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The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, October 20, 1907, Image 10

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1907-10-20/ed-1/seq-10/

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a woman cannot make her clothes,* $250
t|^*y or $300 a year for an allowance would
I II mean, if she wished to be well and Bmart-
I JjL ly gowned, altogether too limited an
aßM&Saegnej amount. But if she Is rlever with her
d&TC%sfa needle, is an acute observer, and good
«Se\foS^ shopper, it vrould mean a considerable al
lowance. There are hundreds of women
who spend less than $100 a year on clothes; also hun
dreds who spend $5,000 and more; but $SOO in the hands
of a clever woman will permit of her having some few
luxuries in addition to the more necessary Items.
Infinite calculation and forethought will be neces
sary, however, to attain the best results/ especially
where the styles change so often, and there are so
zn&sy materials and designs to choose from. A few
general rules might be laid down, such as avoiding the
extreme In anything, or nearing something whlcn is only
a t&ncr of the moment, paying particular attention to
the small things, cuch as gloves, handkerchiefs, shoes,
stockings, and choosing sme's gowns and outdoor wraps
carefully, asd electing to have only a few at a time,
and having these really good. It Is not a bad plan to
choose eosne color which Is especially becoming and
then keep to that la a general *way. Things that match
look so well together, and. then, too, one's wardrobe can
often be replenished vrith less expense. This refers
more especially to the out of doors clothes.
Tblngs sever do give out all at once, and If a new
emit Is a necessity Quite likely the petticoat is in good
order, and the hat -with a small outlay will present a
2xew appearance. Xf one tries to plan, even in a general
way. for the entire year's wardrobe, *t is wise to pro-
Tide for two seasons at a time, autumn and winter go
ing together and spring and summer. Often the fall
emit will be found trarm enough on mild winter days,
although it should cot do duty then unless the heavier
en« is uncomfortable, and then It will be in readiness ,
for the early spring days, and can even do duty on the
occasional cool days In summer. For the fall and win
ter it Is really economy to buy the best materials one
can afford. Cheap woolens are never satisfactory, while
ia summer much lets expensive, and even really cheap
materials make up satisfactorily and give one good
•sough service.
The first garment to need attention is the winter
cult. If it Is decided to make this a little fancy it will
do double duty, as it will be pretty for calling, etc., as
•well as do for more general street wear. Broadcloth
is always good, but Is not an easy material to handle.
A good quality may be found for (2 a yard, and the
style suggested here will take between five and six
yards. Unusual care has to be taken in cutting broad
cloth. as there Is not only a "right and wrong" but an
** up and down ** as well. The nap must run down on
all the pieces. Unless one Is skilled In making jackets
It would be xnuch better to find some tailor who would
not object to using your material and have him make
It. There are many good tailors who do this, and the
making would cost between $12 and $15. The coat
should be satin lined, an excellent quality being $1.25
a yard, and It would require four yards. The trimming
would not be znuah, a pretty braid or velvet inset, and ]
decorated with small buttons.
The skirt could be made by oneself at home. 'It is
aa exceedingly pretty box plaited skirt, and should clear
the ground welL ThLi will not be a x cheap suit, but will
6.0 duty several seasons and always look exceedingly
\u25a0welL If a drop petticoat does not have to be bought
the entire cost will not be over $36. This price, -with a
dress allowance of $300 a year. Is moderate.
If women would only remember never to keep on a '
tailor suit afteT they cet home, but instead take it off,
brash, and shake thoroughly, and hang It up perfectly
it would be an Immense saving on their, clothes. A
silk watet is always pretty with a stilt for street wear,.
acd it can be made up with absolutely.no .trimming.
An excellent quality can be bought for 85 cents a. yard,
and five yards will be an ample pattern. It will wear
fcetter and be warmer If a yoke and sleeve linings are
put | In; and there are doubtless pieces of silesia or .
X>ercallne in the house sufficient for this, bo with a
couple of spools of silk to do the sewing wjth, it will
bring «2ie cost to $4.50. An e^ctra waist to ""wear with
this salt, suitable for theater or restaurant wear, will
be lovely, made of pink chiffon, embroidered in dots. A
full width wjll be necessary for the front of the waist
aad the tucks should be laid before the material is cut
oS, Co as to be sure and get a long enough length.
After this is arranged on the lining, cut out a paper
patttra of the yoke and make ft of Valenciennes lacs,
and attach, motifs ;bf Vealse lace'^rith ela.borfltc
lace stitches of pink silk.". The collar Is of T»lpa|
ciennes : lace, with lace stitches between, _ and v'e,
ruffle made of Val, lace edge the yoke;
the yoke being shallow across tho back, and solnt
straight across. the shoulders. Or the^waisti coiilt
have the same material used, but -the other;; dot
sign copied. The shlrrings or puffings of the chlf
fon. are in lengthwise groups at ; front, ' slde«, ; and
middle back, where * the .waist fastens; the ; fullness
1* In the soft crosswise 'lines. 7 ,.- The insertion': is~;Of
pure white Cluny lace, outlined by tiny j frills of
point d'esprit lace. Pink velvet ribbon* liee 'across
the tucked yoke, caught In double' loops through
the lac* at the sides. Either 'one of these waists
would be expensive to buy ready made, or to have
made, but the materials need not •; cost over* 110,
and If there Is some ' nice lace in the house ! whiah
can be used, so much. the better.
Allowing out of the $300 about $75 for hats,
shoes, cloves, and handkerchiefs, ought} to keep
one In pretty good order and up to date. And, in
deed, In Its really ought to be Included 'all'?: the
small items . possibles-ribbons, belts, etc : 'Plan
always not to have to buy two tailor' madei '~V
cults In the same . year. .Buy a light : weight
one one year," and a winter one the follow
ing year, and that will leave *.iyritolmixgln\
for other thing*. Speaking «f hats, lt\ 1* bet
ter to buy good trimmings always for' they
can 'be used one season, then put away and
brought out some future timo and do duty
If one goes out much' some - sort of an
evening cloak is almost a necessity, A pretty
model is shown here,' made of broadcloth. '•'.. 'lnere-w,
a pretty shaped • yoke part, back and / front, and " at- ;
tached to it is a sort of circular skirt.,. There is a
bias seam under ! the arm ..wnich Is a somewhat \unusu-.
al feature, but good looking. . Any style desired can be
used as trimming; but the' way the cloak 'shown is
finished is both stylish" and easy to accomplish. Lined
with satin and made of: a $2 broadcloth.; thiagar-;
ment ought not to coat the home sewer over $25.
* A practical evening gowni \u25a0which would al»o;b$
pretty for a dinner dress, is mad* of blacky net
over white silk. The skirt ruffles sxa edged \ with
narrow black velvet ribbon,' and the ' girdle* Is ! Of
velvet. Good materials for this should come with
in $60.- -' .' - \u25a0"\u25a0 v/ .>'\ .
What woman doe* not like a dainty wrapper
or negligee? A lovely one can be made of "a - riohi
red cashmere or other soft woolen material,'- the
lines straight ,' and unbroken from the "shoulder,
and to make It somewhat dre*sy the material can
be turned back down each front and fastened, with
buttons from shoulder* to the waist (the front*
thus . forming straight revers), then a front | and
turnover collar and cuffs are set in of white lawn.
This lawn part can be made detachable by being
attached to skeletoft lawn back and email sleeves.
When It is ready to be put with the cashmere
the sleeves are simply slipped into the \u25a0 cashmere
dress, and the lawn collar tacked to the gown 'in
the middle of the back. This I* one of tho dain
tiest possible garments of the kind and the ma
terials should not cost over $10. A high necked
night dress or plain wrapper pattern -should be
enough of a guide In cuttiag. Fifty ; dollars set
aside for materials for summer dresses, Including
a couple of pretty dancing frocks and a . summer
silk, will, if care Is taken, make a good sho/wlng. c
. Set aside $25 for materials for underwear and
If- fond of fine, dainty garments watch ' the rem
nant counters. There are nearly always -lengths
long enough for chemises, corset covers, drawers,
and sacques, and for more serviceable garments
buy the cotton cloth or 'cambric, by '• the. b01t... Sev
eral times a year there are fine sales of embroid
eries and laces and a great saving can be made
by taking advantage of these same sales. Ir possible
pick these thing* up when you run across V them.
There is hardly ever a time when it Is not pleas
ant to have some white work on hand, and before
one realize* it a good deal has been accomplished
If the materials are ready at hand. '-r^^T-';
In tills estimate the $250 mark has been passed
by $10, and so there is still a margin of 540 for
the possessor of a $800 yearly' clothes allowance.
It can readily be* seen what aa Immense advantags
a woman who "makes : her own clothes has .over the
woman who has to depend on others for a great part
of the ; cost can ctfme In having 4 thing made. And
there are few womeflky who ;kriow to) sew welllwtJO
are not {fascinated by' it, and those who do not like to
Bewiaregenerally.thos^ who fdo" not know how. It
would ' be money .well spent then,' to • take lessons and
learn - ; bow. : "•' -\ " ; ;' \u25a0..\u25a0 '-' :-'.''\u25a0.
.',-- Camel i» one of the colors \u25a0; for. the fall season, a
tawny yellow shade that demands some decided tint
in addition to It to, intensify its effect. With > a dress
of camel colored cloth seen recently" was . worn a
striped '\u25a0 purple - and : camel coate e ' trimmed with gold
tassels; arid > thej effect: was "exceedingly good.", Violet
also is taking complete possession of 'the; 'feminine
: heart Some nice white lace waists are ' those trimmed
with narrow bretelles of violet satin crossed In front
and § fixed j; in ' place ;. by ' handsome amethyst buttons.
Others"; have I revera of violet ' velvet .and others a
trellis \u25a0wor^c of pansy velvet ribbon -punctuated with
\u25a0mall enamel buttons of a contrasting color.
The embroideries of ; the present day are a great
feature! As a • newer idea " than^ the '\ bands of stitch
ing going round . the skirt large designs decorate the
center "of .the i back : aria front. These are not al
ways;: repeated , on .the waist; In faot. the present
fashions ; tend , to - show a complete* diversity between
the ,-waist^rid skirt, vas is seen in the entirely con
trasting coat \u25a0 of ; the ; moment. In other ' cases " tbe^eoat
or_, waist '\u25a0 is embroidered, arid not the skirt, or the
uridejVaJsV^.sleeves.. and .collar elaborately decorated
under a plain* gown. .. '\ " 1
'-*' ,In. chiffon and cr«pe de chine.' and similar ma
terials smoke gray and lead ' color- are favored. Dif
ferent tones # \>f' yellow, like ; sulphur and ripe corn,
receive - some measure of approval. Colors become
dally more" subtle.and; more difficult* to describe. Ef
fects found in i nature and- brought 'about by pecul
iarc oondltions "of , ; light— effects ; which one may ~ ses
once arid* never- again— are reproduced by dyes with
riiafvilo'us;; fidelity. There -is nothing far fetched
about * r the" namea given, therefore," to certain colors.
fCNavy s blue serge never ' Will go out. of fashion un
not seem to be an easy matter .for
|SjT^^| every woman to put a sleeve into an arm-
I^fl Jj I hole correctly and easily, and these fol
|^[lfJlllhowlng suggestions should prove helpful:
bnrißfenastS Make a crease or fold on the 'front of
liS^KSIDI tne *' alst straight down from the edge
|2aßc>tr S&J of the shoulder at the armhole point, then
!j;?|?Ts^T^T^ ™ a *. e another .crease /or y f01d :..; from' the
under ''"arm' «eam Vat-the. arrahole 'point straight .towards
/' the of the front. . From > the point /where these
'two "creases/ or foMs, intersect make a diagonal line
to the 'afmholei j Where ;. this line -. touches the armhola
is the point "where the -. Inside or front seam of sleeve
should be > pinned. ; VAfter this is \ pinned'- measure from
«th*e undera rm seam ot^thejwalst j up ; towards J the front
* f our and t one-half ; inches and pin] the 'sleeve " to; the' afm
'hble' at : this f point siso.7. Now i measure "> from the under
arm sealrn., of ;; the waist i ; up : towards the back -three
arid one-half Inches^' end ; plri the sleeve tothe armhole at
The Sunday Call.
less something is invented to take its place. For
fall wear. It is always good braided wtth black, as
ft' is so frequently this year, and when faced with
imperial *pi»rple with more than a dash of navy in
Its composition arid alao heavily braided is a useful
possession, accompanied by a dull purple hat lined
with blade and trin»med with a tumbling mass of
black code's * feathers.
A useful and good looking suit of canvas— »ln ap
pearance like a rather thick make of alpaca without
the sheen on it. and suitable for cooler weather and
harder wear — Is of a charming shade of dark cream
color. This Is braided in groups of many straight
lines with; a trellis design dividing them, with nar
row tubular braid the soft gray color of maroon
glac*, and has carved wooden buttons of exactly tho
same shade.
Hats made of material are the fashion this falL
Felt will not recover its downfall of last season, but
will remain in seclusion to a great extent. Instead
there will be much of taffeta millinery, veiled with,
spotted net. and chiffon treated in the same manner.
Flowers continue their popularity.
' • *
The kilted flounce at the hem of the skirt ts s«en
now and then. This fashion was quite popular some
years ago. It can look quite well and is a> distinct
change from the plain hem. It Is worn' at, the foot
•f some plain skirts or to edge both the upper dra
peries as well as j the noder, for many double skirts
or* likely to be seen.
... _...: «• ;/• , ' -
V«lvet ribbon as a garniture Is reappearing fa rail
lln#ry. .It" is «nceessful \u25a0, mingled with. Illusion net.
Panne Is . revived , for turban crowns.' Fancy feathers.
lace, and tulle are mcd alone or mangled with flow
er* and 'grasses. Brims axe lined wtth colored or
black silk.
..There seems to be bo doubt long sleeves win en
tirely replace short ones this winter. They also will
be narrow, tight. In fact, end In some cases be cut fun
nel' shaped over the hands and finished with frills.
thirpoiat also. Holding the waist towards you, baste
the sleeve - ; In ' from the four and one-half Inch point
around to" th« - tore* aod ' one-half Inch point. Then
gather the top part of the alter* between these points
In the opposite direction and baste the gathered part
In, holding the" sleeve towards yon this time so as to
arrange the fullness evenly. This Is an absolutely
correct way to baste a sleeve into an armhole, and It
will never have to be altered If done accurately.
a sleeve is put In right and the arm is hang-
Ing down, the Inside sleeve seam will be on a line with
the middle of the thumb. If the sleeve has been put
together right thei hand and arm can be turned so that
the palm Is: uppermost and the sleeve will be station
aryr-rthat • Is, the seam will not follow the hand, but
instead will be opposite the middle of the palm. ThJJa
is a good test for a . perfectly - put together '* sleev^
and the seam. of this sleeve will never twist. ./

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