The San Francisco call. [volume], July 31, 1904, Image 12

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
The Duchess of Roxburghe wore a
pretty gown the other day, its color
being black and Its trimmings white.
It was one of those magpie dresses
which are so liked abroad. It was a
Paris gown, with, plenty of Parisian
chic. The skirt was full and round and
untrimmed, save by a wide band of
handsome lace applique .upon the foot,
but this trimming, though plain and
almost classic in its severity, was all
sufficient.
. " The waist was a round waist, some
what on the shirt waist'order, flmmed
with three ruffles, which exteu Jed all
around it and around the upper part of
the sleeves also. Around the neck,
¦which waa semi-low— cue of those
round Dutch necks— there was laid a
beautiful collar ofwhlte lace embroid
ered with black silk threads, d rawn to
Imitate a beautiful daisy chain.
The Duchess of Marlborough wore on
the same occasion a lovely little gown
of old-fashioned white btrbblnet trim
med with lace ruffles, with abundant
hand embroidery running around the
skirt' above the ruffles. The embroidery
was very deep and was of the most ex
quisite order. The gown was worn over
a petticoat of beautiful lace.
In the fashion world there are con
tinually appearing new things or old
styles . worked up in new ways, and
among those there are many that catch
the eye at once by their beauty.
Lovely lace stoles, for instance are
Dame Fashion Is changing her plans,
but they are not abrupt changes that
will materially alter the layout' of the
coming gowns. Rather are they
Changes that bring out the prettiest
of the prevailing fashions, while others
that were not so pretty are obliterated.
Tho Gowns of a Duchess.
toward the back,. being slightly wider
at the middle of the back breadth.
And again one notices that skirts aro
trimmed with flounces that are straight
all the way around. They never grow
wider, nor do they narrow. They are
the little straight ruffles that were once
so much worn and which are revived
again in all their delicacy and pretti
ness. They are hemmed on the lower
edge and frilled on the upper.
¦ A Gown for Fall.
One lovely casino gown for fall is
made of figured silk. The background
is black and the figures, which are tiny
floral sprays, are in white and in raised
black. Around the bottom of the skirt
there are three ruffles of black taffeta.
TLese, instead of being strictly of the
ruffled type, are accordion plaited and
are set quite a little distance apart.
They are immensely effective upon this
background of black. And one of their
beauties is that they are very simple to
make.
And, to continue the skirt subject,
there can be mentioned, a very, full
skirt, which for actual beauty and gen
eral utility combined could not be
beaten. Its material was berege and
its color a seal brown. Half a dozen
rope shlrrings confined the hips. Then
the skirt hung very full. And around
the foot it was trimmed with three wide
bands of point de Flanders lace.
The fad for trimming cloth skirts
with lace, which started out as a tem
porary one, is becoming/permanent,
and the cloth gowns of fall will be lace
trimmed and lace ruffled. v •
A woman who goes to restaurant
dinners and who has many handsome
dinner gowns for such occasions is
wearing a gown that is made. of that
old-fashioned but ever beautiful ma-
terial, cashmere. It Is put together as
a shirt waist suit in three parts. There
is the waist, the skirt and the open
fronted coat.
But the novel part of thr-gown is the
skirt, which is very and is
trimmed around the foot- with three
bands of heavy lace. The lace 1b of the
sort that is put together with braid,
and is embroidered with fine stltchery
in the web. The making of this lace is
a pretty summer art. : SjSSi
Exquisite are- the collars which are
worn for restaurant dinners t and for all
occasions not strictly, full dress. And
not only, exquisite as to handiwork are
these, but very becoming to the wearer.
The lace collar, the lace stole, the wide
lace ruffle, which' is .laid around the
throat, and the deep lace frill," which is
thrown arcr jnd the shoulders, are all
an important part of the wardrobe.
Black taffeta dresses, with a large
hand-embroidered dot Wtjil raised from
the surface, are the neatest gowns th it
can be found, and what is more in their
favor, they are fashionable for all oc
casions. They can be worn for dinners
or, for luncheons or they can be made
up for evening.
The most fashionable gown of the
season is a black taffeta, with a large
black raised silk dot. The collar is
made of velvet, as are the cuffs, and
there* are pipings of turquoise blue satin
to finish both.
Pipings are more than ever the style,
and to pipe a gown with blue and
white Is a pretty sure jtvay to secure,
fastened around the neck of little silk
bolero coats, with the lace ends hang
ing well down in front and a beautiful
silk rosette adorning the neck.
Beautiful squares of ecru lace, show-
Ing a heraldic design, are appliqued
upon the right sleeve fit the hand
somest cloth gowns.
Great swirling patterns in braid are
appliqued to the front box, plait of tha
new linen shirt waists.
Braided designs in wash silk braid
are seen upon the cuffs of linen gowns
and ur>on the cuffs of silk dresses as
well, for braid is very fashionable.
Shirt waists costings upward of $60
are to be found at all of the fine es
tablishments. $
Deep lace cuffs are stiffened with
wire and slipped on over the cuffs of
silk shirt waists and overcoat cuffs and
the cuffs of wash dresses.
' P*-etty Fads of Dama Fashion.
Girdles are made of silk which Is
stiffened and cut to a point in the mid
dle of the front. This girdle is hand
embroidered and showscithe loveliest
of green flowers to ma£ch the green
trimmings of hat and go<wn.
Brown, which has held its own so
well all summer. Is to be a still more
popuiar shade for winter, and both seal
brown and navy blue twill lead in
fashion's march.
The dot, always so fashionable, is
coming in, and, where there was one
dotted gown before* there will now be
a dozen. The dot. to be fashionable,
must look as though done by hand, for
it Is the embroidered dot"whlch makes
the gown chic.
Though it is summer time, Dame
Fashion is by no means asleep. She
is busy designing her fall wardrobe
and getting together gowns that will
do for wear in Septemoer and Octo
ber. The backbone of the summer is
broken. But fall •- near and there
mu<*be gowns for the cool days.
O*«e of Dame Fashion's pretty freaks
is the rope shirring. This is Dy no
tnsans a novelty, but the Dame of
Fashion Is treating it in a noved way.
She is setting rope shirring around the
hips and is finishing the shirring with
the narrowest little frills. These frills
are really too narrow to be called ruf
fles. They are, as their name asserts,
Bimply frills. They are no more than
a quarter or half an inch wide and
they are made of lace or of narrow
ribbon. Sometimes the tiny frill is a
silk frill on the bias, single or dou
ble.
And Dame Fashion has another fan
cy. She sets rope shirring around the
Ekirt half waj down, just about at
# *hs knea line. And here she places
ruffes three inches wide. These ruf
fles are very full and are hemmed
upon the bottom edge. Sometimes they
are doubled and they are also edged
with lace. This makes a charming
trimming for the skirt, if one Is not too
stout to wear ruffles. But even the
Btout woman is contracting a taste for
them.
In these days when so much inter
est centers in the skirt and when the
styles in skirts change so rapidly. It is
nice to know that one can take the
necessary precaution ror. being in style
for at least one eeason to come. And
this can be done by trimming the skirt
in ype of two or three ways— ruffles,
lace bands or box plaiting.
The very latest advices from Paris
state that the new fall dresses of cloth
and of silk are trimmed around the foot
with ruffles that graduate a little
"And remember that the season is
one of details and attention to the lit
tle things."
Dame Fashion Never Sleeps.
of cherry satin. "Don't forget that ruf
fles are becoming very stylish. If you
want to be ¦ dressy, make your gown
all ruffles. That is the way to be in
the very height of style. ,
How to make the lovely afternoon
dress *r£Jch can be worn to restau
rant dinner, a ladies* lunchr^vn, a re
ception, or upon a nice calling expe
dition — An up-to-date casino and res
taurant dinner costume is the very
latest addition to every woman's
wardrobe.
By Augusta Prescott.
THERE they lay, sidc c by side,
ready to be packed in a trunk.
Gowns to be worn all the year:
An£ there stood the trunk,
"Wilt to Ct^the. gowns, made to order,
just the right length and Just the right
width, with a place in the top for the
hats that matched tht gowns.
They were casino gowns, all of them!
And all were to be packed arid shipped
away to the mountains. The fashiona
ble woman who had order^I them was
waiting to wear them ar.<?. »he gowns
were already late in the delivery, for
they were for th<* middle season.
"It makes no difference how late they
are," said the modiste with a shrug.
"For thl/ are built to x)e worn all the
yeai around. They are just as pretty
in the wl&^er as in the summer . and
just exactly as suitable in the fall as
in the spring.
"That is the way with the new
gov/ns. They must be made to wear
all this season and all -aext Eeason. A
gown that is for summer only would
have a very poor run of popularity.
"The casino gown." continued this
authority, "is one that can be worn in
the afternoon upon the pier. It is suit
able for the board walk on afternoon
occasions. It can -be worn to garden
parties and to piazza teas aim' it makes
a fine gown for a drive in one's Victo
ria.
"Later this same gown, if carefully
cared for, is tb-» thing to wear calling.
And, with a few additions, it makes a
very acceptable reception '* gown. Its
usefulness is not limited to a single
season, for it is a gown that lasts over!
"To be more specific, so that you can
understand how perfectly this can be
done, you must hear about one of these
dresses. It is a gray canvas of the
shade of gray that never goes out of
style. It is almost a silver gray and
the Ekirt Is very full. It Is tucked
around the hips and around . the foot
there are three little tucks. The style
is one that will not go out this season.
"Now comes the pretty part of the
skirt. There is a yoke of Irish crochet
lace, heavy and dyed gray, the exact
shade of the gown. The yoke is ad
justable and is fastened^ around the
waist by a belt which is put on«>fter
the ekirt is on.
A Gown for All Seasons.
"When the wearer bo desires, she can
leave off this hip yoke of lace, or can
Eubstitute one of black . lace, thus
transforming the gown without de
tracting anything from its 6tyle.
"Or Ehe can do still better. She can
apply a deep hip yoke of lace through
which ehe can thread ribbons, this
making one of those new hip yokes, all
threaded with narrow bands, of £Jack,
immensely pretty and stylise.
"The waist has a round blouse, shir
red across the yoke with heavy rope
Khlrrings and finished with a yoke of
Irish crochet trimmed with long motifs
of lace. La^e rosettes with turquoise
centers were arranged down the front.
"Don't forget, when you are planning
your casino gown, to nQke it adjust
able, that is to make it so it can be
tronsformed from one kind of a gown
to another. Let the trimmings be of
the sort that can be removed and other
ones substituted.
"If I were a woman of fashion." said
this modiste with much emphasis. "I
would insist that my gowns be all
made on the very pretty semi-dress
style, for then one always looks nice,
and one -an always be Bure of having
a gown to wear. This is the secret of
nice dressing. Never maLe anything
that looks plain or common, for you
may be sure that you will look plain
and common when you are dressed in
!L You cannot expect your personality
to excuse a gown whose lines are bad.
"And another thing." said the dress
maker, pausing to pick up and spread
out a lovely little taffeta dress of blue
and white check, trimmed with bands
Or take the tight, old-fashioned ltt»
tie wrist cuff and cut it off. Gather
the sleeve and pull the pucker stlnjt
tight so that the sleeve Is gathered a
little below the elbow. Now makd a
long tight fitting cuff and set" It into
the sleeve. This cuff must bell a lit
tle over the hand and be finished wlta
a lace frill.
There is a new style of neck flnfaa
which is very much liked. It looks
very much like a collar, and. indeed,
it is such. But, Instead of being cut
square In sailor fashion, it Is cut In
two long deep points in front that
come down almost to the belt line.
These points are edged with Valen
ciennes lace, which goes all the way
around the collar. There are Ions
deep points upon the shoulders that
come down over the sleeve quite t« the
elbow. The back Is finished in a point.
This is charming carried out In plecs
lace.
Handsome Waists of White Lace.
Very handsome autumn waists are
made of liberty satin and these waists
are not necessarily expensive. They
may be In a deep shade of oyster white,
trimmed with pale white lace, and
finished with applications of lace of a
deep shade of ecru.
It is very fashionable to make lace
waists of half a dozen shades of white
lace and to use the lace aa one would
use flounces of silk, with one flounce
faljing over the other. • :n.
in a shade of lemon white, is
appllqued witn medallions ; of lace In
blue-white, while the whol* is em
broidered In stitches tnat are In a
shade of pearl. This gives several
shades of white and makes the waist
much smarter than If It were all of a
single tone.
It is very «rcart, indeed, to fasten
your white girdle with small black
velvet buttons. Set a double row of
these buttons at the side and hook
your girdle invisibly underneath. A
white satf-* stock Is secured in the
same manner, by invisible fastenings.
with double rows of black velvet but
tofi!* at each aide o* the stock.
Don't forget the little touch of
black upon all fall gowns.- It ia ab
solutely necessary for the style of the
gown. Tiny black velvet buttons are
very becoming to nny dress.
Deep black silk cuffs with wide
white lingerie frills are about the
smartest things In the cuff line and
they give the touch of black and white
so necessary to any gown, no matter
what its color.
The glfl who wants to be very chl©
will put In her spare time making
wheels of lace and wheels of silk, Let
the wheels be about the size of a sil
ver dollar, and in the middle of *ac>
set a small button. The 'ace wh*eia
have In the center another little whMl
of lice, and for evening It is. the thing
to place the tiniest button rose In th*
middle of the lace wheel.
S Don't forget the saving grace of a
colored medallion of silk. A woman
whose ecru voile suit was on the varr*
of collapse brought it back to Uf» and
beauty, by applying light blue wlk em*
pieceruents to the bolero Jacket. 8h«
set *ix of these on each side of th»
jack-jt, and she placed six around th*
back, so as to border the edge. Then
she 'added a few to the skirt, outlining
a hip yoke. This gown, worn with a
blue shirtwaist and a blue hat, was
very fetching.
This is a halcyon day for tha rrtaJca*
of sleeves. Take your old sleeves and
cr { * off the cuffs. Now fasten In a
lingerie cuff, where once the silk cofS
was, and you will have a very pretty
frill for the hand.
its general style. The lltle line of white
gives It the required note of color.
One gown of a lovely shade of brown,
perhaps a yellow brown, had Its ruf
fles. Its bias bands. Us frlll3 and Its
stock. Its collar and Its cuffs all piped
with coral red, at the edge of which
v here was a very narrow line of white.
Don't forgetCthe Importance of piping
If you want a pretty gown, and let
there be > tracing of white.
And here. Is an Important thins to
remember, also: Let there be some em
brqidery o^lace application upco your
ar.ernoon "Wrt waists.
Take yotir 0 wal3t of black crepe da
chine and purchase for It two yards of
white lace In heavy leaf pattern, with
email raised white flowers. Set a pane:
down the front from the neck, to the
belt. Then place a band of It across
the yoke in such a way that the trim
ming will extend over the shoulders
and down on the sleeves. Let the cuffs
and the stock be trimmed In the tam*
manner.
For the Very Chlo GIrL
THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL*.
THE CASINO GOWN IS NOW THE FAD
12