The San Francisco call. [volume], April 21, 1907, Page 14, Image 14

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
EMBROIDERED GOWNS
THE LATEST PARIS FASHIONS
St'tflCfO bonnets and spring gowrte
are as requisite to feminine wel
fare as meat and drink, and long
before the winter is over dress
makers and milliners are busy in
preparation for the numberless orders
they will have' to execute later. Es
pecially strenuous is the excitement
ever spring gowns when . spring comes
early, as is the case this year, for with
caster and the following weddings there
seems to be a necessity for new clothes
and the. old ones appear to be far more
shabby and out of date than they are,
or will be in another six weeks.
Bmart street gowns are the first In
order and the more practical rather
than the elaborate models are chosen,
as these < same street gowns must be
of the practical description to be worn
tn the street In the evening or for
some trip out of town there are also
the more elaborate styles smart enough
to fee worn at the church wedding, if
cc t at the reception, or to some in
formal afternoon entertainment.
The absolutely plain tailor costume
built on ! regulation severe lines is no
longer universally popular, "although
•very well gowned woman insists upon
having two or three in her wardrobe,
but the tendency is to la some way
nodlfy or soften the severe lines so as
to give a more feminine touch. Just as
tn the smart riding habit, where .cer
tain conventional lines are followed,
these new tailor models are alike, but
there can be trimming Introduced or col
lar and cuSs may show some elabora
tion that could not be permitted in the
riding habit. There are many occasions
where the absolutely tailor gown is
•sseatlal without even the relief of
trimming. It is contended by conserva
tive taste, and now. the tailors who
turn otxt women's gowns have Just aa
many samples of cheviot, serge and
cloth from which their customers are
expected to make their choice as have
Che tailors who make only men's
clothes. In - fact, often the same sam
.ples of material are shown, although
as a rule those chosen for men's . wear
are heavier in weight. There are this
season the* customary indefinite checks,
plaids and 'stripes," but in the latter
there is the greatest choice. The, dark
and light colors also with the half line
of white or of a darker or lighter shade
of coior are extremely smart, and there*
Is a great variety in the coloring to
choose from. Then a; curious pattern
li" to be noticed in the stripes, all in
the one color, , but so * arranged as -to
give the effect of two • hades on ac
count cf the weave of the material be
ing almost as though on the biaa In
blue aaA fclack this is especially notioe
«We. %
Most astonishing is the great variety
that can be gained In using stripes.- and
tbe material rarely needs much trim
ming, but at . the moment there Is a
great demand for elaboration of all
kinds, so on the coats and Jackets there
la a lot of braiding, fancy braids, nar
row soutache and hercules, all
being considered in fashion, and open
work braid lined with a contrasting
color ts considered 'smart and is oer
tainly extremely novel. Green and blue
stripes are eoore x fashionable 'than the
checks and pialds of last year,' and the
black or dark blue braid lined with
green is quite different from asythlajT
tt>*t has been seen for a lonjr tira*.
T>or the moment the short jacket has
quite superseded the long coat,' and
these same short Jackets are most
fanciful little affairs, smart and becom
ing to almost every one, for a clever
tailor can easily shorten or lengthen
them so- as to conceal ugly lines and
accentuate graceful ones. ' The most
popular, not necessarily the smartest,
model Is tight fitting, only long enough
to reach to the waist line and with
three-quarter length sleeves. A narrow
line of fancy waistcoat buttons and
either braid or folds of the material
comprise the trimming. .The waist
coat plays rather an Important part In
the costume; it is braided or embroid
ered, of ; another material, and either
lighter or darker In color, and certain
ly adds Immensely to the more elabor
ate effect . without taking away alto
gether the severe tailor-made appear
ance. Medium length sleeves - are the
rule, not long coat sleeves,! but. long
enough to almost reach- to the waist.
WOMEN OF MSHION ARE DOOMED ! m?ms^^mtm£ ./SEWS
THE feminine figure' Is undoubt
edly undergoing' a decided
change this spring. The /deter
mined hands of Dame Fash
ion are molding it into a shape ' radi
cally different from that which baa con
stituted the correct as well as the di
vine form of woman. There have been
innumerable efforts to effect this
change in former seasons and undoubt
edly some Inroads have heretofore been
made on the straight front, full-walst
ed Idea) of the past, but still the mass
of women have clung tenaciously to the
comfortable style .which allowed them
breathing space and sufficient . belt line,
and only" commanded that • the straight
line of the . front be preserved • by « a
correct \u25a0 carriage Tand properly ' made
stays. This season, however, modistes
and oorset makers have decided that
this will not do any longer. Women are
going to be practically forced to lace
themselves into wasp-waisted # stays
whether their good sense revolts or not.
"How do they do -itT" :af customer
asked the ' clerk at ; : one! busy - oorset
counter in a New York shop
The Tortured Fat Womiari
The customer.: pointed to \ a showcase
filled with beautiful model figures, with
the large shoulders of an athlete, the
full . hips of a • thoroughly developed
woman and a waist which would have
been unreasonably small for the wisp
iest and wasplest of invalids. don't
see,"* said :^. the customer, i* "how Cthe
women are going to bring themselves i to
that sort of thing." "Oh, \ it's Uhe, cor
sets, - it's all In the ". shape , of the cor
sets," explained the clerk. you \ get
a corset on the right lines . It produces
the effect of \u25a0 a' ; small waist : and large
bust' and hips, and of course the effect
is all a-, matter of /proportion. VA *\u25a0 very.
large woman In . the new shaped'cor
sets has a waist that seems much
smaller than it is, . because the differ
ence . between the -hips and bust: and
the waist Js accentuated so that the
.waist \u25a0eenisTsmall.'tßfflggggraKg^Bral
"But how about the woman who Is
naturally medium'; sited as to waist and
bust and- hips V aaked the customer.
"Some women have not waists small in
proportion to their hips and shoulders."
The clerk / shrugged • her shoulders.
For • the stout woman r she . had sym
pathy. With a new style corset the
stout * woman ;: oould 'be made ." into ; " a
large slsed y replica of the fashionable
figure, : even iif she did V grow ; in lumps,
even : if . h«r face ', did " take on an apo
plectic purple and her eyes bulge, v The
clerk knew : perfectly well " that - there
are fearful' days 'before the stout
woman-^days ; when she - will : .; hurry
hnnu maiA, - ebrUkJna; - loudly " tar :/ h«r.
The favorite shape Is a modified puff,
much larger'above the elbow: than be
low, "but* even-rbelowj:' the -elbow, not
tight-fitting, while the turned back cuff
is. a more fashionable* finish than the
plain straight band.
\u25a0\u25a0> Skirts are decidedly ' complex and not
to be rashly undertaken by the ama
maid,' will . fall In: a stiff, helpless heap
An the nearest i chair. :<. \u25a0 " " -. .'" : ~- • .
: There : will 1 be 'days' when- the; maid
won't ;. ever i dare [to i wait •to -.\u25a0 unfasten
the corset In ; the"' usuai = - way, ; but' ; will,
at - her \u25a0mistress', own V. commands, rip
her up the back. So peculiarly appro
priate docs that classic phrase seera
to the; uncorseting of fat women under
these strenuous . circumstances \u25a0 that one
ventures ~ : to trace ;-.» its ; origin >- to : ' the
unique ; ceremony. At least it seems
&: topic f or '• debate. '> : - \u25a0'- -:;\u25a0'•'.'' \u25a0•;.'\u25a0' '
One , of the characteristic noises jf
the * summer v will ':\u25a0\u25a0' probably '.be that
which accompanies tho Iweloonie j.uncor»
seting : of the stout » woman^who :is 'en
deavoring to obtain the . hour, glass .fig
ure. • : How . theyj will > burst-^— burst with
loud, explosive noises 'from -the dis
tressing bonds i of whalebone and ; steel:
And: the bursting sound will be ao^
corapanled by ; a ) long,: Io w sJ gh of J re
lief, while the riven corset ' strings will
fall In-; ar shower - of . a : hundred ? pieces
to -. the expressive musio of the - burst
ing and the sigh. • " ./- ..;..-.. ";,;:~'^/Xx'X+
This is , the season of ; (Dourse wnen
Soups fMd^^
A_RB . you ') a lover of : that ?. classf ,of
soups which might be called f with
perfect propriety j. porridges, > since
:.? . they \u25a0 are* so (thick .and "soi substan-'
tial as almost to form a meal ln^them
selvesT Many \u25a0of - these soups cannot
'be made except in summer, .when fresh
vegetables abound, and the most deli
cious of the list demands ; tender green:
cor"n_ for,its preparation.^ I-' have :; never.
: eaten \u25a0• this soup save . at . one tabled- and
ofall\of itsfklndfllthlnkfitithelmost
delicious. If it becomes vas J popular
with you: as ; ln' : the] household 1 wheref l
' encountered /It you will discover that
the dinner which: follows it need.be but
a light and, simple affalrAv:^: \u25a0:-.:;; r
Corn and Tomato! Soup — Put the . soup i
bone in cold weter and allow it to sim
mer for a time, carefully removing the
scum which rises to the \u25a0 surf aoe. About
! four ; hour* before ; dinner iturn . Into 'the
' soup rpo t a pint and I a'; half . of canned .
tomatoes,: or, about ' six" good sized ; fresh \u25a0
ones ?x which S^ have W beeh^preyiously •
skinned and cut into • large pieces.- Take
nine *j ears • of :•- tender green corn and >
! with **a: sharp' kni f c >ut | It' from; the [cob.^
The v merit hof S this § soap '„', will v depend
: largely; on : the \u25a0 manner; i n which ' this] Is '
done. Take off, In;your,. first \u25a0 slice mere
ly the ; tops of the i kernels, cut . a little
, deeper >- the ;f second % time, ,i and ;\u25a0 finally .
scrape | the I cob '- well \u25a0 with .' the blade of
the knife; jinjthls : way? thel milk sis I re
leased from I the" jfy egetabl e,'^whlch t« is :
necessary to the perfect \ flavor of. the
souo. : - '. Do ,'• not . m*Jc«>: £h.« mistake of !
Isjidilifciu sffffTi iii ishi Tii'T'irwii ii*wrriiwsTrswnmsjsjsjßnMnCiiffiiiii>iiiii tppiwi) JP*hi iM mi \u25a0&
tear, for the ' striped materials j present
even more: difficulties than the plain.
They must be full and must hang welL
Pleats, olds pleats and box pleats 'are
still v In' --'favor, but arranged In Quite
different effects from the skirts of last
year,, excepting -that they are Just a*
wide 'and . full around the foot; In fact.
the -wispy . woman'; whom nature t en-"
dows -with /. a wasp waist have
her: \u25a0 Innings. , ;• But ; r. then X she, . ,too, ;
will : have, her .troubles, v ; f or even r
the i 'Slenderest, although ' y the waist "
may - : suit in - jClrcumference,V<" j ; will ;
find ; the. proportions"- of -her. .figure Vail j.
out of fashion.iand while her! fat sister
ties- herself to the ' bed i post \ and ; go^s I
through her, morning. torture of girding
herself \ the thin: woman Twill « find Hi
necessary, if ; she \u25a0'. wishes '< to 1 have j? the :
full benefit ' of her ; thin'. waist >to';rouh«l \u25a0
her ngure up ; by j artificial means .both
above and below the waistjline.' \u25a0; Other-
she will: appear..' too/ straight up;
and ~ down. Yet-l the I\womati1 \womati 'has
undoubtedly j the advantage. ;-; She/- at .
least,, has ; no : need 'to > grow apoplectic \u25a0'
and purple. V'"'-'^^ '-•'\u25a0 '* l^ : .".»\u25a0\u25a0-. '.~ vv^'-''-;.
T* It ' Is • the ; medium-sized ; woman \who
hasn't a , small- waist : and \ who A doesn'^ :
want ' r \ a , small » waist Jwhom • the oorset :
clerk / refused > to • understand. • - \u25a0'. For ,j she j
has ; no \ sympathy. Cf A fat v woman i who !
does her> best, .who I wears t the ; most ex-^«i
pensive corsets and molds i her .figure
according to fashion's decree ; is . felt \ to .
gratlng^the corn;" it^^ does; not? give: the
desired effect.'; Turn 'the into-the
soup i pots fifteen ' minutes : before 1 , serv
ing, and'allowlt^to^bolllhard,; then add
two j cupfuls ! of s milk 'onlyl lonic ; enoush
before taking off to permit of its ; heat
ing^welL-- :; \u25a0 \u25a0...*;'; V- ;;!«.\u25a0\u25a0 : ] \u25a0V-""'',-'''.'": ,'' : ;<>|
Delicious Vegetable '; Soup-^On« .'quart
of tomatoeß,- peeled and chopped fine;
two? tablespoonfuls »cf half
head 'of '•'\u25a0\u25a0 small or one \tuarter head £of
large cab ba ge,t cut "svery; fine ; I two ' • large
onions/cut '"very .3 fine/ two .turnips '; and
\u25a0 two); carrots,"? also^ chopped:. fine;; one
eighth of a pound of pickled ; pork.-\Put
the tomatoes and butter in a large fry
pan V; and z cook \i gently ¥ for- about ten
minutes; then add cabbage, onions, ; tur
nips, and carrots, and cook until the
vegetables begins to?softeß.l^.Tun»Hinto
a' soup; pot 'and add about !«lx Quarts of
, water,- and Hhe^ pickled 3 porkJ?iL*tK the
soup^boilfflve v or*sixjhouwi.KA <l(l i on *
pint ;ofj fresh milk-before serving. " , ;
Tot |Makingibnionc Boup~
Slice! three * large -onions ? and sfry •; to ; a
good |brown~be^f oaref ul a not >l to '^burn
thera~ln T two tablespoonfuls s of ibutter.
Rub' iii a] heapin el tablespoonful^of I sif t^
ed J flour; and'; add? twoi quarts * of Jbolling
water^ Allow;; this? to? cook • for? a ', half - :
hour 4 or} so; ? strain'^ ieason j and . throw
in ': a ; handful l'of |f rled : croutons. ; 1 Serve ;
with" gratedt Parmesan', obeese. This lis
the French: fashion of making this soup;
and % you y may make oholoe ! between %it
ahdlthelqneCglvenlbelow, \u25a0 which^is a
little frhore> elaborate. , '
' S Put % the i soiipbone 'In several,' quarts
ofKWaterrand^all6wlltlto'boll>nUlia
the width of the modern ;>kirt:ta,:'an
exaggeration.: . ','\u25a0
.;,.;A^moro . straight ,up and down ap
pearance > is ; ; to \u25a0 be noticed In - skirts,
and at \ the -. same time they.; are ' not
allowed "to ,. hang f orward <nor .=\u25a0 to drop
at- the!baclcS; To* be -really 'smart-they
must s be the same ' length : all : ' around
be doing her duty by society as far -as
lies ** within ?i- her .' means-^-p00r. ,«; lumpy
creature. ;: A - thin '.woman : who -."wears
artificial .plumpers to I fill : but the I out
line of a perfect dressmaker's model
she, ?. tbo,'f is admitted "i to have \ a 3 figure.
But the medium-sized .woman with the
.larffeUwaist-rTShejls '; beyond "the pale:
she receives no sympathy from the girl
behind;; the counter. >, The dressmaker,
too^lookspatJber with? disfavor. >Bhe
is stonily recommended to the mercies
of ,the ] corset "waist, : a'; fearful " conf cc-"
tlon, usually lacking in -all lines of
grace"/ which : : belong • to i the! free i body
and : equally, devoid of the chlo -rigidity
of : the, true 'corset.. ; ; :. ';/ \u25a0\u25a0>/\u25a0': \
\u25a0 There .is \ no doubt about it. woman Is
going to . have all kinds of trouble .with
her stays j again. Somehow, when her
awful future in \ this direction stares - her
I n the face, when she realises that, her
largo : walsted, full-bodied, straight
front' corset \ls . to '-. be v taken -, from % her
and \ that J she V is .' to .b e I clamped in to a,
bony, harness which will ; not ' only, com
press ;: her waist * but f. flatten ' her / ribs,
shorten , her : breath, make her, nose red.
good > meat stock iis * prepared. About
an , hour ? before dinner . separate the
stock | into^ two $ portions.! ,• Fry w three
\u25a0 large (onions j to /a"^ good ; : brown 5 ln^ two
tablespoonfulsof butter and 801 l three
large ) potatoes until : thoroughly .'done.
Rub : a heaping ; kltchenapoonful of
sifted • flour into ; the onions i and \u25a0 butter
and Z pour , In j one-half the .; meat \u25a0•. stock.
Mash | the :\u25a0 potatoes 'while H hot, adding
tog them a the f other half £of '?, the C meat
stock. Turn both' potatoes 'and onlona
; back v Into 'i the 2so up pot and ). oook | for
about a half -hour. - Strain, season and
1 serve with k fried croutons. This ; soup
can' be ; made without i stock, if desired.'
using .water and! milk ; In - place of the
'BtOCk/.iv r ';^'V4 :i -W* VVi;.* v'-'^'-y^ni'v/ • ' :V , vv '
\u25a0 ?.Fre*sh Mushroom V-'i Soup-~Put "-• one
quart, half L milk ' and * half ' cream, in { a
double, boiler; when near boiling point
add thiokenlng of two tablespoonfuls of
flour and . butt er well m ixed. Have one
pound of fresh 1 mushrooms prepared and
chopped. Put these in the oream with
one teaspoonf ul of v finely chopped • par
sley.'; BollH twenty \ minutes, v Just be
fore « serving f add "% & "i. tablespbonf ul of
sherry ;'C?SeryeJln^boulllon^cupß. r ;; i . .- .
K^,To mato ISo up^fOnef quart can *o f * to
matoes.: one ' onion ~ f cu t up, clx h cloven,
oneTquartVof 'water.'-ilJet . all^stew ' to-,
gether,' for }, half/; an ! * hour^;, then strain
through a ; sieve \ and > return to : the' ket
tle. Add ,1 two " tablespoonfuls \ of \u25a0 corn,
one of butter; pepper and salt to taste.
MdlstenYttwOjt'tablespooof uls Vof
starch'oiy floor; and when tomato liquor
is f boiling^ pour.J in t' gradually, ;•; stirring
alltth«ttim«.^BoiHunt!lsimooth J ;v \v >
- - -. • - \u25a0• .- \u25a0 -
and clear the ground thoroughly. Thtt «
If^they be short '.When -long they are -
Just a* trlflo longer at the back, but
fall on the ground both In front and at
' tho sides. - '.\u25a0;: ' '\u25a0.\u25a0/- : - ~ ''" '\u25a0.\u25a0 .'.-','
I Long ; skirts - ' ' are ' d ecldedly lncon
gruous with' : the real tailor-made use
ful gowns, but ; nevertheless ; someiex
tremely smart gowns of this order ar*
made with the long skirts. -It ts a mis
take to think It possible to alter these
long skirts Into short ones, and to buy
a*, model gown that Is long because It
Is a \u25a0 bargain will as a rule lead to
much vexation > of . spirit, for there are
very few , long skirts that can- be ' cut
; off without losing all their.lndividual
ity and charm and being made to hang
badly. In consequence, the lines, of the
short skirt are quite different, and It
'la far' more practical to start with that
model than to "attempt to change it.
Many seams and gores are to be no
l tlced, these so arranged as to give lons
{ lines - again,' and, ' with the fashion ,, of
her eyes bulging; her temper a ruin.' her
social ' life a torture and . leave her at
ease only when It may be abandoned in
the sanctity of her own chamber
somehow, when these myriad ills which
follow. In the wake of, the small-walsted
corset r. appear to the • " vision iof her
Imagination, and she recognises them
for future i facts, all else - relating to
woman's sphere — aye.", suffrage itself—
sinks into insignificance. We will never
know : free : femininity \u25a0. until the ; corset
has had its day. ,* - \ •• \u25a0:.'',/. .'•'\u25a0
vfi But ,- this /much : may v be ' * said ,' of - the
modern woman.' v She • will - not * submit '
lightly to the wasp waJst- She has be
come ; used \u25a0 to - ; her . years of ' exemption.
A whole generation of women .'/has'
grown from girlhood .with waists . prao-*.
tically \un trammeled. V The corset • for
four or five years h*s been In good so
ciety little more than : a support.' ; Lao
ing: has' been * practically unknown. It
will ?be a long \ time * before worn en go
back to the universal slavery to the
; small waist which ~? existed *in Corner
'days.7;" : L->: ~r-' : .?*~'.\ : \ '. ;.::'•?"; *;-'/^ ;\u25a0 '\u25a0--\u25a0\u25a0* \u25a0-•'*.
> Then, too, th«»e is the ' athletio girl
to *be i reckoned with. .It is c more • and ;
more -the j habit of young women rto do
all sorts of things which were formerly
reserved ', for i men. ; The; over 'strenuous
girl athlete Is ' no longer regarded jas
! the '• safest Y model ' for girlhood,i rlhood, bat • all
girls nowadays take part ;In outdoor,
•ports from .their earliest' years. Full
chested women, women ; with, "swell:^en
veloped lungs and shoulders, whose ribs'
stand \u25a0 out Just above 1 the waist ; line ; in
uncompromising > c determination, are
hardly good material '- for >~ the .. wasp
waist ; style • of \u25a0 feminine .beauty.. These '
are .what: fashion .will have to deal with '
In ': her | attempt to ' make the - big '-• girl
of today over Into her' slender grand
mother, of half a century ago.
I^ccdin^thc Front
.The 7 new ..: corsets /are .-! high - busted,
high t under: the arm., fi*t over the ribs,
rounded and small at the .waist, rounded,
over; the hips. For women at ; all high .
busted i a new*. model is shown, 'with aa •!
extension ' of the ; material well up over '
the .bust. The s corset [ proper stops at
the bust ; line, a ruffle of ; lace ou tllnln g
the top. Above this i the " material . ex
tends to a stitched but not boned waist,
which I;'goes1 ;' goes over,*; the ; shoulders. .The
corset, in fact, is . a ' low necked. 1 ; tight
flttln g ' waist, with"; the ; lower, part ~eor- >
se ted. r* These* corsets \ lace in front • and
have a .flap buttoning : over the laces.
:_ : \ For ; young girls whose .figures .'are f
very slight, and for .whom a wasp waist
is ' not thought ; necessary, there are
charming ribbon which .--; have
lace insertion ) between the*. rows of ' rib
bon. , . Another : ribbon . corset .was made \u25a0
in basketwork style, this being fas
tern? d under ! the ; arms .with two \u25a0 rubber ;
bands and over 1 the . shoulders ila the
same 'I fashion. . There were , lines down
the front \u25a0 and back and at the sides
where , the rub be rs were fastened.
the stripe* to blast effect, the long lixtm
are absolutely necessary to make th«
skirt . becoming. It might . be - thought
too . many gores would cut the figure,
but on the contrary they seem to make
.the wearer look' more slender. than does
any other style, and even the bias
I folds around the foot of the skirt con
cot injure them.. These folds are not
nearly so fashionable as they were six
weeks ago, for they have a most dis
agreeable tendency to . make the skirt
heavy ', and cause it to drag— that Is.
if material of any weight is used.
A lightweight doth, serge or Cheviot
walking gown is. as has been said*
.almost a necessity for spring and aa
. tumn; and yet in the spring there is
I not a long season in which to wear so
warm a gown, and a voile or silk gowa
becomes far more comfortable. Voiles.
grenadines and.chlSon cloth then come
into use, and most useful they are for
many weeks. ' The same models can
be used for the voile as for cloth, and
the smart little Jackets and attractive,
well hung 'skirts show to even greater
advantage In the lighter fabrics.
Stripes again are fashionable, but there
are \u25a0 fascinating- Invisible . plaids and
check in shepherd's plaid design ts to
design. Both light and dark colors are
la style, and even the black and white
check in shepherd's plaid design is to
once more take a new lease of life.
' The plain collar and cuffs of black
silk, with the Inside fiat piece of
pique, make x a most attractive finish
to the; Jacket, while the dainty frills
of the shirt waist that show between
the edges of the waistcoat, soften any
too masculine finish of the tailor-made
style of. dress. Flounce* and frill j aro
not In keeping with any j tailor-made
fashion, but the flat bands or braid of
a silk material to match the gown are
always permissible.
'Plain ski rti with much trima*!
coats ar* considered extrern sly smart
this spring, and .are made in many
different colors and fabrics. The light
'.weights : of - doth ; and serge la solid
color' are the \u25a0 most generally used for
thisc style., and' both dark and light
. colors -are in ; demand. . Thera -Is al-
. ways .a demand <. for ; white : and blue
gowns, •fs this order. \u25a0\u25a0 and strange as
*it "• may > seem when : . It is . remembered
\ how long : the '- fashion . has .. been popu
,'lar,' the white and: the blue serge cos
tume . has not lost • it* hold on popular
fancy. : A most charming vows of
white i serge '• has .aa 1 absolutely plata
skirt, \u25a0 bat , so : perfectly ?ts ' if; otxt and
i does ' it hang that ] it \u25a0 challenges atten
tlon and admiration at a glance. The
Jacket has a loose 1 back— indeed is loose
; fitting back , and ' f ron t— and yet It Is
shaped to indicate the lines of the fig
; ure t and is \la \u25a0 the \u25a0- sack ; ; coat order.
Quite short, it yet hides the waist line
and ts slashed at the . side seams. It
I» trimmed elaborately with braid of
the same color, unless a dark color like
a dark blue be chosen' for the gowa, m
which . case the braiding can ba ta
black. This model.- however, looks best
made up In white or some light or
\u25a0. bright shade. ..The ; new * reds . are at
tractive, but • the grays : and different
tones i of whit* ara ta» most fashioa
able of all. This model' was original!?
made up in cloth, but has boon copied,
both :ta 'silk- and Itaoar; and has been
Immensely succeasral la both. . It v
'capital in linen, for, •* : much braiding
: and \ lace Insertion , caa ; be employed to
make ttj more eft ec ti ve — and expensive.
Adapting i the models '« to the different
materials ISian : art In itself, but for
tunately not an art that, requires mocH
instruction \ to i become proficient in. for
It ;does; not! require- great genius to
decide when linen, voile, pongee or
silk can . be utilized Instead ' of f cloth.
In the: more' severe fashions described
t the ' heavier, i warmer fabrics : are the
more often employed, but in tho aor»
elaborate • fashions the other • materials •
. are often infinitely, better and . turn out
more ; satisfactory costumes taaa tha
; original models.
Braiding is used on all material^, so
that' need not deter .the prudent and
conservative from" copying the cloth
gowns in other fabrics and colors fills
those ordered by too ] dMlga«v