The San Francisco call. [volume], August 11, 1907, Page 10, Image 10

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
FASHIONS FOR LITTLE PEOPLE.
yum i mi^HILDIiEN'S fashions must above all be prac-
I f^ I tlcaL Expensive materials are not necessary-
I "i^* I There may be one or two dainty little frocks
piii of fine material trimmed with dainty hand
llnsSS^! work, but for general service plain frocks
I— iimftrSJr ar e much better style and more practicable.
- The styles for small boys and girls always follow
to Borne extent those for their elders, but extremes are
modified for the little people. For little girls the cut
of the sleeve Is the main point of difference from one
season to another, as It Is with their mothers and big
flsters. Eleeves are full at the top and usually close
fitting from the elbow to the wrist.
French dressmakers . Insist upon radically different
fashions for the different ages, and even make a de
cided difference In prices for gowns Intended for young
girls. Daintiness in design and coloring Is Insisted
upon; simplicity In effect. If not In reality, and pale col
ors rather than marked shades, all are relegated to ax
treme youth. On this side of the "water the dressmakers
are following the same lead, and certainly the young
girl of the present day is most becomingly and suitably
greased. Trimmings of tulle, chiffon, or moussellne d*
sale are considered much more youthful than laces,
and ere In consequence used on girls' evening gowns.
Soft finished taffeta silks are now considered youth
ful and many a fascinating little frock of this material
is designed. Plain white is greatly In demand,- but
among the newest designs are most attractive models
In colors. . ?*J vi
Russian blouse suits for boys have proved to be
•o satisfactory that the fashion of Russian overcoats
Is coming forward for these small men. . Tha double.
triple, and sometimes quadruple collar Is becoming and
makes the fashion distinctive and new. These coats
•re made up in lightweight cloth, serge, pongee, and linen:
but the two latter materials are not to be generally
recommended, as, if an outer garment Is required, it is
best to have one that gives some warmth. A number \u25a0
of new models are shown In the coats for small girls. "I
but a» a rule the more severe designs are the favorites
with many persons. . Still, fashion decrees that . at the
present time elaborate etyles shall.be worn, and, con
sequently, the elaborate ones straightway are evolved.'*'
Lightweight cloth or serge, silk, and linen, all are "em
ployed, whije combining two, shades of color Is thought
smarter than is all one shade.
\u2666 *
Little girls' dresses in the main are so loose looking
ttat at a first glance little or no fitting would seem
to be necessary'- But it Is an art quite by Itself to give
the proper cachet to these same small garments. There
are several pretty coats Illustrated, and the same prin
ciples of putting together are followed as though the
garment were intended for a grown person, except, of
course, that there is no padding (padding stitches are
not meant by this), and' of course no bust forms. But
canvas Is used down the front and In other parts of the
Jacket to keep the garment in place, and the lining has
a plait laid down the length of the middle back, and
J« ell put In loosely both as regards the length and
\u25a0width. One pre|ty little coat Is of lightest weight chif
fon broadcloth or taffeta silk la a golden brown. The
HINTS FROM THE HOME DRESSMAKER
coat ripples gracefully under the arms and has a slight
ly bias eeam in the middle of the back. Tihere are
small bretelles over the shoulders, braided in the same
shade of brown, and a dainty rounding collar of guipure
lace, finished with a tiny frill of sijk, finishes the edge.
The coat lining is of tan In Just- the right contrasting
shade.
Another charming: coat is of cream white serge, sim
ple and straight In outline, and the neck Is finished
with , three flat circular. ' collars in satin. .^The, sleeves
consist of two circular pieces, the lower one of satin,
and the outer and shorter one of the serge.
\u25a0 *\u25a0' # \u25a0\u25a0 \u25a0 \u25a0 . ."-'
Little girls' dresses (excepting those for morning
wear) are charmingly "dainty /and. attractive. In the
latest models is to be seen the ; empire style,. which
adapts itself especially ; well to a child's figure, and
Is in marked contrast to the long wialsted models. Soft
China silks, mulls, and India lawn are the favorite '.ma
terials, for these frocks, and the trimming Is of iCluny
or baby Irish" lace in preference^to the lighter quail
ties of lace like Valenciennes or 'Mallqe*. The; broad
sash of liberty satin that is tied Just under the arms
is finished with a double rosette, and" the ends of it are
edged with lace to match, that on the dress. If a dress
less expensive than this would be Is desired,- It f would
be made of flowered muslin, substituting rows of tucks
for the lace. This same, rule applies to all children's
clothes, as for those Intended for grown people, that
the lines may " be followed, and yet in the . material!
and trimmings two-thirds of the cost cam be eliminated.
Little boys' clothes are in their " way as attractive
as little girls'. When a 3 year old boy doffs his baby
skirts he* dons a Russian J blouse suit"; TblsVcbnsists
of bloomer,. trousers, full. In the seat, and ilegs, t and;
gathered into a band below the knee, and a blouse made
on one piece long, enough to reach from * the j neck to
Just above the knee, plaited,' and .belted, at the waist.!
Sometimes the belt is of leather. "and sometimes of , the'
came materials as the suit. It 'never : fastens tightly,
but drops to a point in front in the fashion mads famil
iar a couple of -years ago by the extremists v in. Jth^
straight front, long waisted effects.-^ The.-fnaterial«- and.
minor details give room for' great variety, ; whiles the*
general . style Is the same. Dressy suits are^often/of
white plqua or" duck, trimmed with narrow bandsVand
oftentimes buttons. "But the severity of the'; style must*
be For playtime- they can -be: made r>t
gala tea, brown Holland, crash, oV khaki* cloth.: Denim:
is excellent for rough and tumble, suits. -.
< A pretty - little 'short ..waisted frock } Is shown in red
and white checked llnen, : trie skirt not gored at' all, ;
simply the straight width gathered^ into/ the; shirtwaist.'
The bottom of , the skirt is finished wltlv ai hem and : tw« i
tucks. The body, of the waist isof, sheer^- white lawn
with Insertions of nainsook embroidery set; in, running
around ; the waist and sleeves in: two, rows. The j. gfng- :
ham Is below the lowest -embroidery band on the waist,
and into. this the skirt is gathered. There are siispenfler
like pieces which cross in the back and front and: fasten
at the . waist with- buttons/: Under these, . across : the
shoulders, are square shaped bretelles ' which ; can easily
ba copied from £he illustration. '; :: • - :
HAND MADE LAGE DESIGNS.
HEVER before has there been such a demand
for hand made laces as an accessory to tha
toilette, but it Is expensive and out of reach
of many women. - It is all but indispensable
for the up to date woman who likes to show
; her' individuality" in Its selection.: -In-tha-sas
lly made princess applique the woman of limited means
has an opportunity of providing. herself with everything
requisite. * '
Although the princess lace no longer is a novelty, it
still retains its place In popular, favor. The princess •.
appllque,vas its. name implies,' means the sewing of ;
braid, such as Honlton, point lace, Cluny, and a the, vastly
improved and. favorite Bruges braid, on a foundation©*
Brussels n«t.. ',The mode of mounting costjy and delicate";
lace % sprays : 6n- this, net •is a favorite I one with lace
workers, and had its origin; In the original method of
"tacking the lace sprays on a linen foundation and then
connecting.' these sprays with various lace stitches, which
were'so fine and evenly worked j they had, when finished^
the appearance of what now Is known as Brussels net. "
Any woman .who can sew neatly, can make exquisite,
if somewhat fragile, articles in the princess applique, as .
It really Ms easy 'l of execution,: while Ata appearance Is ;
distinctive and artistic in- the extreme. -In addition to
this It quickly. Is , worked, and any. . one 'with
taste can draw designs for herself. * This Is done on a
piece of calico, cut to the pattern of whatever, article Is
; selected. ' The net then Is sewn over this '.so :• that tha
.pattern shows. clearly through. Over the net the pattern
.is followed; out by tacking on whatever braid is chosen. 1
which* afterwards is neatly sewn : In place, .and .. then
fancy stitches are worked here and there over,. the net toY
.relieve 'the • monotony . and to give "/.where' * possible ; . the"*
appearance of light and : shade. 'If preferred; / these}
; stitches can be omitted, and then a design of fancy kind '
I In braid Is shown appllqued on the net groundwork, but
the additional stitches add to the.beauty, asl well ';es to
, the^value^of : the. workr'a* they show up the pattern and 1 ;
bring -Into prominence tha' beauty of the design.. '-%
• -It is necessary' that the "net and materials used be; Of .
the best,, and even' then* the cost wlU' be' slight, andtthat>
the^Workibe kept perfectly clean when'; making. ;There7
are : two ; kinds' of heti sold for the purpose,, fine forperr
sonal use and coarser for household articles. { The braids ;
. are | made In "• widths and degrees >of fineness to
: suit ; individual taste.; "Qf: course. -for delicate designs
•fine! braid, will ...be used, while for the bolder designs, a ,
j coarser and wider! one" will' be employed. '\u25a0 The lace thread .
'matches^the^brald ln> fineness, while all can be obtained
.in white or cream -color.: i . * v: :';
; Be' careful ,when tacking the net over the pattern ' to
: have (It perfectly; sniobth;andf flat and creases.".
\u25a0 Tack; all around . the : edges and here and there; through
out, so; the net ; will"; be -kept in place over the i pattern,
I and keep the long "stitches at the back of the foundation; ?
'If the desl gn [ contains flower sprays the stems r may be \u25a0
worked In darning,: commencing ; well "up" to [. the 'flower^
pattern/ bo the ends be concealed boneath ths braid, and
\u25a0working downwards to the end ef the stem and than np
again to tht beginning. Care must ba taken to, have da
stem* gracefully wrved. The braid can be out \rhera
necessary for. the neatness of the work, and tha ends
turned In and flown down In place.
, The best method of cleaning princess ltc« is to cover
a board with linen and pin ths lace to the linen. Then
pans .-; the : board several times through 'warm, , soapy
water," afterward^ through clean, tepid* water to rinse
thoroughly. If there remain any soiled spots they can
bedabbed with a. Bpong» dipped In warm, soapy water
until the stain disappears, then again rinsed. Shake the
board gently and put up t© dry. On no account must
the lace be rubbed or squeezed. If ironing b» necessary,
place 'the' lace face downward on the Ironing board,
which has been covered with several folds of soft flannel
and a piece of cambric. Then place a piece of thin mus
lin over the lace and \u25a0 press carefully' with a hot Iron-
A simple design is • shown . for the j beginner, worked
onthe new shape cuff, 4 " arid the materials vied. It Is so
simple there will be no difficulty in drawing it with pen
and Ink ' on a plees ]l of white, tough but pliable,
paper ; cut to the '-, shape. Tack the net, carefully
over the lines as illustrated. Then removed the net and
darn In the centers with embroidery- cotton. > The < littl*
rings" can be bought or made by" winding cotton around
a small mesh and then working over this ring a close
row .of ordinary, buttonhole stitches and then sewn into
place. Be careful to sew the braid on the outside of the
curves first When the sewing is r completed press the
work on the reverse side with a hot iron.
»- '. \u25a0 *.: •",. :-\u25a0\u25a0',' •\u25a0 - -:\u25a0 - ' • 0 \u25a0 \u25a0 - ' - \u25a0
NOTES FROM THE SEWING ROOM
m am^EMSTITCHING Is a great factor throughout
H the decorative world. It is used with the ut
\ most ; impartiality on all and 'every imagin
•iiiMniimr able garment and is Invaluable to ' the cause
a33J§4 of the narrow frills that go to the formation
JjßftslMtf of some of the daintiest sleeves of the mo-
m ent.n t. .; Hemstitching \u25a0is one of v the little " hand \ touch.es
that i mean 'so' much" to latter day dressmaking, and noth
ing but 'the; real thing, suffices. Inserted; headings are
quite ~s another { story. : a shoppy . resource that immedi
ately. Infects the garment on which it is introduced with
a commonalty' there is no mistaking.
A : perfect ;= pattern should be correct In every par
ticular. The : first is the Vlght placing, of the
lines. Unless • a ." gown •be "I cut on proper lines it cannot
impart good "style to the wearer. Trimmings cannot
conceal bad cut. ; '." \u25a0
>v; The ;' Japanese sleeve may be adapted and made be
coming ::to*' those who - hesitate" to widen the figure by
The San Francisco Sunday Call.
SHAPELY WAIST LINES.;
Fs" B """""^REXCH women ara wont to b!am« sfttfilih i
and American woman for th* way fca which \u25a0
thay spoil their well mad* oerssta for wtct
•\u25a0\u25a0SEgg! of proper 'adjustment. Bafora patting tSem j
ftfcgn^ on the lace at the back should t« brought;
**\u25a0»»# out almost to its fullest extant, and t3t« fees*!
should be «o put in It can ba drawn tight at tna waist j
line by means of th« two end*, which are brought round:
the waist and tied la front. This gtmts the proper j
curve to the figure, and If ths corset* ara cot properly
adjusted It spoils th« set of any gown.
In hooking: you should always start trees tha bottacs
upward; the laces should be each flva yards long, and
two are retrulred. In putting them In from Side to eld*
they should be crossed, beginning to tha top hole, and
should be drawn pretty -tight "at the bottom. At tha
waist line. each lace Is pulled through to tha ootslda
and put Into the next hole horizontally on the same slda
of toe corset, which gives the loop by which ths ends
can be pulled tight.
Pew -women pull the laces out sufficiently to maka
them easily adjustable to the * Avars •of tha moment,
which !« not always the same. This enables It to ba
pulled down on to the hip.. and this treatment g!v«s
that .bend at the back which Is so essential, and tho
mode of tha moment. is for a well shaped waist. Tna>
mistake ts ; to tighten the riba at all. At tha waist It
has no ill effect, and before the laces are brought to tha
front they should ba crossed at the back.
the adoption of the wide and loose armhole. A fairly
full puffed but limp, short sleeve can have the irtda
armhole a«t la at;yie base of. the puff and at an agle
of \u25a0' forty-five decrees rather, than almost perpendicu
larly. HHttHSSI
A. lovely little combing . Jacket is made of albatross
of a creamy white. It Is circular In cut and the upper
part : turns back, forming • pointed revers, while places
for the arms »o go through are cut In the lower part.
There is a hem turned up on the. right side all around,
and a broad band of delicate satin ribbon Is set above
this. •'.",, \u25a0 ' \u25a0.;,:.•\u25a0--•''. *'•\u25a0 - \u25a0 <
-; Few long skirts are worn out of doors. The all
around walking- skirt is much preferred. It is : worn
Just off the ground^ and is plaited to about halt way
down in the case of soft stuffs* like Shantung,, which is
growing quite ; popular. It is dyed the most ; wonderful
shades of raspberry, aubergine, Copenhagen blue, myrtle
green* and old gold.