The San Francisco call. [volume], October 16, 1904, Image 10

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
The race for blue and white which
has swe^t over London was given its
impetus by the pretty hat and waist
worn by the American Countess and
to-day in London there la nothing that
compares in popularity with turquoise
blue and cream color. A cream white
lace or lace of an Ivory white Is made
up into waista for afternoon and even
ing and with this ivory colored lace
feathers were in pale brown and white
It was the Counte-s of Yarmouth
who, on going to the theater for the
first time in London, after her mar
riage, selected turquoise blue and
white. She wore a big hat. all chiffon
and feathers. The brim was round and
rolling: upward and it was covered with
lace. Her waist was a thin white lawn
over a blue lining. A few stitches of
blue silk were drawn through the lace
of the waist.
short. "Use up your odds and ends
of fur" is the advice of .'the furriers.
It'is a year when the! furrier is will
ing to serve you in very obliging ways.
He is willing to make a change of furs
for you. He will so cut and snape your
odd bits that you can have not stole,
but two or three or four, all different,
and all made to match your winter
costume.
A woman who had a brown suit took
enough old moleskin to make a little
stole. It was to be of a little flat va
riety, not very wide, and crossing In
side of the collar can be blue, put on In
a mariner to slightly show; j Thus ¦ the
coat; and the gown are brought into
harmony.
But where .possible the gown should
be brown,, because it matches so many
furs 'so well. Brown goes beautifully
with .sable; it Is very handsome with
seal; it is a delightful color to use with
the covert cat furs that are so fashion
able this year, and brown is the best of
all shades to combine with mink. Next
to brown comes green, then gray, then
black, then blue.
To relieve the sameness of brown
fur and brown cloth there can ba
enamel buttons and there can be or
namental cords and tassels, and these
can show white and blue cunningly
interlaced. There can be passeriien
tertes with scarlet and blue and white
all • intertwined. And thare can be
lace and embroidery, though the ama
teur should not attempt to embroider
her own furs until she has taken a
few lessons In th« art.
• A ereat manv of the nrpHv fun ir\.
ment is not such a very unusual one.
A Handsome Calling Suit. . < '¦ >
Civet cat and the other striped furs
are too conspicuous for the woman who
has only one set of furs, j But these furs
are distinctive^ and striking and tney
are certainly handsome and dressy. So
she who has something old in the way
of furs to fall' back upon can buy one
of the brllliajntly striped furs for nice
¦ wear. ' ''
; The 'three-quarter fur coat, tight flt
i ting, is worn a" great deal and it is seen
at -its best in Persian lamb. With it
there is worn a stole of mink and a big
, pillow muff of mink, all trimmed with
; tails, is carried.
j \ Wonderfully handsome calling effects
. are produced by taking black uncut vel
. vet or black mirolr velvet and making*
j It up into a street gown. T,he skirt
\ should be round and full, wlth'hip shir
. rings. And the sleeves should show the
. new high ehoulder puff. There should
ba smart, wide turn back cuffs.
Now, with this gown, the woman who
. wants to make a great' showing will
wear a stole of Persian lamb going
around her neck and hanging well down'
the front. She will also carry a big
Persian lamb muff of the granny shape.
The effect of a black mirolr velvet
dress with Persian lamb muff and stole
is very much as though the whole suit
were of Persian lamb, with muff and
stole to match. It Is very dressy and
suitable for nice reception and calling
wear. • .
Sleeves are almost startling in their
originality. One handsome coat had
wide bell sleeves to which there was'
fastened a big silk tassel.' Another, had
wide sleeves with the back of the cuff
trimmed with long dangling silk fringe. ,
While a third coat of the three-quarter
variety had big open mandarin sleeves
with immense cuffs of white Llama
lace.
Irish crochet cuffs are no novelty
upon fur coats. They are frequently
seen and so are cuffs of antique lace,
though antique is getting a little out of
" fashion, for it is giving way to newer
forms of imported and domestic lace.
If cuffs show a great variety, collars
are positively multitudinous in style.
There are immense fur collars, cut all
With autumn comes tha matinee
girl and a creature of beauty she Is.
The first robin chirping in the spring
is not more welcome than this girl of
beauty. In her new plumage of bril
liant color,- in her handsome headgear
and her dainty accessories she is by
far the daintiest, sweetest thing of the
season.
The matinee colors are celery green
and golden brown. To these may be
added orchid pink, sweet violet, which
is a bright pretty shade, and deep red
of the color known as cranberry.
These go beautifully with ermine furs.
¦.The matinee girls also wears the
wine colors and the colors that make
enc think of wine. She wears claret
red, sauterne yellow, chartreuse and
absinthe 'green, burgundy and cham
pagne. The last is a very pretty yel
low, not at all brilliant, and Just the
thing for wear with either black or
white. Mink goes well with tnese
colors.
Here, are the distinguishing char
acteristics of the matinee girl of 1905
and 1906* She wears a shirt waist.
If It be a white waist It Is largely of
lace and Its sleeves are masses of
Lovely Roses Will Be Cut Out
of Sealskin and Applied to
Collars of Emiine and Chin
chilla, ami Moleskin, Seal and
Sable and All the Other
Ix>vcly I-"urs of the Winter
Will Be Used in Novel Ways.
Lessons in Fur Trimminjr for
the Woman Who Wants to
Use Up Her Old Fur Stuff.
in scallops, with handsome fringe sewed
along the scalloped edges. And there
are wide sailor collars slashed up in the
back, cut In circles, with lace set in un
derneath. You can* do wpnders with
your fur collar and still be In the style.
The very tall collars which, as the Med
ici collars, held sway so long, are quite
out of style, few being seen. The vogue
is for the fur coat with no collar at all
or with a rolling collar, which can be
worn with a boa or stole.
To say that it is to be a fur season
is making a very mild statement.
There were never one-half as many
furs nor were they ever -made in ways
one-half as extravagant. It is simply
heartrending to behold the slaughter
of. Innocent. skins, cut to ribbons by
Dame j Fashion's command.
The furs of the matinee girl are too
dainty . for ¦ anything. . They are light
ir. weight, light in color and they are
already beginning to appear.
lace trimmings running down the arm,
terminating in handsome cuffs. If the
waist be a dark waist — and many of
the matinee girls affect dark gowns,
then you may be sure it is something
handsome. Often she wears' a white
waist with a wide collar of ermine
around her shoulders.
One of the daintiest matinee girls
wore a suit .of tan colored Scottish
cloth, which is a mixed goods, trimmed
with chiffon broadcloth. The collar,
which was a triple collar, looking for
all the world like a cape, was bordered
with very narrow bands of Japanese
embroidery. The Eton and the sleeves
were trimmed with antique . lace. Cro
cheted dangles hung down the front of
the stole collar.
The matinee girl, while she is a
dressy creature, is never neglectful or
forgetful of the- harmonies. She selects
something, always, in the shade of red
or crimson, cardinal or. rose. The mat
inee girl regards picturesqueness as a
sacred duty and her gown will have
touches of that which 13 picture-like
whatever else it may lack.
One matinee girl wore a hat encircled
with deep red roses, heavy in color and
making one think of autumn. Around
her neck there lay a triple collar with
scalloped stoles, trimmed with knitted
balls and cords.
Another matinee girl wore a big wide
brimmed straw hat, doubtless remod
eled from the summer's finery, trim
med in autumn fashion. A big nest of
feathers was bunched on top of the hat.
The hat was in blue and brown. Tfca
fles are hand embroidered and these
are worn with handsome silk cos
tumes. The taffeta street dress is ex
quisite with an embroidered fur stole.
And the satin gown, which is so very
fashionable this season, is charming
with the little shoulderette of baby
lamb embroidered in •handsome Per
sian designs or with Persian embroid
ery applied to the edge.
Persian lamb and Its near relative,
the baby lamb, and all the rest of the
lamb family take embroidery very
nicely and for that reason one sees
stoles, little Jackets, muffs and collars
of all sorts and conditions trimmed
with bands of Japanese embroidery
and with strappings and buttons of
Persian and with hand work in Amer
ican designs.
Fur Is difficult for an amateur to
handle, but embroidery can generally
be appliqued by any one who can sew
at all. The method of applying is
simple. You carefully, measure* off
the space and purchase exactly
enough of the Armenian, Persian or
Oriental trimming. It is apt to be ex
pensive and one* does not not want to
waste one's money. . The trimming
comes, sometimes, in patterns, in ex
act lengths, arid you can sew it to the
collarette without cutting it : and to
the pillow muff in. the same way. This
is not. hard, to apply. : vv^/ . ..' .
. The popular cahvas embroidery is
used in the trimmings of ahoulder
e'ttes and pieces for the neck and for
the revers, and this takes quite a good
deal of taste, for one can easily spoil
a nice fur jj garment by lack of taste
In applying the canvas, trimming..
Cross stitch work, .though a noVelty,
as far as fur is concerned, is also seen'
to a- considerable: extent and the ¦spec
tacle of - a furrier working in cross
stitch work upon a valuable fur grar-
And there is another color combina
tion which is popular with the matinee
girl and it is a harmony which was in
augurated by another American woman
of title. It was at a recent reception
that the Duchess of Manchester wore
a wide-brimmed hat of pale gray felt,
abundantly trimmed with small pink
and white and red flowers. They were
tiny and they were massed. The en
tire brim was buried In them and they
were heaped upon the front, while
bouquets of them were apparently
pushed off the back of the hat.
As In previous seasons,- there is a
fancy for things that dangle from the
hat. Feathers trail upon the neck and
upon the back of the stock and stream
ers of lace are seen upon many hats.
Flowers are pushed off at the sides and
bows of ribbon planted underneath
the brim. Hats are .certainly smart,
and American hats are coming to have
more prestige than Paris hats. - -
The matinee- girl Is expected to re
move her hat and this calls attention
to her neck gear, which must certainly
be pretty. The girl who neglects her
stock loses a great deal in the scheme
of dress. The collarlesa matinee waist
Is very fashionable, and. with the col
larless waist, there can be worn a band
of velvet around the throat, for the
velvet neck band has been revived.
The ribbon stock is much less fash
ionable than it U3ed to be, but its place
is ably taken by the lace stock, which
Is worn almost to the exclusion of
everything else. Made of lace of any
color. It is stiffened, cut In fancy
shapes, worked with silk stitchery and
worn with any gown.
One of the handsomest lace stocks
was made upon a wire foundation, . one
of the sort one can buy for a few cents
in the shops. This foundation was cov
ered with tiny lace appliques and then
the narrowest pipings of silk were used
to trim the stock. This made as pretty
a neck arrangement as one could want.
They are cutting stocks out of velvet
with a little yoke attached. Pieces of
lace are then set In and the top is edg
ed with lace. Handsome steel and sil
ver beads are sewed to the stock.
There are many pretty neck arrange
ments, and the woman who wants
something distinctive will have no
trouble finding' a pattern which will
stilt her fancy.
waist there is a wide blue girdle, a
stock worked in blue and a big hat
trimmed with blue feathers.
Small Hints on Dress.
Taking a piece of sealskin, she cut
out a pretty vine, with big, handsome
leaves, all of sealskin. She applied
three of these brown sealskin vines to
the front of her ermine muff and half
a dozen to her , collarette. Then she
finished the ends with black and white
tails. The result was lovely and It cost
very little.
Your Collar and Muff.
You can purchase an ermine collar
and muff for any price you . want to
pay. A handsome set traveled to the
Berkshires for the late October season.
It cost $500. The ermine collar was
wide, and there were long stole ends.
The muff was big and fiat, a pillow
muff. Big sprays of fur flowers — flow
ers cut right out of black fur — were
applied to the collar and the muff and
there were tails, plenty of them. Tail
bearing animals are certainly in de
mand this year.
But these little Ideas are only the
very small beginnings of the season's
fashions. The styles in furs are really
marvelous and one can study them a
long time and learn something new
every minute.
One of the prettiest of ideas is to
trim one kind of fur with another fur,
and, in doing this, one can get beautiful
effects. If you trim chinchilla with er
mine; if you trim sealskin with baby
lamb; If you trim Persian Iamb with
mink, or if you try any of the other
artistic combinations of the season you
will get something very pretty, for it
is difficult to go astray in this matter.
But here is a .word of caution: Do
not use imitation furs. Or if you do
use them let them be frankly imita
tion. Seal plush' is lovely as plush,
but not as seal, and there are imita
tion furs that are handsome in their
own condition, but which become
hopeless when you attempt to call them
sable, or chinchilla or otter. "Wear them
as imitations, but not as the real.
Those who have scraps of fur can
utilize them in various ways, one of
the prettiest being the stole of fur.
To make a stole take odd lengths of
fur— anything you happen to have. Cut
your stole according to your fur. Let
it be long and wide if you can, with
front ends hanging down to the hem
of the dress. But if there is not
enough fur for this, why, let it be
The furrier shaped the stole, made It
up prettily and trimmed the ends with,
of ermine, upon WhlcTi he sewed
little ermine tails. One can take old
pieces of sealskin, patch them together
and make them into a very neat 6tole./
This can be trimmed with a contrast-:
lngr fur. There are very pretty ways of
making up a seal stole; with ends that
grow very wide and are crossed in
front. These ends can be trimmed with
big circles of Persian lamb, or of er
mine or chinchilla, or whatever fur one
happens to have. . t
Don't think that your fur must be
thrown away if it is old and shabby.
On the contrary, it can be made over
into something that Is pretty. There Is
no Question but that half of the lovely
little fur articles of the season are
made' from odds and ends of fur re
claimed from the ragbag and the old
clothes man. ¦
There are collarettes and stoles made
by piecing furs together so that they
are almost striped. Such collarettes are
extremely dressy and they make a
pretty change. They can be worn, with
gowns to match, for it Is the fad to
match everything this year. - •
Your furs must match your gown.
This Is bad Intelligence for the woman
who has only one gown and only one
set of -furs, both widely different. Yet,
If she be a wise woman, she will not
despair, but will endeavor to make the
ways and ends meet. ; .
A woman who had a gown of blue
cloth and a coat of sealskin is said to
have solved the problem by trimming
the cloth gown with brown braid, and
trimming the fur coat with blue pas
: cement erie and blue Persian. ''
There' come great, beautiful, blue en
amel buttons, which can be used to
trim brown sealskin coats, and there
can be bands of silk used upon the col
lar and the cuffs, the re vers, the; fac
ings and in the linings. ¦ The coat can
be lined with blue silk to match. the
gown, and the cuffs can be turned back
and faced with blue.
Big blue buttons can be sewed upon,
fur cuffs, and there can be a collar of
seal added to the coat; and the inner
the middle of the front The two ends
were' round and big, saucer-shaped
ends they are called.
Artistic Fur Trimmings.
This woman had It dressed. The fur
rier took it and washed It, for furs
wash nicely. Then he dried it, dyed it
slightly, to as to restore its color, and,
finally he cent it home looking very
much like new.
Then this woman, who is something
of a genius in dress, bought enough
white silk braid to go all the way down
each side of the front of the coat. Braid
Is hardly a good term. She selected a
whit* silk passementerie, as wide as
your band, with a few silver threads
running through it. The pattern was
a vine pattern and there were lovely
silver grapes hanging to it. She ap
plied this to the seal coat, making a
handsome garment.
Her flat muff she treated in the same
way, with a wide band of silver passe
menterie.
Then there was a girl who at the
beginning of this season found herself
with an old-fashioned ermine collarette
a?d a flat ermine muff. She took it
an£ treated it in a most remarkable
manner. She copied a handsome idea
xvhich she had seen carried out upon
the collar and muff of the Countess
Another set cost a thousand. It was
In ermine and there was a stole trim
med -with discs of sealskin. The muff
was big and fiat and applied with cir
clet* of the seal.
"Furs." cald a beautiful woman, "are
my background, my social framework.
I am judged by them, classified by
them and I must rise or fall by them."
That a woman is judged by her fur
coal there Is no manner of doubt There
Is no other one garment which so
plainly proclaims its cost and Its man
ufacture. The layman, the person who
knows nothing whatever about furs,
the most Ignorant creature in the world
can tell at a glance a real fur coat
from aa Imitation fur. And there is
no woman but can tell a good fur from
a poor one and an up-to-date coat
from one whose vintage Is of the long
Not that the old fur coat is to be de
•pised, not by any means. For it can
be beautifully cut over and combined
with other materials, or It can be left
In its present state and trimmed in
an up- to- the-season manner. •
A. woman who owns a little old seal
skin coat, cut straight and resembling
a klmona, front and back, has been
remodeling her coat.
THREE thousand dollars for a
muff and boa! That Is what a
woman on Fifth avenue paid for
her furs last week. The boa was p
cable, flat and wide, one of the sort'
they call a fur necklace. The muff was
as big as a hogshead, a granny muff.
BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT.
THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL.
BEAUTIFUL NEW FURS FOR WINTER