Newspaper Page Text
ihs San Francisco Sunday Call.
LATEST PARIS FASHIONS IN EASTER OUTFIT EASTER Day anfl Zatter gowns Always are connected in the minds *>f tbe majority of Indi viduals, and whether or not it Is fashionable to appear In a new cos tume on Eatter day. none the less does almost every woman make an effort to have hrr clothes which she Intends for spring wesr made and finished .by Kaster, In i«plte of the fact that Easter this year comes very early and thin ciothes are going to be extremely un comfortable. Pride is supposed to feel no pc!n, and the proverb applies espe cially to thr wearing of epring clothes, which are dear to the heart of every woman; and consequently tailors and dressmaker* are rushed to death in order to fill all the orders that are be ing heaped upon them. Firft and foremost in the spring out fit comes the tailor costume, no longer severe in outline, but made in cloth, with a certain tailor effect to it, so that it shall be distinct from the veil ing and taffeta gowns made on a more. elaborate order; but this by no means should convey the idea that cloth Browns cannot be just as elaborate as any other*. Only, as has orten been stated. light cloths, in spite of theli very light weight, are not so useful in Bummer as the thinner materials. From the very best authorities come* the news that the separate waist Is no longer fashionable; that every smart g/own must necessarily be finished with waiet and skirt to match, and yet again is fashion proved to be wrong Into far that, never were there so many different modrln for separate waists as there are this season, and these can be worn with any sort of gown— -the ' se vere tailor .'made, th« more elaborate veilicc and even with tbe silk skirt. The lingerie blouses are exquisite; If possible, more exquisite than last year, more elaborate and extremely effective, while the embroidery is of the finest. Then \u25a0 once again have come into fashion the boned and fitted waists of till; and lace combined, or of net and lace, or net and silk. In fact, there docs not seem to be any material that cannot be combined with one or two others, while the variety of colors Is endless. Charming Slik Blouses The silk blouses or waists that are In style again are very often as in tricate a n though they were intended for a. waist to match a skirt. One charming model J* made of both plain and figured silk, thr figured silk In palft pink and *lu<*. the pleln in pink. This i* trimmed with rmbroidery or heavy lace. The eleeves are large, full puffs that extend onls' to tbe elbow. There i* a high, draped belt, with a loner buckle in front, and the collar is made of folded lace and finished in front with a. soft tie of lace. It Is a inott becoming model for any one, 'as n stout perron ran wear It. and on a. FlcndT figure it looks remarkably wMI. A dainty Ilttl* touch lajrlven by the plain taffeta bow whirh fasten* tli<» lace lie at the throat, with a gold Ruckle to match the buckle at the bodice. Au other equally effective blouse, or rather separate waist, because these are too elaborate to be called, blouses, is made of cnrnille dotted net,, white, over a pal© blue. This has over . the sleeves long caps of plain taffeta, the dams ehadc as the lining. There is a front of heavy lace, and this and the caps over the sleeves are trimmed with «. Persian embroidery in blue. - pink and white. The lines of the waist are charmingly graceful, while the eleeves also are graceful, although they are much larger than sleeves have been lately. They are In long puffs that do not reach below the elbow. The collsr is flnishesd in severe stock effect and Is made with the dotted net, TheKoft finished taffeta wai*ts are made this epring on mort elaborate model*, and when they are" not trimmed •with lace en entre-deux or motifs they arc roost elaborate In the; amount of hand work showiTln the fine tucks or medium-Blzod pleats in feather stitch ing, or once again In smocking,' for that fashion is coming back Into favor: it Is not, however, so popular by any means as tucking, which admits, of «o much variety, as the tucks can be nar row, very narrow, medium width or so wide that they may be dignified by the name of pleats. It Is once ayaln fashionable for these waists to match the linings of the coAtt and a very charmingly dainty effect can be given to quite a plain costume of dark blue serge, for instance, if it be lined with primrose taffeta, and then the waist to wear with It be of the same shade of taffeta. Such a waitt will require no trimming excepting the taffeta collar, a tie or jabot of lace, wfth «uffs to match, which is one of the most fashionable trimmings at the mo ment and certainly a inon refined and becoming one. Always in the spring there are wed dings and consequently the smartest kind of garments mupt necessarily be In order, not only for the bride-elect but for her friends •who are to be pres ent *t the wedding, and there must be smart reception (towns made up for these festive occasions. There are ma terials that have n«»-r before been seen and then there are a &r»at many old friends among the fabrics that thii year appear under n*w names. , but which are nevertheless very popular and in great demand. The coloring' •re al»o in great variety, dark anrl light, ktinv.n and unknown, for cm tainly Bom* 1 of the shades have nev#l before made th»ir appearance. Smart veiling gown* i:i si! iolor« «re fasci nating, more so In t!i<» light ones" than Iff the dark, end t).<* light veilings are going to be extremely popular this year. They are made Jn princess Ptyle. in empire rtyle. in coats and skirts and foete and waists and skirts, so that there Is no excuse for m«"!i and every woman not finding pomethins especially becoming to her style of beauty. There i» much that Is eccentric, too eccentric to be quite according to conservative Idea*, and at the same time the most conservative r.ilnded woman can find plenty of fashions to chooae from that will not grate upon her taste and yet will be, distinctive. There are several marked changes In fashion; the trimmings of the gowns arc put on very differently from last year, and both sleeves and shoulder* are quite different. For the more elab orate style of dress w tl'.e short sleeve st.ll prevails, but. as a rule, it now comes below the elbow. The large puft above the elbow is larger than ever, but Is generally held down Just above the elbow by tt band of lace or em broidery. Then comes another puff that extends below the elbow. It is not a geuerally becoming style of sleeve, for it completely hides any pretty lines oJ the arm that may exist and at the same time lias a tendency to make the figure look thick, as when the arms are held Oown the fullness of the sleeve extends to the waist line, thus hiding anything JUVENILE FINERY IN FROCKS, COATS AND HATS FOR SPRING AND SUMMER CLOTHES for children for spring and summer wear^are now being sent over from the foreign mo diste*, and also turned out by the large American houses in such quanti ties that it is possible to get a tery good idea of what the fashionable child's clothes are to be like. There seem* to be a great deal of rSchnos*. both In the material and decoration of the new garments. Picturesque effects In headgear are very dominant, while among th« frocks ene coats are a sur prising number of garments made en tirely of Irish lace, certainly an ex travagant fabric for juvenlje wear. The little lac« coats and frocks are indeed beautiful, and although generally speaking they would seem too,extrava gant and elaborate, there; are occasions when they would be In order, for In stance, when the child Is to go out in tbe carriage on fashionable thorough fares. Handsome Lace Coats It is the fabric Itself which makes the fashionable child's lace frock. and coat elaborate, for, as if to make up for any overelaboratlon of i effect In this, the' torment Is usually made up along very simple lines. This does not de. tract . from the'. expenslvenes* of the garment, however, for these tiny frocks are put together with the greatest skill, so that the design of the frock and that of the lace accentuate each other by the method of arrangement. One little frock so arranged was made of allover lace of a very open mesh, though heavy In quality, and this was trimmed with bandsof very heavy lace having a strong, simple design and put on like • applique. The frock } was very long walsted. wlih'a very shallow skirt. It had a shallow, square yoke but a sharply denned. Pinall waist. 'Al^ rooit all . gowns and wraps' are made\ with the effect of falling off the shoul der, and the shoulder seam Is very long, so that the sloping shoulder has come back Into fashion. There are tome of the heavy lace, and from:thls.verti cal lines of thft lace t ran down to the shallow skirt. The belt came far. below the waist llnel The belt' was - formed ', hy a horizontal band of lace and': there" were two «uch bands about th« bottom . of the skirt. The'sleeve was very, short and finished above" th«. elbowrwlUi * rather elaborate cuff arrangement more, suited to a woman than to,a chlld.v A" unique feature of this frock .was tlie.^ embroidered muslin- band around th« ; bottom \u25a0 of the skirt and the : bottom of \u25a0 the sleeve. .The little frock, was 'made'; up over muslin instead of silk, the ef^'. feet being much better for a child,' and; th e , muslin was allowed to show . below • skirt and sleeve. It was turned up ln;a hem and, delicately embroidered with a fine vine. W-' ;; • \u25a0 : '-^"^ •\u25a0•. • .\u25a0'•:''\u25a0-> An \u25a0 Irish lace ; coat, made ; ln -\u25a0 *.'\u25a0 pla!n s box shape without a yoke,". and; widen- / ing toward . th* bottom,, was lined* with ; white bengaline. . ;It , • was \u25a0 •trimmed ; around > the bottom, up the v front y and" around >the neck \u25a0 with white . silk braid - put on in'atralght bands and edged with., white 'ball; fringe. The coat was long but , the : *leeves .were very i short, not' reaching to thel elbow,' and \u25a0 falling/ fr«« without a cuff. They were; indeed, • - little more than caps. These were, quite/ plain, flat at the topland'.wldenlfig to» v * ward the bottom; and .edged j with k the ;. braid and fringe. Two. bands of crushed « white satin ribbon -.were carried -over.v the tops of the sleeves from -front, to \ back, ending, in small-bows.* ' The'coat -; was trimmed down, the front; with", four eatin bows set on at equal intervals "toY cover. the fastenings.; ; v .\u25a0/.\u25a0; •;. •:.-.\~\\\V^ Beally more; charming than tho. lace ; frocks and coats are the new lingerie ' creations "r for i- children. ;' 'These v<t are ;i trimmed, with -ValencJennes;\Cluny; e.nA\ Irish' lace aodi.wlth flncembreideryjand -* stitching." They, are '.very ; «ipenslye*' and ' most becoming-. to childish bcauty.r . >\u25a0 y -*\u25a0\u25a0'. * . \u25a0 \u25a0 *'* \u25a0 ""\u25a0 "-'?*' .•\u25a0*\u25a0*\u25a0. - women: who are-blessed, with \ialrty sloping "houldersand who looki.wfiH.inN thin "style; of ; dress,: but it ; requires a very smart figure and a well \u25a0•.:. made gown to prevent the majority of women from looking : rather . dowdy ? with the One fascinating lingerie coat; for a small child ..was made of white batiste and Cluny lace over pink silk. .The coat w»» long, with a square yoke, the lower" parUof the coat; which was gathered: on^ this* yoke, being very. full. Over' the :yoH6'* : fell a' deep cape of the batiste and.; Cluny. : The : ccat .was, trimmed around, the bottom, tip the. front':and around-the'bottom'of fie cape with a cascade ruffle of the batisto."; The ruf fled .down "the v front w*>r« caught h«re and-there,wlth pink satin ribbons. Tli*, Cluny employed was qqite narrow.' both Insertion and edging being used onHhe ruffles "and cape. : I- . V The lace? and lingerie, coats are not " the T only- new features of thi3 . season's children's creatioriK.,, Silk and, flnc cloth, coats wi 11 also be very popular. ; A' very . ji(>w cloth coat for achihl hus Just been, Imported ifx'om- Paris.; The coat - was: made; ot; very -light biscuit broadcloth ' and: trimmed 'with -, narrow bands rof " knife-pleated.: golden - c browns satin :and . very,- narrow Irish' i edging. , [There were . rowsof Uhe Pleated satin and tho edg- I Ing, around fthetbottom; of. theYsklrt, up '. the ; front and around the - yoke. 'The most .peculiar? feature of ; the, coats was, the i sleeves, .which were very, long; and : wide" and .shaped 'like- kitnono sleeves.' They kwere* not* caught -in at - the cuff, ; but.fell'^ free and; were 'much* wider -at" the bottom than'at' the top. \u25a0 ; Silk iamdf Lingerie Frocks ' \u25a0 '• \u25a0\u25a0 TheyTwere flat and Bin all ; at \ the arm- * hblesiv The sleeves ; fell -in points on the 7 lOTreriTedge, \u25a0 the ' Cupper; -part tbelng? caught l\ up ' Jp V tho into * pleats ~j arid > fastened -. with : rows ;: of ; the ' satin ? pleating, and ' lace."J" These freshed . from ;' thejupper|part*of ; the armhole toHhe : lower; edge; of < the sleeve.'V" :'-.'-. '."^There V-; are^v also . most"- . fascinating fancyVf rocks j for? children /.among \ thc^ new; Importations:': '"Among- these aid \u25a0 : ' .' „ - \u25a0 " - \u25a0\u25a0•. \u25a0 to'ng.snoulder seam effect. ; Jn order to counteract the .ugly features , of this fashion many. of tho waists and jackets are trimmed in such a , way that there are folds,: over; the shoulders x>t\trim thing orf of 'the: material of the, gown manynmde with separate suimpe* and sleeves of lace; or embroidered.. muslin. One such dress was . of white bengaline silk with a dull finish, made box pleated and very Uong- walstcd,' in a,. Russian, 'blouse effect. The" belt of the Bilk was trimmed with ' fancy, stitching. >" and. French : knots, and « was '"\u25a0\u25a0run' through loops. The. three-quarter; sleeves, of medium fullness.', w^re not fastened into a t:uff. ..They,; were finished .with*. a trlmml.ng.'of» French: knots. With:thls f roc!: were worn a guimpe ' and sleeves : 6f Irish laof*. • - . "' For a larger child there was a frock of whttC; embroidered ) .muslin:"- There wag a new, idea inthetrlmmlng of ; this-, frock which might well bo utilized for . a. number of summer costumes v for .both \u25a0 children and adults. ;' The -muslin or batiste was -embroidered In" a striped design, stripes of the plain goods alter nating ilwlth - the embroidered -stripes.,, For trimming .the ernoroidered" stripes, had -been "cut out: of • the j material; and were ' used .-^'crosswise •<. to ~ the ' design-^-' that Is, \ tho stripes In : the. material ; ran '•\u25a0 up; .and; down;:; but -the, embroidered: ; bands;had been* cut out and wer> ', used ; fortthe' belt, I . the bordcrof the skirt and : they 'finish: of the /yoke, running cross wlsev' iFour x bands -wefe/usedr in this mannerto trlmlthcboTttpm oC tho skirt; ; being iUsed|asHnsertionyvW'-ltlr;foather stitching on either side.^jvThe top;of;tlie' ski rt f was finished -with" a**hallow; yoke . of Cluny. :. The> belt ;,was *: made; of six v rows s o'f \u25a0 shirring,' and' above -.this was another band* of, Cluny. iThfriWaiat! had a shallow square yoke of Cluny.; finished * On] either side i with ; bands ; of .'.the em- - broidery/ ; and - leathers titchinj;..-.- -The sleeves • were most 'curiously ' forraedrin a. sort -of \u25a0\u25a0 shawl -; ; effect;" bo '^ that x the/ : stripes lot ' the f material diagonal. ' • meetlnS"'in'^ points on',topjof^tho;a.rm.. The before being- made'into' tho'slccves had ib'ecn: pleated in so that ' . \u25a0 "..*,-'\u25a0' '; /-/:... Itself, and Ihese. folds are s* draped'as to give a little more height than when the -waist literally falls down below the shoulder line. The eloping shoulder effect Is shown to the greatest advantage in the new evening wraps.. or. to speak more cor rectly, in the theater wrap, which is decidedly reminiscent of. old days. The double cape on the circular order, but cut away in front, is a favorite for th.tfs spring 1 , and while, as has been «hll it is not generally- becoming «x c -pUns tJ a woman who has naturally 3l.>D!nsr shoulders^ tt is expected that it \vi\\ b* worn by square-shouldered "rronfcfi a~ well. Fortunately the best of th«so models have rather graceful lines, sj xtiut there Is more excuse for the fashion than exists ia many of the [models intended for the gowns. These double circular cloaks, made In the taf feta or cloth, are fascinating: In their novelty, They are trimmed with shirred bands of chiffon..." headed with rather an elaborate pattern of lace in three cornered effect, the lace of the heavy variety. The" color of the cape can be of any pale shade or black, but It must l»e confessed it looks far better in the light shades^ than In black, although for mourning the black is -.very smart. Th« chiffon matches the color of the material, the lace is either dye«l to match it also br is In cream white over a color to match the material. The cape does not fasten, excepting with a fancy buckle or ornament with long ends. There are no buttons, for in stance, or clasps, and it ir a most graceful garment. As a carriage wrap this, must be made with less elaborate trimming. Theshape is a good one for almost anything, and yet it must be stated that, it would not look half co well made up less elaborately. The trl:uniing, for instance, teems "to be so •xnuch part and paieel of it that it would not look so attractive In plainer finish. 'In sharp contract to the drooping the <plain material was not seen, and there was. a solid surface of embroid ered stripes. On top of the sleeves where the stripes met there were Cluny ,„ insertions, and a little undersleeve of the lace reaching to the elbow finished the sleeve. Another, embroidered muslin frock was trimmed with Irish laceA The lace was used In a band around the skirt and -for. th» square yoke and short alcoves. This frock was made what in the Russian blouse effect, its very low belt being formed of three rows of shirring". The unique feature of the dress was the way in which the -. skirt was finished, no. ruffle or hem.be- V.mc I used, b\jt simply a very narrow '. edging of Irish lace. Hats in Straw and Silk < r.V; Spring" boanets> for the youngsters , : are : also picturesque. -They are in leg horn, silk, tulle, laco And lingerie, but most of all in a fine silk straw : braid. * --One'< old-fashioned yellow straw bon <\u25a0 net, the straw.: being: of a very ; elab ,orate design, was in the poke bonnet ; shape, : with blue chiffon shirred inside the 'brim and trimmed with .blue-'chlf-' fon. : blue satin ribbon" and bunches of blue coj£s!lps. Thero was a bisr leg- I horn^bonnet faced with pale, coral col ored chiffon, 'with long .strings of the * chiffon -to tie under the chin." 4 It was .'trimmed with* a wreath of tiny pinks around the crown, and even the. upper part of ; the. brini was' covered with the '\u25a0• coral chiffon. •A biff pink: taffeta hat had a full * cru^h 'crown .of the ellk and * a"; fairly wide .', brim: covered with the . material \u25a0 made ; Into -tiny knife pleatings. There •were ; pleatings under the : brim, too. £ The iha'tjwas; trimmed with branches of - moss : rosebudß, 1 ; with ; ; very.; lofiff , stems and, a- good deal of greenish yellow •' foliage. shoulder is th* sttf a that calls for quite a short shoulder «eara and a aleev* that is set high into the arrnhols, aod this is displayed to the greatest ad vantage in the fitted coats that bar-* long skirts and that are made up in the figured silks and In lace. They* are extremely new, although they wer« "worn toward the latter part of the season In Paris last summer and make up • especially well in the new bro caded, and flowered silks that are to be found in so many fascinatingly at tractive shades that have not been y«t seen. There can be a variety of col orings. .or there. can be the favorite color scheme worked out— that is, oae or two shades of the same color com bined. while the trimming is of a still deeper shade. A very charming coat of this description is made In twr» shades of a very light sray. trinim*.! with a plain taffeta of the same color, but a much darker shade. The taffeta is put, on in the collar, bands around the sleeves and In flaps or tabs down the front, whi<h are held down by a rhlnestone or a cut steel button. The sleeves are large, and the fullness In arranged most becomingly, so that it is at, the top of the sleeve and falls gracefully down to just above the el bow, where, as has been said, it is fin ished with a band of plain taffeta and the fancy button. Fancy Coats in Figured Silk The pompadour silks, the pinks and blues, are charming In these coats, and if so desired, the trimmings can be of velvet instead of silk. Rather a start ling, though very smart effect, is ob tained by the black and white figured pllfe with black velvet trimmings, and although. this is too eccentric, or rath er too marked, to be generally recom i.vtnded. .it Is certainly effective, and -can be vrorn over any one of the fancy lingerie or embroidered crepe gowns that will be just as fashionable this year as they wtre last. A pale pink batiste, crepe de chine or silk gown Is charming worn with a pink and.white figured silk coat of this description, trimmed with pale pink taffeta, and then a hat or pink straw with white or pink feathers, seems to complete the color effect In a most fascinatingly satisfactory manner. The same Idea, of course, can be car ried out in bluo und white, but some how the pink is the smartest of all. It requires a good figure to wear a coat of this kind, and yet it might more truthfully be said it requires a good dressmaker or tailor to make such a coat, for its very simplicity and sever ity'of outline allows any fault of cut to show to terrible disadvantage, bat it will not be long before the mystery of its-construction will be possible for almost any dressmaker, and certainly those women who can afford to pay the prices asked by the art»sts at their trade of dressmaking cannot find a .touch more satisfactory way of spend ilng" money than in so distinctive and effective a model. It Is quite too early in the season for the lingerie, gown to make Its appear ance, but there Is somehow more than 'a hint of It In some of the theater gowns that are turned out for spring ; wear. and. in truth, the same models will be seen later on in such material as batiste or fine lawn that are now shown in crepe de chine or taffeta. of • a very soft quality. These- gowna are work* o* art In, the manner in which they, are madci as well as in thetrimV mlng that is used on them. The bands of lace Insertion or of e:nbroldery ar« so put oa the gown that they outline the figure.; At the saraeitlrae they show : the" beauty of the trimming. There is something. It must be admitted, rather stiff in the effect as seen In the model, but the sown . itself, finished and worn by; a woman with any grace whatever, Is very charming. The yoke Is a mass of, embroidery, and the" front of the gown is also a mass of embroid ery, while the back of the sown has the same embroidery.