The San Francisco call. [volume], July 05, 1903, Image 10

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
along the lower edge with bands *f Cs*
•am**
dress embroidered In cotton -or a ttrr
much Blo«r gown. ~
came In vogue, and who before that day
wore white. . • . '
Black stockings of a changeable nature,
showing red In certain lights precisely as
some black silks show, shot-red effects, are
worn In the street by women of unques
tioned taste. And again, stockings : that
are blue when you look across them and
stockings that are pink and violet and all
colors are worn. .These are in good taste
and will be seen this summer every
where. ' *:
A street dress worn by one of the ladles
of Embassador Choate's family, was built
In old-fashioned seal-brown: foulard with
figures iti a deeper brown and white. The
beauty of the gown was Its trimming,
which was composed of lace of the heavy
order.. The lace which, by the way, was
coarse and filled with - figures, was .trim
med .with button molds which. were work
ed with silk. These dotted It here and
there end formed a border along th* up
per edg*. ¦: '•'..- ,/¦,:- I- . " '¦; > ¦¦ - : --: -,-¦
The use of the button mold as a trim
ming Is everywhere observable. The mold*
ar«» : worked in silk and various sixes ar*
used. When they ar* completed they are
placed in the lac* as centers to the roses
and as decorations for the scroll work.
Larger ones , are placed , along . the edge,
and if the lace be! used as a flounce It Is
luoped by means of the molds.
. How to Treat Lace.
. Worked • silk ' rings . are also : ¦ profusely
displayed In the middle of the lac* work,
and as • these ' can be bought by th* doxan
all ready to. be used as a trimming, the
labor of th* seamstress Is spared . not i a
llttl*.'k ¦ '; ¦¦¦ '¦ ¦.-¦'¦¦¦ "'}'"¦;• r ,,-. ¦'¦•;¦ ¦;•¦: .
And ther* . is ¦ still another way to us*
lace, or, as our grandmothers would hav*
declared, to abuse it, and that is by tak
ing the middle or heart out of each lac*
rose. ; In its place is put a tiny speck of
black velvet. This gives depth to Vhm
rose' and makes It very, pretty to look
upon^ ; . . • : ;. -j
• Th* ¦ strip* Is a . fashionable* thmg ' at
horn* and abroad. Th* beautiful - Prln-
The black velvet bits might b* placed up
on ths lace and appllqued there without
mutilating it, . but Dam* fashion declares
that the precious ' stuff, must be cut • and
the black velvet; set underneath . In \ th*
most ruinous manner, detrimental to th*
future of the lace. : '.' .:...[
"pistache. absinthe prf»n, chamnar'i*.
• pomegranate and bisque. Queer odd
• co'ore are suddenly flashed upon you a*
trimmings for the standard tones ard
where one leasts expect It a bright shade
ftrikes one in the ey«*. But the <oior
schemes are pretty and one can cling to
them and find them good.
i A New Belt Is Setn.
A new belt Is seen this season, and ore
reed not be a millionaire's wife to owl
**. It in made with two points— one in tho
'front and the other In the bick. Tho
front point is laid flat against the waist
.•with the point downward.. It lies very
trim and quite accentuate* the flat fig
ure which is the rtyle. The back point
looks upward and makes the back of the
waist seem fashionable, flat and curved.
If the woman who is hopelessly short-
Valeted will make one of these belts,
with the front pointing downward and
the back pointing upward, and if she will
make it out of material to match her
•waist, ehe will find that she has very
greatly improved her figure.
. A noticeable feature of the London sea
son is the use of the transparent ma
terials; not necessarily the thinner ones,
but the heavier sort. There are beautiful
crashes that show the lining beneath and
there are canvases which are delightful In
their cool suggestions. In the thinner
roods there are new grenadines and veil
ings that are very becoming and Inex
pensive, and Quite as durable as could
be expected.
Th* fact that th* crashes and the can
vases come In all colors and that they
c*n be made up over lawn linings instead
of linings of silk Is In their favor, for th*
*wntn of average means can Invest tn
•se or both without ependlnc too much.
BY AUGUSTA PBESCOTT.
THE London season is on and the
fashionable world looks with in-
I terest across the seas to where rep
. I resentatlves of the gay world bow
. •* at court and disport in ball and
drawing-room.
To London In the early summer go Dame
Fashion's devotees to see what is new.
and to London the courtiers and their
wives to be presented at that most re
markable of Bprlng functions, th* St.
James drawing-room.
Queen Alexandra holds evening court
and then there may be presented those
who aspire to recognition In the world in
which she moves. Nor do the functions
etop at the Queen's drawing-room, for
there are garden parties, receptions, din
ners, restaurant entertainments, musi
.cales and dinner dances— all the gay
functions of the world of fashion.
The streets are crowdec at this time
with busy choppers and I»ndon Is as
busy during June and July as other cities
ere In the gayest of the holiday months.
In eplte of the perpetual fog. the drizz»«
and the downright rain, the sun shines
a deal: and when it does shine the heart
cf the London woman rejoices, for it
beckons out the chiffons and the roses.
This year direct Innovations in dress
are promised for the London season ard
.ere bees the rew things come continually
peeping out. Among them can be coun-cl
the burnt \voc«l ti.f.cnt-- for which tn?re
If now «iich terrible r;ige. The,5e are zia
ply of wood, burnt with- small inst-u
ments in patterns, end the design is aft
erward treated with pigments to bring it
out. In the button line there are also thj
Tutch buttons with scenes from Holland
ra'nted upon them.
A Holland Season.
' One might declare it to be a Holland
reason, for eo many things are set forth
In a style Hollandaise. and a pretty style
Is the Dutch.
There is. for one thing, the roun-i
Dutch neck, the neck which is simply cut
cut In a baby fashion and finished without
nock. This neck is seen upon, oh, so
many of the afternoon gowns end is worn
much for evening by those who do not
like the decollete gown. It is the fad.
too, for the summer dress and, if you
would be right in the ewini you must
have a Dutch neck, rounded and finishei
with a littl* knife plaiting of ribbon no
¦wider than a straw.
Another l>utch feature is the wea-'.rs
oi Dutch Idee; and i.hls Is founi in tno
1-nens and in the silks and p"lrtic«.!%r.y
in the foulards. It Is the clear blue of the
l»elft ware and when the sun tinke? it
there seems to be a bright light in i*. !ike
that seen In China blue. It makes up
beautifully in the linens and can be com
bined with a touch of black or with a
touch cf white, or, if one wishes to be
very smart, with a touch of red.
While Londoners go to Holland for their
pretty things, Wllhelmina goes to Paris
tor hers. The little Dutch Queen is par
ticularly fond of French gowns, and, with
her Prince, with whom she seems to be
enjoying a second honeymoon, she selects
dresses that throw the Paris modistes
Into ecstades of delight, so elaborate and
Intricate are they.
One of Wilhelmina's new gowns is a
blue linen embroidered in roses, pink and
blue and white, a beautiful chain going
eround the skirt at the top of th* knife
plaited flounce. The blouse waist is a
mass of the roses, which are of button
size, and which must be massed to be
cren at all.
In an afternoon's stroll along the
Strand, where all go, the studious and the
pay, the quiet and the more elaborate,
cue notices the new colors specially, for
they are out in great numbers. The old
tones seem to have been forgottfn in the
maze of the new or.es and the standards
are lost behind the glory of tne novelties.
Pearl gray, wood color and corn color,
three of the good o!d favorites, remain,
but one sees them combined - witb
Belles Must Wear Burnt
Wo^fl Buttons and Brilliant
Tt&SßtingS, While Staid Ma
tress Dren ia Pink Instead of
Gray and Debutantes Venture
rcrlh in Hosiery of Rainbow
ITses— A Fad for Dutch Styles
rrt.^l: and There Are Round
Dutch Necks Upon Gowns of
Dutch Blue.
A crash that was beautifully *lmr>l9
was made of cement gray trimmed with
gray tafteta. The taffeta was used In
bands and strappings to give the tailored
finish. The drop skirt was of the new.
tt ugh Japanese silk, which Is said to wear
f«.rever. but which Is still such a novelty
that Its life has scarcely been fully test
ed. But being < light and pretty, it ha»
caught on in fancy's eye.
All the World Wears Pink.
Pink seems to be taking the piacj of
gray to a considerable . extent and very
pretty it is. Matrons who have worn Ihe
Quaker tone have slipped into pink with
out realizing it, while the debutantes
have gloried in it. Pink canvas makes a
very nice dress for nlorning or afternoon
and pink linen is a fabric that is much,
seen.
The utility of pink as a general color
has been questioned, many declaring that
It is neither durpbie nor becoming. But
is it not as durable as gray? Will a pearl
gray canvas afternoon dre-s wear longer
tl-en one of pink? And if for summer
wear, will jiirik not be as pretty as gray?
That Is a series of questions which the
modistes are putting to their patrons.
A pretty innovation much noticed in
London is found in the method of usins
the flounce. The skirt flounce has chang
ed to a degree, and while most skirts aro
flounced, they are treated quite differ
ent ly- t from before.
Thu deep lace flounce Is given a touch of
great elegance by putting it. on in littU*
dips. The flounce should dip here aivl
there at regular intervals, 'each dip mak
ing a point.
To accomplish this take your lace,
which should be deep and pretty, though
it need not be a precious lace, and cut it
1p sc-alloDS around the top. Go the full
length of the flounce, cutting the top out
in great scalloped sweeps. Now take and
sew the flounce upon the skirt. When
done the bottom of the flounce will dip in
points. For this a close mesh is better
than a very open one, as the top keeps
its shape better.
A flounce that trims a summer gown is
pointed in the same manner. But in this
case it is made of lawn with a narrow
lace edge. The top of the flounce is cut
in curves, and the flounce is then sawed
on the skirt. When the skirt is put on
the flounce Is a pointed one, and the little
"dips" set out in a very pretty fashion. .
One Nice Silk Pe'tticoat.
The summer woman should endeavor to
Invest in one nice silk petticoat. Indeed,
this seems almost a necessity. In the way
of a nice petticoat is meant one that is
all little frills and ruffles and which has
a veritable cascade of flounces around the
feet. A billowy skirt of th'.s kind sets
the drts? out well and makes it hang
much better than the # plain little drop
ekirt with its stiff foot 'ruffle. But. alas,
such a petticoat is expensive, and the wo
man who desires one may have to go to
work and build it for htrself.
When one does possess a skirt with
the billowy effect around the foot, she
must be sure to lift the dress skirt suffi
ciently to let the billows Bet forth in
silhouette. The petticoat itself is not lifted
but cascades and billows as it will. The
fashionable petticoat silhouette is a fea
ture of dress not to be neglected by any
woman with an eye to her good looks.
It is a surprising thing to note, yet a
true one, that stockings are growing more
and more vivid, and this upon women who
have been wedded to black since black
cess of Pless, wh,o does everything In *
way that is ultra, wears a dress of pluck
and white etrlped summer silk. The skirt
Is made very tight-fitting right down to
the knees, and the stripes run up and
down. This upper part of the skirt -is
tucked also, and the tucks are so ar
ranged that only the dark stripes ore
visible with occasional flashes of th»
white. . ' '¦" ¦¦¦•/;. '-'.:
Then comes the great foot flounce which
in this case is a veritable flounce, 'kne*
deep in front and a great deal deeper In
the. back. ' It Is made of th* striped blsck
and white silk and Is trimmed along th*
top with bands of black silk ribbon, and
The waist— and here the daintiness or
the French modiste is visible— la a mas*
of pin tucking, pointing- toward the front
with the tucks overlaid with white lac»
with lovely trimmings Introduced in th*
lace. There are lace roses with tiny
black valve t cent«rs and 'there are but
ton molds covered alternately with black
silk and with white;, and there are white
silk rings and blaele'sllk ones.
Pretty American Gown*.
But. take it all Is ail', the French
modistes do not excel th* American wom
en; and. for that matter, many will tell
you that the foreign stylet AT* not aa
good. For on* thing, they., ar* not as ao»
curate. \ • ••; ' . .
Th* American modistes have a way of
making a gown that is pronounced by th*
drees artists "faithful." .* They follow on*
motif throughout; and where there ar*
pintucked skirts there is a pin tucking oa
the waist; and. where th* skirt yoke Is a
separate fitted yoke, on » can look for th*
waist with fitted yoke with a'flnish almost
precisely Ilk* that, of 'th*" skirt" And so
th* American gown has Its Individuality
and certainly Its virtue*. - ' -•>
And th*r* ta another thing about th*
American gown that Is la its favor and
this la Its pliability. If one can s* style 11
Th* American gown can. b* mad* trp la
cheap China gfik as well as la expensive
flowered brocade and It will look well la
either case, for its lines ar* so good.
' So, In reading the styles, th* woman of
small purs* need not los* heart, for sh*
will at' one* see how sh* can take he*
own material and make It up nicely upoa
the same line* as those of th* more ex
pensive goods; and. with result* that art
almost as good. .
The fancy for artificial flowers) is grew*
Ing and it Is a very -smart thing t* w*a*
arltflclal flowers boldly upon th* oorsag*.
The flowers ar* frankly artificial and ar*
mad* of ribbon turned into a fat rose, at
of chiffon laid delicately In petal*. Was
leaves surround th* ribbon r*s* and for
a stem there are a dosen tiny strips of
ribbon, an eighth of an inch wide, each
on* with a knot tied In th* end a* a fin
ish.
A Cup Race Season.
Not only In th* corsag* ar* th*** rose*:
worn, but In th* hair, and very lovely
they look with their lustrous satin pet
als. Th*. wearing of th* artificial fiawsa
Is a fad, bnt a very pretty on*.
It Is to be a season of dress for tie
cup. Yachts are afloat or getting ready
and the season will be a furious on* oa
the high seas. Shamrock green and
American red, white and blue wave
everywhere, and already yachting cos
tumes are being evolved. And how deli
cately pretty the yachting towns are and
how easy It is to look natty In them.
The slender woman Is still the vogue,
but It Is no longer an attenuated slender*
ness that is desired. A woman must have
a decided shape, and .this must be dis
played In curves. . The woman with hips
Is ; coming * back again, though not the
woman with 'an abdomen. The woman
with 'the full bust Is also coming In style,
though the waist .must be small. The
straight front I» always in. but there ar •>
now several styles of straight front, and
It is ., possible to b» straight , down the
front line, though, full on .' the hips and
te the bust? \ • ••' *
Gowns are made to accentual* the back
curve,- and the line from th* neck down
to th* waist and from th* waist on down
to the end of -the train U curved, sinu
ous, graceful and lovely.. ....
' A dress made for a woman who knows
how to dress is in one of th* thin fls>
ured summer stuffs and Its price per yard
is In the few cents. But Its style is love
ly. Beginning with, the waist, which I*
a shirt waist, .there is a wide; unbroken
expanse, which is covered with whit* cot
ton embroidery stitches. There la no de
sign except a sprawling, conventional on*,
and the whole front is trimmed In this
manner. The waist. Instead of being shir
red to the band In front, is laid In little
plaits pointing each way from the middle
of the front.
. The skirt Is cut so that It gradually
"widens toward the bottom and the front
Is covered with an embroidered panel,
which Is narrow at the top near the belt
line., but widens considerably toward the
floor.' There Is no other trimming upon
the gown, unless one would name th» wid«
sash . ends, embroidered, and let *«"g
down the back.
Gowns of the season, whTl* not richly
expensive, are so delicately ntdt and ¦»
covered with handwork that they ar* eas
ily rained, and It Is necessary therefor*
for the careful owner to possess- a num
ber of boxes, each one dedicated to one
complete costume, whether It be a lines
THE SUNDAY CALL,
LATEST LONDON STYLES