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The Picture Coat
Is Dame Fashion's Latest Beautiful Little Summer Coats of Silk and Llffht Cloth, aa Worn by airs. Lonjf-rrorth, Mrs. W. K. Vanderbllt Jr. and Other Pretty Young Leaders of Fashion— Pointers for the Woman Who Wants to Wear a Separate Jacket With Her £prln]; Soli. AUGUSTA PRESCOTT n v o sooner does the fashionable /\ I woman don her spring suit I than some one suggests that V V the separate coat is fashionable . and away she rushes to take off her neat little coat, only to put on one that contrasts with her suit. The separate little coat is now the ultra-fashionable thing, and, as is often the case, the modish woman is outdoing herself to get new little sep arate coats and a sufficient number of them to fill Dame Fashion's bill. Pic ture coats they are called, and very pic ture-like they are with their wide tleeves and smart trimmings. They are made of smooth, glossy cloth and they are short, fitting the figure very neatly. Mrs. W. K. Vanderbilt Jr., on her re cent arrival in this country, wore a deep granite gray suiting made with circular skirt, with panel effect in th« front. There was a suspicion of the tailor-made finish in tiie seams and around the hem. But the gown was quite spring-like and feminine with its pipings of white. The skirt was unlined, and £rom be neath it there peeped out a pair of granite gray graiterettes of exactly the .same shade as the material of the skirt. N<» : petticoat was visible, although the skirt was lifted as she came down the gangplank. This matter of wearing no petticoat at all is one that is engaging the atten tion of women abroad, who are consider- A :.:g the idea at omitting it altogether. The idea is that the effect is better without a petticoat than with. And that is the reas.on why one sees so very many pretty costumes in ParJs, with no petticoat worn underneath, and with the gaiterettes plainly showing when the. skirt Is lifted. Many of the skirts are lined, this being a revival of an old fashion. Of course, the petticoat it; silH fash ionable, and ,one sees the most beautiful spring skirts in all the lovely new shades of silk. But on the other hand, there has arisen a Parisian* fad for go ing without the petticoat and women wli© fall int'» fads easily have for the moment picked it up, only to suffer, in all probability, a groat reaction later on. A French gown went up Fifth avenue tiie other day. It was in deep blue chiffon velvet made princess, the most charming gown one could imagine for a calling tour. Jt fitted like the, paper on the wall, without seam or crease, without bend or break and almost with out a ripple, even at tiie foot. It was long and had to be he-Id up. But, though it was held high enough to display a very charming pair of • Kilter tops .in olue silk, and a neat pair of patent leather boots, there was no sign of a petticoat. The effect was decidedly catchy and Parisian, even though the style is not one that will last more than for the moment. Quite to the contrary was a navy blue velvet suit, made with circular .skirt and panel effect, the sides laid in very flat plaits. The skirt, which was full around the foot, and slightly long In the back, was lifted and. from under its edge, there peeped a silk petticoat, which was in no less than six .shades of blue, from very light to very dark, and all finished with tiny cording* of' pold thread put on bo daintily that tfie flounces were not weighed down by the braid. :The effect was very pretty indeed, and very feminine. The petticoat was of the very fluffy order, while the boots were patent leathers, high In the heel, with tops of navy blue, embroidered in the self -same color. The Pretty Spring Coats. Mrs. Longworth, who came back from her tour looking very charming, wore the other day a little shopping suit which quite mirrors the new spring style for the contrasting coat and skirt. The skirt was a pavement gray, rather deeper than the usual tone of pavement, and the coat was a pale gray, one of those little separate coats which are so pretty always, and %vhich make the figure so youthful. This little separate coat can best be described as 'natty, for it makes the figure look neat around the waist and jaunty, and it has the merit of always suiting the occasion. It can be worn with almost anything. The little spring coats are divided, into three separate styles, • all equally smart. The most popular is the little pony coat, which is short and straight in the front. The back is close-fitting, and there are sometimes neat little side pockets, but the pony is generally cut without pockets and is made with the straight front effect, unbroken by cross lines. The pony coat is, a little English coat and its trimming usually consists of braid put on in English fashion, run ning straight up and down. Its lines are unbroken and the effect is that of making one taller. The most particular thing about the pony coat, from Dame Fashion's point of view, is the length, which must be exact. iThe coat must be Just the right depth over the hips or the effect is spoiled. If too short it looks bobby; if too long, it is dowdy. To get It just right requires the prac ticed eye of an expert tailor. "Just over the hips" is the rule. A very popular little coat is the sum mer blazer. The blazer comes out new this year. This season it is made with out a collar and with a flat band ap plied to the neck, extending down the front in rever fashion. The /coat Is ebort, scarcely hip length, and it is cut away in the front so that it has no fastenings at all, being merely a little open front coat with sides flying. Still, in spite of its careless appearance, it is a smart litle coat and one that has the respect of those who aim to dress well. Gertrude Vanderbllt's Gowns. Miss Gertrude Vanderbilt, who is the leading debutante of the year, as well as society's richest girl, wears a little peach colored cloth blazer coat lined with pale pink silk. At the front there Is a glimpse of a lingerie shirt waist in tho most delicate lawn worn over a pink lining. Her skirt is a dark cloth one. a pretty little English tailored skirt — Just the" thing for trotting and for all street occasions. The material is very smooth as are all cloth models of spring. The Eton coat is one that must not be forgotten, for it is here to stay an other season at least; and; many of the new suits — in fact the majority of them —are cut in Eton fashion with the Eton more or less trimmed and the girdle matching the eton. This suit Is almost necessary to the woman who well, for it fills up a gap in her ward robe and supplies her with a gown which can be put on when there is nothing else in view. Three little summer coats must be in every wardrobe and their colors and materials should be about the same. The material should be smooth and the shade should be light. Otherwise the choice Is left to the wearer. And the coats should be In. Eton cut,: or in pony shape, or in the popular blazer effect. The best shades ere peach, butter color, ( THE SAN : FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. cnamois, pean,: Alice gray, tan and bis cuit color. And the best material is a soft broadcloth or one of the novelties that approach broadcloth arid give the same general effect. ;r; r The rough goods seem, for the - time being, to have gone out and everything points toward the smooth* materials. Broadcloths, smooth faced serges, cash meres and Panama c cloth and alltne other soft smooth faced goods; are here, while the rough goods .seem -to. have stepped aside and invited the smooth ones to take. their places.. Smooth Materials of Spring-. Serge, that friend of the .traveling woman, is very fashionable, but it is a serge that- is . smooth "and hot the rough, heavy \ serge,' nor yet the coarse kind, but rather a "soft ; stuff which greatly resembles cashmere in its qual ity, yet^whlch preserves all the durable properties of serge Itself. ; . Checks are also fashlqnafle, and here one comes to the new* color,ischerhes. A checked suit was made of blue ;and pink stripes upon- a gray'ground,'.giv ing a very pretty. tone., The sult,:which was an Eton" .suit, was piped with green and there were, little frillirigs of Valenciennes" lace, upon the* Eton coat. The girdle was piped with green and trimmed with. lace. , •\u25a0.l-- L - ; ty'';;.V , Checks were never quite. as fashion able as now, and 4 the, fearj expressed by the leading dressmakers istthat they ;will Uje overdone. They, come •In i all -grades of .material and It. ls possible to get a check for a few" cents, which, will "make up prettily, -wear well| and * present a very good ; appearance ; all I the /season through. In the' silk ; taffetas ; and "silk voiles they are'very. handsome and here they offer a really good investment," for they will \u25a0 clean,', make- over ! and come out as good as new. ' . •.-.'.-. _.. N .: When one comes to the . best ; color, for the f. checked :. gown .one : nius'tv fall back upon one's own taste/ 'Upon k Fifth avenue one sees *a great : number of black; and;. white checks^ and blue and white ones,. with the blue and white in the majority. Again, on a pleasant day, therg' are the little coral checks and the very, fascinating red and green effects, trimmed with": green, and s worn with a green j and blue straw sailor hat. It Is 4 largely a matter of paying, one's money and using one's judgment. :.-;f: ;: '*- :\ .The : Fancy, Silk Coats. < \u25a0 In every wardrobe there "must be a fancy silk, coat.'' There are lovely, coats that ;come with wide sleeves v of ' three quarter length,"" cutoff at just the, right point twixt "wrist* and ;; elbow/,?; 'And there are the most; adaptable little silk coats with sleeves of vvvrist length,"fin ished very wide, and terminating; in -a broad velvet band trimmed with\ lace." The silk coat, while not a necessity, is very useful, and -pretty. It is 'not strictly V a shopping : coat, j yet , its / uses are manifold.' It Is. made easy 'to the figure arid' as such it Is just the -thing to wear 'over the soft frilly t dresses which will , not bear / crushing,' and 'it Is the'Jvery coat'to' puton over ,thel fluffy, waists .which are so much , the fashion th is , ; spr in g : : and V which are .worn ;, r e-* gardless of time; season* or weather. - It is a bleEsecE thing that the summer materials clean well.' Otherwise there would be trouble; with the finance com mittee, j for, gowns are light, ..coats ] are lighter, and the separate waists are the lightest; of ; all. 'White 1b woriitbyithe majority; of .women ;• and; theu," white goods Tare % so"; easily soiled ;; that \\ they can be 'worn; only a couple, of times bef fore they, must be put out to the cleaner for. renovation. - :\u25a0:\u25a0\u25a0'' , / .'• The 'cummer, .woman is engaged- in at : ha'nd : torhand v ; struggle -with ' \u25a0 her neighborsjto see who shall ,'wear /the whitest fand of "summer 7 shirt waists -and •?. it"- f has % about reached" the "polhtlthat ; the 7 best ; dressed v, woman ? of the* summer] is <the ;one who shall .wear the - handsomest and ; freshest of lingerie Waists/ ;; / '-• "y-.V" ' '\u25a0 '• -, : '^'";"'-'-- -.'\u25a0\u25a0 «^' : The ; newest j waists ; are i made with trimming running straight across "the front from side, seam .to side; seam. Piece needlework is used for this pur pose and the waists are made up ; with the trimming 'running round and round instead of up and down. The effect is very ; pretty j where ; there , are openwork stripes through which the ; pretty lining can be seen. '\u25a0 .'\u25a0',- \ • The \u25a0'. wearing of the -colored slip, or under lining," is almost universal. One can buy these, slips, with elbow sleeves, ready.' made, in " the ; stores, and In most places one . can get them in either lawn or in \silk. . The, favorite colors . are flesh ; colored \u25a0. pink,* pa.le2.blue and a pretty shade of corn " color." L The . last makes the lacework look very rich and adds. much to the apparent cost of the waist.; ' \u25a0/ ' '\u0084-..'\u25a0 ... ' \u25a0 > Fitting: One's Self for the Summer. ?If you are a society a girl and; are fit ting yourself out* for. a 'pretty summer, be, sure '.to Invest \u25a0'\u25a0 in what; are called the* pretty;. things of summer and be careful that they match.. There is some thing ! about a : match that "is very charming. ;?";;;:!. \u25a0 .'-..,- * -V There is the fluffy, lingerie waist with its pretty pale gold colored'linlng. -Then comes .the '\u25a0 skirt; of -.butter 1 colored broad cloth, made In plaited, circular or gath ered effect. ,/ Finally there Is the \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0_ little Eton / coat or the .; pony. ; ' coat, • made to match 'I the* skirt, and ;with ?it all ', there Jls a* wrist bag, 7 a .parasol f and ?'a'f handker chief, while the hat, which Is a black straw.*"* Is / trimmed U with . gold - colored roses. ;* The effect is light and feummery, yet -warm'; enoughj f or ' any fine ..weather. ; .- The " : little"; separate) coat -fills in many a chink ; these days," and it ,< is , worn for many Toccaslons^ .: :. One * can* do '] so 7 very much (with; it." j Suppose , it to beialfash ionable -little cream ;broadcloth coat iwith Vwide /strappings *of self-col ored braid and etltchlngs of black."' The lining is pale pink and the coat, which has -: no *. buttons, '* is i trimmed .iwlth tiny little V braided > loops \u25a0':•• and fastenings. Such -a •; coat : as -. this I can :\u25a0 be .worn ; with seal brown, black,' navy blue and dark green. And, If there Is a hat of Just the shade of the coat,* then one is pretty well - equipped as to a runabout suit. . . Dame Fashion Is quite generous this year In that she allows her girls to dress pretty := much, as they ; please, pro viding; they are smartly attired. They must be -dressed in the new. materials cut In the new ways. But- when it comes to the. smaller matters of dress there- Is some latitude. Coats can be mixed upa -trifle, skirts can be inter changed, and, as for waists, . there is a wide field In which all handsome lin gerie waists are "equal favorites. \u25a0 There, is a story told of a New York woman in this town who went shop ping the other day to buy her summer wardrobe. She needed almost every thing that a woman can need at the be ginnlng of the season; Unfortunately, or fortunately — no one can tell which — she entered the store and. went first to the shirt waist counter. At the close of the day she was still buying shirt waists, and though her money was all gone, she had not stirred a step away from the waist department. "I can; do without other things," said she, "itl can, have all the waists Jf want." And \u25a0 many women feel the same way. The Intricate French Waists. The matter <• of tubbing the waist is one over which woman Is shedding many tears. V Laundries , have, for • the most part, gone up in their prices and It is no unusual thing to find a bill of a dollar awaiting you for the- washing of one single shirt: waist. Nor is the line drawn at that. ; One handsome French waist .was so intricate that it took :a \ fine laundress ' a whole day to iron r it, . and 'after, the , ironing was done a lace mender/ -went over It repairing any small rents In the lace. But this is one of the situations a woman has to meet : and she must prepare for it early. | Duck-green Is one of the fashionable colors of spring and this and currant re*d quite occupy the center of the stage in the summer calculations of many women." They are good tones and they go well with many _"\u25a0 other shades; sso well, ; in , fact, * that ; one might base one's summer trousseau upon them. \u25a0„\u25a0 One Yof» the prettiest -suits : of -this month Is built of duck-green , Panama cloth made with ' a"; pony /jacket ; effect, the : ; only ;; trimming .being many and many a row. of * braid. The • coat is cut off j Just 'at the hips and the back- is closelyf fitted while the front - hangs straight. ';. ;' , /;V,The ."pony*/. In this case is semi-fitted even in the front and is so. snug at the sid«s that. It quite follows the line [of the figure.- The sklrt>is one -of those plaited affairs \of :. which .one eees .so many V and • * 'which, *\u25a0 while _'. . not • " novel, shows novel features, this spring. The front was finished in panel effect, ; .while, around the hips/: there l was a wide swirl of 'black sllkbrald put^onlVery flat and pressed Into the cloth until it seemed a f partof it. V " : Many. " of ; the new braids - are used in this manner, namely, by pressing Into the cloth until they seem a part of- the goods. No attempt Is mada- to mak» the braid stand out. In fact, the richer and silkier and heavier the braid the more energetically la it pressed into the. goods. It makes the material look Ilka a French pattern dress, and In many re spects It is to be admired en this ac count. v A suit that was quite charming from Its novelty was built upon empire lines. A skirt, quite plain. wa3 worn with a high girdle, while over it was hooked a coat with an exceedingly short waist front and back. Tho coat had full elbow sleeves, while the wide flat belt securely girdled the coat higher up than the waistline originally goes by four inches.. The coat, while not with in the reach of the fat woman, was delightful upon the slender woman who wore it. Just for the month the little separate coat is both comfortable and fashion able. Its colors are new and It comes In every shade, there being no limit to the hues in which It is built. This is a season of novelties and the number of these to be found in Dams Fortune's domain would surprlsa those who have not followed the trend of thai new fashions closely. Something new Is continually cropping op and It taxes one's brain and one's purse to keep uj> withi them. The elbow sleeves called for the locs glove and gloves of elbow length are as numerous a3 the gowns of the season. Each frock must have Its pair of gloves and with most frocks there must be three pairs. The necessary gloves are. the black glaced kid. which are worn with street dresses and for. all occasions not strictly dress. Then one needs a pair of white gloves, elbow length, and to these mu3t be added tho gloves Just the color of the gown, be the gown Alice blue, violet, heliotrope, coral or green, for kid comes In every shade. But the Tend of the novelties la not yet. , The gloves are long and require support. Ldke one's hose, they must be kept upv and here there is presented aa oppor tunity for a new scheme In dress. A little garter-lika attachment comes for slipping over the arm. It Is made of elastic, precisely like the garter upon the> lesr, and over It Is shirred a little satin ribbon. The name of the article Is a gartlet. "Gartlet'* la a recently coined word. - a lid It means a buckled band of velvet worn with long • gloves above the elbow. "It is strongly advocated for day as well as evening wear, because when the arm Is bare, which is cold and danger-. ous ! in winter time. It keeps the glove so close up ' to the sleeves that the ; wearer feels Just as warm as If the aria were covered with a long sleeve; moreover, the gartlet does away with any fear of a red elbow being visible. It also dresses up the arm. It Is, In fact, a glove garter, doing the same kindly office for the glova that the garter., did , for the stocking be fore the susuender drove It out of the field. The cartleta are sometimes made of velvet, sometimes of ribbon. - fulled over an elastic foundation, a little .buckle : or. rosette hiding the Join and giving a flnl3h to them ; the buckle, however, permltj their being adjusted, to anjf reo,tttr«d aiae.