The San Francisco call. [volume], July 14, 1907, Page 10, Image 10

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
Dresses for House Work
-p^g— HERE are probably - thousands : » or women in .
P"F^ this city alone who practically do; their own
I housework, and it would /seem/ air, though;
~. „ there could be no , good reason, why* they
;^-*^i";;1 should not be, attractively dressed while en-
SSSSSfiJ cased la thess indoor duties.
It Js far more- sanitary .'to; wear * dress that can be '.
laundered than some old woolen skirt -and most \u0084*ny
«ld dressing sxcque or shirt waist. -. Any of ,the percales.
risjrhaxas, calicoes, or cambrics arV suitable; ;, and .'a .
w«maa never looks' more attractive than when ah«- has-'
en : s> dress of this kind that Js well fitted and/well
raetfe. Bhrtnk the material before Vmaking it up., and \u25a0
then, snake s> sevea.or nine cored skirt." having every
f<rf flare «oaiewh*tVon the cored edge: The aklrt '
•hotxld have m. ham at least five Inches deep around .the
bottom, and at the waist In the; back have it' gathered \
or uy a plait on each side of the back, or cut the. back
a. Joeee habit back; that is, there are no gathers or plaits
in the bsad, and over, the hips the skirt Is cut
•neugh to ripple » little across the back.' Eleven lnchiw;
Is a rood depth for a placket opening.: and- If the; plain
bade 1» c»*d it looks ; well to button it ; right up the
Je&gtb of the opening. These skirts should : be .\when^
finished at least two inches from th» Coor. j; Many .
people prefer a ruffle around the bottom to having iths.
•Wit plain. In this case it Is a good v plan to allow. the
skirt to come down under the ruffle five or seven inches,'.
and Cofah with a narrow hem. Then If the skirt shrinks ;
tie rjfii ears easily be- eet down.
* *
A. rather pretty way to make a ruffle is, to gore r
It Instead of ha vine simple straight widths. There are
&* many cores in the ruffle es there are seams fn the
fckirt. Th« skirt is laid on a table and a mirk ortrac
icr pat around where the ruffle is to be attached. '
or rather tear (cotton tears straight, and a, thread':
should always be pulled on linen to make it straight)
the doth off for the ruffle the right length, then pin ,
•ac end of the piece to the straight edge of a gore and >
cut the strip off, bo it measures once and a half the
\u25a0width of the bottom of the gore, and gore the back edge
of the strip towards the top, so that the, slant' is the
came as Is given to the skirt gore. This kind \of a
raffle rives a good deal of fullness ett the; bottom and
much less at the top than the ordinary straight ruffle.
Plaited or box plaited skirts do not seem so suitable for
the housework dress, as they ar« harder 'to -wash and
Jroo and are sometimes in the way while workinrr. To
co back for * moment to the ruffled skirts, *of ; course
there is no Car* given to the core when a ruffle is ,
attached.
* \u2666 *\.
TTalsts can be fashioned in a greaX variety of «ways/
but the plainer they are, to a certain extent, : the better
Socking for the purpose for which they are intended.
Two tuck*, each one inch wid^ placed at the, edge of
the shoulders look welL They should only be ; stitched
to a depth of three or four%taeae», or small tucks put
straight across to simulate a yoke are pretty.' One
pretty yoke is illustrated. It Is made. of straight strips
«f cheer nainsook, with a line of feather stitching down .
the middle, and these strips are alternated by strips of
the dress material. These are laid diagonally on a yoke
pattern, &nd across the bottom of .this shallow yoke' is
•. strip made of a narrow piece of the drees material
through the center, and a strip of the. nainsook- with;
the t eathersUtchlnjr on either side. The material "is
leathered Into "the lower edge of this strip. The neck
and sleeve bands' correspond to the strip which- goes
across the lower edge of the yoke. The. waists of these
working Cresses should be put into the same band as ,
Che skirt. Put the skirt into the .lower edge "and -the
waist into the upper edge. Button the .waist down the";
back and put In aleeves which come above or -below the
«lb o ws. Ms fancy dictates. If ; there "is any [ t ear\ that ;
the material may shrink some put In three three-eighths'
Inch tucks straight around the waist. Have the top one;
HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER
conie' iboutUwo ,inch»
B.rm"a«»«'* nd haveVtwo r or t two^: sidwie-half, inch space ;i
between flthe? bth"er^tuoks:>> These '- reellyj aiej decorative,^
and -if ?in \u25a0 op^i^ chain machine (can be -
: let ' out v ; to" .lengthen^the "; trals t tW&en \u25a0 n«cesßary.' : i;Many^
; w6men ; iniy prefer Vnot' to*, have V collmr on.a; working •
dress; and In sua#iTcases a ; round [or square';veit \u25a0is pret- ;
' ty. i But ; the cutting but • should : be^only a ; little ; i t \u25a0 will ;
be V^tiite [V as "^comfortable as fjt A* but 4 lower, 'and i: look i ;
ihuch^ better/; - If ; these -one piece dresses are {once Ytriecl,
( it f seems .'probable s that ; j^e|"separate •shirt-waist and ;
!' sklrtfwill^ never^bej gone' back^to.t V;."'r ;:- ; - > v-"vC:.
j- r The dresses - described 1 have' buttons ]in ti»e »back ; < but
it i»i"an* easy il matter^^tbihaye; them i fasten \u25a0inithe ! .fr6nt|.
:? if preferred, it Button ; the waist^down the front, and 5 op«n V
the skirt^bß^the ; seam /at : - the ; side the j; front;^
s the» r band 'extend 1 ; that \u25a0 = beyond' the r;
1 \u25a0 /......V-v:-..-/*- /: .- '--. : -:.'y.\,il.' '- -'•r':~. " '-iv '\u25a0"\u25a0---\u25a0J'
? It:is^f»sentiaiy;b|comfbrt|t«.»ave^e;fee^:perfectly»|
dressed i when standing T ai»d-^lWni\B.s;niuch fas^wd'meni
I must 5 % liOw^fceels-^ should^ always
• ,worn ;';- have the \u25a0 shoe a ; light- weight .one '(and laced), j
either. Uirh or low
.* •••"'-,•:
/ \ \u25a0 ." Aprons "are -, a ; necessity - : a ; good ydeal^of Jjthe .: time, -
'L and with! *7> working dreas it • is, not necessary] to ] have^
one to entirely ' cover the" drew*. Two" styles are
i. shown on ' (his page, equally i good. . A ruffle fat Jjot-j
Itoni is "; good, '< for]itlof tenVsave^iplll^S^Myth^«ron\the:;
bkirt. ;rhe ruffle catches
'\u25a0£ always ' be one or :. two pockets in these":, aprons. .If n
; Woman Swishes': to be 'dresßed s before^ dinner,] one^of ,the
;'."higH';necked*3 Jong) sleeved Jgbred^aprons* will- effectually;
•;; save' j the Tdress. s * \
\u25a0 »;;\u25a0\u25a0 . . m, . . . - :
Waists for Short Women*
-can ;be < more absurd than .{tbjtey^iMlJ
!| fS^Til ?one|c"o^tently^does^af'short^^ojat|w^^^ j
.\u25a0 I i r^l : I who, by the aid -of , straight", fronted corsets, '
ii LZmJ f bis ; succeeded J n :so • lengthening ; her ! waist
sWBKH |ijn^ [asXt^Tjg^^tfltTappar'eri tlyj just t midway jb^
IVbBHP ftweenj h;er|toesfa n d ;-her • ahou lde,ri?^ToJb."e3 j
: ffct ; of the; ernpire^^tl the 'same, timer thtsHs^S^^^S
KJBa^llbVrt^lnlo¥Sfs^h"diOT^res^.^^^^^^^
'"- balancfd rflgure™tali;andVsnm^
-: beinK '? f avpriblj^|su Ite^b^^a^|lonl^^t^^effec^3
tha t^d.^T*e|Shjojt,^istout|
.woman rather ahouKi . glvethers^lndlto|iettisirl^
proper proportion established ; between .the -upper.sand]
Wthe lower palrt r of:her:flgure:"<S^
''\u25a0 things" toibe' made' too' tight nor 'her 'smalUstature/to;
[y bet overpowered sby a large hat. . • ; .\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0...-.' ••;•- :\u25a0\u25a0:\u25a0•\u25a0 ; -
':\u25a0-.- \u25a0\u25a0•\u25a0\u25a0 Either the slender or -the plump flgure.rnay.be ef-;
P^fepUve]prpvlj^eidJ^n|^eq,uate^de^^^
taste prertdesJoy^fith^*6utline>||Taste^Wch I |terisXffi
#dMisM ii A s good\dresTmaWe?fisXpaldi'iffi
SSs^bew^ltftinedlto^^ecti^bQ^e^rs^
Bu^Hi^ervice^oflli^custoTiieiS^^
ffthinifll^
Shave dociiityj to! take! the" r adviceT6f i a' first i rate ; inodLste—
fc^^mo^i^pSyJfoßrt.l .. -. -; .
\u0084 The'j French -idea 1 is to -wear either a low or a
,high;tlsbt~nttinsr' silk; slip- under shirt "waists or
: blouses; of any^ kind. Under; slips" are pretty,' it ; is
true,* but .{they are' impossible for,; any thing except
thin or; young . figures. ; A ; little ! lace -border : on the
silk . slip • prevents . ' the * latter ; from \u25a0 looking too
'much v like the lining, and" insures a- perfect" fit.
•Any • dressmaker, caii make" them.' '. * V
The San Francis: . .si.:.-/ v wail
Seeing Rb om Notes.N ote s .
'\u25a0\u25a0--\u25a0 •'-: orfer, to" .aecsfaiiy ,»•»»"'"'•\u25a0 ""'*
AIT ire boutht <noi mads to ordrti It '•\u25a0>•"•
Sil =ary to hay« on.', own meases and .*
yli , them to th. pattern to b» used. On - »Mrt
5x3 i.U«m the w.i»t and hip lines •***£•
SESSJ clearly Indicted, and It tney »re not. It on ;
i^ure » .boat'slxTlnclies-telow the irfl«.. »\u2666,«?\u25a0*
S^a^^mtlefiaaylbe.taken off th. front, too. t
f :Then -wherr It- Is certain .that th« pattern is
corrSt th. pl«ees:«himia be? carefully laid and- pinned
'on. toVLowti* directions abotft the straight of the goods,
•nd beln« ' nr« the length la correct. .Thfl sewing Una
should be cle»rW/marked: also the number of each gore,
either with'.cbmlk or *: tracing wheel, and, a one-half or
thre«-Qtiart«r lnob seam allowed all round. The gorei
;mustb.;mo«t- carefully Pinned together, beginnlns at
the top, l keeping [ th. waist and aeam lines exactly to
"gether, also the hip i' lines. '\u25a0'\u25a0\u25a0lt this work has been care
\u25a0 fully and accurately done, no alterations will be neces
sary. It will of course be safer to try- the skirt on be
fore'stitchlnr th« aeanuu Skirt seams should be either
bounds overcast,- cr mad. French seams, according: to the
matarial. "- . '
Much success Is attained by the flacked linen frocks.
;both';tarnavy and mauve, the latter with plaited bodice
and ikirt , and relieved with fancy white belts. These,
as "well as - some pink and .white cotton dresses, were
exhibited lately, all designed for . morning wear. an«l
had tjulte'short skirts. The cotton dresses were relieved
."with! a ,lrttl« (creamy^ white softj.mbroide.ry and collar,
and'the bottom of the skirt was arranged in five three
quarterllnchituclorabove a'de.p hem about flve.inches
\u25a0wide.*eaca tuck being headed with a narrow band which
."was'eltectlvely introduced i on to tucked bodice. A
handsome linen costume* consisted ; of a black and white
striped - linen i for, the 'skirt c 'and .a ' kimono bolero of
blue linen, relieved with a black and white
; galloon. Many of the necks were slightly low, especially
in youngr firla* dresses, a wise fashion for the summer.
Alpaca. made ijqne of two gowns , in" navy blue, relieved
with] gold: braid and buttons and In^ehampagne color,
but *. tbia . fabric ris difficult *to work, and the skirts do
not hang as well as a more supple fabric.
. -It is probable* with the coming of the autumn tailor
made* we shall return to the; long coat^ sleeves. For tha
present ".season 'many;^of the prettiest waists have longer
sleeves .than were worn last -year, but the elbow and
three-quarter length sleeves still reign supreme, being
for the most, part; made in net or lace when* the Jap
anese style Is ; chosen. '.„ : -