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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, June 09, 1907, Image 4

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THAT there is a hub of the uni
verse every one knows. \u25a0 That
there is a. hub of the automobile
world and that hub la San Fran
tisco every one does not know. But
luch if* the fact. San Francisco, alt
ling among her hills, forms the hub of
»n immense wheel from which innum
irable spokes radiate in the direction
if the four earth corners. Some o*
these radiating spokes form broad
llghways in the automobile world;
»thers are but ramifications, byways of
ihe roads themselves, but all • lead to
taunts of unsurpassed beauty, rest and
loveliness, undiscoverable. Inaccess
ible save by that reducer of time and
SiEtance, the almost übiquitous"auto
One of the most beautiful and pic
turesque roads leading out of the city
tas been practically unknown until a
ten* weeks ago when the Automobile
Dealers' association of California held
In endurance run to I^a Honda. When
that run tras first suggested hardly
Iny one of those anxious to go knew
\u25ba hat the road was like. So some of •
those who wished to do their machines
md their steering powers credit went
luietly over the course before the date
4et for the contest. When the beau
ties of the road were discovered amaze*
eient *vas universally expressed that
«uoh exquisite spots sholild exist un
known and unheralded just outside
San Francisco.
In order to take this particular trip
>ne niust follow- the San Mateo road,
lust before the heart of the little sub
irban town is reached, one comes to a
iridge. but the bridge must not be
troesed, for it is the road just to the
light of it that leads to some of the
Host enchanting bits of scenery in all
Tallfornia. This road is so shaded with
Jail drooping trees that it resembles
I broad lane. For a mile or so there Is
I gradual descent, then comes a reach
If open country, and then the auto b%>
|rins to climb a hill. It is a steady
thug-chug upward for about a mile.
t\Tiile several branch roads leading to
private homes are passed, one lias only
to follow the pain which shows the
fesalt of much travel to be pure that
fre is in the ris-lit direction. When the
lutamit is finally reached a splendid
panorama bursts upon the rye. Far
town, some hundreds of feet below,
tpread to right and left, is the Crystal
Iprlngs lake, where the water '.', '%','
lor the city is corraled. Mountains
rlae on every side and, in the field and
iroods \u25a0which border the lake^ there is
*n Impression of neatness and form
that conveys the feeling that one is
bassing through the park of some
vast estate.
From the enxnmit overlooking the
take the road runs down to the shore,
fend an eaey coast all the way. A
crossing is made about the middle of
the lake, and then comes one of the
tnost deceiving bits of roads in the
tvhole run — the distance from . the
bridge to Burns' store, about* three
blocks away.
It is the steepest grade. Practically
every car has to go Into a lower gear
to make it. From Burns* store it is
mountain climbing for over three miles.
tt is climb, climb, climb, following the
canyons as one gets deeper and deeper
into the mountains, twisting, turning
fend retracing, till at times ode thinks
lie must be going in a circle. But every
Instant magnificent scenic effects are
dropping into view. The kaleidoscopic
picture is suddenly punctured when the
highest point. ls reached and Spanish
town valley unrolls before the eyes.
Down, down, twisting and turning, rib
bons the road until it reaches the level
floor of the gorge where It disappears
In the distance, an undulating line to
ward the sea. If this road Is followed
until near Halfmoon bay, or Spanish
town, the sullen booming of the surf is
heard, sounding like a rolling bom
bardment in some distant battle. To
the right, throueh the haze that over-
Here Is Grand Scenery, Big Game and? Rare lFishihgt
M. D. Ashe
READ this bit of Russian; river,,
. hlston' so that, while you [ take
the ridge road to Fort Ross >or ;
fish In the waters.of'.the?SlawJ
rmski or admire the beautiful redwoods^
of Sonoma county your mind 'will be
delighted with tlie reminiscences which i.
the 6treams tl mountains : ' and 'names'; re-^
call of £5 years -of Russian " occupa- ~
' The population of . Alta -California.,
was very much "like "the.: dog i: in : the-,
manger"—t hey; were- too * lazy/Ho ! de-*!,
yelop the i country* themselves % and « still V
did not: like to Bee their 'Calif ornla ? go L*
to" foreigners. ,' They wanted: nojfor-*.|
figners ', hero" and ' they *» gave^ passports T
with ; reluctance.' But i foreigners fca'mej ?
In eplte of Etringent immigration- laws -
M'hich . they very: often : disregarded.*-"
hangs the shore in the early morning,
looms Pillar ', point, ari '. eternal . nionu-^
ment over the graves of \u25a0 those ; souls
tbat^found their last '\u25a0 harbor', in ' the
green depths of the merciless sea. ,^ It
Is a. point 'dreaded bj* the mariners
along the coast, formanya:stout .ship
ha« : gone ashore: there, driven; by/ad
verse: winds' and *tldes, though -in' full
sight of ' the Golden- gate. J
A Restful' Spot
Halfmoon bay reached, the road
leads through the main street, in a
southerly course. The town Is? a quiet
little place, restful and peaceful, where
the; inhabitants seem to extract pleas- ;
ure and contentment from' the lonip
languid days as the bee extracts honey
from the shading vines. Thoroughly
Spanish in . character it-, has all'«the
happy-^o-fucky air the days long
past when the rush of the American
for the elusive dollar was yet a : night
mare of the future. As th«j car winds
slowly, through^ the village one ,is
greeted on all sides by smiling maids
and matrons with the^ familiar "Buenos
dias, senor," in the softest of musical
tones. Speeding' along. a barren shore
for some: miles, a bridge is crossed. and
a quick turn is made to the rigrhtand
the long grade begins. Straight up
the cliff sides for nearly live miles ths
road mounts with never a halt till, one
More.';- than;v that.- - These r*> emigrants'
worked and prospered and Spain gradu- !
allj-, lostJ California "i ' through >' the; inert
.'Spanish-Mexican population./ '•'
• Perhaps . the i- first ; - nation^ that . was
' welcomed I to\ these ' shores \wae !\u25a0 Russia.
'Madrid: and- St. Petersburg .y,wer«£ on!
; pretty f good ] terms 5 at^ that time ? and
•: Emperor/Alexander^ had inovtroublegln' 1
\u25a0\u25a0 getting<,the* necessary, permit) for! a! set/
:. tlement iin£ Calif orn|al%-'AndTwheaUhe '
Russian gran ts!ila.nded'lth"ey/v. were!
• accorded -"air hospitality, by /order; of ; the J
court? of 1 . V -'^ ; - *?/ ; ;^."'>v^i.*
.' - It' happened this .way : , ;The j Russians *\u25a0
had '£ "eßtabllshed's years "'.before "-i many ft,
: sealing. Q stations *.. along f. the > VrAlaskanV
coast: and'hadfbuiltjUp.a'falrltrade. In \u25a0\u0084
* 1 806g M. A 4A 4 de i? Resanoff, •% chamberlalm* to I
\ the? emperor, \was7sent'. to f examine [con-*
ditions " among \} tlie';; Russian ?>\u25a0 sealers 3
along I the J Arctic ; c6ast,*f • Having (done i
bo Ihe \u25a0 sailed . south, Intending': to ; cstab- 1
llsh" a . station *on * the ? Columbia " river. -
hand higher; yet/and 'a dazzling;' glimpse;?
of "the coast ; lme/- with -its '\u25a0'{mlles^.of
.white ribboned -surf :, billowing iin^ the*
sunlight is obtained.T The: air,'; clean?
and salt from 'the j sea. puts, if possible,' '
a \u25a0'\u25a0 keener ; edge ;*<)/•: the \ appeti te^and J
. the /- thought" j 'of -• a i good,*:J square Vmeal^ .
r 'lsjnot- dismissed, so'* promptly ;&B^you'
' feel that your", : poetic .instincts -should
: justify.\ './._ --' ' '; \ : '.^ ";'"/"y'?^ t J ': >^' r i
\u25a0The grade ended,': the,. downhill;. work
\u25a0 commences. - Turning? slightly-inward,
San" Gregorio ' is? soon, .reached 'and a;
sharp^ curve made, overt a; third^bridgo*/.
\u25a0in the direction of .LavHonda. i Now,' the y
heavy wraps ";thati were, '.put on^ when/
- tho \u25a0 tri p \u25a0 began'/.- arc'j thrown -otZ\ and* •
one feels the- heat ; of -; the* pervading \u25a0--.- ,
iSun./A few ; miles ;: through fopen jcoun-V-,
.try. brings- theV-Jautomobiie; to 5 more
. shaded .' roads * and \u25a0;' then icorao j the i red^;, -
'.woods- followed % by t l>a - Ho^da.H where;- ; ;
even'- tlie ' : : most ' ardent ; stops'^
to get rid. of^the \ pangs v.of* hunger:'!'
1 tcs'jminK. the' jourrieyr which' so' far has; :
covered : some ? 54-: ni lies, /one -, ?ta rts one y
on a longr^prade '"of - : fully^ .iiv>.xmileJ«.' \u25a0 ;
' Fl rst redwoods",;' then '-. shaded " cbun try, : = ;
vn t il : sudden ly j ; t he'ii road s,pl un gea ' . ii m o • }
the"elear.top3 of ,the* mountains. rXov/. :
lik« a ; stage, jeffeet ; ; *at'i theVend j of ' a ; \u25a0
Christmas: ; pantomime, v. the.^exquisite '; :
Santa ClaraTv valley , r i.n . all Vlts"<beaiit>v : '
breaks; into' view. \ One i'^slmplyi cannot
.go on; he is ~- spellbound. I :'' >-..The£blii«' ,
waved bay, the - red ;unlversity_.;roofs» of '\u25a0'
Palo Alto \u25a0 and the-; rest ::of a '* superb 1
prospect stand .out in sucha way, th^t; v
it. is r almost impossible 7tOj believe 'that
one'is not in a dreani.^FromHhissum-Vv
. mlt,- with ; I ts^ climax of ;beauty>"it.isa
coast *' of ; 13 miles . down ~'~ the mountain -
Bat the dangerous , bar end lack l of [pro
visions g forced 'him :to^ continue ;' south/;
until he reached "Ban - Francisco. - JHe
was 'taken Iwith' the beautlfui;bayithat
contained r} thousands&of eotter^orlfeea;
beavers V- and ;\u25a0.; with 'ft the^' surrounding]
country^ that?, was)- so > well • adapted -to
farming; arid? stock] raising.; ; ! *-"_•: • :0?: 0?
: Resanoff wrote* to Governor ArrUlaga
at Monterey regarding 'the ''establishing:
ESiinflßw''". 1 ::;": --:•\u25a0>""• • — K.^vr^e&Wi-d
of a, sealing, station 'on\theO>ey.^ saying.-,
•how,*dranUgreou« it would >e : to both y
partiesjand- their- home- government* to
make 1 a^treatyi and? develop *. the ; ,'cpun- ?.
:ry. together.". Arrillaga sbowed;Re6an- ?
aff f great cOurtesy; He camel on; horse- <
back g up! from s Monterey gtJuTJ
Russian s noble and . promised -to lay \u25a0 theY
project ,betor«] the: cabinet; at 'Madrid,^
l^ U; protable tb*t ; i* '"the J; toad ! v
been C 'signed jj our V > hci ac i coast V. would 1
have]ibeen:.:quite* Rusolanlzed.'^j.M.:! de*
Resanoft fell • In, 1 loyeiwl th"- Dona - Con-!;
cepclbn.l; th'er^' beautiful 5> daughter^- of. ;
Louis^ritonipJArgu^llo,^ Spanish^ com-*
andante- at^ San 4 Franelsco/f iHe I'had^
great . popes': of imarrvlng *^>ona Concepf;
California,'; himself surrounded by .his',
lovingvwife andrehildren?f r^"~.' • *' \^.
H '^Resahoff'Si hopes v were;
neyer^ 'ul lyl realized.^ l For^ although* •, h e ;
reached'.^ St. i' Petersburg 5 and I'recelyed.i
besl^ies'^a' commission; >t o r Madrid,- *a \u25a0 11-:1 1- :
jsensestbfnfarry^the;' daughter- of gAr-j
thrown?; from % his -
; was".*j kilfedyg Coffcepcion : Cwas '
heaftbrokoni^ntefedl*. ;a".'."cohvent *and' :
gavefrh«r»e,lf- up {Charity. h '">
t<* ißuti^de^R^sanoff's! idea^was ;».not • toli
perlsb '-tea .tlr ely.-> He Zhad \ written ; good \
clßco'bjjy >wVfeh. 4 ? its therds jof > otters ; -of
the ;ellniate rand soil so well adapted to
farming, : .and Sin -^the ; course Jot .% time;
these documents attracted the attention I
of Jtftejinipetiar^court;^', T^.:.; >% ;7 > i
,er rior. 'pf Russian ; America, " sent' M* de^
Koskoff to • settle » in^ .California,^ Kos-^
koff: landed l^ at Bodega? bayAwith 100
,Russians;and : 100 KadJak*, lndians and
proceeded to build? a- settlement^They!
ibre^t^.w.Tth|i6emlthelrjf* t cayueas I!.?or?I !.?or?
seal r skin boats h used >• in^ flshlng.gf Atl
Bodega' they .built up an : immense 1 trade
in otter. skins. 'killing "as many 'as 800 ;
a^weelc? • one-half • the catch always \
went) to -the -Spanish ',comandante at
San> Francisco *%t or> : the privilege lot I
htmtlng,^ and theS remainder/ swere "i
they.' iold l-torf |60 iwl&ii,* tnd^ la [ 'alack :
ASaa- :7raJi^CQ ' CaH
[seasons, for jsl2s.f! So'.that^the profits
[of^theseiPiorieerKVikingslof Paciflo
wero;enormous.'i'lThe_lr,grsed, as usual,
all ?' but fTextermlnatetJ Athe r otters and
Beals|in*t and about the^t>ay.;*r Our. seal
nantjOf ithelvasti herds 'that sOncejpeo-'
pled --theses waters./ i Russians Vat
\ Bodega: also; raised '": wheat ' and Uva
, stock.r:The principal"farms.*Kostromit
iniff .> and. 3 ; Kosko/f. (supplied . the * grata
[and -'dried -meats for; the "Arctic .'• sta-
| c l About ithe:years, 1817; and; 1S18; com--,
yplaints" wejcc^sent'.to"* the? governor :of v
i'Calif orrila. . and >. there ; . was j ' some ; ; talk '
iofiexpeHin'g'tlie^Russians. * These'com
' plaints t wer outcome 'of the envy
[ of; the'; Spaniards,*, who <• had •>. been . here .
; soAlongx and -whoso ;: settlements .were
» much ' inferior, to " those.- of ; the , energetlo :
\u25a0 Russians. VjThe? Russians making .
" too ."'hiuch',* money . ' 4 t07- please -" the v lazy
\u25a0 Spaniards. .-.-' ** j '. .; \u0084.'-,"'.\u25a0. '. ":
J jealous^'fe'elingsTwere started [
i few \» years ,-'- previous,^ about ; " 13 , miles \u25a0
* north .•: of ', the \' mouth rr r of "the ">. Russian -
; river. i'Here • liieutenant}GovernorJ Kos-
| tromitinlff ? lived c and 'commanded " his
- band ~of 1 COO /soldiers.' \u25a0: -From J. all . ac-'
ii i counts ,hl3 fquarters at- Fort' Ross were :
Sfarisuperlor?to^th6sc iof } the..' Mexican I
I governor! at : Monterey'.- fL He 'Just *. lived ."
onrrsmokedi goo4',Vlrglnla .tobacco ;and ;
•drank|nnesFrench. wines, regardless of
"the " squabbles This'prosperity^was Tcaus- ':
; ltig 'among Mexican (authorities/ - *
p'-}p '-} It Iwas: dur lng> Kostrornl tin Iff *s * term.
'"arjrlvedV In; Sa^j /Francisco, '" h haying .been *
imperial fgdvernment.C»:t Am ong; the
- scientists 'aboard was^ the"; great ? natur- '
; alist; ? ;Dr.*;E." : t Schscholz" f rdm\which \ our;
California pbppylrecelves " Its ' technical ;
fname~Veschscholtzla.".t' . • / ."
.f; As-y'tline -j! rolled" : ;onV the s "; Russians:
showed J little Vor'jnoVsignsfof \u25a0\u25a0 settling
'. permanently. J^The"' fishing; and; hunting;
i aYstandstilU" they|haying i killed
[and' moreoyer/'every.' ship
i leaving, port ; carried off a i score'or more*
lofI of I th'ei ripei pc opl c. ' : '^BSBSfSSe^^i
i: -Pedro = ; kdstromltinlff
- andante* at | San \ Francisco^ say in g* that
| thel ßussians^ intended" to; leave 'America'
*,tois good £and': asked ia 5 price I f or .: their
j lands ; -; and ' : improvements. \u2666 .The ; \u25a0 small- \u25a0
fness tof : Is * here shown." He
|wrot*ito 7 Jnan iß.f Alvarado,'} nlnth^ gov-^;
ernorlof JClilifpraiaJtrsaylng^Uhat'-he
; sinee V the S hdtfSw :*at i FortTßoss " were
\u25a0 tdHtr'ofiMexlcan {timber 'arid^stood^on'
to , Bedwbod and then ) the J home ' Jour-.
ney >ia but; a*; matter of hours. .
- Ar New iWSnder Road
• ; ButTeven ' this • road into /wonderland
\u25a0will soon be surpassed by another
* r •which v A may,*~ be : famous .as regards
motoring and its • joys. '. The Yosemlta
"valley -will - show" its marvels and
,v glorious *- visions : to . any. one who caa
-!~oteer- a rstraight .enough to
" reach ' the ' spot. - 'A- motorist can leave
» the city, reaching Stockton the sama
'\u25a0•:,. day,, and 'starting early, the next morn
; Ing," be: in* the Ivalley before'nlghtfall.
TVHh !a < good "- automobile it is possible
to' cover « the In a: day. and this.
•allowing*!** second ; day" for strips to la
. spiration point and other noted places.
' permits 4 " onej^ to " make * thej, entire r trip
and return * to : the city ; in 'a. \u25a0 little less
\ than a week. 'Another t wonderland ; that (
\the motor carls opening 'the door into
• Is the region of ; Clear" lake. \u2666' ' This part
of \the" state i; as? well" as^that in the
immediate .vicinltyi'of- the; Blue lakes
• has some of the finest roads imaginable.
andN the' motorist -is' always .sure 'of a
, •warm » welcome < from the
V as >they iare exceedingly hospitable and .
' do* everything lnUheir power to render
traveling*, through -their country a
•\u0084 pleasure."- T ; lf 'i one wishes , for \u25a0 a more
"'K rugged itrip- than^that: furnished by the
lake \u25a0' country ; \ he -has but to continue
\u0084" farther •\u25a0 north \ lnto ; Mendocino county.
\where ?the 'character of •: traveling. Is
V rough'- and ; wild 'to the .highest degree.
*" Th\ Mendocino- ; trip xneana more than^
"^ a3 mere" motor ? run • for. pleasure, for
'•there are places -where the road has to
\u25a0\u25a0/ be extended -."by means o* rock blasting.'
v , and often 'timber, must be cleared away
-, before "the tear \u25a0 can proceed.
" ;iOne fof ithe * easiest I and . most enjoy
.is "-that- to-Dei; Monte, which
Ms.: readily imade-in a,day.. The^road
>. stretches; through v level-, country ;until
jthe' ; arrival *iit' San* JuanJ" hill, when it
k is a.sharp climb to the.top. '.From her*
' _ opeof fthe finest .views; of the San.Joa
quin valley. is to be'had.; At. Del. Monte
\u0084: I tself" is . the ; famous -'I? "mile "drive, a
• '"• boon to motorists ' and' famous the world
\u25a0': over/." made *soi by tourists ;,who 'have
:_ visited" the celebrated hotel.' ;\u25a0 . v -
\ : For short .trips' of a'day one hasonly'
-.to cross the^bay.and maka.Nlles canyon v
or the i hills • back of Berkeley. _ Lak«
. Chabot is a delightful - terminus, and
-. .there are * many other places equally
desirable. On this side one can maks
.the run to Woodside, which is not a
* .misnomer, or. farther south to Los Gatos
and through. Saratoga to ths foothills.'
However, one .does not even need to
: -leave the city to • get a • run that will
\u25a0amply repay 'him: In scenic pictures of
' .unusual beauty.* -A , short tour to th«
; crest of Twin peaks will v astonish and
\u25a0 'interest by the- panoramic city Just be
-neath .one's -feet. ' Hundreds of thes«
short '"but: enviable trips are oow pos
sible to the automobills^ in th« qumzner
days now»-' rapidly approaching, and ths
. ; remembi%ica of scenes : visited. long;
drives in >thef cool of evening, or wild
; bursts of speed' through the open coun
try will" -.prove "valuable assets ia the
' short days^ of \ winter .when the hum off
' the * motor " Is ) no ) longer hs ara In th«
land 'and- tha.car.sunda silent in the
.garage. .._
'Mexican soil they belonged to Mexico."
The Impractical Russian said he wourd
• confer with' the governor himself at
Monterey.' These negotiations came to
nothing. • ; But a few years later J. A.
Sutter of "Sutter fort fame" purchased
' the Russian . property - for $3,0.000. He
"was abte to pay; one-half only and the
Mexican government took over . the re
maining debt 'and paid it for services
Sutter had'rendered the republic. "
\u25a0 - The - Russians * accordingly left on
January^!, 1542. I having been here Just
.30. years. One"©* their last official act*
; about' 1835 was to build a large ware
house in San Francisco, for which Pedro
; Kostromitlniff received the license.
. Nothing! remains: of 'thtr sojourn but
a few buildWgs at Fort Ross and'a few
names about i the i surrounding country.
Fort Ross was built by M. de Koskoff.
nicknamed "timber. toe.** on account of
his -wooden leg. . The timbers were cut
on, the mountains in back." The "stock
ade.~; parts Jof, which are still jntact;
Incloses a: rectangular piece of ground.'
at each angle of .which Is a hexagonal
"block house* about 12. feet high, built
of eight j inch \ rough hewn logs. The
crevices between ; the logs are filled
;with * adobe, the logs themselves
are Joined at the angles by -Ja sort of
I dovetailing. I "-In • some . places are large
bracings ; held .by..' flat . headed tapering
: nails ; fully,, seven ; inches long.'
: " The barracks and omcers' quarters
still ; stand. .A * part ~of ' the barracks
Uncle : Sam "uses for., a; postofßce. The
; church !with\its little watch tower and
cross above was squatted on, the ground
;by;the recent earthquake. These build-
Ings} were"; lately^ turned over.'to state
"control "arid;;they are fast .becoming
. ruins .'our /usual destructive
{economy."-. *
~ river .was, called iSan " Sebas
tian by the "early Callfornlans .and ;by
the Russians was known by. the tongue l
\u25a0twisting 'I name ": SlawianskL * Bodega,
; their,; fishing headquarters, they 'called
' Romanzoff. v^SSKSBQBttQHM
vThe X forests jin -back ', ot Fort : Ross
have ;an"entlrely new growth. The
-ridge, roadlthroughnhem": from Russian
; gulch' is] far, superior, to; the coaaf road,
whole'J stretches ., of lostt;them
iselves ?the • ocean "during ' the '< earth
• quake. ; $SMtttßßSP&&&S&£ssfi£
So when "-you . In; your j next; summer
: outing^are*-. looking for a place to se
lect for 'a' day's * Journey i, betake your-
v self .to .the « mouth of the - SlawlanskJ
'. and cross \ the Russian gulch up to the
(ridgeTrpad* and * from ' : the - stumps
*. thatrguide-your^.way ; a ;bit '\u25a0 ot the hla*
~ tory.* of '• your • destinatlon^f-Fo'rt * Ross." :'

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