The San Francisco call. [volume], June 30, 1907, Page 10, Image 10

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
BECOMING GOWNS FOR THE OUTDOOR WOMAN TO WEAR
yi tHAT young- woman does not love the season
Wof the bathln* ?u!t? To hit *»•«>• to the
tar.dy shore of lake or ocean am) ' .«eek the
s—-— «; exhilarating, life renewing- recreation of a
*-££$£ eplath in xr.f waves, or to lounge on th*
eunhy »afui* i i the most comfortable or
clothes. i» one of th» l>?.?t 6f summer's pleasure*.
Every woman w:.u e:»p»cls to pet array from town
now Is turning her tii?jfnts to apparel for her Outing—
for the time of campiug. boetine. bathing", and alt the
round of idle outdoor days r.f a summer. vacation -in the
woods and mountain*, on the shore* of lake or ocean,
or wherever *,h* may hay* planned to spend this best
season cf all t!i*» year. To the thousands' of. b'uty
working worn who seek this brief respite at "this set
son the quejktoa of economy u*ua!ly- enter* in, a* well
for what *he shall \\~iv as where she shall so. •
There ra.^not be any iriarked thangre In the design of
bathing »uit*. but tl.;y must be carefully cut and fitted
:n order :•» Hv» t!ic smart appearance that fashionable
clothes should Lav*. The waist muit be loo*e and the
»!ctve and skirl J.od should be abort, to allow free play
of the muscles n~hlt« *nimmine.
Mohair, and l>Hl!iant!r.f, Rsi.t taffeta silk (which
comes especially for such {.urj>o*ee> are suitable mi.
terial*. These materials »hed the water, and for that
r'sson arc far brtlrr looking and more ratiefaetory tftan
the rcrges and flannels which year* agoiere so in vogue.
: c \u25a0
SEASONABLE NOTES FOR THE HOME SEWING ROOM.
W* kWILK one d!«lik#« to shrink and ett the color
in new material* b»fore making them up
<they are so pretry when new), it often i* the
'Z,' '.'*"- ~ F'SJt of wisdom to do *o. Or gall,- If fra.«h.
f?S^fe nill F(t ariy <olor; ** u >" "tronir a solution is
\u25a0\u25a0» ' \u25a0 * used where n:r.cji white shown in » pattern
M will turn th« white >e!!ow. One Üblcspoonful of ox
frail to a pullon of water is tlj«? right proportion.- ;!lf
tlie material Is put in Vhiv the water i« liot and left
untillit 5s quite cold the ?hr!nking; and setting, of the
color will have been accomplished.
Surar ot load in the proportion of on* ounce to one;
gallon of water is »af« for all color* but blue.^.; \u25a0:
Alum water is good for blue, and salt, it food for
•II colors l«ijt blue.. Saltpeter is «ood fnrblue,- and the
proportions are about the same as for the other*. When
the 'material is ripht for ironing, have some one help
pull it straight and iron. .
JCp matter what i* being made, it is -.veil to remem
ber that -if the work be beautifully , done." if
the garment has been unnecessarily and heavily, nan-.
died the.effect.will.be spoilad. Too much hardly/can
be said or too much emphasis : given t«T the' fact -that
Jt !s necessary to liandte everything, in the;sewinsr as."
little and as lightly and as deftly as possible. Natural-"
~,y. much of this only comes with practice, and it'xvill
come i&ore easily to some than others; but any woman
can acquire the habit, and will feerrgpaid for the "effort.
\u25a0*\u25a0 \* ; \u25a0; -.., ">v' . . .-;
When turning up an edge, say to the bottom of a
HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER
If the warmth that these last named -materials; would
give seems necessary, a lining of albatrosft : or light
weight flannel can be put across the upper* part of the
waist, both in front acd back. . ,
.;> ;. - ; 7 /\; #->';> \u25a0;. - - ; , \u25a0-\u25a0 :\u25a0 _ \u25a0
There is a great "variety of, plaited skirts shown, also
those havinsr fine tucki or gathers around'the waist. In
trimming: a suit with .'some';' contrasting: 'materials -In
trolor. care must b» taken not "to have materials -that
will run. One easily can Imagine what . the, effect; wiutu"
b«. All iclnds of braids, are used, aliobands of eilk,
and even linen and pique 1 . : ;>. • \u25a0', "\u25a0
One attractive suit i«-of;darkUue taffeta. 'with "red
polka dots. The skirt is in, nih^srore*.: cut -flaring, and
the seams are finished Vlth stitching, '/rhe^walst Has
clusters of small' tucks on the shoulders,- and below the
square neck, which is- finished with stitched band* of
the silk. /The skirt and waist Always 'shduld be put "-int|>
one band. ' „ - " *.•:\u25a0:;
extremely-^ Jaunty, pretty : suit i» of dull .';r*ii
mohair, trimmed with; black^ braid. The skirt is «jut on
the circular order,; and. has ft few ": small plaits ;. in. the
front and back. There ate tn'o. plaits on; eaglj^side,
both of \u25a0 the front and back, the neck .is cv t rolßtt and
ie laced down -a .'. short distance with'' 1 black :.corcf^|hiii .'a
tiny Inside facing of /white mohair, shows around- the
neck. There is a belt of the white. -If a' womari'.is
slender, knlckerbocker* of th* same material as -the
waist, the bottom of a skirt, or .any thing, on that order.
keep the, garment -right side; but and- be sure to hold :
the edge "aT-.sy from you. ll is faiv easierJto train 1 * the
eye to dettctanyflfiw in a. line if it is lookod at in thls ;
way thanif* the edge is heldtowards you. "
•-* •; ;.'. ; -r ;\u25a0" ; .-.,; '-. -r. ~ -'sy * '-\u25a0\u25a0 %\u25a0;'. •-/:: - v'^:;'- /...\u25a0 .
"A Rood- .placket -finNhlng" for /a wash, drtss :i* : made.
by: taking - a plcc» of the "material on the stralVht and
aewJrig -ll : ; from t th^ ; v, alst j point : on /one? slde*down*(anil \u25a0;
arbuhd,anil up'to the rraist: point ? on the oppositejsld^.'^
"At t'nt bottom, point the*i*klrt : 'sea'm;muit;b»';clippea;Ti6^
as to allow f for the; turning:.' and .car*; must ;he rusert not =
to, have a bad plsc^ in'the»eani when^the^placket- turns.,..
One side "of • the cJothi. \u25a0.\u25a0preferably on''th#\rltht_Bide:-of '.;
the *klrt.;tufns baok:io the'!wrosg: tide'aadfartSwirsTfor)-:
the facing, '.while. the^ "left" 'side stanfljJ;ojit'lind : k ni«kes)th9
lapplng. This IsKuitablc \u25a0for*allfe"vening;.'gbwns. l as ; .Well.''f
for no sewing: : shows ?on itheirightiSlde^tlie'^ewjnrfbfS
the seam in the first place -being, all Sthat is: aecaesiryJVf
"". - ~\^ aw.': -\u25a0 * --\u25a0\u25a0 ' \u25a0"\u25a0 \u25a0 ' \u25a0'-- \u25a0'\u25a0 '" i-- \u25a0
The' cotton "voile?,; 1 f ;" made*®? .wlth' ( plenty" of .'food*'
i mltation : lace, form dainty > f rockk .for \u25a0 garden^ parties, f
Then ther* a re : the : fioral; printed I muslins;; of ?the"lmoiit^
cha^n^s^esign*;";plnk : /fiowerB^upitt*a\whlte'.^
particular^ coming;^^oxitXsuccVssfullj^tGreeiij'scToir'pat-*
terns also are-' successful, '^either. '-'on tan apple 'greeriT Or ja s'*5 '*
creamy; ground: ; a of j natural! blossoms 'In fa'i^deil-1
cate. pink," such: as; roses or ''Carnatibns7;.to'.bring"the; tiht^
to . a : harmony, and ' not -a ' monotony'- with*- the ".natural '\u25a0,\u25a0
su rroundin gs, . ; will make \ a green gown ' a '"suf»^Success. '-'->_
Mercerized lawn is. responsible for many... pretty dfeeses,
suit, and reaching to just below." the knee, are -worn;. If
I«?heI «?he is stout. bathing^t!ght«; are preferred,- the|skirt'^al
'ways .being Jong; enough to^hide "these 'entirely./and
always^ f ull • enbujii ; to -be beebminir. A -.skirt too scant
or too short is a fatal, mistake. '.' , : - . „
£§ '\u25a0; y ' - '/ : K: -- : --*^*^:-^s-- '\u25a0[.:\u25a0 :'/'v_: '/'v_-
Oilskln^cap*. should, bejworn to cover the: hair, and
may ne coyer»d f b":'na'tly little oapsUo match ,the?suit,
or. the, trimming -of-; the i suit.' ; Can\ r as:sh6«* Vthat '{ have
ankle straps \u25a0 are' : comfortable; and. (rood ;• lbbkingv^Capii
can-be made also jof .any desired material i; and, lined
.with 'rubber." In" shape ; they: usually .follow the knotted
t ...... Outdoor, AmuFsmentS'arejh^althful'and' often full . of
the keenest -J 1 enjoyment:'- .but-one 'thing* necessary : io "the
v fu!le»tVpieaa^ve Lif ,to feel- one's clothes are \u25a0suitable"" to
-If the. seasliore; is tobe the: gpal,
is a probability aha tsiiittble, dresses .to "wear ron water
.-' excursions,- as jvellas in'the -.water," will have to : .be pro
vided. VXatixtally in all these tninss one can be extraya
••iantor£careful,:a*uhVUndly^
can be; made afr.hdme for>yachtlng-:or*lboatlng^and with
oomparatively ; little \u25a0 cspensV They- can "b« l of -_itr£G,
mohair,; duck;: lirienr or pl<iu#..- "\u25a0 T-* ". ; ' o \u25a0
; "?"\u25a0;'. \u25a0\u25a0;:;;; ;v-^.'; v-^. ' ; :;;}-*'' /*;._;' :\u25a0/.'_- --\ .< "' \u25a0V-s.
; For the waist. the sailor blouse always seems to be a
'. the- clear -texture; and the satiny^; surf ac^combinjnf: to
produce;, an*;: excellent : effect.'i Tucks j /are -best 'ytorS trim- ;
'minff ths skirt of a /-plalnrm«r'cerii'edin'UteriftK J Bnd^ther«^
must^be arbatlste'undei^kirt^aaicarftfully^mdcrai^
' ~oyer*kirt.^:iS^lk^f6unditl6n*."6f^courB^
frock'Uojthe Jevel of, aUolei^blyTexpeaslveohe/ arid "for
girls this is fatiperfluoui^at':a|lgarte"ri
f*otly..ff«sh\fand;^Bentially{pr<»tty^bjjtfn^
d f e s s ; i »^hi ds i i frutfejb l c f o X a : y 'Sit ri % \ w ear iryTand ! Is ; eh bs en \
:.ev«nibjf{the/daijghte7s" of .^weaUh^rpafehVfiiJifytheyshive;
'-. itopd; ; taste ; .- ; l^br* the". y<^ung;matr6n. \u25a0 itoweverTi some Jmor^ j
may this the-matcrir*!
that, i.«, most \u25a0.'ccbrioniicalj.ib!; 'the ilonir i r un--anrl "aiirihlngi *
con^der«d;{i.3'siUk;itsclf,'.jhJ .
* *
;>; v N.With} the* approach of ;midsurnmer -come* "the; need of \u25a0
-;du«t^re*iBtirig ; fabric* tfbr?tliose> who V-Vide's and t' drive.'-'
inartlcuUrjrjinilthe'^rallhighw^ys^Dusttc^
; had to niiet-all purses r'.'Vnd^toJcoyePaU^iceisitle'si.^th^:
-:ran«e ,f uriftintjf rcm'therslmp^
, lln^facjhti^tbUhe^m^
>aa|ayeragcMsfsrruckl^bs^omerdaint^
afeJas^practlcaKinkln^^a^thj^afe^rfttyland
-j ratl ve ; in appearance.:- G lbrla is adra i tted ly '; the ideal • du« t .'
" resisting j fabric/^' : : '-'.:->-.'-- : \'X '-"^^'i^M'iK- : *?;A 7 :^ : -'"'-' -\u25a0 -' ' :
'- '\u25a0-'"' :^V"' ;^- ; :y. % y * 'vl:- " s :^:?"^','/''u-:/..''. : ' :
;; On^the other hand, -tneTtailjandi over, slender; woman
;.Btiould^ave*her^rass^sfbllngmff-aV^fashl6n^^^
"Skerniay^have^mslee^s^and*^
-y^^ l ?^ l sh e"sh6uMaake:car e itothav€'^her|' shquldera*
<and^bUßtjleft_iair:.widevaSa^
gr«at v favorite, and - accompanying-, this should :be. a
plaited skirt. Clear directions for making these blouses
are given -with any of ? the patterns. :Thelonff.
half fittinf'^coatl are In gooß style? and a stiff. plain ha f.
on! th«,,eallor*order, .i» worn. Xothins ' elaborate s look-^
Ihg would be -in good -taste.. " : ?<'-. " .;, v ' V
":, . For* te'nniejthft skirt -always should . be: short, just
belonvL.the tops* of -the: shb«s. . A' smart model 'is. of *
striped 'piqiil, rtiade _wlth.V plaited skirt, and .trimmed
\u25a0with ; iVwaih 'braid': around^the- bottom. ' Th«"re"Sis*,.a' <
jtuntjv^short '.little coat.V tririiiried Tvf'th the ; braid; and
pearl - button*. ' A"; plain', white ; tlhen shirt waUt iis \u25a0 worn
with ,thl» isu It; .-; And,' Vpeakiriir *of .the >. tailored ; ihlrt
vai«ts. ? th«y \ af^^perfect 1 .; looking;^ when well', made.; and
with the beautiful - little 1 turnover-; embroidered collars
that ;are"somucjv worn "now, make ah attsactive adjunct
to 'the -two "piece*; suit. -^ ?.^ : ".. '.: j; : ; \u25a0 :„:
4lf,4 If, ope^is to. live, in ; camp" 1 and regularly rough -it dur-V
Jnf ,the \u25a0 .vacation,' som* : % heftyi«r.:_tvarmer^clbthes "need . to
be" provijßd. \u25a0'\u25a0_ 'A j sweater ~;:J$ .;kn' : excellent r thing-. v and-; k
«hort, plah|'.^ ; opl«n skirt.^;twhen r a-lifhttr welght'suit i«
needed, "oni-6f-J<hAkl\ cloth i* 'good. \ The "skirt. and coaC
both r «hould b6 as; simply,' made as possible;. l Shirt waists
of ouCinf Tflannel ,ax4 :rtomfortab|« and easily 'laundered,
a nd pongee f one* '.for ' tKerwarmer dtya .are - comfortable.
Good \u25a0 stout '.laced Iwalkpfg ;:bo6ts,'jWlth "' rubber - soles and^
h««l«.- will }be . found Just the thing 1 when tramping-. They'
keep -the . feet dry - and ; are soft and ' springy feeling. V_
; 'V| A-viio vei ty ; ih \ London last . y ear. " and ju»t ; now ; getting
\u2666Btabli»hed bver,her^i«'a womitt'i traveling. tolitt case.
Jt;ls/a, sniaU.qliandaome ' ba'irV^.ulukUy of "leather, con
/ taininsvall that is. required v !n' suchja-ebmpict form It
can . be,- carried \ \ n the ; hand without " diniculty ' or at-
l tractlng Ipartlcular * nbticy. V; The" center Bpac« ju«t;hblds
. the r njffhfs^ attire; -; ami \All:\ All : the toll e t "articles j are \u25a0* rttted
.around. >, For. arTveek end; visit or/a" motor Jcar* excursion
'.it'is perfect."-^ "•":" .^.-:^ : - v ".'\u25a0' \u25a0\u25a0, '. ' .;-,;•:;; ..->,'
*C-x v'v :PS£ Yzßz*\%.*4 .- ' \u25a0 -{'\\- : -. ' : \u25a0 :\u25a0"\u25a0/. :
•- ;T lnatead Ur'th* -highly" brnkte para»or sticks of th«
Jpi*t."natura^wo6d^.ones.n6w;ire i modjxh."; Butthe;Bticka
«normou»lyV t2lK;adlclinfonp/mbfe" : touch ofVexa's
1 g«r*.Ho'n;HbJt^he /jnanjCJlarge^ toilet -details which al
include^hujgij^ha tsv-^blg i sho*' buckl<»*. : and ?l«cves
/byino {means small. 1- To .trtrii the> sticks jraitzeTa'nd
'taffetas ; are* employed- woifm! abrtutfthofniood-'and "tied
.bow,"; frbnj :.v, : hich ",- depend • long v enil«. ;
S.--v'u-- '\u25a0; ::C V -:;' .; " \u25a0^•-\u25a0^r'v.".** ; - ' * . ': \u25a0 -' \u25a0" £[\u25a0'...' '>'"V : • -'.\u25a0'-' 'V^
-- ; ; - ? The r beauties of , cotton " voile, the - prin tins; <o f '^hicli
a ssu redly- has [reached - perfections are 1 ns taiiced - in a de-
v lightf ailyisimple sown ' desicn'ed ; . for] the* lawn'ahd gen
g«al|outaoor2wear. ;,TheV rnauriaii: waj i faintly pinky
imauve^patterneduwithj sweet \ pea» one'shade deeper and
bluefiin^tone.' >Itil6oked^exquislte. nibuntedion \white
5. taffetas /of ,. white Tchiffon "> between^': and
three bias {folds of -material \wj th -.tiny ; lace 'frills \ turned
{upwardsradded_a note of charming frivolity. .The bodice
:^a^^rMg-ed^w|thfa'p^nt^'openins/^tHned'^thTfolds
"^of rpalest*- blue fmbirb : sllk.'ivrith : a* deep' belt : of "the same
V softened jby.foidß^of the: voileT
WELL FITTING BELTS ARE
INDISPENSABLE.
are important items in most of th<*
B costumes 'of - the day. Under • the bolero,
, which forms the top of so many tailor niafle
j»»»gg dresses of today, a deep and welt fitted belt
Sags is indispensable. -It i« the l*adin? twtnt i;i
jmSmmJ theevening empire frotk. Between the ed?e^
of ;a; directoire coat th«- belt-appears as the featm-c
of the under corsage.- To m*«t tne necessities of the
waist and skirt, a well fitting: belt l« Important. Even
the muslin' frock is [ Improved by a sash or waistband
6f;some harmonloua shade of «atm rtCbon. .
"\u25a0-I TI ?i c stores -are full of belts 'of "alt descriptions to
meet itfte. exigencies of the case, f Klastlc belts can be
obtained^bf: any depth, finished with embroideries in
steel^of>jrold;> beads."; and with, a buckle of the same
material; I *. these "are useful as '\ihey draw in closely
yet' cbinfortible "to* any figure.'* '. These and other em
brotderedbelts In such materialx as kid. brocaded silk,
and -/velvet are quite costly. Elastic belts made or
narrower, band* Joined together by a r buckle, front and
back, are much Cheaper. It: aeeius as. if, thft width rap
idly Increases ; the cost of production. "**
> For morning ; dresses of '\u25a0 serge » or cloth and for
walits and : skirts patent leather belts are fashionable,
and so are; dull surfaced kid. and both are inexpensive.
For afternoon wealth* belts obtainable art iotn» of
them as* carefully fitted and'tuavay bea«« as it-tiey
were corsets.; ~On»>f i th«s»i will "ti^i, great smartness*
to a plain muMin gown. A pair of well chosen buckle
often :.vUlJ»ufQc«'' to producejra. good effect -with plain
ribbon for the belt , they hold.
WHITE IN HOT WEATHER.
T* |HEnc,ls nothing so cool as a white dress.
In the old days when our grandmother*
, .favored -white gowns they had wliits stock-
i"S». as also -Mtb^thAir nowered dclalna
•ae^fiC goT'n.'.^hutUhes* iwe; Ignore. TVVbave comu
' '* back to tjjelr w-hft© duck skirts: but even with
these ' ; we wisely; prefer. the' champagne tinted shoes ami
». to . ck l n 2 8 .- to ;the pure -white, for there ia noth
ing- so unbecoming to the foot ,«8 a white shoe.
Black andwhlte Is -cocl of aspect and so are the
light, fashionable bluea.-.TVMse people in the hot
months i of: summer .Invariably adopt white gowns,
realising they are as cool as anything else. Looking
cool makes one. feel. cooler.
, \u25a0Raise the^halr! from the nape of the neck as much
as you^caruin hot /weather. 'and wearthe tropical cor
seta made of .'a spider web fabric which is'qulta trans
parent; arid remember it is no use In such' weather
to be in: a hurry. .