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SOCIETY AND ITS FADS THE OUTSIDER THAT class of humanity, technic ally known as society, com posed of people permitted to set themselves " a little apart, j through their breeding, wealth or heir own strenuous and persistent I <~rort>, has been given to certain -idiosyncrasies since the beginning 'of recorded hi«tory,_. and possibly be 3'cars have become known as fads. Some are harmless, others quite the reverse; some arc wise and very many exceedingly silly when viewed with an altogether unsympathetic eye, but on the whole they commend them selves to the materialist as being a lation and keeping people diverted. One of the most attractive and in craze for being artistically photo tography amounts almost to a reform \u25a0 -- \u25a0\u25a0'•\u25a0 , . r ;k j'.';*''v- lovement and is one of the distinct advances made at the end of the cen tury. Look at any sun portrait made a decade or two ago, and almost in variably it is, even when one of the best of the period, a thing of avvk ward, stiffened pose, with an inanely simpering or rigidlj' frowning con scious expression and crude unsoft .ened lines. Many of us have childish memories of a bare gray room where one sat on an uncomfortable chair, with iron clamps seizing the back of one's head, while a rather shabby man, with his lingers stained with " chemicals, adjusted and read justed the camera and your poor little ...... . strained neck, while you vaguely an ticipated an explosion of some kind when jou were finally '"taken." Society Before Camera. Now how different it all is. Society now can only tolerate the photo graph which is so daintily artistic that it is not only delicate incense to the vanity* of the person pho tographed but of distinct value as a decorative adjunct. The photogra pher is no longer an individual upon whom you bestow about as much at tention as upon your undertaker. He is, if he wishes to portray high so ciety, a man of education, tempera ment and artistic .ability. It is no longer so crudely a business affair but becomes in a way quite social a.nd assumes the dignity of a func tion. It is not a bare, dusty, draughty room that one enters but. an artistic studio. The man, or perhaps the woman, nowadays, who receives you is an artist, not of paints and cameras, !r.£ of lights and shadows, and he is expected tc discourse with you upon .'trchitccture, medieval costuming, Japanese prints and whatnot of the kind. There are few of us who are not influenced by externals and your society photographer knows that this is particularly true of his patrons. You. and j-our friends, who accom pany you, as to an informal at-home, go into a room made delightful with deftly arranged lights, quaint old fur niture, priceless rugs, artistic brasses, imd hung with soft sepia-tinted por traits of celebrities or beautiful women. Tea perhaps is served and your— l almost said your host—pho .tographer is making himself as agree able as a wdl-dressed, clever man of tlie world may. ! Real Art the Result You have on, -probably, your very best and most becoming clothes, the attractive background and pleasant conversation divert you, and it is but 'a brief while until you axe, metaphor * : Interesting Bits of News From Cities of the Old VVorld "Gibson Girl" an Actress. LONDON,' JuIy 28.— A' jury decided yesterday that a "Gibson Girl" is an actress, and as the result of the third trial of her action against Messrs. Gatti and P'rohman, proprietors of the Vaudeville Theater, Miss Hawkins has won on all points. The plaintiff, who is an exceedingly pretty woman, was engaged to appear as a Gibson girl in the Vaude ville Theater play, Catch of the Season." The defendants dismissed her. after she had played for a few weeks, and she. brought an action for wrongful dismissal, contending that she was engaged for the run of the piece and was entitled to salary for the whole of the time it was played. • The defendants replied that she was in fact a ically, purring loudly, and all your cheeriest, pleasantest traits are por trayed upon your countenance. This is what your wary photographer has been waiting for. He must be a man of quicks perceptions and intuitive ability, and while he has been talk ing to you he has been, as well, riot ing > - our best and weakest points. He sees that my lady has a sharpened angle of the jaw that is fatal to -her beauty at certain views, or that my lord has a weak chin, not at all com patible with manly strength, and the artist must seek poses ' to conceal these. Then when the actual photograph ing is to be done you stand or sit for a moment while the photographer, with an air, at least, of a softly mur mured apology, focuses his camera. Then you remain on the spot where you were posed. The photographer wanders about, chatting, showing you interesting objects here and there, your friends talk, you, yourself, laugh and converse, and suddenly, when you are perhaps least expecting it, you hear a sharp little click, and you are photographed! , Then later, the negative is devel oped, enlarged, printed on some soft gray or brown paper, and the results come home to you so pretty, so ar tistic or so individual, with a soft, gray shadow blurring the high cheek bone or too-wide mouth, or a deft disposition of a white light erasing a wrinkle or marring line. * And then society praises this clever photogra pher, who is indeed far cleverer than many of them realize. And he is the vogue. V- .' » Work of Oscar Maurer. \u25a0 One of the latest developments in chorus girl, and not an actress, and was liable to be dismissed at a fortnight's notice. Oppose Prince's 'Marriage. ROME, 'July. 28. — Since the congregation of the council issued a decree annulling tne marriage "of Prince Shoenburg-Waldenburg to one of the daugh ters of Don Carlos, the Spanish pretender, numerous* petitions have bee*h received at the Vatican/from/Ger many asking the Pope to prevent the Prince from contracting, a/ marriage as he contemplated. .'Most of these petitions are based on the fact that /the congregation was chiefly moved to issue the .decree by the. Prince's physical* condition as testified [to by seven medical witnesses; THE SAN FRANCISCO^ CALL;; SUNDAY; ;.'ji;iJY\ 29, ;i906. artistic photography has been made by Oscar Maurer, who has, since he was burned out here, begun to take out-of-door portraits in Berkeley. He had almost decided to go to Los An geles to liv 4 when this idea of- thus photographing people and particu larly children came to him. Mr. Maurer and. his pretty wife are living with Mrs. Maurer's mother, who has a rarely attractive home in" Berkeley. The house is an adaptation of Flem ish architecture and has the quaint Dutch name of Weltevraden, mean ing Home of Content. . There is a big picturesque garden, with wide spreading oaks, winding paths, irregu-. lar clumps^ of old-fashioned flowers here and there and a precipitously walled little stream running through, with a quaint bridge of masonry over it. * Here Mr. Maurer and the children wander forth, and in any place. in the grounds that occurs to him as suit able the children are photographed. t Little "Billy" Towne, whose por trait is shown' today, is an- excellent example of this. On a certain, path he paused, just near a bail of tall: poppies, scarlet, rose and white, which attracted his attention. -"Oh, poppies!" he called out. . < Some one asked, "Where are the poppies, Billy?" and quickly the manly, sturdy little figure turned and he pointed, definitely, and answered, "There they are." At that moment Mr. Maurer pho tographed the handsome little lad with the poppies swaying in the sun light behind him, and now there is pleasure far and wide among Billy's friends and relatives, in the portrait showing him in a natural attitude, rather than, as of old, an, unhappy, stiff,, havirig-my-picture-takeri/ way. . A" pretty portrait .is that of Miss Claire Drake, a descendant of the famous Sir, Francis, -who comes from the north, but who has been here at school for some time and.will.prob ably be. a debutante of next winter. The portrait of Mr.. Maurer himself is from an excellent study made by Dr. Arnold Genthe. New Pose of Poverty. Another society fad of decidedly different nature, andpeculiar to San Francisco and the immediate vicinity just now, is the ' pose of poverty. One's social standing is determined, not by what one possesses, but rather by what one has lost. Some one has said that San Franciscans take their grief gajly. They certainly take their poverty ostentatiously. Some. of the society folk have indeed lost much and are reduced not to actual penury but to very considerably diminished incomes. Instead of retiring to ob-" scurity, purple with mortification and bathed in tears, according to the ac cepted theory, they are banding to gether and making brave efforts to take it all as a huge joke. It is quite the correct thing to tell just how* many buildings you had burned, and then the exact income you pos sessed on Saturday, Aprir ; 2i (the smaller the better), just how many servants you dismissed, what clothes you had ordered in Paris and been compelled to countermand. There is much that is brave and fine in it all, and; many '"\u25a0, women are developing characteristics that have long laid dormant. .. One woman of wealth, who has been active as a leader of things fashionable for a number of years, saidlthe other day: "I have sent away all'-my maids and am keeping only, a cook. I do the upstairs work myself and I believe it is doing me good. I feel bettjr than for years." In contrast .to this is the young "millionaire pauper," who keeps his Boni Re-enters Society PARIS, July 28.— Count; BonLde Castellane made an almost spectacular re-entry .;* into society at -the Austro r Hungarian Embassador's garden; party this week. Dressed in- the 'height of fashion^ the .Count moved superbly through the crowd that roamed the magnificent gardens with a costly /orchid for.his boutonniere. - , - ".\u25a09 t -.^? r d an( fces, envious, reported that his black silk cravat was tied under the/ personal supervision of his friend and sartorial mentor; Lebargy,theexquisite" : : \u25a0 i Count Boni, gayest- of ./the gay, persistently ap pVoached every one', of ; his ' former friends. . They .ITI. 1T1 ? n i* este d a disposition riot to ' see 'him, /but ' he automobile but charges'- his ;long dis tance telephone messages to* J the per son he .telephones to. .. ' . Servants Dismissed. A number of people have told their servants that they are unable to pay wages for the present, but if the ser vants have^ no other homes they may stay : and work for their board until they can better themselves. One enormously rich family,, who own quantities of property, bi|t whose in come was temporarily cut off, turned all of their servants away, save two or three, without any inquiries as to their future welfare.^ A governess who had been with them for years re ceived the same treatment, in spite of the-fact that she was frail and had no relatives here, and but few. friends. That would seem to. indicate that poverty was being taken a little too selfishly. One of the funniest things is the number of people who have lost.heir looms and family portraits. When a woman, whose grandmother, if por trayed, would prove to be at best a peasant in her native costume or a simple plain old country woman, tells you of her losses along that line,, you wonder what she would do if her be longings were miraculously restored. One never realized before, either, how general was the possession of point lace and diamonds, a rare china, and whole chests of silver, arid, the number, even, of silk . stockings lost, enumeratedjby, the dozens, would fit out a colony of centipedes. .• v; It'is a, harmless enough society fad, however, and most of the v women, in or but of society, have bravely' lost enough to v make one patient with many worse exaggerations "or affecta tions. -- \u0084 Besides the many San Franciscans spending the season in the .towns around the bay and ; at" San Mateo, there are many who go yet farther afield. Menlo and Fair Oaks have' a large summer colony, the two localities merging, their inhabitants to, sucti an extent that the divjdingiine, is rather seemed to win back every one by |he charm of /his smile and his engaging manners, i VHope of being,; re-elet^ed to the Chamber, of pepu •M?!?* L* h<: * ec ° nd P°H\ng in ithc ; Bassts-Alpcs District inspires Boni.; Weli-iriformed politicians believe; that much of the opposition which Castellane incurred at the last election will/vanish under influence, which the money power will bring, to help^ him/ He : has promised to/be "good as gold" toward;his political- enerriies '-.until •after the ejection. If he is chosen' he will. remain silent. "I ..will bring into daylight certain , begging letter! written when money stood in , my ; name;' letters j none too /delicate 1 * and Knot frofn \u25a0 political \u25a0; nonentities/ I assure; you," Count Boni has threatened to his friends if he isjdefeated •- . - - ' ; / vague. Mr. and Mrs. Edward Eyre have rented their place, "Athcrton Wood," at Fair Oaks, to Mr. and.Mrs, Sig. Stern, arid they themselves are with ; the Perry^ Eyres and. Miss Mary Eyre at the old Eyre place. ,f7^ . The* Richard Spragues have arrived from their home in^ Louisiana to spend the summer and have rented the Girvin place at Menlo. Mr. and v Mrs. Willis Polk, Mr. and Mrs. 'Percy ..Moore, the Edward Pringles and the Thomas Breezes are a congenial little group of relatives and connections who /are living at Menlo. Mr. and Mrsi H. Macdonald Spencer (formerly Miss Florence Josselyn) are among those who have recently lived all the year at Menlo. Mr. and Mrs. Silas Palmer are there at the Holbrdok place, and Mr. and Mrs. William H. Taylor Jr., Mr. and Mrs. Gus Taylor and Mr. and Mrs. George McNear Jr. are with their parents, Mr. and Mrs. E % W. tfop kihs. Mrs. J. Leroy Nickel is at her Menlo country place. Mr. and Mrs. Worthington Ames are with Mrs. Ames' mother, Mrs. Preston, at Por tola Hall, near Redwood City, at present, but they expect to go shortly to their own home at Fair Oaks, which is in process of building. Mr. and Mrs.Willard Drown "have rented the Breuner place near Redwood. Other out-of-town dwellers are: Mr. and Mrs. H. P. Livermbre and Miss •' Elizabeth Livermore, whose Russian > Hill residence rises like an island in an ocean of desolation, and who are Sat their Sonoma County ranch; Mrs. William. Bourn,-Miss Ida Bourn and Mrs. James Ellis Tucker, who are, at their place at St. Helena; Mrs. William ; B. Bourn and Miss Maud Chase Bourn,' who are in Grass Valley; Mr. and Mrs. Horace Blan chard Chase, who are at Stags Leap, their beautiful place in Napa; Captain "arid Mrs. Clover, who arrived in the early summer from" Washington, D. C, and are at Lavcrgne, the old Mi ller ranch, one, of the most beautiful in the Napa Valley; the Drury Me lories, who are also near Napa; Cap tain and Mrs. Bdce, at their ranch Shaw Has a New Admirer. LONDON, July 28.— N0 Lcjsaugust a person than the Bishop of London has joined those who worship George Bernard Shaw.' 'The Bishop was sitting in the fourth row of the stalls at the Court Theater on the first night of the revival of "You Never Can Tell," and all the way through was enthusiastic. He laughed /delightedly at the steady pliy of satire, not even : A; J.-Balfour, himself applauding more heartily. Atthe end of the first act his lordship turned to the L*^ o !!^' s^!^*, who was making all the noise she could.with her. gloved hands, and said: ; "Awfully, good, isn't it?" and he went into another fit of laughter. v -.. \u25ba - at Oakville, Napa County, and the Misses Jolliffe, who are in Sonoma County. - Mr. and Mrs. Lawson Adams Jr. are among those who were burned out at St. Dunstan's, and are now at their charming cottage in Belvedere, where they are entertaining a num ber of their friends who were ren dered homeless by the fire. Mrs. Adams is being congratulated on one bit. of good fortune which befell her in the midst of the general calamity. Just a few days before the fire, some rare old heirlooms of the Adams family which had t^een presented her by Mrs. Adams Sr. were removed from town to the Belvedere cottage and were thus saved. Mrs. Adam Adams, who is very handsome and ex tremely popular as well, is an Oak land girl, being a daughter of Mrs. Gilbert Curtiss of East Oakland. Her son, Master Lawson Adams 111, is a handsome little lad, his eyes' being his especial beauty. Skirt Sale Our buyer in New York City is picking up bargains faster than the blockaded condition of our street permits us to sell, and in order to make room for daily arrival of new goods we are offering the en- tire shipment of $7.50 and $10.00 SKIRTS in Fancy Mohair. Pan- ama, .'Voile,. Serge, Worsted. Broadcloth and Fancy Mixtures in the newest shades of gray, blue, brown and black cloth. Special at $3.95 They are all made in the -latest fashion, 9 gore, pleated. - circular and with wide flares. SHIRT WAISTS--si.so and $2.00 values, with? inserted Valen- ciennes lace over front, collar . and sleeves; tucked yoke front and back. Special.... <J»| ar Fox & Zeemari "Satisfaction Htnw." 460 McAllister Street Brtwfen Van >>«\u25a0 and Polk. . NY B.— Rsmeirib«T w« guaranty satisfaction on all purchases or money back. • Mall orders filled.