fronts, meeting at the
bust, and the plain sleeves, falling away
WHIST players should take espe
cial pains to avoid any lead
or play which may tend to pro
duce a false inference in part
ner's mind.
When second In hand It requires ex
treme cautiousness to decide the extent
to which one .should go. In covering hon
ors without misleading partner as re
gards one'* holdings. It would be quite
difficult to adopt any set of' absolute
rules to meet the different cases arising
under the great number of systems one
constantly meets with. Therefore it Is
very important that - partner should be
given air possible knowledge without the
least chance of a negative inference.
While H is best as a general rule to
cover when holding an" imperfect four
chette, as, for example, playing king on
<iueen when holding the ten, it depends
•oroewhat upbn | the opponent's known
proclivities and the development which
precedes the opportunity for euch play
in deciding to what extent this, rule
should be followed. With but one small
"card, in; addition to 'that of ; two points
lower in value than the honored, it ; is
best to cover - the honor, but with i four
or more of the suit originally there". is |
at least one serious objection to. the play.
When such a cover is made - partner"
(holding the master. 1 card of the -suit) >
draws at once the natural inference that
second hand is short' in that suit Credit
may be given for the fourchette holding,
but as a general thing no dependence can
be placed upon this possibility. • •.. ' - ¦
If partner happens to hold -four or more :
cards of the suit this impression' Is
strengthened, and although he may be.
very strong In trumps he will hesitate to
lead them, as to all appearances he will,
be elmply exhausting, trumps for the ad
versary's- benefit. In-^addition' there is
this consideration to be borne in mind by r
the second hand ¦ in . the case of .a queen
lead: If the opening Is from the holding of
a queen, knave and one low, : or queen,
knave, nine and one or more, .the advan
tage of a possible tenace over the leader
is given up, If queen is covered. After
. duly considering the losses and gains ex
; perts ! have arrived at the opinion that
aside from ' covering when :,a. perfect
fourchette is , held . (a ' correct play),
-it .Is. not .best' to cover an : 1' honor
with .an honor lower than ace
from" a holding of" more than three
cards, even though the fourchette Is with
in •! one point of perfect, with this excep
tion:"- When a supporting. ca!rd is led to
the second adversary's declared strength
a cover, from a greater length than three
may be necessary to Insure -at least one
trick in the suit. The question of covering
may often be determined by the desira
bility ,of the lead; also by the importance
;of temporary, retention of the honor as a
re-entry card, or the saving of . an ace for
partner,, by; covering, for example, queen
with king. These and similar, objects to
into the flowing sleeve, all show the
marked peculiarities of the dress of the
original Dolly Varden.
The Folded Fronts. •
In speaking of the surplice, one under
stands .tha<. the precise and priestly front,
with all its purity of outline, is not meant,
but the surplice as it is now found,- since
it has departed from = its original design.
All waists that fold across the front are
called surplice -waists, and even the-Puri
tan, which is. made of folded taffeta,- com--
Ing across. the bust in avery noat arid pre
cise manner, is. called by that name.
Dinner -bodices that fold across the
front in such a way as to curve down to
an- open V at the belt line are seen. - :
- ¦¦-] A Princess at Dinner.
From "London are comings many pretty
dinner robes.' A gown worn, by the Prin
cess' Victoria' has 'a Corselet ;.front. -This
is made entirely of an incrustationof Jew
"els upon a foundation of white . silk. It
fits the buat nicely and is very deep, com
ing almost to the high -be^t- line. Four or
• five large Jewels are set in the front, in
The sleeves are immense affairs' of chif
fon, rather crispy and, very full. They are
. made over tight inner sleeves of chiffon
and on one slumlder ¦ there are a dozen
roses placed there so as to hold the Bleeve
. in place. : ¦ ' ¦' ¦ 1 ' •> '". 'l^-'.
- The bodice blouses. a little and the big,
¦ loose chiffon sleeves are caught
cuffs of .azalea pink . velvet, while an
pink belt finishes the gown. There
'are leng sash ends of azalea.
. It Is certainly true that the Empire wo
man will dine with us this season. Walsta,
when they are not, very long indeed.' are
gradually growing shorter. Particularly
Is this true of the dinner waist, which
'seems to be gradually crawling up to the
" place where the Empress of France wore
' hers.'!--' - ' -;-V .- {¦ - ¦'. - . j . ¦. ;.;;¦' \i
be attained require deliberate thought be
fore deciding one's play. -, As regards the
general rules to govern the second hand's
play It. may be said:;- Most -of them are
formulated in accordance with results ob
tained -by. long experience, xegulated by
the laws of chance. Aside from this, they
possess other' commendable qualities,
which at first glance may not b«.appar
ent. If followed; consistently, they will
prove trick winners in the long run. :
An . interesting hand, where the score
was • even though played different at each
table: : ¦ -„:."¦ 1 - - : /. --. ..• • -,
, North. ; - , -¦ \ • ?: .
v. H.-J, 9, B. X ''...-¦'¦
• ' C— -Q f 8, 10, 6. '"¦'¦ i - -
- jj g , Jl , , " ;
West ' '-,- Eaat
S.-10,6,S. 7 B.-A, K. 9,1' V-t'*
H.-K. 4. ' H.—Q, id, 6. i l]|
C— 9, t. ....._ C— A. K, 7, 4. •
D,— 9, 8, 7, 6, 8,1 D.— Q.'lO. , r
V'/,.- -<- : . Ci- ¦ South. ;¦•; ': ,'
-: ;'. "' ¦¦¦>- ¦; S.— Q, 5, 4.* ¦¦.:. '.-. 7 •
; . ' . ¦¦'' H.-A, 8, 7,. I. . : : .i'.
. ¦ ¦¦'¦¦ C— J/3, 2. ¦•;¦ :-•¦•'..'¦; : ¦
: - :-.. .< T>.—K,'Z:,l.:': ' ;'
Trumps) 3 of diamonds. . North leada. .
¦-"'¦ :." ; TABLE. No! L V \^' ; \."
Tks.-N. ; '.'¦¦'¦'¦'¦¦-¦ "':. .¦'E.' :: ' : "-: , ; • 8. '-- - W.
llr. 6o' . .... 4c :._ ' *Jo *"-:.• . Be
.2. 5h' ..:".¦ 6h'.-;. -. - 8h *5. ;:. «Kh
¦.3.-10O -.• ::..«Kc' ; . ¦; '2c-.' ' ' ¦• - 9c
4-->4d ¦ •¦¦:• •'" Qd' V. . • v, *Ad . ¦ 3d
5. .-9h - . 10h.V : . -.-•Ah,;' 4h
6. Jh -¦¦¦ ; -;i -*Qh: '.- .-,7h ¦ ' -3s
7. . *Kd : ,•, lOd ". . ¦ - Jd'. ' 6d
8. ; , Qo -. > .' " *Ac- r * .:'3c' • : .-' 6s
"¦: 9. : • 2s , - - - -i yj. *Ks ; .; ; '*-:¦' ¦, < 4s ' . ? .- ¦ 10s
10. -Js ' As "•• •."-¦¦; : ; "Bs ¦;.-. -' :«2d
11.' . 2h .. . ,., I 7o' .; ? :., ¦- ,Bd. :, /•' . . . »8d
12.. : 8o .:;.'," 7s 0- :. .-:.¦:; Qs -': '• , ' ." »9d
13.-< ,8s •;•*.. >¦''¦ 9s** ,:- : ;"; : >8h;:'^;..^:-' *7d
, : Easf : and West 9, North "and Sputh 4. .
Trick , 1— East's -.failure; to ; up with
-But it^is"the--silk dinner gown which is
to-be, the. particular -dress of . the winter.
'The " new.-.' silk's, have', been robbed j of their
stiff stateliness and;are now; j\ist suited
to the making of pretty-costumes. ."
One of these dresses was; yer.y ; lovely
in Its delicacy,, though it' was made" of
corded silk, rather heavy: *" '- •""•.. . :
The "skirt : was. pin - tucked front and
back, while 'the Sides' were fitted Closely.
- One of these'-dinne-r^dresses was a study
In the sheer combinations of • the-season.
Made 6T trahsparent.stuffs, it was white
upOnthe outside, then. < there - camera 'lin
ing, qf green, inside of which fell a lining
of pink, while under all, was one of white
again.- This --dinner. gown mirrored: forth
many.-pretty shades'- and had a curiously
changeable look. - •" ;¦• ¦•• '..-¦-. :•••" ; ¦ ¦
A dinner. gown worn by! Mrs. 'Peter Mar-"
tin, the' spectacular ' yqurig '; hostess of
Newport; was- lovely in* its.' color scheme.-
Mrs.- Martin, who was Miss" Lily 'Oelrichs,
and "whose, marriage, this summer was of
.worid-wide. interest,- is '{well-V launched., in
the society world as one of the foremost
entertainers. -Her dinners are pronounced
as finished as those.of the oldest matron
of the 400, and- her manne"r ; arid her gowns
are both .beyond reproach.';' 7" -• •'...-.. ...
Late Newport Gowns.
' This very , ; short -waist, "while 'it 1 is * riot
always becoming, is •very-^aptito ".be'ex
tremely pretty, and if. properly ; fitted to a
well gored skirt ' it- Is'one' of the. successes
oi'tnL- oea-iod. . ¦ ¦ ¦ ,-¦••'•.' ¦>? -.¦:'=• -\ .- , - '¦;; ' .- ¦-. • "
The Frtnch style of rEriipire isfcirt.is the"
best pf all. /This : ' skirt;. is fitted to the
short waist In a rie w' manner. In the mid
dle of the- front.there' Tire 'laid ;many little
side plaits, pointing/each 'way, .-.and.- the
same: method of plaiting is carried' out in
the middle qf the back. 'The -sides are
fitted quite tightly and the long ' embroid
ered skirt, falls straight to the floor, front
and sides,- while the-back is cut. In a train.
At a dinner given' by Mrs. Cornelius
..Vanderbilt there were present eight fash
ionable women of society and in the
gowns worn there were at least five that
borrowed of the fashions of other days.
So wide Is [the/variety in the dinner
gown f that it may bea Josephine: It may
be a Dolly Varden; it, may be a Louisine
costume;-it may be a- : Du- Barry; It may
savor of the Elizabethan days, or it may
be' a modern dress .with" adaptations of
the Vfctorian modes. All these are strict
ly, conventional and; the> most conserva
tive of dames can wear them without de
parture from the fashions of the day. , ¦
It Is a fortunate thingi that one has
such a wide choice 'of dinner gowns, for
the. dinner table is . certainly much lm- •
proved thereby. Where once the staidest
of dresses were noted now there is a
range which permits not only of a color
display but which allows individual fancy
to run riot and which brings into play
some historical knowledge of dress.
¦ The tendency toward the 'costume din
ner, gown is more and more pronounced.
The woman who has half a dozen dinner
gowr.s will be sure to own at least one
which, shall look almost as though it were
a fancy dress. .'¦ . , -
j The-, bodice; which .was made on the
shirt waist variety, had a low neck with
pointed reyers of Persian stuff and square
collar, bf -same.' - ' -». ¦•¦. .-. • ..\
¦ The-' sleeves, which were very -full, lhad
cuffs of the Persian embroidery., A slit
at the side of the sleeve had a big chiffon
puff pulled through it and the vest of the
bodice was in chiffon. The neck was cut
away from the throat, but was not ex
tremely decollete. %. •
. Costume Dinner' Gowns.
Around the foot of the skirt there was a
deep fiour.ee with pin tucks at the top.
Around the bottom -of the 'flounce was a
band -of Persian embroidery and another
band' headed -the- flounce. :<¦ •.. .!
Trick 8-rrEas.t's best play here la to
allow his 'partner .'to ruff the ' club and
come through with spades,' so as to give
him the finesse. The hearts' stand a bet
ter show If led up to.-
Trick 3— By the return \of the jack
South draws a re-entry from East and
establishes the suit. with North.,
Trick 5— Forcing West cannot be of any
avail, for he is evidently very long in
trumps. North might better have opened
the heart suit.
4. *K& 10d Jd 8d
B. Qc 4o .;.:•' 8o *2d
«• 2h; 6h .-¦¦ • 5d »9d
7. Js »Ks Es -103
8. 5h Qh «Ah 4h
A- 2 h /ii-" loh^f:." 8h *Kh
??" tI • 99 m( ** fa
11. Jh,. . 7c, ,7h ." ;:'.7d:
12. 8s . *As 4s 33
12. 10c. . .73:7 j 3h - »Sd
East and West 9. North and South 4.
Trick 1— Unlike East at the other table,
the player at No. 2 covers and his partner
commences a call, * the completion of
which the former anticipates; in fact, his
hand would almost Justify him irv taking
the initiative. . . - :
In new dinner dresses one notices mors
than ever the tendency to make the skirt
very long.", . " . '
The wrinkled chiffon sleeve is always
good, and it has the advantage of making
the thin arm appear large,- and what this
is to the woman, with thin arms only she
can tell. . -, , -.-
Inside there Is a full sleeve of embroid
ered and spangled tulle, terminating with
thf^ dearest little pink velvet cuff, no
wider than half an inch.
A sleeve which is decidedly of the ISM
order is charming as a dinner sleeve. It
is made of eatin and is very . large and
very loose. It Is extremely wide around
the wrist, being almost like the pagoda
B'.eeve. It is finished with bands of silver
passementerie and Is called the Victorian
coat sleeve. - - .
In the gowns of the Duchess th«r» are
very few that are Jewel trimmed. A Parla
modiste who made many of the dresaea
for her Grace to bring, to America la re
sponsible for the statement that of all the
American women for whom she has ca
tered this season none was as simple In
her tastes as the Duchess Consueldw
Another dinner bodice is In. green with
touches of black and gold and a little em
broidery In white. '
A very pretty dinner bodice worn by
the Duchess of Marlboroufh has sleeve*
of silvered chiffon : tucked all the way
down to the wrist. Below the shoulders
there were three crisp chiffon ruffles.
The sleeva was trimmed with little bow
knot3 of black velvet ribbon and In tho
middle of each bow knot there was a
button of silver. A ruffle of lace fin
ished the wrist. The neck of this |«wn
was cut quite low and was finished with
lace, bow knots of black velvet and little
silver buttons. •' ¦ . «;•.: . ¦
The Marlbor^g^h. Sleeve.
In th« dinner fmndeather* Is nothing
more noticeable than that which, call*
for the trimmed sleeve. Sleeves ar« so
numerous and so varied that women can
not bear to part with them and they arc
Been upon evening dresses even where tho
evening gown Is cut very low in th» neck.
And this clinging to tho sleeve la not
to be wondered. at, for the sleeves »t th«
day are. so very pretty. They ar« mad*
of every variety of material and they are
fashioned so delicately that on* can hard
ly afford to slight them. The woman who
cuts off her sleeves deprive* herself of
great possibilities In the way of personal
decoration. She takes away the fllminesa
which might be hers; and she losea the
chance to bring out- her txxJlc* aa It
should be brought out.
the king at .-this' -trick 'is '.difficult to Tin-i
derstand, especially in. view of his weak
ness , in trumps. .The deal .was opened
with the same card at both tables. • -
Trick 2^South' probably Infers that the •
major tenace is to his right, and so pre-"
fers opening an indifferent suit to return
ing the club.'-- .V ,..
Trick 4— West's cover at trick two
would indicate trump strength and hfs
return of what is "evidently his-last club
a: desire to ruff. "With, his all around
strength." East makes the safest play per
haps. . • .--.-¦-.'..-.- -..- L , ,-..,-
Trick 6— West can place the queen with*
his partner North, had he held it, would
have-returned.it. - . -
Trick 7— From this point It is impossi
ble for Northland South to take a trick.
'; TABLE; NO., 2.: "V
T*"- 1 *- *?• 1 S- * W.
L. 6s ; *Kc . .; 2c -¦" 9c
2. »*¦ 4d ¦ ¦ - od ¦ ¦ . • a A ¦ - fi/^
3., 8c. •Ac' ; Jc 5c

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