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The San Francisco call. (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, September 13, 1903, Image 10

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Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1903-09-13/ed-1/seq-10/

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space. for the new art button hu.ltf
work to do. -
lime. Patti's Gown*.
Mme. Pattl, who is. the 'smartest of all
¦wellidressed women, has a way of turn
ing back a velvet cuff and fastening it
with a big handsome % button. • She also
knows how to -turn back'a.wide collar
and seta button to keep It in'place. Her
button collection is very large and some
of the buttons are very valuable. When
not in use upon a gown they are kept in
a Jewel case. ' Madame's twilight gowns
are of marvelous beauty.
The dinner gowns, for an Informal din-
ner at home when there is no one ex-.
Pected outside the family, can be cut on
charming lines and made of pretty ma
terials, but it should not look -like a
wrapper nor yet like a tea gown. Though
an informal 1 dress It has its formalities.
It Is quite different from a negligee,
which savors of the sleeping room al-
tucks, each tuck headed with a little
fancy fagoting. A skirt like this is with
in the skill of the home dressmaker,
who must remember, however, to make
the skirt very long even though It be very
simple in design.
A lovely little house coat which should
be in the wardrobe of every woman who
aspires to dress well Is made of panne
velvet. If you do not want to go Into
velvet you could make It of face cloth or
of satin or of , taffeta. It will be found
the most economical article in one's ward
Latest French Fashions.
The "French woman, without her house
coat would be lost and the well dressed
American woman should not be behind
her In appreciation of this garment ! It
can be made from odds and ends. A
pretty material from which to make it is
biscuit colored panne. Let It be cut short
and shaped like a cut-away Jacket, but
toning to the bust, then flaring a little.
The back Is very tight fitting and there
Is Just the suggestion of a frill around
the hips.
The beauty of the house coat is that
it can be worn all winter over the old
shirt waists of summer. It is cut low
in the neck and is provided with a wide
silk sailor collar. It can be cut off at tne
elbows and finished with a flare cut. Thus
made it is one of the prettiest of all gar
ments for house wear. The undersleevei
bag prettily below it and the throat is
made handsome with a lace finish.
That the summer shirt waist is to be
worn all winter is now a settled fact and
the woman who does not know how to
wear thin waists in the winter time must
speedily learn. She must get "on to" the
trick of the heavy lawn underwaist and
must master the intricacies of the little
house coat, which protects all but the
front of the waist and the sleeves, and
which is slipped on over any shirt waist
with stunning effect
. The science of the button, used as a
trimming, is something to be studied.
There is a great deal in knowing how to
use your very expensive buttons after
you have purchased them, and there Is
everything in understanding what not to
do with them. ' Buttons that stand like
sentinels in a stupid row upon the front
of the waist are no ornament at all.
Neither are buttons that occupy useless
"Where did you get the beautiful laoe
in your sleeves?" asked one woman of
anohter. '. ;,
"I cut up the best parts of an old lace
curtain," replied the woman, patting her
pretty house sleeves with conscious pride.
And this only goes to show how mater
ials can be used for gowning fair woman
this season and how every scrap of lace
can be utilized no matter what may have
been Its previous condition or servitude.
Fine linen, fine net and fine goods of
all kinds can be made into sleeves, for
fashion says that they need not match
the. gown. Big linen puffs may bag over
the wrists and .big lace puffs may bag
over the knuckles, regardless of the style
or kind of dress which they adorn.
Those who are looking for fashion
"tips" will be glad to know that the
beaded work which was so dressy and so
popular will remain in style. •
That yoke collars fitting closely over
the shoulders will be worn with a deep
ways, no matter how elegantly planned
It may be, and yet It has none of the
stiffness of the dinner gown.
One of the prettiest of all sights is the
shopping woman, worn with the labors
of the day, in a twilight gown, ready for
dinner. Her dress is a dainty flowered
stuff, making her look like a china wo
man. Her slippers are trimmed with fig
ured bows of ribbon, in the middle of
which there is a tiny but very brilliant
buckle. Around her waist Is folded a
figured sash and at her throat nestles a
wide ruching.
This same woman another evening will
wear the severe type of gown, the one
that is tucked as to the skirt in little
tucks laid all around the belt, while the
waist is made in baby waist style, but
toning in the back In French fashion. A
very- wide girdle, all in black, laid in
many folds Is passed around the waist
and tied in the back in a very severe
four-in-hand with very long ends.
Many of the twilight gowns, have laoe
sleeves, and, speaking of these, here is a
true story:
That there Is talk of reviving the cus
tom of dining In picture hats, and that
wonderful drooping hats are being de
signed for this very purpose.
That very large and very beautiful
mother-of-pearl buttons will be seen, and
that these exquisite pieces of pearl will
be trimmed with enamel decorations to
bring out the opalescent tints.
And that, while the main attention Is
turned to handsome gowns, the ey» roves.
nevertheless, toward tne very handsome
petticoats which are displayed In the
shops and which are made up with a reck
less disregard for cost or for anything
else except the beauty thereof.
The petticoat absolutely must flare
around the foot, and to make It do so is
one of the problems of modern dressmak
ing and modern petticoat construction.
Ruffles are set, one on top of the other, to
make the full foot flare, and under the
ruffles is set a frill of stiff silk which Is
warranted to keep the silk ruffles well
OUt. ¦/*.; ¦¦<
Ruffles are of all shapes, scalloped,
frilled, petal trimmed and cut in squares,
anything to make a fullness around the"
Dame Fashion has other fads ready to
spring upon a willing feminine world, but.
like Dame Nature and all others of her
sex, she keeps her surprises well hidden
and springs them upon the world only in
her own good time.
That lingerie hats an of lace will be
worn all winter and that the dressiest new
hat seen this season Is made of silver
lace, trimmed with very small pink roses.
That hand-painted lace 'and embroid
ered lace will be used upon hats, upon
blouses and upon the skirts of evening
That the milliners are busy trying to
raise the low crowns and are resorting to
various means.
That dressmakers are at the point of
mutiny, for all gowns must b« trimmed
with needlework and needlework of the
most trying description, fagoting, hem
stitching, smocking, French knots, trac
ings and coral stltchlngs.
That embroideries are to be used in
new ways, not merely as edgings, but as
trimmings, put on in bands a few Inches
apart, wherever the stylo of sown will
That the soft silk scarf play* a very
Important part In this season's fashions
and is used as a lacing for the front of
the bodice and for the front of to* little
street coat Large eyelet holes are work
ed into the coat and the allk scarf Is
laced through them.
That every gown must have Its cape
collar to be sometimes worn and some
times left off, but in the wardrobe,
whether it be always worn or not.
That autumn will see the high crowned
hat coming in and that the low crown is
slowly disappearing.
That It la absolutely necessary to have
a coat and skirt suit for early fall wear
and that the skirt may b« plain if pre
ferred, while the coat can bo simple Nor
folk Jacket. s
That the straight walking coat, com
ing Just to the hips and belted with a
loose leather belt. Is the nattiest thing of
autumn, and that this coat can bo of any
color to match the skirt or to contrast
with it.
That the straight flounce makes a very
nice finish for the walking skirt and that
three, four, five or eix of these straight
flounces can be advantageously used upon
the bottom of a street dress.
That linen must be decorated with small
embroidered dots no larger than a. speck
In order to be pretty and fashionable.
That scraps of chiffon can b« shirred
and used fs a trimming for evening
waists, and that the chiffon can be con
veniently disposed to cover worn spots.
flounce attached, lone enough to fan to
the elbows.
To b« very practical upon the subject
of the twilight gown on* can mention the
model which is made of cashmere In a
ehade of tan. a tan that is almost brown.
The skirt, which is of conventional cut.
Is long In the back. It Is very plainly
trimmed with four straight flounces four
Inches wide. There Is no heading to
these flounces.
Another of these pretty twilight gowns
Is made of light blue cloth with satin
sheen. The bottom of the eklrt. which is
very long, is trimmed with four very dean
One of the most charming women at
home is the Princess Troubetzkoy for
merly Amelie Rives. It was she who was
one of the first to discover the beauties
of the draped gown, and In her fondness
for It she was closely seconded by Mrs
William C Whitney and Mrs. Cleveland'
both of whom popularized it in that day
in Washington. Now you will see this
same gown made more conventionally
but retaining many of its old points of
Modern fashions have much trans
formed the Roman toga gown until now
It is made over a fitted foundation and
the long flowing lines are bordered with
Persian embroidery and there is a Per
sian band around the foot of the gown.
A very conventional stock of Persian
stuff and very wide sleeves bordered with
the same give an up-to-date look to this
The Roman toga gown is flowing In all
Its lines But its particular feature is
that it is fastened upon the left shoulder
In Roman toga fashion, while from the
fhoulder it falls away in long lines clear
to the ground.
The Boman Toga Gown.
The Roman toga house gown, or twi
light gown. Is one that looks very simple
to the eye. but It is difficult to make.
Puxzling as this gown is to the amateur,
it is really worth the while if one is go-
Ing in for pretty house dresses.
The house gown, with its flowing lines,
may have the high empire belt, and this
is accomplished by the mere folding of
silk material across the waist line high
enough to outline the bust. This Is an
old style, but one that does not go out,
for you se« it repeated in all the new
fashions of winter.
Never under any circumstances in this
year of our graceful fashions should a
¦woman undertake to tighten the belt.
Lace. If lace you must, from the corset,
but let the outer garments be very easy
in fit. This is the positive rule, which,
unless well observed, will cause the gown
to look very much out of the mode.
Another way to make the girdle Is to
pupp'.y a foundation of boned crinoline.
This is covered with folds of silk that are
finished 8t the back with little knots of
ribbon. The bottom knot hangs down
long, with ends that almost reach the.
bottom of the Fklrt- These are knotted
two or three times to give a finish to the
The French dressmakers Insist that the
girdle be very loose. They will tighten
the corset until the victim Is almost
strangled, but when it comes to putting
on the girdle this article is placed loosely
around the waist and its folds axe very
lightly laid. Its ribbon ends are loosely
tied and the whole girdle looks as though
It might be worn a great deal tighter. In
this way the figure Is given an air of
To 2£r.ke the Figure Slim.
Almost a necessary feature of the twi
lipht govrn Is the wide girdle. This la
made of any material and Is finished In
any one of a variety of ways. The
French are very fond of the kid girdle,
which stretches to fit the waist and looks
very neat. A white kid girdle can be
worn a long time, as can one of black.
The red kid ones are very effective, while
the blue and gTeen are decidedly chic,
worn around the waist of house gowns
that are made In the pale green or the
pale cream tones.
When the girdle la made of silk or vel
vet, of ribbon or of cloth. It Is by far the
best plan to supply an Inner belt of the
desired width of crinoline. This Inner belt
5s covered with fl'k muslin of the desired
Fhade, and over this Is carelessly draped
the outer pirdle
A trimming that is new this fall is the
pit •« e of niching two or three inches long.
A yard of ruching is cut up In three-Inch
lengths, and these lengths are used to
trim the front of the house gown, taking
the place of the bow of ribbon or the
bow of velvet.
The fad for ruchlngs finds expression
1n the trimming nf Indoor gowns, which
ere decorated with nxchlnc* of all kinds.
A very pretty ruche is the one that Is
made of si'.k ard Bhirred through the mid
dle. A little vine cf flowers Is run along
the shirring and the little flowers are al
most r-ut not quite buried in the ruche.
Another ruchlng that Is very popular is
the one with scalloped edges. This nich
ing is gathered In the middle and little
knots of velvet are eet at intervals of
three inches. Ruchlngs are made of
everything and are made in all sorts of
ways, and the wonder is that there are
frowns enough upon which to place them,
for they are so numerous.
Kuchinjjs and Girdles.
Since all women wear the low cut neck
In winter now as well as In summer, and
since the low cut neck is both comfort
able and becoming, it is well to cut the
twilight gown in a wide point In the
front and roundine In the back. This
open ppace can be filled In with a chemi
sette if desired.
r* jr T infly. when the dusk of early
( \/l fa!1 bf e in8 t0 dee P cn Int0 twl "
I y I light aiid the dinner hour ap-
I proachcs. puts on. not a tea
•^ gown, of course, but a twilight
gown! This ia a crow between a dinner
dress and a negligee, with all the beauty
cf the former and all the comfort of the
latter. Its particular virtue ie that It IB
chf-ap without beir.s common.
There Is a certain distinction about the
twilight sown which will be at once ob
servable to you If you will Btudy it. It
Is fo loose, yet so clinging; so unconflned,
yet to firm about the waist line; It is so
dressy, yet bo unconventional, bo becom
ing and ao stylish, yet bo free from stiff
ness, that It reco trim ends itself to the
world of women £t eight.
A certain society dame who occasion
ally allow* herself an evening at home
declared to her modiste that her husband
did not like her dinner (towns. "They
look too much like wrappers." said she.
"Yet I must have something loose to wear
after the social round of the afternoon."
"Then get a twilight gown." said the
modiste; and immediately she fashioned
for her patron a twilipht dress which was
eo charming that It became a household
Mrs. W. K. Vanderbilt Sr.. Just home
from Europe, a bride, wears for dinners
tit home, wh'fn there are no guests, a
charming twilipht gown which could be
easily copied. It is cut upon the style of
a court dress of a hundied years ago.
open in the front and worn with a lace
petticoat. The overdress is made of young
leaf green veiling, with knots of ribbon
end lace down each side of the front,
wh:»h opens very much like a polonaise.
Th«=re is a folded ribbon belt.
Literary Furor?
Well Rather!
the Famous
Author of
Chimmie Fadden
Will Make His
Debut as a
Writer for
&/>e Sunday Call
Nest Sunday*

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