The San Francisco call. [volume], March 17, 1907, Page 14, Image 14

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
A YOUNG GIRL'S
JEWELRY
*"\u25a0\u25a0'\u25a0
• » m | HO believes In that old earing
\ V / "Beauty unadorned Is adorned
Y/Vf most?" Surely none of the fair
.: . , ccx reigning today. If on» is to
draw any eort of a conclusion from
appearances. There never was & time
Jn the history of the civilised world
Vben women, young and old, pos
sessed such a quantity of Jeweled
ornaments as they do at the present
moment. The rage for personal orna
m Is remarkable, and It has been
long lived. Ornaments of every de
scription are seen, and even young
girls, girls of the schoolday age. sub
debutantes, as It were, have their own
eets of Jewelry and follow the fads of
the hour ac eagerly and religiously as
flo their elders.
It has always been one of the heavi
est crosses school girls have had to
bear to be told thaCthey must not «s«
for pretty gold and Jeweled trifles; that
they must wait until their formal bow
Las been made to smart society before
they can hope to revel In the spark.
and gleam of lots of Jewels, as did tl
fair Marguerite. It seems a long wa
to the girl in her early teens, and, I
tide her over until that rosy time win •
she Is declared a fullfledged eocie .
bud, the arbiter of fashion and fad
assisted by indulgent mothers, has de
creed that this charming young person
ehall be allowed to have a few orna
ments all for her very own. These are
esiznple, of course; the very height of
simplicity and chasteness. but they
bring a lot of comfort and joy to the
girl In her teens and teach \,her some
thing of the Intrinsic and ornamental
Value of more elaborate effects.
Precious stones, with the exception
cf pearls, ere not for her. She must
content herself with those that come in
the semiprecious class and with quaint
effects In gold and silver.
The present tendency in the way of
neck ornaments for the young girl fol
lows that observed in more elaborate
ones. Necklaces are quite short and
fit close about the throat in a dog col
lar effect. If they are enhanced with
pendants they may be somewhat looser,
but short necklaces are indeed very
short. There is an excellent reason
for having them so for a girl on ac
count of the cut of her decollete. The
neck of her frocks is never really low.
and there is so little of her 'neck and
shoulders shewing above the bodice
curve that it can scarcely be termed
a decollete.
While amethysts belong by right to
the precious stone class, still, when
they are uncut, they are comparatively
A NEW TRICK IN PHOTOGRAPHY FOR AMATEURS
THE veracity of the camera has
been brought once more into dis
pute. It is only a Ehort time
since the statement that the
camera cannot lie was universally ac
cepted, but suspicion of many of the
photographic process nowadays is very
general There are as many tricks In
the photographic trade as in any other.
Perhaps the newest photographic trick
of the camera is that of reproducing
scenes from real life, but with a curious
effect of light and shade which strong
ly suggests that of a bas-relief. The
high lights and shadows are flattened
and the lines seem to take on a peculiar
edge. Many of the effects obtained iv
tbls way arc very striking.
It U a very easy matter to make
these bas-rcllcf effects, and one which
any amateur may readily master. The
process is inexpensive and takes little
time A great advantage of the process
Is that the negative may be used for
the purpose, even a poor one, and that
after the operation the original nega
tive is quite as good as new and may
k>« printed from indefinitely. Negative*
—either films or glass — may be used
for the purpose. In the final prints
a very attractive effect is obtained by
using a paper which will take a dark
\u25a0epla tone, when an effect of bronze
may be produced of surprising natural
ness.
The rucecss of the bas-relief «ffect
depends largely upon the subject used.
A little practice will soon show what
pictures lend themselves bent to the
process. Pictures of buildings, in fact,
any view which reproduces many
straight lines, will make good bas
relief effects, but tt is best to have the
lines as timpl« as possible and the
general effect broad and well defined.
When the pictures show a complicated
-design, as of a very elaborately orna
mented building, the "effect is likely to
be confuEinp. Portrait?, especially
profiles, make rood relief effects. 6ome
of the most successful of these pictures
fete made from pictures of foliage, es
pecially of the heavy foliage of trees
or of thick shrubbery.
Choice of Negatives
A fairly good negative should be
used In making the bas-relief. It Is im
portant that the lines be t*s sharply
defined as possible. A cloudy negative
or one In which the Image is not very
sharp will be found less satisfactory.
The only outfit necessary Is that which
will be found in any photographic dark
room or In the possession of any ama
teur who develops and prints his own
pictures. A printing frame, a nnmber
of films and an ordinary developing so
lution, with trays, win be all that . is
necessary.
The effect of flatness In a bas-relief
is due obviously to the lack of contrast
between the shadows and the. high
lights. The whole picture is dulled. In
other words, since the high lights nave
lost their clearness, while the shadows
or darkened surfaces are lightened. The
edges, again; seem.. to cast a shadow,
thus affording 1 the appearance of relief
or raised surfaces. Now, to produce
this effect a positive is first made from
the negative, exactly reproducing it, of
course, in elre. Now place the positive
and negative together ao that one Im
age exactly overleaps the other, and the
•*kcct of a bas-rcllcf is exactly rep.ro-
inexpensive and so simple withal that
they are allowed to occupy a place in
the young girl's jewel casket. Gems
that sparkle are the ones for girls to
avoid, even Imitation gems. Despite
the fact that the old feeling against
the wearing of imitation Jewelry has
been almost entirely uprooted, this has
made no difference in the girl's realm.
She must be as careful to confine her
choice of ornaments to the modest
kind as she ever was.
Bangles seera to belong almost ex
clusively to girls. They only seem to,
however, for arms that are not pretty
and young looking and molded in all
the grace and beauty of youth adorn
duced. The dark places in the nega
tive are white in the positive, and the
white places are. of course, reversed in
the suit way. One linage exactly nul
lifies the other, and if a print be mad«
through this combination the effect I*
an exceedingly flat and uninteresting
picture.
In making the print, however, if th«
two image* be slipped <a trifle to one
ride or. rather, toward one corner, the
Images no longer overlap exactly and
a dark line is Introduced below and to
the side of every line In , the original
picture. If a print now be made
through the negative and positive the
appearance of flatness is/ thrown into
relief by the shadowed line and hence
tins effect of a bas-relief. It , is, of
course, important that the positive and
negative should both have about the
Mine density, so that th* shadows will
be neutralized and the effect be as flat
as possible.
In case the original negative be a
small one it will be possible to make a
single positive from it. and afterward
as many prints as are desired from the
two. In case the negative la- a ; large
one— even five by seven inches or
more — It will b* found that the film in
drying contracts slightly, and will not
correspond with .the original' negative
when It comes to making the print
through them both. It is therefore bet
ter to make a positive on a film, and'
when this Is dry make a negative in
turn from thin positive, also on a film.
When these two are dry they- will, be
found to exactly correspond. \ It >is ob
vious," of. course, that the positives, or
the secondary negatives, must bo mads
on films in order to retain the; proper
focus. If it were necessary,, to -print
through glass with . a film "On the re
verse side the lines would be- dulled
and the sharp effect on which the bas
relief depends for Its effect . would *be
lost. VmBSHBKKtSBBni
When -the -positive and negative, are
both dry they should be placed face to
face and printed In the- ordinary, way
in a printing frame. If two films are
being used It will;, of course,; be neces
sary to place a dear, glass in the frame.
Now, put the negative and positive! to
gether, so that the two pictures exactly
correspond> or overlap,;* and- "-holding
Lbem up. to the light move -one* film
cHsrhtly toward one corner, preferably
themselves with. bangles. and bracelets.
The young girl wears a simple bangle
on her arm, and your eye is at once
attracted to its curves, its plumpness
and its delicate flesh. The woman of
several . seasons wears bangles- and
bracelets partly to conceal the defi
ciencies in line and beauty of mold
and texture of skin. .
One of the favorite bangles for a
young girl is a hoop of gold, either
chased or plain. There should be no
stones set in the gold for, her, but the
gold may be elaborately carved with
out making it inappropriate to wear.
Double rows of Indian cut garnets set
in a dark colored gold, or a dull sliver,
the lower ..right .hand corner. ; When
the two are adjusted . lay them in . the
frame on a teble.\ 'still keeping .one
hand firmly 'on -the ; prints Ho -prevent
them * slipping. . . Next* place 'a', sheet , of
sensitized ..paper, in -the ,;frame and
clamp in : tne - ordinary . manner. The
greatest care should -oe taken \u25a0to keep
the films * or . the T paper, from ;< slipping
when putting in .the paper or clamping
the frame back in the printing. frame.;-;
Exposure and; Developmen t',
" It will be' found necessary to give the
print a very long: exposure compared
with that^ necessary; * for ; printing
through the • single negative. :;! Depend T
ing .-\u25a0 upon the ' negative '\u25a0 the : exposure
will have to .be -probably ' six '• or 'eight
times that required under ordinary cir
cumstances. ;• If the .negative be dense
It may even be necessary to; print with
direct sunlight^or* by ; the v aid /of "an
arc « lamp. ,The : paper > used t for prints
ing should contrast as much as possible.
Even at the expense of detail It is im
portant that the contrast between 'light
and ehadow should be as sharp as pos
elble.V .These V, rules i'japply.^ofiCpurser
when the so-called 'EasUilit papers are
are liked for their quaintness and
beauty. However, only "certain types
of girls will find these . ruby.-hued
stones becoming and, besides, they
make rather an ornamental piece: of
jewelry for youth and simplicity. A
circle of tiny pearls set on a fine gold
wire presents a charming -picture. A
certain . girl here possesses one like
, this mat-has descended to her from her
1 grandmother, and so fond of it has she
il grown that probably no circlet of dia
: monds or emeralds that may be given
to her a few years hence will.be. so
highly prized by her as Is £he simple
little band of exquisite small pearls.
, Another bangle to which she fell heir
used. In making .solid: or platinum
prints, ." however, ; the \ relation f to ,. the
length : of the-, exposures >will . be the
"same.""--./ -:\". \u25a0\u25a0:';- .-^\u25a0\-\ : C; \u25a0S. : -\- \u25a0:-'•-\u25a0 '.'
x -The* main difficulty^ encountered v will
be-in ; getting I the i right < adjustment |of
the two images, « the positive and
tive. > If one be slipped too far over the
other,' and s the two ; images ; are \ too* f a.r
apart, lan \u25a0 effect v will \be "had ' much': the
same . as when ;In '/color ; printing * the
press . falls ito[{ register/; and the f colors
do' ; , . not <'f correspond , with ;- ths ? "line
drawings.'.. If,*"; on * the " other^ hand, one
i s nnto t moved t far enou gh. there j will bo
no edge. or relief line,, and the. picture
will be merely fiat and nothing more.
It -* is ,\u25a0 interesting : ln :thls > connection i to
shift the 'two i images, printing the line
first » on one*; side ; then ; another. ";V A; va
riety-of >. effects tmay ,be>;had and •« the
possibilities of 'a negative .the better
brought; out:: " ;
As a general thing architectural sub-
Jects lend themselves best to this treat
ment. In selecting negatives again it
wlll/bevfoundimostfBjitlsfactory>inUhe
end'itojuseronlylthoselwlthibroadfcon
trasts; and Teffects-liWhen^the l negative
contains ; a ; great i many ! fins * and' intri-
Is a small, golden hoop ornamented-, on
top with ; .'three cabochon amethysts.
This makes a very ; pretty, piece of Jew
elry, and, is Just .old fashioned enough
to be quite moderns ii /,;',- ;"'-.-\u25a0-';"'-.
\u25a0-' Bracelets are' having their Inning, too,
though they are usually ratherrornate
to be shown to adorn the young. •:\u25a0 The
prettiest and most ;: fashionable ones
are made of beautiful stones : linked
together, and., semiprecious gems are
=,cate:ilries there Is; likely* tor beV«ome
confusion in changing the register. The
•'average scene," f or ; instance^
;' whero .the buildings aro riot too* finely
-, drawnr^will : answer admirably.!'-; In stich
- a picture the doorways .'and '..windows
- should i show/ in \u25a0 high ; relief..; c.The ' most
r familiar, streetj scene [or 1 tiie \u25a0 mostf com-,
,' mbhplace ? h"ouses^when 'treated Hn f this
\u25a0way take on<a'new,'and strange appear
: ance.. : .; .%\u25a0;. ; ; : - "a'Vv "• ',\u25a0';>•' r*\kii : S~
One , of , the ; surprises of the, process Is
'. toVwatctij the ' unexpected \u25a0 transf orma'r
ftiont' which '^"c'dmes "a over £ the "* average
landscape'-. when *:prlnted-^in »reHef.*i;lt
might be supposed that the change even
;: of i ,a % i fraction ;of ; Inch hbetween ?. the
\u25a0\u25a0: negative and positive in printing' would
' merely blur ;; and • confuse I tha picture,
vln^ the; majority; of . cases, - however, the
_ follagelof ; trees. and. bushes,,even\when
Is they.v are • very>-flne,'kwillt"give"; excellent
' results."^ v Tho V body ; of * the >" foliage ? ap»
pears strangely flat, while the dark line
'(_ serves ?to -throw % them i. into ; relief. In
Jsuch^ pictures 1 the "increased Tcbhtrast
K between*. the) high <• lights J and' shadows
;lfof ten?,' serve rto .give ~~ h an i entirely new
the* production.;;^ i/ii^ \u25a0';' ' ',"J
?: The \u25a0'reproduction *"of , portraits ';.' is* ani
not Always effective when made up in
this ' style. - . Narrow bands of woven
gold wire with several strands braided
together susrs««t a century long- past.
and are liked for/thls very character
istic. They must-be narrow, however,
if they are to figure on a very youth
ful arm. Wide ones are left entirely
to women. ! \u25a0:\u25a0 \u25a0\u25a0.'. .'-...
In rings there is a wide choice, so
long., as the- stones are small, of no
*rt in itself. While. almost any por
trait, either profile or full face, may-be .
made into a^ relief picture with more
or .less fsuecess. much," of course. '.'<>«•«
pends ; upon \ the; choice of the negative;
In most vcatcs;; there is an "•\u25a0' effect or
caricature^ which is very often "amuj- \u25a0
Mrs. Tingley's Is an Autocratic Rule
"T"HAT Katherine • Tingley,* head of tho
. I Theosophic'al Brotherhood; at- Point
Loma. Cal., is as strong a personality
and as capable* a~ leader as Mary . Baker
.G.Eddy of the Christian Science church
la the .' Impreaslon one j get» f roni '- Ray
Stannard : Baker's , description of - the
;bfothcrh66<l ' Sn'the American Magazine.
.Although ; Baher does . not mention Mrs.
*is hardly .' possible that-, the
r eader, could ( ' fiil to; thinJt^ofPhef In
connection -with v the . graphic picture of
iirs. , Tlngley, that" is presented.. '
'Upon; a [point of lend, reaching, far
out liito\ the.' Pacific l Ocean, 'some,^ five
hundred ; men,'; women and children, .who
make up the Theosophlcal Brotherhood
at 5 Point ; Loma,^ in ,Sah Dlego<^ County,'
have -bulltfupja'- wonderful -community,
.Where, .clad, in^unlforras,' all- work. free,
where every Jonej; eats ;, ln;: a r common
"dining-room.' iwhere"; even, the children
are reared,* not by their parents, but In
community {groups" by* expert > nurses. •
;--: Baker/, visited » the r remarkable ;, com
munity'and'he Hdls. of !tne ; Interesting
activities "of the^ people"., of the: faith
which ;' Inspires them; < and 'of \u25a0' the . able
woman who:leadS;them. ; <.;•. > \u25a0-, -....«
..Among viths - members of
the^ brotherhood; are :^ "A... Gi Spaldlng.
the^ famous f sporting - goods '* manufac
turer: ».W.'C.^Temple, wealthy;Plttsburg
manufacturer; Clark Thurston. former
presldentvf American I- Screw.
F3M." Pierce ' of the Pierce* Engineering
Company'of ; New; York; ,W., Ross, Whit©,
prominent * Georgia * manufacturer; - W.
F.\Hanson, '.Georgia; inventor of ; cotton
weaving machine; R. Machele, English
artist; « Miss = Herberts sister >of Hhe for
mer,-British fMlnister. td the ; United
States. .; :V- .*-\u25a0:«-,.\u25a0.. w '\u25a0 \u25a0\u0084 -\u25a0' .....-;
Ex-Secretiry !Gasre, .though'-. 'not' a"
gr«xt vaia» and ar« lneonsplcadtu. It
would be a, groat gnklndnuM t* 4»
rrlre slrls of this one pretty Htt2»
trinket, of which they have hart flMMtsfr
drums and for wM«!i overy ess e|
them has longed sine* she wa* old
enough to want any thing very xtmeb*
A ring I* th« first bit of Jewelry tit •>
girl desires to own, tad SO «*«& Chil
dren are sometimes permitted to *4nto
their tiny fingers with email gold baafls
and occasional •tores. Clustsrs) of
pearls are quaint and appropriate tad
co are tur quo lees. especially toy vtol»t
eyed demoiselle*.
In the realm of broechM ess cssssot
possibly go Into details, for th«re ar*
so many little designs that are per
mitted quits correctly to adorn thst girl
of tender years. So long as a brooch is
not made up of costly gems. In a gen
eral way It Is. suitable for almost any
member of the fair sex. There ars
many dainty enamel effects, both In
the thick kind and the delicate trans
lucent, that suggest by their very col
oring and form the. spring budding
time of girlhood. In this field alone
the choice is almost unlimited*
fng. but if the worl: be pn pe»i>
such pictures may have a hlgS artistic
value. Care should be taUen to make
tho positive .of the same value as th«
original negative, so that when printed
together the high lights and sbadow«
should be flattened as much as| JSJ2VI«
bleJ TUe positive should be shifted
rather farther to one sMa or one cor
ner; than in most plctur*s. The effect
should be as broad as possible.
\u25a0 member. |j a re»jdeat of Point Lomt.
and deeply interested in the Institution.
-Baker says* of Mrs. Tingley:
"I spent a whole day at Point Lomi
before I met Mrs. Katherine Tlngley.
.And. all that time I was saying to my
self:-To do this or that, a leader must
have such a quality, or such, or such:
for every: Institution is the lengthened
, shadow; of a man.
'When, therefore. I, met Mrs. Tlngley
I- felt in on* way well acquainted wltii
ihtr.; I.aat next* her at the concert xn
the evening and afterward we talbca
for several hours.
"The first and perhaps the strongest
Impression she gives Is one of virility:
life.- A "tout woman of medium height
without a grcj. hair In her head, and
dark; restless, eager eyes.' Her dress
impressed even the unobservant eyes
.of a man by its elegance; her step was
decided: her voice imperative. She Is
pre-eminently the power of the Institu
tion; a clear, strong, practical mind.
"I have; spoken of Mrs. Tingley as a
strong- leader. She Is wore than that;
shells a complete autocrat. She says
herself :\u25a0. \oifiSflDE9B&ff
vr 1 The government ; of ,, the Universal
Bro therhood is . autocratic and rests en
- \ y , U l the fcands of the leader and
official head, who has the < privilege of
nominating her successor.*.
v f£ ea i lsr \ a "' :lc not »"•" tn c Property
of^the Institution, which is now exten
sive- and valuable. Is In the;personal
name of Mrs.; Tlngley; she controls It
absolutely.; Alt ah^buslnesa affairs, the
competitive struggle for existence of
me \u25a0 entire community;- are centered
upon Mrs. Tingleys shoulders. She
fighti t.:the • business battle: they live
the Ideal ; life. ; , " .
. r "Ai . for the money: to finance the en
terprise. 'It: comes/ Mrs.- Tlngley says.
Rich \ men have, contributed freely and
the r schools themselves • are • bow -a.
source of 'steaOy- iaceme."