The San Francisco call. [volume], June 09, 1907, Page 12, Image 12

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
PARIS COSTUMES FOR THE RACES
THIS Is the time el the year whta
the most i ascinatlng ef gtrtm
make their tppftararioe and wh«a
dress makers hear* the • best op
portunities for the ' display of
jthelr taste and skilL To be smartly
lEownefl at the races Is apparently the
'end and aim of every woman wh»
prides herself upon knowing how to
<Sress well and who realizes that this
Is one of the very, best places to show
off a. pood gown. Small wonder then Is
It that new styles made their debut, new
t ashlosa pass In review, to be con- -
demned or applauded, while even th©
snost eccentric and startling of Ideas
can be carefully considered and dispas
sionately judged by contrast with the
snore conservative or better known ef
fects.
\u25a0Kimono Sleeve Effects
The irreat variety In fashions Is , most
potlceable at the races, where no longer
lis It considered essential for every one
to follow a certain ' Style of dress, and
although the first Impression of such
jradlcally opposed designs Is most be
jwllderlng, after a time the eye becomes
.trained and amid the chaotic • and ka
ileldoscoplo mass of color and line the
distinct form and color scheme of each
creation stand out as from a gorgeous
-background. It would seem r as If this
season any and every color Is popular
'end that no one marked fashion holds
supreme sway. One of * the leading
houses, one that has always advocated
the extreme of empire styles, still
proclaims Its belief In the fashion, and
most exquisite examples of the period
«3oes Jt eend forth- The long drooping .
shoulder Use, with the kimono sleeve
effect, the fun graceful skirt falling
in long, loose lines and the - general"
appearance of the entire gown, that of
.the most exaggeratedly \u25a0. artistic, can ';
here be noticed In full perfection, while
the smartest and most severe of the
taller made costumes, according to the
Parisian conception of the tailor made,
is in delightful contrast. This same
tailor made costume, that Is at, present
thought so smart has cither a pleated
er . circular Eklrt just short enough Ito
clear the ground, -
, The coat, three-quarter length, is ion
the same lines of a man's , cutaway .
coat, fitted and like the. new fad* in
men's coats, bound ' with • braid. • There
is always a waistcoat, and the waist
coat is most elaborate, braided or, made"
of richest brocade. JWith this is worn
the simplest of shirt waists, finished at
the neck with a high linen:collar,;not
*. turned down one/ with a" plain."! high
mannish shape. This -is fastened with
a Jeweled \u25a0 collar "button': of \u25a0 large .'size, .
whileanother button-holds It at the
back of the neck. -Charmingly,' lncon- :
frruous with this collar is the. full jabot -
of lace fastened under; the collar but
ton and long enough to fall down over
she. waistcoat. The correct hat. to wear.
with this costume' Is a large flat
brimmed shape. ,- with '- quantities >of
flowers and ribbons. Th* ; mixture .-" of
the masculine and feminine ft* this out
fit Is charmingly > attractive, but « the
danger Is in the copying of the original
model; --for, '-'4* can readily t be'. under- 1
stood, the possibilities of exaggeration
•are many • and the pitfalls > for? the i un- '
jwary are in consequence to be 'dreaded.
I V?lth thp iticeptlon of these tailor fln
'lahea ccstuaasr. wbiclr should i be? made
In light \u25a0 welgL t \u25a0 clotlu serge . or mixed
Cheviot, . there : Is no : hard' and ; fast rule
'as to the materials, to be worn for .race
costumes. most costly of silks and
laces are worn, while air sorts" of nov-;
elties in materials here make their first
appearance. The entire costume, with
coat to match, and the finished ; gown
with separate wrap are alike fashion-"
• able. Costumes^ of flight ? weight? cloth;
and gowns of lingerie and laces are. all
in evidence, until one feels that the
fashions for ~ the entire year . must
6urely be passing ' in review,- so "many
and so-varied are the models "dis
played. . .-..-•.,. • • -• . "
Extremely graceful are most" of this
summer's gowns, and although, the*
loose semintting effect given by the big k
shoulder seams and kimono sleeves was k
not in its first 'rendering 'becoming, ex-
cept to the most /slender women,' a
careful modification of the design] has
made it not only possible but becoming
to. stout women '-'also.' Voile, 'soft silk !
and all thin materials are; effective fn
these gowns and plain, flowered "" or
striped designs are equally i popular.
Striped voiles. and chiffons are consid
ered extremely, smart, and' when black
and white stripes are chosen ; a touch
of color in 'the girdle is mostv effective
and very fashionable. .
Satin and Velvet Bands
Bands of liberty, satin or. taffeta; are:
most popular this year as trimming and"
are used In all sorts of different fabrics.
India silk and ; pongee r gowns': are Im
mensely, improved by^bandsv of taffeta,
while the luster of liberty satin bands
on an embroidered or. lace gown " 'or
even on plain . chiffon = is remarkably -
good. These bands are on the bias and
must not. be doubled,' but left in -the'
single fold, and arc in graduated .widths-,
when put on' around the .skirt." When'
put on in horizonal -lines:; they- ardTso"
', arranged asUobc much "narrower" at
the waist than at! the foot- of the'skirt.
velvet ribbon, bands' are- still toVbe~
noticed, but Just? at present the 'i satin
folds are considered | smarter." •-.;-
The i fashion; so v popularities > summer '
of ; the silk coat or.wrap Is a most prac- \u25a0
tical one, {now; that; it: isconsidered'es-*
sential.to havergowns made as thin and":
transparent: as ; possible, t; for '.with" tho \u25a0
transparent ; yoke , and ? sice yes { there \ is l
sufficient ; warmth • to";, the \ gowm except-"*
ing r - in • excessively hot ' weather ; 1 conse-'
quently 'the^ little i wrapj 'proves of the "
greatest service,', as! It ' affords } all^the :
protection needed and at lthe, samel timet
gives- a . most »; charming 1? finish^tb'ithe
- costume. .. Wl th ' a ". go wn ; of t ranspar en t'U
striped * voile,/ two . shades "of -gray.^the
skirt \ trimmed: with 'lbands t off. taffeta; *
the coat:of UffctaHsl theTdalntiest'and '-
: most' becoming?dfiv6ilergarmerits land t
has . aV,touclifof B lndivlduajlty. ? about " It ' : ~
that ; marks \it \ instantly/ as \ the 1 * newest*
•of models/. There "is 'no; hard' and 'fixed
. rule^as .to the; model 'to be;follbwed.ln r l
these I coats ; ;\ in 5 fact,*' they;, are -\u25a0 always '\u25a0+,
more'or less;dlstlnctlve, v .forjevenlwhenv
; there 'ls; a suggestion "of 5 the I mundane ?
I pony coat It Is most cleverly^ suggested
. rather,, than dfiflned."; while . the [lines are s
adapted Uo » the \u25a0 Iridivldualg wearer^ C^* >
\u25a0}'£ Light and bright colors arVextremelyT'
fashionable", this 'season,! and^whlle] all r i
white gowns are,* as always,^ considered &
"very; smart, '; the^colored linings are ; most ;
; popular, ; and ? not** ohlyjare s pink,'- blue & '
( end Euch colors iwora' ; under the f trans- . :
; parent I fabrics,* but<? most «: dainty | and% (
f asclaatlns ; tones -of gray. ** Wi th ; a* coN * j
ored llnine-tlie: belt, and, the ztrlmmjng •
on' the -hat, can carry but! the same c010r, %
and-also -the parasol. ;.; The .plain chltton
gowns,;also ; afford t" ay- spjendidi'opgprf
tunlty for color schemes.'and the; lead-'»:
ing artists, in dress I- making -have been v ;
quick to \ take :\u25a0: advantage I thereof. r :; A^
bright pink 'chiffon' with a sashTof; blue,
is an instance,'!. v.'bile"; a^pale~ blue. with;
mauve 'girdle; and "a yellow'; with? a:
bright * blue I sash - are'also " instances', of "
the : contrasts \u25a0 in color."- In! the] descr ip-'v
tiori these : sound 'crude^ -.and/ startling,'
Picturesque Costumes for Brides and Bridesmaids
B" liIDES;-and; bridesmaids \u25a0, rejoice {
In a.l variety .'off material for.' their]:
costumes this, season. . At ' a' most .
elaborate wedding : recently ,, the
bride wore embroidered .* iisse .blonde^;!,
-made over satin. ' .The/'corsage^was r '<
- draped with gold ' gauze - r and I Irish* lace.'^ *
. The : satin -court/ train- was ialso " draped r ,
\vlth ' Irish laci and \ mbusseline^de : sole.; :
: Another' late>spring>b'rjdej'^OMVwhite;^j
satin,' embroidered iii .silver., The bodice.':!
~« was; also.^embroidered ;Jn ,; silver j' and -\\
tflmmeil '\u25a0 with crystal" fringe and , silver^'
, tassels. ,The :/tfaln:,was^draped , with ;
silver. :!...; "\u25a0:
_ A , : thlrd> v bride >; wore vftwhite '.-. satin,* '\\
' with " Brussels^ lacc'vi The -;wed=4
; dlngVveils -of j.the^ three ibrides ".were (of uJ
.Irish'; lace,'* over, a} tiara^ofj orange bios-, 1
! soms> and //of ?^tulle;Vwith»;anfO
•orange > blossomlwreath^ and\ a 1 heather! »
aigrette, : ' arid 'of k tulle' /withVa;!< Brussels'^.]
.border.^ '-^ : :^y' r S : .yiy
Silver^Trimming .Popular ., H ' ; - /\u25a0 \ i 1
j 'SllverjembrblderyjalsojdecbratedianVii
I other "The 'X*
rskirt,V of ? ivory : satin, « was l heavilyj «Ai- "i I
;• broidered';; with^ silver^ sheaves." :-^The '% 1
• walst^ was silvers; em^
• broidery] and * had } ai yoke \ and i epaulets
of 'silver- lace.-'^A^brldairgow'nTbfXwhite -A
satin J and V chiffon P was f. trimmed^wtth'^. 1
embroidered panels -of chiffon; bordered *
with passementerie. ,: This . gownj h#d ial*"
train of old lace falling from the sboul- 3
'ders.^A'i princess p bridal 3£ go wn \u25a0?> was ; : ; >
>mad»-wlthTa tyestioffchjffon: yA.ivery-«
picturesque | bridal | eoslum* KWM M<itJtt
crep« ; de : chine, . trimmed s.with. with J silk ilace.'f. t
Quite a dazzling bridal costume lwas. 1
, made | of * white \ silk, Welled i with! stiver 111 1
; tissue,\«mbroideredt in pearls 1 and topai"^
escent i .' Bequins.f £Ar>t beautiful ?s empire fr
bridal f.{ costume Sf was * , trimmed £ S withf *.i
Brussels ? and * Honitbn a lace,; ; SfosC i at- v 1
traotlve also wasatulld^weddlnK gown* «:
trimmed with IxtulsSXVT bows 6f«atliu;'t
\u25a0 . " •;-•./ \u25a0*•\u25a0 - : ...
but ' in t reality viney are* tuereijT-oiimi*
and "effective to ' a 'most ' fascinating de
greeV:^ '"\u25a0'\u25a0•'\u25a0'.. ';\ '. .•\u25a0-.- v-. : V; :'^^:i"^'^i >','
v» Blacki arid i white ; l3- this'year.lespe-
daily fashionable | and the 'combinations
thereof. areYendless.^Besides^thejblack;
and \l white i striped % materials >there i are j
the'iwhlte lace"and?embrbidered?gowns]
.with"? the '-blackf-trimmlngsT^Trhllel that*
most t becoming ; of ;styles,ithVjblack' hat \
with* thel white; gown*,*; has fagain'sbeenV
revived -litnost 5 successfully,^ and vblack|
gowns '. with ; white * lace ",'gulmpe y and[
"emb'r'oidered^ with (pearls' \ and; brilliants :
J'and •lhavinfif.l a] courts itra'infbf Uace^over'
iwhlte^hatjwas^trlmmed^withfaydng;
;sllver;tls3ue.vAn,empire gowhrofjWhite
satinylwast embroidered :).withtiwreatl>s;
! i of.'pearls.?;TheJcourtytraln,'f|.which^fell;
•'fr6m>';ithe> shouldera,"4 was sof ?,%m6lre:
'antique.. - \u25a0 ,;.%.v •• r' "., f:,' :- :[ "
Costumes'! are/also Vntost'
picturesque."At'one' ! w"eddlng-the*brldes- : ;
; maids wore | gowns * 6f j embroidered tba-|
,tiste ''-An} pale :* ecru.t madejwith f; draped 3
surplice f fronts ! and 'empirei baeks^Over;
these Igowns (were n , worhjl cream ,
dj rectolre \u25a0 coats.>f Theiri hats Iwere^ pinkVf
with|long ; plumes. . *',**.\u25a0 ?
;5/Anotherfeset xof
.white < chiffon fembroideredliriVpink^ and •
blue/y and their i'sllverS crinoline* hats)
were trimmed with: pink, carnations I and
forge t^mefno tsTt^fAt most } ati|
tractiy^^weddingitheibrldeßmfldsiwore^
Romney^'f rocks %pt iplnklstrlped^^auae g
aridjbiifistrawlhats^tiediwithiibluejrlb^
bohsiiandicarrled^lbouoiuets-yof^plnkl
roses: ; ; ?^p;* z?:-m£:.;; ?\u25a0:.<.:. imzZm^
•^'Atja'.mostjelabbrateXw^ddingJthefs^s?
brMesmaids i wbrej'^llo^^ye^'9j,'^e^*oJ|i|hii ; ei'i;
gownsiin?'emplrejBtyle^|trtmmed^wlth''
cluhyl lace^andf gold? embroidery. frVJCbe ;;
paler yellow chiffon sleeves wer« an ef-.
fectiye:featurei of the] gowns. hats*
wornUwith. i:il»rdwii|
chiffon : plcture:hats trimmed with < os
trich feathers^ yellow^ .roses "i and , cold}
apples.'^The' i <matds l JcaTrledvstaVes,^Ho'<
theftopsiof^which^were^carriedVibiffS
bunches of a yellow, roses'" and? bows *of £
yeilowj ribbon, j ,*•\u25a0.: | : A. ::k::: :k:: ;i 1-- \u25a0?:- ?^f.l
There ;wefe J five bridesmaids :at?aVre-V
cent 'popular ,i wedding." r= three > being t
grown t up I and i two? very "Tyoiungv gir|s.|
the;- adult V bridemaids J v wore'; empire |:
go wns "of cream voile -and 'Cream^ satin';
mushroom^ hats. >'i The. Juvenile \u25a0 maids |
woreTemplre";«atlnT«owns.l^All' ! fly«^car4
riedbouquetsot redSroses. ' -\u25a0..--' t'-''.
The }. single 1 bridesmaid who; was t the ,;
atteaaant'at;atcharmlng!cduntry,wed-r
diWf iy6f6¥ s> > sown S> of \% jwiilt* 'doth \
trimmad^iut; muslin- embroidery and
:si eeve s --: nave \ apparen tly taken > a*. n*w
!* lease'o'f \ life, 1 : so •'.varied' aVe 'ithesv in 1 de
\u25a0-. sign v'V A* touch^^bf^gold^ embroidered
.* filet If lace . Is"? introduced QmostTcleverly,'
n too,^into " the "black : \ gowns JrWithi white
randimakes^them'ilook^ectjrely^dlfferent
tfrom'anythlng that! has .been seen here
; tofore;;; l'v-.~ •', •_• '^r.i.^ri-.-'---'-- \' \u25a0 .v, \u25a0\u25a0 :
Hand^Embr^«i^^Nejce^^^ \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0
?plEn'tireT^eo"stumfesl"pf : Uaffeta\;silkVare
J new, in*'design'i and 1 ; coloring.
Sand \ iri*mbstl*instahces>; are :; extremely
i blue \u25a0 arid i lavender \ velvet. V. Her'' large
/J blue! feather/and I? lav%nder.Vros*si\{ She^
fcarried 1a 1 bbuquet 'of.' 11l ies^and •
:^Two;.HttloVbridesm^
T&ble^edding'^ore,fxocks*of,whlte;voile :
\u25a0 hats ' trimmed ostrlchTf eathers "and
f pink f. tulle^-They Ji carried I big Ibouquets
> ipin,ktcarriatiohsr- ? JJ J A; group*? of I older .
«brldesmaldsK:vw6re^white*satlnVwit^*
'draped' bodices fastened .with 'satin roses '
landMea.v^^Their^large^hatst^were:
atrlnimed 3roses,S and £ tbTeif.
Ucrooks^wereTtledlwithibunches of roses 1 :
vand'llllesJof the valley. v-^V<i:,f^ 01:
iPinkran^Pal^i Blue
jo f^Whltej taffeta iwa's i.chosen -.byVariother
ft set* of :7 for^niosi 'attractive)
Th'eTmalds iwore^plnk'-rlbbon "
J^chuajedged blue; fringe ? and '
I .whites hats -trimmed :wi th] long; whi te*os-">
Q trlch plunies.^;TSeyTcajrl6d" bouquets 6t
- sole^trlmmed *"with\tulle | and"; pale? blue*'"
Dsa'tln?^ -Theltni'aJds f who these"
* dainty:?; costumes $ crowned 3 theiKwlth*;
s pale "blue i hats] and i carried? bouquets f of
(lilies "and "p(nk" roses .tiedV^lthlblue- rib- a
costumes *'
£**"! 1 1^ |bWeTv6lle;twith i trimmings %
f^Mi'H'- ?9\'°t? d ' l lace.\V Their: white - L«g- -
\u25a0 horn , hats .were trimmedlwith' blue ; rib-*{
and jcyellowJiroaes.: ;"Unusual >! also*
the f dresses j worn by six) brides- :\u25a0
:: maid* at a recent 'wedding. / Thai frocks*
h^t**:ofrCwhlt«snlnonTvde^sole.Mwlth { l
fa*« hat&rot iflilver.straw' trimmed with
i; silk: v' other i bridesmaids'' costumes of
fvcreilmtnJhbn [dejioielwere • trlm»«d iwlthi
i pelerined of . silk; edgred .wlta: tulle.i The I
maids »w6re. cream Mtomney>hats. "<-,?• «.*
pi\u25a0 Al matron ; Of honor who : attended i her/
a sister] atia .fashionable* spring; wedding r
; wore U^satln^striped igauze ?gbwn \u25a0 in f
•^«t»la»a*dJcream^nd?A\btown\tuU*^
I hatrfrith?s>*loa»,i>ink!featheß; '}»:\u25a0 • .^- •\u25a0
:•, smart,? while "• never 'before ,' have \ there,
.boenf so iinanyl different • models iOf soft
'tllkj gowns vwitb> a- satin! finish;: pongee
-; also, Is ( ,t6'be ; noted* In Uhe "^rather ; vivid'
*; while -satin? finished •\u25a0\u25a0 ' crepe '->* fle *
! chine "is made lipj in all light colors and
'; an; unlimited ; space'; for; thai exhibition
,of?exquislte"handi embroidery . ! on
i material i itsel f . •: No .i go wn, \u25a0 > however,
I this ; year^would : bo considered \ complete
'] without i sdiheV hind - embroidery s on I" It,
\u25a0 either :- in ;; the %•., bands \ •-; that »\u25a0 trim ; It or
\workedsih itheffabric'or.-dlsplayed on
:th el waistcoat fronts iof ;the:coat !\u25a0-* *
• VjlJghtvwelght 'Cloth gowns?lnfsummer
,'are'not|the;mostipractlcalj Investments,
jbut 'i none ? tl;e"j less I are; they^" absolutely
1 requisite many. a day,? and; for: the races
<a,:J smarts cloth is : always in
'good'style^iTheVwelght of 'cloth- most
-fashionable - is ; dellciously v light - and^
most perfectly to
I the] present styles. .The ! I6ng plain skirt
of requires vthe tsklll
.'of .van^artist Vat 7 dress making -to; be
turned ,out"|to' perfection; * but- the re
sult .is so; satisfactory., that « "the" cost of •
such", service : does : < not . seem ? excessive j
- iThere < Is f a " suggestion of } the ; princess
and.alsorashint oflthejemplre in' most
of : the iclpth?gowns.^ although; the >soft
draped > folds f onUthe a^yaist quite „do
away '.with .thelhard, - crude : llnes'of jhe
princess gown!lntitsaccurate'cppy, J and
the 3nfluence> of ,'tho ; emplro* I3 1 revealea
only, in , the ahort,waistccat lines caused
by,; the ? skirt coming Iso .high> above tho
true Nwaist ;i line^ X The ; kimono 'i Jacket
ls|a*favorlte' model with'-the cloth cos-
* lim f '.'. ' * nd > tha . /\u25a0T s ' lde * sleaves *do '• not X
The Decorative Over Bodice on Waists
': ; y^\ E , °f tli ej most' striking features
I .'- \u25a0 oosf s h | 3 - . season's n fashions ' is
'decorative -over': bodice, which
. , - 1 is to be seen;on. most of .the fancy
•.waists 'which l', are to* be T worn", in : the
f afternoons; with elaborate* coat' sults'or
" : f or ; lnf ormal|eyenlng roccaslon3. y These
: bodices . hardly, deserve \tho \u25a0 name i n I all
!cases,';a3 ! they;are'soinetlmes, little more
. than J;;ela.QO/ated ?\u25a0; suspenders. . ''Again,
I they are modiflcations of t tho bolero,* the
• fipencer.^orJ" the Vfichu.l as 'they * present
'.a^yariety/ofi designs) brought 'about*. by
the combination 1 of auspendera and wida
{ belt,^ 1 ! or \u25a0' suspeaders.' bertha f and \wide. I
I belt,* Or .bolero; and' suspenders.- In ': fact,
levery.'^ possible,!; arrangement uof p trlm
> mlng? wh^ch v can ?be) conceived * tb*> be"
.worn\over" atwalst;" of iwhlchiltf forms.
the Jdecorationl arid yet. from^ which iit
'ls,'Tor j ;'appearsHo J ibe,"^entlr«lyJseparate, t
; is 4now.gf ashibnable " f or£ fancy -'waists. [
"iWaistsj'h'ave Jin*^, many| cases." "at v first
*glance, ; the f appearance (of ; being " made .
of j one {with! yoke ' and* lower '
sleeves < of J another."?^ Closeri' inspection." "'=
however,^ reveals the 'fact that care has '
been\taken to produce} the 'effect \u25a0of | tho I
over^ bodice? in | this* design,^ alsol :;The "'\u25a0
entire iwaist^isfofteh'madejofioneVma
terlali* and^with^thls .there la- worn a
"diaphanous • over I bodice.', sleeveless ' and i
ajyoke.* 3 ; * "'-^-"r; ' -\u25a0\u25a0 ' :\u25a0 '
?;>;A>strlklngtlooklng,blouse*bfithis*sort'
which* Is i Just r ! from \u2666* the • hands Tof >• '
French . modiste -^waslmade i Of t chiffon '"
-The § San^Franclsca \u25a0 Sunday / OalL
/crush the sleeves of the dress waist
< overkwhich "they ar© ,wora. TUoro is
apparently no desire to' fit thess J^ck
( ets/and^yet far more attention is paid
-to ; their.; being \u25a0 suited i to the individual
; than Uh© uninitiated could possibly im
-aglne.. '','.'
In i distinct contrast to this model
with the kimono Jacket wrap is the one
"that:- has "the long semifltted -coat, to
.he worn. fever rthe long plain skirt with
waist ; to match. It : has the disadvan
tage of; being so warm that it Is not
possible for. wear \u25a0In hot - weather; al
though .lined .with India silk of the
; lightest weight of /\u25a0 taffeta, it"*.' Is not
nearly so heavy as might be imagined.
'But the fashion is a charming one and
\u25a0the lines so becoming to a woman with
. > good : figure that It : is not remarkable
i It \u25a0 has met with : great , favor, especially
as - it : is an Impossible model to copy
in ' cheap materials : and poor work.
Linen gowns are to b© : seen also at -
; the" races* once <thel weather makes it
possible, to wear them. This year they
- are. most fascinating. In color and de
'slgn and the new models are In endless
variety. There are the plain linens of
finest texture f and fascinating colors,
\u25a0and embroidered: and lace trimmed lin
ens of cbstly^valne, tho hand work and
lace: trimmings putting them quit© ba
yond '\u25a0> the T reach \ot \ the great majority.
But - the^ great « majority can find com
fort in the knowledge that at compara
tively, small cost can be found extreme
ly, smart : and \u25a0 effective 1 linen costumes
that will Challenge comparison with the
. most expensive in general effect. \u25a0
-and,lri3h*lace'in white, and was worn*
with an over bodice Tof black lace. The
white, waist^was high necked, the Irish
laca: being used "for yoke and collar
and for 5 the upper ' part of the sleeves •
•which - were • three-quarters *in length.
The ; lower part of the white waist was
laid . , in • fine . pleats. >Thls pleated chif
fon .was made 'over ai plain 'full chif
fon'lining, and, this again over a silk*
lining. -The lace over, bodice was made
In arather,scanfbaby^vai3t style and
} cut lowj to 1 show .'. the <Iriah lace
The black. lace was not used
on ,thov sleeves,Texcept 1 for the , bands
over the, shoulders. It was perhaps
the » enUrely white . - sleeves * with no
touch t of i black 1 on "them i and : the \u25a0 en
!f- e iT 7T hl \l w^r: which . gave th. idea
So of an Tover bodlc% of
black~over - a' wfiite .blouse. Merely a
black and .white lace would \u25a0 not
have shown ' so- distinct a separation.
>It:is;;now very; faahSbnablo to' hay©
the. blouse iproper^made entirely '-of ac
cordion .^ chlCon net. Liberty -
I silk." etc^ over, which 13 ' worn c ; decora
ttivei arrangement [such" as hasten de
scribed." The: accordion* pioated blouses
are • quite '.plain,^ fall Ing straight from
\u25a0 the yoke;band^to lthojbclt.. The sleeves
are also^of ; : accordion? pleated chiffon,
elbow or --three-quarter "length. Usu
ally the accordlow^plaated '* sleeves -ara
made 'this 1 length.%- Shorter sleeves are
made » more soften \ : of >laca ; ruffles .and;
shirred ; chiffon,*or «.ot Jac« eqjhroldery .
aadtsatia:trlmmings, *