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The San Francisco Sunday Call. Magazine Section A SAN FRANCISCO WOMAN IN TROUBLED TANQIER Louise R. Hatch (Tfce mlhor -'\u25a0 of ?{hu: article: is. a: teacher, in itjrecc Mana Crammar School, San Francisco, n<ho U spending her vacation in Europe.) \u25a0•'.: : i ':\u25a0\u25a0",'.:\u25a0 '-'\u25a0 "\u25a0'>'\u25a0\u25a0".:'\u25a0 V '.„\u25a0:'. :; ." •; \u25a0_['.': _'. -. ..\u25a0;:\u25a0; ; -'. Tangier, 1 Morocco, February &.'.[- NOW. that is appearing; so frequently in .the .news columns :attd ; the, eyes 6f the : world. are watching to 'f ee^what will happen next,- perhaps . a few personal: lines from the pen of ;^om^ iS^^mt^^^ i u^^ ! Includes this city may be of intertst: Tangier, is certainly V»/wwt\w^.e^)iijpTJs^^ip»;wiPt!rci^?3t« equalor, its beggary, its J.filth md diseased in' fact,' its everything that goes to make. iup.tKe city, arid .no where west of ; Cpnstantmopjc \ -can .such '•\u25a0'. sights •' and . sotmds be. seen and ;heard.- f- '\u25a0... '\u25a0['\u25a0 \u25a0\u25a0[ -'v^.:' \u25a0 \. 11-::.1 1-'' : :. '' After five or 'six -.h'our.s 1 ' sail frbrii Cadiz. our eteamer enchored about a. quarter- of -a-, mile from shore; but Tangier still ..remained the pfo'mised-iand, for-' there was no visible nieans : of r'eachingj itvaril^s's it." should' be by the clumsy but rapidly approaching, royfboats filled with standing . oarsmen. \ -These . pictu'resqua Moors with their quaint, twisted turbans, their bibusy trousers, broad sashes and 'bare legs' 5 and feet were 6oon scrambling up the side of our vessel, and cold shivers ran over' me, .'for it takes 'n.b %'cry .liv-ely: imagination to transform 'these \u25a0*sharp-C3-ed, seriousV Visaged Africans into prowlers of the sea, while' the wide sashes wound around" their waists would make a cozy nest for a dirk. However, these particular one?, proved harmless, and with little ceremony we were hustled down the ladder and dropped adroitly from the end of it into the boat below. ' . ; . . And now one approaches this Oriental city of the west, the city where the. Christian t-s and has' been for centuries an unwelcome guest within its gates, end where, he- is riot. allowed to defile its mosques by his footsteps. But on our approach we conceived 411 this to/be a* mistake, for we thought; siirely/tHat the .dignitary standing at the end of the wharf must been. appointed to meet and welcome us, ior- is "it Governor Raisuli himself? He stands, there, a " xnoat imposing figure with a long, flowing. .white robe draped -about him and wearing; a "red fez \ with ' 'a.^whlte. turban twisted, around it. * He certainly •eems delighted at our coming, \u25a0 for long' before we • can ht&r his voice he welcomes "us with wild, grace ful gestures^ He is quickly r joined by others, who' enter the scene with lordly strides, and. who are equally vehement «hd gracious until a* committee of ' thirty or more are shouting their greetings,, and ; we Ere sore that they are at least offering >us the keys «f the city. We climb the steps of- the wharf; amid > a perfect bedlam of voices and flourish 'of arms, r and are immediately ' surrounded by) a ' small army/of : rcd : fezzes and flowing robes, each one claiming the ex elusive privilege of escorting us~wher.e? Alas! to the hotel for which he is an ordinary but most : un common runner.-* • Jn; our chagrin and disappointment our minds . re- : rert to the good old days at home, and the -echoes of the resonant "Russ Souse," "Lick Ouse" v : and Otel" sound like strains from Heimweh." This certainly, is bevyildering, for.the^MoorsMoinot^ hesitate U> lay hands upon us ; one • takes me by \u25a0 the arm and tries to lead me away, another assures me that ! bis. hotel.' ls 'far} theibestrandii puts : hls jhand-' to'rny* back*,t6;'add*ffp*rce «to- his 'powers,'. :but-:ljStand*firxn/» clinging^ to /the* nearest /American, coat tail;. arid. then and; thereclileariiedUbJsyiVpathtze" with * the v woman wKq;- uiidcr the (same] circu ins taiices,"? stood' arid \ wppt) until i rescued* by ? ; at gallantiEnglisii-; man'."*.ln \u25a0 this same / Englishman'jwe^recoguized '\u25a0 our," salvation, for he usually > stands^quietly .by ,'f watching - and perhaps "enjoying; the" 'scene,'' until TthWVjssycHo-'' logical moment* when jhejSteps 'upywithT'^VyouldTyou; like ; a - nice, quiet; ! hotel ?" 1; \W6uid ", we ? H is ; wo rds/ sound >al nibs t [ like; irony,*- but less -to say ..we are sobnJaway ;fro(m*th«tl' i inaddening? crowd" and threading qurj; tra^^irTO^lKiX equally' bewildering one/ f or ; the* narrow, I ; crooked ; streets i are ;' actually swarming,, with, life^;.,- . i-,->;.i -,->;. v-i , .-0.'j"..;... f , The [ city* is^ beautifully r situated oh \u25a0! " hill*/ risiij> \u25a0 i! m ?.?* j ' *? c c r . - ; f rpm^.tYie \Wa t c jr^s •> c dg'ci'^a n d^canjjbba st :) , rcsu|tj.. of- the 5 advent* off the-, unwelcome '. Caucasian*' etl !/£ I^' a r eYjpaVe <j 1; Jbut fas ; aTrul e^ toojnar r o w* , t o] idmiUof^ I ufe wal k ;sif^d|asta|c^se^e'ricefwe;'aVe^ :*9oo]*plodding^^ f oßting^yitli i (t^h c f 1 i U^e | &u rr r o .* -T h i s^' u^'f oVt un a te 1 ii 1 1 j c" creature us^hcrclliteraily>the^ beast r of '-burclenT fori; th'ertT a rei ho* wagons* m "use 'in tT^ngief,' nor^in jf act/; conveyances of 'any"; kind;' v so ; burdVns^of »;iniineh*se J; bulk^and* weight* are T ?heapVd|upon .fthe'-back and'th'eadi of^tn'e^long-suffenng^bur^ cruelty*,- of *| the j M_6or9*»tojtallj.animal»|is*iomethJngjVppa^ th cmgix' 'th'ere is^ a'ujociety: f or] th e'; pTeventionTof'cnieity^ to.aniiw^i^awsjdo^noi : seem.tOjbejenforcedLS x / \u0084 :j^Tlk-costtime>^f?the^en^i9|as^pictures^uei'a3*it'i i«, varied; '.colortd-bloomers; and- velvet i boleros^ are« : sometJrnes(seen, but the * more popular; dress .consists "of .wHite\bl_oomers with-a;long?cloak of'white mate rials, o.rcsembling; Turkish toweling, <which; is- Avoyen ;h*ere: : by;the r old-fashioned hand loom!'. : The - : -'poorest class; wear, a\sort ; of burlap cloak and, the .turban con sists;>fttv?inc/twisted(afound' the head; • The -fed; fez ,'in'dicatesVtlie 'unmarried "Moor, and 'if , the white* turban is eh twiiied' about it; it -is :a warning to 'the >blackr.' eyedrbeautie's hot to^ peep .over the veil which-is}gen "erallyj- drayvn over ;the : lower. part oHhe, face, for this. is <f a'vb*enedict; ; .^or 'sometimes j one jwhoihas^niade'. a.pil-\ is worthy; of honor and nowri^ThisTm'ethbd j pointing 'out to- the world the \u25a0 unmarried man— in other "words^ separating, the' sheep fromlitliefgoats^s*:. to ;be ! highly/cbmrn ended;; and ' it -is tpcdwill^be; a'dopteti/ in \ other •\u25a0cbuntfie's besides oro'ecp.'.' *.;';" '\u25a0'' -J : \u0084; . ;•'";' ',: . '-' 'X^Tlie.' women wear -no I hats, customarily botiij lieadrandTbbdyJinja 1 single- garment of white,- or. wiiat^sHbuld J.be\ white ; s the .poorer; ones ; using r burlap. : Iffn'otl young; or i pretty, Vthe '-cloak' is -'drawn : tightly: over the face, sot tliatlthe eyes ; alone are visible : Z but thejbeautyiisoftenia -.little_, careless aboutthis:and air lbws^lt i '..t6?drop;;or.'.wears a. veil which" half conceals* a^dfjialf.^reveals.' V^hcTpobrestVof .;.the women— and . thlTirname is legion^are icantilyclad in a single robe, which \u25a0 serve? »s blouse and skirt,, and. stowed away some wh ere? in i : its t dirty/ folds, 'can usually; b'e ". found a t'ihy" baby. , pe v accfuH'y~sleeping, happily" 'unconscious "of th^ftragc^j^iirjyvhich. it. ii to. take a part. '•"Afc 1 w~oi : iHillcfasslqilivomen- have » the! feet and /legs.' swathed " and'bouhd^witliiStripsofiburlap/but the majority^ plod albngYunderi'.the :heavy. burdens borne " upon : h'ead/. or v backr^with'no' protection"' whatever. •'Children^ as 'a ' rule, •, are ,-not \ ill-treated, sand seem to be happy, al- .< though ; diseased,^ mange 'being- quite cora mpmamon&l^nem^as^well' as ."eyeldiseases,- the; treat--, ment* for. ;whjch^s} branding around the. eyes with; hot • iron's. 1 / r-. { ;V .- 1 /'.^*.' ",.',\u25a0 '''-..' \u0084.-\u25a0/\u25a0 . '-. '•\u25a0 .\u25a0 '.t:. t : .. 4 » SuchV stbljdityicombihediwith i such>, a .< struggle j for • B^^^^^^ t^V s -^. s truggl c ends l Mi^^^^^^^^^^ll^^!^°^^^ e^^ °^ cases or -. •-.;:••.\u25a0,....-.•.•\u25a0..:>\u25a0•\u2666; f . \u0084 -/v ';\u25a0>:\u25a0.'•;'\u25a0> >..<.-\:..^ •\u25a0..\u25a0.\u25a0:\u25a0.'\u25a0 \u0084•\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 \u25a0.•';.•\u25a0:\u25a0. V:another—the'struggle to Hnd.some place In which to • •lie dOAvh/^ndVsleep;:; After nightfall the- streets ara . : /actually: lined Iwith these' homeless, ones,-who wrap s their burlap\about"them^and",lie on:' the. weti muddy \u25a0'\u25a0•stohc3^'orVif^particii?aflyyfbrtun^^ threshold > and. there; He .'doivii to v'pleasant > dreams." /.Those ia y the .little'tents; of ' the market "place*' whom we. hava ;before...;.pitied/:'.yre'-'cdrnfprtable '\u25a0'\u25a0)'."in comparison, • although*-.even .there•fivevbrfsix huddle together In a -.space" hardly, large enough, for' one; seemingly' con tented in spite- of the* bare- ground 'on. which they sle.ep'. -Qne'^yohders at. the. fact that, there" are no .T.suicides"among.them,-for how can -a sentient creature submit:-wilH;ngiy' to 1: such:conditions, .even if it'is the will of \u2666Mahomet? , Occasionally they are reminded of the side r of natures" by one of-their holy men striding,through(the.'streeti crying as;he-goes, "God^ only is'; God- and Mahomet: is his. prophet," a text from the/Koran'which 13^ woven into:their embroid eries,''worked'into .their- carvings. and .which appears • ".everywhere "i.n :tbe" Alhambra-.in :Granadai But can . these^be*'.the .Moors'.who. invaded Spah;, "threatened Europe, ;and s left behind them ".marvels of art.'ahdVarchitectufe^ wherever th'sy conquered? It seems" Jmpossfble that they arc of tile tame race, for : there: is ihere to vindicate or ambi * tipn.;. They {possess • self control to a marve!oua de- ( gree .and are except -. when dealing twltll ..'Christians;:whom .they regard" as tlielr legitlmata. \u25a0rprcy;: \u25a0'-..; \" . , ;;.\: J/ - . r^. ..l-'Many - times; we heard voices raised in argument overJa sale, and* just,as'riiany-times, were sure wa \u25a0 were about to witness, a murder,,but |he trouble was always'settled'either by themselves or, if-kept up too longfby,"an»officer,'*whose only insignia of office vrzs 'a. gun, i 'who)!marched the offenders to the gateway Vhere the. Judge'heldjcourt in' the.open street. Here each.: offender Nells," his story >to 'a self-constftuted lawyer,' who," in; turn, ;lays' both -sides, of the' questloa •before i the VJadge-lASometirnes: there i-I» «' dls missaU sometimes a?fine," and: sometimes a flogging, ;''.' ;' (Continued *on next pake.)