The San Francisco call. [volume], March 31, 1907, Page 11, Image 11

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

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The San Yraocisco Sunday Call
PARIS FASHIONS IN CLOTH CHIFFON
AND SILK COATS
SPRING fashions are, If pceslble.
more attractive this year than
ever, and are fairly bewildering
in their variety and coloring, so
that in fact it is difficult to decide
a mone all there are to decide - from.
There are a» usual any number of
smart costumes with coat and skirt to
match; but this year these are not the
only ones that are smart, and there
are a great many more separate wraps
than usual — those made of cloth, silk,
chiffon, lace and In fact every material
that has ever been known that could
be put into a wrap.
The htlf-fittlnsr loose coat effect with
sleeves is for the moment more popu
lar than anything on the cape or cloak
order, and everything seems to be loose
lather than . tight fitting, although a
close inspection shows in" the new
models that the lines of the figure are
followed, if not defined; in other words,
while the coats are loote they are not
*hape]ess, and at the same time they
are becoming both to Mout ond slender
figures. They are not plain, in fact
almost without exception they are
quite elaborate in detail, with a lot
nt trimming, and often with two or
thr«« different materials combined In
their composition. They are al*o not
made on any regulation pattern, and
it would seem at though there were to
he marked Individuality about them,
as there ie about ell Ihe fashions of
the moment, for they »»em suited to
each individual wearer, »o that,every
body will not look ss though gowned
on Just the tame Ilnet. »
The Old-Fashioned Mantle
Tfiirf li a. difference, too, in . tht
I'.ntrth of th*se coats. Very few ©I
them art Jong enough to entirelj- cover
the fown itself, but ttoey go a. long way
toward" covering st, for many of them'
come very nearly to the hem of the
ekirt, that is, If worn over 8* short
ekirt; but then this Is not the style
of varment to be worn with a short
skirt/ at It la so extremely elaborate
that Jt i* only suited to the more
elaborate style* that call for Jons; and
trimmed skirts. One •of ' the moU
marked features about this style of
garment 1* (hat It Is quite different
from anything of the same style that
lias been fashionable in dsys gone by.
U if more on the etyle of the old-fash
ioned mantie coat, which required to
be heavily trimmed ' with lace end em
broidery, and in (wmer dayi wts more
or. less relegated to older women. In
these modern times, however, it is
quit* as suitable for young wonvn, and
in truth teems to look especially well
on a smart young- girl. At the same
time It Is very •comforting to older
women to know that there is a', gar-
rnent of this description that is suit
able for them that 1m at the same timr
; becoming. Furthermore, it con be
worn by' t lie latter at all* times, where
as wlien worn by young - women -it
is eultable only for driving 'or for the
evening. •._-..-.
Bilk is a material that' this year is
to be more popular than ever,' and the
soft finished silks are charming in' the
long coats, whether made quite plain
or elaborately trimmed. The- shops for
several years bow have been filled with
all kinds and descriptions of silk coats,
some expensive, others almost alarm
ingly-cheap: but these are not the
same that arc- now made, for these
latent styles arc ou a much more ex
pensive and intricate model, and arc
far more like those that were worn
many years ago for what were then
called "dress occasions." It Js, indeed,
an instance of the extravagance of the
times that these same .coats arc so
casually worn now and nre to be seen
for many other occasions than merely
formal entertainments. The soft fin
ished taffeta silks in black or in light
shades are the ones mou often. chosen,
although Uierej'afc a great inaqy white
ones a» well'bvlnjr made, tip for mid
summer wcar/°The changeable effects
are the ones that arc especially^ new
and are-, very \u25a0' <?ffet+jve in the queer
shades of pink, mauve or pale blue.
There is a slw-d*. for Instance. -of what
was known at oao lime «« "ashes of
roses", that' is very charming and be
coming.
This Is made with a yellowish lace or
with both lace and embroidery.. It Is
intended to be worn over a skirt of
the same material, or over a chiffon
or batiste of very much \u25a0 the same
shade, or white. .The entire costume Is
rather quaint- In appearance; that i*.
when the skirt matches the coat, for
It is one of those colors that belongs
EASTER NOVELTIES IN SOUVENIRS, GIFT PIES AND FLOWER POTS
m a t liß accusation uttered 'so many
* A s '\u25a0 hundred ''years ago against th«
1 Athenians.^that they spent their
time In 'nothing. else but cither
telling or * hearing something . new,
might * be made- with A;qual truth
against this ' day and generation!
; whose persistent? cry Is for novelty,
newness in all thing".- from religion,
to the'eut of a coat." The ardent house
wife is no.wljit ' behind ;the rest of th«
world in her demand; for -'change, /as
j.ny.on«.can tostlfy, who has heard the
constant wail. "Oh/ can"t, you -give- m«
corns good . n«-w 'rcciprw?* I am so . tl red
of; the uld ..JJilhgs."'. Frequently/ she
makes .a' ntiVaakc of ,*firasping; at . the
new;", when, uoyvlty. '*" its. only .'l-econjr
.niei»datlo.v--f-i'd » scillfnce hau ""im part
.in iL \l'u'- b'T^-'inv Auif^rcr-ljics b<-lyiv
tu a period fa iv back, in tlie annals, of
time, and., wiiicli was so marked? then,
a» hut to be forgotten at -the present
time." But, of course," in its present ren
dering it is somewhat .different, or it
maybe that it "is different in remcni
braiice rather /than, in reality,
/The soft finished' black silks ..made
up in this elaborate style are very
effective and charming. The lace and
embroidery can be black or cream.. as
preferred; and black put over a lining
of white chiffon *is newer than the
cream, and the Chantilly lace hasoncc
-I do not claim, for them absolute s origr
inality. for it is' as ..difflcultito/ find
an 'original - method of ; preparing- eggs
as ; to discover a fruit, .vegetable- or i hut
f.'iiieh has not been- used for salad. A ,. I
' do claim, however,. that the. suggestions
are good onrs/'andaro-far' from being
L in general use, and lhat'as emergency
dishes they;are. valuable. -\u0084.-,•..
Florentine Kggs-^-Thls. is > a/; good
chafing- dish"; recipe,, nice * for; Sunday
night, high tea and^ very delicious., One
dozen, cpgs -boiled .-hard.. ;<et cool;- one
can ..of ; mushrooms . chopped^ fine. ' two
heaping tablespoonfulß- of ' flour, two
heaping*. tablegpoonfuls'of butter,' orio
tabiespoonful^of Vbhloii;- chopped £flric;'
Put butter ;and;b"nlons In i'(,he "cliartng
dish, allow thei onlons^toi f ry;to;a?very,
Hcbt yellow, ri'dd ifloun.Etlrrinsjr&pldty.
••then v two '_cuptulsV of --milk.; i^lnto*: this
turn^.thf, t; hopped ' lnushrbpnis 'and X i\yt:
Vlnippe il. i yikst of 'Jic Sgr<.' -"'Allow.* all Jto
Hp;iiu iconic intu "Avor-for this. 'pur
• ''pose. Then there -;irc tlie -emhruldercd
"nc-ta and, chiffon that are used iustea<l
,of , lace, aud >srain tho^o- are 'combinc-O
wlt!i,"tli« lace to/trinAl'.c one coat. In
"other; words, there docs iiot"- se'cin to
,be "any/fixed law a9. to color; and trlitf
riiings'-.on these coats any: more' than
other .styles '\u25a0_ of /garments^ that
X this -year, both -f or . old ,and
'young. \u25a0 • •\u25a0_\u25a0 ; . .^. _• '/ . \u25a0 \u0084.
" The soft finish on- ail -jnatcriais this
yea r- i s; noUccabiy . popular, Vand i tlie
\u25a0 vJotlia ho lesaHlian the silks have'a fln-
.'cookv together until it r thickens iprop
erly/./seasoa/to.^ taste /with;; salt >and
\u25a0 cayeHne,TP9PP er -% ' Serve/ on -.'a^plattev,
garnish tho '.top, M-i tli the: rings of Uhe
,whltes-/or!theiCifgs. -,/- r -' \u25a0'-. / r--.
Scalloped.:. Eggs^-rTwo; cupfuls '. of
• bread crumbs.itwb cupfuls of .mtlkr.ten
cggs,"/:BollTeggs hard.!(jhop 'whites and
yolks:flnfi'fadd'threftitablesp"oonfuls: r uf
salt/ ono of. black; pepper. 1 * one "heaping
teaspot^rifur'of^mustard^and^stx^tabjei'
apoon (u l? v-V»f " meltedv butter.'. ".'Mix' to- :
jPTetlierVthbrousrhly. ;: .Sprinkle.-. 'in < ' the'
bottonif "of^aVpan :a \u25a0 layer* -of j bread
V:iunibf«/tHcn Ryl«y«f.?o'r,the'ieKg : B}nii.yr'
ture^tlie'h a",lay«r ;_.of jbrcßd;cftmibs'."and'
co on ".until - tlie^pan, is ifulli*". Tour over
thls/thoj"jlk;«na
SITVO. llOt/^'.-^;/'/-''
--"i^Curricd s KggsrrPut^ in a ; saucepan *a'
lieifping- tableapooiiful of *, huttor.-; and
it\9DVj{!tabij.'Spoon»uJ3».: oT' s " flnely;-* minced
\u25a0*nti Ion. :" ' ir*yfi • •'»?.- onions *. to * -n' Oei icut«
ish of this-klnd: that lufmost charming.
Jlh t he: light"- colors' it is more noticeable
than! in; the '' dark, "anil then. It > niusjf'be
i : o*:henibered • tiiat" there /are /. very; few.
<lark i:cats- -of .'.this- description.; I't'he
hiost * popular as*^' In the -"light tans,"
grra^ 1 or s niauve.":.',>s*he!j the*,dark- color?
are'ehosen they are ; bright -arid ratlier
in .appearance, *,RV^"ivld; coral
-^-not j retl— arid a bright li lu'e , being* the
;favorltts.^4'Th*^' b right>-"biue3\trininie4
wtth=- black ; Is iyerj'^atrtklng^apd.; geu»
efally'jispeaking.'r- becoming,^ and v looks
well -i worn over,"- veiling, '.silk, -batiste
or \u25a0 chiffon." It i- can : also i be >, vombined
v.'ith-Mace of the same ricolor^br^inrhitc. 1
but too sharp a co".Jtra»t-"!iv-the "color
•\u25a0'"*, brov, : _n* arid adtt.a -of
;.. cui'ry 'Xpowder./aiiiJ » .tiiroe /cupfuls/ of
/stock,- \Letibbil ten, -'minutes: and^'djrop
-In six hard boiled eygs cut !ri quarters.
"f of : a' good gfavy/- season : salt^and
i'aiittlei lemon juke iu'd serve* hot "'.vitli
. rice:' .'./ / \; W ?'-'* *_://'\u25a0;",/.\u25a0 \u25a0
\u25a0*""' Egafl sricl " Sweetbreads— Boil 'half -a
- doxsn'VegiJs twenty ;*.miuute8 * an'cl • cover
/with/ "cold \u25a0v.'fct« k i > .-; T l*h*:i -reedy -to iuse'
rchop'off" one fend'aniVtake but tliV yolks/
"Itakc'u -paste' l\f 'thcni'and .sftasoi?- with
' salt 'aiid/'peppc'r "chtlfa' s niall tablespoon-^
f til o" ''o'livv oil/ Mix; r.-Jth* throe; table-;
i Bpoonf tUs V^-'oC uiftrejured
•'which hdvc 'bcchiihQppea^fisje.'i Kjllf'the'
\'.'hlt€B r Uif.' \\}<i-eg'&*r and t serve-' bn ; let-;
luce v 1 eti v t-s/ . or . xvi lh . , wa<cix*res3 --and
:\u25a0; mayonnaise : il reM In B.: \u25a0/.'•' '\u25a0.'< *" -
j/vlUggs^i lri'-*Toma.toes>i-7 Cot" "tiie-~ ton*
f : fvonii'«p*ni_any? firoi'toiriiitoesi'aaiyb^'do-
•proi-an.'— -one •for.'eacli- pviraoii; to
of . the trimming* and the material
must necessarily be avoided.
\u25a0 In light gray, in the palest of p!nks.
that are really almost white, are some
charming.garments of this description,
and a great; variety .'of effect :is ob
tained by the lace or embroidery that
is used with the different colors. With
"gray/- a gray fllct lace, fit goes by the
name. of. "Wet," although in reality v
'modern. '-'adaptation of. it); with the
lining of white.; ajnd with, some '-Jabot
of white ;ot- cream lace, at the throat.
orwlthMorig ends. of dotted cream, net,
makes a most eC^ctive combination.
,Thi3 worn, gray is beautiful and
Is atso charming over white. Jn other
i , words, "^theae coats, while in tlsrm
selve«coßiplet?/can be- part of a most
elaborate, costume. <
' '/.--The question as to whether empire
*-and princess. styles arc to bo as popu
lar, as cve>- this spring season do*»s not
aeem.to have bscn Irrevocably decided
either by dressmakers or their cus
tomers. ;: Thcre^is : certainly more than
a .hint' of empire, in , most- of these
-coats, and at, the same time they, do
not possess ; thf. correct empire lines.
Tbe/trlmnilngr /suggests tbe empire
-style/ but , the lines- are different and
are more on,' tJie princess order, until
it, really seems as -though a combina
tion of the two had been. evolved, while
on, the : other ;_ hand there-are features
about ;them that marktheni as distinct
from either. One style of coat* that 13
very, charmirijr . has pleats, clusters of
Sthem/that fall from a fitted yoke.' Tlils
. model Is : much' shorter at the back^
than In the front, tlie. dip that is ob
tained bj* this difference, in length
being: alntoJt : invariably, becoming. This
' model, however, is., much shorter than
-the more popular and, more elaborate
coat'vtliat is made without the pleats—
that : is,f without' the clusters'©* pJeats.'
Chiffon and ; chiffon 'cloth canj both .be
used- >:i malting up any of the models
that are' Illustrated. ; but 'either of- these,
mat<;riale requires to be. pleated, rather
" : than"; plain, as^-they . arc •-. not heavy,
enough in themselves to- look well: and
tn ,thls"Te3pect are different from the
t;lotb.:ailk'or any fabric that possesses
mote; body. / - . ; <-
•..-"So ; matter .hoy.- -light* weight \u25a0'«' cloth
•or. how tljln a silk. ; provided ' it ', be of^
'good.quftllty. it has more substance to
it thairtiavctlie thin materials, and, at
the «an*.e time allovcr lace can bo made
be- serv^Of-i-emove tiie c«pt<?ri with; a
'Uiiife- or/spoon,- 'sprinkle 'i, generously,
'with'*: salt;. and /sot in t!ie oven until
partly cooked... l. itemove from -the" oven
ar.tl carefully break a freth egg into
each tomato, sprinkle with/salt' and
pepper and add to each a ami 11, lump of
butter.' Return -j to > the i. oven until the
e'Sfjfs'arc 1 set.\' S^rye" imrnediateljv"
;\u25a0 '\u25a0 V'St* Scramblfctl: With Torr.atoc*—
JtitQ-.a saucepan pu: a larße' 3<>oontul
of- b y I ler * ami I two s poo n f y Is " of h* lneod
uxilon*-^«tf«*rj' tUe - onion" 'to a, ••'golden
brown/ Have ready skJimetl twi> »ooJ -'
"siaed ; tomatoes • «u t In" large plevtca ; | acid
torthc'bnlonand, butter. Let. simmer
until "the 'tomatoes have 'coukct! ilo a
pulp. tJconon wjtH •- salt-: aiul cayenne
pepper, i- 'ln the '.mean timer break and
beat? Bis -fresh tggs.'^to! which ."add. half
eL'^te&spoonCui^of •selt. Scramble' the
os;<s with the tomato 'puipi and -serve
on "?»liceV:l>C'thh>>tiof- toa«t.t"/V
: up. without being pleated, and that tea
decidedly thin material; but, then.
, these are the- seeming: contradictions
i that exist in the world of fashion to
, day.
Coats in Wash Materials
Later, on, linen and wash materials
> of the more expensive Qualities will be.
i made up into garments of this descrip
tion, because it is now considered ab
solutely requisite to have coats to slip
on at any time if the weather be cool
during the -summer. There are most
exquisite material*, in the /-silk fin
ished taffeta batiste.' for instance, or
in the linens that combine well with
the fceevy laces and, embroideries, and
aJUUKSgh short, farciful little jackets
arc smart, they are no. smarter than
the long coat? that- have such an. lndi
j vltlual and . distinctive air about them.
These coats 'of wash materials do not
require to have skirts to match, any
more than -do those made of silk or
cloth. They are individual and dis
tinctive garments. Of course, while
they may have skirts made to wear
with them or gowns over which they
are worn, none the less they»are fin
ished" separate In themselves. Loose
coats and coats of all thin materials
are this year lined quite as often with
colors as with white, and a most
charming effect is gained in conse
quence.
.The pale - pink?, rose colors and
mauves again are seen as well as the
blues, and strange combinations of
, colorings are obtained by using dark
materials In these effect" over a light
lining. Curiously enough, by so doing
jtHJB color combination; Is often entirely
, different "from anything that would be
obtained if it Vere that color to begin,
with, all of which sounds involved, but
can readily be understood tf the ef
fect Is tried, by .putting, for instance,
a " fmav've chiffon over a pink lining,
or a dark blue or purple over. a pale
*blue lining//. Even- In the heavy ma
terials the colored linings are going. to
be decidedly the fat!, ami the pale rose_t
pink or yeilow'and a light tan.* or gray
. is 'certainly «"ery charming.and qultea
• relief after jlie numberless whit* lin
ings .that we have Mul for so long a
/time. With tWese garments, if intended
solely for wear. in midsummer, the lin
ing:, can be of the- thinnest sort of India
or -China silk, or some v:ie of the num 1
berless. soft silks that arc -very t*ii£-j
lonapl?. . /
While in the heavier materials soft
taffeta -is used more than satin; • lat*rl
on In the season pongee coats will be":
made ; oa j the .same models already tfe ;
scribed, and will be in all the. different;
colors, .for although the ponge« has
been'' tvorn. long -enough, to make it an-,
fashionable, none ihe lus3 It nas proved
such; an attractive material for "aum- •;
, hier V«r that it is destined to \u25a0'gain
attain pvpufartty this summer, conse
tfuently it will*: be "seen in all the.dif**
ferent ;. s'Jtuiea. -The" model wriglnalljt*
:in tended for,' a clot!: coat, made wi;*i -
alOe- plcacs. •\u25a0*s' v est)S»*?aily. rrobd'Sn whip?^
pong'oe. T/hllejthe^ longer models ;th*t;
ari" mo re e ia bora t e I;.* t ri rume-J vvi tb , laeo \
and cmbrohi^rV iiretalso very, effectived
in white- poiifc'ce. with the hfavy-cm-;
br\it?er.v or" lace. TJ:erc art- sonic ex
tfulsite *tta-j€S of reO in t!;c soft taffeta* r ;
slid pongees that have just appeared-*
cv a (J«i> \u25a0v-erise/vather .than a scarlet, *
.-\nd iheae arc most effective. in the tone-/
coats that are on the ovder;qf wraps.': <>