The San Francisco call. [volume], September 01, 1907, Page 11, Image 11

About The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
The Sunday! Call.
SCHOOL WARDROBES FOR GIRLS.
' 1 T-prr.q tag teachers are turning their, atten*
Ption at present towards their i wardrobes
for th» coming- school year v .
i^^iiil G«serally epea&ing, a student c«efls at
l«ast two serviceabia school dresses. U
I^TPlif 3 browo is becoming, & stylish dres* can b«
iaed« of brllHantln*, choosing * wina fshad*. -; •' Make
tbe «kirt plaited, turning .ta»; plalU toward* l th»;baok,
and finish ta* skirt at the bottom with a deep h eta. The
waist can b* & r«mlarr»fcirt wsi»C with a 1a 1 plain. back,
thr»«' : plaits ©a ' «aca «hotilfier. on th» jtropU only,
stitched fiava about three Inchet, and aa inch and a
half hem down th» middl» or. "the front. -A , new; con- .
c«tt Is to have buttoanole* <lhr«e-Quarter»"ef'an toch
la ilfern t tsr) covered » with ; the •: dressy material;.: used
to fasten the waist Th» usual little: turnover: collar ' :
and cufTs of shesr lawn nxtt used ' as ; *\ flntsh^ at I the
n eck and wrlsta. s worsf ov«r plain collar and r cuffs of ths
\u25a0*r«s«! xo*terial.V
\u25a0 The second; ar«s» can be made of one of thce*
X?retty plaids that ars display*^ «o attractively, this fall,
and should' be made slmplr. A small-rok»".or vest_of
silk can be used, which '-rill '; make a variation •* f roro
the: other dress.
A strictly tailored suit *; with at J least . '; on« ,yn\wt
which matches it in color" Is •/ necessity.' -,Cr§p«;d«'
chine t makes an extremely pretty suit wjJst'f or : blouse; ;
and, while . the suit either, should be made by scm«
first class tailor, ; or possibly , bought ; ready; mad«, 'the
blouse can be- madt -at home,-* Thli join Jbe*made.
elaborately or not, as one chooses. . If would b*; pretty,;
to have the front tucked; across;; th»]enare| width and
down .to yoke depth, making th« « tucks ?a»^narrow fas
possible; and leaving a I three^uarter^lnch fapace) be- v
tween. Treat the back In th» "came wayJand.lhylaibly i
hook ths; wsist ; up: the : back. f- The s lower/ edge' of the
clmvm should , be tucked to a » depth of several inches
and then gathered Into a* band. The • collar arid cuffs
would be pretty made of net, banded with" oarrow; Wai i.
strapp ; of : tafftt*i \u25a0. .', • '\u25a0 - '\u25a0s, ' ' :"'
\u25a0 \u25a0»-/•.. ... ..,:>;,; \u0084 J/ ; -: ; ,-. - :i \
It a ,mor«. elaborate; waist is desired, a moderately
coarse lacs; can -be dyedHo matehHhelblouse;raaterial;
and set ! in in long; lineal or in a; more \u25a0- elaborate^ yoke ,
c h ape, - using^the} same ;.line« \u25a0_ in ; the T sleeves * as ) on t th*^
front aijd back ;bfjtb« {waist. ".-_' . .. "-\u25a0«,-"\u25a0*""
Of afternoon I and reception : gowns and ; •\u25bc•ning .or
dancing; frocks thar#roan*;b'e as 1 many. as cone'»; purse
trtll allow." 'At i least one f of the former! and^twoj'or»:
three of the "•\u25a0 latter are essential. ', There " are \ a good'
many^ materials \ to choose; from \u25a0 In \ selecting ,' the' after
coon gown— which; mlfirht'more; consistently jbe called
a gown^ to^wear; at 'dinner tim« i and [during? the* eyeij^;
Jag," after the' school lwork : isfover | for the'-'daK*; ';^^^^
An <JniQßt endlio jetri&tsjot .tUkjg,'^^both as : to quij
HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER
lty and ; designs, ; la i shown ; -t then \u25a0 there ; are ; the ,;voll««,7
Aeollans?!' and ; other > soft ' woolens ;or \u25a0! silk I and wool . tna-~
.terials. "A* goo^;'manyTgirUland "; wonieh arb -having
their .; dresses— -trlth^ the *pbssibi»t exception v'bf J. theTre^*
ceptiori* go i »rn--oiad#s fully f our .[inches it rom^the * f100r. ..
While this<ti;decldedlyjshbrt,\lt^ isfemin^ntly^cbmfbrtr "
.. able' and' noneHbo short \u25a0 f or Ulie street Uf fbn»^ wishes; U>l
avoid 'having ; to/)^hold up >-£ : -skirt ?imiclif ©f^the |tlme^
A dear^ljttl* dress, -simplicity '(tself, is of a delicate \u25a0
gray .- voJls, ith*^ «Wrtj. made ." with |tlny"tuck's \u25a0:
around , th» , waist/? excepting; across .the ' f font-ti There*'
l* n a"; sort ;of scroll i design^ made \u25a0 : of ? narrbwlbias (strip's ?
of tiff eta;ln exactly the ;saroe shade ' asjthe^dress,' and'
on • the{*sges; towards ;the ibacic ; ; i\ frill; of f narrbwrval-'^
enciennes « lace -i» sewed. ; The effect is • wonderf ully =
pretty. \u25a0 Around t the' front of, tlie 1 [skirt sis a" bia&' ruffle'
.of; thejdress ; material ""abbut^ three inches j wider ; '\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0}-\u25a0\u25a0'
I Tho j^wadst \ is*? a^j cream Twhite I'net.^cbvered* largely .
with i insertions i and:, edgings of -Valenciennes. There
are plaited strap 4 of . the \ dres«j"mat«lrtal(goiilg^^jove^
'- thej shoiulders,'"; arid a ' pointed ' girdle \u25a0 finishes ' the waist
at thV'. bottom. , There Is; a twist vof a ;deep
taff eta,t beginning (at point \u25a0 of { th©
girdle ; In. the front; and s carried Jtb f anj^extremely |
high). waist line ihlthV back^ :jlt\is nnfshed^th©re:b*y;twoi
Uoy 'rosettes with r erids 'eight ; inches" in; length. c \u25a0 • : " ;
Inexpensive and j; attractiyeJdanoiag if foclw|tß^|bflr?
'i made! at| hoiiei eaiilr/5 If jlbne|can|^fford|tbj hav«t<me|
or, v two * Bilk rprtnces* 5 slips |jtb^,Tfea^underneath*lthes«|
: : dresses ;' a- pl_easlng"|rvariety,»ii|[ertected^Ssy^^wh^t«l
Haffeta! slip: and of Tplnk; or; yellow; * Blue)d6ftßj
not^ look- as i well ?urider.i "fhite aa^ almost^any^otherf
color, i" Muslins/"; plain"; white of; figured ß and! cojioredy|
are pretty. ..So are- the \u25a0 cits' arid? soft," light^lustrou»|
siiks/ . /•;/• •• v-- \u25a0-'"•' V?::'-i2^^^^^^^^m
' A" lovelyi danctng. 4rss"« ; can ib»;inad»'ofj white ' v tullev:
havirigf th*J»ltirt]fuU \^^arid fitraightf in^bofder©d|^witlil
\u25a0' Pink! rose¥{w;/,:tr«v^
'\u25a0 used \u25a0"this.season? by/a»fexck^lvV(«r6*i«iifc^fe^Jto|pTo^
. dues an 'appearance *\u25a0 of nbvilty. allied [ tolixcWsiVaTslm- f
piidty. . , — • ' ";;
;;- : ; If {an'l; evening^ cloak_|l^^«ece««lty^«j^flth^
sleeveless : kimono fstyies is * good, or a » klmonblityli f?
\u25a0twlth^loosslsleeVcs.", ..\u25a0•.'-- '" ri> ?£i£. -V- ' \ti&U
" ' "-A] serisibli -"jacket lor ulster; for- every/ 4aylwe»r|i«j
. tjseful. 1 awS I IV, \u25a0honM\bt; craveneted. . , ,
7- VT^krifib^ Id I **| »1 srtmpl^^rtj^t*^ |^t Jf or^ammon \
|^|^rs;prbbibiy;.wnilb«' v a^"B«oiislty^nd
htv-i, to-be .purchased : th«r« *«~a I laf ge variety .to
ehbo««-from. - '" .'./._ 2
Good, stout v.w^l^gjrtoiwjj^
pers \ t or \u25a0*. wear ! in y oh«'« room. - and|pumpiT^|iWi»ptrfl
Aigood flannel'/wrapper must notjbe^torifbtten, ana*
it \ should*; be^rnadeT^BlmplyK.- 1' r -ei?®:T!*? TT 7 1 i*? -* il ** ea -^ *'J
:Ti-oald be pretty icut v with- a bias : seam . down elm id-;
ialelbf;theVback;Vandf perfectly;: plain \ fronts."^ Have It
\ entirely ;. bound ? with • satin - ribbon * the | •xaot >" shade ? of . \u25a0
the 'eiderdown.'^-'" 1 '; \u25a0?£:\u25a0,*;; '\ ..•;"' \u25a0\u25a0".'" "..^: ; \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0;\u25a0. •• '\u25a0'.-\u25a0
V \u25a0 ;: t -.;v-'"'!" :^i' r ,-;::,«;;,;#_: ; " ;;.;\u25a0 -..-.•..;\u25a0. \u25a0\u25a0: $4 ..jv^v-,
Two/cambHcvflre^lnjr^acQuea/anaioneioflflannelj
"will I be if otind iisef ul.^*An 5 uhuiually^attfaetl ye |littl»|
\u25a0' SacQui iwlasTmadeTof f *l^uej and^'^ bl !? (striped! flanneLl
!<Thero"'was ;a v middle: ba^]seamf ft^|bote'jthe^b^|aj^dj
?' front f werej perf ectlyjplainii the j^anisTunder|the jarma J
> arid 1 the Smiddle \back lseasnf curving sJus5 Just | erioughjiat^
cwalstc walst \ Hnesto|flt|thol figure slightly. V h ThVf fronts;
had \u25a0 an v inch* wide hem -and* buttoned^wMfc|pearl|but-^
lons. ..There, Was ft small, round, turnover collar. j The
; sleeves \u25a0w^'^allfasjr^^
5 piece -*bne»,jand |came \ tb| th~e | wHstsJand ? r*Tals?^sh^l"r *T a ls?^ sh^ l "
r ;- with 1 a turn back cuff. On the ; left I side of; the - front,
'a \u25a0 little below the : waist Uneiv^ajifi^naanf pocket j
stitched" on" to? the '\u25a0* outside of the sacQue. '". : The j bbttbm|
of ' the the edges ;of the ./cuffs,; and-the collar
t '.were|finlshed iwltlTf *t/small|scalloped>edgV£t^
*buttonhollnlir^f--tj&e^
,the«flaririel.v \u25a0-\u25a0 .\u25a0\u25a0.'•>...-. -.\u25a0\u25a0:\u25a0..\u25a0;.- \u0084/\u25a0\u25a0-. ./ \u25a0-.;.':\u25a0• ,- : \u25a0.' \u25a0 .\u25a0..\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0
* _, In .underwear, ;four:Buitssrlghti straight
>?shouldjbeyp7o^lded;f^
ib^provlded^Hdfao^xcellent¥^e^i]^4eottpn{|m«r^J
i?ejwlxed, l^iKd?rdeHghtfuH^
;isb©agh'ofor3*^6J>.^^
Kof Jstbcfengsl and Itw^doieiT|jS'a«jJkirchiefsJ^S ! .llfUi"6S
|*tindJrTOa££sho^ild|^^^
Ibtaatloniletterl'tape^
|fjr|a|^ickel^^
|,y^n\markingTdone)JnJ_lnk^^^HjpS^^S3|^P^3
-'-•••' '.Then 5 : there", are * gloves, X collars, ; ribbons,^ and
J^bijthoukhfof. 1 < # • x
The white * lingerie that every J girl gloves j
|w#rji|nearly,| f or^K<>t*^®'^^*^^^*sl^M*l» t lS<'1 nl|n I|
|P*rfttiy«|l^lUt]^»p«nt'i^^?d|n^^m^Mftt^£^i^
ito^SnKyitbl to^^Althbughl^BfsniS^o^cmbro Ideryj
St^4^p,T^«n|th'ei ;| is| beautfXul^a^y
j|lbinel|rf
Il»v«|mHe^^ Is|j£tt|
i"wdless|variety|bf Jwaysjlorltr Immlrig, v f fotnl thel »tapl« 1
to. the tnostelaborate. - * - -'/;,;
position]! sh^ejh^d^y^tj^^f a^asTgeneral | prlnS
..ciplts go.-'tii^ftijovo- aujcffestlons "would" apply 19 u«r
TO FIT A WAIST CORRECTLY.
'j^JJJJ^Plthe/l women who do; much of their own
I •^\u25a01^ I * '-Fl?*F 1 ?* *°™ e T hints , about < fitting i walstsTmay
|,'-;J[:,;i,| helpful.' : V Remember one : thing-~and c
RJK9BI never is an, exception to this - rule— lri nt-
.tlnfi any garment,ralwaTs;,put2it;on?.risht
*^™^^* side out, as you are : gbdngJtoTweaft iti^Boms
jsage^hasj said; there iis ; not; a huriianlbelßg lwhbse^twb
I sides] or el exactly | alikis^^^Andl if CaTperson * knows ; how
to I put| a /yaasted ' garment^bn" I to is
an easy : ;/one. . Sluchp Judgment Tarid TcbmmbnTsezwie • are
; neceseary ll in -" the^riiasing , of v clothes,'. ] for > the; "reason
that |n6t'two» people are!;exactly alike" In' figure any
more* than \in J feature.^ v, You may make rules, "and ' must
do| sq ;|£orjgenaral \ guJ^nceVfaft/r^thatlcomriioh 'sense'
.^unidfgood \ \u25a0judgment \ must T'cbme l intoj*pla^g
X;f.%Th;e ) first' essential,: after* the! raeasurbst/ on 'a pat
itern i have been verified Iwlth those : o£ the peraon ; for
jlincsjtaf eitnarked .cairVfully. \u25a0 It ? - is an" excellent , plan
tbiVunJa} fine ;bas ting] thread fonTall i the : pieceartb mark
i the •' waist ;; HneT^ It ? Ist the fpoint k wherg ,' > the' ; curves Tare
th'e]greatest,;andUt is of ths 'flrsVimpbrtarica'! that; they
:\b'eliaarked?ciearly. r .- ; i'4T;^'i: \u25a0•\u25a0 r?:-l?:l'/:r ?:-l?:l'/: r /~ r '-'.-'',~.ix":-' :-:-." r '" : ~ "\u25a0 \
fall < ; 'seam; lines' are;' marked \u25a0'distinctly.'. ./.The',
seamsishould all be basted together up and down
I trOto |th^e.t waist ?lln?v arid ; w hen \ put ; toge the? the . wala t :
;linejshbuldj^be ;an " uninterrupted .one, > als^ the ; arm- ;
|tioie^anjjneckt^-.The^ waist rnuatibjeypiit^oji; right isidej
fall|the^eamsT towards ; j|h"e front ", excepting ; the : ;darts~
\u25a0 thlenjMthey will-not *\u25a0 draw. If -.there .'those
|se¥m^mustlbeTtO'^irdiTthe \u25a0 b^ c^- i f^mSBSWBPBBBH
B§Th«w| isJroorSp^l^i^f |a| toUo^lo^fthqlf root j^gj
lthetshoulder,tand[ln;orderjtojlnsu^ja^erj
"always -see ito \u25a0 it -'that \u25a0 the" shoulder,* seam on 'I th« > tback \u25a0
.measures about half '- Inch 'I larger j thaiif itt does Jb^^
|th^|fronj > t. 'Vi\Theny>'ln~;_basUn^h^ldfto^'front.'towaVds ;
; you, pin the. front . arid ; backrtogether at tha neck ' and
arinhole 1 Ilri^esT|then,lhblcilngr|the; seam|oye^youf ; finger, :
Hitretcli^thqlfrgntfiilfgh^^t^
|back7fandJbjute|rarafuß^!^^ti^|iieain|^
'Jng'lolliS^^^ouJ^b^^^smaSg^^^fetc^w^lES
s t^^^^^^^^l* I T?<>^^^ a J^^M|they|tb^often I
' af t.f npfaecuratel flttingl^rib^dbne^TJiisfttretchirigl.
|o^to'*Tf«»t|onf tblthe | back* hlsldi|toe|frontlcnit3»9llt|
jl»fnot>iffected^by2theI t hbUowfab^i|r^erredlto,ts^^ s
\u25a0 the^f esult '$ ti ? : af perfect 5 fitting "i \u25a0«^^nBHpHBBOH
fg6ther4l^ctlyllrilth^traced|Unes^(for|the |"middlel c Jof 1
be), a and . the V
|wa^rt|towNS«^>^tbgeth«^hirel the ri«ck' line 'and
middle line^maet, . then pin the rest of the length,;.ex
actly ion I the -traced juries. Now, j look the : waist over
carefully: before ' making* \u25a0 any /alterations, .and rua \u25a0 your,
hands \u25a0: over it * to* help \u25a0it '"to , lie smoothly. » Any tlgfit
ness ;or looseness ;a t ; the \u25a0 top •\u25a0 can i never -be . altered \u25a0 at .
the bottom and vice versa. .The- dWlculty; must always
be": remedied^ in"; the^spot: where; it lies. elfc If It polls and
is /'tights at ( T the shoulderi 'they^mast be ripped! open
and* pinned Tvp 'properly /while* the waist Is on. Always
in thts case, stand at the' slde'of a person, where both]
the • front Jarftl \u25a0 back; can I . be T : «e*n clearly," then begin^to
pin ,the 'Shbulderi tbgether at v the "middled then toward
each i end. : [ .
v If ; any of '\u25a0. the • other seams \ need to-be taken up or
let out it Is a. wise; precaudon'to^ pin the; middle. .back,
and front seams *; fast -to the undergarments. : so they
will stay where they" belong. Sometimes a % seam needj
to ba taken r up^or let out more on one side than (the
others * If .' this ;be", the'Tca'se;; rip "the ; seam ; open, ; pin 'It
together f again ! 'as ] it . s aoold gOb-'flrs^at ; the^- .waist; line/
[then i upland \u25a0 down from that ! point— always"* being care-"
ful ; to s . preserve ' a good . Hn*.
There -must -be.? plenty of . room allowed across th*
chest arid; bust- ; Nothing is more fatal to good re-r
suits thariUp f see fa waist ; drawn too, tight 'there.* If
an"y 'alteration "is needed i!n" t the position of . the waist
line,*'; put I pins } In \ to 'indicate the changes.
\: vlf - thY neck^-^of I then .waist*- presses ; in -front and feels
drawn " downila 1 t^e 'back; It 'ia because it la cut. too low.
in ; the back. And nothing: will \be 'of \u25a0 any , avail except
to-plece'lttup^intheiback/ .The neck "line should as
high sr as t posslble.*The\lower; Itrls icut [th» : larger ;the
bottom lofI of /th'eicollar^has; to ;bv ; and;the'VwMtalt:!»ithat_
the neck ] looks '\u25a0. thick farid * iarf e. \\Wben : a waist 1 driw»
be^e^ibie shro^
"theVshonlder tseamT on 'the ;ba^;only:neeiis ;letttag;oit
arid-the neck'Une possibly la; a' Uttle" too hljth.
'~l The Iwhlte lingerie waist ' so popular;, now " wtll be
.worn? all t the Vy«arJ round and a slight touch I of ; color
does [not (coma ' amiss \ upon \u25a0 It , arid - Introduces ; a rnota of
novelty. <A* whltejlawa \u25a0 shirt =, wahrt ; embroidered b» pink
Is", worn \ overf a"; rose' plnk 7 slDt ; slip,' arid at the elbows
\u25a0there flsj a (ruffle ;"of i pale V rose ! pip* 1 .lace;-, to. acoentaate'
; the / background j color.*: More of the ; lace I. l* nsed = upoa
the; yoke, afid therVl» a' tttfla of it la the neck baail.
;Another^.walst -\u25a0] Is % of , : white : ; bathita k '";"plato :;aad "gaott?,
trimmed" round the annkoles with a band of waahaSle
; blue ~V esßbroldery. J arid f glven^a little s e.mb"roidary "\u25a0 to*
\u25a0 match \u25a0 in '- the ;' graadf •thflr'a. • rafflw that \u25a0 eaolrcle ; CSi
valata- " "' "\u25a0\u25a0-';,./. ' ; "