The San Francisco call. [volume], April 07, 1907, Page 11, Image 11

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
Wie Saxi Praaclsoo Sunday jOaU.
SILK AND CLOTH COSTUMES
THE LATEST PARIS FASHIONS.
SPRING costumes are always more
or less Interesting, and every
season they appear in some new
phase that makes them seem ab
solutely new and distinctive, even
though the materials on close inspec
tion bear a marvelous resemblance to
those we have seen for many, many
years.
It Is incredible, however, that year
cfter year and season after season, es
pecially now that there are bo many
extremes as regards clothes during the
year, it is possible to have such a va
riety of style and color, and even the
woman who baa a mania for clothes to
such an extent that she is always buy
Tasty Trimmings for the Afternoon Tea
SINCE the custom of taking after
noon tea is not only well estab
lished in the country but now in dan
ger of becoming an untimely feast, It
is astonishing to note the numerous
little dainties and extra trimmings
•which are being served to pique, and
delight the appetite. It Is no long
er merely a cup of tea and a slice
of thin bread and butter that may b»
expected between. 4 and half -past ' 5
o'clock; Jam has been added to the list,
and often hot Scotch cones and Eng
lish muffins. Besides the tea table
proper there stands usually a sort of
rack table, pyramidal in chape and
having three shelves, one .above . the
other and round like plates. Each one
is then covered with attractive, china
holding some fascinating biscuit or
cake. Jam of one or two kinds is
\u25a0snuggled In between them, and after
the hostess has ascertained which Jam
and biscuit her guest prefers she
spreads it for him herself before pass
ing it on a email plate. This little
attention appears very gracious. .
Among the biscuits those of "health
food" reputation are often found, and
the Jam is- spread over them to add
to their somewhat questionable . tasti
ness. Other hostesses have fine, email,
flat wafers -of whole wheat covered
with chocolate in their own kitchens
before serving. They are then above
reproach to pass'with tea. The bis
cuit itself . Is : digestible, the chocolate
tasty and nourishing. Biscuits cov
ered with cheese, on the - contrary,
while highly, agreeable to. taste, are
avoided by those hypercaref ul about
their diet. '
Strawberry Jim is undoubtedly . the
ing them haa now no difficulty In hav
ing each and every one of her numerous
gowns quite different from the other.
There does not appear to be any fixed
law a^s regards material or color Uhls
\u25a0year, but It is noticeable that one or
*wo materials combined in the 'same
costume are thought very smart, and
certainly the effect is attractive, for
eyen when the same color is seen the
fact that it is in a. different material
gives it a different appearance, while; If
desired, to have the different shades. of
the same color.it Is very, easy, to carry
them out oh' account of having so many
different materials used ,at the came
time.
There are, of course, any, number of
favorite for spreading on English muf
fins. Blackberry , Jam or guava Is*
chosen to spread on . the health " food
biscuits, j especially those made; of gra-;
ham or : whole- wheat. Scotch .scones
are spread only through the middle
with fresh butter.. These scones are
very similar to old fashioned soda bis
cuits, and are invariably served hot.
In size - they are I little . larger than >a ,
quarter of a dollar. The ; number that
some people can make disappear is
therefore readily countenanced.
Wafer toast finds a place at : after
noon tea. In making It the bread Is cut
as thin as possible and It Is then
toasted until/ extremely crisp. .It. 'is
eaten dry or with Jam, but it. is never
buttered. . VC&SSM
Sliced lemon; which Is preferred in
general , to' cream ? or. milk with after
noon tea; has also a: little trim-
ming this L winter. -From? two: to three
cloves ' are ' stuck In the soft of
each slice with the object of giving an
extra fla%*or.;to:the tea.- it "is desirable,,
however, to test the brand of tea with
th« cloves before serving it to friends,
as some blends of tea are affected much
more agreeably by the addition of cloves .
than others. "Again, sliced limes nre
served in tsead • of lemon • wKhdellcatte-"
ly flavored • teas. : " By,* many they , are"
liked exceedingly, -while I other* \u25a0, regard
the Innovation 1 leniently as - one of - the
season's novelties.
When' cakes appears at afternoon tea
the fashion rages for arich pound cake'
showing through it many large raiiins.
Europeans j invariably . :; refer .^to \u25a0 i it:- as
"American plum cake", and regard it as
a- specialty ;of thi«,.C6untry.vln'enter
taining foreigner*, ! therefore,' it is per
h«jF t th* most *ec*ntable amXci to offer;
smart and attractive cloth and vellins;
costumes,' arid, silk •\u25a0 ones -as well; that
are made entirely ;> of <? one 'material. ,
These have waists ; and j skirts jto | match;'
and ofteri— in,: factr ; ts almost ?always-~jj
there is a coat or -wrap also. But some
how, the charrii \of j novelty. Is ; more j ap-*,
parent in those custom es that are robde
of cloth, 'f veiling, ''lchifftm ;-•\u25a0•':^or ~" batiste r
with -1 silk coats tthe ;: same" color, V even *
In a darker or lighter shade. And these
silk' coats are most charmingly attrac*
tive In -their, rather, fanciful design and;
absolute' novelty of 'shape r arid effect, ,
as well as!cblbr,ff6"r.?,there"areya nUm-j
ber. of new shades this year that have
already^ found \u25a0\u25a0 favor,!; and although It ]
must be admitted they are somewhat
conspicuous, at the same time - they are !
effective and as a rule becoming. - "'
For the first spring wear when the
wlritef/cdstume lis * left" off I the lighter
weight ' cloth 3; and '?_ serge .costume •or
, cheviot for.2 ordinary ; wear:. comes into;
! favor.!' These first spring costumes are.
• generally ; on ? the* rather -I severe -order
with f a tailor finish, 1 * and i 6re : very I trim;',
neat arid; becomihg.tl.While • every ..worn- ;
an : who ? goes -in "for, a;' thorough outfit:
makes a point of having at least One
; tailored costume, and that) orij;the r "bld-tj
fashfoned? plairi\ order "of 'circular.; or'
. gored , skirt i and \ the shalf-flttlng,ahree-}s half-flttlng,ahree-}
quarter length coat, -\u25a0 these - gowns - are ;
'no - longer \u25a0 considered ' sriiaft' enough "for '\u25a0
; anything \ but : , ; Useful -wear, \u25a0: and k the
tailored . gown that Is the • most - pppu
lar and/ in : fact, thei most ) practicable;
Is found more \u25a0 elaborate i and trimmed i
: effectively., \wlthii velvet I .'of ? braid X and
always : wlth^- s.onie \ flriljih^of ' trimmin*;
to ;\u25a0 take ; away \u25a0 any appearance : off se-T
verity. \u25a0 The invlolble plaids or checks
/are \u25a0• still \u25a0; fashionable . for this sort t of :
gown; . but : . the strlpea g this ; yearX* are
:: considered 1 neater, \u25a0 >nd £thefe j is \u25a0?' more
variety -to %be \ found; among ;,V; ,V * :
: , There are charming gowns, : again, of
- black and dark blue with ; a hair str ipo
;'of / white, or Igray 'brjfa't hair f stripe J of
\ lighter, gray. % These 'are ; made with the
I only trimming a turned ; "down collar of
; velvet ± of i •*. contrasting I 'colors dr.* to
-': match the lighter, hair stripe, and * once
again the inside . collar and cuffs, of
I piquet are seen. They are a ] most s be- ]
I coming : fashion,^ which for - a time was
:; set ; aside. A } For f the ) woman .^wh© lives
in the \u25a0*; oountry these plainer tailored
v gowns r are". Indispensable f or , traveling
-; and going about and are always In de
raandL Th«y4are|ToertalnJys moat; L b*<°
coming, but owe their 'beauty- to the ;
cut and flt : and finish rather than t"6.the
color or' the modeL : - Like adman's"\Busi
ness f suit 1 they •\u25a0"• seem ; appropriate ; and '
have^sa^certaln^ style >> without vbelng^
possessed of any;- real i intrinslo ?.beauty.\
lor 'voile.' costumes; are; more^;
practicable so sooii as the; weather c be- •
comes.) warm, iwhen all- the .costumes *
tnade; of :even ; : the' lightest 7 cloth^ are}
seen, i 'T-^ilS .'• year . .\u25a0 there \u25a0/, is ! a.J larg*r..
variety thari;ever to, be.'found -in, thesel
materials, p and "both in coloring " and "
plain there are so many -to. choose from;
.that = there fls no ' dlfn<iulty i in \u25a0 selecting - ;
what -is "b«c6ming. 7. The; lighter color*?
are for! the i moment the more f avo rable \
and ,pal«'gfay, ; pale matiye. and all \u25a0 thei
shades I'df «: tan; and - : an odd ' shade of
white are in great demand ; • the lighter
shades ' ! are ~ t tdo } delicate ;' for ' anything "
: but- country ;or,i afternoon'wear;vihtth6
i city : they =j would ;" soon ;" become % soiled
and *be \ Very^ lugly •.f. f In V-j consequence.:
An loddt shade. of' green, an ;odd shade
of ;Dlue?and:'ah fqddrshade of ,'plnk Jn-
t coral "order- are , all 3 lmmensely pop-*
ular ;i and 1 certainly.-; very] effective." A? o
•They are trimmed with braid and silk;
baiidsri: SomStiftiesj silk • bands : arejbut- i
i lined Vwith:fancy braldi' but ;f or theimo^j
rrierit> the 'demand! is', eitherj for,' the iblas
[bands of silk or. velvet brlelse^thejlnes^
of ! htald, '• arid It -Is \u25a0 uncertaiiij how] much ;
; brald^caniberußed?bn;a(costume*6fathlsl
fiort/'^As i a ;rtile v the i skirts s are f shortA
but .while \they-\cleair 4 the ;i ground . they.
;' are « ii6t th« 'ordinary \u25a0 short V walking
skirt i that ••; some * Women affect ; for,; the
'Street:;- ;*. :-V:: -V: : '^:^ • \\ ..v; ;
The pleated dr\jtb,e,ftiU;sklrts are the
favorite model*, arid r it? la astonishing
", how * many < different ;; arrangements .of
I pleats * there % Can * be. a A^ favorite \ trlm-1
\u25a0: mlng ii \u25a0 the j bands of ; silk .around, the
I front i6t^ th« > »kirt : or f.barids :\u25a0 of > braid
|put"6n;inithe T sanielway.;?>Where this is
'\u25a0ridtibecottaingVjtfi^brJlid putTdnlln hori
sasontalilines Jii ; aiso ; used, . f orj;under, no*
|Circuiriitatj{jesUs.the:effeot"bf jlorig 1 lines
Ito jbe 7 dbri^away: wlthijA -;^ :---'-^ \ : -.-; 2~ ,' ;| '•\u25a0;;
'.XTlie •\u25a0 silk icoats ; .th&t' are/ ; to «be ,wofn
fwlth I these 5 gowns ~ : arb erttlrely^diff efent ,
;frdrt*anytliiiiß:»tKatvhaßSbe-6n"--.fashibDi~
\u25a0abl4*fof:a;very^lofig^tlme;f -.They^ar*
"lridescribSfbly. : smart;and;wouldiseem'to'
jib* JcKbsen I with ± reference r to j the] Indi
vidual wearer rafher than to\the fgreat
% majority."^ they i ari f short; i but '; extend
' below/ th* j Jiralst • line and \ have nothing
|of,th* t»olelii;of >ton! model; aboutlthemr
A- look of some old-tlm* , f a»h ion I ! is no
>\u25a0 - *\u25a0\u25a0' \u25a0\u25a0•\u25a0 v -... : -
tlceable -In some of these coats; they .
< outline the 4 flgure" and seem : at the first
glance .to .be made in rather too* scant -
ah;allowance of material.
iOn --the i other : hand,~ orice * aga ln is to
be seen a style that was so fashionable ?
some-three or fbur~ years ago, that had I
a fitted yoke across the. shoulders and
? the body; pleated,'; a -style* that -is \u25a0espe-'
{dally i fashionable ;:rnadef; in .taffetai or i
j pongee; * but the neatest of Jackets ' and 7
the smartest are the queer shaped ones,
itflmmed , with harrdw, braid and pipings
of satin or harrdw/blAck ,y6lVet ribbon -
\u25a0 put on around the ' fronts of in lines oorn r
" the back.' V" In (the "description , these
"Jackets do"-* not ' sound ?as I though *, they -
(.•would Ibe becoming; in j reality"* though,
i they, are bedbriilhg,' arid to almost every \u25a0
- figure, j for J worn 1 by '.the ywoman -.
X th4y % seem] to '•\u25a0\u25a0 rather hide I the * figure. :j
', -whereas -wOrhby '.a slender woman, they:*,
.; can 5: be s shaped ; In around the 'sleeves ;=
,i arid , so iiridicate/ and, ; Indeed, " define; any ,
isleriaefn«BSi sleriaefn«BS of outline. ; It. ls notieeablo «
: that valmost^ all ; of Jackets j are i
7 collarless,. intending to .show -the collar,!
; of; the; waist' worn i underneath dr. io\ be ;
* WOrli wi th a full , riiche.\' This . is always ?
jib«c6mlrig; ;_and
is } t ashloriahld \ again ' to jVear i the I soft ;
, lace collars • and \ties, • for lace ! against }
;;the= throat -And'; around itlie;heckis r al£r
-ways £t*.f pidtttii ''\u25a0-\u25a0• and more -j becoming \u25a0\u25a0
. than when \u25a0 the; fcollar/comes ,'cl6sd",to [the •
j face, : : - 'and V -Ii« 1- hiade - usually pt : some ,
<, rather i hard v rriaterlaiA for ; no : matter ,<ol \u25a0
:iwhat;c6lorithe7silk-may'b6,ithelsllk:U s
I a r hard J triatef ial: ml itself j aiid | really I H-^,
vquires'the softening Of net^'lace 6t chif--
Ifon'td t»6 beeobilng:'-^ i; '\u25a0 f"V- : ;
r.T:'j Black; Veiling! is (a' material that may
? be -extremeiy/tiglyy A The" plain;-, ordihaf y.',
veiling \u25a0 is|hafsh-and'rinylelding, r -ahd?is;s
f, in? f act, i rathfer t like £ the * old-fashlphed I
i grenadine Tor baseg*-;^as iit was \u25a0 calltfd : in :
'•;. olden \u25a0* tlnies/j and vwlry^fand .» hard.V"* Bdt*
• there ; if c many id iff c" rent r vei ling's, some '
£ sof t . •in T finish ; and * Soino vrl th "a \ faint [dejg
*slgrt'through\the-hir{6thers hav^la"' satin
" finish^ , v and these ) are I charmihgiy I made
\ up'iWlth ;fsßf t '>: finished \taffetas 1 orawlth,;
; sating'; The /skirt ;.is; trimmed itm6re\ori
'4 less reiabbrately ; withithe « fillkl or '„ satin ]
?add • theljacketimide 1 entlrelyXof ilt.V,T6 ']
"keep j-up^the in r so j far* that \ the*
% coat iwilljnot > look; like ! a; separate
ment there ; should be ; some of the, yell
% ing I in sthef Jacket] itself ]ml the I sleeves. \u25a0
i if |so'desired;lb-dt«"|ikfter^all,|the; Jackets'
j| that^have the'r sleeves ' so 4 made; that i they J
£ seem" to j be ; slnipl v ' ow* iv« ; th*' «K**i>
aers that extend to the elbows, and are
short, with veiling beneath, are by far
th« smartest and most effective. These
ara finished with the narrow pleating
of taffeta or the queer little ruchings,
or even broad ruchlngSi and it should
be ; observed that the ruchings are far
softer than the braid. Often these jack
ets look almost like fichus with sleeves,
for^ they 'have 'so many folds and are
crossed in just tho same way nt the
front and back and are then, finished
with queer square, tablike tails that are
trimmed' with ruching also."
;£The, fancy; blocks and buttons find
place again on oven these short Jackets,
while the most elaborate of ornaments
and frogs and tails and' cords arc used
as a finish and make effective trim
mings. \u25a0
Black and white veilings are. trim
med with black and have black Jackets.
In these are seen again the black and
white checks, but . more often this year
are 'the stripes. The same idea is car
ried? out In silk with the check or
striped skirt and the plain jacket
Famous Curry Receipts for Home Cooking
fZEW of the people who like and ap-
I preclate the many dishes in which
Indian curry powder enters as an In
gredient ever know, the flavor of really
good, curry., and -this, without the
slightest reflection upon the skill of the
cook. Most, ir not all, of the prepared
curry powder : on- the market Is poor
stuff, ii.'l strongly recommend the house
wlfewho cares for this appetizing, dish
ia have her own powder, prepared. Any
good: druggist will put It up for you
from the . recipe given .; below, a recipe
brought ffom India over fifty years ago
by ' an \u25a0 epicure who had : resided in the
East 'long '"enough %to attain r a dis
criminating taste : in regard •to this its
most ifamous \ dish. . The quantity, here
given ; is large, and unless the dish ap
pears of ten. on Itheltable the recipe' had
better :b<S cut. ln. half. ]Z Put* thefpowder
In a : large -mouthed- bottle and cork
tightly, jltlwill, keep without losing its
strength J for _ many months. ; .",
:'}Curry Pdw'dif.-^Half fa pound of pale
tumeric.: 4;o2.curomiri_seed. i?:oz. cori
arider ' seed, : * 4 - oz. , powdered ginger; * 1
oz. caraway^seed, U'oz. cardamom,. 4
oi:/ black .'pepper, I . oz. cayenne, all
I finely ;" powdered -and well mixed. •
'. i The' first -recipe .* that , I - : give Is \u25a0 for
dhl6ken' curry. It] Is taken from an old
fashioned '. cook \u25a0.'. book,', written In 'the
pale, i faded i hand \u25a0 oo s an genera
tion, a cook-book ;in r which' a spavin
cure : rubs i shoulders v with a recipe for
syllabub,"'and; a; remedy ?\u25a0 for chicken
cholera 'or -lockjaw I lies r jjheek" by Jowl
iwlth i directions " for.j preparing a most
; delicious { gumbo.*: \u25a0 I have . never . tried
' the. spavin ciife or, the lockjaw; remedy,
but ; I can ; answer -fdr the gumbos,' the
: syllabubs j and"" the i curries- of this dear
: lady,'« t whb \u25a0 injner > smaii circle .was fa
imous I for,' her •\u25a0 cbokirig ' in .- a," day when
'women prided thehiselves on their abil-
Mty.toj prepare [dainty dishes. \u25a0'
;\u25a0 Chicken Cufry.^-Dlsjolnt a tender
\ he"ri ; as > tofH rledlchlcken; : put in a fry
pan a" generous "'kitcheriv spoonful of
\u25a0 butter,^ a ..ithtnvslice' of breakfast bacon
\u25a0 andfa. large ; onion, sliced." Fry, until
jbothYchicken-and onlon^are a' delicate
; brown.^"kTurri J irito^ a ' saucepan • and add
\ sufficient 'water £to ':, cover -"the ; chicken
; well.-. -1 Simmer.' slbwlyi-addjng.water,* if
; necessary^uritilj the chicken *> is [almost
tender enough , to leave the bones. Some
*Jj»e t*rr>r» thlaslaca •\u25a0* r^a. ai\*d add
rlafn eolort. that Is; never plain in de
sign, for & plain black silk Jacket is at
the present moment something quit*
unknown to fashion. The black and
white striped silks In taffeta or India
are going to be Immensely smart this
year, and the clever dressmakers have
learned how to arrange the lines so as
to make a stout figure look slender.
whli»i the black coat is immensely be
coming, and an there 13 only one fash
lon to be followed, this sam« Jacket can
be made suitable for any style of fig
ure. Altogether -It would seem as
though a silk jacket would. be very
necessary to the appearance of almost
every woman thi3 year, and' although
it cannot be said with any truth that
the slik Jacket Itself Is possessed with
much warmth, it is lined with satin
and is quite warm enough for the sort
of wrap that such a Jacket Is Intended
for.
Thin veiling or silk gowns are not
appropriate or comfortable in cool
weather, but they are used in warm
weather and are Jntendad for that only.
two slices of lemon. "When, the chicken
Is done add a cupful of rich cream and
a heaping tablespoonful of curry pow
der which has been wet with the cream
and rubbed free from lumps.' Be sure
the chicken la boiling when the curry
Is put in and allow It to cook for ten
minutes. Salt to taste and thicken with
flour to the consistency of a good,
gravy. Serve with well-boiled dry
rice.
Curry Oysters. — Let one quart of
oysters come to a boll, strain out the
oysters and keep the liquor warm. Fry
two teaspoonfuls of minced onion In
an ounce of butter until the onion la
golden brown, rub two dessert spoon
fuls of curry powder, stir well and turn
In the oysters, which should only, be al
lowed to cook one minute. Add the
oyster liquor and let boil up once.
Quickly skim out the oysters into a
warm dish and thicken your sauce with
a. little cornstarch. Pour. the hot mix
ture, over the yolks of two well-beaten
eggs, to which _ have been' added two
tablespbonfuls of rich cream. Return
to the. fire an instant— not too long, or
It .will curdl'e~-salt to taste and squeeze
In four or five drops of lemon juice.
Pour over the oysters, serve at onca
with. boiled rice.
Curry and Brains. — Half cupful of
rice boiled tender. Put In the bottom
of a baking dish to the depth .6.1 an
inch. Spread two sets of boiled minced
brains over the rice. Melt butter the
size qf. an egg and rub Into it two tea
spoonfuls of curry powder "and half a
pint o£ milk. Remove from the fire
and . mix In . throe well-beaten . eggs.
Pour this mixture over the , rice and
brains: puncture with" a fork so thai
the liquid will penetrate the* rice; : aa«!
place in thf oven to brown.
V Curry Balls.— For., mock "turtle soup
,ve~al or poultry fricasaeo.or any mad<
dl3h:' ilash the yolks of two ;hard
boiled eggs and mix with a heaping
• tablespoonfhl of good, batter, seasor
"with curry powder and . a \u25a0 little salt
Add : as much bread crumbs as ' may b«
required to ;make It to a proper con
"sjstency.v Wet your hands with ebl(
water - and " roll tne paste Into " smal
balls, 'drop, them 'into the -'sauce o;
soup aid allow to boil. When the ball:
.rise to the 'top of the '< pot* they ari
ready to serve and will be found ll gh